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A.'N    ILLUSTEATED    HISTOET 


OF 


THE  GREAT   REPUBLIC: 

BEING  A  FULL  AND  COMPLETE   HISTOKY  OF  THE 

AMERICAN    UNION, 

FROM  ITS 

EARLIEST  SETTLEMENT  DOWN  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME; 

COMPRISING^    ITS 

EARLY     DISCOVERIES,    WARS     WITH     THE     FRENCH     AND     INDIANS,     THE     AMERICAN 

REVOLUTION,  ;  DECLARATION     OF     INDEPENDENCE,    HISTORY     OF 

PRESIDENTS  AND  VICE-PRESIDENTS,  OUR  ARMY  AND  NAVY, 

AND  EACH  BRANCH  OF  OUR  GOVERNMENT  SEPARATELY  DEFINED. 

INCLUDING  ALSO 

COMPLETE  AND  ACCURATE  DESCRIPTIONS 

OF    THE     CLIMATE,   SOIL,    PRODUCTIONS,    WEALTH,    AGRICULTURE,    COMMERCE,    MANU- 
FACTURES,  LAWS,  EDUCATIONAL    FACILITIES,   AND    MINERAL    RESOURCES 

OF   EACH    STATE   AND   TERRITORY. 

TOGETHER     WITH    AN    INTERESTING      HISTORY     AND     DESCRIPTION     OF     THE     CITIES, 

TOWNS,  AND  VILLAGES;    THEIR    LOCATION,  WEALTH,  PROGRESS, 

ADVANTAGES,  AND    PROBABLE   GROWTH. 

THK  WHOLE   FORMING  A 

COMPLETE  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  OUR  WHOLE   COUNTRY. 
BY  JAS.  D.  M'CABE,  JB., 

AUTHOR    07  "  GREAT  FORTUNES,"  "  PLANTING  THE  WILDERNESS,"  "  PAWS  BT  SUN-LIGHT  AND  GAS-LIGHT,"  ETC. 
EMBELLISHED  AND  ILLUSTRATED  BY 

OVER    TWO     HUNDRED     ELEGANT     ENGRAVINGS. 

TAKEN  FROM  NATURE,  THEY  PRESENT  A  COMPLETE  PANORAMA  OS  OUR  GREAT  COUNTRY. 


SOLD    CXBTX/ST    BY 


PHILADELPHIA: 

WILLIAM    B.    EVANS    &    CO. 

CHICAGO,  ILL.:     RICHARD    S.    PEALE    &    CO. 

SAN   FRANCISCO,  CAL:    A.   L.   BANCROFT   &   CO. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  187*,  by 

WILLIAM  B.  EVANS, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


£ 


PREFACE. 


THAT  which  is  most  worthy  of  a  man's  study  and  observation 
is  his  own  country,  yet  but  few  of  the  great  mass  of  Amer- 
icans are  well  informed  as  to  the  land  of  their  birth.  There 
is  a  vague  idea  in  the  minds  of  all  that  the  Union  is  a  "great 
country"  with  regard  to  size  as  well  as  in  other  respects,  but  they 
have  but  a  faint  conception  of  the  immenseness  of  the  Republic.  A 
few  years  ago,  an  English  traveller,  who  had  been  impressed 
with  the  magnificent  extent  of  our  country  by  the  fatigues  of  a 
stage  coach  journey  across  the  Plains,  wrote  as  follows  concerning 
it,  and  his  statement  seemed  to  take  even  our  own  people  by 
surprise.  He  said : 

"Yes,  the  Republic  is  a  big  country.  In  England  we  have  no 
lines  of  sufficient  length,  no  areas  of  sufficient  width,  to  convey  a  just 
idea  of  its  size.  The  State  of  Oregon  is  bigger  than  England; 
California  is  about  the  size  of  Spain ;  Texas  would  be  larger 
than  France,  if  France  had  won  the  frontier  of  the  German 
Rhine.  If  the  United  States  were  parted  into  equal  lots,  they 
would  make  fifty-two  kingdoms  as  large  as  England,  fourteen 
empires  as  large  as  France.  Even  the  grander  figure  of  Europe 
fails  us  when  we  come  to  measure  in  its  lines  such  amplitudes 
as  those  of  the  United  States.  To  wit :  from  Eastport  to  Brownsville 
is  farther  than  from  London  to  Tuat,  in  the  Great  Sahara;  from 
Washington  to  Astoria  is  farther  than  from  Brussels  to  Kars ;  from 
New  York  to  San  Francisco  is  farther  than  from  Paris  to  Bagdad. 
Such  measures  seem  to  carry  us  away  from  the  sphere  of  fact  into  the 
realms  of  magic  and  romance. 


4  PREFACE. 

"Again,  take  the  length  of  rivers  as  a  measurement  of  size.  A 
steamboat  can  go  ninety  miles  up  the  Thames,  two  hundred  miles  up 
the  Seiue;  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  the  Rhine.  In  America, 
the  Thames  would  be  a  creek,  the  Seine  a  brook,  the  Rhine  a  local 
stream,  soon  lost  in  a  mightier  flood.  The  Mississippi  is  five  times 
longer  than  the  Rhine;  the  Missouri  is  three  times  longer  than 
the  Danube;  the  Columbia  is  four  times  longer  than  the  Scheldt. 
From  the  sea  to  Fort  Snelling,  the  Missouri  is  plowed  by  steamers 
a  distance  of  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  thirty-one  miles ;  yet 
she  is  but  the  second  river  in  the  United  States. 

"  Glancing  at  a  map  of  America,  we  see  to  the  north  a  group  of 
lakes.  Now  our  English  notion  of  a  lake  is  likely  to  have  been 
derived  from  Coniston,  Killarney,  Lomond,  Leman,  and  Garda.  But 
these  sheets  of  water  give  us  no  true  hint  of  what  Huron  and  Superior 
are  like,  scarcely  indeed  of  what  Erie  and  Ontario  are  like.  Coniston, 
Killarney,  Lomond,  Leman,  and  Garda,  put  together  would  not  cover 
a  tenth  part  of  the  surface  occupied  by  the  smallest  of  the  five  Amer- 
ican lakes.  All  the  waters  lying  in  Swiss,  Italian,  English,  Irish, 
Scotch,  and  German  lakes  might  be  poured  into  Michigan  without 
making  a  perceptible  addition  to  its  flood.  Yorkshire  might  be  sunk 
out  of  sight  in  Erie ;  Ontario  drowns  as  much  land  as  would  make 
two  duchies  equal  in  area  to  Schleswig  and  Holstein.  Denmark 
proper  could  be  washed  by  the  waves  of  Huron.  Many  of  the  minor 
lakes  in  America  would  be  counted  as  inland  seas  elsewhere ;  to-wit : 
Salt  Lake,  in  Utah,  has  a  surface  of  two  thousand  square  miles;  while 
that  of  Geneva  has  only  three  hundred  and  thirty ;  that  of  Como  only 
ninety ;  that  of  Killarney  only  eight.  A  kingdom  like  Saxony,  a 
principality  like  Parma,  a  duchy  like  Coburg,  if  thrown  in  one  heap 
into  Lake  Superior,  might  add  an  island  to  its  beauty,  but  would  be 
no  more  conspicuous  in  its  vast  expanse  than  one  of  those  pretty  grec  a 
islets  which  adorn  Loch  Lomond. 

"  Mountain  masses  are  not  considered  by  some  as  the  strongest  parts 
of  American  scenery ;  yet  you  find  masses  in  this  country  which  defy 
all  measurement  by  such  puny  chains  as  the  Pyrenees,  the  Apennines, 
and  the  Savoy  Alps,  The  Alleghanies,  ranging  in  height  between 


PREFACE.  5 

Helvellyn  and  Pilatus,  run  through  a  district  equal  in  extent  to  the 
country  lying  between  Ostend  and  Jaroslaw.  The  Wahsatch  chain, 
though  the  name  is  hardly  known  in  Europe,  has  a  larger  bulk  and 
grandeur  than  the  Julian  Alps.  The  Sierra  Madre,  commonly  called 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  ranging  in  stature  from  a  little  below  Snowclon 
to  a  trifle  above  Mont  Blanc,  extend  from  Mexico,  through  the 
.Republic,  into  British  America,  a  distance  almost  equal  to  that 
dividing  London  from  Delhi/' 

Such  are  the  territorial  dimensions  of  our  country,  as  measured  by 
a  foreigner,  and  that  they  are  in  no  way  exaggerated  will  be  found  by 
all  who  study  the  subject.  But  the  greatness  and  interest  of  the 
Republic  do  not  consist  in  its  vast  size.  We  have  within  our  limits 
nearly  every  variety  of  climate  known  to  man,  and  a  soil  capable  of 
producing  almost  every  product  of  the  earth,  from  the  stunted  herbage 
of  the  frozen  regions  to  the  luxuriant  fruits  of  the  tropics.  The 
ground  is  rich  in  mineral  deposits,  from  the  useful,  but  homely  veins 
of  coal,  to  beds  of  the  most  brilliant  and  valuable  jewels.  The  earth 
yields  us  not  only  our  food,  but  the  rarest  medicines  and  drugs.  It 
pours  out  in  streams  oil  for  burning,  gas  that  may  be  used  fresh  from 
the  natural  springs,  salt  that  requires  but  the  heat  of  the  sun  for  its 
perfection,  and  beds  of  pure  soda  that  cover  the  earth  like  the  dust  in 
the  highways.  In  short,  all  that  is  needed  for  the  preservation  and 
comfort  of  animal  and  human  life  exists  in  this  favored  land  in  the 
greatest  profusion. 

So  much  has  the  Creator  done  for  us.  Man  has  not  been  slow  to 
take  advantage  of  these  blessings.  In  the  comparatively  short  space 
of  three  hundred  years  the  Auierican  people  have  become  a  mighty 
nation,  increasing  with  a  rapidity  that  is  almost  marvellous.  They 
have  built  up  the  country  on  a  scale  of  magnificence  of  which  they 
may  justly  be  proud.  They  have  covered  it  with  splendid  cities, 
connected  by  a  network  of  railways  binding  all  the  scattered  parts 
into  one  solid  whole.  They  have  made  a  commerce  and  a  system  of 
manufactures  before  which  the  fabled  wealth  of  Tyre  sinks  into 
insignificance.  They  have  built  up  a  literature  which  commands  the 
respect  of  the  world.  They  have  illustrated  their  history  with  deedi 


6  PREFACE. 

of  arras  not  less  splendid  than  their  more  peaceful  achievements, 
and  have  given  to  the  world  names  in  every  walk  of  life  that  will 
never  die. 

All  this  have  they  done,  and  yet  the  mass  of  them  are  ignorant, 
or  but  imperfectly  informed,  of  the  magnitude  and  value  of  their 
achievements. 

It  is  the  object  of  this  work  to  present  to  them  at  a  glance  the 
actual  condition  of  the  Republic  at  the  present  day.  The  Author  is 
well  aware  that  such  a  tremendous  undertaking  can  be  but  imperfectly 
accomplished  in  a  volume  of  this  size ;  yet  he  ventures  to  express  the 
hope  that  he  has  made  the  statement  herein  presented  sufficiently 
complete  and  comprehensive  to  be  of  service  to  the  reader. 

The  tables  and  other  statistics  in  the  body  of  the  work  are  mainly 
from  the  latest  State  reports  available.  The  Author  would  here 
express  his  obligations  to  General  Francis  A.  Walker,  the  accom- 
plished superintendent  of  the  census  of  1870,  for  assistance  received 
from  him  in  the  collection  of  statistics. 

It  is  hoped  that  the  Illustrations  will  aid  in  bringing  to  the  mind 
of  the  reader  a  vivid  picture  of  the  busy,  restless,  energetic  Republic 
of  the  West,  and  also  to  render  him  more  familiar  with  some  of  the 
charms  of  American  scenery. 

J.  D.  McC.,  JR. 
YORK, 
September  2&h,  1873. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


NO.  PAGE 

1.  The  Capitol  at  Washington Frontispiece. 

2.  Coat  of  Arras  of  the  Republic 31 

3.  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence 51 

4.  A  View  on  the  Alleghany  Mountains 59 

5.  A  View  on  the  Rocky  Mountains 61 

6.  Ploughing  a  Western  Prairie 62 

7.  A  Western  Homestead 76 

8.  View  on  the  Hudson  River,  showing  the  Steamboat,  Telegraph,  and  Railroad 83 

9.  Indians  Viewing  the  Pacific  Railroad 84 

10.  An  Indian  Village  in  Winter 103 

11.  Sioux  Indians  Burning  a  Prisoner 104 

12.  Ruins  of  Jamestown,  Va 107 

13.  Plymouth  Rock 109 

14.  First  Settlement  of  New  York  City Ill 

15.  First  Settlers  of  America  Clearing  Land 113 

16.  Burning  of  Deerfield,  Mass 117 

17.  Ruins  of  Ticonderoga 128 

18.  Independence  Hall  in  1776 131 

19.  Scene  of  the  Battle  of  Lake  Champlain 146 

20.  Plain  of  Chalmette:  Scene  of  the  Battle  of  New  Orleans . 148 

21.  Maine— State  Coat  of  Arms 165 

22.  An  American  Forest 166 

23.  Lumbering  in  Maine 169 

24.  Lumberman's  Camp  in  the  Woods  of  Maine 172 

25.  City  Hall  and  Court  House  at  Portland 184 

26.  New  Hampshire— State  Coat  of  Arms 189 

27.  Scene  on  the  White  Mountains 191 

28.  The  State  House  at  Concord 200 

29.  Vermont— State  Coat  of  Arms 205 

30.  A  View  of  Montpelier,  Vt 213 

31.  A  View  of  Rutland,  Vt 216 

32.  Massachusetts— State  Coat  of  Arms 222 

33.  Harvard  University,  Cambridge,  Mass 229 

34.  A  View  of  Boston 238 

35.  State  House,  at  Boston 239 

36.  Faneuil  Hall,  at  Boston 240 

37.  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  at  Boston 248 

38.  Pacific  Mills,  Lawrence,  Mass 256 

39    A  View  from  Greenfield,  Mass 258 

40.  Rhode  Island— State  Coat  of  Arms 274 

41.  Coast  Fishing 280 

42.  Narragansett  Bay,  R.  I 282s 

43.  A  View  of  Newport,  R.  I 285 

44.  Connecticut— State  Coat  of  Arms 292 

45.  A  View  from  Mount  Holyoke,  Conn 293 

46.  Yale  College,  New  Haven,  Conn 300 

47.  A  View  of  New  Haven,  Conn 30ft 

48.  New  York— State  Coat  of  Arms 323 

49.  A  Scene  in  the  Catskill  Mountains 324 

50.  A  View  on  the  Hudson  River 329 

51.  Scene  on  Lake  George 330 

52.  The  Falls  of  Niagara 333 

53.  New  York  City  in  1664 349, 

7 


8  LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

NO.  *AGl 

54.  A  View  of  Albany,  N.  Y 353 

55.  A  View  of  New  York  City 356 

56.  Scene  on  Broadway,  New  York  City 358 

57.  Scene  on  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York  City 360 

58.  View  in  Central  Park,  New  York  City 361 

59.  The  Water  Terrace  in  Central  Park,  New  York  City 362 

60.  City  Hall,  New  York  City 365 

61.  Academy  of  Design 3G7 

62.  High  Bridge,  at  Harlem 370 

63.  Union  Square,  and  Washington  Monument 373 

64.  United  States  Navy  Yard,  Brooklyn,  L.  1 377 

65.  View  from  West  Point 380 

66.  Genesee  Falls,  at  Rochester,  N.  Y 382 

67.  A  View  of  Oswego,  N.  Y 388 

68.  New  Jersey— State  Coat  of  Arms 404 

69.  Gathering  Watermelons 407 

70.  Princeton  College,  N.  J..; 409 

71.  Bergen  Tunnel 411 

72.  Passaic  Falls,  at  Paterson,  N.  J 421 

73.  A  Scene  at  Atlantic  City,  N.  J. 423 

74.  Pennsylvania— State  Coat  of  Arms 429 

75.  A  View  on  the  Juniata  River 431 

76.  The  Schuylkill,  above  Philadelphia 432 

77.  Mount  Pisgah,  and  the  Coal  Region 433 

78.  Deep  Cut  on  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad 441 

79.  The  Susquehanna,  above  Harrisburg 443 

8fl.  A  View  of  Philadelphia  from  Camden 444 

81.  Philadelphia,  from  Fairmount  Park 445 

82.  The  Wissahickon,  at  Chestnut  Hill 446 

83.  Philadelphia  Small  Homes 447 

84.  The  Ledger  Building,  Philadelphia 448 

85.  Fairmount  Water  Works,  Philadelphia 449 

86.  The  Wissahickon,  Philadelphia 450 

87.  The  Union  League  Building,  Philadelphia 451 

88.  The  New  Masonic  Temple,  Philadelphia 452 

89.  Hemlock  Glen,  Fairmount  Park,  Philadelphia 458 

90.  New  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Philadelphia 454 

91.  Wissahickon'New  Drive,  Philadelphia 455 

92.  The  Schuylkill  River,  at  the  Falls,  Philadelphia 456 

93.  Chestnut  Street  Bridge,  Philadelphia 457 

94.  A  Public  Fountain,  Philadelphia 458 

95.  Independence  Hall  in  1872,  Philadelphia 460 

96.  A  View  of  Pittsburgh,  Pa 462 

97.  A  View  of  Scranton,  Pa 472 

98.  A  View  of  Easton,  Pa 475 

99.  Delaware— State  Coat  of  Arms... 491 

100.  A  Peach  Farm  in  Delaware 498 

101.  Maryland— State  Coat  of  Arms 503 

102.  Oyster  Fishery,  Maryland 505 

103.  Battle  Monument,  nt  Baltimore 519 

104.  A  Scene  on  Baltimore  Street, , 522 

105.  Scene  on  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad 525 

106.  District  of  Columbia— Coat  of  Arms 529 

107.  Columbian  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution fr 531 

108.  New  Building  of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Washington 536 

109.  United  States  Treasury  Building,  Washington 546 

110.  United  States  Patent  Office,  Washington 549 

111.  Virginia — State  Coat  of  Arms 555 

112.  Natural  Tunnel,  Virginia 561 

113.  Little  Stony  Falls,  Virginia 565 

114.  A  View  of  Richmond,  Virginia 576 

115.  Mount  Vernon 582 

116.  North  Carolina— State  Coat  of  Arms 595 

117.  A  View  on  the  Sea  Coast  of  North  Carolina 598 

118.  Capitol  at  Raleigh,  N.  C 607 

119.  South  Carolina — State  Coat  of  Arms 613 

120.  A  Scene  near  Beaufort,  S.  C 614 

J21.  Rice  Fields 616 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS.  9 

yso.  PAGE 

122.  A  View  of  Charleston,  S.  C 625 

123.  Georgia — State  Coat  of  Arms  632 

124.  A  View  of  Savannah,  Georgia 642 

125.  Florida — State  Coat  of  Anns 649 

126.  St.  John's  River,  Florida 651 

127.  St.  Augustine,  Florida 662 

128.  Alabama— State  Coat  of  Arms 664 

129.  A  Bluff  on  the  Alabama  River 666 

130.  Capitol  at  Montgomery,  Alabama 677 

131.  The  Landing  at  Mobile 679 

132.  Mississippi — State  Coat  of  Arms 682 

m.  On  the  Shores  of  the  Yazoo 682 

134.  Picking  Cotton 684 

135.  Jackson,  Miss 691 

136.  Natchez,  Miss 692 

137.  A  View  of  Vicksburg,  Miss 694 

138.  Louisiana— State  Coat  of  Arms 699 

139.  Gathering  Sugar  Cane 702 

140.  A  Sugar  House ,, 705 

141.  Scene  on  St.  Charles  Street,  New  Orleans 715 

142.  Jackson  Square,  New  Orleans 718 

143.  Lafayette  Square,  New  Orleans 721 

144.  Texas— State  Coat  of  Arms 731 

145.  On  the  Gulf. 732 

146.  Galveston,  Texas 748 

147.  The  Alamo  San  Antonio,  Texas 750 

148.  West  Virginia — State  Coat  of  Arms 757 

149.  A  View  of  Harper's  Ferry,  West  Virginia 758 

150.  A  View  of  Wheeling,  West  Virginia 766 

151.  Tennessee— State  Coat  of  Arms 778 

152.  Nashville,  Tenn 786 

153.  Memphis,  Tenn 788 

154.  Kentucky— State  Coat  of  Arms 795 

155.  Inside  View,  Mammoth  Cave,  Ky 797 

156.  Frankfort,  Ky 805 

157.  Louisville,  Ky 806 

158.  Ohio — State  Coat  of  Arms 816 

159.  State  Capitol  at  Columbus,  0 824 

160.  A  View  of  Cincinnati,  0 ; 826 

161.  Scene  on  Fourth  Street,  Cincinnati,  0 . 827 

162.  The  Tyler  Davidson  Fountain,  Cincinnati,  0 829 

163.  Scene  on  Superior  Street,  Cleveland,  0 83S 

164.  Court  House,  at  Dayton,  0 835 

165.  Indiana— State  Coat  of  Arras 841 

166.  State  House,  at  Indianapolis,  Ind 848 

167.  Evansville,  Ind 850 

168.  New  Albany,  Ind 851 

169.  Lafayette,  Ind 853 

170.  Illinois— State  Coat  of  Arms 859 

171.  State  House,  at  Springfield,  111 869 

172.  A  View  of  Chicago,  111 870 

173.  The  Tribune  Building,  Chicago,  111 873 

174.  Scene  on  Lake  Street,  Chicago,  111 877 

175.  Quincy,  111 883 

176.  Alton,  111 888 

177.  Chicago  in  Flames 890 

178.  Michigan— State  Coat  of  Arms ; 898 

179.  A  Western  River  Scene 899 

180.  Woodward  Avenue,  Detroit,  Mich 909 

181.  Wisconsin— State  Coat  of  Arms 918 

182.  A  Copper  Mine  in  Wisconsin 920 

183.  Madison,  Wis 927 

184.  River  View,  in  Milwaukee,  Wis 929 

185.  Minnesota— State  Coat  of  Arms 934 

186.  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  Minn 935 

187.  St.  Paul,  Minn 943 

188.  Iowa— State  Coat  of  Arms.. 945 

189.  A  Rest  on  the  Prairies 946 


10  LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

NO.  *AGB 

190.  Davenport,  Iowa 954 

191.  Dubuque,  Iowa 955 

192.  Burlington,  Iowa 956 

193.  Missouri — State  Coat  of  Arms 963 

194.  Floating  Island,  on  the  Missouri  River 964 

195.  A  View  of  St.  Louis,  Mo 970 

196.  Court  House,  at  St.  Louis 972 

197.  St.  Joseph,  Mo 977 

198.  Arkansas— State  Coat  of  Arms 982 

199.  Little  Rock,  Ark 987 

200.  Helena,  Ark 988 

201.  Kansas— State  Coat  of  Arms 989 

202.  Indians  Attacking  U.  S.  Overland  Mail  Coach 994 

203.  Leavenworth  City,  Kansas 999 

204.  Nebraska— State  Coat  of  Arms 1001 

205.  Crossing  the  Plains 1002 

206.  Depot  at  Omaha 1006 

207.  A  View  of  Omaha,  Nebraska 1007 

208.  Nevada — State  Coat  of  Arms 1008 

209.  The  Palisades,  Humboldt  River,  Nevada 1009 

210.  Silver  Mining,  Nevada 1011 

211.  California— State  Coat  of  Arms 1016 

212.  Original  Big  Tree,  California 1018 

213.  Hydraulic  Mining,  California 1024 

214.  A  View  of  San  Francisco 1034 

215.  Cape  Horn 1045 

216.  Oregon— State  Coat  of  Arms 1053 

217-   An  Oregon  Valley 1056 

218.  Alaska  Territory 1065 

219.  Mount  St.  Elias,  Alaska 1068 

220.  Sitka,  Alaska 1070 

221.  Arizona  Territory 1071 

222.  Aztec  Mountains 1072 

223.  Colorado — Coat  of  Arms 1075 

224.  Buffalo  Hunting 1076 

225.  A  Canon  in  Colorado 1079 

226.  Dakota  Territory 1081 

227.  Idaho  Territory 1086 

228.  A  Canon  in  the  Rocky  Mountains 1087 

229.  The  Indian  Territory 1090 

230.  Indians  Hunting  Bison 1090 

231.  Montana 1092 

232.  A  Frontier  City 1095 

233.  New  Mexico 1097 

234.  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico 1099 

235.  Utah— Coat  of  Arms 1101 

236.  The  Tabernacle,  Salt  Lake  City 1104 

237.  Main  Street,  Salt  Lake  City 1106 

238.  Washington  Territory 1110 

239.  A  Street  in  Olympia 1114 

240.  Wyoming  Territory Ulfi 

241.  A  Prairie  Dog  City "  j^y 

242.  A  New  Map  of  the  United  States ".  1120 


CONTENTS. 


PART    I. 

THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA. 

Description  of  the  American  Continent — Its  grand  divisions — North  Ame- 
rica— Dimensions  and  Divisions — The  United  States  of  North  America 
— Description  of  the  Great  Republic — Its  dimensions  and  political  divi- 
sions— Its  population,  showing  the  increase  since  1790 — The  rivers  of 
the  United  States — Description  of  the  great  water  system  of  the  Re- 
public— The  Mississippi — Its  wonderful  history — Its  wealth  and  peculiar- 
ities— The  Missouri  River — How  the  Mississippi  Valley  is  drained — The 
other  tributaries  of  the  "  Father  of  Waters  "—The  Great  Lakes  of  the 
North — Explanation  of  the  mountain  system  of  the  United  States — The 
wonders  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — Soil  of  the  United  States — State- 
ment of  the  various  qualities  of  soil  existing  in  the  Republic,  and  of 
their  capacity  for  adding  to  the  national  wealth — Description  of  the 
climate  of  the  United  States,  showing  the  peculiar  features  of  each 
section  of  the  country — Relative  healthfulness  of  the  various  States, 
showing  which  is  the  healthiest — Description  of  the  mineral  wealth  of 
the  Republic,  showing  where  the  different  minerals  are  found  and  in 
what  quantities — The  undeveloped  riches  of  the  country — Products  of 
the  soil— The  animals  of  the  United  States— A  brief  sketch  of  the 
American  natural  history — Characteristics  of  the  population — The  dis- 
tinguishing marks  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  various  States — Table, 
showing  the  arrivals  and  destination  of  emigrants  since  1820 — What 
emigration  has  done  for  the  Union — The  agricultural  resources  of  the 
United  States— List  of  the  agricultural  products,  showing  where  each 
is  grown,  and  the  portion  of  the  country  to  which  it  is  best  adapted — 
Facts  for  producers  and  consumers — The  manufacturing  interests — 
Rapid  growth  and  great  extent  of  this  portion  of  our  wealth — The  com- 
merce of  the  United  States— Its  vast  proportions— Our  internal  im- 
provements— History  of  the  rise  and  growth  of  the  canal,  railroad, 
steamboat,  and  telegraph  in  this  country — Our  educational  system — 
Explanation  of  the  American  system  of  free  schools— The  Press— Its 

11 


12  CONTENTS. 

importance  and  power — Number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  published 
— The  postal  system  of  the  Republic — Religious  denominations,  show- 
ing the  strength  of  each  religious  sect  in  the  United  States — Popula- 
tion of  the  leading  cities  of  the  Union — Explanation  of  the  Government 
of  the  United  States— A  concise  view  of  the  Federal  Constitution — The 
Executive,  Legislative,  and  Judiciary,  and  their  duties — Relations  of 
the  States  to  the  General  Government — Powers  and  limitations  of  the 
General  Government— The  Army  and  Navy  of  the  Republic — Their 
strength — Financial  condition  of  the  United  States  in  1870— History  of 
the  United  States — General  view  of  the  Indians  of  North  America — 
Who  they  were — Discovery  of  America  by  Columbus — Other  discove- 
ries— Expedition  of  De  Soto — Efforts  of  the  French  and  Spaniards  to 
settle  the  South — England  alarmed — Raleigh's  colony  on  Roanoake  Is- 
land— The  settlement  at  Jamestown — Voyages  of  Captain  John  Smith 
• — First  Legislative  Assembly  in  America — Introduction  of  African  Sla- 
very into"  Virgiuia-r-The  Plymouth  Colony — Landing  of  the  Pilgrims- 
Internal  organization  of  the  Colony,  and  its  progress — Foundation  of 
the  Colony  of  Massachusetts  Bay — Consolidation  of  the  Massachusetts 
settlements — Settlement  of  Maine,  Connecticut,  arid  Rhode  Island — Dis- 
covery of  the  Hudson  River — The  Dutch  settle  New  York — History  of 
the  Colony — It  is  captured  by  the  English — Settlement  of  New  Jersey 
and  Delaware — Settlement  of  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland — The  Caro- 
linas  and  Georgia  colonized  by  the  English — Prosperity  of  the  Colonies 
— Different  characteristics — Establishment  of  common  schools  arid  col- 
leges— Troubles  with  the  Indians — Aggressions  of  the  French — Their 
success  in  the  Mississippi  Valley — They  aid  the  Indians  in  their  attacks 
upon  the  English — King  William's,  Queen  Anne's,  and  King-  George's 
wars— Capture  of  Louisbourg — Trouble  with  the  French  on  the  Ohio — 

Washington's  journey — Military  operations  west  of   the    Mountains 

Braddock's  defeat—"  The  Old  French  War  "   in   the  other  Colonies 

Failures  of  the  English — A  change  of  ministry — William  Pitt — Capture 
of  Louisburg  and  Fort  Duquesne — Death  of  Lord  Howe — Capture  of 
Quebec— Expulsion  of  the  French  from  Canada— The  conspiracy  of 

Pontiac— Services  of  the  Colonists  during  the  wars  with  the  French 

Injustice  of  Great  Britain  towards  the  Colonies — Resistance  of  the 
Americans— The  unjust  taxes— Further  aggressions— The  call  for  a 
Continental  Congress— Meeting  and  acts  of  the  first  Congress— Suicidal 
policy  of  the  British  Government— The  "Boston  Massacre  "—The  tax 
on  tea — Destruction  of  tea  in  Boston  harbor — Closing  of  the  Port  of 

Boston — The  Colonies  make  common  cause  with  Massachusetts The 

second  Colonial  Congress— Its  acts— The  petition  for  redress— Stubborn- 
ness of  the  King— General  Gage  brings  matters  to  a  crisis— The  conflicts 
at  Lexington  and  Concord— The  beginning  of  the  Revolution— The  Meck- 
lenburg declaration  of  Independence— Meeting  of  the  Continental  Con- 
gress—Measures of  resistance— Washington  appointed  to  the  command 
of  the  American  Army— Battle  of  Bunker  Hill— Organization  of  the 
American  Army— Siege  of  Boston— The  invasion  of  Canada— The  Brit- 
ish fleet  repulsed  at  Charleston— Vigorous  measures  of  Congress— The 


CONTENTS.  \8 

Declaration  of  Independence — Battle  of  Long  Island — The  British  oc- 
cupy New  York  City — Gloomy  state  of  affairs  for  the  Colonies — Battle 
of  Trenton — A  gleam  of  hope — Defeat  of  the  British  at  Princeton — The 
"  Articles  of  Confederation  "  adopted — Events  of  the  Campaign  of  1777 
— Capture  of  Philadelphia — Battles  of  Germantown  and  Bennington — 
Surrender  of  Burgoyne's  army — The  treaty  with  France — Great  Britain's 
efforts  at  conciliation — Too  late — The  winter  at  the  Valley  Forge— Ar- 
rival of  the  French  fleet — Battle  of  Monmouth — Capture  of  Savannah 
by  the  British— Naval  affairs— The  British  take  Charleston,  S.  C.— Par- 
tisan war  in  the  South — Gates  defeated  at  Carnden — Battle  of  King's 
Mountain — Greene  sent  to  the  Carolinas — Treason  of  Arnold — Battles 
of  the  Cowpens  and  Guilford  Court  House — Washington  goes  after  Corn- 
wallis— Siege  of  Yorktown — Surrender  of  Cornwallis — The  close  of  the 
war — Condition  of  the  country — Organization  of  the  Republic  of  the 
United  States — Adoption  of  the  Federal  Constitution — Washington's 
two  Administrations — Admission  of  new  States — Washington  retires  to 
private  life — Administration  of  John  Adams — War  with  France — The 
Administrations  of  Jefferson — Political  disputes — Purchase  of  Louis- 
iana— The  affair  of  the  Chesapeake  and  the  Leopard — British  and 
French  outrages  upon  American  commerce— The  Embargo — James 
Madison  elected  President — The  second  war  with  England — Its  events 
by  land  and  sea — The  battle  of  New  Orleans — The  peace  of  1815 — The 
Baj'bary  States  chastised — The  Hartford  Convention — Reelection  of  Mr. 
Madison — The  Bank  of  the  United  States — Admission  of  Louisiana  and 
Indiana — Mr.  Monroe  elected  President — Admission  of  Mississippi,  Illi- 
nois, Alabama,  Maine,  and  Missouri  into  the  Union — The  slavery  excite- 
ment— The  "  Missouri  Compromise  " — The  "  Monroe  Doctrine  " — John 
Quincy  Adams  elected  President — The  Tariff  question — Administration 
of  Andrew  Jackson — The  National  Bank  question — the  Nullification 
troubles — Firmness  of  the  President — His  opposition  to  the  National 
Bank— He  removes  the  public  funds — The  National  Debt  paid — Admis- 
sion of  Arkansas  and  Michigan — Election  of  President  Van  Buren — 
The  commercial  crisis  of  1837 — Election  of  President  Harrison — Death 
of  General  Harrison — John  Tyler  becomes  President — His  Administra- 
tion— Admission  of  Texas — James  K.  Polk  elected  President — The  war 
with  Mexico — Results  of  the  war — Settlement  of  the  Oregon  question 
— Admission  of  Wisconsin — General  Taylor  elected  President — The 
"  Wilmot  Proviso  " — Discovery  of  gold  in  California — Admission  of  Cali- 
fornia into  the  Union — Political  strife — The  "  Compromise  of  1850  " — 
Death  of  General  Taylor — Mr.  Filmore's  Administration — The  Japan  ex- 
pedition— Election  of  President  Pierce — The  Kansas-Nebraska  contro- 
versy— The  Republican  party — The  anti-slavery  agitation  increases — 
Efforts  to  purchase  Cuba — Filibustering  expeditions — The  Know-Noth- 
ing party — Election  of  President  Buchanan — Admission  of  Minnesota 
— The  Kansas  war — The  Mormon  troubles — The  John  Brown  affair — 
The  Presidential  contest  of  1860 — Threatening  condition  of  public 
affairs — Election  of  President  Lincoln — Secession  of  the  Southern  States 
—The  Civil  War , Pages  29  to  162 


14  CONTENTS. 

PART     II. 

THE  NEW  ENGLAND  STATES. 

MAINE. 

Area  in  square  miles — Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— De- 
scription of  the  topography  of  the  State — Its  bays,  islands,  rivers,  moun- 
tains, and  lakes — The  woods  of  Maine — Their  beauty  and  resources — 
Description  of  the  lumber  region— The  minerals  of  Maine— Agricultural 
resources  of  the  State— Its  commerce  and  manufactures — Internal  im- 
provements—The railroads  of  Maine— The  Common  School  system- 
Explanation  of  its  features— Statement  of  the  schools  and  colleges  of 
the  State — Its  newspapers  and  libraries — The  penal  and  charitable  in- 
stitutions— Religious  denominations — Financial  condition  of  the  State — 
Explanation  of  the  State  Constitution  and  Government — History  of 
Maine — The  visit  of  Gosnold — First  settlement  of  Maine — Its  early 
history — Period  of  the  Revolution — Admission  into  the  Union  as  a 
State — Inroads  of  the  Rebels — Statement  of  troops  furnished  to  the 
United  States  Army  during  the  Civil  War — The  chief  cities  arid  towns — 
Description  of  Augusta — Portland — Bangor — The  story  of  Arnold's 
march  to  Quebec Pages  163  to  188 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Description  of  the 
topography  of  the  State — The  White  Mountains  and  their  beauties — 
The  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  State— The  Isle  of  Shoals — The  agricultural 
products — Description  of  the  soil  of  the  State — Commerce  and  manu- 
factures— Internal  improvements— The  educational  system — Description 
of  the  penal  and  charitable  institutions  and  their  present  condition — Re- 
ligious denominations — The  State  Government — Explanation  of  its  va- 
rious features — History  of  New  Hampshire — First  settlements  at  Dover 
and  Portsmouth — Trouble  with  the  Indians — The  Revolution — Enters 
the  Union — Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil  War — Description  of 
Concord,  Manchester,  Portsmouth,  and  Dover — Story  of  the  burning  of 
Dover  by  the  Indians Pages  189  to  204 

VERMONT. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— Physical  features  of 
Vermont — The  Green  Mountains — Lake  Champlain — Mineral  wealth — 
Climate — Description  of  the  soil — Agricultural  products  in  detail — 
Commerce  and  manufactures — Internal  improvements — The  Free  School 
system — The  charitable  and  penal  institutions — Religious  denominations 
—  Financial  condition  of  the  State — Its  government  and  internal 
system— History  of  Vermont— First  settlement— Troubles  with  New 
York— The  Revolution— Capture  of  Ticonderoga— Ethan  Allen  and 


CONTENTS.  15 

the  Green  Mountain  boys — Vermont  refuses  the  British  offers — Admis- 
sion into  the  Union— War  of  1812-15— The  St.Albans  affair— Troops  fur- 
nished  during  the  Civil  War — Description  of  the  principal  cities — 
Moritpelier — Burlington — Rutland — Benriington — The  battle  of  Ben- 
nington — The  taking  of  Ticonderoga Pages  205  to  221 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Description  of  the  to- 
pographical features  of  the  State — Its  islands,  bays,  rivers,  mountains 
and  lakes — Beauty  of  the  scenery  of  Massachusetts — Its  mineral  wealth 
— Climate — Description  of  the  soil — Its  agricultural  wealth — Commerce 
— The  vast  manufacturing  system  of  the  State — Its  internal  improve- 
ments— The  Free  Schools  of  Massachusetts — A  noble  system  of  public 
education — Harvard  University — Penal  and  charitable  institutions — Re- 
ligious denominations — Financial  condition  of  the  State — Explanation 
of  the  State  Government — History  of  Massachusetts — Discovery — Gos- 
nold's  Colony — Landing  of  the  Pilgrims — Growth  of  the  Plymouth 
Colony — Settlement  of  Massachusetts  Bay — Troubles  with  the  Indians — 
Internal  troubles — Accession  of  William  and  Mary — Consolidation  of 
the  Colonies — The  Salem  Witchcraft — Wars  with  the  French  and  In- 
dians— Resistance  to  the  injustice  of  Great  Britain — The  Revolution — 
Massachusetts  enters  the  Union — Shays's  Rebellion — War  of  1812-15 
— Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil  War — Description  of  Boston — An 
inside  view  of  the  Metropolis  of  New  England — Its  public  institutions 
— Its  characteristics,  sights,  habits  etc. — History  of  the  city  of  Boston 
from  its  settlement  to  the  present  day — Roxbury  and  Dorchester — Story 
of  the  Boston  Massacre — Destruction  of  tea  in  Boston  harbor — Charles- 
town — Bunker  Hill  Monument — Battle  of  Bunker  Hill — Cambridge — 
Harvard  University — Lowell — An  inside  view  of  the  factories  of  Lowell 
— Factory  life — Lynn — The  shoe  trade — Lawrence — Its  factories — Wor- 
cester— Springfield — The  United  States  Armory — Taunton — Salem — 
Plymouth— Miscellanies — Arrival  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Cape  Cod — The 
first  Sabbath  in  New  England — The  first  crimes  in  New  England — Story 
of  the  Salem  Witchcraft — A  wonderful  relation — Primitive  extravagance 
—A  fearful  snow  storm— The  Men  of  "Seventy-Six" Pages  222  to  273 

RHODE   ISLAND. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe— Topographical 
sketch  of  the  State — Minerals — Climate — Soil  and  agricultural  products 
— Commerce — Importance  of  Rhode  Island  as  a  manufacturing  State — 
Internal  improvements — Educational  system — Penal  and  charitable  in- 
stitutions— Religious  denominations — Financial  condition — Explanation 
of  the  State  Government — History  of  Rhode  Island — Settlement  by 
Roger  Williams — Early  years  of  the  Colony — Death  of  King  Philip — 
Colonial  history — The  Revolution — Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil 
War — Description  of  Providence — Newport — The  most  fashionable  wa- 
tering place  in  America — Early  history  of  Newport — Seizure  of  General 
X*rescott — Destruction  of  the  Gaspee Pages  274  to  291 


16  CONTENTS. 

CONNECTICUT. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— Topographical 
features  of  the  State — Mineral  wealth  of  Connecticut — Climate — De- 
scription of  the  soil  and  agricultural  products  of  the  State — Commerce 
— Manufactures — Interesting  details  of  the  factories  of  Connecticut — 
Internal  improvements — The  Common  School  system  of  the  State — A 
noble  school  fund— Yale  College— Penal  and  charitable  institutions— 
The  system  of  instruction  for  the  deaf  and  dumb — Religious  denomina- 
tions— Finances  of  the  State — Its  debt  arid  annualexpenses — Explana- 
tion of  the  State  Government — History  of  Connecticut — Dutch  settle- 
ments— The  English  in  Connecticut — Founding  of  Hartford  and  New 
Haven — Wars  with  the  Pequots — The  affair  of  the  Charter  Oak — Colo- 
nial history — The  Eevolution — Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil  War 
— Description  of  New  Haven — Yale  College  and  its  history — Capture  of 
New  Haven  by  the  British — Hartford — Extracts  from  the  old  laws  of 
the  city — Norwich — Bridgeport — Waterbury — New  London — Norwalk 
— Middletown — The  Blue  Laws  of  Connecticut — The  Regicides — The 
penalty  for  kissing— The  Dark  Day — American  Independence— Election 
day  in  the  olden  time Pages  292  to  319 


PART   III. 

THE  MIDDLE  STATES. 

NEW   YORK. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  on  the  globe— Topographical  sketch 
of  the  State— The  Hudson— The  Catskills— Lake  George— Niagara 
Falls— Long  Island— Mineral  Wealth— Climate— Soil  and  productions 
of  the  State — Statement  of  the  foreign  and  domestic  commerce  of  New 
York— Manufactures— Magnificent  system  of  internal  improvements— 
The  Erie  Canal— Educational  system— The  free  schools— The  colleges 
—Newspapers  and  periodicals— Penal  and  charitable  institutions— A 
noble  system— Religious  denominations— Financial  condition  of  the 
State— Explanation  of  the  State  Government— History  of  New  York 
—Discoveries  of  Champlain  and  Hudson— The  Dutch  at  Manhattan  Is- 
land and  Fort  Orange— The  Province  passes  into  the  hands  of  the  Eng- 
lish—Early  troubles— Injustice  of  the  Crown— Wars  with  the  Indians 
and  the  French— The  Revolution— Controversy  with  Yermont  settled- 
War  of  1812-15— Internal  improvements  begun— Completion  of  the 
Erie  Canal— Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil  War— Description  and 
history  of  Albany— The  city  of  New  York— Description  of  it— The  Me- 
tropolis of  the  Union— Its  palaces  of  trade  and  art— The  Central  Park 
-Commercial  importance  of  the  city— The  ferry  system— Places  of 
amusements—Public  buildings— Schools— Scientific,  literary  and  bene- 


CONTENTS.  17 

volent  institutions — Prisons — Croton  water — History  of  the  city  of  New 
York — Brooklyn — The  city  of  churches — The  United  States  Navy  Yard 
— Prospect  Park — Buffalo — Its  commercial  importance — Rochester — 
Troy — Syracuse — Salt  works — Utica — Oswego — Ancient  laws  of  New 
York— Old  time  customs  of  New  York  City— The  Negro  Plot  in  New 
York — How  Rochester  was  saved  from  the  British Pages  321  to  403 

NEW  JERSEY. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Topography  of  the 
State — Mineral  wealth — Climate — Soil  arid  productions — Commerce  and 
manufactures — Internal  improvements — The  school  system — Penal  and 
charitable  institutions — Religious  denominations — Financial  condition — 
Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  New  Jersey —  It 
passes  into  the  hands  of  the  English — The  Revolution — Troops  fur- 
nished during  the  Civil  War — Description  of  Trenton — Newark — Its 
manufactures — Jersey  City — Paterson — Elizabeth— Camden — Battle  of 
Trenton — Murder  of  Rev.  James  Caldwell — A  mutiny  in  the  Continen- 
tal Army Pages  404  to  428 

PENNSYLVANIA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Topographical  features  of  the  State — Mineral 
wealth  of  Pennsylvania — Its  extent  and  importance — Climate— Soil  and 
productions — Commerce — Manufactures  of  Pennsylvania — Internal  im- 
provements— The  Canal  system — The  free  schools  and  Colleges — The 
Press — Libraries — Penal  and  charitable  institutions — Religious  denomi- 
nations— Financial  condition  of  the  State — Explanation  of  the  State  Gov- 
ernment— History  of  Pennsylvania — First  settlement  of  the  State — The 
grant  to  William  Penn — Settlement  by  the  Quakers — Philadelphia 
founded — Treaty  with  the  Indians — Progress  of  the  Colony — The  Revo- 
lution— Philadelphia  occupied  by  the  British — The  whiskey  insurrection 
— Invasion  of  the  State  during  the  Civil  War — Battle  of  Gettysburg — 
Description  of  Harrisburg — Philadelphia — Its  location — Description  of 
the  city — Its  dimensions — Fairmount  Park — The  public  buildings — 
Markets — Schools  and  Colleges — Literary  and  scientific  institutions — 
Prisons — Hospitals  and  Asylums — The  Press — Importance  of  the  ma- 
nufactures of  the  city — Commerce — United  States  Navy  Yard — History 
of  Philadelphia — Pittsburg — Sketch  of  its  manufactures — The  American 
Birmingham — Scranton — Reading — Lancaster — Erie — Easton — Old  time 
customs  in  Philadelphia — Massacre  of  Wyoming — The  sermon  before 
the  Brandy  wine — Battle  of  the  Brandywine — Adam  Poe's  fight  with  the 
Indians Pages  429  to  490 

DELAWARE. 

A-rea — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Topography — Mine- 
rals— Climate — Soil  and  productions — Manufactures — Internal  improve- 
ments— Educational  system — Religious  denominations— Finances — Ex- 
planation of  the  State  Government — History  of  Delaware — First  settle- 
ment— Becomes  a  separate  Colony — The  Revolution — The  Civil  War — 
Description  of  Dover — Wilmington... Pages  491  to  499 


18  CONTENTS. 

PART    IV. 

THE  SOUTHERN  STATES. 

MARYLAND. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— Topographical  sketch 
— Chesapeake  Bay— Duck  shooting — Mineral  wealth  of  the  State — 
Climate— Soil  and  productions— Manufactures— Internal  improvements 
—The  new  Free  School  system— Colleges— Newspapers  and  periodicals 
published  in  the  State — Penal  arid  charitable  institutions — Religious 
denominations — Financial  condition  of  Maryland — Explanation  of  the 
State  Government — History  of  Maryland — Settlement  on  Kent  Island 
— Arrival  of  Lord  Baltimore's  Colony — Trouble  with  Clayborn — Reli- 
gious freedom  guaranteed — Civil  War — Triumph  'of  the  Puritans — An- 
napolis made  the  capital — Baltimore  settled — Wars  with  France — The 
Revolution — Sufferings  of  the  Bay  counties  during  the  war  of  1812-15 
—Battles  of  Bladensburg,  Fort  McHenry  and  North  Point— The  Civil 
War — Invasion  of  the  State  by  General  Lee — Battle  of  Antietam — De- 
scription of  Annapolis — Baltimore  City — Washington  Monument — 
Public  institutions  and  buildings — History  of  Baltimore— Cumber- 
land— Frederick  City — The  Baltimore  Riot — Anecdote  of  Charles  Car- 
roll  Pages  501  to  528 

THE   DISTRICT  OF   COLUMBIA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Dimensions — Explanation  of  the  new  Terri- 
torial Government — History  of  the  District — Washington  City — De- 
scription of  it — The  Public  Buildings — The  Capitol — Its  magnificence 
without  and  within — The  White  House — The  Treasury  building — The 
Patent  Office — The  General  Post  Office— The  Navy  Yard— The  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture — The  Smithsonian  Institution — The  Washington 
Monument — Georgetown Pages  529  to  554 

VIRGINIA. 

A-rea — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Detailed  description 
of  the  physical  features  of  the  State — Its  various  divisions,  rivers, 
mountains,  etc. — The  Dismal  Swamp — Mineral  wealth  of  Virginia — 
An  opportunity  for  capitalists — The  mineral  springs — Agricultural  pro- 
ducts— Commerce — Manufactures — Internal  improvements — The  educa- 
tional system — The  University  of  Virginia — Penal  and  benevolent  in- 
stitutions— Financial  condition — Explanation  of  the  State  Government 
— History  of  Virginia — The  settlement  at  Jamestown — Colonial  history 
— Introduction  of  slavery  into  the  colony — Virginia  sides  with  the  King 
— Treaty  with  the  Commonwealth — Bacon's  Rebellion — Williamsburg 
made  the  capital — Troubles  with  the  Frencli  on  the  Ohio — Washington's 


CONTENTS.  19 

mission — Resistance  to  the  aggressions  of  the  Crown — The  Revolution 
— The  war  in  Virginia — Surrender  of  Cornwallis — Formation  of  the 
Union — War  of  1812-15 — The  Southampton  Massacre — The  John 
Brown  affair — The  Civil  War — Principal  cities — Richmond — Descrip- 
tion of  the  city — Norfolk — Portsmouth — United  States  Navy  Yard — 
Petersburg — Alexandria — Mount  Vernon — The  home  and  tomb  of 
Washington — Lynchburg — The  first  Legislative  Assembly  in  America 
— Treaty  between  Virginia  and  England — Introduction  of  tobacco  into 
Europe — Anecdotes  of  Patrick  Henry — Speech  of  Logan — Washington  l 
and  the  Widow  Custis — Death  of  Washington Pages  555  to  594 

NORTH  CAROLINA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Topographical  sketch  of  the  State — Climate — 
.Soil  and  productions — Natural  growth  of  North  Carolina — Mineral 
deposits — Manufactures — Commerce — Internal  improvements — Educa- 
tional system — The  free  schools — University  of  North  Carolina — Penal 
and  charitable  Institutions — Religious  denominations — Financial  condi- 
tion of  the  State — Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of 
North  Carolina — The  Colony  on  Roanoke  Island — The  grant  of  Charles 
II. — Locke's  Constitution — Early  troubles — War  with  the  Indians — 
Separation  of  the  Carolinas — The  Revolution — The  Mecklenburg 
Declaration  of  Independence — Battles  of  King's  Mountain  and  Guilford 
Court  House — Cession  of  Tennessee  to  the  United  States — Events  of  the 
Civil  War — Description  of  the  cities  of  Raleigh,  Wilmington,  Newberne, 
and  Charlotte— The  First  English  colony  in  America— The  Greatest 
American Pages  595  to  612 

SOUTH  CAROLINA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Physical  features  of 
the  State — The  Sea  Islands — Mineral  wealth — Climate — Soil  and  produc- 
tions— Commerce — Manufactures — Internal  improvements — The  educa- 
tional system — The  free  schools — The  Colleges — Penal  and  benevolent 
Institutions — Religious  denominations — Financial  condition  of  South 
Carolina — Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  South 
Carolina — Settlement  at  Port  Royal  by  the  French — The  English 
occupy  the  country2— Formation  of  the  Province  of  South  Carolina — 
Troubles  with  the  Indians  and  Spaniards — The  Revolution — Attack  on 
Fort  Moultrie  repulsed — Enters  the  Union — The  Civil  War — Reconstruc- 
tion— Description  of  Columbia — Charleston — Detailed  description  of  it — 
An  incident  in  the  life  of  Sergeant  Jasper Pages  613  to  631 

GEORGIA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Topography  of  the 
State^ — Mineral  wealth  of  Georgia — Climate — Soil  and  agricultural 
products — Commerce — Manufactures — Internal  improvements — Educa- 


20  CONTENTS. 

tional  system— Penal  and  charitable  Institutions— Religions  denomina- 
tions— Financial  condition — Explanation  of  the  State  Government — 
History  of  Georgia— First  settlement— Severe  conditions — They  are 
withdrawn— Wars  with  the  Spaniards— Introduction  of  negro  slavery — 
Growth  of  the  Colony— The  Revolution— Capture  of  Savannah— Re- 
moval of  the  Indian  tribes— The  Civil  War— Description  of  Atlanta- 
Savannah— The  "  Forest  City  "  of  the  South— Augusta— Macon— Co- 
lumbus—The  Empress  of  Georgia Pages  632  to 


FLORIDA. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  on  the  globe— Topographical  features 
of  Florida — The  Everglades — Climate — Description  of  the  soil — Agri- 
cultural products — Commerce — Manufactures — Internal  improvements 
— Educational  system — Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Religious 
denominations— Financial  condition — Explanation  of  the  State  Govern- 
ment— History  of  Florida — Early  settlements — Florida  under  Spanish 
rule — French  settlements — Troubles  with  the  English — Florida  ceded  to 
Great  Britain — It  is  restored  to  Spain — Purchased  by  the  United  States 
— War  with  the  Seminoles — Florida  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State 
— The  Civil  War — Reconstruction — Description  of  Tallahassee — Pensa- 
cola— St.  Augustine— A  peculiar  city— Key  West  City Pages  649  to  663 


ALABAMA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Topography  of  the 
State — The  Alabama  River — Soil — Climate— Agricultural  products — 
Minerals — Manufactures — Commerce — Internal  improvements — Educa- 
tional system— The  University  of  Alabama — Penal  and  benevolent  In- 
stitutions— Financial  condition  of  the  State — Explanation  of  the  State 
Government — History  of  Alabama — De  Soto's  expedition — Settlement 
of  Mobile — Alabama  under  British  rule — Indian  wars — Admission  of  the 
State  into  the  Union — The  Civil  War — Reconstruction — Description  of 
Montgomery— Mobile— Battle  of  Horse-Shoe  Bend Pages  664  to  681 


MISSISSIPPI. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Topography — Climate 
— Soil — Agricultural  products — Commerce  and  manufactures — Educa- 
tional system — Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Financial  condition — 
Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  Mississippi — First 
settlements — Extermination  of  the  Natchez  Indians — Organization  of 
Mississippi — Admission  into  the  Union  as  a  State — Events  of  the  civil 
war— Reconstruction— Description  of  the  cities  of  Jackson,  Natchez, 
and  Vicksburg— Full  account  of  the  extermination  of  the  Natchez 
Indians— Mason  the  outlaw Pages  682  to  699 


CONTENTS.  21 

LOUISIANA. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  on  the  globe— Topography— Climate 
— Soil  and  agricultural  productions — Manufactures  and  commerce — In- 
ternal improvements — Educational  system — Penal  and  charitable  In- 
stitutions— Religious  denominations — Financial  condition — Explanation 
of  the  State  Government — History  of  Louisiana — Discoveries  of  La 
Salle — Efforts  to  settle  the  Province — Law's  scheme — Settlement 
of  New  Orleans — Growth  of  the  Colony — New  Orleans  in  Spanish  hands 
— Louisiana  restored  to  France — History  of  the  purchase  of  Louisiana 
by  the  United  States — Admission  of  the  State  into  the  Union — Events 
of  the  Civil  War— Reconstruction — Detailed  description  of  the  City  of 
New  Orleans — Its  mixed  population — The  public  buildings  and  In- 
stitutions— The  Levee — Commerce  of  New  Orleans — Manufactures — 
The  Carnival — History  of  New  Orleans— Battle  of  New  Orleans 

Pages  700  to  730 

TEXAS. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Topography — Mineral 
wealth — Climate — Soil  and  agricultural  products — Commerce  and  Manu- 
factures— Internal  improvements — Educational  system — Penal  and 
charitable  Institutions — Religious  denominations — Financial  condition 
of  the  State — Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  Texas 
— La  Salle's  Expedition — His  death — Settlement  of  Texas  by  the 
Spaniards — First  struggle  for  Independence — The  Texan  Revolution — 
The  Republic  of  Texas — Annexation  to  the  United  States — Admission 
of  Texas  as  a  State — Events  of  the  Civil  War — Reconstruction — Descrip- 
tion of  the  cities  of  Austin,  Galveston,  Houston,  and  San  Antonio — The 
capture  of  the  Alamo — Fanniri's  Massacre Pages  731  to  754 


PART    V. 

THE   WESTERN   STATES. 

WEST  VIRGINIA. 

Area — Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe — Topography— Har- 
per's Ferry — Climate — Mineral  wealth — Soil  and  productions — Manufac- 
tures and  commerce — Internal  improvements — Educational  system — 
Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Explanation  of  the  State  Government 
— History  of  West  Virginia — The  Civil  War — Separation  of  the  West- 
ern counties  from  the  State  of  Virginia — Description  of  Charleston — 
The  Kanawha  Salines — Wheeling — Its  manufactures — Parkersburg — 
Border  life,  showing  the  trials  and  mode  of  life  of  the  first  settlers  of 
the  West Pages  755  to  777 


22  CONTENTS. 

TENNESSEE. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— Topography— Mine- 
ral wealth — Climate — Soil  and  productions — Commerce  and  manufac- 
tures— Internal  improvements — Educational  system — Penal  and  chari- 
table institutions — Financial  condition-r-Explanation  of  the  State  Gov- 
ernment—History of  Tennessee— First  settlements— Siege  of  Fort 
Loudon— The  Revolution— North  Carolina  cedes  Tennessee  to  the  United 
States— Admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State— Events  of  the  Civil  War 
— Description  of  the  cities  of  Nashville,  Memphis,  and  Knoxville— The 
boyhoo'd  of  Andrew  Jackson Pages  778  to  794 

KENTUCKY. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— Topographical  sketch 
of  the  State — Mineral  wealth— Climate — Soil  and  productions — Com- 
merce and  manufactures — Internal  improvements — Educational  system 
— Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Religious  denominations — Financial 
condition— Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  Kentucky 
— Early  discoveries— First  settlement  of  Kentucky — Wars  with  the  In- 
dians— The  settlers  desire  a  separate  Government — Virginia  cedes  Ken- 
tucky to  the  United  States — Admission  into  the  Union  as  a  State — The 
war  of  1812-15— The  Civil  War— Description  of  Frankfort— Louisville 
— A  beautiful  city — The  falls  of  the  Ohio — Importance  of  the  manufac- 
tures and  commerce  of  the  city — Covington — Newport — Lexington — 
Daniel  Boone's  account  of  his  adventures Pages  795  to  815 

OHIO. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Topography — Min- 
eral wealth — Climate — Soil  and  agricultural  productions — Commerce  and 
manufactures— Internal  improvements— Educational  system— The  Ohio 
Free  Schools — Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Religious  denomina- 
tions—Financial condition  of  the  State— Explanation  of  the  State  Gov- 
ernment—History of  Ohio— First  settlements  on  the  Ohio— Wars  with 
the  Indians— The  Revolution— Cession  of  the  North-West  Territory — 
Emigration  to  Ohio— St.  Clair's  defeat— Settlement  of  Cincinnati— Or- 
ganization of  the  Territory  of  Ohio— Admission  of  the  State  into  the 
Union— The  war  of  1812-15— Rapid  progress  of  the  State— Troops  fur- 
nished during  the  Civil  War— Description  of  Columbus— The  State 
buildings — Cincinnati — Description  of  the  city — Its  commercial  impor- 
tance— The  river  trade — Manufactures — Pork  packing — History  of  Cin- 
cinnati—Cleveland — The  Lake  trade— Dayton  —Toledo— Sandusky — 
Memoirs  of  Simon  Kenton— Cincinnati  in  1794 Pages  816  to  840 

INDIANA. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe — Topography— Min- 
eral wealth — Climate — Soil  and  agricultural  productions — Commerce 
and  manufactures — Internal  improvements — Educational  system — Penal 


CONTENTS.  23 

and  charitable  Institutions — Eeligious  denominations — Libraries  and 
newspapers — Financial  condition  of  the  State — Explanation  of  the 
State  Government— History  of  Indiana — Settlements  of  the  French 
Missionaries — Indiana  under  French  and  British  rule — The  Revolution 
— Campaign  against  the  British  by  General  Rogers  Clarke — Wars  with 
the  Indians — Efforts  to  introduce  slavery — Battle  of  Tippecanoe — War 
of  1812-15 — Admission  of  Indiana  into  the  Union — Rapid  growth  of  the 
State— Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil  War— Description  of  the  cities 
of  Indianapolis,  Evansville,  Fort  Wayne,  New  Albany,  Madison,  Lafa- 
yette, and  Terre  Haute— Interview  between  General  Harrison  and  Te- 
cumseh— Capture  of  Yincennes Pages  841  to  858 


ILLINOIS. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Topography — The 
prairies — Mineral  wealth — Climate — Soil  and  productions — Commerce 
and  manufactures — Internal  Improvements — The  railroad  system — Edu- 
cational system — Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Religious  denomi- 
nations— Libraries  and  newspapers — Financial  condition  of  the  State — 
Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  Illinois — Early 
French  discoveries — Settlements  of  the  Missionaries — The  Revolution 
—Admission  into  the  Union  as  a  State— The  war  of  1812-15— The  Chi- 
cago Massacre — The  Black  Hawk  War — The  Mormon  troubles — Troops 
furnished  during  the  Civil  War — Description  of  Springfield — Chicago — 
Description  of  the  city — Situation  on  the  Lake — Raising  the  grade  of 
the  city — Public  buildings  and  institutions — Commerce  of  Chicago — 
The  grain  trade — An  elevator  examined — The  pork  trade — Inside  view 
of  a  pork  house — History  of  Chicago — Quincy — Peoria — Galena — The 
lead  mines — Alton — The  Massacre  at  Chicago — Peter  Cartwright  and 
Joe  Smith Pages  859  to  891 


MICHIGAN. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Topography — The 
Northern  and  Southern  Peninsulas — Mineral  wealth — The  Lake  Supe- 
rior Mines — Climate — Soil  and  productions — Commerce  and  manufac- 
tures— Internal  improvements — Educational  system — Penal  and  chari- 
table Institutions — Religious  denominations — Finances — Explanation  of 
the  State  Government — History  of  Michigan — Settlements  of  the 
French  Missionaries — The  French  in  the  Province — Transfer  to  Great 
Britain — Conspiracy  of  Pontiac — Michigan  Territory  organized — War 
of  1812-15 — Surrender  of  Detroit — Massacre  at  the  River  Raisin — Emi- 
gration to  Michigan — Admission  into  the  Union  as  a  State — Troops  fur- 
nished during  the  Civil  War — Description  of  the  cities  of  Lansing,  De- 
troit, Grand  Rapids  and  Adrian — Pontiac's  effort  to  capture  Detroit — 
Massacre  at  the  River  Raisin Pages  898  to  917 


24  CONTENTS. 

WISCONSIN. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— Topography— 
Mineral  wealth— Soil  and  productions— Commerce  and  manufactures — 
Internal  improvements— Educational  system— Penal  and  charitable  In- 
stitutions—Religious denominations— Financial  condition  of  the  State 
—Explanation  of  the  State  Government— History  of  Wisconsin— Dis- 
coveries of  the  French— The  Jesuit  Missionaries- -The  Province  passes 
into  the  hands  of  the  English— Admission  into  the  Union  as  a  State- 
Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil  War — Description  of  Madison — 
Milwaukee — The  "  Cream  City," — Racine — Fond  du  Lac — Oshkosh — 
The  oldest  man  in  the  world .^ Pages  918  to  933 

MINNESOTA. 

Area — Population — Position  on  the  globe — Topographical  sketch  of  the 
State — Falls  of  St.  Anthony — Mineral  wealth — Climate— Resort  for  in- 
valids—Soil and  productions — Manufactures  and  commerce — Internal 
improvements — Educational  system — The  free  schools — Penal  and  be- 
nevolent Institutions — Libraries  and  newspapers — Religious  denomina- 
tions— Financial  condition  of  Minnesota — Explanation  of  the  State 
Government — History  of  Minnesota — First  settled  by  the  Jesuit 
Missionaries — French  settlements — A  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase — 
The  Fur  trade — St.  Paul  founded — Admission  of  the  State  into  the 
Union — Troops  furnished  during  the  Civil  War — St.  Paul— Minnea- 
polis— Winona -Pages  934  to  944 

IOWA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Topographical  sketch 
of  the  State — Mineral  wealth — Climate — Soil  arid  productions — Com- 
merce and  manufactures — Internal  improvements — Educational  system 
— Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Religious  denominations — Finan- 
cial condition  of  the  State—  Explanation  of  the  State  Government — His- 
tory of  Iowa — A  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase— Julien  Dubuque — 
The  Lead  MineS— The  Black  Hawk  War— Settlement  of  Iowa— Ad- 
mission into  the  Union  as  a  State — Des  Moines — Davenport — Dubuque — 
The  Lead  Mines— Burlington— Keokuk— Frontier  justice.  Pages  945  to  962 

MISSOURI. 

Area— Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe— Topographical  sketch 
of  the  State— Mineral  wealth — Climate — Soil  and  productions — Manu- 
factures and  commerce — Internal  improvements — Educational  system 
— Penal  and  charitable  Institutions — Religious  denominations — Li- 
braries and  newspapers — Financial  condition  of  Missouri — Explanation 
of  the  State  Government— History  of  Missouri— First  settled  by  the 
French— Under  Spanish  rule— Restored  to  France— Events  of  the 


CONTENTS.  25 

Revolution — A  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase — Organization  as  a 
Territory — Slavery  agitation — The  "  Missouri  Compromise  " — Admission 
into  the  Union  as  a  State — The  Civil  War — Jefferson  City— Description 
of  St.  Louis — Rapid  growth  of  the  city — Its  Public  buildings  and  In- 
stitutions— Its  commerce  and  manufactures — History  of  St.  Louis — 
Kansas  City — St.  Joseph — Missouri  during  the  war  of  1812-15 

Pages  963  to  981 

ARKANSAS. 

Area— Population  in  1870— Position  on  the  globe — Topography— Mineral 
wealth — Climate— Soil  and  productions — Commerce  and  manufactures — 
Internal  improvements — Educational  system — Penal  and  charitable 
Institutions— Religious  denominations — Financial  condition  of  the  State 
— Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  Arkansas — Dis- 
covered by  De  Soto — *A  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase — Admission  of 
the  State  into  the  Union — Events  of  the  Civil  War — Description  of 
Little  Rock  and  Helena. Pages  982  to  988 

KANSAS. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Topographical  sketch 
of  the  State — Mineral  wealth — Climate — Soil  and  productions — Internal 
improvements — Educational  system — The  Kansas  free  schools — Penal 
and  benevolent  Institutions — Religious  denominations — Financial  condi- 
tion of  the  State — Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of 
Kansas — A  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase — Made  free  soil  by  the 
Missouri  Compromise — Organization  of  the  Territories  of  Kansas  and 
Nebraska — Efforts  to  introduce  slavery  into  Kansas — Struggle  in  Con- 
gress— The  Border  War — Foundation  of  free  soil  settlements — Ad- 
mission into  the  Union  as  a  Free  State — Troops  furnished  during  the 
Civil  War— Topeka — Leavenworth— Lawrence Pages  989  to  1000 

NEBRASKA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  on  the  globe — Topography — Minerals 
— Climate — Soil  and  productions — Internal  improvements — Educational 
system — Finances — Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of 
Nebraska — A  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase — Admission  into  the 
Union  as  a  State — Lincoln — The  new  capital — Omaha — Nebraska  City 

Page*  1001  to  1007 

NEVADA. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Topography — Min- 
eral wealth — The  gold  and  silver  mines  of  Nevada — Climate — Internal 
improvements — Educational  system— Finances— Explanation  of  the 
State  Government — History  of  Nevada — Discovery  of  silver — Carson 
City— Virginia  City Pages  1008  to  1015 


26  CONTENTS. 

CALIFORNIA. 

Area — Population  in  1870— Position  upon  the  globe— Topographical  sketch 
of  the  State— Mineral  wealth  of  California— Climate— Soil  and  produc- 
tions—Commerce— Manufactures— Internal  improvements— Education- 
al system— Penal  and  charitable  institutions— Religious  denominations 
— Libraries  and  newspapers — Financial  condition — Explanation  of  the 
State  Government— History  of  California— Discovered  and  settled  by 
the  Spaniards— The  Missions— Becomes  a  part  of  Mexico— Efforts  to 
throw  off  the  Mexican  yoke— The  American  settlers  take  up  arras— The 
war  with  Mexico — Aquisition  of  California — Discovery  of  gold — Enor- 
mous emigration — Admission  into  the  Union  as  a  State — Early  disor- 
ders— The  "  Vigilance  Committees  " — Description  of  Sacramento — San 
Francisco — A  peculiar  city — The  Sand  Hills — Rapid  growth  of  San 
Francisco — Prosperity  of  the  city — Its  public  buildings  and  institutions 
— The  Chinese  Marter — Commerce  of  San  Francisco — History  of  the 
city— San  Jos6— San  Francisco  in  1848-9— The  "Vigilance  Committee  " 

Pages  1016  to  1052 

OREGON. 

Area — Population  in  1870 — Position  upon  the  globe — Topographical 
sketch  of  the  State — Mineral  wealth — Climate — Soil  and  productions — 
Commerce — Internal  improvements — Educational  system — Penal  and 
benevolent  Institutions — Religious  denominations — Financial  condition 
of  the  State — Explanation  of  the  State  Government — History  of  Oregon 
— Discovery  of  the  Columbian  River — Expedition  of  Lewis  and  Clark 
— Astoria— Boundary  disputes  with  Great  Britain— The  United  States 
abandon  their  claim — Admission  of  Oregon  into  the  Union  as  a  State — 
Description  of  Salem— Portland Pages  1053  to  1062 


PART   VI. 

THE   TERRITORIES. 

ALASKA. 

General  description  of  the  Territory— Practical  value  of  the  purchase- 
History  of  Alaska— Description  of  Sitka Pages  1065  to  1070 

ARIZONA. 

Topographical  sketch  of  the  Territory— Its  mineral  wealth— Capacity  for 
agriculture— History  of  Arizona— Description  of  Tucson.  Pages  1071  to  1074 

COLORADO. 

Description  of  the  physical  features  of  Colorado— The  Rocky  Mountains' 
—Climate— Great  mineral  wealth  of  the  Territory— History  of  Colorado 
—Description  of  Denver  City Pages  1075  to  1080 


CONTENTS.  2t 

DAKOTA. 

Topographical  sketch  of  the  Territory — Its  magnificent  river  system — 
Capacity  for  stock  raising  and  agriculture — The  Pioneer  Schools — His- 
tory of  Dakota — Description  of  Yancton Pages  1081  to  1085 

IDAHO. 

Description  of  the  topographical  features  of  the  Territory — Its  great  min- 
eral wealth — Capacity  for  agriculture — History  of  Idaho — Description 
of  Boise  City Pages  1086  to  1089 

INDIAN  TERRITORY. 

General  description  of  the  Territory — Description  of  the  Indian  inhabi- 
tants and  the  system  of  Government — Efforts  to  organize  the  Territory 

Pages  1090  to  1091 

MONTANA. 

Topographical  sketch  of  Montana — A  delightful  climate — Capacity  for 
agriculture  and  stock  raising — Mineral  wealth — History  of  Montana — 
Its  rapid  growth — Description  of  Virginia  City. Pages  1092  to  1096 

NEW  MEXICO. 

Topographical  sketch  of  New  Mexico — Capacity  of  the  Territory  for  agri- 
culture— Stock  raising — Undeveloped  mineral  wealth — Hostility  of  the 
Indians — History  of  New  Mexico — Description  of  Santa  Fe". 

Pages  1097  to  1100 
UTAH. 

Description  of  the  physical  features  of  the  Territory — The  mountain 
system — The  Great  Basin — The  Great  Salt  Lake — Irrigation  necessary 
to  the  production  of  crops— What  has  been  done  for  agriculture — Mine- 
ral resources — History  of  the  Territory — Salt  Lake  City — The  Mormon 
capital Pages  1101  to  1109 

WASHINGTON. 

Topographical  sketch  of  the  Territory — The  two  great  divisions — Climate 
— Agriculture— Mineral  resources — The  lumber  trade — The  Columbia 
River — History  of  the  Territory — Description  of  Olympia. 

Pages  1110  to  1115 

WYOMING. 

Description  of  the  physical  features  of  the  Territory — Agriculture — Great 
mineral  wealth — The  Pacific  Railway — History  of  Wyoming — Descrip- 
tion of  Cheyenne Pages  1116  to  1118 


PART   I. 
THE  UNITED   STATES  OF  AMERICA. 


THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


THE    AMERICAN    CONTINENT. 

THE  Continent  of  America,  though  not  discovered  until  a  very  late 
period  in  the  history  of  the  world,  is  the  second  in  size  of  the  great 
natural  divisions  of  the  earth.  It  extends  from  Point  Barrow  (on  the 
north),  in  latitude  71°  24'  N.,  to  Cape  Froward,  on  the  Straits  of 
Magellan  (on  the  south),  in  latitude  53°  53'  7"  S.*  It  is  known 
that  the  extreme  northern  lands  of  America  extend  beyond  the 
seventy-eighth  degree  of  North  latitude,  and  the  islands  of  Terra  del 
Fuego  prolong  the  land  two  or  three  degrees  southward  of  the  main 
land ;  but  as  these  form  no  practical  portions  of  our  great  division  of 
the  globe,  we  shall  pass  them  by  without  further  discussion.  The 
mainland,  which  is  alone  embraced  in  our  estimate,  is  10,500  English 
miles  in  length,  and  includes  every  variety  of  climate,  soil,  produc- 
tion, race,  and  natural  formation  known,  covering  as  it  does  an  area 
of  about  14,950,000  square  miles.  The  Continent,  taking  this  esti- 
mate as  our  guide,  is  four  times  larger  than  Europe,  one-third  larger 
than  Africa,  and  one-half  as  large  as  Asia,  including  Australia  and 
Polynesia.  Its  extreme  breadth,  north  of  the  Equator,  is  between 
Cape  Canso,  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  Cape  Lookout,  in  Oregon,  a  dis- 
tance of  3100  miles,  and  very  near  the  forty-fifth  parallel  of  North 
latitude.  South  of  the  Equator  it  attains  its  greatest  breadth  between 

*  This  calculation  does  not  include  the  regions  north  of  Point  Barrow,  or 
the  Archipelago  of  Terra  del  Fuego. 

31 


32  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Cape  St.  Roque,  in  Brazil,  and  Cape  Parina,  in  Peru,  a  distance  of 
3250  miles,  and  between  the  fourth  and  seventh  parallel  of  South 
latitude. 

The  physical  features  of  this  great  Continent  are  among  the  most 
remarkable  and  interesting  in  the  world.  Constituting  as  it  does 
about  three-tenths  of  the  dry  land  upon  the  surface  of  the  globe,  it  is, 
in  general,  a  region  of  great  fertility.  With  the  exception  of  about 
one-seventh,  the  entire  Continent  is  susceptible  of  cultivation,  and  in 
its  natural  growths  it  is  one  of  the  most  favored  lands  in  the  world. 
Its  mineral  resources  are  vast  and  inexhaustible,  and  embrace  nearly 
every  geological  formation  known  to  science.  On  the  west  side,  the 
Continent  is  traversed  by  a  vast  range  of  mountains,  ten  thousand 
miles  in  length,  stretching  from  Point  Barrow  on  the  north,  to  the 
Straits  of  Magellan  on  the  south,  and  rearing  their  lofty  summits  far 
above  the  region  of  perpetual  snow.  The  rivers,  bays,  and  lakes  of 
America  are  the  most  magnificent  and  extensive  in  the  world,  and 
afford  commercial  advantages  of  the  highest  order. 

The  Continent  consists  of  two  great  peninsulas,  known  as  North 
America  and  South  America,  connected  by  an  isthmus  called  Central 
America.  The  relative  importance  of  its  great  divisions  may  be  seen 
from  the  following  table,  in  which  North  and  Central  America  are 
counted  as  one  division  : 

English  Square  Miles. 

North  America, 7,400,000 

South  America, 6,500,000 

Islands, 150,000 

Greenland,  and  the  islands  connected  with  it,    .  900,000 

Total, 14,950,000 

As  it  is  not  our  purpose  to  devote  any  portion  of  this  work  to  the 
other  divisions  of  the  Continent,  we  pass  at  once  to  a  brief  considera- 
tion of  the  division  of 

NOKTH    AMERICA. 

Including  Central  America,  this  great  division  of  the  Continent 
lies  between  the  sixth  parallel  of  North  latitude  and  the  Arctic 
Ocean.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Arctic  Ocean,  on  the 
east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  south  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and 
South  America,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Its  length 
on  the  Atlantic  side,  from  Hudson's  Straits  to  the  Florida  Channel, 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  33 

following  the  indentations  of  the  coast,  is  about  4800  miles,  and  from 
thence  to  Panama  about  4500  more,  making  a  total  length  of  9300 
miles.  On  the  Pacific  side,  the  length,  counting  the  coasts  of  the 
Gulf  of  California,  is  10,500  miles.  The  north  and  northeast  shores 
are  reckoned  at  about  3000  miles,  which  gives  a  total  coast  line  of 
about  22,800  miles.  *  v 

According  to  Professor  De  Bow,  the  Superintendent  of  the  Seventh 
Census  of  the  United  States,  North  America  comprises  an  area  of 
8,377,648  square  miles,  an  estimate  which  exceeds  that  already  given 
by  us.  It  is  subdivided  by  him  as  follows : 

Square  Miles. 

British  America, 3,050,398 

United  States 3,306,865 

Mexico 1,038,834 

Russian  America,* 394,000 

Danish  America  (Greenland) 384,000 

Central  America, 203,551 

8,377,648 

The  country  lying  north  of  the  United  States,  and  known  as 
British  America,  extends  from  the  States  to  the  Arctic  Ocean.  It  is 
settled  thickly  along  its  southern  and  eastern  borders,  but  the  re- 
mainder is  a  vast,  untamed  region,  too  cold  for  colonization  by 
Europeans,  and  inhabited  only  by  a  hardy  race  of  Indians,  and  by  a 
few  whites  engaged  in  the  fur  trade.  The  country  along  the  southern 
and  eastern  borders,  however,  is  of  the  greatest  importance.  It  pos- 
sesses a  population  of  over  three  millions,  and  will  compare  favor- 
ably in  its  civilization  and  material  prosperity  with  the  States 
adjoining  it. 

South  of  the  United  States  is  a  vast  region,  nominally  a  Republic, 
but  in  reality  a  country  afflicted  with  chronic  anarchy,  called  Mexico. 
Its  people  number  nearly  eight  millions,  and  consist  of  a  mixture  of 
Spanish  and  Indians.  They  are  but  little  more  than  half  civilized, 
and  are  utterly  incapable  of  conducting  the  government  or  developing 
the  resources  of  their  country,  naturally  one  of  the  richest  and  most 
productive  in  the  world. 

*  Now  a  part  of  the  United  States,  and  known  as  Alaska^ 
3 


THE    UNITED    STATES    OF    AMERICA 

Is  the  name  given  to  the  great  and  powerful  Republic,  occupying 
tlu  central  portion  of  North  America,  and  lying  between  Mexico  and 
Br  tish  America.  The  Republic  lies  between  latitude  24°  30'  and 
49°  N.,  and  between  longitude  66°  50'  and  124°  30'  W.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  British  America,  and  is  partly  separated 
from  that  country  by  the  River  Saint  Lawrence,  and  Lakes  Superior, 
Huron,  Saint  Clair,  Erie,  and  Ontario ;  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  ;  on  the  south  by  Mexico  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  and  on  the 
west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  has  recently  added  to  its  territory 
that  country  formerly  known  as  Russian  America,  now  called  Alaska, 
lying  along  the  Pacific  and  Arctic  Oceans,  and  between  the  fifty- 
eighth  and  seventy-second  parallels  of  North  latitude,  and  the  one 
hundred  and  fortieth,  and  one  hundred  and  seventieth  degrees  of 
West  longitude. 

DIMENSIONS. 

This  vast  region  covers  an  area  of  3,306,865  square  miles,  and 
comprises  nearly  one-half  of  North  America.  Its  extreme  length, 
from  Cape  Cod,  on  the  Atlantic,  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  is  about  2600 
miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  Madawaska,  in  Maine,  to  Key 
West,  in  Florida,  is  about  1600  miles.  Its  northern  frontier  line 
measures  3303  miles,  and  its  southern  line  1456  miles.  Following 
the  indentations  of  the  shore,  its  coast  line  on  the  Atlantic  is  6861 
miles,  on  the  Pacific  2281  miles,  and  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  3467 
miles,  making  a  total  coast  line  of  12,609  miles. 

The  shores  of  the  Pacific  are  bold  and  rocky,  and  are  marked  by 
comparatively  few  indentations.  The  principal  are  San  Francisco 
Bay  and  the  Straits  of  San  Juan  de  Fuca.  On,  the  Atlantic  and 
Gulf  coasts,  the  shore  is  generally  low,  and  deeply  indented  by 
numerous  inlets,  the  principal  of  which  are  Passamaquoddy,  Fench- 
man's,  Penobscot,  Casco,  Massachusetts,  Buzzard's,  New  York,  Rari- 
tan,  Delaware,  and  Chesapeake  Bays,  and  Long  Island,  Pamlico,  and 
Albemarle  Sounds  on  the  Atlantic;  and  Tampa,  Appalachee,  Appa- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  35 

lachicola,  Pensacola,  Mobile,  Black,  Barataria,  Atcbafalaya,  Ver- 
milion, Galveston,  Matagorda,  Aransas,  and  Corpus  Christ!  Bays, 
on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 


POLITICAL    DIVISIONS. 

The  Republic  consists  of  thirty-seven  States  and  nine  Territories. 
These  are  the  States  of  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massa- 
chusetts, Rhode  Island,  Connecticut,  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Penn- 
sylvania, Delaware,  Maryland,  Virginia,  West  Virginia,  North 
Carolina,  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  Louisiana, 
Florida,  Texas,  Arkansas,  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illi- 
nois, Missouri,  Iowa,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Kansas,  Ne- 
braska, Nevada,  California,  and  Oregon ;  and  the  Territories  of 
Arizona,  Dacotah,  Idaho,  Montana,  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Utah, 
Wyoming,  and  Washington.  Besides  these  are  the  Indian  Territory 
and  Alaska. 

For  convenience,  the  States  are  usually  subdivided  as  follows : 

THE  NEW  ENGLAND  STATES  : — Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont, 
Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut.  6. 

THE  MIDDLE  STATES  : — New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania, 
Delaware.  4. 

THE  SOUTHERN  STATES  : — Maryland,  Virginia,  North  Carolina, 
South  Carolina,  Georgia,  Florida,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  Louisiana, 
Texas.  10. 

THE  WESTERN  STATES  : — Arkansas,  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Ohio, 
Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Iowa,  Missouri, 
Kansas,  California,  Oregon,  Nevada,  Nebraska,  West  Virginia.  17. 

POPULATION. 

The  following  table  will  show  the  relative  size  and  importance  of 
the  States  and  Territories,  together  with  their  population,  and  the 
date  of  their  admission  into  the  Union  : 


36 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  37 


RIVERS. 

The  topographical  features  of  the  United  States  are  varied  and  in- 
teresting, consisting  of  immense  chains  of  mountains,  numerous  rivers, 
bays,  and  lakes,  and  vast  plains  inhabited  only  by  savages  and  wild 
beasts.  The  majority  of  the  bays  along  its  coasts  are  the  outlets  of 
the  great  rivers  of  the  Republic.  These  rivers  may  be  divided  into 
four  distinct  classes,  viz : 

I.  The  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries. 

II.  The  rivers  which  rise  in  the  Alleghany  chain  and  flow  into  the 
Atlantic  Ocean. 

III.  The  rivers  rising  in  the  Southern  States,  and  flowing  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico. 

IV.  The  rivers  which  flow  into  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  rivers  of  the  first  class  are  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Wiscon- 
sin, Iowa,  Illinois,  Ohio,  Yazoo,  Minnesota,  Des  Moines,  Arkansas, 
and  Red.  , 

Those  of  the  second  class  are  the  Penobscot,  Kennebec,  Connecti- 
cut, Hudson,  Delaware,  Susquehanna,  Potomac,  James,  Chowan, 
Roanoke,  Pamlico  or  Tar,  Neuse,  Cape  Fear,  Great  Pedee,  San  tee, 
Savannah,  and  Altamaha. 

Those  of  the  third  class  are  the  Appalachicola,  Mobile,  Sabine, 
Trinity,  Brazos,  Colorado,  and  Rio  Grande. 

Those  of  the  fourth  class  are  the  Columbia,  San  Joaquin,  and  the 
great  Colorado  of  the  West,  the  last  of  which  flows  into  the  Gulf  of 
California. 

THE    MISSISSIPPI    KIVER 

Is  the  most  important  stream  in  the  United  States,  and,  together  with 
its  main  branch,  the  Missouri,  is  the  longest  in  the  world.  Its  name 
is  derived  from  an  Indian  word,  signifying  "  The  Great  Father  of 
Waters/'  The  Mississippi  proper  is  the  smaller  branch  (the  Mis- 
souri reaching  farther  back  into  the  interior),  and  it  is  somewhat  sin- 
gular that  it  should  have  given  its  name  to  the  whole  stream.  It 
rises  in  Itasca  Lake,  in  the  State  of  Minnesota,  in  a  region  known  as 
the  Hauteurs  de  Terre,  1680  feet  above  tide  level,  in  latitude  47° 
10'  K,  and  longitude  94°  55'  W.  From  this  point  it  flows  in  a 
generally  southward  direction,  emptying  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in 
latitude  29°  N.  Its  total  length,  from  its  source  to  its  mouth,  is- 
estimated  at  2986  miles. 


38  THE     GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  main  branch  is  called  the  Missouri  River  above  the  point  of 
its  junction  with  the  smaller  branch.  The  two  rivers  unite  a  short 
distance  above  the  city  of  St.  Louis.  Under  the  present  heading  it  is 
our  purpose  to  treat  of  the  Mississippi  proper,  reserving  the  Missouri 
for  discussion  farther  on. 

The  Mississippi  constitutes  the  great  centre  of  a  gigantic  system  of 
rivers,  all  of  which  unite  in  one  grand  channel  and  empty  their  waters 
into  the  Gulf.  The  area  drained  by  them  comprises  a  very  large  por- 
tion of  the  interior  of  North  America.  The  tributaries  of  the  great 
river  find  their  way  to  it  through  rich  and  populous  States,  and  be- 
tween its  source  and  its  mouth  it  collects  all  the  waters  (with  the 
single  exception  of  those  rivers  flowing  directly  into  the  Gulf)  of  the 
immense  region  lying  between  the  Alleghany  and  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. This  region  is  usually  known  as  the  Mississippi  Valley.  Its 
southern  boundary  is  the  Gulf,  and  its  northern  limit  the  high  hills 
in  which  rise  the  streams  flowing  into  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  the  lakes 
of  British  America.  According  to  Charles  Ellet,  this  region  covers 
an  area  of  1,226,600  square  miles,  above  the  mouth  of  the  Red 
River. 

The  river,  with  its  tributaries  reaching  far  back  into  the  neighbor- 
ing States  and  Territories,  furnishes  a  system  of  inland  navigation 
unequalled  by  any  in  the  world.  Steamers  ascend  the  Mississippi 
itself  from  its  mouth  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  in  Minnesota,  about 
2200  miles,  and  above  the  falls  the  river  is  navigable  for  a  consider- 
able distance.  In  1858  a  steamboat  succeeded  in  ascending  the 
stream  to  near  the  forty-ninth  degree  of  north  latitude.  The  Missouri 
is  navigable  to  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains;  the  Ohio,  to  its 
head,  at  Pittsburg,  Pennsylvania ;  and  the  Arkansas  and  the  Red, 
each  for  more  than  1000  miles.  By  means  of  the  Cumberland  and 
Tennessee  Rivers,  the  mountains  of  East  Tennessee  have  water  trans- 
portation to  the  Gulf;  and  the  Illinois  River  steamers  penetrate  to 
the  country  just  back  of  Lake  Michigan. 

These  rivers  are  all  more  or  less  crowded  with  steamers  and  other 
craft,  plying  a  trade  in  comparison  with  which  the  fabled  wealth  of 
Tyre  sinks  into  insignificance. 

Numerous  other  branches  of  less  extent  empty  into  the  main  river, 
all  of  which  are  navigable  to  a  greater  or  less  degree.  Below  the 
mouth  of  the  Red  River,  the  main  stream  is  divided  into  numerous 
branches,  which  are  called  bayous.  Some  of  these,  after  pursuing  an 
erratic  course,  find  their  way  back  to  the  Mississippi,  while  others 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  39 

follow  an  independent  course  to  the  Gulf.  The  most  important  of 
these  bayous  is  the  Atchafalaya.  The  country  lying  between  this 
stream  (after  its  departure  from  the  great  river),  the  Mississippi,  and 
the  Gulf,  is  known  as  the  Delta  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  Delta  is  about  200  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  width  of 
75  miles.  It  comprises  an  area  of  15,000  square  miles,  and  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  alluvion,  the  depth  of  which  is  estimated  at  1000 
feet.  "  The  debris  carried  along  with  the  flood  is  principally  de- 
posited near  the  borders  of  the  stream,  the  necessary  result  being  that 
these  portions  have  been  raised  to  a  much  higher  level  than  the  ad- 
joining lands.  In  some  places  the  slope  is  as  much  as  eighteen  feet 
in  a  distance  of  a  few  miles.  The  interior  consists  of  vast  swamps 
covered  with  trees,  of  which  the  tops  only  are  visible  during  the 
floods.  The  river,  for  almost  fifty  miles  from  its  mouth,  runs  nearly 
parallel  with  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  from  which  it  is  separated  at  par- 
ticular places  by  an  embankment  only  half  a  mile  across." 

The  alluvion  plain  extends  above  the  Delta  to  a  formation  called 
the  Chains,  30  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  a  distance  esti- 
mated at  a  little  over  500  miles.  The  average  breadth  of  this  plain, 
which  has  been  formed  by  the  river  itself,  is  about  fifty  miles,  and  its 
total  area,  including  the  Delta,  about  31,200  square  miles.  Its 
height,  at  its  northern  extremity,  according  to  Prof.  Charles  Ellet,  jr., 
is  275  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  descends  this  plain  to 
the  Gulf  at  the  rate  of  about  eight  inches  per  mile.  Its  average  de- 
scent along  its  entire  course  is  about  six  inches  to  the  mile. 

The  river  is  very  tortuous,  especially  after  passing  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio.  Its  curves  are  immense,  often  traversing  a  distance  of  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  miles,  in  a  half  circle,  around  a  point  of  land  only  a 
mile,  or  half  a  mile  in  width.  Sometimes,  during  the  heavy  freshets, 
the  stream  breaks  through  the  narrow  tongue  of  land,  forming  a  "cut- 
off,"  which  frequently  becomes  a  new  and  permanent  channel,  leaving 
the  old  bed  a  "  lake,"  as  it  is  called  by  the  boatmen.  But  for  the 
height  of  the  banks,  and  the  great  depth  of  the  river,  the  formation 
of  these  "  cut-offs  "  would  be  quite  frequent,  and  the  stream  would  be 
constantly  changing  its  course.  Attempts  to  form  "cut-offs"  by  arti- 
ficial means  have  generally  failed.  The  river  is  remarkable  for  the 
constancy  with  which  it  maintains  its  average  breadth  of  about  3000 
feet.  It  rarely  exceeds  or  falls  short  of  this  breadth  except  in  the 
curves,  which  frequently  broaden  to  near  a  mile  and  a  quarter.  The 
current  is  sluggish,  except  at  high  water,  its  depth  at  ordinary  stages 


40  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

being  75  feet  at  the  head  of  the  plain  we  have  described,  and  120  feet 
at  its  foot.  Were  the  stream  straighter,  its  current,  which  is  now 
checked .  by  the  bends,  would  no  doubt  be  too  swift  for  navigation, 
and  commerce  would  suffer. 

"  One  of  the  most  important  facts  in  regard  to  the  Mississippi  is, 
that  it  flows  from  north  to  south.  A  river  that  runs  east  or  west  has 
no  variety  of  climate  or  productions  from  its  source  to  its  mouth. 
The  trapper  and  husbandman  descending  the  '  Father  of  Waters/ 
constantly  meet  with  a  change  of  climate ;  they  take  with  them  their 
furs  and  cereal  grains,  the  products  of  the  North,  to  exchange  for  the 
sugar  and  tropical  fruits  that  are  gathered  on  the  banks  below. 
Again,  the  floods  produced  by  winter  snows  and  spring  rains  cannot 
be  simultaneously  discharged.  The  course  of  the  stream  being  from 
north  to  south,  spring  advances  in  a  reverse  direction,  and  releases  in 
succession  the  waters  of  the  lower  valley,  then  of  the  middle  section, 
and  finally  the  remote  sources  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries. 
It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  the  waters  from  this  last-named  region  do 
not  reach  the  Delta  until  upwards  of  a  month  after  the  inundation 
there  has  been  abating.  The  swell  usually  commences  toward  the 
end  of  February,  and  continues  to  rise  by  unequal  diurnal  accretions 
till  the  1st  of  June,  when  it  again  begins  to  subside.  No  experience 
will  enable  a  person  to  anticipate,  with  any  approach  to  certainty,  the 
elevation  of  the  flood  in  any  given  year.  In  some  seasons  the  waters 
do  not  rise  above  their  channels ;  in  others,  the  entire  lower  valley  of 
the  Mississippi  is  submerged.  Embankments,  called  levees,  have  been 
raised  from  five  to  ten  feet  high  on  both  sides  of  the  stream,  extend- 
ing many  miles  above  and  below  New  Orleans.  By  this  means  the 
river  is  restrained  within  its  proper  limits,  except  at  the  greatest 
freshets,  when  the  waters  sometimes  break  over,  causing  great  destruc- 
tion of  property,  and  even  loss  of  life.  The  average  height  of  the 
flood,  from  the  Delta  to  the  junction  of  the  Missouri,  is  about  15 
feet ;  at  the  mouth  of  the  latter  river  it  is  25  feet ;  below  the  entrance 
of  the  Ohio,  the  rise  is  often  50  feet ;  at  Natchez,  it  seldom  exceeds  30 
feet;  and  at  New  Orleans  is  about  12  feet.  This  diminution  is  sup- 
posed to  result  from  the  drainage  through  the  Atchafalaya,  Bayou  La 
Fourche,  and  other  channels  breaking  from  the  lower  part  of  the  river 
to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  flood  often  carries  away  large  masses  of 
earth  with  trees,  which  frequently  become  embedded  in  the  mud  at 
one  end,  while  the  other  floats  near  the  surface,  forming  snags  and 
sawyers."  These  snags  are  very  dangerous  to  steamers  navigating 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  41 

the  river,  and  formerly  caused  many  terrible  accidents.  Recently 
they  have  been  removed  to  a  great  extent  by  snag-boats  and  improved 
machinery. 

The  Mississippi  empties  itself  into  the  Gulf  through  several  mouths, 
which  are  termed  Passes.  The  navigation  is  here  very  seriously  ob- 
structed by  numerous  bars,  formed  by  the  gradual  deposit  of  the  sedi- 
ment with  which  the  water  is  heavily  charged.  These  render  it 
impossible  for  vessels  of  the  largest  class  to  reach  New  Orleans.  Over 
these  bars  there  is  a  depth  of  water,  varying  greatly  at  different  times, 
and  often  measuring  only  fifteen  feet.  Steam  tugs  can  force  vessels 
drawing  two  or  three  feet  more  than  the  actual  depth,  through  the 
soft  mud  of  the  river  bed.  Repeated  efforts  have  been  made  to 
deepen  the  passes  by  dredging,  but  the  channel  has  filled  up  again  so 
rapidly  as  to  make  all  such  efforts  futile.  It  was  once  attempted  to 
deepen  the  South  West  Pass  (the  principal  mouth)  by  driving  piles 
along  each  side.  It  was  thought  that  by  thus  confining  the  stream 
within  a  limited  width,  it  wrould  of  itself  excavate  a  deep  channel. 
The  effect,  however,  was  to  force  the  bulk  of  the  flow  through  another 
mouth  called  Pass  a  1'Outre,  which  for  the  time  became  a  better 
channel  than  the  South  West  Pass. 

The  navigation  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  is  broken  in  several  places 
by  falls  and  rapids,  of  which  the  principal  are  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  above  St.  Paul,  Minnesota.* 

The  Mississippi  River  was  discovered  by  Hernando  de  Soto,  in 
June  1541.  He  reached  it,  it  is  supposed,  at  a  point  not  far  below 
the  present  town  of  Helena  in  Arkansas.  In  1673,  Marquette  and 
Jolliet  descended  the  stream  to  within  three  days'  journey  of  its 
mouth ;  and  in  1682,  La  Salle  passed  through  one  of  its  mouths  to 
the  Gulf,  and  took  possession  of  the  country  along  its  shores,  in  the 
name  of  the  King  of  France.  In  1699,  Iberville  built  a  fort  on  the 
river;  in  1703,  a  settlement  was  made  on  the  Yazoo,  a  tributary,  and 
called  St.  Peter's;  and  in  1718,  the  city  of  New  Orleans  was  laid  out. 
The  levees  of  the  lower  Mississippi  were  begun  in  that  year,  and 
finished  in  front  of  New  Orleans  about  1728.  The  subject  of  the 
free  navigation  of  the  river  occupied  the  earliest  attention  of  the 
United  States,  and  was  the  principal  cause  of  the  acquisition  of  Loui- 
siana, by  purchase  from  France.  The  battle  of  New  Orleans  (as  it  is 
called)  was  fought  on  its  banks  on  the  8th  of  January  1815.  During 

*  The  prominent  points  along  the  river  will  be  described  in  the  chapters 
relating  to  the  States. 


42  THE     GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  late  war,  the  Confederates  undertook  to  close  the  navigation  of 
the  river,  and  succeeded  in  doing  so  for  more  than  two  years,  when 
the  control  of  it  was  wrested  from  them  by  the  Union  forces.  A 
number  of  severe  engagements  were  fought  on  its  banks,  the  principal 
of  which  were  the  battle  of  Belmont,  in  Missouri,  and  the  conflicts 
at  Island  No.  10,  Fort  Pillow,  Ne\v  Madrid,  Memphis,  Vicksburg, 
Port  Hudson,  Grand  Gulf,  Baton  Rouge,  and  Forts  Jackson  and  St. 
Philip  below  New  Orleans. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  are,  on  the  east,  the 
Wisconsin,  Illinois,  Ohio,  and  Yazoo ;  on  the  west,  the  Minnesota, 
Des  Moines,  Missouri,  Arkansas,  and  Red  Rivers. 

The  total  value  of  the  steamboats  engaged  in  trade  on  the  Missis- 
sippi and  its  tributaries,  is  estimated  at  over  $6,000,000. 

THE    MISSOURI    RIVER. 

Though  commonly  regarded  as  the  principal  tributary  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, the  Missouri  is  in  reality  the  main  stream,  since  it  is  longer 
and  of  greater  volume  than  the  other  river.  It  derives  its  name 
from  an  Indian  word  signifying  "  Mud  River."  It  rises  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  the  Territory  of  Montana,  in  latitude  45°  N., 
longitude  110°  30'  W.  The  springs  in  which  it  has  its  source  are 
not  more  than  a  mile  distant  from  the  headwaters  of  the  great  Colum- 
bia River,  which  flows  into  the  Pacific  'Ocean. 

The  Missouri  proper  begins  at  the  confluence  of  three  small  streams 
of  about  equal  length — the  Jefferson's,  Madison's,  and  Gallatin's — 
which  run  nearly  parallel  to  each  other.  For  the  first  500  miles  of 
its  course,  the  Missouri  flows  nearly  north,  then  turning  slightly  to 
the  E.  N.  E.,  it  continues  in  that  direction  until  it  is  joined  by  the 
White  Earth  River,  in  latitude  48°  20'  N.  It  then  bends  to  the 
southeast,  and  continues  in  that  general  direction  until  it  joins  the 
Mississippi,  near  St.  Louis. 

Four  hundred  and  eleven  miles  from  its  source,  the  river  passes 
through  what  is  called  "  The  Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains."  This 
pass  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  on  the  Continent.  For  nearly  six 
miles  the  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  water's  edge  to  a  height 
of  1200  feet.  The  river  is  confined  to  a  width  of  only  one  hundred 
and  fifty  yards,  and  for  the  first  three  miles  there  is  only  one  point  on 
which  a  man  could  obtain  a  foothold  between  the  rocks  and  the  water. 
One  hundred  and  ten  miles  below  the  "Gates"  are  the  "Great  Falls  of 
the  Missouri,"  which,  after  those  of  the  Niagara,  are  the  most  magnifi- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  43 

cent  in  America.  These  falls  consist  of  four  cataracts,  respectively 
of  26,  47,  19,  and  87  feet  perpendicular  descent,  separated  by  rapids. 
They  extend  for  a  length  of  sixteen  and  a  half  miles,  and  the  total 
descent  in  that  distance  is  357  feet.  The  falls  are  2575  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  is  navigable  to  them,  though  steamers 
do  not  usually  ascend  higher  than  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Stone 
River. 

The  Missouri  is  said  to  be  3096  miles  long  from  its  mouth  to  its 
source,  though  it  is  believed  that  this  estimate  is  a  little  too  large. 
Add  to  this  the  length  of  the  lower  Mississippi,  1253  miles,  and  the 
total  distance  from  the  Gulf  to  the  source  of  the  Missouri,  is  4349 
miles — making  it  the  longest  stream  in  the  world.  It  is  generally 
turbid  and  swift,  and  upon  entering  the  Mississippi,  pours  a  dense 
volume  of  mud  into  that  until  then  clear  stream,  and  forever  changes 
its  hue.  At  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  the  water  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi refuses  to  mingle  with  that  of  its  muddy  rival,  and  the  current 
of  the  Missouri  may  be  easily  distinguished  for  some  distance  below. 

There  is  no  important  obstacle  to  navigation  below  the  Great  Falls, 
except  that  during  the  long  hot  summers  the  water  is  apt  to  be  too 
low  for  any  but  the  smallest  steamers,  owing  to  the  fact  that  in  its 
upper  course  the  river  passes  through  an  open,  dry  country,  where  it 
is  subject  to  excessive  evaporation.  Below  the  Falls  it  is  bordered 
by  a  narrow  alluvial  valley,  very  fertile,  and  capable  of  being  highly 
cultivated.  Back  of  this  valley  lie  extensive  prairies.  The  river  is 
half  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  in  some  places  much  wider.  It 
receives  all  the  great  rivers  rising  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  with  the  single  exception  of  the  Arkansas  River,  and  the 
majority  of  the  streams  between  its  own  bed  and  the  Mississippi. 

For  the  most  part  it  flows  through  a  savage  or  thinly  settled  region, 
and  has  but  few  important  cities  or  towns  on  its  banks.  The  princi- 
pal of  these  are  Omaha  City,  in  Nebraska,  Atchison  and  Leaven  worth, 
in  Kansas,  and  St.  Joseph,  Kansas  City,  Lexington,  Booneville,  Jef- 
ferson City,  and  St.  Charles,  in  Missouri. 

Its  principal  tributaries  are  the  Yellow  Stone,  Little  Missouri,  Big 
Cheyenne,  (greater)  White  Earth,  Ni-obrarah,  Platte  or  Nebraska, 
Kansas  and  Osage,  on  the  right;  and  the  Milk,  Dacotah,  Big  Sioux, 
Little  Sioux,  and  Grand,  on  the  left.  These  streams,  with  the  Misr 
souri,  drain  the  entire  country  north  of  St.  Louis,  and  between  the 
Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  Mountains — an  area  of  519,400  square 
miles. 


44  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

THE    OHIO    KIVER 

Is  the  first  great  tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  flowing  into  it  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  It  was  called  by  the  early  French  settlers 
La  Belle  Rivttre  (the  beautiful  river),  and  its  Indian  name  is  said  to 
have  a  similar  meaning.  It  is  noted  for  the  uniform  smoothness  of 
its  current,  and  the  beauty  of  the  valley  through  which  it  flows.  It 
is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela 
Rivers,  at  Pittsburg,  Pennsylvania.  It  flows  in  a  generally  W.  S. 
W.  direction,  separating  the  States  of  West  Virginia  and  Ken- 
tucky from  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois,  and  empties  into  the  Missis- 
sippi at  Cairo,  Illinois,  1216  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
total  length  of  the  Ohio  is  950  miles.  The  length  of  the  valley 
through  which  it  flows  is  only  614  miles,  the  windings  of  the  river 
making  up  the  difference.  Its  average  breadth  is  a  little  over  600 
yards.  Its  elevation  at  Pittsburg  is  680  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  at  Cincinnati,  414  feet,  and  at  Cairo,  324  feet,  giving  an  average 
descent  of  about  5  inches  to  the  mile.  The  current  is  placid  and  uni- 
form, having  a  medium  force  of  about  3  miles  an  hour.  Like  all  the 
western  rivers,  it  is  subject  to  great  variations  of  depth.  In  the  win- 
ter and  spring  it  is  very  high,  the  spring  rise  being  sometimes  as  great 
as  60  feet;  and  in  the  summer  it  is  so  low  that  it  may  be  forded  in 
many  places  above  Cincinnati.  The  writer,  when  a  lad,  has  fre- 
quently waded  from  the  Virginia  to  the  Ohio  shore.  At  high  water, 
steamers  of  the  first  class  ascend  to  Pittsburg,  but  at  low  water  only 
the  lightest  draft  vessels  can  navigate  it,  and  even  these  do  so  at  a 
constant  risk  of  running  on  a  sand  bar,  and  being  compelled  to  remain 
there  until  the  late  summer  and  fall  rains  swell  the  stream  again  to 
an  extent  sufficient  to  float  them.  At  Louisville,  Kentucky,  the  only 
falls  of  the  river  occur.  The  descent  is  here  about  22J  feet  in  two 
miles.  The  current  is  very  swift,  but  in  high  water  first-class  steam- 
ers pass  over  the  rapids.  A  canal  has  been  cut  around  them  to  the 
river  below,  by  means  of  which  the  obstruction  they  present  to  navi- 
gation has  been  partly  overcome.  Formerly  the  river  trade  was  most 
important  and  extensive.  Of  late  years,  however,  it  has  been  very 
much  reduced  by  the  competition  of  the  railroads,  but  is  still  im- 
mense. The  Ohio,  for  the  greater  part  of  its  course,  flows  through  a 
narrow,  but  beautiful  valley.  The  hills,  from  two  hundred  to  three 
hundred  feet  high,  are  covered  with  an  almost  continuous  forest  of  a 
dark  rich  green  hue,  and  come  down  so  close  to  the  water  that  at 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  45 

times  they  seem  to  shut  it  in  entirely.  Though  beautiful,  the  scenery  is 
monotonous,  and  is  rather  tame.  The  river  contains  fully  one  hundred 
islands,  some  of  which  are  exceedingly  valuable  and  beautiful.  There 
are  also  a  number  of  "Tow  Heads,"  as  they  are  called — small  sandy 
islands,  covered  with  willows,  and  utterly  barren.  Below  Louisville 
the  country  becomes  flatter,  and  by  the  time  the  Mississippi  is  reached, 
the  hills  have  entirely  disappeared.  The  valley  of  the  Ohio  is  ex- 
ceedingly fertile,  and  is  rich  in  various  kinds  of  minerals. 

Its  principal  tributaries  are  the  Muskingum,  Scioto,  Miami,  and 
Wabash,  on  the  right,  and  the  Great  Kanawha,  Big  Sandy,  Green, 
Kentucky,  Cumberland,  and  Tennessee,  on  the  left.  The  most  im- 
portant are  the  Wabash,  Cumberland,  and  Tennessee,  the  last  of 
which  is  the  largest.  The  Tennessee  and  its  tributaries  reach  far  back 
into  the  mountains  of  that  State  and  Virginia,  and  the  headwaters  of 
the  Alleghany  rise  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State  of  New  York  and 
in  Potter  County,  Pennsylvania.  Between  them  and  the  waters 
which  flow  into  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Chesapeake  Bay, 
there  is  only  a  slight  elevation,  and  a  distance  of  but  a  few  acres. 
The  area  drained  by  the  Ohio  and  its  tributaries  is  about  200,000 
square  miles. 

The  country  through  which  the  Ohio  flows  is  a  prosperous  agricul- 
tural region,  and  a  number  of  large  and  thriving  cities  and  towns  are 
located  on  its  banks.  Its  various  prominent  features  will  be  noticed 
in  other  portions  of  this  work. 

THE    ARKANSAS    RIVER 

Is  the  next  important  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohio.  Next  to  the  Missouri,  it  is  the  longest  affluent  of  the 
great  river.  It  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  near  the  centre  of  Colo- 
rado, and  flows  easterly  for  several  hundred  miles,  after  which  it  turns 
to  the  southeast  and  continues  in  that  general  direction  until  it  reaches 
the  Mississippi,  in  latitude  30°  54'  N.,  longitude  91°  10'  W.  It 
enters  Arkansas  at  Fort  Smith,  on  the  western  frontier,  and  divides 
the  State  into  two  nearly  equal  portions. 

In  the  upper  part  of  its  course  it  flows  through  vast  sterile  plains, 
but  after  entering  the  State  which  bears  its  name,  continues  its  way 
through  a  region  of  considerable  fertility.  It  is  2000  miles  long  from 
its  source  to  its  mouth,  and  is  not  obstructed  by  rapids  or  falls.  It 
varies  in  width  from  three  furlongs  to  half  a  mile.  Its  current  is 
turbid  and  sluggish.  The  difference  in  the  height  of  the  water  in  the 


46  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

floods  and  the  dry  seasons  is  about  25  feet.  For  the  greater  part  of 
the  year  it  is  navigable  by  steamers  for  a  distance  of  800  miles  from 
its  mouth.  The  most  important  town  on  the  river  is  Little  Rock,  the 
the  capital  of  the  State. 

The  last  important  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  is 

THE    RED    RIYER. 

This  stream  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  two  principal  branches, 
of  which  the  southern  and  larger  rises  in  New  Mexico,  a  little  beyond 
the  western  boundary  of  Texas,  in  latitude  34°  42'  N.,  longitude  103° 
1'  10"  W.;  the  northern  in  Texas,  in  latitude  35°  35'  3"  N.,  longi- 
tude 101°  55'  W.  These  two  branches  unite  in  latitude  34°  30'  N., 
longitude  100°  W.,  in  the  State  of  Texas,  and  constitute  the  main 
river,  which  then  flows  nearly  due  east,  forming  the  boundary  between 
the  Indian  Territory  and  Texas.  Upon  reaching  the  Arkansas  line, 
it  passes  into  that  State  to  Fulton,  near  the  border,  when  it  bends  to 
the  south  and  enters  Louisiana.  Then  turning  to  the  southeast,  it 
flows  across  the  last  named  State  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi, 
341  miles  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Its  length,  including  the 
South  Fork,  is  estimated  by  Colonel  Marcy,  U.  S.  A.,  by  whom  the 
river  was  explored,  at  2100  miles — the  main  stream  being  1200 
miles  long. 

According  to  this  authority,  the  South,  or  main,  Fork,  rises  in  the 
fissures  of  an  elevated  and  sterile  plain,  called  the  Llano  Estacado,  at 
an  altitude  of  2450  feet  above  the  sea.  For  the  first  sixty  miles  the 
sides  of  the  river  rise  from  500  to  800  feet  so  directly  from  the  water 
that  the  exploring  party  were  obliged  to  pass  up  through  the  channel 
of  the  stream. 

"After  leaving  the  Llano  Estacado,"  says  Colonel  Marcy,  "the 
river  flows  through  an  arid  prairie  country,  almost  entirely  destitute 
of  trees,  over  a  broad  bed  of  light  shifting  sands,  for  a  distance  of 
some  500  miles,  following  its  sinuosities.  It  then  enters  a  country 
covered  with  gigantic  forest  trees,  growing  upon  a  soil  of  the  most 
preeminent  fertility ;  here  the  borders  contract,  and  the  water  for  a 
great  portion  of  the  year  washes  both  banks,  carrying  the  loose  allu- 
vium from  one  side,  and  depositing  it  on  the  other,  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  produce  constant  changes  in  the  channel,  and  to  render  naviga- 
tion difficult.  This  character  continues  throughout  the  remainder  of 
its  course  to  the  Delta  of  the  Mississippi ;  and  in  this  section  it  is 
subject  to  heavy  inundations,  which  often  flood  the  bottoms  to  such 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  4T 

a  degree  as  to  destroy  the  crops,  and  occasionally,  on  subsiding, 
leaving  a  deposit  of  white  sand,  rendering  the  soil  barren  and 
worthless." 

Shortly  after  leaving  its  sources,  the  South  Fork  passes  through  a 
vast  bed  of  gypsum  for  a  distance  of  100  miles,  which  gives  to  its 
waters  an  intensely  bitter  and  unpleasant  taste,  causing  them  rather 
to  augment  than  diminish  thirst. 

The  river  is  navigable  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year  to 
Shreveport,  500  miles  from  its  mouth.  Small  steamers  can  ascend 
about  300  miles  farther  in  high  water. 

About  30  miles  above  Shreveport  is  an  immense  collection  of  rub- 
bish known  as  the  "  Great  Raft,"  which  forms  the  principal  obstacle 
to  the  navigation  of  the  upper  river.  It  consists  of  driftwood  and 
trees,  which  have  been  brought  down  for  hundreds  of  miles  by  the 
current,  and  lodged  here.  This  raft  obstructs  the  channel  for  a  dis- 
tance of  seventy  miles,  and  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  year 
causes  the  river  to  overflow  the  country  along  its  banks.  In  1834—35 
it  was  removed  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  at  a  cost  of 
$300,000,  but  a  new  raft  has  formed  since  then.  In  very  high  water 
small  steamers  pass  around  it. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Red  River  are  the  Little  Washita 
and  Big  Washita. 

The  other  rivers,  which  are  national  in  character — by  which  we 
mean  not  lying  entirely  or  for  the  greater  part  in  one  particular  State 
or  Territory  of  the  Union — are  the  Rio  Grande,  the  Great  Colorado 
of  the  West,  the  Columbia,  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  first  and  last 
of  which  form  a  portion  of  the  boundaries  of  the  Republic. 

THE    RIO    GRANDE 

Rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico,  near 
latitude  38°  N.,  and  longitude  106°  30'  W.  Its  course  is  at  first 
southeast,  then  E.  S.  E.,  and  finally  nearly  east.  It  forms  the 
boundary  between  the  State  of  Texas  and  the  Republic  of  Mexico, 
and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  near  latitude  25°  N.,  and  longi- 
tude 97°  W.  It  is  1800  miles  long,  and  is  for  the  most  part  very 
shallow.  Sand  bars  are  numerous  and  render  the  stream  almost  unfit 
for  navigation.  Small  steamers  have  succeeded  in  reaching  Kings- 
bury 's  Rapids,  about  4»50  miles  from  the  Gulf.  About  900  miles 
from  its  mouth  the  river  is  only  three  or  four  feet  deep.  This  point 
is  called  the  "  Grand  Indian  Crossing,"  because  the  Comanche  and 


48  THE     GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Apachee  Indians  ford  the  stream  here  in  their  incursions  from  Texas 
into  Mexico.  The  principal  town  on  the  river  is  Brownsville,  40 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  opposite  the  Mexican  city  of  Mattamoras. 

THE    COLORADO    RIVER, 

Or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  Great  Colorado  of  the  West,  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  the  Colorado  River,  of  Texas,  rises  in  latitude  44° 
N.,  in  Idaho  Territory,  and,  flowing  through  Utah  Territory,  and 
along  the  borders  of  Nevada,  California,  and  Arizona,  empties  into 
the  Gulf  of  California,  near  latitude  32°  30'  N.  From  its  source  to 
the  36th  parallel  of  North  latitude,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Grand 
and  Little  Colorado  Rivers,  it  is  known  as  the  Green  River.  It  has 
several  small  tributaries  between  its  source  and  the  Great  South  Pass. 
At  this  pass,  it  receives  the  Big  Sandy  Creek,  at  an  elevation  of  7489 
feet  above  the  sea.  Just  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains  are  the 
Wind  and  Sweetwater  Rivers,  two  of  the  principal  tributaries  of  the 
Upper  Missouri.  From  the  South  Pass,  the  Colorado  flows  in  a 
generally  southwest  direction  to  its  mouth.  It  is  about  1200  miles 
long,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  Columbia,  is  the  most  important 
stream  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but,  in  spite  of  its  great 
length,  the  volume  of  water  which  it  discharges  is  comparatively 
small. 

"About  490  miles  above  its  mouth  commences  the  great  defile  in  the 
mountains  called  the  Black  Canon,  25  miles  long,  through  which  the 
river  has  forced  its  way.  The  banks  in  many  places  are  very  pre- 
cipitous, from  1000  to  1500  feet  high,  and  for  a  long  distance  the 
river  is  unapproachable.  A  steamboat  under  the  command  of  Lieut. 
Ives,  U.  S.  Topographical  Engineers,  ascended  the  stream  early  in 
1858,  and  passing  a  portion  of  the  great  caftan  reached  the  head  of 
navigation  at  the  head  of  Virgen  River.  Few  obstacles  except  shift- 
ing sand  bars  were  met  on  the  voyage.  The  explorations  of  Lieut. 
Ives,  who  traversed  the  valley  of  the  river  from  its  mouth  to  latitude 
36°  N.,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  regions  along  latitude  35°  and  36° 
as  far  east  as  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the  previous  reconnoissances  con- 
nected with  the  surveys  for  a  railway  to  the  Pacific,  have  made  known 
interesting  facts  connected  with  the  region  watered  by  the  Colorado. 
In  its  valley  is  found  a  large  extent  of  fertile  bottom  land,  easily  cul- 
tivated by  artificial  irrigation.  This  valley  varies  in  width  from  three 
to  eight  miles.  The  greater  part  of  it  is  covered  with  timber,  chiefly 
cottonwood  and  mezquit.  Other  portions  are  cultivated  by  the  nu- 


THE    rXITED    STATES.  49 

merous  tribes  of  Indians  who  live  along  its  banks,  affording  them  an 
abundance  of  wheat,  maize,  melons,  beans,  squashes,  etc.  Cotton  is 
also  cultivated  by  such  of  the  Pueblo  Indians  as  are  acquainted  with 
the  art  of  weaving.  Some  portions  of  the  country  are  uninhabitable ; 
others  are  rich  in  silver,  copper,  and  lead,  besides  containing  gold  and 
mercury  in  small  quantities.  According  to  an  estimate  made  by  the 
IT.  S.  officers  who  have  explored  the  Colorado,  there  are  about  700 
square  miles  of  arable  land  between  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  and  the 
35th  parallel  of  North  latitude.  After  receiving  the  Gila,  the  Colo- 
rado takes  a  sudden  turn  westward,  forcing  its  way  through  a  chain 
of  rocky  hills,  70  feet  high,  and  about  350  yards  in  length.  In  this 
passage  it  is  about  600  feet  wide,  but  soon  expands  to  1200  feet, 
which  it  retains.  After  sweeping  around  7  or  8  miles,  it  assumes  a 
south  direction,  and  with  a  very  tortuous  course  of  nearly  160  miles 
reaches  the  Gulf  of  California.  The  bottom  lands  are  here  from  4 
to  5  miles  wide,  and  covered  with  a  thick  forest.  On  a  rocky  emi- 
nence at  the  junction  with  the  Gila  stands  Fort  Yuma.  Near  the  fort 
are  the  remains  of  the  buildings  of  the  old  Spanish  Mission  established 
here  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  century,  and  in  the  valley  are  traces 
of  irrigating  canals,  which  show  that  it  has  once  been  cultivated."  * 

The  average  depth  of  water  between  Fort  Yuma  and  the  Gulf  of 
California  is  8  feet.  Spring  tides  rise  25  or  30  feet,  and  neap  tides 
10  feet.  There  is  regular  communication  by  means  of  small  steamers 
between  Fort  Yuma  and  the  mouth  of  the  river.  At  low  water 
there  is  a  draught  of  4  feet  at  the  Fort,  and  in  high  water  13  feet. 
The  channel  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  continually  changing,  and 
has  been  known  to  shift  from  one  bank  to  another  in  the  course  of  a 
single  night.  There  is  also  a  heavy  tidal  wave  at  its  mouth,  which 
renders  it  difficult  and  dangerous  for  any  but  the  lightest  draught 
steamers  to  enter  the  stream.  When  the  freshets  occur,  the  river 
overflows  its  banks,  submerges  a  part  of  the  California  Desert,  and 
fills  up  several  basins,  and  what  is  known  as  New  River.  This  water 
is  left  in  the  basins  and  New  River  when  the  main  stream  returns  to 
its  proper  channel,  and  continues  in  them  for  about  two  years,  when 
it  is  absorbed  by  the  soil,  or  dried  up  by  the  sun. 

The  mouth  of  the  Colorado  was  discovered  in  the  year  1540,  by 
Fernando  Alarchon,  who  undertook  a  voyage  to  the  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia, by  order  of  the  Viceroy  of  Spain.  He  described  it  as  "  a  very 
mighty  river,  which  ran  Avith  so  great  a  fury  of  stream  that  we  could 

*  Applet  on 's  Cyclopaedia,  vol.  v.  p.  502. 


50  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

hardly  sail  against  it."  He  sent  an  expedition,  consisting  of  two 
boats,  some  distance  up  the  river.  In  1700,  a  Mission  was  estab- 
lished by  Father  Kino  near  the  site  of  the  present  Fort  Yuma,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Gila. 

The  name  of  the  Colorado  signifies  "  the  Red  River,"  its  waters 
being  stained  by  the  red  earth  along  its  course.  Its  principal  tribu- 
taries are  the  Grand,  San  Juan,  White,  Little  Colorado,  Virgen,  Wil- 
liams, and  Gila  Rivers.  The  Mohave  was  formerly  supposed  to  be  a 
tributary,  but  is  now  known  to  empty  into  Soda  Lake,  in  California. 

THE    COLUMBIA    RIVER 

Is  the  principal  body  of  water  flowing  into  the  Pacific  Ocean  from  the 
Continent  of  America.  It  rises  in  a  small  lake  on  the  western  slope 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  about  latitude  50°  N.,  longitude  116°  W. 
Its  first  course  is  towards  the  northwest,  along  the  base  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  until  it  is  joined  by  its  most  northern  tributary,  in  about 
53°  30'  N.  latitude,  after  which  it  flows  in  a  southerly  direction  to 
the  46th  parallel.  From  this  point  to  the  Pacific  it  runs  due  west, 
forming  the  boundary  between  the  State  of  Oregon  and  Washington 
Territory.  It  is  extremely  tortuous  between  the  46th  and  48th  parallels 
of  North  latitude.  This  is  the  case  until  Fort  Wallawalla  is  reached. 
It  is  very  rapid,  and  frequently  passes  through  mountain  gorges  and 
over  falls.  The  tide  ascends  to  the  foot  of  the  Cascades,  140  miles 
from  the  sea.  The  Cascades  are  a  series  of  rapids  caused  by  the  pas- 
sage of  the  river  through  the  Cascade  range  of  mountains.  Between 
each  of  the  rapids  there  is  an  unbroken  stretch  of  the  river  for  about 
25  or  30  miles.  Steamers  ply  on  the  lower  river,  on  the  clear  waters 
between  the  Cascades,  and  for  some  distance  above  the  last  fall. 
Passengers  and  freights  are  carried  around  the  falls  by  railroad. 
Vessels  of  200  or  300  tons  burthen  navigate  the  stream  to  the  foot 
of  the  Cascades.  For  30  miles  from  its  mouth,  the  Columbia  forms 
a  splendid  bay  from  3  to  7  miles  in  breadth,  through  which  it  dis- 
charges its  waters  into  the  Pacific.  There  is  about  20  feet  water  on 
the  bar  at  its  mouth,  but  the  depth  of  the  channel  is  24  feet. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Columbia  are  the  Lewis  and  Clark 
Forks,  which,  uniting,  form  the  main  river,  the  McGillivray's,  or 
Flat  Bow  River,  Okonagan,  Fall  River,  Wallawalla,  and  Willa- 
mette. The  Lewis  Fork  is  sometimes  called  the  Snake  River,  and  the 
Clark  Fork,  the  Flathead  River.  The  total  length  of  the  Columbia, 
from  its  source  to  the  sea,  is  about  1200  miles. 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


51 


RAPIDS  OF  THE  ST.    LAWRENCE. 

THE    SAINT   LAWRENCE   RIVER 

Forms  a  portion  of  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  the 
Canadas,  and  though  washing  the  shores  of  the  Union  for  but  a  part 
of  its  course,  cannot  be  passed  over  in  this  chapter.  Some  geogra- 
phers, in  consequence  of  its  forming  the  outlet  of,  the  chain  of  lakes 
upon  the  northern  frontier  of  the  Union,  regard  it  as  commencing  at 
the  source  of  the  St.  Louis,  which  rises  in  Minnesota,  and  flows  into 
Luke  Superior.  Viewed  in  this  light,  it  flows  through  the  great 
lakes,  and  its  total  length  from  the  head  of  the  St.  Louis  to  the  Gulf 
of  St.  Lawrence,  would  be  2200  miles.  Its  course  to  the  head  of 
I  sake  Erie  would  be  in  a  generally  southeast  direction;  and  from  the 
head  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  sea,  in  a  generally  northeast  direction. 
Viewing  it  in  this  light,  we  must  regard  the  Ste.  Marie,  between 
Lakes  Huron  and  Superior;  the  St.  Clair  and  Detroit,  between  Lakes 
Huron  and  Erie;  and  the  Niagara,  between  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario, 
as  forming  parts  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  By  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
however,  is  most  commonly  meant  that  portion  of  it  lying  between 
Lake  Ontario  and  the  Gulf  of  St,  Lawrence.  This  constitutes  a  large1 
rive?  750  miles  long,  having  an  average  breadth  of  half  a  mile,  antf 


52  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

navigable  for  steamers  to  the  Gulf.  Ships  of  the  line  ascend  to  Que- 
bec, and  vessels  of  600  tons  to  Montreal,  in  Canada.  Above  Mon- 
treal the  navigation  is  interrupted  by  numerous  rapids,  around  which 
a  canal  has  been  cut.  The  river  forms  the  boundary  of  the  United 
States  from  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario  to  the  extreme  northwestern 
corner  of  the  State  of  New  York.  Ogdensburg  and  Cape  Vincent 
are  the  principal  American  towns  on  its  banks. 

LAKES. 

The  principal  lakes  of  the  United  States,  are  Lakes  Superior, 
Michigan,  Huron,  Erie,  Ontario,  and  Champlain,  lying  along  the 
northern  frontier,  and  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  in  Utah  Territory. 

LAKE    SUPERIOR 

Is  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  in  the  world,  and  the  principal  of 
the  cnain  of  great  lakes  extending  along  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  United  States.  It  lies  between  latitude  46°  30'  and  49°  N.,  and 
longitude  84°  50'  and  92°  10'  W.  It  forms  a  species  of  crescent, 
with  its  convexity  on  the  north,  and  its  concavity  on  the  south.  Its 
greatest  length,  from  east  to  west,  measured  through  the  curve,  is  420 
miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  160  miles.  The 
total  length  of  its  coast  line  is  about  1750  miles.  It  covers  an  area 
estimated  at  32,000  square  miles.  It  is  630  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  has  an  average  depth  of  one  thousand  feet.  Its  shape  is 
very  irregular.  It  is  very  wide  at  its  centre,  but  narrows  slightly 
towards  its  eastern  end,  and  very  much  towards  its  western  end. 

The  shore  on  the  north  side  is  bold  and  rocky,  and  consists  of 
almost  continuous  ranges  of  cliffs,  which  rise  to  a  height  varying 
from  300  to  1500  feet.  The  south  shore  is  flat  and  sandy,  as  a  gene- 
ral rule,  but  near  the  eastern  side  is  broken  by  limestone  ridges, 
which  rise  to  a  height  of  near  300  feet,  in  strange  and  fantastic  forms, 
worn  into  numerous  caverns.  These  have  been  cut  by  the  action 
of  the  great  waves,  especially  during  the  season  of  the  floating  ice, 
and  have  been  colored  by  the  continual  drippings  of  mineral  substan- 
ces. From  the  earliest  times  they  have  been  known  as  the  "  Pictured 
Rocks.7'  They  lie  to  the  east  of  Point  Keweenaw,  and  form  one  of 
the  most  wonderful  of  the  natural  curiosities  of  the  New  World.  Is- 
lands are  very  numerous  towards  the  south  arid  north  shores,  but  the 
centre  of  the  lake  is  free  from  them.  The  islands  towards  the  south 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  53 

are  generally  small,  but  those  along  the  north  shore  are  often  of  con- 
siderable size.  The  largest  is  Isle  Royal,  which  is  about  40  miles 
long,  and  7  or  8  miles  wide.  Its  hills  rise  to  a  height  of  400  feet, 
with  fine  bold  shores  on  the  north,  and  several  excellent  bays  on  the 
south.  Near  the  western  end  of  the  lake  is  a  rocky,  forest-covered 
group,  called  the  Apostles7  Islands.  They  are  exceedingly  pictur- 
esque in  appearance,  and  form  a  prominent  and  interesting  portion  of 
the  scenery  of  the  lake.  On  the  extreme  southwestern  end  of  the 
largest,  is  La  Pointe,  a  famous  fur  trading  post,  and  well  known  as 
the  principal  rendezvous  for  the  hardy  adventurers  of  the  lake  region. 

Lake  Superior  receives  its  waters  from  more  than  200  streams, 
about  30  of  which  are  of  considerable  size.  These  drain  an  area  of 
100,000  square  miles,  and  furnish  the  lake  with  water  remarkable  for 
its  clearness,  and  abounding  in  fish  of  various  kinds,  but  especially  in 
trout,  white  fish,  and  salmon.  The  rivers  are  almost  all  unfit  for 
navigation,  by  reason  of  their  tremendous  currents,  rapids,  and  rocks. 
The  outlet  of  the  lake  is  at  the  southeastern  end,  by  means  of  St. 
Mary's  Strait,  or  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  St.  Mary's  River,  which 
connects  it  with  Lake  Huron  and  the  other  great  lakes.  This  strait 
is  about  63  miles  long,  and  enters  Lake  Huron  by  three  channels. 
It  is  very  beautiful  and  romantic  in  its  scenery,  at  some  places  spread- 
ing out  into  small  lakes,  and  at  others  rushing  in  foaming  torrents 
over  the  rocks  that  seek  to  bar  its  way,  or  winding  around  beautiful 
islands.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  eight  feet  of  water,  from 
Lake  Huron  to  within  one  mile  of  Lake  Superior,  at  which  point 
falls  obstruct  the  navigation.  This  part  of  the  strait  is  called  the 
Sault  Ste.  Marie.  A  canal  has  been  constructed  by  the  General  Gov- 
ernment around  the  rapids.  It  is  100  feet  wide  and  12  feet  deep,  and 
affords  unbroken  communication  between  Lakes  Superior  and  Huron. 
The  falls  have  a  descent  of  22  feet  in  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  and 
are  exceedingly  beautiful.  The  strait  also  separates  the  State  of 
Michigan  from  Canada  West. 

The  greatest  obstacles  to  the  navigation  of  the  lake  are  the  violent 
storms  that  sweep  over  it.  Until  very  recently  it  was  an  almost 
unknown  region,  but  now  there  is  constant  steamboat  communication 
along  its  entire  length,  and  it  is  frequently  visited  by  persons  in 
search  of  pleasure  or  health. 

The  principal  export  of  the  lake  is  copper,  which  is  found  in  large 
quantities,  and  of  a  superior  quality,  along  its  shores.  The  total  ship- 
ments of  this  metal,  from  the  period  of  its  discovery  on  the  lake  down 
to  the  close  of  the  year  1871,  amounted  to  over  $30,000,000. 


54  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Fond  du  Lac,  and  Duluth,  at  the  western  end  of  the  lake,  are  the 
principal  settlements  on  its  shores. 

For  many  years  the  savage  settlements  along  the  lake  were  mere 
fishing  villages,  and  even  at  the  period  of  its  discovery,  the  Indians 
had  made  but  few  lodgments  here.  Attention  was  first  drawn  to  it 
by  its  valuable  fur  trade,  and  the  early  Jesuit  missionaries  reached  it 
about  the  year  1641.  They  established  their  first  mission  at  the  head 
of  the  Bay  of  Pentanguishene  (in  Georgian  Bay),  and  passed  up  in  a 
canoe  to  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  where  they  found  a  village  of  2000 
Chippewa  Indians,  and  heard  from  them  of  the  great  lake  beyond, 
which  was  explored  by  the  missionaries  about  20  years  later.  In 
1668,  a  permanent  mission  was  established  at  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie, 
and  in  1671,  the  region  was  formally  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of 

the  Kin«:  of  France.     The  mines  were  first  worked  in  1771  and  1772, 

f>  * 

by  an  Englishman  named  Alexander  Henry,  whose  enterprise  proved 
unprofitable.  General  Lewis  Cass,  by  order  of  the  (jrovernment  of 
the  United  States,  explored  the  region  in  1820,  and  since  then  it  has 
been  growing  in  importance,  and  has  yearly  become  better  known  to 
the  people  of  the  country  at  large. 

LAKE    HURON 

Is  the  third  in  size  of  the  great  inland  seas  we  are  describing.  It  lies 
between  latitude  43°  and  46°  15'  N.,  and  longitude  80°  and  84°  W. 
It  receives  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior  by  the  St.  Mary's  River,  and 
of  Lake  Michigan  by  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  and  empties  into  Lake 
Erie  by  the  St.  Clair  River.  It  is  bounded  on  the  S.  S.  W.  by  the 
State  of  Michigan,  and  on  all  other  sides  by  Canada  West.  A  long 
peninsula  called  Cabot's  Head,  and  the  Manitouline  chain  of  islands 
divide  it  into  two  unequal  portions.  Those  portions  lying  to  the 
north  and  east  are  generally  called  Manitou  (the  Great  Spirit)  Lake, 
or  the  North  Channel,  and  Manitouline  Lake,  or  Georgian  Bay.  The 
general  outline  of  the  rest  of  the  lake  is  in  the  form  of  a  crescent, 
pursuing  a  S.  S.  E.  and  N.  N.  W.  course.  Its  extreme  length,  fol- 
lowing the  curve,  is  about  280  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth,  exclusive 
of  Georgian  Bay,  is  105  miles.  Its  average  breadth  is  about  70 
miles,  and  it  covers  an  area  of  20,400  square  miles.  The  surface  of 
the  water  is  elevated  19  feet  above  Lake  Erie,  352  feet  above  Onta- 
rio, and  600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Its  average  depth  is 
over  1000  feet.  Off  Saginaw  Bay,  which  indents  the  coast  of  Michi- 
gan, leads  have  been  sunk  1800  feet  without  finding  the  bottom. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  55 

The  waters  of  the  lake  are  remarkably  pure  and  sweet,  and  so  ex- 
ceedingly transparent  that  objects  can  be  distinctly  seen  50  or  60  feet 
below  the  surface.  The  lake  is  said  to  contain  upwards  of  3000  is- 
lands. It  is  subject  to  frequent  fearful  storms,  but  its  navigation  is 
not  considered  dangerous.  Steamers  ply  between  its  various  ports, 
and  pass  through  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw  into  Lake  Michigan. 
There  are  many  fine  harbors  on  the  coast,  and  the  local  trade  is  im- 
portant. The  scenery  is  romantic  and  beautiful,  and  is  much  admired 
by  travellers. 

The  outlet  of  Lake  Huron  is  by  the  St.  Clair  River,  which  leaves 
the  lake  on  its  southern  extremity.  It  has  an  average  breadth  of 
half  a  mile.  It  pursues  a  southerly  course  for  forty  miles,  forming  a 
part  of  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and 
empties  into  Lake  St.  Clair.  It  is  navigable  for  large  vessels. 

LAKE  ST.  CLAIR  lies  between  Canada  and  the  State  of  Michigan, 
in  latitude  42°  30'  N.,  longitude  82°  3'  W.  It  is  30  miles  long,  has 
a  mean  breadth  of  12  miles,  and  is  20  feet  deep.  It  is  thickly  inter- 
spersed with  islands,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Thames,  Clinton, 
and  Great  Bear  Creeks,  and  other  streams.  At  its  southwestern  ex- 
tremity it  flows  into  the  Detroit  River,  which  connects  it  with  Lake 
Erie.  This  river  is  in  reality  a  mere  strait  25  miles  long,  and  from 
half  a  mile  to  a  mile  wide.  The  entire  passage  between  Lakes  Huron 
and  Erie  is  navigable  for  large  vessels. 

LAKE    MICHIGAN 

Lies  wholly  within  the  limits  of  the  United  States,  and  is  the  largest 
lake  included  within  the  territory  of  the  Republic.  The  greater  por- 
tion of  the  lake  lies  between  the  State  of  Michigan,  on  the  east,  and 
Illinois  and  Wisconsin,  on  the  west ;  but  the  upper  portion  is  entirely 
within  the  State  of  Michigan.  The  lake  is  situated  between  41°  30' 
and  46°  N.  latitude,  and  between  85°  50'  and  88°  W.  longitude.  It 
bends  slightly  to  the  N.  E.  in  the  upper  part,  and  its  extreme  length, 
following  the  curve,  is  about  350  miles;  its  extreme  width  90  miles. 
It  has  an  average  depth  of  about  900  feet,  and  covers  an  area  of 
20,000  square  miles.  As  a  general  rule,  the  shores  of  the  lake  are 
low,  and  are  formed  of  limestone  rock,  clay,  and  sand.  The  sand 
thrown  on  the  east  shore  by  the  heavy  seas  which  prevail  during 
storms,  soon  becomes  dry,  and  is  carried  inland  by  the  winds,  where 
it  is  piled  up  in  hills  to  a  height  of  from  10  to  150  feet.  The  form 
of  these  hills  is  constantly  changing.  The  lake  is  said  to  be  gradually 


56  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

moving  westward,  or,  in  other  words,  to  be  leaving  the  shore  of 
Michigan,  and  encroaching  upon  that  of  Wisconsin. 

There  are  very  few  islands  in  Lake  Michigan,  and  these  lie  to- 
wards its  northeastern  extremity.  It  has  but  few  bays  on  its  shores, 
and  still  fewer  good  harbors.  Little  Traverse  Bay,  Grand  Haven, 
and  Green  Bay  are  the  principal.  As  the  lake  is  subject  to  terrible 
storms  throughout  the  year,  it  is  not  considered  very  safe  for  naviga- 
tion. Previous  to  the  completion  of  the  railroads,  however,  its  com- 
merce was  very  great,  and  several  lines  of  fine  steamers  ran  between 
Chicago,  Illinois,  and  Buffalo,  New  York,  on  Lake  Erie.  There  are 
many  steamers  and  other  craft  still  on  the  lake,  but  the  railroads  have 
taken  away  nearly  the  entire  passenger,  and  much  of  the  freight 
business. 

Lake  Michigan  is  connected  with  Huron  and  the  other  lakes  by 
the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  or  Mackinac.  The  lake  is  usually  free 
from  ice  by  the  last  of  March,  but  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw  are  frozen 
over  until  late  in  April.  Fish  abound  in  the  lake,  are  caught  in 
great  quantities  near  Mackinaw,  and  are  sent  to  the  various  parts  of 
the  Union,  packed  in  ice. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns  on  Lake  Michigan,  are  Chicago, 
Kacine,  Milwaukee,  and  Sheboygan,  on  the  west  side,  and  Michigan 
City  and  Grand  Haven,  on  the  east  side.  There  are  23  lighthouses 
and  4  beacons  on  the  lake. 

LAKE    ERIE 

Lies  between  Canada  West,  on  the  north,  a  part  of  the"  States  of  New 
York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Ohio,  on  the  south,  Michigan  on  the  west,- 
and  New  York  on  the  east.  It  is  situated  between  41°  25'  and  42° 
55'  N.  latitude,  and  between  78°  55'  and  83°  34'  W.  longitude.  It 
is  elliptical  in  form,  is  240  miles  long,  has  an  average  width  of  38 
miles,  its  greatest  width  being  57  miles,  and  has  a  total  circumference 
or  coast  line  of  658  miles.  Its  depth  is  less  than  that  of  any  of  the 
other  great  lakes,  being  only  270  feet  in  its  deepest  portion.  Its  average 
depth  is  estimated  at  120  feet.  It  is  322  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake 
Ontario,  which  distance  is  overcome  at  a  single  effort  by  the  falls  of 
the  Niagara. 

The  shallowness  of  Lake  Erie  offers  a  great  obstacle  to  navigation, 
inasmuch  as  the  shoal  portions  freeze  over  regularly  every  winter. 
There  are  scarcely  any  naturally  good  harbors  on  the  lake.  Those  now 
in  use  require  to  be  deepened  and  protected  by  artificial  means.  Not- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  51 

withstanding  the  fact  that  the  railroads  have  drawn  off  an  immense 
amount  of  trade,  and  in  spite  of  the  obstacles  presented  by  the  lake 
itself,  its  commerce  is  still  very  great.  The  trade  of  the  port  of 
Buffalo  alone  is  estimated  at  over  $85,000,000  annually.  The  total 
trade  of  the  lake  is  over  $220,000,000  annually.  A  large  numler  of 
steamers  and  other  vessels  are  engaged  during  the  season  of  naviga- 
tion, which  lasts  from  about  the  1st  of  April  to  about  the  1st  of  De- 
cember. The  principal  harbors  on  the  American  side,  are  those  of 
Cleveland,  Sandusky  City,  Toledo,  Buffalo,  Erie,  and  Dunkirk. 
Those  on  the  Canadian  side  are  Ports  Dover,  Burwell,  and  Stanley. 

The  shores  of  the  lake  are  in  many  places  of  a  very  unstable  nature, 
and  yield  easily  to  the  action  of  the  water,  causing  frequent  dangerous 
"  slides,"  as  they  are  called.  Buffalo  has  suffered  considerably  from 
this  cause.  The  waters  abound  in  fish,  the  principal  of  which  are  the 
trout  and  white  fish.  Several  species  of  pike,  the  sturgeon,  sisquit, 
muskelonge,  black  bass,  white  bass,  and  Oswego  bass  are  found. 
There  are  26  lighthouses  and  beacons  on  the  American,  and  10  on 
the  Canada  shore.  Communication  is  maintained  between  Lakes  Erie 
and  Ontario  by  means  of  the  Welland  Canal,  which  is  cut  through 
the  Canadian  peninsula.  The  Maumee,  Sandusky,  Grand,  Huron, 
Raisin,  and  several  other  rivers  flow  into  the  lake.  The  most  violent 
storms  sweep  over  it,  particularly  in  the  months  of  November  and 
December,  causing  many  shipwrecks  and  considerable  destruction  to 
life  and  property. 

The  outlet  is  by  the  Niagara  River,  which  commences  at  Black 
Rock,  about  4  miles  north  of  Buffalo.  It  is  34  miles  long,  and  has 
a  general  northward  course.  About  7  miles  from  Buffalo,  the  river 
divides  and  encloses  a  large  island,  called  Grand  Island,  12  miles 
long,  and  from  2  to  7  miles  wide.  Two  or  three  miles  below  Grand 
Island  are  the  famous  Falls  of  Niagara,  which  will  be  described  in 
the  chapter  relating  to  the  State  of  New  York.  The  river  is  navi- 
gable above  the  falls  from  a  short  distance  above  the  rapids  to  Lake 
Erie — nearly  20  miles ;  and  from  its  mouth  to  Lewiston,  7  miles.  It 
is  spanned  by  two  fine  suspension  bridges. 

On  the  10th  of  September  1813,  Commodore  Oliver  N.  Perry,  in 
command  of  a  small  American  squadron,  defeated  a  British  fleet  of 
superior  force  near  Put-in-bay,  a  harbor  among  the  Bass  Islands,  near 
the  western  end  of  the  lake.  This  victory  completely  destroyed  the 
British  power  along  the  shores  of  Michigan. 


58  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

LAKE    ONTARIO 

Is  the  smallest  and  most  easterly  of  the  five  great  lakes  of  America, 
and  is  situated  between  latitude  43°  10'  and  44°  10'  N.,  and  between 
longitude  76°  and  80°  W.  It  runs  nearly  due  east  and  west,  and 
divides  the  State  of  New  York  on  the  south  from  Canada  on  the 
north.  It  is  190  miles  long,  and  its  greatest  breadth  is  55  miles.  It 
covers  an  area  of  5400  square  miles,  is  about  230  feet  above  the 
tide  water  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  a  depth  of  about  600  feet.  It 
is  navigable  throughout  its  entire  extent  for  ships  of  the  line,  and  'has 
several  fine  harbors,  the  principal  of  which  are  Oswego  and  Sackett's 
Harbor,  on  the  New  York  shore,  and  Kingston,  Toronto,  and  Hamil- 
ton, in  Canada.  The  lake  is  rarely  closed  with  ice  to  any  extent,  ex- 
cept in  the  shoal  water  along  the  shore,  and  never  freezes  over.  It 
receives  the  waters  of  the  upper  lakes  through  the  Niagara,  and  those 
of  the  Genesee,  Oswego,  and  Black  Rivers,  in  the  United  States.  It 
is  connected  with  Lake  Erie  by  the  Welland  Canal.  It  contains  a 
number  of  islands,  the  largest  of  which,  Amherst  Island,  is  10  miles 
long,  and  6  miles  broad.  The  waters  of  the  lake  are  very  clear  and 
abound  in  a  variety  of  fine  salmon,  trout,  bass,  and  other  fish. 

A  number  of  steamers  and  other  vessels  are  engaged  in  the  lake 
trade,  which  is  important,  amounting  to  between  $35,000,000  and 
$40,000,000  per  annum. 

During  the  war  of  1812-15,  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain 
maintained  powerful  fleets  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  in  the  course  of  the 
war  several  severe  engagements  occurred  on  the  lake  between  the  op- 
posing forces. 

Besides  the  five  great  lakes  already  described,  there  are  a  number 
of  others  which  will  be  referred  to  in  connection  with  the  States  in 
which  they  are  situated. 

MOUNTAINS. 

The  principal  mountain  ranges  of  the  United  States  are  the  great 
Alleghany  range  on  the  east,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  west. 

THE  ALLEGHANY  OR  APPALACHIAN  MOUNTAINS. 

This  is  the  general  term  applied  to  the  vast  system  of  mountains 
in  the  southeastern  part  of  North  America,  extending  from  Maine  to 
the  northern  part  of  Alabama,  pursuing  in  their  course  a  general 
southwestward  direction.  As  the  range  passes  through  different 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


59 


ALLEGIIANY     MOUNTAINS. 

States,  it  is  called  by  different  names.  The  distance  of  this  chain 
from  the  sea  varies  along  its  course.  In  New  Hampshire,  near  its 
northern  termination,  it  is  less  than  100  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  at 
its  southern  end  the  distance  from  the  sea  is  300  miles.  In  New 
England  and  New  York  the  chain  is  broken  and  irregular,  some  of 
its  ranges  running  almost  north  and  south,  but  in  the  States  south  of 
New  York,  the  ranges  are  very  continuous,  and  run  for  the  most  part 
parallel  to  the  main  ridge.  In  common  usage,  the  term  Alleghany 
Mountains  applies  almost  exclusively  to  that  portion  of  the  range 
lying  in  and  south  of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania.  The  AYhite  Moun- 
tains of  New  Hampshire,  and  the  Adirondacks  of  New  York,  are 
considered  outliers  of  this  great  chain,  as  are  also  the  Catskills,  of  the 
latter  State. 

The  entire  length  of  the  main  range,  not  counting  its  lateral  groups, 
is  1300  miles.  Its  extreme  width,  which  occurs  in  Pennsylvania  and 
Maryland,  about  half  way  in  its  length,  is  100  miles.  The  highest 
summits  of  the  Appalachian  chain  are  Mount  Mitchell,  in  North 
Carolina,  6470  feet,  Mount  Washington,  in  New  Hampshire,  6226 
feet,  and  Mount  Marcy,  in  New  York,  5467  feet,  above  the  level  of 
the  sea. 

The  entire  range  is  rich  in  the  most  interesting  geological  fornia- 


60  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

tions.  Nearly  all  the  minerals  known  to  the  Continent  are  found  in 
these  mountains.  The  scenery  is  grand,  and  the  atmosphere  pure  and 
invigorating.  Numerous  railroads  cross  the  range,  or  pierce  it  with 
their  tunnels. 

The*  great  western  range  is  known  as 

THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 

These  are  a  continuation  northward  of  the  Cordilleras  of  Central 
America  and  Mexico.  They  enter  the  United  States  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  Territories,  near  latitude  31° 
30'  N.,  and  pass  up  the  entire  western  side  of  the  Republic,  into 
British  America.  They  are  divided  into  several  ranges,  and  cover  an 
area  1000  miles  wide  from  east  to  west. 

The  most  easterly  range  extends  through  New  Mexico,  Colorado, 
Wyoming,  and  Montana  Territories,  and  forms  the  boundary  between 
Wyoming  and  Idaho,  and  Idaho  and  Montana.  It  includes  the  Span- 
ish Peaks,  Pike's  Peak,  and  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  the  last  of 
which  contain  Fremontys  Peak,  13,570  feet  high.  West  of  this  great 
range  is  a  smaller  one,  called  the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  lying  south  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake.  These  mountains,  under  other  names,  pass 
northward,  to  the  east  of  Salt  Lake.  In  Utali  they  cover  a  wide 
district,  and  their  ridges  spread  out  in  various  directions.  The  ridge 
known  as  the  Uintah  Mountains  extends  east  and  west. 

The  western  division  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  enters  the  State  of 
California  from  the  Peninsula  of  Old  California,  and  soon  breaks  into 
two  ranges,  the  lowest  of  which,  known  as  the  Coast  Range,  runs 
parallel  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  at  a  distance  of  from  10  to  50  miles 
from  the  sea  until  the  northern  part  of  California  is  reached,  when  it 
rejoins  the  higher  range,  which  is  called  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which 
runs  parallel  to  the  Coast  Range,  at  a  distance  of  160  miles  from  the 
sea.  From  the  point  of  the  reunion  of  its  branches  the  range  pursues 
its  way  north \vard  into  British  America,  the  two  ridges  being  again 
divided  in  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory,  the  lesser  retaining  its 
own  name,  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  being  styled  the  Cascade  Range. 
The  summits  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  are  generally  above  the  line  of 
perpetual  snow,  while  the  Coast  Range  has  an  average  height  of  from 
2000  to  3000  feet.  Several  of  its  peaks,  however,  rise  to  more  than 
double  that  altitude.  Mount  Ripley  is  7500  feet,  and  Mount  St.  John 
8000  feet  high.  Mount  Linn  is  still  higher,  but  its  exact  altitude  has 
not  yet  been  ascertained.  Mount  Shasta,  at  the  point  of  the  union  of 
the  two  ranges  in  Northern  California,  is  14,440  feet  high. 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


61 


UOCKY     MOUNTAINS. 

"Between  the  highest  ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  east, 
and  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Cascade  Range  on  the  west,  is  a  vast  region 
of  table  land,  which  in  its  widest  part  extends  through  fourteen  de- 
grees of  longitude ;  that  is  about  700  miles  from  east  to  west.  Humboldt, 
in  his  'Aspects  of  Nature/  observes  that  the  Rocky  Mountains,  be* 
tween  37°  and  43°,  present  lofty  plains  of  an  extent  hardly  met  with 
in  any  other  part  of  the  globe ;  having  a  breadth  from  east  to  west 
twice  as  great  as  the  plateaus  of  Mexico.  In  the  western  part  of  the 
great  central  plateaus  above  described,  lies  the  Great  Basin,  otherwise 
called  Fremont's  Basin,  from  its  having  been  first  explored  by  Colonel 
Fremont.  It  is  situated  between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Wahsatch 
Mountains,  and  is  bounded  on  every  side  with  high  hills  or  moun- 
tains. It  is  about  500  miles  in  extent,  from  east  to  west,  and  350 
from  north  to  south.  It  is  known  to  contain  a  number  of  lakes  and 
rivers,  none  of  whose  waters  ever  reach  the  ocean,  being  probably 
taken  up  by  evaporation,  or  lost  in  the  sand  of  the  more  arid  districts. 
As  far  as  known,  the  lakes  of  this  basin  are  salt,  except  Utah  Lake. 
The  largest  of  these,  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  is  filled  with  a  saturated 
solution  of  common  salt;  it  has  an  elevation  of  4200  feet  above  the 


sea. 


Lippincott's  Gazetteer. 


G2  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Owing  to  the  broad  base  and  gentle  rise  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Range,  it  is  crossed  with  comparatively  little  difficulty.  Its  passes 
are  among  the  finest  on  the  globe,  and  will  vie  in  grandeur  of  scenery 
with  any  of  those  of  the  old  world. 

We  have  already  spoken  of  the  rivers  which  rise  upon  the  slopes 
of  this  great  range,  and  shall  pass  them  by  for  the  present,  to  return  to 
them  again  in  other  portions  of  this  work. 

SOIL. 

The  soil  of  the  United  States  "  presents  almost  every  variety,  from 
the  dry  sterile  plains  in  the  region  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  to  the  rich 
alluviums  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  It  can  most  conveniently  be 
described  by  following  the  seven  great  divisions  indicated  by  the  river 
system  of  the  country,  viz.,  the  St.  Lawrence  basin,  the  Atlantic  slope, 
the  Mississippi  Valley,  the  Texas  slope,  the  Pacific  slope,  the  inland 
basin  of  Utah,  sometimes  called  the  Great  or  Fremont  Basin,  and  the 
basin  of  the  Red  River  of  the  north.  1.  The  St.  Lawrence  basin 
embraces  parts  of  Vermont,  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Indi- 
ana, Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  Minnesota,  and  all  of  Michigan ;  it  is 
an  elevated  and  fertile  plain,  generally  well  wooded.  2.  The  Atlantic 
slope  includes  all  New  England  except  a  part  of  Vermont ;  all  of 
New  Jersey,  Delaware,  the  District  of  Columbia,  South  Carolina,  and 
Florida ;  and  portions  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  Vir- 
ginia, North  Carolina,  Georgia,  Alabama,  and  Mississippi.  It  may 
be  subdivided  into  two  regions,  a  N.  E.  section  and  a  S.  W.  section, 
separated  by  the  Hudson  River.  The  former  is  hilly,  and  generally 
better  adapted  to  grazing  than  tillage,  though  some  parts  of  it  are 
naturally  fertile,  and  a  large  proportion  is  carefully  cultivated.  The 
S.  W.  section  may  be  again  divided  into  a  coast  belt  from  30  to  150 
miles  in  width,  running  from  Long  Island  Sound  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  including  the  whole  peninsula  of  Florida;  and  an 
inland  slope  from  the  mountains  towards  this  coast  belt.  The  former, 
as  far  south  as  the  Roanoke  River,  is  sandy  and  not  naturally  fertile, 
though  capable  of  being  made  highly  productive;  from  the  Roanoke 
to  the  Mississippi  it  is  generally  swampy,  with  sandy  tracts  here  and 
there,  and  a  considerable  portion  of  rich  alluvial  soil.  The  inland 
slope  is  one  of  the  finest  districts  in  the  United  States,  the  soil  con- 
sisting for  the  most  part  of  alluvium  from  the  mountains  and  the  de- 
composed primitive  rocks  which  underlie  the  surface.  3.  The  Mis- 
sissippi Valley  occupies  more  than  two-fifths  of  the  area  of  the 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  63 

Republic,  and  extends  from  the  Alleghany  to  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  British  North  America,  thus  includ- 
ing parts  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  Virginia,  North 
Carolina,  Georgia,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  Louisiana,  Texas,  New 
Mexico,  Indiana,  Ohio,  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  Minnesota,  and  all 
of  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Arkansas,  Missouri,  Iowa,  Nebraska,  and 
Kansas,  and  the  Territories  north  of  Nebraska  and  east  of  the  moun- 
tains. It  is  for  the  most  part  a  prairie  country,  of  fertility  unsur- 
passed by  any  region  on  the  globe,  except  perhaps  the  Valley  of  the 
Amazon.  The  ground  in  many  places  is  covered  with  mould  to  the 
depth  of  several  feet,  in  some  instances  to  the  depth  of  25  feet.  The 
northwest  part  of  the  valley,  however,  offers  a  strong  contrast  to  the 
remainder.  There  is  a  desert  plateau  200  to  400  miles  wide,  lying 
at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  at  an  elevation  2000  to  5000 
feet,  above  the  sea,  part  of  it  incapable  of  cultivation  on  account  of  the 
deficiency  of  rain  and  lack  of  means  of  irrigation,  and  part  naturally 
sterile.  4.  The  Texas  slope  includes  the  southwestern  country  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley,  drained  by  rivers  which  flow  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  and  embracing  nearly  all  of  Texas,  and  portions  of  Louisiana 
and  New  Mexico.  It  may  be  divided  into  three  regions :  a  coast  belt 
from  30  to  60  miles  wide,  low,  level,  and  very  fertile,  especially  in 
the  river  bottoms ;  a  rich,  rolling  prairie,  extending  from  the  coast 
belt  about  150  or  200  miles  inland,  and  admirably  suited  for  grazing; 
and  a  lofty  table-land  in  the  northwest,  utterly  destitute  of  trees, 
scantily  supplied  with  grass,  and  during  a  part  of  the  year  parched 
with  complete  drought.  Almost  the  only  arable  land  in  this  section 
is  found  in  the  valleys  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  a  few  other  streams. 
5.  The  Pacific  slope,  embracing  the  greater  part  of  California,  Oregon, 
and  Washington  Territory,  and  parts  of  New  Mexico  and  Utah,*  is 
generally  sterile.  That  part,  however,  between  the  Coast  Range  and 
the  ocean,  and  the  valleys  between  the  Coast  Range,  and  the  Cascade 
Range  and  Sierra  Nevada,  are  very  fertile,  and  the  same  may  be  said 
of  a  few  valleys  and  slopes  among  the  Wahsatch  and  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, though  these  are  better  adapted  to  pasturage  than  to  anything 
else.  6.  Tlie  great  inland  basin  of  Utah,  which  includes  besides 
Utah  parts  of  New  Mexico,  California,  Oregon,  and  Washington,  is 
probably  the  most  desolate  portion  of  the  United  States.  It  abounds 

*  To  this  add  a  part  of  Colorado,  and  all  of  Nevada  and  Idaho,  formerly 
included  in  Oregon,  and  in  Utah  and  Washington  Territories. 


64  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

in  salt  lakes,  and  there  are  only  a  few  valleys  where  the  soil  acquires 
by  irrigation  enough  fertility  to  afford  a  support  for  man.  7.  That 
portion  of  the  basin  of  the  Red  River  of  the  north  which  belongs  to 
the  United  States  is  confined  to  the  small  tract  in  the  northern  part 
of  Dacotah  and  Minnesota ;  it  contains  some  very  productive  lands, 
especially  in  the  river  bottoms."  * 


CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  the  United  States  is  varied.  It  could  not  possibly 
be  uniform  in  a  country  presenting  such  a  wide  diversity  of  physical 
features  in  its  various  parts.  In  Florida,  the  thermometer  does  not 
vary  over  twelve  degrees  during  the  year,  but  in  the  remainder  of 
the  country  the  climate  is  exceedingly  variable,  and  the  changes  are 
sudden  and  severe,  often  ranging  over  thirty  degrees  in  the  course  of 
a  few  hours.  Alternations  from  rain  to  drought  are  also  as  common 
and  severe  as  those  from  heat  to  cold  and  from  cold  to  heat.  The 
summers  are  always  hot.  The  thermometer  frequently  ranges  as  high 
as  110°  F.  In  the  North,  however,  the  hot  weather  does  not  con- 
tinue in  full  vigor  for  more  than  a  few  days  at  a  time,  and  in  the 
South,  the  heat  is  seldom  so  extreme,  though  it  continues  for  a  longer 
time.  California  has  a  climate  as  mild  as  that  of  Italy,  but  the 
North-Eastern  States  are  swept  by  the  chill  winds  from  Ihe  Atlantic 
and  the  ice  fields  of  British  America.  The  great  lakes  mitigate  to  a 
considerable  extent  the  temperature  of  the  country  around  them.  A 
similar  effect  is  produced  upon  the  temperature  of  their  surrounding 
regions  by  the  elevated  plains  of  New  Mexico,  Utah,  and  Oregon. 
The  following  table  shows  the  average  temperature  of  each  of  the 
seasons  of  the  year  on  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts  and  in  the 
interior : 


PUCK  OF  OBSERVATION. 

Latitude. 

Spring. 

Summer. 

Autumn. 

Winter. 

Year. 

Fortress  Monroe  die:ir  Norfolk   Va  ) 

37° 

5G'87° 

76-57° 

61-68° 

40-45° 

58-89° 

F.n-t  Columbus  (New  York  Harbor)  

40°  42' 

48-74° 

72-10° 

54-55° 

31-38° 

51-69° 

Fort  Sullivan  (Kastport,  Maine) 

44°  15' 

40-15° 

60-50° 

47-52° 

23-90° 

43-02° 

St.  Louis,  Missouri  

38°  40' 

54-15° 

76-19° 

55-44° 

32-27° 

54-51° 

Chicago,  Illinois    . 

41°  52' 

44-90° 

67-33° 

48-85° 

25-90° 

4fi-75° 

Fort  Riplev,  Minnesota  

46°  1  9' 

39-33° 

64-94° 

42-91° 

10-01° 

39-30° 

Monterey,  Oil  if  -ruin  

36°  36' 

53-99° 

58-64° 

57-990 

51-290 

55-990 

San  Francisco,  California  

37°  48' 

54-41° 

57-33° 

56-83° 

50-86° 

54-88° 

t  Astoria,  Oregon  

40"  11' 

51-16° 

61-58° 

53-76° 

42-43° 

52-23° 

*  Appleton's  Cyclopaedia,  vol.  xv.  p.  716.     f  Id.  p.  717. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  65 

Rain  is  abundant  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  Union,  and  is  distributed 
over  the  country  in  a  very  nearly  equal  degree  throughout  the  year. 
In  the  Atlantic  States  south  of  Washington  City,  the  fall  is  less  regu- 
lar than  in  the  States  north  of  the  Capital,  but  is  more  plentiful  than 
in  the  latter,  and  occurs  more  frequently  in  summer  than  in  winter.  On 
the  Pacific  coast,  the  fall  of  rain  is  periodical,  occurring  chiefly  in  the 
winter  and  spring,  and  south  of  the  fortieth  parallel  of  North  latitude, 
in  the  autumn  also.  Very  little  rain  falls  between  the  Cascade  Range 
and  the  one-hundredth  meridian  of  West  longitude.  When  rain  does 
visit  this  region,  it  comes  in  violent  showers,  which  are  especially 
severe  in  the  mountains.  The  annual  fall  in  the  desert  region  through 
which  the  Colorado  flows,  is  estimated  at  3  inches;  in  the  great  plain 
south  of  the  Columbia  River,  10  inches;  in  the  desert  east  of  tVie 
Rocky  Mountains,  from  15  to  20  inches.  Scarcely  any  of  this  falls 
in  the  summer.* 

Snow  falls  in  the  Northern  States  to  a  considerable  depth.  In  the 
Lake  Superior  country,  more  or  less  snow  falls  every  day  during  the 
winter,  and  remains  on  the  ground  until  the  spring.  It  is  compara- 
tively rare  south  of  the  James  River,  in  Virginia,  and  does  not  remain 
on  the  ground  very  long.  In  the  Gulf  States,  it  is  scarcely  ever  seen 
except  in  the  extreme  northern  portion. 

The  most  dangerous  local  diseases,  of  the  New  England  and  Middle 
States,  are  pulmonary  complaints;  of  the  Southern  States,  bilious 
fevers,  and  yellow  fever  along  the  Gulf  coast ;  of  the  Western  States, 
intermittent  and  bilious  fevers,  and  dysentery.  The  "fever  and  ague" 
prevails  chiefly  in  new  regions,  and  disappears  as  they  become  thickly 
settled. 

The  following  table,  taken  from  the  eighth  census  of  the  United 
States,  will  show  the  ratio  of  mortality  in  each  State,  for  the  year  end- 
ing June  1st,  1860: 

*  Appleton's  Cyclopaedia. 


66 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


STATES  AND  TERRITORIES. 

Deaths. 

Population 
to  one  death. 

Deaths. 
Per  cent. 

12,759 
8,885 
3,704 
6,138 
1,246 
1,704 
12,816 
19,299 
15,325 
7,259 
1,443 
16,466 
12,234 
7.614 
7,370 
21,303. 
7,390 
1,108 
12,213 
17,652 
4,4C9 
7,525 
46,881 
11,602 
24,724 
237 
30,214 
2,479 
9,745 
15,153 
9,377 
3,355 
22,472 
7,141 

74 
43 
101 
74 
89 
78 
81 
87 
87 
92 
73 
69 
57 
81 
92 
57 
100 
153 
64 
66 
72 
88 
82 
84 
93 
218 
95 
69 
71 
72 
63 
92 
70 
107 

1-34 
2-0(> 
0-99 
1-35 
1-13 
1-28 
$•28 
1-H 
1-15 
1*0 
1-.V7 
1-4-3 
1-70 
1-23 
1-09 
1.70 
1-00 
0-65 
1-57 
1-52 
1-39 
1-14 
1-22 
119 
1-07 
0-46 
1-06 
1-44 
1-41 
1-39 
1-58 
1-08 
1-43 
0-93 

California      *  *  

Florida                                                                      

Georgia       

Illinois                                            

Maine             .     ,..'  

Maryland                                             

Michigan                       

New   York            

North  Carolina            

Ohio                                                             .            .               

Virginia                           

Colorado  

Dacotah..  

4 

381 

Nebraska  

75 

1-34 

Nevada  

New  Mexico  
Utah   

1,305 
374 
50 
1,285 

71 
106 
228 
58 

1-42 
0-94 
0-44 
1-72 

District  of  Columbia 

Total   United  States 

392,821 

79 

1-27 

From  this  table,  it  will  be  seen  that  Washington  Territory  is  the 
first  in  point  of  health  fulness,  Oregon  second,  Minnesota  third,  Wis- 
consin fourth,  Utah  fifth,  California  sixth,  Massachusetts  twenty-ninth, 
and  Arkansas  thirtieth. 

MINERAL  WEALTH. 

The  mineral  productions  of  the  United  States  are  varied  and  ex- 
tensive. Coal  exists  in  all  the  States  except  Maine,  Vermont,  New 
Hampshire,  New  Jersey,  Delaware,  South  Carolina,  Mississippi,  and 
Wisconsin.  Three  distinct  qualities  are  found— anthracite,  bitumi- 
nous and  semi-bituminous.  In  1860,  the  production  amounted  to — 

Of  anthracite 9,398,332  tons. 

Of  bituminous 5,775,077     " 

Total 15,173,409     " 

There  are  valuable  and  extensive  beds  of  marl  in  Maine,  New  Jer- 
sey, Maryland,  Virginia,  and  several  other  States.  Salt  springs,  some 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  67 

of  them  of  very  great  strength  and  value,  are  found  in  New  York, 
Michigan,  Virginia,  Kentucky,  and  Arkansas.  Nitrates  of  soda  and 
potassa  are  found  in  the  caves  of  Virginia,  Kentucky,  and  Arkansas, 
while  the  plains  of  the  great  American  desert  and  the  eastern  slopes 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  furnish  considerable  quantities  of  nitrate  and 
carbonate  of  soda.  Gypsum,  or  sulphate  of  lime,  is  found  in  Maine, 
Maryland,  and  Texas,  and  in  portions  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona. 
Marble,  of  every  variety  required  for  building,  exists  in  nearly  all  the 
States.  In  those  bordering  on  the  Mississippi,  a  fine,  compact  car- 
bonate of  lime  supplies  its  place.  Iron  exists  in  every  State  and  Ter- 
ritory, and  in  every  form  known,  from  the  bog  ore,  which  contains 
about  20  per  cent,  of  iron,  to  the  pure  metal.  In  the  year  1860,  the 
total  product  of  iron  ore  taken  from  the  mines  was  estimated  at 
2,514,282  tons.  Of  this  amount,  Pennsylvania  produced  1,706,470 
tons.  There  are  small  quantities  of  lead  in  a  large  number  of  the 
States;  but  Missouri,  Arkansas,  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  Illinois,  alone, 
contain  the  great  lead  deposits  of  the  country.  An  incomplete  return 
for  1860,  places  the  value  of  the  lead  production  of  the  Union  at 
$977,281.  The  great  copper  region  of  the  Union  lies  along  the  shores 
of  Lake  Superior,  but  the  metal  has  been  found  in  considerable  quan- 
tities in  Connecticut,  New  Jersey,  Virginia,  North  Carolina,  Georgia, 
and  Tennessee.  The  ore  found  in  the  Lake  Superior  region,  yields 
from  71  to  90  per  cent,  of  pure  copper.  The  total  product  for  1860 
was  14,432  tons,  valued  at  $3,316,516.  Zinc  is  found  in  Pennsyl- 
vania and  New  Jersey — the  yield  in  the  former  State,  in  1860,  being 
11,800  tons,  valued  at  $72,600.  Tin  is  found  in  Maine,  to  some  ex- 
tent, and  also  in  California.  Silver  is  found  in  connection  with  almost 
all  the  deposits  of  lead  and  copper ;  and  in  Nevada,  Arizona  and  New 
Mexico,  extensive  veins  of  a  fine  quality  exist.  These  are  being  well 
worked,  but  at  present  there  is  no  accurate  return  of  the  total  products 
of  the  mines.  Silver  also  exists  in  California,  North  Carolina  and 
Colorado.  Small  quantities  of  gold  exist  in  Maine,  Vermont,  New 
Hampshire,  Alabama,  and  Tennessee.  The  gold  veins  are  more  im- 
portant in  Virginia  and  Georgia,  which  formerly  furnished  the  greater 
part  of  the  gold  found  in  the  United  States.  The  mines  of  the  At- 
lantic States,  however,  are  comparatively  neglected  at  present  for  those 
of  the  Pacific  States.  Immense  deposits  of  gold  exist  in  California, 
Oregon,  Washington,  Nevada,  Arizona,  New  Mexico,  Colorado,  and 
Dacotah.  Platinum  and  mercury  are  also  found  in  California — tin 
former  in  small  quantities,  but  the  yield  of  the  latter  is  so  great  as  I? 


68  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

almost  supply  the  demand  for  it  for  mining  purposes.  Osmium  and 
iridium  have  been  discovered  in  Oregon.  They  are  used  in  manufac- 
turing gold  pens.  Cobalt  is  found  in  North  Carolina  and  Missouri. 
Pennsylvania,  in  1860,  yielded  2348  tons  of  nickel.  Chromium  ex- 
ists in  Vermont,  New  Jersey,  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Mary- 
land ;  and  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Pennsylvania,  and  South  Caro- 
lina supply  considerable  quantities  of  manganese. 

PRODUCTS    OF    THE    SOIL. 

The  native  vegetation  of  the  United  States  is  too  vast  and  varied 
to  admit  of  a  description  here.  We  can  only  say  that  it  covers  a 
wide  range  of  plants  and  trees,  from  the  giant  trees  of  California  to 
the  tiniest  flower  that  blooms  on  the  hill  side.  Nearly  all  the  prin- 
cipal productions  of  the  frigid,  temperate  and  torrid  zones  are  found 
within  the  limits  of  the  Republic.  None  of  the  great  staples  of  food 
are  natives  of  the  country,  but  have  been  brought  from  other  lands. 
It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  they  have  been  greatly  benefited 
by  the  change,  and  many  of  them  are  produced  here  in  finer  qualities 
than  in  their  old  homes.  Cucumbers,  melons,  squashes,  and  all  the 
edible  Cucurbitacece  are  importations.  So  are  the  most  of  the  fruits, 
especially  the  apple,  pear,  plum,  quince,  and  apricot.  The  edible 
berries,  such  as  the  strawberry,  blackberry,  raspberry,  whortleberry, 
bilberry,  cloudberry,  etc.,  are  natives  of  the  soil.  Cotton,  flax,  and 
hemp  are  naturalized  plants. 

,     ANIMALS. 

The  zoology  of  the  United  States  includes  all  the  animals  found  on 
the  North  American  Continent.  Of  bats,  there  are  three  genera  and 
eleven  species.  The  largest  of  the  Sarcophaga  or  Carnivora,  is  the 
cougar  or  catamount,  which  ranks  next  to  the  lion  and  Bengal  tiger 
in  ferocity  and  strength.  This  animal  is  sometimes  called  the  Amer- 
ican panther,  an  erroneous  appellation,  as  the  panther  is  not  a  native 
of  this  country.  The  wild  cat  or  bay  lynx,  and  the  Canadian  lynx 
are  found.  The  entire  monkey  tribe  is  lacking.  There  are  seven 
species  of  the  fox — the  common  red,  the  cross  fox,  the  black  or  silver, 
the  prairie,  swift,  gray,  and  short-tailed  fox.  The  wolves  are  divided 
into  two  distinct  species,  the  gray  wolf  of  the  woods,  (divided  into 
the  reddish,  black,  and  giant  wolf,)  a  cowardly  animal,  and  the  fero- 
cious prairie  wolf,  which  resembles  the  jackal  of  the  East.  The 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  69 

Digitigrada  consist  of  the  pine  marten  or  American  sable,  the  Ameri- 
can fisher,  the  American  ermine,  the  weasel,  and  two  species  of  mink. 
The  black,  and  the  grisly  bear,  the  badger,  wolverene,  skunk,  and 
raccoon  are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  country.  Several  varieties 
of  the  seal  family  exist.  The  deer,  the  antelope,  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain or  big  horn  sheep,  also  abound.  The  bison,  which  is  usually  but 
incorrectly  called  the  buffalo,  is  found  in  the  far  West.  Nearly  all 
the  birds,  fish,  reptiles,  and  insects  of  America  are  found  in  the  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  Union. 

"  The  domestic  animals  of  the  United  States  have  been,  with  one 
or  two  exceptions,  introduced  from  Europe.  The  horse,  though  not 
native  to  this  continent,  became  wild  at  an  early  period,  and  now 
roams  in  large  herds  in  the  plains  of  Texas,  but  is  domesticated  with- 
out great  difficulty.  There  have  been  at  different  times  stocks  intro- 
duced from  England,  France,  Spain,  and  some  from  Morocco  and 
Arabia ;  much  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  breeding  of  these  ani- 
mals, and  some  of  them  have  not  been  surpassed  in  speed  or  other 
good  points.  The  asses  are  mainly  from  Spain  and  Malta;  the  cattle 
from  Great  Britain ;  the  goats  from  the  south  of  Europe,  though 
some  efforts  have  been  made  to  introduce  Asiatic  species ;  and  the 
sheep  from  the  Southdown,  Saxon,  and  Spanish  Merino  breeds.  The 
swine  are  of  various  stocks;  one  breed,  common  in  Central  and 
Western  Virginia  and  other  mountainous  districts,  is  tall,  long,  and 
gaunt,  and  of  ferocious  nature  and  uncertain  origin ;  but  the  most 
common  breeds  are  the  Berkshire  (English)  and  Chinese,  and  crosses 
upon  these.  Our  domestic  dogs  and  cats  are,  with  few  exceptions, 
of  European  origin.  The  brown  or  Norway  rat  was  an  importation 
from  the  country  whose  name  it  bears,  but  has  now  been  nearly  de- 
stroyed by  a  more  powerful  and  ferocious  black  rat,  said  to  be  from 
the  south  of  Europe.  Efforts  have  been  made,  but  with  no  very 
satisfactory  result,  to  introduce  the  llama  of  South  America  into  our 
mountainous  districts.  The  attempt  to  acclimate  the  Bactrian  camel 
in  Texas  and  California,  gives  promise  of  greater  success."* 

CHARACTERISTICS    OF    POPULATION. 

The  people  of  the  United  States  consist  of  representatives  of  every 
nation  in  Europe,  and  of  many  in  Asia  and  Africa.  For  a  long  time 
after  the  Revolution  the  characteristics  impressed  upon  certain  parts 

*  Appleton's  Cyclopaedia,  vol.  xv.  p.  726. 


70  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  the  country  by  the  original  settlers  remained  in  their  full  force 
with  their  descendants,  but  at  present  the  rush  of  emigration  has  been 
so  great  from  all  parts  of  Europe,  that  these  have  been  either  very 
much  weakened  or  entirely  destroyed. 

The  New  England  States  were  originally  settled  by  the  Puritans, 
and  to  the  present  day  still  retain  many  of  the  strongest  of  the  pecu- 
liarities of  their  forefathers.  Tiie  gradual  but  steady  increase  of  their 
Irish  population  is  working  great  changes,  however,  in  these  States. 
The  city  of  Boston  is  being  especially  affected  in  this  manner.  New 
York  was  settled  by  emigrants  from  Holland,  and  though  the  eastern 
portion  of  the  State  has  scarcely  any  traces  of  its  origin  left,  the  inte- 
rior possesses  still  many  communities,  which  not  only  retain  very 
many  of  the  customs  and  characteristics  of  the  old  settlers,  but  in 
which,  until  a  very  recent  period,  the  Dutch  language  was  spoken  to 
a  considerable  extent  by  those  born  on  the  soil.  Maryland  was 
settled  by  Catholics,  who  have  not  yet  lost  their  controlling  influence 
in  the  State.  Delaware  and  New  Jersey  were  settled  by  the  Swedes. 
Pennsylvania  was  colonized  by  English  Quakers,  who  were  followed 
by  many  German  families.  The  descendants  of  these  classes  still 
control  the  State — the  Quakers,  as  of  old,  living  in  the  eastern,  and 
the  Germans  in  the  southwestern,  western,  and  central  portions. 
Virginia  was  settled  by  the  English,  who  were  followed  by  many 
French  Huguenots  and  Germans.  These  settled  in  three  distinct 
parts  of  the  State — the  first  settlers  along  the  Chesapeake  Bay  and 
ite  tributaries,  the  French  along  the  Upper  James,  above  the  falls, 
and  the  Germans  in  the  rich  valley  of  the  Shenandoah.  These  dis- 
tinctions were  strongly  preserved  as  late  as  the  period  of  the  rebel- 
lion. North  Carolina  was  settled  by  non-conformists  from  Virginia. 
South  Carolina,  by  English  Churchmen  and  French  Huguenots,  who 
had  not  lost  the  control  of  the  State  at  the  time  of  the  rebellion. 
Georgia  by  English  prisoners  for  debt,  followed  by  other  classes  from 
the  mother  country.  Louisiana  was  settled  by  the  French,  and  was 
inhabited  chiefly  by  them  when  purchased  from  the  French  crown. 
Texas  and  California  were  originally  Spanish,  and,  to  a  great  extent, 
are  still  so.  The  latter  State  has  a  strong  Chinese  element  in  it. 
Florida  was  originally  Spanish,  and  still  retains  its  original  character- 
istics along  the  Gulf  Coast.  The  other  States  and  the  Territories 
were  settled  by  ad  venturers  from  the  older  portions  of  the  country, 
and  by  emigrants  from  Europe,  who  still  continue  to  flock  to  our 
shores  in  great  numbers.  The  following  tables  will  show  the  number 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


of  arrivals  of  emigrants  in  this  country  for  a  period  of  fifty-one  years, 
or  from  January  1st,  1820,  to  September  30th,  1870,  their  national- 
ities and  destinations : 


Wholly  or  mainly  of  English 
Speech. 

Wholly  or  mainly  of  Slavic  Races. 
Russia  2,930 

Miquelon  3 

Corsica        11 

Sicily  675 

England  501,316 
Ireland                                   1  406  030 

Poland  3,955 
Hungary  488 

Total  French,  etc  377,889 

Wholly  or  mainly  of  Asiatic  Races. 
China  .          108,610 

Scotland  82,403 

\\"ales                              .           12  213 

Wholly  or  mainly  French,  Spanish, 
Portuguese  and  Italian. 

Other  Great  Britain  1,824,078 
British  America    271  185 

\ustralia                .                       246 

India                                               178 

A/ores  6,636 

AraMa  33 

Bermudas  61 
St.  Helena  33 

Spain  23,090 

Syria  4 
Persia  14 

Cape  of  Good  Hope  88 
New  Zealand  17 
Sandwich  Islands  35 
Malta  127 

Italy  23,387 
Sardinia  2,103 
Mexico  20,039 

Asia  (general)  24. 
East  India  Islands  79 
Society  Islands  7 
Pacific  Islands  5 

Total  English  speech  ...4,104,553 

Wtolltj  or  mninly  of  Germanic 
and  Scandinavian  Speech. 

Guiana  53 
Venezuela  40 
peru                                     .            3ft 

Total  Asiatic  109,169 

Wholly  or  mainb/  of  African  Na- 
tions, with  Turkey  and  Greece. 
Liberia  64. 
KfP*-:  2° 

Chili  28 

Brazil  45 
Buenos  Ayres  7 
Bolivia  3 

Prussia  100,983 
Austria  7,904 
Sweden  and  Norway  151,104 
Denmark  23,221 

New  Granada  2 
Paraguay  1 
Other  South  America......       7,407 
Cuba  3,960 
Hayti  81 

Abyssinia  o 
Africa  (general)  471 
Barbary  States  11 
Turkey  299 
Greece  195 

Holland  30,905 
Belgium  16,850 
Switzerland  61,269 
Iceland           .                                11 

Porto  Rico  50 
Other  West  Indies  45,458 
Cape  de  Verdes  71 

Total,  Africa,  etc  1,065 

From  countries  not  speci- 
fied                                      205  $07 

Total  Germanic  2,643,069 

Madeira  313 
Canaries  290 

Aggregate  since  1820  7,448,925 

NUMBER   OF  EMIGRANTS  IN  EACH  TEAR. 


1820  

8385 

1833  . 

58  640 

1846 

154416 

1859  

121,282 

1821  i  

9,130 

1834  

65  365 

1847 

234  968 

I860  

153,640 

1822  

6,911 

1835  .. 

45  374 

1848 

226  527 

1861  

91,920 

1823      

€  354 

1836 

76  242 

1849 

297  041 

1862     

91,987 

1824 

7  912 

1837 

79  340 

18r)0 

369  96'i 

1863 

176  282 

1825  

10199 

1838 

38  914 

1851 

379  466 

193,418 

f826  

10837 

1839 

68  072 

1852 

37l'603 

1865  

248,120 

1827 

18  875 

1840 

84  006 

1853 

368  645 

1866      ...  . 

318  554 

1828  

27382 

1841 

80  ^89 

1854 

497  $33 

1867  

298.358 

1829      .  ..  . 

22  520 

1842 

104  565 

5855 

200  877 

1868   

297,215 

1830 

23  322 

1843 

52  496 

1856 

200  4  '36 

1869 

385  287 

1831  
1832 

22,633 
60  482 

1844  
1845 

78,615 

1857  

251,306 

1870  (9  mos.)  .... 

285,422 

Total  7 

,448,925 

AVOWED  DESTINATION  OF  EMIGRANTS  LANDED  AT  CASTLE  GARDEN,  FROM 
AUGUSTl,  1855,  TO  JANUARY  I,  1870,  BEING  2,340,928  PASSENGERS. 

Colorado 170 

New  Mexico 50 

Idaho 32 

Dacotah 

Montana 33 

Utah 23,735 

Wyoming 5 

Total  Pacific  States 47,172 

Southeastern  States. 

Virginia 8,235 

West  Virginia 172 

North  Carolina 784 

South  Carolina 1,854 

Georgia 1,623 

Florida 199 

Alabama 577 

Total  Southeast.  States.  13,444 


New  York  and  undecided.. 

Eastern  States. 
Maine  

972,267 

Northwestern  State 
Ohio  

I. 

120,428 
52,205 
29,576 
213,315 
121,660 
29,360 
44,286 
44,309 
5,052 
4,198 

4.013 

2,859 
4,405 
111,129 
21,430 

Indiana  

New  Hampshire  

Illinois  

Massachusetts  
Rhode  Island  

Minnesota  
Iowa  

Connecticut  
Total  Eastern  States.... 

Central  States. 
New  Jersey  

39,169 
183,005 

63,109 
224,880 
18,033 
2,011 
9,129 

Missouri  
Kansas  

Nebraska  

Total  Northwest.  States. 

Pacific  States  and  Tern 
Nevada  

664,389 

tories. 

80 
22,823 
189 
6 

Maryland  

District  of  Columbia  
Total  Central  States.., 

California  
Oregon  

317,162 

Washington  Territory  

72  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

AVOWED  DESTINATION  OF  EMIGRANTS-  Continued 


Kouinwesiem  siaies. 

Canada  

50,828 

Bermuda  

2 

Missouri  

11  657 

New  Brunswick  

1,028 

Sandwich  Islands  .... 

1 
1 

Tennessee  

4,171 

New  Dominion  

816 

British  Columbia  

46G 

Arkansas  
Mississippi  

302 
603 

Cuba  

349 
210 

Japan  

1 
6 

Louisiana  
Texas  

Total  Southwest.  States. 

4,353 
1,522 

~66^9lY 

West  Indies  
Central  America  
Vancouver's  Island  

141 
113 

6 

Unknown  
Total  

22,035 

76,572 

Previous  to  1820,  no  exact  account  was  kept  of  the  arrivals  of  emi- 
grants from  foreign  countries;  but  as  near  as  can  be  ascertained,  the 
number  was  as  follows : 

From  1790  to  1800 50,000 

"       1800  "  1810 70,000 

"       1810  "   1820  -    .  114,000 


Total 234,000 

This  added  to  the  number  of  emigrants  since  1820,  gives  a  total 
number  of  7,682,925  emigrants  since  the  formation  of  the  Federal 
Government.  During  the  present  year,  1871,  the  number  of  arrivals 
will  be  unusually  large,  if  the  rate  which  has  marked  the  first  portion 
of  it  is  continued  throughout  the  year. 

AGRICULTURE. 

Agriculture  is  the  principal  interest  of  the  United  States,  and  is 
growing  in  importance  every  year.  A  brief  glance  at  each  of  the 
great  staples  in  detail  will  be  interesting  and  useful. 

Maize,  or  Indian  Corn.  Maize  is  the  principal  production  of  the 
United  States,  and  is  cultivated  in  every  State  and  Territory  of  the 
Republic.  It  is  best  adapted  to  the  soil  and  climate  of  the  country, 
and  furnishes  the  largest  amount  of  nutritive  food.  It  is  generally  a 
sure  crop  where  it  is  properly  cultivated.  The  method  of  cultivation 
is  substantially  that  of  the  Indians,  from  whom  the  white  settlers 
learned  it  in  1608,  in  which  year  they  first  planted  it  in  the  vicinity 
of  Jamestown.  At  present  the  yield  varies  from  20  to  135  bushels 
to  the  acre.  In  1870,  the  total  product  of  the  country  amounted  to 
769,944,549  bushels.  The  States  which  produced  the  greatest  num- 
ber of  bushels  that  year,  stand  as  follows:  Illinois,  129,921,395 
bushels;  Missouri,  66,034,075  bushels;  Ohio,  67,501,144  bushels; 
Indiana,  51,094,538  bushels;  Kentucky,  50,091,006  bushels;  Ten- 
nessee. 41,343,614  bushels;  and  Iowa,  68,935,065  bushels.  The 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  T3 

product  of  the  other  States  ranged  from  9000  to  63,000,000  bushels. 
The  first  was  the  yield  of  Nevada,  the  smallest  of  all. 

Wheat.  This  grain  ranks  next  to  Indian  Corn  in  importance,  and 
when  the  climate  and  soil  are  adapted  to  its  growth,  is  preferred  by 
the  American  farmer  to  all  others.  Considerable  care  is  exercised  in 
its  culture,  and  the  greatest  ingenuity  has  been  displayed  in  the  effort 
to  improve  the  means  of  cultivation,  and  with  best  results.  The 
wheat  region  of  the  United  States,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is 
situated  between  the  30th  and  50th  parallels  of  North  latitude.  On 
the  Pacific  coast,  however,  it  extends  several  degrees  farther  north. 
As  a  general  rule  the  wheat  of  America,  especially  that  of  the  great 
wheat  producing  States  of  the  Atlantic  coast,  is  superior  to  any  other 
in  the  world.  At  the  London  Exhibition,  wheat  from  Genesee  County, 
New  York,  won  the  prize  medal  from  the  Royal  Commissioners. 
The  total  yield  of  wheat  for  1870  amounted  to  287,745,626  bushels. 
The  product  of  the  principal  wheat  producing  States  was  as  follows  : 
Illinois,  30,128,405  bushels;  Wisconsin,  25,616,344  bushels;  Iowa, 
29,435,692  bushels;  Indiana,  27,747,222  bushels;  Ohio,  27,882,159 
bushels;  California,  16,676,702  bushels;  and  Pennsylvania,  19,672,- 
967  bushels. 

Rye  is  raised  in  all  the  States,  but  principally  in  the  Eastern  and 
Middle  States.  Pennsylvania,  New  York,  and  New  Jersey  produce 
more  than  half  the  quantity  raised  in  the  whole  country.  There  is 
a  decided  increase  in  the  Western  States,  and  in  Maryland  and  Dela- 
ware. In  the  New  England  States  it  has  decreased.  The  total  pro- 
duct for  1870  was  16,918,795  bushels.  Pennsylvania  raised  3,577,641 
bushels;  New  York,  2,478,125  bushels;  New  Jersey,  566,775  bush- 
els ;  and  Wisconsin,  1,325,294  bushels. 

Barley  is  grown  in  the  Atlantic  States,  between  the  30th  and  50th 
degrees  of  North  latitude,  and  on  the  Pacific  coast  between  the  20th  and 
62nd  degrees  of  North  latitude.  The  two-rowed  barley  is  principally 
cultivated  because  of  the  fulness  of  its  grain,  and  its  exemption  from 
smut.  It  yields  from  30  to  50  bushels  to  the  acre,  and  will  average 
about  50  pounds  to  the  bushel.  Very  little  of  it  is  exported,  as 
nearly  the  whole  crop  is  used  at  home  for  the  manufacture  of  beer, 
ale,  etc.  The  demand  for  it  is  increasing.  The  crop  of  1870 
amounted  to  29,761,305  bushels,  or  more  than  five  times  the  amount 
produced  in  1850.  The  States  yielded  as  follows :  California,  8,783,- 
490  bushels;  New  York,  7,434,621  bushels;  Ohio,  1,715,221  bush- 
els; and  Wisconsin,  1,645,019  bushels.  The  smallest  yield  was  that 
of  Florida,  12  bushels. 


74  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Buckwheat  is  raised  principally  in  the  New  England  and  Middle 
States.  The  average  yield  is  from  30  to  45  bushels  to  the  acre, 
though  in  some  good  soils  it  has  yielded  as  much  as  60  bushels.  The 
crop  of  1870  amounted  to  9,821,721  bushels.  Pennsylvania  pro- 
duced 2,532,173  bushels;  New  York,  3,904,030  bushels ;  and  Ohio, 
180,341  bushels. 

Oats.  This  grain  constitutes  one  of  the  most  important  crops  of 
the  country,  and  flourishes  in  sections  where  the  heat  or  cold  is  too 
great  for  wheat  or  rye.  It  is  grown  principally  in  the  Northern, 
Middle,  and  Western  States.  The  crop  of  1870  amounted  to  282,- 
107,157  bushels.  New  York  produced  35,293,625  bushels;  Penn- 
sylvania, 34,702,006  bushels;  Ohio,  25,347,549  bushels;  Illinois, 
42,780,851  bushels;  Wisconsin  20,180,016  bushels;  and  Iowa,  21,- 
005,142  bushels.  The  smallest  yield  was  that  of  Louisiana,  17,782 
bushels. 

Peas  and  Beans  were  largely  cultivated  by  the  Indians  before  the 
settlement  of  the  country  by  the  whites.  At  present  they  are  grown 
as  a  field  crop,  principally  in  the  Eastern,  Middle,  and  Southern 
States.  The  yield  averages  from  25  to  40  bushels  per  acre,  weighing 
about  64  pounds  per  bushel.  The  crop  of  1870  amounted  to  5,746,- 
027  bushels.  Mississippi  produced  176,417  bushels;  Georgia,  410,- 
020  bushels;  North  Carolina,  532,749  bushels;  South  Carolina, 
460,378  bushels;  and  New  York,  1,152,541  bushels.  The  smallest 
yield  was  that  of  Nevada,  414  bushels. 

Rice  was  first  introduced  into  Virginia  by  Sir  William  Berkeley, 
in  1647;  into  the  Carolinas  in  1694;  and  into  Louisiana  in  1718. 
It  is  confined  chiefly  to  a  few  of  the  extreme  Southern  States,  where 
the  climate  is  favorable  to  it,  and  the  supply  of  water  plentiful.  The 
yield  is  usually  from  20  to  60  bushels  to  the  acre,  weighing  from  45 
to  48  pounds  to  the  bushel,  when  cleaned.  The  yield  for  1870  was 
73,635,021  pounds.  South  Carolina  produced  32,304,825  pounds; 
Georgia,  22,277,380  pounds;  Louisiana,  15,854,012  pounds;  North 
Carolina,  2,059,281  pounds;  Mississippi,  374,627  pounds;  and  Ala- 
bama, 222,945  pounds.  It  has  been  grown  in  Illinois,  California, 
Missouri,  Kentucky,  New  York,  and  Virginia,  though  of  an  inferior 
quality. 

Potatoes.  The  Irish  or  White  Potato  ranks  next  to  wheat  and 
corn  in  the  industry  of  the  Republic.  The  yield  depends  upon  the 
soil  and  climate,  and  the  manner  of  cultivation,  and  varies  from  50  to 
400  bushels,  the  average  being  less  than  200  bushels  to  the  acre.  It 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  75 

suffers  frequently  from  the  "  rot."  The  crop  of  1870  amounted  to 
143,337,473  bushels.  New  York  produced  28,547,593  bushels; 
Pennsylvania,  12,889,367  bushels;  Ohio,  11,192,814  bushels;  and 
Illinois,  10,994,790  bushels;  Indiana,  5,399,044  bushels;  Massachu- 
setts, 3,025,446  bushels;  Michigan,  10,318,799  bushels;  New  Hamp- 
shire, 4,515,419  bushels;  New  Jersey,  4,705,439  bushels;  Vermont, 
5,157,428  bushels;  and  Wisconsin,  6,646,129  bushels. 

Sweet  Potatoes.  The  sweet  potato  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies, 
and  was  introduced  into  the  Colonies  soon  after  the  settlement  of  Vir- 
ginia. It  is  now  extensively  cultivated  in  the  Southern  and  Western 
States.  The  crop  of  1870  amounted  to  21,709,824  bushels.  Georgia 
produced  2,621,562  bushels;  North  Carolina,  3,071,840  bushels; 
Alabama,  1,871,360  bushels;  Mississippi,  1,743,432  bushels;  and 
South  Carolina,  1,205,683  bushels.  Louisiana,  New  Jersey,  Ten- 
nessee, and  Texas  each  produced  over  a  million  of  bushels. 

Hay.  The  production  of  hay  is  confined  principally  to  the  Eastern, 
Middle,  and  Western  States,  comparatively  little  being  raised  in  the 
Southern  States.  The  product  of  1870  amounted  to  27,316,048  tons. 
New  York  produced  5,614,205  tons ;  Pennsylvania,  2,848,219  tons; 
Illinois,  2,747,339  tons ;  and  Ohio,  2,289,565  tons. 

Hops.  The  hop  crop  for  1870  amounted  to  25,456,669  pounds, 
and  of  this  the  State  of  New  York  produced  17,558,681  pounds,  or 
more  than  one-half  of  the  entire  amount  produced  in  the  United 
States. 

Tobacco  is  indigenous  to  Central  America,  and  was  cultivated  in 
various  parts  of  the  Continent  before  the  discovery  by  Europeans. 
Columbus,  in  1492,  was  offered  a  cigar  by  an  Indian  Chief  on  the 
Island  of  Cuba.  In  1585,  Sir  Richard  Greenville  found  it  and  saw 
it  smoked  in  Virginia;  and  in  1616,  it  was  extensively  cultivated  by 
I  the  Colonists  in  that  province.  It  is  cultivated  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent  in  nearly  all  the  States.  The  crop  of  1870  amounted  to  262,- 
735,341  pounds.  Virginia  produced  37,086,364  pounds;  Kentucky, 
105,305,869  pounds;  Tennessee,  21,465,452  pounds;  Maryland,  15,- 
785,339  pounds;  North  Carolina,  11,150,087  pounds;  Ohio,  18,741,- 
973  pounds;  Missouri,  12,320,483  pounds;  and  Connecticut,  Indiana, 
and  Massachusetts  each  produced  more  than  7,000,000  pounds.  The 
rebellion  almost  destroyed  the  cultivation  of  tobacco  in  the  Southern 
States,  and  it  has  not  yet  been  fully  resumed. 

Sugar  and  Molasses.  The  sugar-cane  is  said  to  have  been  intro- 
duced into  Florida,  Louisiana,  and  Texas  at  the  period  of  their  first 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


A  WESTERN  HOMESTEAD. 

settlement  by  the  French  and  Spaniards.  It  does  not  thrive  beyond 
the  33d  degree  of  North  latitude,  or  the  35th  of  South  latitude.  A  very 
small. quantity  (283  hhds.  in  1860)  was  raised  in  the  warmest  section 
of  Wisconsin.  .  The  crop  of  1870  amounted  to  87,043  hogsheads  of 
one  thousand  pounds  each,  of  which  Louisiana  produced  80,706  hhds. 
In  the  same  year  the  amount  of  cane  molasses  manufactured  was  6,- 
593,323  gallons.  Louisiana  produced  4,585,150  gallons. 

About  the  year  1858,  a  hardier  species  called  the  Sorghum,  or  Chi- 
nese sugar-cane,  adapted  to  the  climate  of  nearly  all  the  States,  was 
introduced.  It  has  since  been  extensively  cultivated,  and  is  used  ex- 
clusively for  the  manufacture  of  molasses,  as  it  will  not  produce  sugar. 
In  1870,  while  it  was  yet  new  to  our  people,  the  yield  of  Sorghum 
molasses  was  16,050,089  gallons. 

In  the  same  year,  28,443,645  pounds  of  maple  sugar  were  produced 
in  the  United  States,  and  921,057  gallons  of  maple  molasses.  Of 
maple  sugar,  New  York  produced  6,692,040  pounds ;  Vermont, 
8,894,302  pounds;  Ohio,  3,469,128  pounds;  and  Indiana,  New 
Hampshire,  Michigan,  and  Pennsylvania,  each  over  a  million.  Of 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  U 

maple  molasses,  Ohio  produced  352,612  gallons;  and  Indiana,  227,- 
880  gallons. 

Butter  and  Cheese.  The  total  product  of  butter  for  1870  was  514,- 
092,683  pounds.  Of  this  amount,  New  York- produced  107,147,526 
pounds;  Pennsylvania,  60,834,644  pounds;  Ohio,  50,266,372  pounds; 
Illinois,  36,083,405  pounds;  Indiana,  22,915,385  pounds;  and  Iowa, 
Maine,  Michigan,  Vermont  and  Wisconsin,  each  produced  more  than 
20,000,000  pounds. 

The  amount  of  cheese  produced  in  the  same  year  was  53,492,153 
pounds.  New  York  produced  22,769,964  pounds,  and  Ohio,  8,169,- 
486  pounds. 

Wine.  The  culture  of  the  vine  has  not  yet  attained  the  importance 
which  the  future  holds  out  to  it,  and  the  returns  of  1870  afford  but 
an  indifferent  test  of  the  wine  producing  capacity  of  the  United 
States.  The  yield  in  1870  was  3,092,330  gallons,  a  gain  of  1,132,322 
gallons  over  the  vintage  of  1860.  Of  this,  the  State  of  Ohio  pro- 
duced 212,912  gallons;  California,  1,814,656  gallons ;  New  York, 
82,607  gallons;  North  Carolina,  62,348  gallons;  Illinois,  111,882 
gallons ;  Connecticut,  27,414  gallons ;  and  Virginia,  26,283  gallons. 
The  vine  is  cultivated  in  nearly  all  the  States,  but  the  great  grape 
regions  of  the  country  are  the  Lower  Ohio  Valley,  and  the  Valleys 
of  the  Pacific  coast. 

Cotton.  At  the  outbreak  of  the  Rebellion,  American  Cotton  con- 
trolled the  markets  of  the  world,  as  regards  both  the  quantity  and  the 
quality  furnished;  but  the  war,  by  stopping  the  production  of  cotton, 
by  disorganizing  the  system  of  labor,  and  by  injuring  the  plantations 
in  various  ways,  struck  a  blow  at  this  branch  of  our  industry,  which 
will  damage  it  for  many  years  to  come.  In  some  States  where  free 
labor  has  been  organized  under  control  of  the  old  planters,  happy  re- 
sults have  been  attained,  with  the  brightest  prospects  for  the  future. 

Cotton  is  grown  principally  in  the  extreme  Southern  States.  In 
Virginia  and  North  Carolina  it  is  becoming  less  important  every  year. 
The  yield  for  1860  amounted  to  5,198,077  bales,  of  400  pounds  each. 
This  amount  was  distributed  as  follows : 

Bales. 

Mississippi, 1,195,699 

Alabama, 997,978 

Louisiana, 722,218 

Georgia,.     .     . 701,840 

Texas, 405,100 

Arkansas, 367,485 


78  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Bales. 

South  Carolina, 353,413 

Tennessee, 227,450 

North  Carolina, 145,154 

Florida, 63,322 

Virginia, •  12,727 

Kentucky,  .    - 4>092 

New  Mexico, • 1,133 

Missouri, 10° 

Illinois, 6 

Total, 5,198,077 

The  yield  for  the  year  ending  September  1st,  1870,  was  3,011,996 
bales,  including  90,000  bales  manufactured  in  the  South,  but  counted 
in  the, following  statement  of  the  production  of  each  State. 

Bales. 

Mississippi,      .     .     .     .    , 564,938 

Louisiana, 350,832 

Alabama, 429,482 

Florida, 39,789 

Georgia, 473,934 

Texas, 350,628 

South  Carolina,   . 224,500 

North  Carolina, 144,935 

Virginia, 183 

Tennessee,  Arkansas,  etc., 432,958 

Wool  is  grown  in  all  the  States  to  a  greater  or  less  extent.  The 
yield  for  1870  was  100,102,387  pounds,  of  which  Ohio  produced 
20,539,643  pounds;  New  York,  10,599,225  pounds;  Michigan,  8,- 
726,145  pounds;  California,  1 1,391,743  pounds ;  and  Illinois,  and 
Indiana,  each  over  5,000,000  pounds ;  and  Maine,  New  Hampshire, 
Tennessee  and  Texas,  each  over  1,000,000  pounds. 

Flax  and  Hemp.  Flax  is  a  native  of  Great  Britain,  and  hemp  of 
India.  The  second  was  formerly  cultivated  in  this  country  to  a  greater 
extent  than  at  present,  having  been  to  some  degree  superseded  by  the 
Southern  cotton.  In  1870  the  yield  of  flax  was  7,133,034  pounds — 
more  than  twice  the  amount  grown  in  1850.  New  York  produced  the 
largest  amount,  3,670,818  pounds.  In  the  same  year  1,730,444  bush- 
els of  flax-seed  were  produced,  of  which  Ohio  grew  631,894  bushels. 

Of  hemp,  92,746  tons  were  grown  in  1870.  Kentucky  produced 
7,777  tons.;  and  Missouri  12,816  tons. 

Silk.  Silk  is  said  to  be  a  native  of  Asia.  Its  production  was 
introduced  into  the  colony  of ,  Virginia  in  1622,  into  Louisiana  in 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  79 

1718,  into  Georgia  in  1732,  and  into  Connecticut  in  1760.  The  total 
product  of  silk  cocoons  in  1870  was  3937  pounds,  or  2625  pounds 
less  than  the  yield  of  1860.  California  produced  3587  pounds. 

Orchard  Products.  The  value  of  the  orchard  crop  of  1870 
amounted  to  $47,335,189.  It  was  distributed  amongst  the  leading 
States  as  follows:  New  York,  $8,347,417;  Ohio,  $5,843,679;  Penn- 
sylvania, $4,208,094;  Indiana,  $2,858,086;  Illinois,  $3,571,789. 

Market  Garden  Productions.  These,  in  1870,  amounted  to  $20,- 
719,229,  distributed  among  the  principal  States  as  follows:  New 
York,  $3,432,354 ;  New  Jersey,  $2,978,250;  Pennsylvania,  $1,810,- 
016:  Massachusetts,  $1,980,231  ;  California,  $1,059,779. 

Clover  and  Grass  Seed.  The  yield  of  clover  seed  for  1870  was 
639,657  bushels.  Pennsylvania  produced  200,679  bushels;  Ohio, 
102,355  bushels;  and  New  York,  98,837  bushels. 

The  yield  of  grass-seed  for  the  same  year  was  583,188  bushels,  of 
which  Illinois  produced  153,464  bushels;  and  New  Jersey,  72,401 
bushels. 

Beeswax  and  Honey.  In  1870,  631,129  pounds  of  beeswax  were 
produced  in  the  United  States.  North  Carolina  produced  109,054 
pounds ;  and  New  York  86,333  pounds. 

In  the  same  year,  14,702,815  pounds  of  honey  were  produced. 
Illinois  yielded  1,547,878  pounds;  North  Carolina,  1,404,040 
pounds;  and  Kentucky,  Missouri,  and  Tennessee, each  over  1,000,000 
pounds. 

Value  of  Home-Made  Manufactures.  The  total  value  of  home- 
made manufactures  in  the  United  States,  in  1870,  amounted  to  $23,- 
433,332.  Tennessee  produced  $2,773,820  of  this,  and  Missouri, 
1,737,606. 

The  Value  of  Slaughtered  Animals,  in  1870,  was  $398,956,376. 
Illinois  returned  $56,786,944  of  this  amount,  and  Ohio,  $40,498,375. 

Cash  Value  of  Farms.  In  1870,  the  cash  value  of  farming  lands  in 
the  United  States  amounted  to  $9,262,803,861.  Of  this  amount, 
New  York  possessed  $1,272,857,766 ;  and  Ohio,  $1,054,465,226. 

In  the  same  year  the  farming  implements  and  machinery  in  the 
Union  were  valued  at  $336,878,429.  Those  of  New  York  were 
valued  at  $45,997,712,  and  those  of  Pennsylvania  at  $35,658,196. 


80  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


MANUFACTURES. 

The  three  great  staple  manufactures  of  the  United  States  are  cottons, 
woollens,  and  iron.  These  are  manufactured  in  twenty-five  of  the 
States,  but  principally  in  Massachusetts,  New  Hampshire,  Rhode 
Island,  Pennsylvania,  Connecticut  and  New  York.  The  cotton  manu- 
factures of  the  United  States  rank  next  to  those  of  Great  Britain. 
The  woollen  manufactures  are  of  a  more  recent  date  than  either  of  the 
others,  but  are  growing  in  importance.  In  1860,  there  were  140,433 
establishments  in  the  Union  engaged  in  manufactures,  mining  and 
the  mechanic  arts.  The  capital  invested  in  them  amounted  to  $1,009,- 
855,715.  They  consumed  $1,031,605,092  worth  of  raw  material, 
and  employed  1,311,246  hands,  of  which  1,040,349  were  males,  and 
270,897  females.  The  annual  cost  of  the  labor  employed  by  them 
was  $378,878,966,  and  the  annual  value  of  their  products  amounted  to 
$1,885,861,679. 

The  cotton  manufactures  of  the  United  States,  in  1870,  employed  a 
capital  of  $140,706,291,  in  operating  956  establishments.  They  con- 
sumed $117,737,686  worth  of  raw  material.  They  paid  annually 
$39,044,132  for  labor,  employed  118,920  hands,  of  whom  45,315 
were  males,  and  75,605  females.  They  received  annually  for  their 
products  the  sum  of  $115,237,926. 

The  woollen  manufactures  in  the  same  year  employed  a  capital  of 
$35,520,527,  in  operating  1909  establishments.  They  employed 
48,900  hands,  of  whom  28,780  were  males,  and  20,120  were  females. 
They  consumed  $40,461,300  worth  of  raw  material ;  paid  $10,937,877 
for  labor ;  and  received  $68,865,963  for  their  products. 

The  iron  manufactures,  including  pig,  cast,  and  wrought  iron,  em- 
ployed, in  1860,  a  capital  of  $74,579,667,  and  68,108  hands.  They 
consumed  $50,218,648  worth  of  raw  material  in  the  manufacture  of 
pig  iron,  castings,  bar  iron,  forged  iron,  etc.,  and  received  for  their 
products  the  sum  of  $96,450,744. 

The  other  more  important  manufactures  amounted  in  value,  during 
the  year  1860,  to  the  following  sums : 

Leather $  63,091,651 

Sawed  and  Planed  Lumber 93,651,000 

Flour 220,952,000 

Salt       2,265,000 

Malt  Liquors 17,976,000 

Spirituous  Liquors 23,535,000 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


81 


In  the  year  1860,  the  product  of  fisheries  was  valued  at  $12,- 
924,092. 

During  the  same  year,  110  ships  and  barks,  36  brigs,  372  schooners, 
289  sloops  and  canal  boats,  and  264  steamers  were  built  in  the  United 
States,  making  a  total  of  1071  vessels,  with  a  total  capacity  of  212,- 
892  tons. 

COMMERCE. 

From  partial  returns  for  the  year  ending  June  30th,  1870,  we  find 
that  the  entrances  and  clearances  at  the  ports  of  the  United  States 
were  as  follows : 

ENTRANCES. 


AMERICAN  VESSELS. 

BRITISH  VESSELS. 

TOTAL. 

No. 

Tons. 

No. 

Tons. 

No. 

Tons. 

6,145 

1,303.829 

14,4G6 

2,282,399 

20,611 

3,586,228 

CLEARANCES. 


AMERICAN  VESSELS. 

BRITISH  VESSELS. 

TOTAL. 

No. 

Tons. 

No. 

Tons. 

No. 

Tons. 

5,774 

1,287,630 

14,921 

2,425,852 

20,695 

3,713,482 

The  total  value  of  domestic  products  exported  from  the  United 
States  to  foreign  countries,  in  1869,  was  $373,189,274.  The  value 
of  foreign  goods  exported  from  the  United  States  to  foreign  countries, 
in  1860,  was  $26,933,022.  The  total  value  of  imports  from  foreign 
countries  in  the  same  year  was  $362,166,254. 

Total  Imports  in  1870, $315,200,022 

Total  Exports  "      " 254,137,208 


Excess  of  Imports  over  Exports  . 


$61,062,814 


INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

For  many  years  after  the  States  were  well  settled  by  the  whites,  the 
thoroughfares  were,  as  is  the  case  in  all  sparsely  populated  countries, 
in  such  a  wretched  condition  that  they  could  scarcely  be  called  roads 
at  all.  It  was  not  until  some  years  after  the  close  of  the  war  for  in- 
dependence that  a  proper  degree  of  attention  was  paid  to  them.  Then 
6 


82 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


VIEW  OX  HUDSON  RIVET!—- SIIOWIXG   THE  STEAMBOAT,   TELEGRAPH, 
•    AND    RAILROAD. 

It  was  held  to  be  the  duty  of  the  General  Government  to  provide  the 
l»?eat  routes  of  travel  leading  to  the  remote  parts  of  the  country,  while 
(lie  States  themselves  ought  to  look  after  their  local  highways. 

The  first  great  public  work  constructed  in  America  was  the  turn- 
pike from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg,  Pennsylvania,  which  was  com- 
pleted near  the  close  of  the  last  century,  and  was  for  a  long  time  the 
great  highway  across  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  This  was  followed 
by  the  National  Road,  from  Washington  city  to  St.  Louis,  constructed 
by  the  U.  S.  Engineer  Corps,  at  the  expense  of  the  General  Govern- 
ment, and  by  the  road  from  Bangor  to  Hamilton,  Maine,  also  built 
by  the  Government.  The  National  Road,  one  of  the  best  of  its  kind 
in  the  world,  was  carried  successfully  over  the  mountains,  across  the 
Ohio,  via  Wheeling  and  Cincinnati,  and  completed  as  far  as  the 
State  of  Illinois ;  but  the  rapid  growth  of  railroads  has  rendered  it  so 
comparatively  useless  that  it  will  hardly  be  completed  to  St.  Louis. 
Several  other  fine  roads  were  constructed  by  the  General  Government 
in  various  parts  of  the  country. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  .        83 

At  the  same  time  that  these  turnpikes  were  engaging  the  attention 
of  the  country,  the  States  were  urgently  entreated  to  inaugurate  a  sys- 
tem of  canals,  which  should  provide  cheaper  and  more  abundant 
transportation  between  the  distant  parts  of  the  Union.  Washington 
exerted  his  influence  to  secure  the  speedy  completion  of  canals  from 
the  head  of  tide  water  on  the  James  and  Potomac  Rivers,  to  the  Ohio. 
He  appreciated  the  great  advantages  which  would  have  been  derived 
from  the  prompt  completion  of  these  works,  and  was  eager  to  secure 
them  for  the  State  of  Virginia.  His  plans  are  remarkable  for  their  wis- 
dom and  their  deep  insight  into  the  future,  and  had  they  been  carried  out 
would,  beyond  all  doubt,  have  made  Norfolk,  Virginia,  the  largest  and 
most  important  city  in  America.  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland  also 
began  at  an  early  day  to  lay  out  extensive  canal  systems,  but,  thanks  to 
the  genius  and  energy  of  De  Witt  Clinton,  the  State  of  New  York  was 
the  first  to  reach  the  West  with  her  Erie  and  Hudson  Canal,  and  thus 
secured  for  her  great  metropolis  the  immense  advantages  which  have 
never  forsaken  it.  This  canal  was  opened  in  1824.  In  the  West, 
Ohio  and  Indiana  were  the  first  to  construct  such  works.  Since  1850, 
however,  the  railroads  of  the  country  have  rendered  the  further  con- 
struction of  canals  unnecessary.  In  18GO  there  were  about  5000 
miles  of  canal  navigation  in  the  United  States. 

The  last,  in  point  of  date  of  construction,  but  the  first  in  impor- 
tance, of  the  public  works  of  the  United  States,  were  the  railroads. 
The  first  railroad  in  this  country  was  a  mere  tramway,  for  the  trans- 
portation of  granite,  from  the  quarries  at  Quincy  to  the  Neponsett 
River,  in  Massachusetts,  constructed  in  the  year  1826.  This  was 
followed  by  the  Mauch  Chunk  Railway,  from  the  coal  mines  to  the 
Lehigh  River,  in  Pennsylvania,  in  1827.  These  were  mere  local 
works,  and  of  but  little  importance,  except  in  so  far  as  they  helped  to 
demonstrate  to  the  public  mind  the  possibility  and  usefulness  of  such 
enterprises  upon  a  larger  scale. 

Charters  for  roads  of  more  importance  were  now  obtained  in  Mas- 
sachusetts, New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland  and 
South  Carolina,  whose  example  was  rapidly  followed  by  the  other 
States.  In  1828  work  was  begun  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail- 
road, and  in  1829  on  the  South  Carolina  Railroad — at  present  two  of 
the  finest  works  in  the  country. 

It  was  not  until  about  the  year  1850,  however,  that  our  railroad 
system  began  to  attain  anything  like  its  present  importance.  The  fol- 
lowing table  will  show  the  increase  in  this  branch  of  our  industrj 
since  1838 : 


84  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Number  of  miles  in  1838 1,843 

"  "  "  1842 2,167 

"           c  "  "  1844 4,863 

fc  "  "  1S46 4,285 

'"           '  "'  "  1848 6,491 

"           '  "  "  1850 8,827 

"           fc  "  "  1852 12,841 

fc  "  "  1854 19,195 

"           ;  "  "  1856 23,724 

"          "  "  "  185S 27,158 

u          "  "  u  1860 31,185 

"         "  "  "  1865 35,935 

"         "  "  "  1869 42,245 

The  number  of  miles  in  operation  in  1872,  was  about  60,852. 
There  is  a  continuous  railway  connection  from  Bangor,  Maine,  to  New 
Orleans,  on  the  Gulf  coast,  and  San  Francisco  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
All  the  prominent  cities  and  towns  of  the  Union  are  connected  by 
means  of  railways,  and  the  most  distant  parts  of  the  country  are 
brought  within  a  few  days'  travel  of  each  other. 

The  electro-magnetic  telegraph  was  invented  by  Professor  Morse, 
about  the  year  1840,  and  in  1844  he  erected  between  Washington  and 
Baltimore,  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  the  first  line  ever  established  in 
the  United  States  or  in  the  world.  This  line  was  extended  north- 
ward, in  1845,  through  Philadelphia  and  New  York,  as  far  as  Boston. 
The  telegraph  wires  of  the  United  States  now  form  a  network  over 
the  Republic,  and  would  make  a  continuous  line  of  more  than  60,000 
miles.  This  includes  the  overland  line  between  the  Missouri  River 
and  San  Francisco,  California,  aiid  Portland,  Oregon.  The  American 
wires  are  also  connected  with  those  of  Europe  by  means  of  the  Atlan- 
tic cables,  between  New  Foundland  and  Ireland,  and  France.  It  is 
proposed  to  construct  another  line  from  Portland,  Oregon,  along  the 
west  coast  of  North  America  to  the  northern  part  of  Alaska,  from 
which  a  cable  is  to  be  laid,  via  Kamtchatka,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
A  moor  River,  in  Asia,  to  connect  with  a  line  through  Asia  to  St. 
Petersburg,  in  Russia. 

EDUCATION. 

The  first  settlers  of  the  States,  with  a  wise  foresight,  were  prompt 
to  provide  for  the  education  of  their  descendants.  Almost  their  first 
act  was  to  found  a  system  of  common  schools,  upon  which  the  estab- 
lishments of  the  present  day  are  modelled.  They  also  made  provision 
for  securing  the  means  of  instruction  in  the  higher  and  nobler  branches 
of  learning.  William  and  Mary  College,  in  Virginia,  Harvard  Col- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  85 

lege,  in  Massachusetts,  Yale  College,  in  Connecticut,  and  Columbia 
College,  in  New  York,  (or  King's  College,  as  it  was  formerly  called,) 
were  founded  within  a  very  short  period  after  the  settlement  of  the 
Colonies. 

"  The  general  system  of  education  in  the  United  States  may  be  ar- 
ranged under  three  heads,  as  follows :  1.  Elementary  or  Primary 
Education,  taught  in  the  public  schools ;  2.  Academic  or  Secondary 
Education,  pursued  in  academies,  high  schools,  private  seminaries,  etc. ; 
and  3.  Collegiate  or  Superior  Education,  acquired  in  such  institu- 
tions as  embrace  a  course  of  study  usually  made  the  condition  of 
granting  the  degree  of  Bachelor  of  Arts.  In  addition  to  the  above, 
the  Hon.  Henry  Barnard  extends  the  classification  as  follows : 

"  4.  Professional  or  Special  Education. 

a.  Theology,     b.  Law.     c.  Medicine,     d.   Engineering,     e.  Agricul- 
ture,    f.  Mechanics,     g.  Commerce,     h.  Teaching,     i.  Fine  Arts, 
j.  Deaf-mutes,     k.  Blind.     1.  Idiots. 
"5.  Supplementary  Education. 

a.  Evening  Schools,     b.  Lyceums,     c.  Courses  of  Lectures,    d.  Li- 
braries of  Circulation,     e.  Libraries  of  Reference,    f.  Adult  Schools, 
g.  Mechanic  Societies. 
**  6.  Reformatory  Schools. 
41  7.  Orphan  Houses. 

"  8.  Societies  for  the  encouragement  and  advancement  of  science,  the  arts, 
and  education. 

"  The  general  system  of  public  instruction  in  the  United  States 
originated  with  the  pilgrim  fathers  of  New  England;  where,  as  early 
as  1628,  provision  was  made  for  the  education  of  '  every  child  '  in 
the  settlements.  In  1637,  a  school  was  ordered  to  be  provided  for 
every  neighborhood  of  50  families,  and  another  for  a  higher  grade 
of  instruction  for  every  100  families.  A  sum  sufficient  to  maintain 
these  schools  was  annually  raised  by  a  town  tax,  voluntarily  imposed, 
and  each  school  district  drew  its  proportion  of  the  whole  sum  for  its 
own  school  or  schools.  Thus  the  property  of  the  town  was  made 
liable  for  the  education  of  the  children. 

"  The  same  system,  with  various  modifications,  has  gradually  ex- 
tended itself  to  most  of  the  States  in  the  Union,  and  in  part  has  been 
acted  upon  by  the  General  Government.  Chancellor  Kent  says  :  '  It 
has  been  uniformly  a  part  of  the  land  system  of  the  United  States  to 
provide  for  public  schools.  The  Articles  of  Confederation,  1787,  the 
Acts  admitting  into  the  Union,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri, 
Louisiana,  Florida,  Arkansas,  etc.,  all  provide  for  the  appropriation  of 


86 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


lands  in  each  township  for  the  use  of  public  schools.'  The  amount  of 
lands  thus  appropriated  by  the  Federal  Government,  up  to  January 
1st,  1854,  is  exhibited  in  the  subjoined  table  : 


States. 

Acres. 

States  and  Territories. 

Acres. 

Florida     .               .     . 

908  530 

Missouri     

1  199  139 

Alabama  

902  774 

905  144 

Mississippi     .... 
Louisiana      .... 

837,584 
780  044 

Wisconsin      .... 
California  

958,  G48 
6  719  324 

883,  -160 

Minnesota      .... 

5  089  224 

Ohio     

704.488  i 

Oregon  

12,140  907 

Michigan  

1  067  397  i 

J^ow  Mexico  . 

7  493  1  20 

Indiana    

(350.  3  L7 

Utah     ...... 

6  681  707 

Illinois                .     . 

978  7«)5 

Total    

48,909,535* 

"  The  table  given  on  the  following  page  shows  the  number  of  public 
schools,  academies,  and  colleges,  with  their  incomes  and  the  number 
of  pupils  in  attendance,  and  also  the  number  of  libraries  and  volumes, 
of  the  several  States,  as  derived  from  the  Census  of  1860. 

"  Maine  has  one  pupil  at  school  to  every  3*2  of  the  whole  popula- 
tion ;  being  a  greater  proportion  than  in  any  other  State  or  country. 
In  the  whole  United  States  the  proportion  at  school  is  1  to  4*9,  not 
including  slaves,  or  1  to  5'7,  including  slaves,  either  of  which  is 
greater  than  in  any  other  country  in  the  world  except  Denmark, 
where  the  proportion  is  1  to  4*6. 

"A  greatly  increased  interest  in  the  subject  of  popular  education 
has  been  manifested  within  the  last  few  years;  especially  in  the 
Northern  and  Western  States.  Public  sentiment  has  demanded  a 
higher  standard  of  qualification  in  the  teachers;  and,  as  a  consequence, 
normal  schools,  expressly  designed  for  their  instruction  and  training, 
have  been  established  in  several  States ;  besides  which,  teachers  meet 
regularly  in  convention,  to  interchange  views  upon  the  best  methods 
of  teaching;  thus  opening  a  larger  field  of  comparison,  and  stimu- 
lating through  emulation  to  far  greater  efforts  for  improvement. 
These  conventions,  we  believe,  are  now  held  in  every  free  State  in 
the  Union,  and  in  some  States  they  assemble  twice  annually  in  each 
county;  the  sessions  generally  continuing  a  week.  The  classification 
of  schools  is  also  undergoing  a  thorough  revision.  Union  schools,  or 
what  is  termed  the  '  graded  system/  which  comprises  high,  grammar, 


Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1994. 


THE  UNITED  STATES. 


87 


TABLE— Exhibiting  the  Schools  and  Libraries  of  the  United  States, 

for  1870. 


JUNK 

1,    1870. 

STATES  &  TERRITORIES. 

SCHOOLS. 

TEACHERS. 

PUPILS. 

INCOME. 

LlUBAUIES 

VOLUMBS. 

Alabama 

2969 

3364 

75866 

$  976,351 

1  430 

576  882 

'I 

'7 

132 

6,000 

2000 

1  978 

2297 

81526 

681.962 

1  181 

135  564 

California  ...  

1,548 

2,444 

85,507 

2,946.308 

1,617 

474.299 

Colorado     

142 

188 

5,033 

87,915 

175 

39,344 

1  917 

29''6 

98621 

1,856,279 

63 

2S5  937 

Dakota    

35 

52 

1,255 

9,284 

19 

9726 

375 

510 

19,575 

212,712 

473 

183,423 

District  of  Columbia 

313 

573 

19503 

811,242 

696 

793  702 

Florida  

377 

482 

14,670 

154.569 

253 

112928 

Georgia                                

1  880 

2432 

66,150 

1,253,299 

1,735 

467  232 

Idaho 

25 

33 

1  208 

19.938 

43 

10625 

Illinois     

11,835 

24056 

767,775 

9.970,009 

13.570 

3323,914    ' 

9,073 

11  652 

464477 

2,499,511 

5,301 

1  125,553 

7496 

9319 

217  654 

3  570,093 

3540 

673  600 

1,689 

1  955 

59  882 

787.^26 

574 

218,676 

5  149 

6346 

245,139 

2,538,429 

5546 

1  909,230 

592 

1  902 

60171 

1  199684 

2332 

847406 

Maine                 

4723 

6986 

162,636 

1,106,203 

3,334 

984,510 

1  779 

3287 

107  384 

1,998.215 

3353 

1  713,483 

Massachusetts  

5,726 

7  561 

269337 

4,817,939 

3,169 

3.017.813 

Michigan     

5  595 

9  559 

266  G^l 

2.550,018 

26,763 

2,174.744 

2  479 

2886 

107  266 

1  011,769 

1  412 

360,810 

Mississippi    

1.564 

1,728 

43,451 

780.339 

2,788 

488.482 

Missouri 

6  750 

9,028 

370  337 

4,340.805 

5,645 

1,065,638 

Montana  

54 

65 

1.745 

41,170 

141 

19,790 

Nebraska  

796 

840 

17614 

207.560 

390 

147,040 

53 

84 

2373 

110  493 

314 

158,040 

2542 

3355 

64667 

674  898 

1.526 

704269 

1893 

3889 

129  800 

2.982,250 

2,413 

895.291    i 

44 

72 

1  798 

29886 

116 

39,4-J5 

New  York..  

13,020 

28,918 

862  022 

15,936,783 

20,929 

6,310,352 

North  Carolina  

2  161 

2  692 

64958 

635,892 

1,746 

541,915 

Ohio 

11  952 

?3  589 

791)  795 

10  944  644 

17,790 

3  687,363 

Oregon  

637 

876 

32  593 

248,022 

2,361 

334-959 

14872 

19  522 

811  863 

9  628,119 

14849 

6,377,845 

Kliode  Island 

561 

951 

32596 

565  012 

759 

693  387 

South  Carolina  

750 

1  103 

38*249 

577,953 

1,663 

546/J44 

2794 

3587 

125  831 

1  650  692 

3,505 

802,112 

Texas 

548 

706 

23076 

414  880 

455 

87111 

Utah    

267 

408 

21  067 

150.447 

133 

39,177 

3084 

5  160 

62913 

707.292 

1,792 

727.263 

Virginia  

2.024 

2697 

60'019 

1,155,585 

4,171 

1,107,313 

170 

197 

5499 

48,302 

102 

33,362 

West  Virginia  

2,445 

2,838 

104,949 

698.061 

1,728 

372,745 

Wisconsin  

4,943 

7955 

344014 

2,600.310 

2883 

905,811 

g 

15 

305 

8376 

31 

2,603 

TOTAL  

141,629 

221,042 

7,209,938 

$95,402,726 

164,815 

45,528,938 

88  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

intermediate,  and  primary  schools,  are  being  established  in  all  the 
principal  cities,  towns,  and  villages.  By  placing  the  classes  in  the 
intermediate  and  primary  schools,  in  charge  of  competent  female  in- 
structors, school  committees  are  enabled  to  secure  the  services  of  male 
teachers  of  the  highest  qualifications  for  the  more  advanced  pupils, 
without  increasing  the  aggregate  cost  of  tuition. 

"  The  education  bestowed  in  many  of  the  high  schools,  especially  in 
the  Free  Academy  of  New  York,  and  the  Philadelphia  High  School, 
is,  in  the  opinion  of  competent  judges,  equal,  if  not  superior,  in  all 
that  relates  to  the  practical  pursuits  of  life,  to  that  of  any  other  insti- 
tution, of  whatever  class,  in  this  or  any  other  country. 

"  It  should  be  remarked  that  not  only  in  the  public  schools  (which 
are  especially  referred  to  in  the  foregoing  observations),  but  also  in 
the  various  private  schools  throughout  the  country,  renewed  zeal  has 
been  manifested,  and  important  improvements  have  been  made."* 

Scientific  Institutions  are  yet  in  their  infancy  in  the  United  States, 
but  are  growing  in  number  and  importance.  One  of  them,  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  already  holds  a  deservedly  high  rank  in  this 
country,  as  well  as  in  the  estimation  of  Europeans. 

THE    PRESS. 

The  press  of  the  United  States  has  kept  pace  with  the  wonderful 
growth  of  the  country.  In  1870,  the  number  of  newspapers  and 
periodicals  published  in  the  States  and  Territories  of  the  Union, 

was  as  follows : 

i 

Dailies, 574 

Semi-Weeklies, 115 

Tri-Weeklies, 107 

Weeklies, 4,295 

Monthlies, 622 

Bi-Monthlies, 13 

Quarterlies, .    .  49 


Total 5,775 

These  were  divided  as  follows : 

Political. 4^333 

Religious,      . 407 

Literary  and  Miscellaneous, 503 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1995. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  89 

Their  circulation  was  as  follows  : 

Dailies, 2,601,547 

Semi-Weeklies, 247,197 

Tri-Weeklies, .  155,105 

Weeklies, .    .    .  19,594,643 

Monthlies, 5,650,843 

Bi-Monthlies, 31,650 

Quarterlies, 211,670 

Taking  the  aggregate  annual  circulation  (the  above  statements  re- 
presenting the  aggregate  number  of  copies  printed  at  each  stated  issue 
of  the  journals),  we  find  that  the  whole  number  of  copies  of  news- 
papers and  periodicals  printed  annually  in  this  country,  in  1870,  was 
1,508,548,250. 

POST    OFFICES. 

According  to  the  statistics  of  the  Post  Office  Department  of  the 
United  States  for  the  year  ending  June  30th,  1863,  there  were 
29,047  post  offices  in  the  States  and  Territories  of  the  Union.  The 
aggregate  length  of  mail  routes  was  139,598  miles.  The  annual  ex- 
penditures of  the  Department  were  $11,314,206,  and  the  receipts 
$11,163,789,  leaving  a  deficit  of  $150,417.  The  receipts  for  the  year 
ending  June  30th,  1865,  were  $14,556,158,  and  the  expenditures 
$13,694,728,  leaving  a  surplus  of  $861,430.  The  number  of  postage 
stamps  issued  during  the  latter  year  was  387,419,455,  which  yielded 
the  sum  of  $12,099,787.  The  number  of  stamped  envelopes  sold, 
25,040,425,  which  yielded  $724,135.  The  foreign  postage  for  the 
year  reached  the  sum  of  $1,819,928. 


RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

The  Constitution  of  the  United  States  forbids  the  establishment 
of  any  State  religion,  and  places  all  religious  sects  upon  a  footing  of 
equality  by  leaving  every  citizen  of  the  Republic  "  free  to  worship 
God  after  the  dictates  of  his  own  conscience."  All  churches  and 
ministers,  therefore,  derive  their  incomes  from  the  voluntary  contri- 
butions of  their  own  congregations. 

The  principal  religious  sects,  and  their  respective  strength,  in  the 
year  1870,  are  shown  by  the  following  table:  * 

»  U.  S.  Census,  1870. 


90 


THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


RELIGIOUS   DENOMINATIONS, 


AC'COBDING      TO 


THE     CENSUS     OF     1870 


DENOMINATIONS. 

Organiza- 
tions. 

Edifices. 

Sittings. 

Property. 

14.474 

12,857 

3,997,116 

$30,229,221 

1,355 

1,105 

363  019 

2  378  977 

Christian.  .                            

3,578 

2,822 

865,602 

6,420,137 

2,887 

2,715 

1,117.212 

25.0fi$»,69S 

2,835 

2,601 

991,051 

36,514,549 

815 

641 

193,796 

2.301.650 

692 

662 

224.664 

3,939,560 

189 

152 

73,265 

5.155,234 

3,032 

2,776 

977.332 

14  917,747 

25,278 

21,337 

6,528.209 

fiy,854,121 

27 

17 

6.935 

135,650 

72 

67 

25,700 

709,100 

Mormon.         

189 

171 

87,838 

656,750 

90 

61 

18.755 

869.700 

Presbyterian  (Regular)  .                 .             

6,262 

5,683 

2,198,900 

47,828,732 

Presbyterian  (other)  

1,562 

1,388 

499,344 

5.436,524 

Reformed  Church  in  America  (late  Dutch  Reforin'd) 
Reformed  Church  in  the  U.S.  (late  Germ.Reform'd) 
Roman  Catholic  

471 
1,256 
4,127 

468 
1,145 

3,806 

227,228 
431,700 
1,990,514 

10,359,235 
5,775,215 
60,985,566 

Second  Advent 

225 

140 

34,555 

306,240 

Shaker  

18 

18 

8.850 

86,900 

95 

22 

6,97<> 

100,150 

Unitarian  .                                                     

331 

310 

155,471 

6,282,675 

United  Brethren  in  Christ  

1,445 

937 

265,025 

1,819,810 

719 

602 

210  884 

5  692,325 

Unknown  (Local  Missions)  

26 

27 

11,925 

687,800 

Unknown  (Union)  

409 

552 

153,202 

965,295 

ALL  DENOMINATIONS.... 

72,459 

63,082 

21,665,062 

$354,483.581 

CITIES. 

The  largest  city  in  the  United  States  is  the  city  of  New  York, 
which,  in  1860,  had  a  population  of  813,669,  and  in  1870  a  popula- 
tion of  942,337,  according  to  the  census  of  that  year;  though  there 
can  be  but  little  doubt  that  the  actual  population  exceeds  1,000,000. 
The  following  table  shows  the  population  of  the  principal  cities  of  the 
Union  according  to  the  last  three  censuses : 


CITIES. 

1870. 

I860. 

1850. 

CITIES. 

1870. 

I860. 

1850. 

Philadelphia,  Penn 

674,022 

565,529 

408,762 

Buffalo,  N.  Y  

117,115 

81,129 

42,261 

Brooklyn,  N.  Y  
St.  Louis,  Mo.. 

396,300 
310,864 

266,661 
212,418 

96,838 
77,860 

Washington,  D.  C  
Newark   N.  J  

109,204 
105,059 

61,122 
71,941 

40,001 

38,894 

Chicago,  111  

298,977 

109,260 

29,963 

100,754 

68,033 

43.194 

Baltimore,  Md 

267  354 

212,418 

169,054 

Cleveland   Ohio  

92,846 

43,417 

17,034 

Boston,  Mas?  

250,526 

177,841 

136,881 

Pittsburo,  Pa  

86,235 

49,217 

46.601 

Cincinnati,  Ohio  
New  Orleans,  La  

2-1  6,239 
191  322 

161,044 

168,675 

115,436 
116,375 

Jersey  City,  N.  J  
Detroit,  Mich  

82,547 

79,580 

29,226 
45,619 

6.856 
21,  (H9 

San  Francisco,  Cal... 

149,482 

56,802 

34,870 

Milwaukee,  Wis  

71,499 

45,246 

20,061 

THE    UNITED    STATES. 


91 


CITIES. 

1*70. 

1860. 

1850. 

CITIKS. 

1870. 

I860. 

1850. 

Albany,  N.  Y  

69  422 

62  367 

50  763 

'>()  <jo^ 

Providence,  R.  I  

68,906 

50,666 

41,513 

Lancaster,  Pa  

20  233 

17,603 

12  369 

Rochester,  N.  Y  
Alleghany  City,  Pa... 

62,315 
5/5,181 

48,204 
28,702 

36,403 

Savannah,  Ga  
Poufhkeepsie,  N.  Y.. 

28,235 
20  080 

Richmond,  Va 

51  038 

37  9lu 

27  570 

20  045 

New  Haven,  Conn.... 
Charleston,  S.  C  

50,840 
48,956 

39,267 
40  522 

20,345 
42,985 

Davenport,  Iowa  
St.  Paul,  Minn.  . 

20,042 
20  031 

11,267 
10,401 



Troy,  N.  Y  

46  465 

39  235 

28.785 

Erie    Pa 

19  646 

Syracuse,  N.Y  
Worcester,  Mass  

43,058 
41,105 

28,119 
24  960 

22,271 
17,049 

Wheeling,  W.  Va  
Norfolk,  Va  

19,282 
19  256 

14,620 

14,326 

Lowell,  Mass  

40,928 

36  S97 

33,383 

18  629 

15,376 

Memphis,  Tenn  

40,226 

22  623 

8,839 

Chelsea,  Ma^»s, 

18  547 

13,395 

Cambridge,  Mass  

39  634 

26  060 

15,215 

18  404 

Hartford,  Conn 

37  180 

29  159 

13  555 

1  7  849 

7  424 

Indianapolis,  Ind  
Scranton,  Pa  
Reading,  Pa  

48,244 
35.093 
33.932 

18,611 
9,223 
23  162 

8,034 

Fort  Wayne,  Ind  
Springfield,  111  
Auburn   N.  Y 

17.-I8 
1  7,365 
17  225 



Columbus,  Ohio  

31  274 

18  554 

17  882 

Newburgh    N  Y 

17  014 

Patterson,  N.  J  

33,582 

19  586 

11  334 

16  986 

Kansas  City,  Mo  

32.260 

Norwichj  Conn... 

16  653 

14,048 

Dayton,  Ohio  

30  473 

20  081 

10  977 

16  484 

13,785 

Mobile,  Ala 

32  184 

29  25S 

20  515 

16  083 

Portland.  Me.. 

31  414 

26  341 

9|)  815 

Elmira  N   Y 

15  863 

Wilmington,  Del  
Lawrence,  Mass 

30,841 
28  921 

21,258 
17  639 

13,979 

8  282 

Lockport,  N.  Y  

15,458 
15  S87 

10  904 



Utica,  N.  Y. 

28  804 

Cohoe«   N'Y 

15  357 

Toledo,  Ohio  

31,584 

13  768 

3  829 

New  Brunswick  N  J 

15  059 

Charlestown,  Mass... 
Lynn,  Mass  
Fall  River,  Mass  
Springfield,  Mass.. 

28,323 
28,233 
26,786 
26  703 

25,065 
19,083 
14,02fi 
15  199 

17,216 
14,257 
11,524 
11  766 

New  Albany,  Ind  
(ralveston,  Texas  
Newburyport,  Mass... 

15.396 
13.818 
12,595 
13  570 

12,647 
7,307 
13,401 

9,895 
9,572 

Nashville,  Tenn  

25,865 

16  988 

10  165 

13  446 

24,505 

Newport,  R.  I 

12  521 

10,508 

24  117 

22  25? 

Little  Rock   Ark 

I9  380 

Quincy,  Ills  

24,  ('53 

20  264 

Concord    N.  H 

12  241 

Manchester,  N.  H  
Harrisburg,  Pa  
Trenton,  N.  J.    . 

23,536 
23,109 
22  874 

20,107 
13,405 

7  834 

Des  Moines,  Iowa  
Wsiterbury,  Conn  
Nashui   N  H 

12,035 
10,826 
10  543 

10,004 
10  065 



Peoria,  111  

22  849 

14  045 

Raleigh   N    C 

10  149 

Evansville,  Ind  
New  Bedford,  Mass... 
Oswego,  N.  Y 

22,830 
21,320 
20  910 

11,484 

22,300 
16  816 

3,235 
16,443 
12  205 

New  London,  Conn... 
Portland,  Oreg  

9,576 
8,293 
7  008 

10,115 

2,874 



Elizabeth,  N.  J  

20,838 

Topeka,  Kan.'.  

5,790 



GOVERNMENT. 

The  Government  of  the  United  States  is  a  Confederation  of  the 
various  States,  each  and  all  of  which  have  delegated  a  certain  share 
of  their  powers  to  a  General  Government  for  their  mutual  benefit  and 
protection.  This  General  Government  is  controlled  by  a  written 
Constitution,  which  has  been  ratified  by  each  State,  and  has  thus  been 
made  the  supreme  law  of  the  land.  By  the  terms  of  this  Constitu- 
tion, all  powers  not  granted  by  it  to  the  General  Government  are 
reserved  to  the  several  States  and  to  the  people  thereof,  but  in  the 
exercise  of  the  powers  delegated  by  the  Constitution,  the  General 
Government  is  independent  of  and  supreme  over  all  the  States. 

The  Government  of  the  Republic  is  divided  into  three  coordinate 
branches — the  Executive,  the  Legislative,  and  the  Judiciary. 


92  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Executive  branch  consists  of  a  President  and  Vice-President, 
elected  for  four  years  by  electors  chosen  by  the  popular  vote  in  each 
State.  The  number  of  electors  chosen  in  each  State  is  equal  to  the 
number  of  Senators  and  Representatives  from  that  State  at  the  time 
of  the  election.  Thus  a  State  having  four  Representatives  in  the 
lower  House  of  Congress,  and  two  Senators  in  the  upper  House,  is 
entitled  to  six  electors  in  an  election  for  President.  It  is  usual  for 
the  electors  to  cast  their  votes  in  accordance  with  the  will  of  the 
majority  of  the  people  of  the  State,  as  expressed  by  the  popular  vote, 
but  it  seems  certain  that  it  was  the  original  design  of  the  Constitution 
that  the  electors  upon  being  chosen  by  the  people  should  be  free  to 
elect  a  President  of  their  own  choice.  A  majority  of  the  whole  num- 
ber of  electoral  votes  is  necessary  to  a  choice.  If  no  person  be  chosen, 
then  the  names  of  the  three  persons  receiving  the  highest  number  of 
votes  shall  be  presented  to  the  House  of  Representatives,  which  shall 
proceed  to  vote  by  States  (each  State  having  but  one  vote,  and  a 
majority  of  States  being  necessary  to  a  choice)  for  President,  or  Vice- 
President,  as  the  case  may  be.  In  the  event  of  a  failure,  by  both  the 
electors  and  the  House  of  Representatives,  to  elect  a  President  before 
the  4th  of  March,  next  following,  then  the  Vice-President  shall  act 
as  President.  In  case  the  electors  fail  to  choose  a  Vice-President, 
the  Senate  of  the  United  States  shall  proceed  to  choose  a  Vice-Presi- 
dent  from  the  two  highest  numbers  on  the  list,  a  majority  of  the 
whole  number  being  necessary  to  an  election. 

The  President  of  the  United  States  is  the  Constitutional  Com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  Army  and  Navy  of  the  United  States.  He 
has  power  to  grant  reprieves  and  pardons  for  offences  against  the 
United  States,  except  in  cases  of  impeachment ;  he  makes  treaties, 
with  the  concurrence  of  two-thirds  of  the  Senate,  nominates  the  mem- 
bers of  his  cabinet,  foreign  ministers,  and  other  officers  of  the  United 
States,  which  nomination  must  be  confirmed  by  the  Senate  before  the 
official  can  enter  upon  his  office,  and,  by  the  terms  of  the  Constitu- 
tion, may,  at  his  pleasure,  remove  any  officer  of  the  Government  sub- 
ject to  his  nomination.  He  may  be  impeached  for  high  crimes  and 
misdemeanors,  and  be  removed,  if  convicted.  The  articles  of  impeach- 
ment must  be  presented  by  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  tried 
by  the  Senate,  sitting  as  a  high  court  and  presided  over  by  the  Chief 
Justice  of  the  United  States.  In  the  event  of  the  death,  resignation, 
or  removal  of  the  President,  the  Vice-President  succeeds  to  his  office, 
and  the  President  pro  tempore  of  the  Senate  becomes  the  acting  Vice- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  93 

President  of  the  United  States.  It  is  the  duty  of  the  President  to 
execute,  or  cause  to  be  executed,  the  laws  of  the  United  States  as  pre- 
scribed by  Congress. 

The  Vice-President  is  ex-officio  President  of  the  Senate,  and  in 
case  of  the  death  or  disability  of  the  President,  as  explained  above, 
becomes  President  of  the  United  States.  Should  he  die,  resign,  or  be 
removed  from  his  office,  the  President  pro  tempore  of  the  Senate  be- 
comes the  President  of  the  United  States.  In  the  event  of  the  dis- 
ability of  all  three  of  the  officials  named  above,  the  Speaker  of  the 
House  of  Representatives  becomes  the  President  of  the  United  States. 
The  President  pro  tempore  of  the  Senate  is  usually  chosen  near  the 
close  of  each  session  with  a  view  to  the  contingency  we  have  fnen- 
tioned.  The  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives  is  elected  at 
the  beginning  of  each  Congress — that  is,  every  two  years. 

The  Legislative  branch  consists  of  a  Senate  and  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, which  constitute  the  Congress  of  the  United  States.  The 
Senate  is  composed  of  two  members  from  each  State,  chosen  by  the 
Legislature  thereof,  for  six  years,  so  that  one-third  of  the  whole 
number  of  Senators  shall  retire  at  the  end  of  every  second  year.  A 
Senator  must  be  at  least  thirty  years  of  age,  and  must  have  been  nine 
years  a  citizen  of  the  United  States.  The  Senate  has  power  to  ratify 
or  reject  all  treaties  between  the  United  States  and  Foreign  Powers, 
and  to  confirm  or  reject  nominations  to  office  under  the  Government 
submitted  to  it  by  the  President  of  the  United  States.  The  House 
of  Representatives  is  composed  of  Representatives  chosen  by  the  people 
of  the  States  once  every  two  years.  A  Representative  must  be  at  least 
25  years  of  age,  have  been  seven  years  a  citizen  of  the  United  States, 
and  a  resident  of  the  State  from  which  he  is  chosen.  Representatives 
are  apportioned  among  the  States  according  to  the  number  of  inhabi- 
tants, excluding  idiots  and  Indians  not  taxed.  The  ratio  is  changed 
with  the  increase  of  population.  The  number  of  Representatives  is 
limited  by  law  to  241,  besides  delegates  from  each  Territory.  Each 
State,  whatever  its  population,  must  have  at  least  one  Representative. 
I)elegates  from  the  Territories  are  allowed  seats  on  the  floor  of  the 
House,  and  are  permitted  to  participate  in  the  debates,  but  have  no 
votes.  All  bills  for  raising  revenue  and  for  taxation  must  originate 
in  the  House  of  Representatives.  The  Senate  represents  the  States 
of  the  Union  in  their  sovereign  capacity  (each  State  being  made  equal 
in  that  body  by  having  two  votes),  and  the  House  of  Representatives 
the  people. 


94  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Congress  has  power  to  levy  and  collect  taxes,  duties,  imposts,  and 
excises,  to  provide  for  the  common  defence  and  general  welfare  of  the 
United  States,  but  is  required  to  make  all  such  impositions  uniform 
throughout  the  United  States.  It  has  power  to  borrow  money  on  the 
credit  of  the  United  States,  to  make  laws  for  the  regulation  of  the 
foreign  and  inter-State  trade  of  the  Union,  and  to  regulate  the 
traffic  with  the  Indian  tribes;  to  make  all  laws  respecting  the  subjects 
of  naturalization  and  bankruptcies;  to  regulate  the  coinage  and  value 
of  money,  to  fix  the  value  of  foreign  money,  and  to  adjust  the  stand- 
ard of  weights  and  measures ;  to  provide  for  the  punishment  of  per- 
sons counterfeiting  the  money  or  securities  of  the  United  States ;  to 
establish  post-offices  and  post-roads;  to  regulate  the  granting  of  copy- 
rights and  patents ;  to  regulate  the  courts  of  the  United  States,  inferior 
to  the  Supreme  Court;  to  define  and  punish  piracies  and  offences 
committed  on  the  high  seas ;  to  declare  war,  conclude  peace,  and  regu- 
late all  matters  appertaining  thereto ;  to  raise  an  army  and  navy,  and 
provide  for  their  support ;  to  call  forth  the  militia  when  their  services 
are  needed,  and  provide  laws  for  their  government  while  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  United  States ;  and  to  exercise  exclusive  jurisdiction  over 
all  forts,  arsenals,  and  other  property  of  the  United  States,  and  over 
the  District  of  Columbia,  in  which  the  seat  of  government  is  located. 

A  bill  must  receive  a  majority  of  the  votes  necessary  to  form  a 
quorum  in  each  house,  and  receive  the  signature  of  the  President 'of 
the  United  States  before  it  can  become  a  law.  Should  the  President 
object  to  a  bill,  or  a  part  of  its  provisions,  he  must  send  it,  with  his 
objections  in  writing,  to  the  house  in  which  it  originatecl,«when  that 
house  must  proceed  to  reconsider  it,  and  if  two-thirds  of  each  house 
sustain  the  bill,  in  spite  of  his  objections,  it  becomes  a  law  without 
the  approval  of  the  President.  If  the  President  does  not  return  a 
bill  in  ten  days,  Sabbaths  excluded,  it  becomes  a  law  without  his  ap- 
proval, provided  Congress  is  still  in  session  at  the  expiration  of  the 
ten  days ;  but  if  Congress  shall  adjourn  before  the  ten  days  have  ex- 
pired, the  President  may  defeat  the  bill  by  keeping  it  over  until  after 
the  adjournment.  This  is  usually  termed  a  "  pocket  veto." 

The  Judiciary  branch  of  the  Government  consists  of  one  Supreme 
Court,  9  Circuit  Courts,  and  47  District  Courts.  The  Supreme  Court 
is  the  highest  judicial  tribunal  in  the  Union,  and  consists  of  one 
Chief  Justice  and  8  Associate  Justices,  who  are  appointed  by  the 
President,  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate,  and  re- 
tain their  offices  during  good  behavior.  The  Supreme  Court  holds 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  95 

one  session  annually,  commencing  the  first  Monday  in  December.  A 
Circuit  Court  is  held  twice  a  year  in  each  State  by  a  judge  of  the  Su- 
preme Court  and  the  District  Judge  of  the  State  or  district  in  which 
the  court  is  held.  The  District  Courts  are  held  by  special  judges, 
usually  one  for  each  district.  The  United  States  or  Federal  Courts 
have  jurisdiction  in  all  cases  of  law  and  equity  arising  under  the 
Constitution  and  laws  of  the  United  States,  and  treaties  made  under 
their  authority;  in  all  cases  concerning  foreign  ministers  and  agents; 
in  all  cases  of  marine  jurisdiction ;  in  all  cases  in  which  the  United 
States  is  a  party ;  in  all  cases  between  States,  or  between  a  State  and  a 
citizen  of  another  State,  or  between  citizens  of  different  States,  between 
citizens  of  the  same  State  claiming  lands  under  the  grants  of  another 
State,  and  between  a  State  and  citizens,  thereof,  and  foreign  states, 
citizens,  or  subjects.  Each  District  Court  of  the  United  States  is 
provided  with  a  prosecuting  attorney  and  a  marshal. 

The  States  are  sovereign  in  themselves,  and  as  regards  their  own 
affairs.  The  Government  of  each  one  is  similar  to  that  of  the  United 
States,  consisting  of  an  Executive  or  Governor,  a  Legislature,  com- 
posed of  two  houses,  all  elected  by  the  people,  and  a  judiciary.  Each 
State  is  independent  of  all  the  others,  and  subject  only  to  the  Consti- 
tution of  the  United  States.  Each  is  required  to  accord  full  faith 
and  credit  to  the  transactions  of  the  others,  provided  they  are  not 
contrary  to  the  supreme  law  of  the  land.  The  States  may  not  enter 
into  any  combinations  with  each  other  not  provided  for  by  the  Con- 
stitution, nor  keep  troops  in  time  of  peace,  nor  make  war  nor  conclude 
peace.  A  State  may  not  impose  any  restrictions  upon  the  trade  be- 
tween the  States,  or  levy  or  collect  imposts  of  any  kind  upon  any  but 
its  own  citizens. 

The  Territories  are  the  common  property  of  the  United  States, 
and  are  governed  by  Legislatures  elected  by  their  own  inhabitants, 
and  by  Governors  appointed  by  the  President  of  the  United  States.  A 
Territory  having  a  number  of  inhabitants  sufficient  to  entitle  it  to  one 
representative  in  Congress,  may  be  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a 
State.  It  must  first  adopt  a  State  Constitution,  which  must  be  rati- 
fied by  the  people  of  the  Territory  at  the  polls,  and  submitted  to 
Congress  for  its  approval.  If  approved  by  Congress,  the  President 
shall  issue  his  proclamation  declaring  the  Territory  duly  admitted  as 
a  State,  and  the  new  State  shalj  ratify  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States. 

Titles  of  nobility,  acts  of  attainder,  and  ex-post  facto  laws  are  for- 


96  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

bidden  by  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  and  by  the  States. 
No  criminal  can  be  sheltered  by  the  authorities  of  a  State  or  Territory 
in  which  he  may  take  refuge,  from  the  authorities  of  the  State  or 
Territory  in  which  his  offence  was  committed.  Citizenship  of  a  State 
confers  all  such  privileges  in  the  several  States.  Trial  by  jury  is  se- 
cured for  all  offences.  No  preference  shall  be  shown  to  any  religion 
by  the  Government,  but  equal  rights  and  privileges  are  secured  to  all 
sects.  The  privacy  of  the  house  of  a  citizen  is  secured  against  unlaw- 
ful violation  by  search,  seizure,  or  by  quartering  a  soldier  upon  him 
in  time  of  peace.  Excessive  bail  or  fines,  and  cruel  and  unusual  pun- 
ishments are  forbidden,  and  no  one  may  be  tried  twice  for  a  capital 

offence. 

THE    ARMY. 

The  military  establishment  of  the  United  States,  as  reorganized  by 
the  Act  of  July  28th,  1866,  consists  of  10  regiments,  or  120  com- 
panies, of  cavalry,  5  regiments,  or  60  companies,  of  artillery,  and  45 
regiments,  or  450  companies,  of  infantry,  making  an  effective  force 
(should  the  maximum  strength  of  all  the  regiments  be  attained)  of 
76,000  men,  divided  as  follows :  artillery  7000,  cavalry  14,000,  in- 
fantry 55,000.  At  present  the  effective  strength  of  companies  has 
been  fixed  as  follows :  for  infantry,  cavalry,  and  artillery  (heavy),  64 
privates,  and  for  light  artillery  122  privates;  making  an  aggregate 
strength  of  54,302  men.  Besides  this  force,  the  militia  of  the  States, 
which  in  many  of  them  is  well  organized  and  effective,  may  be  called 
into  service  by  the  General  Government  in  case  of  emergency.  The 
promptness  with  which  such  appeals'  have  always  been  responded  to 
by  the  States,  shows  that  the  real  available  force  of  the  Republic  is 
more  than  1,000,000  men,  the  nHajority  of  whom  are  at  present 
veteran  soldiers. 

The  President  of  the  United  States  is  the  Constitutional  Com- 
mander-in-Onief  of  the  army,  but  it  is  usual  for  him  to  relinquish  the 
active  management  of  its  affairs  to  the  War  Department  and  to  the 
General  of  the  Army,  who  is  its  immediate  Com mander-in -Chief,  and 
has  his  headquarters  in  Washington  City.  The  other  officers  of  the 
regular  establishment  are: 

One  lieutenant-general;  5  major-generals;  10  brigadier-generals; 
1  chief  of  staff  to  the  general,  brigadier-general ;  1  adjutant-gene- 
ral, brigadier-general;  1  judge-advocate-general,  brigadier- gene- 
ral ;  1  quartermaster-general,  brigadier-general ;  1  commissary- 
general,  brigadier-general ;  1  surgeon-general,  brigadier-general ; 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  9f 

I  paymaster-general,  brigadier-general;    1  chief  of  engineers,  briga- 
dier-general ;    1   chief  of  ordnance,   brigadier-general ;    87  colonels ; 
99  lieutenant-colonels;  327  majors;  835  captains;  857  1st  lieuten- 
ants ;  583  2d  lieutenants ;  6  chaplains. 

A  considerable  force  is  required  at  all  times  on  the  western  frontier 
to  protect  the  settlers  against  the  attacks  of  the  Indians.  The  remain- 
der of  the  army  is  employed  in  garrisoning  and  protecting  the  forts, 
arsenals,  and  other  public  property  of  the  Republic. 

THE    NAVY. 

The  naval  establishment  of  the  United  States  consists  of  206  ves- 
sels, carrying  1743  guns.  Of  these,  35  are  first-rates,  carrying  662 
guns.  Each  vessel  is  of  at  least  2400  tons;  the  second-rates,  of  from 
1200  to  2400  tons,  are  37  in  number,  and  carry  483  guns;  the  third- 
rates,  of  from  600  to  1200  tons,  number  76  vessels,  and  carry  414 
guns ;  the  fourth-rates,  under  600  tons,  are  38  in  number,  and  carry 
184  guns.  Of  the  above  force,  52  are  iron-clads,  carrying  129  guns; 
95  are  screw  steamers,  carrying  938  guns;  28  are  paddle-wheel 
steamers,  carrying  199  guns;  and  31  are  sailing  vessels,  carrying  477 
guns. 

The  active  list  of  the  service  is  as  follows : 

One  admiral,  1  vice-admiral,  10  rear-admirals,  25  commodores,  49 
captains,  89  commanders,  139  lieutenant-commanders,  45  lieutenants, 
30  masters,  52  ensigns,  157  midshipmen,  67  surgeons,  37  passed  as- 
sistant-surgeons, 36  assistant-surgeons,  79  paymasters,  56  passed  as- 
sistant-paymasters, 52  chief-engineers,  90  first  assistant-engineers,  137 
second  assistant-engineers,  24  third  assistant-engineers,  19  chaplains, 

II  professors,  7  naval  constructors,  5  assistant  naval  constructors,  52 
boatswains,  57  gunners,  39  carpenters,  31  sailmakers.     In  the  Naval 
Academy,  there  are  348  midshipmen  undergoing  instruction,  16  third 
assistant-engineers,  and  1  cadet  engineer. 

The  retired  list  is  as  follows : 

Eighteen  rear-admirals,  60  commodores,  31  captains,  17  comman- 
ders, 3  lieutenant-commanders,  6  masters,  1  midshipman,  24  surgeons, 
3  passed  assistant-surgeons,  3  assistant-surgeons,  14  paymasters,  14 
assistant-engineers,  8  chaplains,  2  professors,  6  boatswains,  6  gunners, 
6  carpenters,  5  sailmakers.  fc 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1867,  there  were  115  vessels,  carrying  1029 
guns,  in  commission.     The  following  is  a  list  of  vessels  comprising 
the  squadrons  on  active  duty: 
7 


THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


European  Squadron       10 


Asiatic 

North  Atlantic ' 

South 

Gulf 

North  Pacific    ' 

South 

Total 


Vessels.     Guns. 
113 

78 
135 

75 

71 
122 

C7 

601 


7 
15 

8 

10 
10 

7 


FINANCES. 

The  following  is  the  statement  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  of 
the  public  debt  of  the  United  States  on  the  1st  of  December,  1870 : 


DEBT   BEARING   INTEREST   IN   COIN. 


Authorizing 
Acts. 

Character  of 
Issue. 

Rate, 

Amount 
Outbuilding. 

When    Redeemable 
or  Payable. 

Accrued 
Intercut. 

Juno  14,  '58 
June  22,  '60 
Feb.    8,  '61 
March  2,  '61 
July  17  and 
Aug.  5,  '61 

Feb.  25,  '62 

March  3,  '63 
March  3,  '64 

March  3,  '64 
Juno  30,  '64 
March  3,  '65 
March  3,  '65 
March  3,  '65 
March  3,  'Go 

Bonds  

Bonds 

5  per  ct. 
5perct. 
6  per  ct. 
6  per  ct. 
6perct. 

6perct. 

6  per  ct. 
5  perct. 

6  per  ct. 
6  perct. 
6  per  ct. 
6  per  ct. 
6  per  ct. 
6  per  ct. 

$  2(>,OOU,00;J 
4,410,000 
18,415,000 
945,000 
189,318,100 

496,209,300 

75,000,000 
194,567,300 

3,123,600 
105,141,750 
186,799,450 
270,309,350 
339,846,000 
39,667,250 

Payable  10  years  from  Jan.  1,  1861  
Payable  after  Dec.  31,  1880  

$  410,006  67 
91,  £75  00 
460,375  00 
23,625  00 

4,732,952  50 

2,481,046  50 
1,875,000  00 

2,432,091  25 
15,618  00 
525,708  75 
933,997  25 
6,757,733  75 
8,496,150  00 

Bonds,  1881  
Bds.  (Oregon)  '81 
1  Bonds,  1881.... 

Bonds,  5-20's  

Bonds,  1881  
Bonds,  10-40's.... 

Bonds,  5-20's  
Bonds,  5-20's  
Bonds,  5-20's  
Bonds,  5-20's  
Bonds,  5-20's  
Bonds,  5-20's  

Redeemable  20  years  from  July  1,  1S61.. 

Payable  at  option  of  Government  after 
20  years  from  June  30,  1861  

Redeemable  after  5  and  payable  20  years 
from  May  1  1862  

Payable  after  June  30  1881  

Redeemable   after  10   and   payable   40 
years  from  March  1   1864 

Redeemable  after  5  and  payable  20  years 
from  Nov.  1,  1864  

Redeemable  after  5  and  payable  20  years 
from  Nov.  1   1864   

Redeemable  after  5  and  payable  20  years 
from  Nov  1  1865 

Redeemable  after  5  and  payable  20  years 
from  July  1   1865  

Eledeemable  after  5  and  payable  20  years 
from  July  1   1867   

ledeemable  after  5  and  payable  20  year* 

Aggregate  of  Debt  bear'g  Coin  Int... 

Coupons  due  not  presented 
Total  

$1,943,752,100 
For  payment. 

$30,234,520  92 
1(1,419,030  15 

$40,654,451  07 

DEBT   BEARING   NO   INTEREST. 


Authorising 
Acts. 

Character  of 
Issue. 

Amount 
Outstanding. 

July  17,  1861,  Feb.  12,  1862.. 
Feb.  25,  1862,    July   11.1 
1862,  March  3,  1863....;  } 

July  17,  186J,  March   3,1 
1863,  June  30,  1864  j 

March  3,1863  

Demand  Notes  
United  States   Legal 
Tender  Notes  

Fractional  Currency.. 

Certif.  Gold  Deposit... 
bearing  no  interest.. 

No  interest  

£232,668,500  00 
123,331,500  00 
4,445,329  87 
3,246,324  43 
7,945,600  34 
23,529,661  44 

$  102,321  00 
356,000,000  00 

39,166,916  08 
16,582,620  00 

I  N«  ir,t  /New  Issue.! 
/  No  lnt-  (  Series  69  ... 
f  First  Series  
J  Second  Series  

1  Third  Series  
l^  Fourth  Series 

No  interest 

Aggregate  of  Debt 

J411.851.857  08 

THE    UNITED    STATES.  99 

DEBT   ON  WHICH  INTEREST  HAS  CEASED  SINCE  MATURITY. 


Authorizing 
Acts. 

Character  of 
Issue. 

Rate. 

Amount 
Outstanding. 

Matured. 

Accrued 
Interest. 

A;,ril  15,  1S42  
.Tin    281847 

Bonds  
Bonds     

fi 

$  6,000  00 
2,150  00 
24,900  00 
242,000  00 
89,625  35 
2,000  00 
3,200  00 

23,350  00 
223,882  00 
5,000  00 
1,995,920  00 
180,810  00 

542,250  00 

Dec  31  1862 

$  360  00 
741   00 
1,281  00 
12,100  00 
2,938  76 
108  00 
195  00 

852  30 
12,266  28 
313  48 

380,111  04 
7,444  24 

19,792  14 
$438,503  24 

,  P 

Dec  31  1867 

M  :ii  ch  31,  1848  
Sept.  9,  1850  
Prior  to  1857  
Dec.  23,  1857  
March  2,1861  
July  17  1861 

Bonds  
Bmids,  Texas  Ind.. 
Treasury  Notes  
Treasury  Notes  
Treasury  Notes  
Treasury  Notes,  3 

6  per  cent  
5  per  cent  
1  m.  to  6  per  ct... 
3  to  5J  per  cent... 
6  per  cent  

7  3-10  per  cent... 
5  per  cent  
6  per  cent  

July  1,  '68,  9  mos.  int... 
Dec.  31  1864  

At  various  dates  
March  1,  1859  
April  and  May,  1863.... 

Aug.  19  &  Oct.  1,  1864.. 
Jan.  7  to  April  1,1866... 
At  various  dates  in  1866 

June  10,  1867,  and  May 
15  1868 

March  3,  1863  

March  3,  1863  
March  3,  1863,  and 
June  30,  1864  

June  30,  18G4  

June  30,  1864,  and 
March  3,  1865.... 

Aggreg.  of  debt  on 
Total 

Treasury  Notes,  1 
and  2  years  
Certificates  of  In- 

Compound     Inter- 
est Notes  

Temporary  Loan... 
Treasury  Notes,  3 

4,  5,  6  per  cent... 

7  3-10  per  cent... 
ceased  

Oct.  15,  1866  

Aug.  15,  1867,  and  June 
15  and  July  15,  1868.. 

which  interest  has 

$3,341,087  35 

DEBT  BEARING  INTEREST  IN  LAWFUL  MONEY. 


Authorizing 
Acts. 

Character  of 
Issue. 

Rate. 

Amount 
Outstanding. 

When  Redeemable 
or  Payable. 

Accrued 
Interest. 

March  2,  1867  and 
July  25,  1868  
July  23,1868  

July  8,1870  
Aggreg.  of  debt  be 

Certificates  
Navy  Pension  Fund. 

Cert,  indebt'70  
aring  currency  inter 

3  per  ct. 
3  per  ct. 

4  per  ct. 

3St  

$45,050,000  00 
14,000,000  00 

678,000  00 

On  demand  (int.  estimated).. 
Interest  only  applicable  to 
payment  of  pensions  
September  1,  1875  

$182,584  34 

175,000  00 
6,780  00 

$59,728,000  00 

Accrued  interest  

$364,364  34 

RECAPITULATION. 


Character  of  Issue. 

Amt.  Outstanding. 

Interest. 

$218,977,300  00 
1,724,774,800  00 

45,050,000  00 
14,000,000  00 
678,000  00 

$1,943,752,100  00 

59,728,000  00 
3,341,087  35 

411,851,857  08 

$40,654,451  07 

364,364  34 
438,503  24 

Debt  bear,  coin  interest]  jgJJJ  J«  J  JJ  JJ[  

Debt  bearing  interest  in  lawful  money  : 
Certificates  at  3  per  cent 

Debt  bearing  no  interest  : 
Demand  and  Legal-tender  notes  

356,102,321  00 
39,163,916  08 
16,582,620  00 

Total  amount  outstanding  

$2,418,673,044  43 

41,457,318  65 

Total  debt,  principal  and  interest  to  date,  including  interest  due  and  un 

paid  

$2,460,130,363  08 

$97  3fi8  <V77  81 

Currency....                                                                   ..     28.453.29062 

Debt,  less  amount  in  the  Treasury 2,334,308,494  65 

Debt,  less  amount  in  the  Treasury  on  the  1st  ultimo 2,341,784,355  55 

Decrease  of  debt  during  the  past  month 7,475,860  98 

Decrease  of  debt  since  March  1,  1870 ,      104,019,982  52 

Decrease   of  Debt    since  March  1,  1869,  21    months,  as    shown    by  the  _  .        — : 

monthly  statements  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury $191,154,765  36 


100 


THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


BONDS  ISSUED  TO  THE  PACIFIC  R.  R.'s  INT.  PAYABLE  IN  LAWFUL  MONEY. 


Authorizing 
Acts. 

Character  of  Issue. 

Rate  of  Int. 

Amount 
Outstanding. 

When  Redeemable 
or  fayable. 

July  1,  *«2,  and 
July  2,  '64  
July  1,'62,  and 
July  2,  '64  

July  1,  '62,  and 
July  2,  '64  
July  1,  '6-2,  and 
July  2,  '64  
July  1,  '62,  and 
July  2,  '64  

July  1,  '62,  and 
July  2,  '64  

Total   iss 

6  per  ct. 

6  per  ct. 
6  per  ct. 
6  per  ct. 

6  per  ct. 
6  per  ct. 

$27,236,512  00 

6,303,000  00 
1,628,320  00 
25,881,000  00 

1,600,000  00 
1,970,000  00 

30  years  from  date. 

30  years  from  date. 
30  years  from  date. 
30  years  from  date. 

30  years  from  date. 
30  years  from  date. 

Bonds   Kansas   Pacific,  late  Union   Paicfic, 
Eastern  Division                            

Bonds  Sioux  City  and  Pacific  

Bonds  Central  Pacific              .         

Bonds   Central    Branch   U.  P.,  assignees  of 
Achisou  and  Pike's  Peak      

Bonds  Western  Pacific  

nod...  . 

$64.618,832  00 

Authorizing 
Acts. 

Interest  Payable. 

Rate  of 
Interest. 

Interest  ac- 
crued  and 
not  yet  paid. 

Interest  paid 
by 
United  States. 

Interest  re- 
paid by  trans, 
mails,  etc. 

Balance  of  Int. 
paid  by 
United  Statei. 

Jnlv  1,  '62,  &) 
July  2,  '64.../ 

Jan.  1    and  July  1,  1 
Jan.  1  and  July  1.  J 

6  perct. 

$680,912  80 

$3,713,371  05 

$1,434,952  33 

$2,278,418  72 

Jnlv  1,  '62,  and 

July  2,  '64  

Jan.  1  and  July  1  

6  per  ct. 

157,575  00 

1,212,993  09 

724,823  67 

488,169  42 

\      July  1,  '6-2,  and 

July  2,  '64  

Jan.  1  and  July  1  

6  per  ct. 

40,708  00 

194,207  89 

396  08 

193,811  81 

July   1,  'H2,  and 

July  2,  '64  

Jan.   1    and    July  1, 

. 

Jan.  1  aud  July  1... 

6  per  ct. 

647,025  00 

3,261,767  84 

241,638  70 

3,020,129  14 

Jnlv  1,  '62,  and 

July  2,  '64  

Jan.  1  and  July  1  

6  per  ct. 

40,000  00 

301,808  26 

7,401  92 

294,406  34 

July  1,  '(5-2,  and 

July  2,  '64  

Jan.  1  and  July  1  

6  per  ct. 

49,250  00 

131,197  36 

8,281   25 

122,916  11 

Total  issued 

$1  61  5  470  80 

$8  Sin  345  49 

$2  417  493  9-i 

$6  397  851  54 

The  foregoing  is  a  correct  statement  of  the  Public  Debt,  as  appears  from  the  books  and 
Treasurer's  returns  in  the  Department  at  the  close  of  business  on  the  last  day  of  November, 
1870.  (Signed)  GEORGE  S.  BOUTWELL, 

Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 

The  revenues  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30th,  1868,  were 
$405,000,000,  and  the  expenditures  $377,000,000,  leaving  in  the 
Treasury  a  balance  of  $28,000,000.  Of  the  expenditures  for  the  year 
given  above,  $79,000,000  were  extraordinary. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1867,  there  were  in  the  United  States  1644 
banks  existing  under  the  National  Bank  Act  of  the  United  States; 
and  also  297  banks  operating  under  the  laws  of  their  respective 
States ;  making  a  total  of  1941  banks  doing  business  in  the  Republic. 
They  employed  an  aggregate  capital  of  $486,258,464,  divided  amongst 
the  two  classes  as  follows:  National  Banks,  $419,779,739,  State 
B  inks,  $66,478,725.  The  following  table,  taken  from  the  statements 
of  the  National  Banking  Association  of  the  United  States,  will  show 
the  condition  of  th'e  National  Banks  in  January,  1867  : 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  101 

RESOURCES. 

Loans  and  Discounts, $608,411,902 

Over  Drafts, 

Real  Estate,  etc.,       18,861,138 

j                Expense  Account, 2,795,322 

Premiums, 2,852,945 

Cash  Items,       101,330,984 

Due  from  National  Banks, 92,492,446 

Due  from  other  Banks, 12,981,445 

Bonds  for  Circulation,        ..' 339,180,700 

Other  United, States  Bonds, 88,940,000 

Bills  of  other  Banks, 20,381,726 

Specie, 16,634,972 

Lawful  Money, 186,511,927 

Stocks,  Bonds,  and  Mortgages, 15,072,738 

Aggregate, $1,506,448,245 

LIABILITIES. 

Capital  Stock  paid  in, $419,779,739 

Surplus  Fund,       59,967,222 

National  Bank-notes, 291,093,294 

State  Bank-notes, 6,961,499 

Individual  Deposits, 555,179,944 

United  States  Deposits, 27,225,663 

To  United  States  Disbursing  Officers,    .    .    .  2,275,385 

Dividends  Unpaid, 

Due  to  National  Banks, 92,755,561 

Due  to  other  Banks  and  Bankers,      ....  24,322,614 

Profits, 26,877,324 

Other  items, 

Aggregate, $1,506,448,245 

HISTORY. 

There  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  savages  who  were  found  in 
America  by  the  first  European  settlers  were  not  the  original  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Continent,  but  that  they  were  preceded  at  a  very  remote 
period  by  another  and  a  more  powerful  race,  unknown  and  long  ex- 
tinct, but  which  has  left  vague  evidence  of  its  existence  in  the  curious 
mounds  and  earthworks  which  are  to  be  seen  in  various  parts  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley.  At  the  time  of  its  discovery  by  the  whites,  how- 
ever, the  red  men  were  the  sole  human  occupants  of  the  Continent, 
which  was  covered  with  vast  woods  and  plains  abounding  with  game 
of  every  description,  the  pursuit  of  which  formed  the  principal  occu- 
pation of  the  natives,  and  furnished  them  with  food  and  clothing. 


102  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Indians  were  really  one  people  in  physical  appearance,  man- 
ners, customs,  religion,  and  in  the  observances  of  their  social  and 
political  systems,  but  were  divided  into  numerous  tribes,  each  of 
which  had  a  dialect  distinct  from  that  of  the  others.  The  tribes  were 
for  the  most  part  bitterly  hostile  to,  and  constantly  engaged  in  war 
with  each  other.  They  are  generally  divided  into  eight  nations, 
speaking  eight  radically  distinct  languages.  These  were : 

I.  The  Algonquins,  who  inhabited  the  territory  now  comprised  in 
the  six  New  England  States,  the  eastern  part  of  New  York  and  Penn- 
sylvania, New  Jersey,  Delaware,  Maryland,  Virginia,  North  Carolina 
as  far  south  as  Cape  Fear,  a  large  part  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee, 
and  nearly  all  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  and 
Minnesota.     This  nation  was  subdivided  into  the  following  tribes : 
the  Knistenaux,  Ottawas,  Chippewas,  Sacs  and  Foxes,  Menomonees, 
Miamis,  Piankeshaws,  Potawatomies,  Kickapoos,  Illinois,  Shawnees, 
Powhatans,  Corees,  Nanticokes,  Lenni-Lenapes  or  Delawares,  Mohe- 
gans,  Narragansets,  Pequots,  and  Abenakis. 

II.  The  Iroquois,  who  occupied  almost  all  of  that  part  of  Canada 
south  of  the  Ottawa,  and  between  Lakes  Ontarto,  Erie,  and  Huron, 
the  greater  part  of  New  York,  and  the  country  lying  along  the  south 
shore  of  Lake  Erie,  now  included  in  the  States  of  Ohio  and  Pennsyl- 
vania.    This  territory,  it  will  be  seen,  was  completely  surrounded  by 
the  domains  of  their  powerful  and   bitter  enemies,  the  Algonquins. 
The  nation  was  subdivided   into  the  following  tribes:    the  Senecas, 
Cayugas,  Onondagas,  Oneidas,  and  Mohawks.     These  five  were  after- 
wards called  by  the  English  the  Five  Nations.   In  1722,  they  admitted 
the  Tuscaroras  into  their  confederation,  and  were  afterwards  called 
the  Six  Nations.     The  nation  called  itself  collectively  the  Konoskioni, 
or  "Cabin-builders."     The  Algonquins  termed  them   Mingoes,  the 
French,  Iroquois,  and  the  English,  Mohawks,  or  Mingoes. 

III.  The  Catawbas,  who  dweft  along  the  banks  of  the  Yadkin  and 
Catawba  Rivers,  near  the  line  which  at  present  separates  the  States 
of  North  and  South  Carolina. 

IV.  The  Cherokees,  whose  lands  were  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
Broad  River  of  the  Carolinas,  including  all  of  Northern  Georgia. 

V.  The  Uchees,  who  dwelt  south  of  the  Cherokees,  along  the  Sa- 
vannah, the  Oconee,  and  the  headwaters  of  the  Ogeechee  and  Chatta- 
hoochee.    They  spoke  a  harsh  and  singular  language,  and  are  believed 
to  have  been  the  remnant  of  a  once  powerful  nation. 

VI.  The  Mobilian  Nation,  who  inhabited  all  of  Georgia  and  South 


104  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Carolina  not  mentioned  in  the  above  statements,  a  part  of  Kentucky 
and  Tennessee,  and  all  of  Florida,  Alabama,  and  Mississippi.  Their 
territory  was  next  in  extent  to  that  of  the  Algonquins,  and  extended 
along  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  Mississippi 
River.  The  nation  was  divided  into  three  great  confederations — the 
Creeks  or  Muscogees,  the  Choctaws,  and  the  Chickasaws — and  was 
subdivided  into  a  number  of  smaller  tribes,  the  principal  of  which 
were  the  Seminoles  and  Yemassees,  who  were  members  of  the  Creek 
Confederation. 

VII.  The  Natchez,  who  dwelt  in  a  small  territory  east  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  along  the  banks  of  the  Pearl  River.     They  were  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  by  the  tribes  of  the  Mobilian  language,  yet 
remained  until  their  extinction  a  separate  nation,  speaking  a  distinct 
language  peculiar  to  themselves,  and  worshipping  the  sun  as  their 
god.     They  are  believed   to  have  been  the  most  civilized  of  all  the 
savage  tribes  of  North  America. 

VIII.  The  Dacotahs  or  Sioux,  whose  territory  was  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Lake  Winnipeg,  on  the  south  by  the  Arkansas  River,  on 
the  east  by  the  Mississippi,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  nation  was  divided  into  the  following   branches :    the  Wiune- 
bagoes,  living   between  Lake   Michigan  and   the   Mississippi;   the 
Assiniboins,  living  in  the  extreme  north ;  the  Southern  Sioux,  living 
between  the  Arkansas  and  the  Platte ;  and  the  Minatarees,  Mandans, 
and  Crows,  who  lived  west  of  the  Assiniboins. 

The  great  plains,  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  Pacific  coast  were 
held  by  the  powerful  tribes  of  the  Pawnees,  Comanches,  Apachees, 
Utahs,  Black  Feet,  Snakes,  Nezperces,  Flatheads,  and  California 
Indians. 

These  were  the  inhabitants  and  possessors  of  the  country  at  the 
time  of  its  first  settlement. 

In  the  year  1492,  Christopher  Columbus,  a  native  of]  Genoa,  in 
Italy,  sailing  under  the  orders  of  the  King  and  Queen  of  Spain,  dis- 
covered the  West  Indies ;  and  thus  proved  beyond  all  doubt  the  ex- 
istence of  a  new  world.  There  is  a  Scandinavian  tradition  that  a 
Norwegian  named  Leif,  in  the  year  1002,  on  bis  voyage  from  Iceland 
to  Greenland,  was  driven  southward  by  storms,  to  a  country  which 
was  unknown  to  Europeans,  and  which  he  called  Vinland,  because 
of  the  wild  grapes  with  which  he  found  it  covered.  It  is  also  said 
that  his  discovery  was  followed  by  several  Scandinavian  settlements, 
oone  of  which  proved  permanent.  It  is  supposed  by  some  writers 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  105 

that  the  country  alluded  to  as  Vinland,  in  this  tradition,  was  the 
State  of  Rhode  Island ;  but  as  the  legend  rests  upon  no  solid  founda- 
tion, the  credit  of  having  been  the  first  to  discover  the  New  World 
must  be  accorded  to  Columbus. 

On  the  24th  of  June,  1497,  John  Cabot,  a  Venitian,  commanding 
a  ship  belonging  to  Henry  VII.  of  England,  discovered  land,  along 
which  he  sailed  to  the  southward  for  over  1000  miles,  making  fre- 
quent landings,  and  taking  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of 
the  English  King.  The  next  year  his  son,  Sebastian  Cabot,  left 
Bristol,  England,  with  two  ships,  to  seek  a  northwest  passage  to 
China.  He  was  stopped  by  the  ice,  however,  and  turned  about  and 
sailed  southward  down  the  American  coast  as  far  as  the  capes  of  Vir- 
ginia— the  entrance  to  Chesapeake  Bay.  In  1513,  Ponce  de  Leon, 
acting  under  the  authority  of  the  King  of  Spain,  discovered  Florida, 
and  took  possession  of  the  country  near  the  present  site  of  the  town 
of  St.  Augustine.  A  short  while  after,  he  returned  and  attempted  to 
establish  a  colony.  He  was  attacked  and  killed,  and  his  followers 
driven  away  by  the  natives.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1523, 
John  Verazzani,  a  native  of  Florence,  was  sent  by  Francis  I.,  of 
France,  to  explore  the  New  World.  He  was  fifty  days  in  crossing  the 
ocean,  being  vexed  by  terrible  storms  all  the  way,  and  made  land  off 
the  mouth  of  the  Cape  Fear  River,  near  the  present  city  of  Wilming- 
ton, North  Carolina.  He  sailed  southward  for  150  miles,  in  search 
of  a  convenient  harbor,  but,  failing  to  find  one,  passed  up  the  coast  as 
far  north  as  Nova  Scotia.  He  visited  New  York  and  Newport  har- 
bors, as  they  are  now  called,  both  of  which  are  accurately  described 
in  the  account  of  his  voyage.  In  1539j  Hernando  de  Soto  landed 
with  several  hundred  men,  in  Tampa  Bay,  Florida,  and  marched 
across  the  continent,  defeating  the  natives  on  his  way,  and  discovered 
the  Mississippi  River,  near  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Helena, 
Arkansas.  He  passed  through  the  region  now  comprising  the  States 
of  Georgia,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  and  Louisiana,  and  penetrated  200 
miles  west  of  the  great  river.  Two  years  after  his  landing  in  Florida, 
he  wandered  back  to  the  Mississippi,  where  he  died,  and  was  buried 
at  midnight  in  the  stream.  His  followers,  disheartened  by  his  death, 
descended  the  river  in  boats  to  its  mouth,  and,  crossing  the  Gulf, 
sought  refuge  in  the  Spanish  settlements  in  Mexico,  where  they  told 
marvellous  stories  of  the  country  they  had  seen. 

For  several  years  there  was  no  further  effort  made  to  colonize  the 
New  World.  In  1562,  a  band  of  French  Calvinists,  or  Huguenots, 


106  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

acting  upon  the  advice  of  Admiral  Coligni,  endeavored  to  found  a 
colony  here,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  refuge  for  French  Pro- 
testants, who  should  be  driven  out  of  their  own  country  by  the  perse- 
cutions of  the  Roman  Catholics.  A  charter  was  granted  by  Charles 
IX.  of  France,  and  an  expedition  sent  out,  under  Jean  Ribault,  which 
made  a  settlement  at  Port  Royal,  in  a  country  which  was  called 
Carolina,  in  honor  of  the  French  King.  This  settlement  was  soon 
abandoned,  however,  and  another  established  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
John's  River,  in  Florida.  In  1565,  Spain  renewed  her  efforts  to 
colonize  Florida.  An  expedition  was  sent  out  in  that  year,  which 
destroyed  the  French  settlement  on  the  St.  John's  River,  and  mas- 
sacred the  inhabitants.  Having  removed  their  rivals,  the  Spaniards 
then  proceeded  to  found  the  town  of  St.  Augustine,  which  is  the  oldest 
and  first  permanent  European  settlement  in  the  present  territory  of 
the  Union. 

The  English  paid  little  or  no  attention  to  the  discoveries  of  the 
Cabots  for  nearly  a  century.  Then,  alarmed  by  the  efforts  which 
France  and  Spain  were  making  to  secure  a  footing  in  the  New  World, 
England  began  the  task  of  colonizing  her  distant  lands  upon  a  larger 
scale  than  had  been  attempted  by  either  of  her  rivals,  and  was  not 
slow  to  assert  the  claim  which  the  discoveries  of  the  Cabots  had  given 
her,  and  which,  indeed,  she  had  never  relinquished. 

The  first  colony  was  sent  out  in  1585,  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth, 
under  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  and  was  established  on  Roanoke  Island, 
in  the  present  State  of  North  Carolina,  a  site  which  Raleigh  had  dis- 
covered during  the  previous  year,  and  where  he  had  been  hospitably 
entertained  by  the  natives.  The  whole  country  was  called  Virginia, 
in  honor  of  the  Virgin  Queen  of  England.  The  colony  did  not  pros- 
per, however,  and  in  a  few  years  it  was  utterly  gone.  In  1606, 
James  I.  divided  the  English  possessions  in  America  into  two  parts — - 
North  Virginia,  extending  from  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  River  to 
Newfoundland,  and  South  Virginia,  extending  from  the  Potomac  to 
Cape  Fear.  Two  companies  were  formed  in  England  for  colonizing 
these  regions,  the  London  Company,  which  received  from  the  king 
the  grant  of  South  Virginia,  and  the  Plymouth  Company,  to  which 
the  king  gave  North  Virginia.  These  companies  agreed  to  colonize 
their  respective  grants  with  due  promptness,  and  to  regard  the  terri- 
tory lying  between  the  Potomac  and  the  Hudson  as  neutral  ground, 
upon  which  both  companies  were  free  to  make  settlements  at  pleasure. 
The  London  Company  went  to  work  at  once,  and  sent  over  an  expe- 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


10? 


THE   RUINS   OF   JAMESTOWN  :    THE   FIRST   PERMANENT   ENGLISH   SETTLE- 
MENT  IN   AMERICA. 

dition  commanded  by  Captain  Newport,  which  made  a  lodgement 
on  the  north  shore  of  the  James  River,  in  the  present  State  of  Vir- 
ginia, on  the  13th  of  May,  1607.  They  called  their  settlement 
Jamestown,  and  the  river  on  which  it  was  located,  the  James,  in 
honor  of  their  sovereign.  The  command  of  this  expedition  was 
vested  in  Captain  Newport,  but  the  life  and  soul  of  the  whole 
undertaking  was  the  celebrated  Captain  John  Smith,  'to  whom 
alone  is  due  the  credit  of  carrying  the  colony  firmly  through  the 
dangers  and  trials  which  surrounded  its  infancy,  and  planting  it 
upon  a  permanent  basis.  He  explored  the  Chesapeake  and  its 
tributaries,  of  which  he  made  maps  and  sketches  which  are  noted 
to-day  for  their  accuracy. 

These  voyages  of  discovery  were  made  in  an  open  boat,  the 
crew  of  which  he  could  not  always  depend  upon.  They  were 
full  of  romantic  adventure.  In  one  of  them  he  was  captured 
and  condemned  to  death  by  the  Indians,  but  was  rescued  by 
Pocahontas,  the  daughter  of  king  Powhatan.  Captain  Smith  made 


108  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

several  voyages  between  England  and  America,  and  in  1614  explored 
and  made  excellent  drawings  of  the  coast  from  Cape  Cod  to  the  Pen- 
obscot.  To  this  part  of  the  country  he  gave  the  name  of  New  Eng- 
land, by  which  it  has  since  been  known.  He  won  the  friendship  of 
the  Indians  for  the  whites  in  Virginia,  and  by  his  maps  and  descrip- 
tions did  more  in  England  than  was  done  by  any  other  man  to  arouse 
that  enthusiasm  which  finally  led  to  the  successful  planting  of  the 
whole  Atlantic  coast  of  America  with  English  settlements. 

The  government  of  the  Colony  of  Virginia  was  at  first  vested  in  a 
council  appointed  by  the  king,  but  this  arrangement  was  found  to 
work  so  badly  that  a  change  was  made,  which  was  followed  by  seve- 
ral others,  until  at  length  a  House  of  Burgesses,  chosen  by  the  people, 
was  established.  This  Assembly,  which  was  the  first  representative 
body  that  ever  sat  in  America,  met  on  the  19th  of  June,  1619.  This 
event,  so  important  in  our  history,  was  followed  by  two  of  equal 
moment,  one  in  August,  of  the  same  year,  when  a  Dutch  man-of-war 
entered  the  James  River  arid  sold  a  cargo  of  20  Africans  to  the 
planters  of  Virginia,  thus  introducing  negro  slavery  into  the  Colonies; 
and  another  in  1621,  when  the  cultivation  of  cotton  was  begun  in 
Virginia. 

The  Plymouth  Company  made  extensive  preparations  on  paper  for 
the  settlement  of  their  immense  territory.  Their  charter  gave  them 
absolute  property  in  and  authority  over  the  vast  region  lying  between 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  and  bounded  by  the  40th  and  48th  parallels 
of  North  latitude,  and  they  prepared  to  make  very  hard  bargains 
with  those  who  wished  to  buy  lands  of  them.  The  first  settlement  in 
their  domain,  however,  was  made  without  their  consent  or  authority, 
by  a  band  of  Puritans,  under  the  leadership  of  John  Carver,  William 
Brewster,  William  Bradford,  Edward  Winslow,  and  Miles  Standish. 
This  colony  sailed  from  England  on  the  6th  of  September,  1620,  in  a 
vessel  of  180  tons  burthen,  called  the  Mayflower,  and  landed  on  the 
coast  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  on  the  21st  of  December  of  the  same  year. 
They  numbered  100  men,  women,  and  children,  and  at  once  pro- 
ceeded to  found  a  settlement,  which  they  named  Plymouth,  in  honor 
of  the  last  English  port  from  which  they  had  sailed,  and  where  they 
had  been  kindly  treated.  They  had  no  charter  from  the  king,  or 
sanction  from  the  Plymouth  Company,  but  conducted  their  enterprise 
upon  their  own  responsibility,  looking  to  God  for  assistance  and  pro- 
tection. While  still  on  their  voyage,  they  arranged  the  form  of  their 
government.  They  organized  it  upon  a  basis  of  religion  as  well  as 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


109 


PLYMOUTH  ROCK. 


of  civil  justice.  Their  religious  system  is  well  described  by  Robert- 
son, who  says:  "They  united  together  in  a  religious  society,  by  a 
solemn  covenant  with  God,  and  with  one  another,  and  in  strict  con- 
formity, as  they  imagined,  to  the  rules  of  Scripture.  They  elected  a 
Pastor,  an  Elder,  and  a  Teacher,  whom  they  set  apart  by  the  imposi- 
tion of  the  hands  of  the  brethren.  All  who  were  that  day  admitted 
members  of  the  church,  signified  their  assent  to  a  confession  of  faith 
drawn  up  by  their  Teacher,  and  gave  an  account  of  their  own  hopes 
as  Christians;  and  it  was  declared  that  no  person  should  hereafter  be 


HO  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

received  into  communion  until  lie  gave  satisfaction  to  the  church  with 
respect  to  his  faith  and  sanctity.  The  form  of  public  worship  which 
they  instituted  was  without  a  liturgy,  disencumbered  of  every  super- 
fluous ceremony,  and  reduced  to  the  lowest  standard  of  Calvinistic 
simplicity."  Their  civil  system  was  thoroughly  republican.  The 
governor  was  chosen  by  the  people,  and  his  acts  were  subject  to  the 
approval  of  a  council  consisting  at  first  of  5  and  afterwards  of  7  as- 
sistants. In  the  beginning  the  legislative  power  was  vested  in  the 
whole  people,  but  as  the  colony  expanded  a  legislature  elected  by  the 
people  was  established.  In  1629,  the  colony  received  a  charter  from 
Charles  I.  of  England.  It  prospered  from  the  first,  and  its  success 
brought  over  other  arrivals  from  England.  In  1628,  a  settlement 
was  made  by  a  band  of  Puritans  from  England,  under  John  Endicott, 
at  Salem,  on  Massachusetts  Bay,  which  general  name  was  given  to 
the  new  colony.  In  1630,  a  fleet  with  840  new  settlers,  under  John 
Winthrop,  arrived  from  England,  and  in  September  of  that  year 
founded  the  city  of  Boston,  which  they  named  in  honor  of  the  village 
in  England  from  which  the  Rev.  John  Cotton,  their  pastor,  came.  * 
New  settlers  now  came  over  by  scores,  the  number  of  inhabitants  in- 
creased rapidly,  and  in  1690  the  colonies  of  Plymouth  and  Massa- 
chusetts Bay  were  united  under  one  government. 

In  1623,  Sir  Fernando  Gorges  and  John  Mason  took  out  a  patent 
for  a  territory  called  Taconia,  lying  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  Merrimack  and  the  Kennebec.  In  the  same  year 
they  settled  the  cities  of  Portsmouth  and  Dover,  in  New  Hampshire. 
A  French  colony  had  been  planted  in  Maine  in  1613,  but  had  been 
broken  up  by  an  expedition  from  Virginia,  and  the  first  permanent 
settlements  in  Maine  were  made  by  the  English  at  Saco  and  on 
Monhegan  Island,  in  1622  or  1623.  These  settlements  some  years 
later  became  a  part  of  the  territory  of  Massachusetts,  and  were  re- 
tained by  her  until  the  formation  of  the  State  of  Maine  in  1820. 

In  1635,  a  company  of  emigrants  from  Massachusetts,  under  the 
pious  Hooker,  settled  the  region  now  comprised  in  the  State  of  Con- 
necticut, by  founding  the  towns  of  Hartford  and  Wethersfield.  The 
Dutch  had  built  a  trading  post  and  fort  at  Hartford  in  1633,  and  a 
few  huts  at  Wethersfield  in  1634,  and  claimed  the  territory  in  con- 
sequence of  this,  but  their  claim  was  not  regarded  by  the  English. 

*  It  is  not  a  little  curious  that  the  Puritan  Fathers  should  have  given 
their  metropolis  the  name  of  a  famous  Roman  Catholic  Saint. 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


Ill 


THE    FIRST    SETTLEMENT    OF    THE    CITY    OF    NEW  YORK. 

In  1636,  Roger  Williams,  who  had  been  exiled  from  Massachusetts 
on  account  of  his  religious  opinions,  founded  the  colony  of  Rhode 
Island,  by  settling  the  town  of  Providence,  which  is  now  the  capital 
of  the  State. 

New  York  was  settled  by  the  Dutch,  but  the  State  was  first  entered 
by  a  French  navigator  named  Samuel  Champlain,  who  discovered  the 
lake  to  which  he  has  given  his  name,  in  July,  1609,  and  fought  a 
battle  on  its  shores  with  a  band  of  Mohawks.  He  inflicted  a  severe 
defeat  upon  them,  and  from  that  time  the  Six  Nations  were  the  bitter 


112  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  lasting  enemies  of  the  French.  On  the  6th  of  September,  1609, 
Henry  Hudson,  an  Englishman,  sailing  under  the  orders  of  the 
Dutch  East  India  Company,  entered  the  Bay  of  New  York,  discovered 
the  great  river  which  bears  his  name,  and  ascended  it  to  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  present  city  of  Albany.  He  took  possession  of  the 
country  for  the  Government  of  Holland,  by  which  it  was  named  New 
Netherlands.  A  few  years  later  trading  posts  and  forts  were  estab- 
lished on  Manhattan  Island  (New  York  City),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Hudson,  and  at  Fort  Orange  (Albany).  In  1623,  thirty  families  settled 
on  Manhattan  Island,  and  called  their  settlement  New  Amsterdam,  and 
in  the  same  year  eighteen  families  came  over  to  Fort  Orange.  From 
this  time  the  Dutch  settlements  grew  rapidly.  They  extended  along 
the  Hudson,  as  far  eastward  as  Connecticut,  and  as  far  southward  as 
the  Delaware.  The  Swedes,  who  had  settled  the  latter  river,  and  had 
villages  along  both  banks  of  the  Delaware,  almost  as  far  up  as  the 
present  city  of  Philadelphia,  resisted  the  Dutch  encroachments,  but  were 
finally  driven  away  in  1655  by  a  military  expedition  of  the  latter.  The 
English,  who  claimed  the  whole  country  by  right  of  Cabot's  discovery, 
finding  that  all  diplomatic  efforts  to  induce  the  Dutch  to  abandon  their 
American  settlements  were  vain,  terminated  the  controversy  by  taking 
forcible  possession  of  the  province  of  New  Netherlands  in  1664.  They 
changed  the  names  of  the  province  and  the  principal  settlement,  New 
Amsterdam,  to  New  York,  and  that  of  Fort  Orange  to  Albany,  in 
honor  of  the  Duke  of  York  and  Albany  (afterwards  James  II.,  of 
England),  to  whom  Charles  II.  had  granted  the  territory. 

That  portion  of  New  Jersey  lying  along  the  Hudson  was  settled  by 
the  Dutch  about  the  same  time  that  the  colony  of  New  Amsterdam 
began  to  attract  emigrants  from  Holland.  The  Swedes  settled  the 
southwest  portion  along  the  Delaware,  in  1627.  It  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  English  when  New  York  was  seized  by  them,  and  at 
the  same  time  acquired  the  name  which  it  bears  at  present,  Sir 
George  Carteret  and  Lord  Berkeley  purchased  the  territory  from  the 
Duke  of  York,  and  made  it  a  distinct  colony,  naming  it  New  Jersey, 
after  the  island  of  Jersey,  of  which  Sir  George  had  been  governor. 

Delaware  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1630.  They  established 
their  settlement  near  Lewes.  In  1633,  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by 
the  Indians.  In  1637,  a  company  of  Swedes  and  Finns  made  a  set- 
tlement on  the  island  of  Tinicum,  a  few  miles  below  Philadelphia. 
Several  other  settlements  were  formed,  and  the  country  was  called 
New  Sweden.  The  Dutch,  after  protesting  against  this  occupation  of 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


113 


THE    FIRST    SETTLERS    OF    AMERICA    CLEARING    THE    LAND. 


the  territory  by  the  Swedes,  made  war  upon  them,  and  in  1655  re- 
duced the  Swedish  forts,  and  sent  back  to  Europe  all  the  colonists 
who  refused  to  swear  allegiance  to  Holland.  The  Delaware  settle- 
ments were  held  by  the  Dutch  until  the  final  conquest  of  New 
Netherlands  by  the  English.  The  title  to  the  Delaware  lands  was 
disputed  by  Lord  Baltimore,  but  was  held  by  the  Duke  of  York, 
who  sold  it  to  William  Penn.  Penn's  rights  were  sustained  by  the 
English  authorities,  and  the  three  counties  of  Delaware  remained  a 
part  of  Pennsylvania  until  1703,  when  they  were  allowed  the  liberty 
8 


114  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  forming  a  separate  establishment.  Until  1776,  however,  the  same 
governor  administered  the  affairs  of  Pennsylvania  and  Delaware. 

In  1681,  William  Penn  procured  a  grant  of  the  lands  west  of  the 
Delaware,  and  in  1682  he  brought  over  a  colony  of  Friends,  or 
Quakers,  and  founded  the  city  of  Philadelphia.  His  colony  flourished 
from  the  beginning,  and  by  treating  the  Indians  with  kindness  and 
justice  in  his  dealings  with  them,  he  secured  their  warm  friendship, 
and  a  consequent  immunity  from  the  savage  warfare  to  which  the 
other  colonies  were  subjected.  There  was  peace  between  the  Indians 
and  the  whites  for  nearly  one  hundred  years.  About  the  year  1710, 
there  was  a  large  emigration  of  Germans  to  Pennsylvania.  They 
settled  in  the  southern  counties  of  the  colony,  which  are  to  this  day 
strongly  marked  by  German  characteristics. 

Maryland,  so  called  in  honor  of  Henrietta  Maria,  wife  of  Charles 
I.,  was  originally  settled  by  a  band  of  adventurers,  under  Captain 
William  Clayborne,  who  went  from  Virginia,  and  established  them- 
selves on  Kent  Island,  near  the  head  of  Chesapeake  Bay.  The 
province  was  granted  by  Charles  I.  to  Cecil  Calvert,  Lord  Baltimore, 
in  1632.  The  next  year  the  first  colony,  consisting  of  201  persons, 
mostly  Roman  Catholics,  sailed  for  America  in  two  vessels,  called  the 
Ark  and  the  Dove.  They  landed  on  St.  Clement's  Island,  on  the 
25th  of  March,  1634,  and  on  the  27th  began  the  settlement  of  St. 
Mary's,  in  what  is  now  St.  Mary's  County  in  that  State.  Their  first 
legislative  assembly  met  in  1639,  and  in  1649  passed  the  first  law 
ever  enacted  in  America  granting  religious  freedom  to  all  persons. 
This  memorable  Act  will  be  found  in  the  historical  sketch  of  the  State 
of  Maryland  farther  on. 

In  1670,  the  settlement  of  South  Carolina  was  begun  by  English 
colonists,  who  first  located  themselves  at  Port  Royal,  but  soon  re- 
moved to  Charleston.  The  country  south  of  Virginia  was  given  the 
general  name  of  Carolina,  and  was  governed  by  the  proprietors  under 
an  absurd  constitution  prepared  by  John  Locke.  In  1727,  the  King 
of  England  bought  out  the  proprietors,  and  divided  the  territory  into 
two  provinces,  called  respectively  North  and  South  Carolina.  Settle- 
ments in  North  Carolina  were  formed  by  emigrants  from  Virginia  as 
early  as  1653.  From  that  time  this  part  of  the  province  continued 
to  increase  in  population  as  rapidly  as  the  southern  part.  A  very 
large  number  of  French  Calvinists,  about  the  year  1690,  after  the 
revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  settled  in  South  Carolina.  Some 
years  later  they  were  followed  by  a  number  of  Swiss,  Irish,  and 
Germans. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  115 

Georgia,  originally  a  part  of  Carolina,  was  settled  in  1733,  by  a 
band  of  English  emigrants,  under  General  James  Oglethorpe.  The 
first  settlement  was  made  at  Yamacraw  Bluff,  the  site  of  the  present 
city  of  Savannah.  The  province  was  named  in  honor  of  George  II. 
of  England. 

Georgia  was  the  last  settled  of  all  the  English  colonies,  having  been 
founded  127  years  after  the  landing  at  Jamestown.  During  the  in- 
terval which  elapsed  between  these  two  events,  the  French  had  firmly 
planted  themselves  in  Canada,  and  had  established  settlements  along 
some  of  the  great  lakes  and  the  upper  Ohio,  and  in  portions  of  Indi- 
ana, Illinois,  and  Louisiana,  and  the  Spanish  had  settled  Florida  and 
New  Mexico.  The  English,  after  the  settlement  of  Georgia,  pos- 
sessed thirteen  vigorous  and  flourishing  colonies  in  America,  which 
were  rapidly  growing  in  importance,  wealth,  and  power.  They  had 
an  aggregate  population  of  about  2,000,000,  and  were  actively  en- 
gaged in  agriculture,  manufactures,  and  commerce.  The  majority  of 
the  inhabitants  were  from  England,  or  of  English  parentage,  but 
there  was  also  a  liberal  admixture  of  Scotch,  Irish,  French,  and  Ger- 
man elements.  The  prevailing  religious  sentiment  of  the  New 
England  colonies  was  Calvinistic.  Quakerism  predominated  in 
Pennsylvania,  and  Roman  Catholicism  in  Maryland;  while  the 
Church  of  England  claimed  as  her  children  the  majority  of  the  people 
of  New  York  and  of  the  southern  colonies.  African  slavery  had  be- 
come firmly  established  in  the  South,  and  the  industry  of  that  section 
nad  been  based  upon  it.  The  institution  of  slavery,  and  the  presence 
of  considerable  wealth  in  all  the  colonies  of  the  South,  had  rendered  it 
useless  for  the  better  classes  of  the  people  to  labor  for  their  own  sup- 
port, and  had  engendered  habits  of  aristocratic  luxury,  while  the 
climate  had  cast  over  all  ranks  that  fatal  spell  of  indolence  and  lack 
of  energy  which  has  always  been  the  bane  of  that  section.  In  the 
Northern  colonies  labor  was  a  necessity  with  all  classes.  They  had 
been  originally  poorer  in  wealth  than  their  Southern  neighbors,  and 
had  also  a  less  generous  climate,  and  a  soil  which  required  to  be 
worked  with  the  utmost  energy  and  fidelity.  Nature  did  but  little 
for  them,  and  they  were  forced  to  make  up  the  deficiency  by  their 
own  efforts,  a  necessity  which,  though  hard  at  first,  eventually  proved 
their  greatest  blessing.  They  were  thus  trained  in  habits  of  patient 
and  intelligent  industry,  which  they  have  left  to  their  children.  By 
the  period  of  which  we  are  writing  (1732)  they  had  made  their  bleak 
country  to  blossom  as  a  rose,  had  established  thriving  cities  and 


116  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

towns,  and,  besides  laying  the  sure  foundations  of  an  enormous  system 
of  manufactures  and  trade,  had  already  acquired  considerable  wealth. 
Learning  and  the  refining  arts  were  common  amongst  them.  Eng- 
land, it  is  true,  did  much  to  hamper  and  destroy  the  industry  of  all 
the  colonies,  hoping  by  this  short-sighted  policy  to  ensure  their  de- 
pendence upon  her,  but  American  energy  flourished  in  spite  of  the 
mother  country. 

Nor  were  the  material  interests  of  the  country  the  only  ones  con- 
sulted. One  of  the  very  first  cares  of  the  settlers  was  to  establish  a 
system  of  common  school  education.  This  system  was  simple  enough 
at  first,  but  it  steadily  improved,  as  the  colonies  continued  to  prosper. 
Schools  were  established  in  Virginia  in  1621,  in  the  Plymouth 
Colony  soon  after,  and  in  New  Amsterdam  shortly  after  its  settle- 
ment. In  1 637,  Harvard  College  was  founded  in  Massachusetts ;  in 
1692,  William  and  Mary  College  was  established  in  Virginia;  in 
1701,  Yale  College  was  founded  in  Connecticut;  in  1738,  the  College 
of  New  Jersey  was  established;  and  in  1754,  King's  (now  Columbia) 
College  was  founded  in  New  York.  With  the  exception  of  William 
and  Mary  College,  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  during  the  late  civil 
war,  all  of  these  institutions  are  in  operation  to-day. 

It  does  not  belong  to  this  portion  of  our  work  to  present  a  detailed 
statement  of  the  difficulties  which  lay  in  the  path  of  the  colonies  dur- 
ing the  first  century  after  the  settlement  of  the  country.  A  more 
minute  account  will  be  presented  in  the  historical  sketches  of  the 
States,  and  we  must  confine  ourselves  here  to  a  mere  general  outline 
of  the  progress  of  events. 

The  first  settlers  found  the  Indians  very  friendly,  and  for  some 
time  maintained  kindly  relations  with  them;  but  as  the  number  of 
the  whites  increased,  decided  encroachments  were  made  upon  the 
hunting  grounds  of  the  savages,  and  this,  with  various  other  causes 
of  quarrel,  brought  about  a  series  of  long  and  bloody  wars  with  the 
Indians,  which  continued  with  but  slight  intermission  from  the  death 
of  King  Powhatan,  the  great  Virginian  chief  and  the  friend  of  the 
whites,  in  1622,  until  the  red  men  were  driven  west  of  the  Mississippi, 
after  the  close  of  the  second  war  with  England.  They  were  expelled 
from  the  greater  number  of  the  Atlantic  States,  or  forced  to  submit  to 
the  authority  of  the  whites,  by  the  close  of  the  Revolution.  Their 
power  was  broken  in  Virginia  by  the  death  of  Opecancanough,  in 
1644;  in  New  England  by  the  death  of  King  Philip,  in  1676;  and 
in  the  Carolinas  by  the  destruction  of  the  Yemassees,  in  1715.  West 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


in 


BURNING    OF    DEEKFIELD,    MASSACHUSETTS. 

of  the  mountains  and  along  the  northern  frontier  they  were  trouble- 
some for  many  years  later. 

The  French,  as  we  have  said,  had  been  as  energetic  as  the  English 
in  colonizing  America.  They  had  made  Canada  a  thriving  province, 
had  settled  Acadie,  and  had  established  a  line  of  posts  between  Mon- 
treal and  New  Orleans.  There  were  sixty  of  these  posts  in  all,  some 
of  which,  as  Fort  Duquesne  (Pittsburg),  Detroit,  Kaskaskia,  Vin- 
cennes,  and  New  Orleans,  have  since  become  important  cities.  They 
were  located  with  an  almost  intuitive  perception  of  their  importance 
in  securing  the  command  of  the  country,  and,  as  they  completely 
hemmed  in  the  settlements  of  the  English,  were  not  slow  in  exciting 
the  alarm  and  jealousy  of  Great  Britain,  who  claimed  the  entire 


118  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

country  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific.  Nor  was  the  jealousy  en- 
tirely upon  the  part  of  the  English.  The  French,  believing  that 
they  had  securely  established  themselves  in  Canada  and  the  north- 
west, were  very  anxious  to  dislodge  their  powerful  neighbors  from 
their  growing  possessions,  and  towards  the  close  of  the  seventeenth 
century  began  to  incite  the  Indians  to  commit  depredations  upon  the 
English  colonies,  supplying  them  with  arms  and  ammunition,  and 
sometimes  joining  with  them  in  such  expeditions.  New  England 
and  New  York  suffered  severely  from  them,  and  several  towns 
(Dover,  N.  H.,  Schenectady,  N.  Y.,  and  Deerfield  and  Haverhill, 
Mass.,)  were  destroyed  by  bands  of  Indians,  or  French  and  Indians, 
and  their  inhabitants  massacred  or  carried  into  captivity.  Open  hos- 
tilities between  the  French  and  English  in  America  broke  out  in 
1690.  This  war  was  really  caused  by  the  English  Revolution  of 
1688,  and  is  known  in  American  kistory  as  King  William's  War. 
It  lasted  seven  years,  and  was  terminated  by  the  Treaty  of  Kyswick, 
September  20th,  1697.  During  its  continuance  the  English  colonies 
suffered  greatly  from  the  incursions  of  the  French  and  Indians,  and, 
in  retaliation,  made  several  attempts  to  conquer  Canada,  but  were 
unsuccessful. 

Five  years  after  the  Peace  of  Ryswick,  the  War  of  the  Spanish 
Succession,  or,  as  it  is  known  in  America,  Queen  Anne's  War,  began 
in  Europe  (in  1702).  It  soon  spread  to  America,  and  embroiled  the 
English  and  French  in  this  country.  The  English  settlements  on  the 
western  frontier  of  New  England  were  almost  annihilated  by  the 
Indians,  while  the  French  were  unusually  active.  Massachusetts, 
New  Hampshire,  and  Rhode  Island  made  a  combined  attempt  in 
1707  to  conquer  Acadie,  but  without  success.  In  1710,  an  expedition 
from  Boston  drove  the  French  out  of  Acadie,  and  annexed  the 
province  to  the  British  Crown,  with  the  name  of  Nova  Scotia,  which 
it  still  bears.  In  1711,  two  vigorous  efforts  were  made  to  conquer 
Canada,  but  both  proved  unsuccessful.  On  the  llth  of  April,  1713, 
the  Peace  of  Utrecht  closed  the  war,  "  and  the  land  had  rest  for  thirty 
years." 

King  George's  War,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  European  history,  the 
War  of  the  Austrian  Succession,  began  in  Europe  in  March,  1744, 
and  soon  extended  to  America.  It  lasted  a  little  over  four  years,  and 
was  brought  to  a  close  by  the  Treaty  of  Aix  la  Chapelle,  Octobel 
18th,  1748.  The  principal  event  of  this  war  was  the  capture  of 
Louisburg,  the  strongest  position  of  the  French  in  America,  by  a  vol- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  119 

unteer  force  from  New  England,  led  by  William  Pepperell,  a  wealthy 
merchant  of  Maine.  This  event  did  much  to  encourage  the  martial 
spirit  of  the  colonists,  and  was  hailed  with  delight  in  the  mother 
country.  At  the  conclusion  of  peace,  however,  Louisburg  was  re- 
stored to  the  French. 

In  1749,  the  Governor  of  Virginia  received  orders  from  England 
to  grant  to  the  "Ohio  Company"  half  a  million  acres  of  land  lying 
on  the  Ohio  River,  and  between  the  Monongahela  and  the  Kanawha. 
This  region  was  claimed  by  France,  and  as  soon  as  the  English  com- 
pany began  to  form  settlements  in  it,  they  were  resisted  by  the  French 
commander  at  Fort  Duquesne,  to  whom  the  authorities  of  the  province 
of  Virginia  resolved  to  address  a  letter  of  remonstrance,  before  pre- 
paring  to  meet  force  with  force.     Their  message  was  entrusted   to 
George  Washington,  then  a  young  man  of  less  than  twenty-two  years 
of  age,  but  with  a  reputation  for  bravery,  prudence,  and  ability  far 
beyond  his  years.     He  performed  the  long  and  dangerous  journey 
between  the  Virginian  frontier  and  Fort  Duquesne,  delivered  the 
letter,  and  returned  with  the  reply  of  the  French  commandant,  who 
positively  refused  to  comply  with  the  demand  of  the  English.     Vir- 
ginia then  prepared  to  maintain  her  claim  by  force  of  arms,  and  an 
expedition,  in  which  Washington  was  assigned  the  second  place,  and 
of  which  he  finally  became  the  commander,  was  dispatched  towards 
the  Ohio,  to  occupy  the  country.     On  the  28th  of  May,  1754,  it  was 
attacked  and  cut  to  pieces  by  a  French  force  under  Jumonville,  who 
was  slain  in  the  fight.     This  affair  began  the  determined  struggle 
which  is  known  in  our  history  as  the  Old  French,  or  the  French  and 
Indian  War,  and  in  Europe  as  the  Seven  Years7  War.     Hostilities, 
however,  were  not   immediately  declared   in   Europe.     France  and 
England  did  not  come  to  blows  in  the  Old  World  until  about  the  year 
1756.     Each  country  professed  to  be  at  peace  with  the  other,  but 
both  were  busily  engaged  in  sending  aid  to  their  colonies.     The  prin- 
cipal events  of  the  campaign  of  1755  in  America  were  as  follows: 
I.    The   unfortunate   expedition   of  General   Braddock   against   the 
French  at  Fort  Duquesne,  in  which  Washington  first  displayed  those 
great  qualities  which  won  for  him  the  leadership  of  our  armies  in  the 
struggle  for  liberty.     Braddock's  army  was  ambushed  by  the  Indian 
allies  of  the  French,  about  ten  miles  from  Fort  Duquesne,  and  cut  to 
pieces,  the  general  himself  being  mortally  wounded.     II.   The  expe- 
dition against  Niagara  and  Frontenac,  led  by  Governor  Shirley,  of 
Massachusetts.     This  attempt  proved  abortive.     Shirley  was  delayed 


120  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

by  storms  and  sickness  among  his  troops,  and  his  Indian  allies,  who 
belonged  to  the  tribes  of  the  Six  Nations,  deserted  him  to  such  an 
extent  that  their  aid  amounted  to  nothing.  Disheartened,  he  aban- 
doned his  attempt  and  retraced  his  steps  eastward.  III.  The  expe- 
dition against  the  French  posts  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  led  by  General 
Winslow,  of  New  England.  This  was  successful.  The  posts  were 
captured  and  held  by  the  English.  Subsequently  General  Winslow 
received  positive  orders  from  his  Government  to  remove  the  neutral 
French  from  Acadie  to  the  English  colonies,  which  duty  he  per- 
formed. There  was  no  actual  necessity  for  the  removal  of  these 
people,  and  this  harsh  and  cruel  measure  of  the  English  Government 
caused  great  suffering  to  them.  IV.  The  expedition  against  Crown 
Point,  led  by  Sir  William  Johnson.  Johnson's  troops  were  princi- 
pally from  Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  and  New  Hampshire.  He 
met  the  French,  under  Dieskau,  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  on  the 
6th  of  September,  1755,  and  was  at  first  repulsed  by  them,  but, 
thanks  to  General  Lyman,  the  second'in  command,  and  an  American, 
he  succeeded  in  rallying  his  army  and  utterly  routing  the  French, 
whose  commander  was  fatally  wounded  and  made  a  prisoner.  He 
lost  the  fruits  of  his  success,  however,  by  lingering  on  the  field  of  his 
victory  until  it  was  too  late  in  the  season  to  advance  upon  Crown 
Point. 

Dieskau  was  succeeded  by  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm,  to  whom  was 
assigned  the  command  of  all  the  French  forces  in  America.  He  was 
an  officer  of  experience,  energy,  and  skill,  and  opened  the  campaign 
of  1756  with  a  series  of  successes  which  continued  for  two  years,  and 
which  taught  the  English  that  he  was  no  insignificant  foe.  In  1756, 
he  captured  Oswego,  with  its  immense  military  stores,  which  had  been 
placed  there,  by  the  English.  In  1757,  he  compelled  Fort  William 
Henry,  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  to  surrender,  a  disaster  which 
was  made  the  more  appalling  by  the  massacre  of  a  part  of  the  garri- 
son, after  the  capitulation,  by  the  Indian  allies  of  the  French. 

Thus  far  fortune  had  smiled  upon  the  French,  but  their  enemies 
were  not  disheartened.  The  English  people  were  convinced  that  the 
disasters  which  had  befallen  their  arms  were  due  to  the  incompetency 
of  their  Government,  and  demanded  a  change  of  the  Ministry.  The 
popular  demand  was  unwillingly  complied  with,  and  William  Pitt 
was  placed  by  the  king  at  the  head  of  affairs.  From  the  moment 
that  his  great  mind  began  to  direct  the  war,  the  prospects  of  the 
English  improved.  Pitt  appreciated  the  efforts  the  Americans  had 
made  during  the  struggle,  and  called  on  them  to  volunteer  for  fresh 


THE    UNITED    STATES:  121 

service  under  able  generals  who  were  sent  out  from  England.  His 
calls  were  well  responded  to,  and  when  the  campaign  of  1758  opened, 
the  English  took  the  field  with  50,000  men,  commanded  bj  officers 
of  experience  and  skill.  The  principal  events  of  this  campaign  were: 
the  capture  of  Louisburg  by  Generals  Amherst  and  Wolfe,  after  a 
siege  of  fifty  days ;  the  capture  of  Fort  Frontenac,  on  Lake  Ontario, 
by  a  force  of  Colonial  troops,  under  Colonel  Bradstreet;  the  capture 
of  Fort  Duquesne,  in  which  the  forces  of  the  colony  of  Virginia  were 
commanded  by  Washington  ;  and  the  defeat  of  Abercrombie  at  Ticon- 
deroga.  The  British  in  this  engagement  attacked  Ticonderoga  with 
a  force  four  times  as  great  as  that  with  which  Montcalm  defended  the 
position.  Their  army  was  commanded  by  General  Abercrombie  and 
Lord  Howe,  the  latter  of  whom  was  an  officer  of  great  promise,  and 
warmly  loved  by  the  army.  Howe  was  killed  at  the  head  of  his 
column,  and  Abercrombie  proved  himself  so  incompetent  for  the  task 
before  him,  that  Montcalm  defeated  him,  and  compelled  him  to  re- 
treat with  the  loss  of  2000  men.  This  event  closed  the  campaign, 
and  more  than  counterbalanced  the  successes  of  the  English  at  the 
outset. 

The  English  authorities  at  once  removed  Abercrombie,  and  put 
Amherst  in  his  place,  who  opened  the  campaign  of  1759  by  advancing 
upon  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  from  which  the  French  retreated 
without  risking  an  engagement.  About  the  same  time  Sir  William 
Johnson  took  Niagara,  and  routed  a  large  French  force  which  was 
marching  to  its  relief.  On  the  13th  of  September,  1759,  the  great 
event  of  the  war  occurred.  Quebec  was  taken  by  the  British  army, 
under  General  Wolfe,  after  a  battle  on  the  heights  of  Abraham,  in 
which  both  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  were  killed.  The  capture  of  Quebec 
is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  remarkable  events  in  modern 
history,  not  only  because  it  decided  the  war  in  America,  but  because 
it  broke  the  power  of  France  and  confirmed  that  of  England  in  the 
New  World.  "It  gave  to  the  English  tongue  and  the  institutions 
of  the  Germanic  race,"  says  Bancroft,  "  the  unexplored  and  seemingly 
infinite  west  and  north."  The  war  in  America  virtually  ceased  after 
the  fall  of  Quebec,  but  continued  on  the  ocean  and  in  Europe  for 
nearly  four  years  longer.  Peace  was  restored  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris, 
in  1763,  by  which  Canada  and  its  dependencies,  including  the  posts 
along  the  lakes  and  the  Ohio,  were  forever  ceded  to  Great  Britain. 

This  very  treaty,  however,  was  the  cause  of  another  war.  The 
French,  by  their  friendly  and  conciliatory  policy,  had  generally  won 
the  friendship  of  the  Indians,  but  the  English,  by  their  arrogance  and 


122  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

harshness,  had  rarely  failed  to  excite  their  hostility,  and  the  transfer 
of  Canada  and  the  northwest  made  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris  was  bitterly 
resented  by  the  Indians  of  that  region.  One  of  their  chiefs,  Pontiac, 
a  leader  of  great  courage  and  ability,  persuaded  his  countrymen  to 
join  him  in  an  attempt  to  drive  out  the  English.  He  was  successful, 
and  the  first  blow  was  struck  in  June,  1763.  In  the  two  weeks 
which  followed  the  outbreak,  the  savages  captured  all  the  forts  west 
of  Oswego,  except  Niagara,  Detroit,  and  Pittsburg,  and  massacred 
the  garrisons.  No  English  settler  of  either  sex  or  any  age  who  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  savages  was  spared.  Siege  was  laid  to  Detroit, 
which  was  invested  for  six  weeks.  It  was  finally  relieved,  and  the 
Indians  were  in  their  turn  pressed  with  so  much  vigor  that  they  were 
compelled  to  sue  for  peace.  Pontiac,  however,  refused  to  yield  to  his 
conquerors,  and  set  off  towards  the  Mississippi,  inciting  the  western 
tribes  against  the  English,  until  he  was  murdered  in  1769. 

The  old  French  war  was  the  only  one  of  the  struggles  between 
France  and  England  in  which  the  Colonies  bore  a  part,  which  origi- 
nated in  America.  These  conflicts,  though  they  at  length  resulted  in 
removing  the  hostile  French  and  Indians  from  the  very  doors  of  the 
Colonies,  left  them  greatly  exhausted  in  both  men  and  money.  They 
had  shown  the  devotion  of  America  to  the  mother  country  in  a  most 
conspicuous  manner,  and  had  certainly  earned  for  the  colonists  at 
least  the  considerate  forbearance  of  the  Home  Government.  As  for 
the  Americans  themselves,  they  had  learned  valuable  lessons  in 
modern  warfare,  had  seen  for  themselves  that  British  generals  were 
not  infallible,  nor  British  troops  invincible,  and  had  gained  a  very 
decided  confidence  in  their  own  prowess  as  shown  by  their  achieve- 
ments. 

Great  Britain,  however,  did  not  regard  her  Colonies  with  either 
motherly  wisdom  or  kindness.  Jealous  of  their  growing  commercial 
and  manufacturing  wealth,  she  sought  in  numerous  ways  to  cripple 
their  industry.  Always  a  law-abiding  people,  the  Americans  bore 
all  the  harsh  measures  of  the  mother  country  in  silence,  so  long  as 
they  were  kept  within  the  limits  sanctioned  by  the  constitution  of  the 
realm.  In  1761,  however,  the  Home  Government  threw  off  its  con- 
stitutional restraints.  A  law  was  enacted  by  Parliament,  empowering 
sheriffs  and  customs  officers  to  enter  stores  and  private  dwellings, 
upon  the  authority  of  "  writs  of  assistance,"  or  general  search  war- 
rants, and  search  for  goods  which  it  was  suspected  had  not  paid 
duty. 

The  first  attempt  to  use  these  writs  was  made  in  Massachusetts, 


THE    UNITED    STATED 


tax.     An  Act  far  taw 


It 

la 

•  the  ii 

called  the 

March,  17S5,  by  a 

the  1st  of  April  by  the  Hraae  of  Lords  widi  acutely  a 

voice.    The  king  at  ouee  signed  the  bill     This  Act 

^          1  •         *  •  v 

to  it  a  Bti"*r  of  a  OjenominatiQn  to  be 
by  the  ilumirf  of  die  paper,  and  that  no  stamp  dboald  be  fir  a  leas 
~um  than  one  shilling.  The  Colooies  had  eazsestly  protested  against 
the  measure  while  h  was  being  diKKsed  in  Parliament,  but  the  ooly 

Colonies  to  find  "qoxrters,  foel,  cider  or  rum,  candid  and 


AjLCDiriF  lOuHOuDOCd  J^  9CRCS  Ot 

aodbrj  of  Ybginia,  whidi  were  adopted  br  that  bod  j, 
the  Colonists  were  boond  to  paj  only  soch  taxes  «  dwold  be  leviei 
br  their  ow»  legisbtmcs.    The 
iaed  the  coons  of  that  province  to  proceed  to 
the  use  of  stamps.     In 


were  formed  all  over  the  country,  ffiauniing  of  men  wh< 
themadTes  to  oppose  the  Stamp  Act  and  defend  the  rights  of  the 

was  general,  and  when  the  1st  of  November,  1765,  the  dar  on  which 
die  hated  law  was  to  go  into  operation,  arrived,  it  was  frond  that  all 


124  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  officials  appointed  to  distribute  the  stamps  had  resigned  their 
places.  The  bells  in  all  the  Colonies  were  tolled,  and  the  flags  lowered 
in  mourning  for  the  death  of  liberty  in  America.  The  merchants 
pledged  themselves  to  import  no  more  English  goods,  and  the  people 
agreed  to  use  no  more  articles  of  English  manufacture  until  the  law 
was  repealed. 

Previous  to  this,  in  June,  the  Legislature  of  Massachusetts  had  is- 
sued a  call  for  a  general  Congress  of  delegates  from  all  the  Colonies 
to  meet  in  New  York,  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  October,  to  consider 
the  state  of  affairs.  Nine  of  the  Colonies  were  represented  in  this 
body,  which  met  at  the  appointed  time.  The  Congress  drew  up  a 
declaration  of  rights  for  the  Colonies,  a  memorial  to  Parliament,  and 
a  petition  to  the  king,  in  which,  after  asserting  their  loyalty  to  the 
Crown  and  laws  of  England,  they  insisted  upon  their  right  to  be  taxed 
only  by  their  own  representatives.  These  documents  were  submitted 
to  and  approved  by  the  provincial  legislatures,  and  were  laid  before 
the  British  Government  in  the  name  of  the  United  Colonies. 

These  popular  demonstrations  brought  up  the  subject  in  Parlia- 
ment, and  the  friends  of  America  urgently  demanded  a  repeal  of  the 
Act.  Pitt  and  Burke  advocated  the  repeal  with  powerful  eloquence. 
The  Commons  examined  a  number  of  witnesses,  as  to  the  temper  and 
condition  of  the  Colonies.  One  of  these  was  Benjamin  Franklin, 
who  was  sojourning  in  London.  He  told  the  House  that  his  country- 
men were  not  possessed  of  a  sufficient  amount  of  gold  and  silver  to 
buy  the  stamps,  that  they  were  already  greatly  burdened  by  debts 
contracted  by  them  in  support  of  the  recent  war,  in  which  they  had 
borne  more  than  their  just  share  of  the  expenses,  that  they  were  loyal 
and  attached  to  the  mother  country,  but  that  the  harsh  acts  of  the 
Government  could  only  result  in  destroying  their  loyal '  friendship, 
that  unless  the  Acts  complained  of  were  repealed,  the  Colonies  would 
cease  to  trade  with  England,  and  that  they  would  never  consent  to 
pay  any  taxes  except  those  imposed  upon  them  by  their  own  legis- 
latures. Influenced  by  these  representations,  the  Parliament  resolved 
to  retrace  its  steps,  and  on  the  18th  of  March,  1766,  the  Stamp  Act 
was  repealed.  The  repeal  was  celebrated  with  great  rejoicings  in 
both  America  and  England,  the  latter  country  having  become  alarmed 
by  the  decrease  in  its  trade  with  the  Colonies. 

The  British  Government,  however,  did  not  relinquish  its  determi- 
nation to  tax  America,  and  on  the  29th  of  June,  1767,  the  king 
signed  an  Act  of  Parliament  imposing  duties  on  glass,  tea,  paper,  and 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  125 

some  other  articles  imported  into  the  Colonies.  The  Americans  met 
this  new  aggression  with  a  revival  of  their  societies  for  discontinuing 
the  importation  of  English  goods.  Massachusetts  led  this  opposition, 
and  in  Boston  the  custom  house  officers  were  mobbed  for  demanding 
duties  on  the  cargo  of  a  schooner  owned  by  John  Hancock.  The 
officers  sought  refuge  from  the  mob  in  the  fort  in  the  harbor,  and  in 
September,  1768,  the  Government  ordered  General  Gage  to  occupy 
"  the  insolent  town  of  Boston "  with  a  strong  military  force.  This 
measure  but  increased  the  disaffection  of  the  Bostonians,  and  on  the 
5th  of  March,  1770,  a  collision  occurred  between  the  citizens  and  the 
troops,  in  which  three  of  the  former  were  killed  and  five  wounded. 
This  "  massacre/'  as  it  was  called,  produced  great  excitement  in  all 
the  Colonies.  The  soldiers  who  had  fired  on  the  crowd  were  tried 
for  murder  in  Boston,  and  were  defended  by  John  Adams  and  Josiah 
Quincy,  who  were  resolved  that  they  should  have  impartial  justice 
dealt  out  to  them.  The  evidence  showing  that  the  troops  did  not  fire 
until  provoked  to  it  by  the  people,  the  jury  acquitted  all  the  pris- 
oners but  two,  who  were  convicted  of  manslaughter. 

The  feeling  of  the  Colonies  was  so  unmistakable  that  Parliament 
resolved  to  remove  the  obnoxious  duties.  The  king,  however,  ex- 
pressly ordered  that  at  least  one  nominal  duty  should  be  retained,  as 
he  did  not  mean  to  surrender  his  right  to  tax  the  Colonies.  In  ac- 
cordance with  this  command,  a  duty  of  three  per  cent,  on  tea  was  re- 
tained, and  all  the  others  removed.  The  Americans,  however,  objected 
to  the  principle  of  taxation  without  representation,  and  not  to  the 
amount  of  the  tax,  and  resolved  to  discontinue  the  use  of  tea  until  the 
duty  should  be  repealed.  Meetings  for  this  purpose  were  held  in  the 
principal  seaports  of  the  country.  When  it  was  ascertained  that 
several  ships  loaded  with  tea  were  on  their  way  to  Boston,  a  large 
meeting  of  citizens  was  called,  at  which  it  was  resolved  to  send  the 
vessels  back  to  England.  Three  ships  loaded  with  tea  reached  Bos- 
ton soon  after,  and  their  owners,  in  compliance  with  the  public  de- 
mand, consented  to  order  them  back  to  England,  if  the  Governor 
would  allow  them  to  leave  the  port.  Governor  Hutchinson,  how- 
ever, refused  to  allow  the  ships  to  go  to  sea,  and  on  the  night  of  the 
18th  of  December,  a  band  of  citizens,  disguised  as  Indians,  seized  the 
vessels,  emptied  the  tea  into  the  harbor,  and  then  quietly  dispersed 
without  harming  the  vessels.  This  bold  act  greatly  incensed  the 
British  Government  and  Parliament  adopted  severe  measures  for  the 
purpose  of  punishing  the  Colonies.  The  harbor  of  Boston  was  closed 


126  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

to  all  commerce,  and  the  Government  of  the  Colony  ordered  to  be 
removed  to  Salem,  soldiers  were  to  be  quartered  on  all  the  Colonies 
at  the  expense  of  the  citizens,  and  it  was  required  that  all  officers  who 
should  be  prosecuted  for  enforcing  these  measures  should  be  sent  to 
England  for  trial. 

The  excitement  in  the  Colonies  over  these  acts  was  tremendous. 
Boston  was  everywhere  regarded  as  the  victim  of  British  tyranny, 
and  was  in  constant  receipt  of  assurances  of  sympathy,  and  of  money 
and  provisions  for  the  poor  of  the  town,  sent  to  her  from  all  parts  of 
the  country.  Salem  refused  to  accept  the  transfer  of  the  seat  of  Gov- 
ernment, and  the  authorities  of  Marblehead  requested  the  merchants 
of  Boston  to  use  their  port  free  of  charge.  Even  in  London  <£30,000 
were  subscribed  for  the  relief  of  Boston.  The  excitement  continued 
to  increase  throughout  the  country,  and  the  breach  between  the  Colo- 
nies and  the  mother  country  grew  wider  every  day. 

On  the  5th  of  September,  1774,  a  Congress  of  55  delegates,  repre- 
senting all  the  Colonies  except  Georgia,  whose  royalist  governor 
prevented  an  election,  met  in  Philadelphia.  It  was  composed  of  the 
ablest  men  in  America,  among  whom  were  Washington,  Patrick 
Henry,  Richard  Henry  Lee,  Edward  Rutledge,  John  Rutledge, 
Christopher  Gadsden,  Samuel  Adams,  John  Adams,  Roger  Sherman, 
Philip  Livingston,  William  Livingston,  John  Jay,  Dr.  Witherspoon, 
Peyton  Randolph,  and  Charles  Thomson.  This  body,  after  consider- 
ing the  grievances  of  the  Colonies,  adopted  a  declaration  setting  forth 
their  rights  as  subjects  of  the  British  crown  to  a  just  share  in  the 
making  of  their  own  laws,  and  in  imposing  their  own  taxes,  to  the 
right  of  a  speedy  trial  by  jury  in  the  community  in  which  the  offence 
should  be  committed,  and  to  the  right  to  hold  public  meetings  and 
petition  for  redress  of  grievances.  A  protest  against  the  unconstitu- 
tional Acts  of  the  British  Parliament  was  adoped,  as  well  as  a  petition 
to  the  king,  an  appeal  to  the  British  people,  and  a  memorial  to  the 
people  of  the  Colonies.  The  Congress  proposed,  as  a  means  of  re- 
dress, the  formation  of  an  "American  Association,"  whose  members 
should  pledge  themselves  not  to  trade  with  Great  Britain  or  the  West 
Indies,  or  with  any  persons  engaged  in  the  slave  trade,  and  to  refrain 
•from  using  British  goods  or  tea.  The  papers  drawn  up  by  the 
Congress  were  transmitted  to  England.  The  Earl  of  Chatham  (Wil- 
liam Pitt)  was  deeply  impressed  by  them,  and  declared  in  Parliament 
that  "all  attempts  to  impose  servitude  upon  such  a  mighty  continental 
nation  must  be  vain."  The  English  people,  as  a  general  rule,  were 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  127 

sincerely  anxious  that  the  demands  of  the  Americans  should  be  com- 
plied with,  and  even  Lord  North,  the  Prime  Minister,  who  carried 
the  measures  in  question  through  Parliament,  was  in  his  heart  op- 
posed to  them,  and  only  continued  in  office  to  uphold  them  at  the 
express  command  of  the  king,  who  was  obstinately  determined  upon 
whipping  his  American  subjects  into  submission. 

Few  of  the  leaders  of  the  Colonists  now  doubted  that  hostilities 
would  soon  begin,  and  with  a  view  to  prepare  for  the  emergency,  the 
Colonies  began  to  take  steps  for  raising  and  arming  troops  at  a 
minute's  warning.  These  preparations  were  especially  vigorous  in 
Massachusetts,  and  alarmed  General  Gage,  who  fortified  Boston  neck, 
and  commenced  to  seize  all  the  arms  and  munitions  of  war  he  could 
find  in  the  province.  The  Colonial  authorities  of  Massachusetts  had 
established  small  stores  of  arms  and  ammunition  at  Worcester  and 
Concord,  and  General  Gage  resolved  to  secure  them.  On  the  night 
of  the  18th  of  April,  1775,  he  sent  a  large  detachment  of  troops  to 
destroy  the  stores  at  Concord.  It  was  his  design  that  the  movement 
should  be  secret,  but  he  was  so  closely  watched  by  the  patriots  that 
the  march  of  his  troops  was  instantly  discovered,  and  the  alarm 
spread  through  the  country  by  messengers.  The  people  at  once  flew 
to  arms,  and  when  the  troops  reached  Lexington,  a  village  half  way 
between  Boston  and  Concord,  on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  Major  Pit- 
cairn,  their  commander,  found  his  progress  opposed  by  a  considerable 
number  of  the  country  people.  He  ordered  his  rnen  to  fire  upon 
them.  The  order  was  obeyed,  and  the  citizens  were  driven  off  with 
a  loss  of  eight  killed  and  several  wounded.  The  troops  then  pro- 
ceeded to  Concord,  where  they  destroyed  some  stores,  but  upon  reach- 
ing the  north  bridge  over  Concord  River,  they  met  with  a  de- 
termined resistance  from  the  people,  who  had  now  assembled  in  con- 
siderable force,  and  were  obliged  to  retreat  to  Boston.  The  Colonists 
followed  them  closely  on  their  retreat,  pouring  in  a  galling  fire  from 
every  convenient  point.  The  total  loss  of  the  British  on  this  occasion 
was  273  men  killed  and  wounded. 

This  battle,  if  a  battle  it  can  be  called,  put  an  end  to  the  long  dis- 
pute between  America  and  Great  Britain,  and  inaugurated  the  Revo- 
lution. Previous  to  this,  no  one  ever  heard,  as  Jefferson  remarks, 
"  a  whisper  of  a  disposition  to  separate  from  Great  Britain/7  but  after 
the  first  surprise  of  the  shock  had  worn  off,  the  people  of  the  Colonies 
commenced  to  take  up  arms  for  freedom.  On  the  22d  of  April,  the 
authorities  of  Massachusetts  ordered  that  a  New  England  army  of 


123 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


RUINS     OF     TICONDEROGA. 

30,000  men  should  be  put  in  the  field,  and  that  Massachusetts  should 
furnish  13;000  of  these.  Troops  were  raised  with  rapidity  under  this 
authority,  and  by  the  1st  of  May,  an  army  of  20,000  men  was  en- 
camped before  Boston. 

In  the  other  Colonies  equally  important  measures  were  set  on  foot. 
The  fortresses  of  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point  were  seized  by  vol- 
unteers from  Connecticut  and  Vermont,  led  by  Benedict  Arnold  and 
Ethan  Allen.  The  cannon  and  stores  taken  with  them  were  of  in- 
calculable service  to  the  Americans,  who  were  sadly  in  need  of  mili- 
tary supplies. 

In  Virginia,  South  Carolina,  and  Georgia,  the  people  took  up 
arms  as  soon  as  the  news  from  the  North  was  received,  and  in  North 
Carolina  a  convention  was  held  at  Charlotte,  in  Mecklenburg  county, 
which  body,  in  May,  1775,  proclaimed  the  independence  of  the 
people  of  North  Carolina,  and  prepared  to  resist  the  authority  of  Great 
Britain  by  force  of  arms. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  129 

On  the  10th  of  May,  1775,  the  second  Colonial  Congress  met  at 
Philadelphia.  It  was  composed  of  the  most  eminent  men  of  the 
country,  among  whom  were  Washington,  Franklin,  Hancock,  John 
Adams,  Samuel  Adams,  Richard  Henry  Lee,  Patrick  Henry,  Jay, 
George  Clinton,  Jefferson,  and  others.  The  proceedings  of  this  body 
were  eminently  moderate.  The  first  step  taken  was  to  elect  John 
Hancock  President  of  the  Congress.  A  petition  to  the  king  was 
drawn  up,  and  forwarded  to  him,  denying  any  intention  to  separate 
from  Great  Britain,  and  asking  only  for  redress  of  the  wrongs  of 
which  the  Colonies  complained.  A  federal  Union  of  the  Colonies 
was  formed,  and  the  Congress  assumed  and  exercised  the  general  gov- 
ernment of  the  country.  Measures  were  taken  to  establish  an  army, 
to  procure  military  supplies,  and  to  fit  out  a  navy.  A  loan  of 
$2,000,000  was  authorized,  and  the  faith  of  the  "United  Colonies" 
pledged  for  its  payment.  The  troops  before  Boston  were  organized 
as  a  Continental  army,  and  placed  under  the  control  of  the  Congress, 
and  Washington  was  elected  Commander-in-Chief.  As  soon  as  he 
received  his  commission,  he  set  out  for  Boston,  but  did  not  arrive 
there  until  after  the  occurrence  of  the  events  now  to  be  related. 

Alarmed  by  the  presence  of  the  American  forces  before  Boston,  the 
British  commander  in  that  town  formed  the  plan  of  seizing  and  forti- 
fying Bunker  Hill  in  Charlestown.  His  plan  was  betrayed  to  the 
Americans,  who  at  once  sent  a  force  under  Colonel  William  Prescott 
to  fortify  the  hill.  Prescott  misunderstood  his  instructions,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  fortify  Breed's  Hill,  which,  though  inferior  in  height  to 
Bunker  Hill,  was  nearer  to  Boston,  and  more  perfectly  commanded 
the  harbor.  He  threw  up  a  slight  breastwork  during  the  night  of 
the  16th  of  June,  which  was  discovered  by  the  British  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  17th.  A  force  of  3000  regulars  was  detailed  to  carry  the 
hill,  assisted  by  the  fire  of  the  royal  ships  in  the  harbor.  The  Ameri- 
can force  was  scarcely  more  than  half  this  number,  and  consisted  of 
raw  and  undisciplined  provincials.  They  repulsed  two  assaults, 
however,  inflicting  upon  their  enemies  a  loss  of  1045  men  killed  and 
wounded ;  but  were  at  length,  after  their  ammunition  had  given  out, 
driven  from  the  hill.  They  retreated  across  Charlestown  neck  to 
Cambridge,  which  was  held  by  the  Continental  army,  having  lost  449 
men  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners.  Among  the  killed  was  General 
Joseph  Warren,  of  Boston,  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  American 
leaders.  This  battle,  though  an  actual  defeat  for  the  Americans,  was 
Regarded  by  them  as  a  victory,  inasmuch  as  it  demonstrated  their 
9 


130  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ability  to  bold  their  ground  against  the  regular  troops  of  Great 
Britain,  and  inspired  them  with  a  confidence  which  attended  them 
during  the  entire  war. 

Washington  reached  the  army  before  Boston  several  days  after  the 
battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  and  immediately  took  command.  He  was  re- 
ceived with  enthusiasm  by  the  troops  and  people.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  General  Charles  Lee,  an  officer  who  had  seen  service  before. 
Congress  had  appointed  a  full  complement  of  general  officers  for  the 
army,  all  of  whom  were  with  their  commands.  The  Major-Generals 
were  :  Charles  Lee,  of  Virginia,  Philip  Schuyler,  of  New  York,  Arte- 
mas  Ward,  of  Massachusetts,  and  Israel  Putnam,  of  'Connecticut-. 
The  Brigadiers  were:  Horatio  Gates,  Seth  Pomeroy,  Richard  Mont- 
gomery, David  Wooster,  William  Heath,  Joseph  Spencer,  John 
Thomas,  John  Sullivan,  and  Nathanael  Greene.  Of  all  these,  Gates 
was  the  only  man  who  possessed  sufficient  experience  to  be  of  much 
assistance  to  Washington  in  the  task  of  perfecting  the  organization  of 
the  army,  which  was  in  reality  little  better  than  a  mere  rabble  in  dis- 
cipline, clothing,  and  equipment.  By  extraordinary  exertions,  Wash- 
ington and  Gates  at  length  succeeded  in  bringing  the  force  to  a 
tolerably  effective  condition.  Boston. was  at  once  regularly  besieged, 
and  closely  invested  until  March  17th,  1776,  when,  Washington 
having  secured  a  position  from  which  his  cannon  could  render  the 
city  untenable,  the  British  forces  evacuated  the  place,  and  sailed  for 
Halifax.  They  were  accompanied  by  a  large  body  of  loyalists,  who 
feared  to  remain  in  the  town  after  its  occupation  by  the  Americans. 

Meanwhile,  during  the  progress  of  the  siege  of  Boston,  other  opera- 
tions had  been  going  on  else  where.  General  Montgomery  had  been 
sent  into  Canada  with  a  small,  weak  force,  to  conquer  that  province, 
which  was  believed  to  be  disaffected  towards  England.  His  second 
in  command  was  Benedict  Arnold,  who  rendered  brilliant  service 
during  the  campaign.  The  principal  event  of  the  invasion  was  a  joint 
attack  upon  Quebec  by  Montgomery  and  Arnold,  which  was  unsuc- 
cessful, and  in  which  Montgomery  was  killed  and  Arnold  wounded. 
The  expedition  accomplished  nothing  of  importance,  and  was  com- 
pelled to  return  to  the  Colonies,  after  suffering  great  losses  and  con- 
siderable hardships. 

A  British  fleet  attacked  and  burned  Falmouth  (now  Portland, 
Maine)  on  the  New  England  coast,  and  committed  many  outrages  on 
the  coast  of  Virginia.  A  powerful  force,  under  Sir  Peter  Parker, 
attacked  Fort  Sullivan,  in  the  harbor  of  Charleston,  South  Carolina, 


THE    UNITED    STATES. 


131 


INDEPENDENCE    HALL    IN  1776. 

and  was  repulsed  with  heavy  loss.  The  Americans  managed 
during  the  year  to  fit  out  several  cruisers,  which  were  fortunate 
enough  to  capture  a  number  of  prizes  loaded  with  military  stores 
for  the  British  army,  and  which  proved  of  infinite  service  to  the 
Americans. 

Indeed,  these  captures  seemed  providential,  for  often  when  the 
stock  of  arms  and  munitions  was  running  low,  a  cruiser  would 
make  its  way  into  port  with  a  prize  laden  with  the  supplies  most 
needed,  which  it  had  taken  from  the  enemy. 

Congress  took  measures  for  the  active  prosecution  of  the  war. 
Supplies  were  drawn  from  the  West  Indies,  and  a  regular  system  for 
that  purpose  inaugurated;  powder  mills  and  cannon  founderies  were 
provided  for;  thirteen  frigates  were  ordered  to  be  built  (a  few  of 
which  eventually  got  to  sea) ;  a  committee  of  war,  one  of  finance,  and 
a  secret  committee,  to  which  was  entrusted  the  negotiations  of  the 
Colonies  with  the  individuals  and  authorities  of  foreign  States,  were 
appointed ;  and  an  energetic.,  if  defective,  system  of  government  for 


182  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  "  United  Colonies  "  was  fairly  established.  Finally,  on  the  4th 
of  July,  1776,  Congress  adopted  a  declaration  on  behalf  of  the  Colo- 
nies, declaring  their  independence  of  the  English  crown,  and  pro- 
claiming that  henceforth  the  Colonies  were  free  arid  independent 
States.  This  declaration  changed  the  entire  nature  of  the  struggle. 
"The  war,"  says  Bancroft,  "was  no  longer  a  civil  war;  Britain  was 
become  to  the  United  States  a  foreign  country.  Every  former  subject 
of  the  British  king  in  the  thirteen  Colonies  now  owed  primary  allegi- 
ance to  the  dynasty  of  the  people,  and  became  citizens  of  the  new 
republic;  except  in  this,  everything  remained  as  before;  every  man 
retained  his  rights ;  the  Colonies  did  not  dissolve  into  a  state  of  na- 
ture, nor  did  the  new  people  undertake  a  social  revolution.  The 
affairs  of  internal  police  and  government  were  carefully  retained  by 
each  separate  State,  which  could,  each  for  itself,  enter  upon  the  career 
of  domestic  reforms.  But  the  States  which  were  henceforth  indepen- 
dent of  Britain,  were  not  independent  of  one  another;  the  United 
States  of  America  assumed  powers  over  war,  peace,  foreign  alliances, 
and  commerce." 

As  he  supposed  that  New  York  would  be  the  next  object  of  attack 
by  the  British,  Washington  transferred  his  army  to  that  place  imme- 
diately after  his  occupation  of  Boston.  He  had  not  long  to  wait,  for 
in  June,  Admiral  Lord  Howe  entered  New  York  bay  with  a  formi- 
dable fleet  and  30,000  troops,  consisting  principally  of  German  mer- 
cenaries hired  by  the  King  of  England.  The  troops  were  landed  on 
Staten  Island,  and  preparations  made  for  attacking  the  city  of  New 
York.  Lord  Howe  issued  a  proclamation  to  the  people  of  America, 
offering  a  free  pardon  to  all  who  would  lay  down  their  arms  and  ac- 
cept the  king's  clemency ;  but  the  proclamation  produced  no  effect 
whatever  upon  the  patriots,  who  were  convinced  that  they  could  ex- 
pect but  a  poor  regard  for  their  rights  and  liberties  at  the  hands  of 
King  George. 

Washington's  force  was  vastly  inferior  to  that  i,c  too  enemy  in 
every  respect.  He  was  compelled  to  divide  it,  and  to  place  a  portion 
of  it  on  Long  Island,  in  order  to  cover  the  approaches  to  the  city  of 
New  York.  The  force  on  Long  Island  was  attacked  and  defeated  by 
the  British  on  the  27th  of  August,  1776,  and  compelled  to  abandon 
the  island.  The  enemy  followed  up  their  successes,  and  finally 
obliged  Washington  to  give  up  Manhattan  Island  and  the  lower 
Hudson.  Disasters  now  fell  thickly  upon  the  Americans,  and  by  the 
close  of  the  year  Washington  had  been  driven  across  the  Delaware, 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  133 

and  had  with  him  less  than  4000  half-starved  and  miserably  equipped 
troops.  The  British  had  by  this  time  taken  possession  of  the  island 
of  Rhode  Island,  and  had  made  a  descent  upon  Baskingriclgc,  New 
Jersey,  and  had  captured  General  Charles  Lee.  By  December,  1776, 
the  cause  of  the  Colonies  seemed  so  desperate  that  the  people  generally 
began  to  abandon  the  hope  of  liberty  and  apply  themselves  to  the  task 
of  making  their  peace,  individually,  with  the  royal  authorities.  In- 
fluenced by  this  state  of  affairs,  Sir  William  Howe,  the  British 
Commander-in-Chief,  refrained  from  making  a  vigorous  effort  to  fol- 
low up  his  antagonist  and  crush  him. 

At  this  hour,  when  everything  was  so  gloomy,  Washington  was 
calm  and  hopeful.  He  had  expected  reverses,  and  they  did  not  dis- 
may him.  He  did  what  lay  in  his  power  to  cheer  and  encourage  the 
little  band  of  heroes  who  remained  faithful  to  him,  and  watched  the 
enemy  with  sleepless  vigilance,  and  at  length  discovered  an  opportu- 
nity for  striking  a  powerful  blow  in  behalf  of  his  country.  Perceiving 
that  the  advanced  wing  of  the  English  army  occupied  an  exposed 
position  at  Trenton,  New  Jersey,  he  crossed  the  Delaware  with  his 
army,  in  open  boats,  in  the  midst  of  snow  and  ice,  on  the  night  of  the 
25th  of  December,  and  foiling  suddenly  upon  the  enemy  at  daybreak 
the  next  morning,  completely  routed  them,  capturing  1000  prisoners, 
1000  stand  of  arms,  6  brass  field  pieces,  and  4  standards.  On  the 
night  of  the  20th,  he  recrossed  the  Delaware,  and  returned  to  his 
camp  in  Pennsylvania.  On  the  3d  of  January,  1777,  he  again  de- 
feated a  strong  British  detachment  at  Princeton,  New  Jersey,  and  in 
a  short  while  had  cleared  that  State  almost  entirely  of  the  enemy. 

These  victories,  so  brilliant  and  so  audacious,  completely  startled 
the  British,  who  had  believed  the  war  virtually  over  in  the  North, 
and  aroused,  as  if  by  magic,  the  drooping  spirits  of  the  Americans. 
Congress,  which  had  remained  unmoved  by  the  disasters  of  1776,  now 
inaugurated  a  series  of  more  vigorous  measures  than  had  yet  been  de- 
termined upon.  Washington  was  invested  with  almost  dictatorial 
powers;  troops  were  ordered  to  be  enlisted  for  three  years,  instead  of 
one  year,  which  was  the  term  of  the  first  levies;  a  central  government 
was  established,  and  a  constitution,  known  as  the  "Articles  of  Con- 
federation," was  adopted  by  the  States  (Maryland  did  not  ratify  these 
articles  until  the  next  year);  and  agents  were  sent  to  foreign 
countries  to  procure  the  recognition  of  the  independence  of  the  United 
States. 

When  the  campaign  of  1777  opened,  the  prospects  of  the  country 


134  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

had  so  far  improved  that  Washington  found  himself  at  the  head  of 
an  army  of  7000  men.  Sir  William  Howe  made  repeated  efforts  to 
bring  on  a  general  engagement,  but  Washington  skilfully  avoided  it, 
and  the  British  General  finally  withdrew  his  army  from  New  Jersey, 
and  occupied  Staten  Island.  Soon  after  this,  he  sailed  with  16,000 
men  for  the  Chesapeake,  and,  landing  at  Elk  River,  in  Maryland, 
advanced  through  Delaware  towards  Philadelphia,  which  was  the 
seat  of  the  Federal  Government.  Washington  endeavored  to  check 
the  progress  of  the  enemy  on  the  Brandy  wine,  September  llth,  but 
was  defeated  with  a  loss  of  1000  men.  The  British  occupied  Phila- 
delphia a  few  days  later,  and  Congress  withdrew  to  Lancaster,  and 
then  to  York,  Pennsylvania.  On  the  4th  of  October,  Washington 
made  a  vigorous  attack  upon  the  British  force  at  Germantown,  7 
aiiles  from  Philadelphia,  but  was  repulsed  with  severe  loss.  This 
event  closed  the  campaign  in  the  Middle  States. 

In  the  North,  the  American  forces  had  been  more  successful. 
General  Burgoyne,  with  7000  regular  troops  and  a  considerable  force 
of  Canadians  and  Indians,  entered  the  United  States  from  Canada 
during  the  summer  of  1777,  and  advanced  as  far  as  Fort  Edward,  on 
the  upper  Hudson.  From  this  point  a  strong  detachment  was  sent 
to  Bennington,  in  Vermont,  to  destroy  the  stores  collected  there  by 
the  Americans.  This  force  was  routed  with  a  loss  of  800  men,  by 
the  militia  of  New  Hampshire  and  Vermont,  under  General  Stark. 
The  battle  occurred  at  Bennington,  on  the  16th  of  August,  1777. 
Burgoyne  then  advanced  towards  Saratoga,  New  York,  making  his 
way  through  the  woods  until  he  reached  the  vicinity  of  that  place, 
when  he  was  met  by  the  American  army,  under  General  Gates,  to 
whom  the  command  of  the  Northern  department  had  been  recently 
assigned.  An  indecisive  battle  was  fought  between  the  two  armies 
on  the  19th  of  September,  and  a  second  and  more  decisive  engage- 
ment occurred  on  the  7th  of  October,  on  nearly  the  same  ground. 
Burgoyne  was  considerably  worsted,  and  endeavored  to  return  to 
Canada,  but  finding  his  retreat  cut  off,  surrendered  his  entire  army  to 
the  American  forces,  upon  favorable  terms,  on  the  17th  of  October. 

This  victory,  the  most  important  of  the  war,  greatly  elated  the 
Americans  and  their  friends  in  Europe,  while  it  depressed  the  Tories 
or  loyalists  in  America  to  an  equal  degree.  It  advanced  the  bills  of 
the  Continental  Congress,  and  had  the  effect  of  inducing  the  French 
Government,  which  had  secretly  encouraged  and  aided  the  Colonies 
from  the  first,  to  recognize  the  independence  of  the  States,  and  in 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  135 

February,  1778,  a  treaty  of  friendship,  commerce,  and  alliance  was 
signed  at  Paris,  by  the  French  King  and  the  American  Commission- 
ers, Great  Britain  seemed  to  realize  now,  for  the  first  time,  that  she 
was  about  to  lose  her  Colonies,  and  endeavored  to  repair  her  mistakes. 
On  the  llth  of  March,  1778,  Parliament  repealed  the  Acts  which  had 
proved  so  obnoxious  to  the  Colonies,  and  subsequently  sent  three 
commissioners  to  negotiate  a  reconciliation  with  the  Americans.  As 
these  commissioners  had  no  authority  to  consent  to  the  independence 
of  the  States,  Congress  refused  to  treat  with  them  until  the  king 
should  withdraw  his  forces  from  the  country,  and  rejected  the  terms 
offered  by  the  British  Government. 

Washington's  army  went  into  winter  quarters  at  the  Valley  Forgo, 
20  miles  from  Philadelphia,  about  the  middle  of  December,  1777. 
The  troops  suffered  terribly  from  exposure,  hunger,  and  the  dreadful 
privations  to  which  they  were  subjected,  but  remained  with  their 
colors  through  it  all.  Their  devotion  was  rewarded  in  the  spring  by 
the  news  of  the  alliance  with  France,  which  reached  them  in  May, 
1778,  and  was  greeted  with  demonstrations  of  the  liveliest  joy. 

The  first  result  of  the  French  alliance  was  the  arrival  in  the  Dela- 
ware of  a  fleet,  under  Count  D'Estaing.  D'Estaing  had  been  ordered 
to  blockade  the  British  fleet  in  the  Delaware,  and  arrived  off  the 
Capes  in  June,  but  before  his  arrival  the  enemy's  ships  had  taken 
refuge  in  Raritau  Bay.  The  British  army  in  Philadelphia  was  now 
commanded  by  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  who  had  succeeded  General  Howe. 
On  the  18th  of  June,  Clinton  withdrew  his  force  from  that  city,  and 
began  his  retreat  through  New  Jersey  to  New  York.  Washington 
pursued  him  promptly,  and  came  up  with  him,  on  the  28th  of  June, 
on  the  plains  of  Monmouth,  near  the  town  of  Freehold,  N.  J.,  where 
a  severe  engagement  took  place.  Although  the  result  was  indecisive, 
Clinton  resumed  his  retreat  to  New  York,  and  remained  there  for  the 
rest  of  the  summer,  without  making  any  effort  to  resume  hostilities. 

In  August,  an  attempt  was  made  by  the  Americans,  assisted  by  the 
French  fleet,  to  drive  the  British  from  Rhode  Island,  but  without 
success.  D'Estaing  withdrew  from  the  coast  soon  after  this,  and  re- 
turned to  the  West  Indies,  having  rendered  little  practical  aid  during 
his  presence  in  American  waters. 

The  finances  of  the  country  were  now  in  the  greatest  confusion,  and 
nothing  but  the  wisdom  and  unshrinking  patriotism  of  Robert  Morris 
saved  the  infant  republic  from  utter  bankruptcy  and  ruin.  It  is 
worthy  of  remark  that  a  grateful  country  suffered  this  man  to  die  in 


136  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

a  debtor's  prison.  On  the  whole,  however,  the  cause  of  the  States 
was  much  improved.  Besides  the  alliance  with  Franco,  they  had  the 
secret  encouragement  and  assistance  of  Spain.  They  had  confined  the 
British  to  the  territory  held  hy  that  army  in  1776,  and  had  a  larger 
and  better  disciplined  army  than  they  had  yet  possessed. 

In  17J9,  the  principal  military  operations  were  transferred  to  the 
South.  Savannah  had  been  already  captured  on  the  29th  of  Decem- 
ber, 1778,  by  an  expedition  sent  from  New  York  by  Sir  Henry 
Clinton,  and  by  the  summer  of  1779,  the  whole  State  of  Georgia  was 
in  the  hands  of  the  British.  In  September,  1779,  the  French  fleet 
and  a  land  force  of  Americans  under  General  Lincoln  attempted  to 
recover  Savannah,  but  were  repulsed  with  a  loss  of  1000  men. 

On  the  16th  of  June,  1779,  Spain  declared  war  against  England, 
and,  in  the  summer  of  that  year,  the  French  King,  influenced  by  the 
appeals  of  Lafayette,  who  had  visited  France. for  that  purpose,  agreed 
to  send  another  fleet  and  a  strong  body  of  troops  to  the  assistance  of 
the  Americans.  The  cruisers  of  the  United  States  were  doing  con- 
siderable damage  to  the  British  commerce  at  sea  and  in  British 
waters,  and  Paul  Jones,  on  the  23d  of  September,  fought  and  won 
one  of  the  most  desperate  battles  known  to  naval  warfare,  in  plain 
sight  of  the  English  coast. 

Sir  Henry  Clinton,  in  obedience  to  instructions  received  from 
England,  now  withdrew  Ris  forces  from  Rhode  Island,  and  concen- 
trated his  entire  command  at  New  York.  Early  in  1780,  he  pro- 
ceeded with  the  main  body  of  his  troops  to  the  South,  leaving  General 
Knyphausen  in  command  at  New  York,  and  at  once  laid  siege  to 
Charleston,  South  Carolina,  which  was  held  by  General  Lincoln  with 
a  force  of  2500  men.  The  city  was  surrendered  with  its  garrison,  on 
the  17th  of  May,  1780,  after'a  nominal  defence.  By  the  1st  of  June, 
the  British  were  in  possession  of  the  whole  State  of  South  Carolina, 
and  Clinton  was  so  well  convinced  of  the  completeness  of  its  subju- 
gation that  he  went  back  to  New  York  on  the  5th  of  June,  leaving 
the  command  in  the  South  to  Lord  Cornwallis. 

Small  bands  of  partisan  troops,  under  Marion,  Surater,  Pickens, 
and  other  no  less  devoted  though  less  famous  leaders,  now  sprang  up 
in  various  parts  of  the  State,  and  maintained  a  vigorous  guerilla  war- 
fare, from  which  the  enemy  suffered  greatly.  Congress  soon  after  sent 
an  army  under  General  Gates  into  South  Carolina  to  drive  the  enemy 
from  the  State.  Gates'  success  at  Saratoga  had  made  him  the  idol 
of  the  hour,  and  there  were  persons  who  seriously  desired  that  he 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  137 

should  even  supersede  Washington  himself;  but  his  northern  laurels 
soon  wilted  in  the  South.  Cornwallis  met  him  at  Camden,  routed 
him  with  a  loss  of  1000  men,  and  drove  him  into  North  Carolina. 
By  the  close  of  the  summer,  the  only  American  force  in  South  Caro- 
lina was  the  little  band  under  General  Marion.  Cornwallis,  feeling 
assured  that  his  communications  with  Charleston  were  safe,  followed 
Gates'  beaten  army  into  North  Carolina,  towards  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember. On  the  7th  of  October,  a  strong  detachment  of  his  army 
'.vas  totally  defeated,  with  a  loss  of  1200  men,  by  the  militia  of  North 
Carolina,  at  King's  Mountain.  This  was  a  severe  blow  to  him,  and 
checked  his  advance.  At  the  same  time  Marion  and  Pickens  renewed 
their  warfare  in  South  Carolina  so  actively,  and  rendered  Cornwallis' 
communications  with  the  sea  so  uncertain,  that  he  withdrew  towards 
Charleston. 

In  the  North,  the  British  commander  vainly  endeavored  to  draw 
Washington  into  a  general  engagement,  in  which  he  felt  confident 
that  his  vast  preponderance  of  numbers  would  give  him  the  victory. 
Washington  warily  avoided  being  caught  in  the  trap;  and  on  the  23d 
of  June,  General  Greene  inflicted  such  a  stinging  defeat  upon  a 
British  force  at  Springfield,  N.  J.,  that  Clinton  withdrew  to  New 
York,  and  remained  there  for  the  rest  of  the  year.  After  the  battle 
of  Camden,  General  Greene  was  sent  to  the  Carolinas,  to  take  com- 
mand of  Gates7  army. 

On  the  10th  of  July,  1780,  a  French  fleet  and  6000  troops,  all 
under  the  Count  de  Rochambeau,  reached  Newport,  Rhode  Island. 
In  September,  during  the  absence  of  Washington  at  Hartford,  Conn., 
whither  he  had  gone  to  arrange  a  plan  of  operations  with  the  French 
officers,  it  was  discovered  that  General  Benedict  Arnold,  one  of  the 
most  brilliant  officers  of  the  Continental  army,  had  agreed  to  deliver 
into  the  hands  of  the  British  the  important  fortress  of  West  Point, 
which  he  commanded  at  that  time.  The  plot  was  promptly  frus- 
trated, and  the  traitor  escaped,  but  Major  Andre,  a  British  officer 
who  had  concluded  the  arrangement  with  him,  and  whose  capture  had 
revealed  the  plot,  was  hanged  as  a  spy. 

Towards  the  close  of  the  year,  Great  Britain  having  discovered  that 
Holland  and  the  United  States  were  secretly  negotiating  a  treaty  of 
alliance,  declared  war  against  the  Dutch.  The  war  against  America, 
however,  still  continued  unpopular  with  the  English  people. 

The  campaign  of  1781  opened  with  the  brilliant  victory  at  the 
Cowpeus,  in  South  Carolina,  won  over  the  British  under  Colonel 


138  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Tarletou  by  General  Morgan,  on  the  17th  of  January.  On  the  15th 
of  March  the  battle  of  Guilford  Court  House  was  fought  in  North 
Carolina,  and  resulted  in  a  partial  victory  for  the  British.  In  Sep- 
tember, 1781,  the  royal  forces  were  terribly  beaten  in  the  bloody 
battle  of  Eutaw  Springs,  in  South  Carolina,  and  compelled  to  retire 
to  the  sea  coast,  to  which  they  were  confined  until  the  close  of  the  war. 

Meanwhile,  Cornwallis,  after  the  battle  of  Guilford  Court  House, 
had  advanced  into  Virginia,  driving  before  him  the  handful  of  forces 
under  Lafayette,  Wayne,  and  Steuben,  which  sought  to  oppose  his 
march.  He  occupied  himself  chiefly  while  in  Virginia  in  destroying 
private  property,  and  at  length,  in  August,  1781,  in  obedience  to 
orders  from  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  to  occupy  a  strong  defensive  position 
in  Virginia,  intrenched  himself  at  Yorktown,  near  the  entrance  of 
the  York  River  into  Chesapeake  Bay.  This  movement  led  to  an 
immediate  change  in  the  plan  of  operations  which  had  been  resolved 
upon  by  Washington,  whose  army  had  been  reenforced  on  the  Hudson 
by  the  French  troops  under  Count  de  Rochambeau.  It  had  been  his 
intention  to  attack  the  British  in  New  York  with  his  combined  force, 
aided  by  the  French  fleet,  but  Cornwallis'  situation  offered  such  a 
tempting  opportunity  that  he  at  once  resolved  to  transfer  his  army  to 
Virginia.  Skilfully  deceiving  Sir  Henry  Clinton  into  the  belief  that 
New  York  was  the  threatened  point,  and  thus  preventing  him  from 
sending  assistance  to  Cornwallis,  Washington  moved  rapidly  to  Vir- 
ginia, and  arrived  before  the  British  works  at  Yorktown,  with  an 
army  12,000  strong,  on  the  28th  of  September,  1781.  The  enemy's 
position  was  at  once  invested  by  land,  and  the  French  fleet  cut  off  all 
hope  of  escape  by  water.  The  siege  was  prosecuted  with  vigor,  and 
on  the  19th  of  October,  Cornwallis  surrendered  his  whole  army,  which 
consisted  of  7000  well  equipped  troops. 

This  victory  virtually  closed  the  war.  It  produced  the  wildest  joy 
in  America,  and  compelled  a  change  of  Ministers  in  England.  Lord 
North  and  his  Cabinet  retired  from  office  on  the  20th  of  March,  1782, 
and  the,  new  administration,  perceiving  the  hopelessness  of  tho 
struggle,  resolved  to  discontinue  the  war.  Orders  were  sent  to  the 
British  commanders  in  America  to  desist  from  further  hostilities,  and 
on  the  llth  of  July,  1782,  Savannah  was  evacuated  by  the  royal 
troops,  which  event  was  followed  by  the  evacuation  of  Charleston  on 
the  14th  of  December.  A  preliminary  treaty  of  peace  was  signed  at 
Paris  on  the  30th  of  November,  1782,  and  a  formal  treaty  on  the  3d 
of  September,  1783.  By  this  formal  treaty  Great  Britain  acknow- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  139 

1  edged  her  former  Colonies  to  be  free,  sovereign,  and  independent 
States,  and  withdrew  her  troops  from  New  York  on  the  25th  of  No- 
vember, 1783. 

The  great  war  was  now  over,  and  the  new  Republic  took  its  plaee 
in  the  family  of  nations ;  but  it  was  terribly  weakened  by  its  efforts. 
Its  finances  were  in  the  most  pitiful  condition,  and  it  had  not  the 
money  to  pay  the  troops  it  was  about  to  disband,  and  who  were  really 
suffering  for  want  of  funds.  Considerable  trouble  arose  on  this  account, 
and  it  required  all  the  great  influence  of  Washington  to  allay  the  dis- 
content. The  army  was  disbanded  immediately  after  the  close  of  the 
war,  and  on  the  23rd  of  December,  1783,  Washington  resigned  his 
commission  into  the  hands  of  Congress,  and  retired  to  his  home  at 
Mount  Vernon. 

It  was  found  that  the  Articles  of  Confederation  were  inadequate  to 
the  necessities  of  the  Republic,  and  a  new  Constitution  was  adopted  by 
the  States  after  much  deliberation.  It  went  into  operation  on  the  4th 
of  March,  1789.  The  city  of  New  York  was  designated  as  the 
seat  of  Government.  Washington  was  unanimously  chosen  the  first 
President  of  the  Republic,  with  John  Adams  as  Vice-President,  Pie 
went  into  office  on  the  30th  of  April,  1789.  The  first  measures  of  his 
administration  greatly  restored  the  confidence  of  the  people  in  the  Gov- 
ernment. Alexander  Hamilton,  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  inaug- 
urated a  series  of  financial  reforms,  which  were  eminently  beneficial. 
The  debts  of  the  old  Confederated  Government  and  the  debts  of  the 
States  themselves,  were  all  assumed  by  the  United  States ;  a  bank  of 
the  United  States  (which  went  into  operation  in  February  1794)  was 
incorporated,  and  a  national  Mint  was  established  at  Philadelphia. 
AM  Indian  war  in  the  West  was  firmly  and  vigorously  prosecuted  to 
a  successful  termination,  and  the  neutrality  of  the  Republic  with  regard 
to  the  various  parties  of  the  great  Revolution  in  Prance,  faithfully 
maintained. 

Washington  and  Adams  were  reflected  in  1792.  The  principal 
events  of  the  second  term  were  the  firmness  with  which  the  President 
met  the  efforts  of  the  French  Republic  to  embroil  the  United  States 
in  another  war  with  England ;  the  demand  for  the  recall  of  M.  Genet, 
the  French  Minister,  which  was  at  length  complied  with ;  the  British 
Treaty  of  1794  (commonly  known  as  Jay's  Treaty),  which  was  so 
warmly  discussed  by  the  Federalist  and  Republican  parties  in  this 
country;  the  outrageous  decrees  by  which  the  French  Government 
sought  to  cripple  American  commerce  in  revenge  for  the  supposed 


140  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

partiality  of  our  Government  for  England ;  the  .admission  into  the 
Union  of  the  States  of  Vermont  (1791),  Kentucky  (1792),  and  Ten- 
nessee (1796);  and  the  Whiskey  Insurrection,  in  1794,  which  was  a 
formidable  outbreak  in  Western  Pennsylvania  against  an  odious  excise 
law.  Washington  promptly  suppressed  it. 

Washington  was  urgently  importuned  to  be  a  candidate  for  another 
term,  but  declined,  although  it  was  sure  that  there  would  be  no  oppo- 
sition to  him.  In  September,  1796,  he  issued  a  "  Farewell  Address" 
to  his  countrymen,  warning  them  of  the  evils  to  which  their  new  system 
was  exposed,  and  urging  them  to  adhere  firmly  to  the  principles  of  the 
Constitution  as  their  only  hope  of  liberty  and  happiness. 

The  third  Presidental  election  occurred  in  1796,  and  was  marked 
by  a  display  of  bitterness  between  the  opposing  parties  never  .surpassed 
in  the  subsequent  history  of  the  Republic.  The  Federalists  presented 
John  Adams  as  their  candidate,  while  the  Republicans  advocated  the 
claims  of  Thomas  Jefferson.  Adams  received  the  highest  number  of 
votes,  and  Jefferson  the  next.  By  the  terms  of  the  Constitution  as  it 
then  existed,  Jefferson  was  declared  the  Vice- President.  President 
Adams  was  opposed  with  considerable  bitterness  by  his  political 
enemies  throughout  his  whole  term.  The  administration  of  the  Navy 
was  removed  from  the  War  Department  in  1798,  and  a  Navy  Depart- 
ment established.  On  the  15th  of  May,  1797,  the  President  convened 
Congress  in  extra  session  to  consider  the  relations  of  this  country  with 
France.  The  French  Directory  had  been  pursuing  for  some  years  a 
systematic  course  of  outrage  towards  the  ships  and  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  and  had  carried  this  to  such  an  extent  as  to  leave  little 
doubt  that  it  was  their  deliberate  intention  to  destroy  American  com- 
merce. Three  envoys  were  sent  to  France  by  President  Adams,  with 
authority  to  adjust  all  differences  between  the  two  countries.  The 
Directory  refused  to  receive  them,  but  they  were  given  to  understand 
that  the  payment  of  a  large  sum  of  money  by  their  Government  would 
greatly  tend  towards  securing  proper  treatment  for  our  vessels;  and  it 
was  plainly  intimated  that  if  the  American  Government  refused  to 
pay  this  bribe,  it  would  have  to  'go  to  war  for  its  obstinacy.  When 
this  message  was  delivered  to  the  Commissioners,  one  of  their  number, 
Charles  C.  Pinckney,  returned  this  memorable  and  patriotic  reply,  in 
which  his  associates  heartily  joined:  "War  be  it  then;  millions  for 
defence,  but  not  a  cent  for  tribute."  The  French  Government  then 
informed  Mr.  Gerry,  who  was  a  Republican,  that  he  could  remain  in 
France,  but  ordered  Messrs.  Pinckney  and  Marshall  to  quit  the  country. 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  141 

Great  indignation  prevailed  throughout  the  Union,  when  these  in- 
sults to  the  American  Commissioners  became  known.  The  Govern- 
ment at  once  took  measures  to  raise  an  army  and  navy  adequate  to 
the  struggle  which  seemed  imminent.  Washington  was  appointed  Com- 
mander-in-Chief,  with  the  rank  of  Lieuteriant-General,  and  hostilities 
actually  began  at  sea,  where  the  cruisers  of  the  Republic  won  several 
brilliant  successes  over  French  ships  of  war. 

The  energy  and  determination  thus  manifested  by  the  United  States 
had  a  happy  effect  in  France,  and  the  war  was  finally  averted  by  the 
accession  of  Napoleon  to  the  dignity  of  First  Consul.  The  new  ruler 
of  France  intimated  his  willingness  to  reopen  the  negotiations  with 
America,  and  a  treaty  of  peace  and  amity  between  the  two  countries 
was  definitely  concluded,  on  the  30th  of  September,  1800. 

During  the  existence  of  hostilities  with  France,  two  laws  were 
enacted  by  Congress,  which  are  generally  known  as  the  "Alien  and 
Sedition  Laws."  They  empowered  the  President  to  send  out  of  the 
country  such  aliens  as  should  be  found  conspiring  against  the  peace 
and  safety  of  the  Republic,  and  to  restrict  the  liberty  of  speech  and 
of  the  press.  It  was  true  beyond  all  doubt,  as  the  Government  claimed 
in  defence  of  its  course,  that  the  country  was  overrun  with  English 
and  French  agents,  who  we.re  here  for  the  express  purpose  of  embroil- 
ing the  United  States  in  the  quarrels  in  progress  in  the  Old  World, 
and  that  the  press,  which  was  controlled  mainly  by  European  adven- 
turers, had  become  so  corrupt  and  licentious  as  to  be  highly  dangerous 
to  the  peace  of  the  country.  Nevertheless,  these  Acts  aroused  such 
a  strong  opposition  throughout  the  States,  that  the  Federalists  were 
overwhelmingly  defeated  in  the  next  Presidential  election.  During 
President  Adams'  term,  the  seat  of  Government  was  removed  to  Wash- 
ington City. 

In  the  fourth  contest  for  the  Presidency,  the  votes  of  the  Republican 
party  were  equally  divided  between  Thomas  Jefferson  and  Aaron  Burr. 
Each  received  73  electoral  votes.  This  threw  the  election  into  the 
House  of  Representatives,  where  Jefferson  was  chosen  President  and 
Burr  Vice-President.  This  circumstance  also  occasioned  an  amend- 
ment to  the  Constitution  (adopted  finally  in  1804),  requiring  the  elec- 
tors to  vote  separately,  as  at  present,  for  President  and  Vice-President. 
Mr.  Jefferson  entered  upon  his  office  in  March,  1801,  and  soon  after 
began  to  remove  the  Federalist  office-holders  under  the  Government, 
appointed  by  his  predecessor,  and  to  fill  their  places  with  Republicans, 
or  Democrats  as  they  now  began  to  call  themselves.  He  justified  his 


142  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

course  by  declaring  that  Mr.  Adams  had  appointed  none  but  Fede- 
ralists to  office,  and  that  it  was  not  fair  for  one  party  to  have  all  the 
offices,  or  even  a  majority  of  them.  This  was  the  beginning  of  the 
system  of  removals  from  office  for  political  causes,  which  has  been  the 
bane  of  our  Government;  but  it  should  be  added,  in  justice  to  Mr.  Jef- 
ferson, that  he  was  not  guilty  of  such  wholesale  political  decapitation 
as  has  usually  been  practised  by  his  successors.  His  removals  were 
few  in  proportion  to  the  whole  number  of  officials.  His  first  term 
was  marked  by  wisdom  and  vigor.  The  domestic  affairs  of  the  nation 
prospered,  and  the  finances  were  managed  in  a  masterly  manner  by 
Albert  Gallatin,  the  great  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  Louisiana  was 
purchased  from  France,  and  the  insolence  and  piracies  of  the  Barbary 
States  of  Africa  punished  and  stopped. 

In  1804,  Mr.  Jefferson  was  reflected,  receiving  all  but  14  of  the 
electoral  votes.  Burr  was  supceeded  in  the  Vice-Presidency  by  Georo^ 
Clinton,  and  two  years  later  was  arrested  and  tried  for  a  supposed 
attempt  to  separate  the  Western  States  from  the  Union.  He  \\ui? 
acquitted  of  the  charge,  and  his  innocence  is  now  generally  admitted, 
American  commerce  was  much  injured  by  the  retaliatory  decnws 
and  orders  in  Council  of  the  French  and  British  Governments,  under 
the  sanction  of  which  American  ships  were  seized  with  impunity  in 
gross  violation  of  the  laws  of  nations.  Great  Britain  was  not  content 
with  these  outrages,  but  asserted  a  right  to  impress  American  seamen 
into  her  navy,  and  to  stop  and  search  American  vessels  for  deserters 
from  her  ships  of  war.  These  searches  were  generally  conducted  in 
the  most  aggravating  manner,  and  hundreds  of  American  sailors, 
owing  no  allegiance  to  King  George,  were  forced  into  the  British 
service.  In  June,  1807,  the  American  frigate  Chesapeake,  on  her 
way  to  the  Mediterranean,  was  stopped  off  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  by 
the  British  frigate  Leopard,  whose  commander  produced  an  order 
requiring  him  to  search  the  ship  for  deserters.  The  American  vessel 
refused  to  submit  to  the  search,  and  was  fired  into  by  the  Leopard, 
and,  being  in  a  helpless  condition,  was  forced  to  yield  with  a  loss  of 
twenty-one  of  her  crew.  Four  men  were  taken  from  her  and  sent  on 
board  the  Leopard.  Three  of  these  afterwards  proved  to  be  native- 
born  Americans.  This  outrage  aroused  a  feeling  of  the  most  intense 
indignation  in  America,  and  the  Federal  Government  at  once  de- 
manded reparation  at  the  hands  of  Great  Britain,  which  was  evaded 
for  the  time,  but  finally  made  in  1811. 

On  the  llth  of  November,   1807,  England    issued  an  order  in 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  143 

Council,  forbidding  neutral  vessels  to  enter  the  ports  of  France  until 
they  had  first  touched  nt  a  British  port  and  paid  a  duty;  and  the 
next  month  Napoleon  \splied  to  this,  by  issuing  a  decree  from  Milan, 
ordering  the  coafi?cp.t'';o  of  every  vessel  which  should  submit  to  search 
by  or  pay  any  duties  to  the  British  authorities.  These  two  piratical 
decrees,  each  of  which  was  enforced  by  a  powerful  navy,  meant  simply 
the  destruction  of  all  neutral  commerce,  and  that  of  America  in  par- 
ticular. Mr.  Jefferson  recommended  to  Congress,  in  December,  to 
lay  an  embargo,  detaining  all  vessels,  American  or  foreign,  in  the 
ports  of  the  United  States,  and  to  order  the  immediate  return  home 
of  all  American  vessels.  This  measure,  which  was  a  most  singular 
expedient,  was  adopted,  and  gave  rise  to  such  intense  dissatisfaction 
in  all  parts  of  the  country,  that  it  was  repealed  .in  February,  1809. 

As  Mr.  Jefferson  declined  to  be  a  candidate  for  a  third  term,  the 
Democratic  party  supported  James  Madison,  of  Virginia,  for  the 
Presidency,  and  George  Clinton,  of  New  York,  for  the  Vice-Presi- 
dency, and  elected  them  in  1808.  They  were  inaugurated  in  March, 
1809.'  The  measures  of  Mr.  Jefferson's  second  term,  and  especially 
the  embargo,  had  given  rise  to  considerable  opposition  to  the  Demo- 
cracy, and  this  opposition  was  now  directed  against  the  new  adminis- 
tration with  no  little  bitterness,  and  followed  it  persistently  until  its 
withdrawal  from  power. 

Great  Britain,  instead  of  discontinuing  her  outrages  upon  American 
seamen  and  commerce,  increased  them  every  day,  persistently  refusing 
to  be  influenced  by  the  protests  and  representations  of  the  United 
States;  and  our  Government,  having  at  length  exhausted  all  peace- 
able means  of  redress,  was  compelled  to  defend  its  rights  with  arms. 
War  was  declared  against  England  on  the  3d  of  June,  1812,  and 
measures  looking  to  the  conquest  of  Canada  were  at  once  set  on  foot. 
The  nation  was  poorly  prepared  for  war.  The  embargo  had  almost 
entirely  destroyed  the  revenue  of  the  Government,  and  the  finances 
were  in  a  state  of  sad  confusion ;  the  navy  consisted  of  only  eight 
frigates  and  seven  other  vessels ;  and  the  army  was  a  mere  handful 
of  inefficient  recruits.  Still,  America  possessed  this  advantage.  Great 
Britain  was  forced  to  make  such  tremendous  exertions  to  carry  on  her 
war  with  France,  that  she  did  not  have  much  strength  left  to  expend 
upon  this  country.  This  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  England  made  no 
effort  to  blockade  our  coast  until  the  20th  of  March,  1813,  when, 
having  sent  a  strong  fleet  to  our  waters,  she  proclaimed  the  blockade 
of  the  entire  American  coast,  except  the  shores  of  New  England. 


144  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Congress  authorized  the  President  to  increase  the  regular  army  by 
25,000  men,  and  to  call  for  50,000  volunteers.  The  calls  were 
responded  to  promptly  in  some  of  the  States,  tardily  in  some,  and 
almost  ignored  in  others,  for  the  country  was  far  from  being  united 
in  support  of  the  war. 

Hostilities  began  in  the  Northwest,  Previous  to  the  war,  the 
Indians  of  that  region,  instigated  by  British  emissaries,  commenced  to 
make  war  upon  the  American  settlements,  under  the  leadership  of  the 
famous  Shawnee  Chief  Tecumseh.  General  Harrison  (afterwards 
President),  the  Governor  of  the  Territory  of  Indiana,  as  soon  as  he 
learned  of  this,  organized  a  considerable  force  of  Western  militia,  and 
marched  against  the  savages,  whom  he  defeated  with  terrible  loss,  in 
a  sanguinary  battle  atTippecanoe,  on  the  banks  of  the  Wabash  River, 
on  the  7th  of  November,  1811.  Though  defeated  in  this  battle,  Te- 
cumseh was  not  conquered.  He  passed  the  next  six  months  in  re- 
organizing his  forces,  and  with  the  beginning  of  the  summer  of  1812, 
renewed  hostilities.  General  Hull,  then  Governor  of  Michigan,  was 
sent  to  meet  him  with  a  force  of  2000  men.  He  had  just  begun  his 
march  when  war  was  declared  against  England,  and  he  was  ordered 
to  discontinue  his  expedition  against  the  Indians,  and  invade  Canada. 
His  force  was  utterly  inadequate  to  such  an  undertaking,  but  the  War 
Department  was  too  stupid  to  perceive  this.  He  entered  Canada  from 
Detroit,  was  met  by  a  superior  force  of  British  and  Indians,  under 
General  Brock,  and  was  driven  back  to  Detroit  with  a  loss  of  1200  men. 
This  reduced  his  army  to  800  men,  with  which  he  could  do  absolutely 
nothing.  On  the  16th  of  August,  he  surrendered  Detroit  to  the 
enemy,  who  had  followed  him  from  Canada.  This  placed  the  whole 
of  Michigan  in  the  hands  of  General  Brock.  An  invasion  of  Canada 
from  the  Niagara  frontier  was  also  undertaken  by  our  forces  during 
the  fall  of  1812.  It  was  a  most  disastrous  failure. 

These  defeats  on  land,  however,  were  partly  atoned  for  by  our  suc- 
cesses at  sea.  The  navy  had  been  utterly  neglected  by  the  Govern- 
ment at  the  outset  of  the  war,  and  had  been  left  to  win  by  good  service 
whatever  encouragement  it  afterwards  received.  It  achieved  during 
the  latter  part  of  1812  a  series  of  brilliant  victories,  which  placed  it 
in  the  proud  position  it  has  since  held.  On  the  19th  of  August,  the 
frigate  Constitution,  Captain  Hull,  captured  the  British  frigate 
Guerriere;  on  the  18th  of  October,  the  sloop  of  war  Wasp,  Captain 
Jones,  captured  the  British  brig  Frolic;  on  the  25th  of  October,  the 
frigate  United  States,  Captain  Decatur,  captured  the  British  frigate 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  145 

Macedonian ;  and  on  the  29th  of  December,  the  Constitution,  Captain 
Bainbridge,  captured  the  British  frigate  Java.  Privateers  were  sent 
to  sea  in  great  numbers,  and,  by  the  close  of  the  year  1812,  had  cap- 
tured over  300  English  merchant  vessels. 

The  Government  renewed  its  efforts  against  Canada  with  the  open- 
ing of  the  campaign  of  1813.  An  army,  under  General  Harrison, 
was  collected  near  the  head  of  Lake  Erie,  and  styled  the  Army  of  the 
West ;  an  Army  of  the  "Centre,  under  General  Dearborn,  was  stationed 
along  the  Niagara  frontier ;  and  an  Army  of  the  North,  under  General 
Wade  Hampton,  was  posted  in  northern  New  York,  on  the  border  of 
Lake  Champlain.  There  were  numerous  engagements  between  these 
forces  and  the  enemy,  but  nothing  definite  was  accomplished  during 
the  first  half  year.  In  April,  General  Pike,  with  a  force  of  1700 
Americans,  captured  York  (now  Toronto),  the  capital  of  Upper 
Canada,  but  was  himself  killed  by  the  explosion  of  a  mine  fired  by 
the  enemy.  The  town  was  not  held,  however,  and  the  success  of  the 
attack  was  fully  balanced  by  the  terrible  disaster  which  had  befallen 
the  Western  Army,  in  January,  at  River  Raisin,  in  which  a  detach- 
ment of  800  men,  under  General  Winchester,  had  been  defeated  and 
the  greater  portion  of  them  massacred  by  the  Indians,  who  were  now 
the  open  allies  of  the  English.  In  May,  the  British  made  an  attack 
on  Sackett's  Harbor,  on  Lake  Ontario,  but  were  repulsed.  In  the 
same  month,  an  American  force,  under  General  Boyd  and  Colonel 
Miller,  captured  Fort  George,  in  Canada,  inflicting  upon  the  British 
a  loss  of  nearly  1000  men.  Nothing  definite  was  accomplished  on 
the  Niagara  frontier,  owing  to  the  quarrels  between  Generals  Wilkin- 
son and  Hampton,  and  the  grand  invasion  of  Canada,  from  which  so 
much  had  been  expected,  never  took  place.  The  great  events  of  the 
year,  however,  were  the  destruction  of  the  British  fleet  on  Lake  Erie, 
by  the  squadron  of  Captain  Oliver  H.  Perry,  on  the  10th  of  September, 
which  caused  the  enemy  to  abandon  the  lake  and  with  it  the  shores 
of  Michigan  and  Ohio ;  and  the  battle  of  the  Thames,  in  Canada,  in 
which  the  Western  Army,  under  General  Harrison,  on  the  6th  of 
October,  utterly  defeated  a  strong  British  column,  under  General 
Proctor,  and  a  force  of  2000  Indians,  under  Tecumseh,  inflicting  upon 
them  a  severe  loss  in  killed  and  wounded — Tecumseh  himself  being 
among  the  former — and  taking  600  prisoners,  6  pieces  of  cannon,  and 
large  quantities  of  stores. 

At  sea,  this  year,  the  American   brig  Hornet,  Captain  Lawrence, 
captured  the  Peacock.     On  the  24th  of  February,  Captain  Lawrence 
10 


146 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SCENE    OF    THE    BATTLE    OF   LAKE    CHAMPLAIX. 

was  put  in  command  of  the  frigate  Chesapeake,  which  was  captured 
by  the  British  frigate  Shannon,  off  Boston,  on  the  1st  of  June.  Law- 
rence was  mortally  wounded  in  this  engagement.  On  the  5th  of 
September,  the  American  brig  Enterprise,  Lieutenant  Burrows,  cap- 
tured the  British  brig  Boxer,  Lieutenant  Blythe.  Both  commanders 
were  killed  in  the  fight. 

The  campaign  of  1814  was  more  important.  The  war  in  Europe 
having  closed,  large  numbers  of  Wellington's  veteran  troops  were 
sent  over  to  America.  They  reached  this  country  during  the  latter 
part  of  the  year.  On  the  5th  of  July,  the  American  army,  under 
General  Brown,  defeated  the  British  at  Chippewa.  On  the  25th  of 
the  same  month3  General  Brown  won  a  second  victory  over  the  enemy 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  147 

at  Lundy's  Lane,  or  Bridgewater.  General  Winfield  Scott  held  an 
important  command  in  each  of  these  engagements,  and  was  wounded 
in  the  latter.  Towards  the  close  of  the  summer,  Sir  George  Prevost, 
having  been  strongly  reenforced  from  Wellington's  army,  invaded  the 
United  States  from  Canada,  at  the  head  of  14,000  men.  He  was  ac- 
companied by  a  powerful  fleet,  which  moved  up  Lake  Champlain. 
He  was  met  at  Plattsburg,  New  York,  on  the  3d  of  September,  by 
the  little  army  of  General  Macomb  and  a  small  fleet  under  Commo- 
dore Macdonongh.  Macdonough  inflicted  a  terrible  defeat  on  the 
British  squadron,  utterly  routing  it  with  heavy  loss,  and  General 
Macomb  at  the  same  time  repulsed  every  effort  on  the  part  of  the 
land  forces  of  Sir  George  Prevost,  who,  dismayed  at  his  disasters, 
retreated  hastily  into  Canada,  with  a  loss  of  2500  men  and  the  greater 
part  of  his  fleet. 

In  August,  a  British  army,  under  General  Ross,  landed  on  the 
shore  of  the  Patuxent  River,  in  Maryland,  and  advanced  upon  the 
city  of  Washington,  defeating  the  small  American  force  which  sought 
to  bar  its  way  at  Bladensburg.  General  Ross  succeeded  in  occupying 
Washington,  from  which,  after  burning  the  public  buildings,  he  re- 
tired to  his  fleet,  which  had  ascended  the  Potomac  to  Alexandria,  to 
meet  him.  He  then  passed  up  to  Baltimore,  landing  at  North  Point, 
near  that  city,  while  his  fleet  made  a  sharp  attack  upon  Fort  Mc- 
Henry,  which  commanded  the  approach  by  water  to  the  city.  The 
fleet  was  repulsed  by  the  fort,  and  Ross  was  killed  in  a  skirmish  near 
North  Point.  His  successor  at  once  reembarked  the  army,  and 
abandoned  the  effort  against  Baltimore.  At  sea,  the  American  frigates 
Essex  and  President  were  taken  by  superior  forces  of  the  enemy, 
while  the  British  sloops  of  war,  Epervier,  Avon,  Reindeer,  Cyane, 
Levant,  and  Penguin  were  captured  by  the  American  cruisers. 

During  the  remainder  of  the  year,  nothing  of  importance  occurred 
on  land,  but  in  January,  1815,  a  British  force  of  12,000  of  Welling- 
ton's veteran  troops  made  an  attack  upon  the  city  of  New  Orleans, 
but  were  defeated  with  the  loss  of  their  commander  and  2000  men, 
by  5000  American  troops  under  General  Jackson.  This  battle  was 
fought  after  a  treaty  of  peace  had  been  signed  in  Europe  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain,  but  before  the  news  had  reached 
America.  The  victory  was  most  important  to  the  Americans,  for  had 
the  result  been  different,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  England  would 
have  disregarded  the  treaty  and  have  clung  to  a  conquest  which  would 
have  given  her  the  control  of  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi.  In  this 


148 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE  PLAIN   OF  CHALMETTE :    SCENE  OF  THE  BATTLE 
OF   NEW   ORLEANS. 

case,  either  the  war  would  have  been  prolonged  upon  a  more  formid- 
able scale,  or  the  destiny  of  the  great  West  would  have  been  marred 
forever. 

The  restoration  of  peace  in  Europe  upon  the  downfall  of  Napoleon 
removed  many  of  the  vexatious  issues  which  had  produced  the  war  in 
this  country,  and  disposed  the  British  Government  to  be  just  in  its 
dealings  with  America.  Negotiations  were  begun  in  1814,  and  a 
treaty  of  peace  was  finally  signed  at  Ghent,  on  the  24th  of  December, 
1814.  By  the  terms  of  this  treaty,  the  two  Governments  agreed  to 
settle  the  vexed  question  of  a  boundary  between  the  United  States 
and  Canada,  and  to  mutually  return  all  territory  taken  during  the 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  149 

war,  and  arranged  some  minor  details  relating  to  their  future  inter- 
course, but  nothing  was  said  of  the  question  of  the  impressment  of 
American  seamen,  the  chief  cause  of  the  war.  Inasmuch,  however, 
as  Great  Britain  has  never  since  then  attempted  such  outrages,  this 
question  also  may  be  regarded  as  settled  by  the  war.  During  the 
war,  the  Barbary  States  resumed  their  old  acts  of  piracy  upon  Ameri- 
can vessels,  notwithstanding  the  pledges  which  they  had  given,  and 
upon  the  return  of  peace  with  England,  a  strong  naval  force  under 
Commodores  Bainbridge  and  Decatur  was  sent  to  the  Mediterranean. 
This  expedition  forced  the  Barbary  Powers  to  make  indemnity  for 
their  piracies,  and  to  pledge  themselves  to  cease  to  molest  American 
vessels  in  the  future. 

The  Federalist  party  had  always  opposed  the  war  with  England, 
and  during  its  continuance  gave  it  no  assistance  beyond  the  aid  which 
the  laws  of  the  land  extorted  from  them.  The  strength  of  this  party 
lay  in  the  New  England  States,  where  the  losses  occasioned  by  the 
war  fell  heaviest.  The  Federalists  denounced  the  war  as  unnecessary 
and  unjust,  and  waged  in  reality  for  the  benefit  of  France  rather  than 
of  America,  and  complained  that  while  they  lost  heavily  by  it,  the 
Government  did  nothing  for  the  protection  of  the  Eastern  States. 
To  remedy  the  evils  of  which  they  complained,  their  leaders  met  in 
Convention  at  Hartford,  Conn.,  near  the  close  of  the  war.  The  Con- 
vention recommended  certain  measures  to  the  Legislatures  of  the 
Eastern  States  limiting  the  power  of  the  General  Government  over 
the  militia  of  the  States,  and  urged  the  adoption  of  several  amend- 
ments to  the  Constitution.  The  news  of  the  treaty  of  peace  put  a 
stop  to  all  further  proceedings  of  this  body.  The  Convention  resulted 
in  nothing  but  the  ultimate  destruction  of  the  Federalist  party,  which 
came  to  be  regarded  by  the  people  at  large  as  having  been  untrue  to 
the  Republic  in  its  hour  of  need. 

Mr.  Madison  was  reflected  President,  and  Elbridge  Gerry  chosen 
Vice-President,  in  1812.  Thus  the  former  had  the  satisfaction  of 
conducting  the  war,  which  had  been  begun  during  his  administration, 
to  a  successful  close.  He  declined  to  be  a  candidate  for  a  third  term, 
and  James  Monroe,  of  Virginia,  was  nominated  by  the  Democratic 
party,  and  elected  in  1816,  with  Daniel  D.  Tompkins,  of  New  York, 
as  Vice-President.  Mr.  Monroe  had  been  Secretary  of  State  during 
the  greater  part  of  Mr.  Madison's  administration. 

The  return  of  peace  found  the  country  burdened  with  a  debt  of 
$80,000,000,  and  with  almost  a  total  absence  of  specie  in  its  mercan- 


150  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

tile  transactions,  the  majority  of  the  banks  having  suspended  payments 
of  gold  and  silver.  In  1817,  Congress  established  a  National  Bank 
at  Philadelphia,  with  a  charter  for  twenty  years  and  a  capital  of 
$35,000,000.  The  notes  of  this  institution  supplied  to  a  great  extent 
the  demand  for  a  circulating  medium  of  uniform  value  throughout  the 
country,  and  did  much  to  relieve  the  financial  distress  of  the  period. 

Two  States  were  added  to  the  Union  during  Mr.  Madison's  admin- 
istration, Louisiana  (in  1812)  and  Indiana  (in  1816). 

Mr.  Monroe  had  been  exceedingly  popular  as  Secretary  of  State, 
and  the  good  will  of  the  people  followed  him  into  the  Presidential 
chair.  His  administration  proved  so  acceptable  to  all  parties  that  he 
was  reflected  in  1820  by  every  electoral  vote  but  one.  Five  new 
States  were  admitted  into  the  Union  during  his  continuance  in  office, 
viz:  Mississippi  (1817),  Illinois  (1818),  Alabama  (1819),  Maine 
(1820),  and  Missouri  (1821). 

For  some  years  the  opposition  to  African  slavery  in  America  had 
been  spreading  through  the  Northern  States,  and  had  been  steadily 
gathering  strength.  When  the  territory  of  Missouri  presented  its  pe- 
tition to  Congress  for  admission  as  a  State  with  a  Constitution  sanc- 
tioning slavery  within  its  limits,  there  was  a  very  general  determination 
expressed  on  the  part  of  the  Free-labor  States  to  oppose  the  admission 
of  another  Slaveholding  State.  The  Southern  members  of  the  Con- 
federacy, on  the  other  hand,  insisted  upon  the  right  of  Missouri  to 
choose  its  own  institutions,  and  threatened  to  withdraw  from  the 
Union  if  this  right  was  denied  her  by  excluding  her  from  the  Union. 
A  bitter  contest  with  regard  to  the  subject  of  slavery  now  developed 
itself  between  the  two  sections  of  the  Republic,  which  ceased  only 
with  the  late  Rebellion.  The  country  was  agitated  in  every  portion, 
and  the  best  men  of  the  land  expressed  grave  fears  that  the  Union 
would  be  torn  to  pieces  by  the  violence  of  the  contending  parties. 
After  much  wrangling,  however,  Henry  Clay  succeeded  in  procuring 
the  passage  of  a  series  of  measures  known  as  the  "  Missouri  Com- 
promise." By  this  arrangement,  Missouri  was  admitted  into  the 
Union  with  her  slaveholding  Constitution,  and  slavery  was  forever 
prohibited  in  that  portion  of  the  Territory  of  the  Republic  lying  north 
of  36°  30'  N.  latitude.  This  Compromise  was  regarded  as  a  final 
settlement  of  the  slavery  question,  and  had  the  effect  of  securing  about 
thirty  years  of  quiet  and  repose  for  the  country. 

During  Mr.  Monroe's  Presidency,  the  Spanish  Republics  of  South 
America  declared  their  independence  of  Spain,  and  successfully  main- 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  151 

tained  it  for  several  years.  In  1822,  they  were  recognized  by  the 
United  States.  In  his  annual  message  for  the  year  1823,  Mr.  Monroe 
gave  utterance  to  the  following  principle,  which  has  since  been  dis- 
tinctly recognized  by  successive  administrations  as  the  unwavering 
policy  of  the  United  States  :  "  That  as  a  principle  the  American  con- 
tinents, by  the  free  and  independent  position  which  they  have  assumed 
and  maintained,  are  henceforth  not  to  be  considered  as  subjects  for 
future  colonization  by  any  European  power."  This  declaration  is 
commonly  known  as  the  "  Monroe  Doctrine." 

Mr.  Monroe  declined  to  be  a  candidate  for  reelection  in  the  political 
campaign  of  1824.  A  number  of  candidates  were  presented  to  the 
people,  but  the  popular  vote  merely  threw  the  election  into  the  House 
of  Representatives,  when  John  Quincy  Adams,  of  Massachusetts,  was 
chosen  President.  John  C.  Calhoun,  of  South  Carolina,  had  already 
been  chosen  Vice-President  by  the  people.  The  principal  event  of 
this  administration  was  the  adoption  for  the  first  time  of  a  high  tariff 
for  the  purpose  of  protecting  American  manufactures  from  the  com- 
petition of  foreign  importations.  This  act  was  sustained  by  the 
Northern  people,  who  were  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  for  whose 
benefit  it  was  adopted,  but  was  bitterly  denounced  by  the  South, 
which,  being  an  agricultural  country,  naturally  desired  the  liberty  of 
buying  her  goods  where  they  could  be  procured  best  and  cheapest. 
The  division  of  sentiment  thus  produced  grew  more  distinct  every 
day,  and  brought  about  considerable  trouble  in  the  end.  There  can 
be  no  doubt  that  it  was  one  of  the  principal  causes  of  the  late  civil 
war. 

In  1828,  Andrew  Jackson,  of  Tennessee,  was  elected  President 
over  Mr.  Adams,  and  John  C.  Calhoun  chosen  Vice-President  a  sec- 
ond time.  The  President,  at  the  outset  of  his  term,  increased  the 
number  of  his  Constitutional  advisers  by  inviting  the  Postmaster- 
General  to  a  seat  in  his  Cabinet.  The  right  of  the  Postmaster-General 
to  such  a  place  had  never  been  conceded  before,  but  has  always  been 
acknowledged  since  1829. 

The  new  President  began  his  career  by  advising  Congress,  in  his 
annual  message,  not  to  extend  the  operations  of  the  National  Bank, 
whose  directors  sought  a  renewal  of  its  charter.  He  declared  that 
the  existence  of  such  an  institution  was  not  authorized  by  the  Consti- 
tution. This  inaugurated  a  long  and  bitter  contest  between  the  ad- 
ministration and  the  friends  of  the  bank,  which  was  sustained  by 
almost  the  entire  mercantile  community.  In  1832,  Congress  passed 


152  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

a  bill  renewing  the  charter  of  the  bank,  which  was  vetoed  by  the 
President.  An  effort  was  made  to  pass  the  bill  over  the  veto,  but 
failed  for  want  of  the  constitutional  number  of  votes*  The  charter  of 
the  bank,  therefore,  expired  by  law  in  1836. 

The  tariff  question  assumed  formidable  proportions,  during  this 
administration.  In  1832,  Congress  increased  the  rate  of  duties. 
South  Carolina  immediately  declared  her  intention  to  resist  the  efforts 
of  the  General  Government  to  collect  duties  in  the  port  of  Charleston, 
and  prepared  to  maintain  her  position  by  force  of  arms.  The  great 
leader  of  this  opposition  to  the  Government  was  John  C.  Calhoun, 
who  had  a  short  time  previous  resigned  the  office  of  Vice-President, 
to  become  a  United  States  Senator  from  South  Carolina.  His  princi- 
pal coadjutors  were  Robert  G.  Hayne,  Senator  from  South  Carolina, 
and  George  McDuffie,  the  Governor  of  the  State.  The  party  of  which 
these  brilliant  men  were  the  leaders,  boldly  declared  that  a  State  might 
at  pleasure  nullify  any  law  of  Congress  which  it  believed  to  be  uncon- 
stitutional. The  danger  to  the  country  was  very  great,  and  it  seemed 
that  open  war  would  prevail  between  the  General  Government  and 
South  Carolina;  for  President  Jackson,  who  had  been  reflected  in 
1832,  with  Martin  Van  Buren  of  New  York  as  Vice-President, 
declared  his  determination  to  enforce  the  law.  He  sent  a  ship  of  war 
to  Charleston,  ordered  General  Scott  to  proceed  to  that  place  with  all 
the  available  troops  under  his  command,  issued  a  proclamation  deny- 
ing the  right  of  a  State  to  nullify  the  laws  of  the  Federal  Government, 
and  warning  all  persons  engaged  in  sustaining  the  State  of  South 
Carolina  in  its  unlawful  course  that  the  extreme  penalty  of  the  law 
against  treason  would  be  inflicted  upon  them.  He  also  caused  the 
leaders  of  the  rebellion  to  be  privately  informed  of  his  intention  to 
seize  and  hang  them  as  soon  as  they  should  commit  the  first  overt  act 
against  the  United  States.  The  President's  firmness  averted  the 
troubles  for  the  time.  He  was  sustained  by  the  great  mass  of  the 
people  throughout  the  country,  and  the  vexed  question  was  finally 
settled  by  the  introduction  of  measures  into  Congress  for  the  gradual 
reduction  of  the  obnoxious  duties.  This  compromise  was  proposed 
by  Henry  Clay,  and  accepted  by  the  nullifiers,  who  were  now  con- 
vinced that  "  Old  Hickory  "  was  sincere  in  his  threat  to  enforce  the 
law. 

The  bank  question  came  up  again,  just  as  the  nullification  excite- 
ment died  out.  The  public  funds  were  required  by  law  to  be  de- 
posited in  the  Bank  of  the  United  States,  the  charter  of  which  was 


THE    UNITED    STATES.       .  153 

about  to  expire  by  limitation.  The  President,  in  December,  1832, 
recommended  the  removal  by  Congress  of  these  funds,  but  that  body 
refused  to  take  this  step.  The  President  then  ordered  the  Secretary 
of  the  Treasury,  Mr.  McLane,  to  remove  the  funds  and  deposit  them 
in  specified  State  banks.  Mr.  McLane  refused  to  do  so,  and  was 
transferred  to  the  State  Department,  which  was  then  vacant.  Wil- 
liam J.  Duane  was  then  appointed  to  the  Treasury,  but  he,  too,  re- 
fused to  remove  the  funds,  and  was  deprived  of  his  office  and  suc- 
ceeded by  Roger  B.  Taney,  who  promptly  transferred  the  funds  from 
the  *Bank  of  the  United  States  to  the  State  banks  designated  by  the 
President.  This  step  left  no  doubt  on  the  part  of  the  people  of  the 
intention  of  the  President  to  destroy  the  National  Bank,  and  produced 
a  severe  panic  in  business  circles.  The  President  lost  many  friends, 
and  was  severely  denounced  throughout  the  country.  In  the  Senate, 
Clay,  Calhoun  and  Webster,  the  leaders  of  the  opposition,  assailed 
him  bitterly,  and  the  Senate  passed  a  resolution  censuring  his  course, 
by  a  vote  of  26  ayes  to  20  noes.  He  was  sustained  by  the  House  of 
Representatives,  whose  endorsement,  considering  the  origin  of  that 
body,  was  more  important  than  the  censure  of  the  Senate.  In  March, 
1837,  the  Senate  expunged  its  resolution  of  censure  from  its  journal. 

During  President  Jackson's  administration,  the  national  debt  was 
paid,  and  the  States  of  Arkansas  (in  1836)  and  Michigan  (1837)  were 
admitted  into  the  Union.  France,  Spain,  Naples,  and  Portugal  were 
forced  to  make  good  their  depredations  upon  American  commerce; 
important  commercial  treaties  were  negotiated  with  foreign  countries ; 
and  the  war  against  the  Seminole  Indians  in  Florida  was  begun  and 
prosecuted  with  vigor.  This  war  lasted  until  1842,  and  cost  the 
country  $40,000,000. 

In  1836,  Martin  Van  Buren,  of  New  York,  the  candidate  of  the 
Democratic  party,  was  elected  President.  The  contest  for  the  Vice- 
Presidency  was  thrown  into  the  Senate,  and  resulted  in  the  choice  of 
Richard  M.  Johnson.  Mr.  Van  Buren  began  his  administration  at  the 
outset  of  the  great  commercial  crisis  of  1837,  and  was  seriously  ham- 
pered during  the  whole  of  his  term,  by  the  troubles  arising  from  that 
disaster.  The  principal  measures  of  his  administration  were  designed  to 
remedy  the  financial  evils  from  which  the  country  was  suffering.  The 
most  important  was  the  establishment  of  the  Sub-Treasury  of  the 
United  States,  which  is  still  in  operation. 

In  1840,  William  Henry  Harrison  of  Indiana,  and  John  Tyler 
of  Virginia,  the  candidates  of  the  Whig  party,  were  elected  President 


154  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  Vice- President.  General  Harrison  did  not  long  survive  his  in- 
auguration. He  died  on  the  4th  of  April,  1841,  and  was  succeeded 
by  John  Tyler,  the  Vice-President.  The  Whigs  were  in  favor  of  a 
National  Bank,  and  Congress  passed  several  Acts  chartering  such  an 
institution,  all  of  which  were  vetoed  by  the  President,  whose  views  on 
the  subject  accorded  with  the  principles  of  the  Democratic  party.  In 
consequence  of  these  Acts,  he  was  abandoned  by  the  party  which  had 
elected  him,  and  was  supported  by  the  Democracy,  with  which  he 
thenceforth  identified  himself.  During  Mr.  Tyler's  term,  the  question 
of  the  northwestern  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  British 
America  was  settled  by  a  treaty,  which  was  ratified  by  the  Senate  on 
the  20th  of  August,  1842.  A  more  real  service  was  rendered,  how- 
ever, by  the  measures  resulting  in  the  annexation  of  the  Republic.of 
Texas  to  the  United  States,  which  were  carried  to  a  successful  issue 
in  spite  of  a  determined  opposition  by  the  Whig  party.  The  admis- 
sion of  Texas  as  a  State  of  the  Union,  occurred  on  the  1st  of  March, 
1845.  It  was  a  most  important  step,  as  it  not  only  increased  the  ter- 
ritory of  the  Republic,  but  forever  prevented  Great  Britain  from 
acquiring  a  foothold  on  the  Gulf  Coast  of  America.  Mr.  Tyler's  last 
official  act  was  to  approve  the  admission  of  the  States  of  Florida  and 
Iowa  into  the  Union,  on  the  3d  of  March,  1845. 

In  1844,  James  K.  Polk,  of  Tennessee,  was  elected  President,  with 
George  M.  Dallas,  of  Pennsylvania,  as  Vice-President.  This  was  a 
Democratic  triumph.  When  Mr.  Polk  came  into  office,  the  country 
was  involved  in  a  dispute  with  the  Republic  of  Mexico  respecting  the 
boundary  between  the  State  of  Texas  and  Mexico.  This  dispute  re- 
sulted in  hostilities  between  the  two  countries,  which  began  on  the 
Rio  Grande,  between  the  armies  of  Generals  Taylor  and  Arista,  in 
April,  1846.  General  Taylor  defeated  the  Mexican  army  on  the  Rio 
Grande,  at  Palo  Alto,  May  8th,  1846,  and  at  Resaca  de  1^  Palma,  the 
next  day.  On  being  reenforced,  he  drove  the  Mexicans  into  the  inte- 
rior, capturing  their  strong  city  of  Monterey,  and  defeating  their  best 
army,  under  their  President  himself,  at  Buena  Vista  (Feb.  22,  1847). 

Taylor's  operations  were  now  brought  to  a  close  in  consequence  of 
troops  being  taken  from  him  to  reenforce  General  Scott,  who  was  col- 
lecting his  forces  for  an  expedition  against  the  city  of  Vera  Cruz. 
Scott  landed  before  that  city  on  the  9th  of  March,  1847,  and  captured 
it,  after  a  vigorous  siege,  on  the  29th.  Moving  into  the  interior,  he 
defeated  the  enemy  in  a  series  of  hard  fought  battles  at  Cherubusco, 
Cerro  Gordo,  Chapultepec,  and  Molino  del  Rey,  and  captured  the 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  155 

city  of  Mexico,  which  he  entered  in  triumph  on  the  14th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1847,  and  held  until  the  close  of  the  war. 

In  1846,  General  Stephen  Kearney  conquered  New  Mexico,  while 
Commodore  Stockton  and  Colonel  Fremont  drove  the  enemy  out  of 
and  occupied  California.  Kearney  marched  from  New  Mexico  into 
California  in  January,  1847,  and  on  the  8th  of  February  assumed  the 
office  of  Governor  of  the  territory,  and  proclaimed  its  annexation  to 
the  United  States.  About  the  same  time  Colonel  Doniphan,  with 
1000  Missouri  volunteers,  made  a  forced  march  across  the  Plains,  and 
on  the  28th  of  February  defeated  a  force  of  4000  Mexicans  and  cap- 
tured the  city  of  Chihuahua. 

A  treaty  of  peace  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico  was  signed 
at  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  on  the  2d  of  February,  1848.  Mexico  yielded 
the  boundary  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and  ceded  California  and  New 
Mexico  to  the  United  States,  and  the  latter  Power  agreed  to  pay 
Mexico  the  sum  of  $15,000,000,  and  to  assume  the  debts  due  by 
Mexico  to  American  citizens,  to  the  amount  of  $3,750,000. 

Great  Britain  had  claimed  the  territory  of  Oregon  as  a  part  of 
British  America,  and  our  Government  had  insisted  upon  it  as  a  part 
of  the  common  property  of  the  Republic,  and  had  even  declared  its 
intention  to  go  to  war  with  England  rather  than  be  satisfied  with 
anything  less  than  the  whole  of  Oregon.  Nevertheless,  as  a  measure 
of  peace,  the  administration  of  Mr.  Polk  proposed  to  England  the 
49th  parallel  of  North  latitude  for  a  boundary,  our  original  claim 
having  extended  to  the  line  of  54°  40'.  As  this  compromise  gave  to 
Great  Britain  all  of  Vancouver's  Island  and  the  present  colony  of 
British  Columbia,  it  was  accepted.  Recent  events  have  proved  that 
the  territory  was  worth  fighting  for,  and  that  our  Government  parted 
with  it  too  readily.  Free  trade  ideas  prevailed  during  this  adminis- 
tration to  an  extent  sufficient  to  secure  a  modification  of  the  high 
protective  tariff  of  1846.  In  May,  1848,  Wisconsin  was  admitted 
into  the  Union. 

In  1848,  Zachary  Taylor,  of  Louisiana,  was  elected  President,  and 
Millard  Fillmore,  of  New  York,  Vice-President,  by  the  Whigs.  In 
this  campaign,  the  anti-slavery  party  presented  Martin  Van  Buren  as 
their  candidate  for  the  Presidency.  This  organization  had  grown  by 
degrees  into  considerable  prominence  upon  the  principle  of  opposition 
to  the  extension  of  slavery,  and  its  strength  in  1848  is  shown  by  the 
fact,  that  although  Van  Buren  secured  no  electoral  vote,  he  received 
a  popular  vote  of  291,263. 


156  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  slavery  question  now  presented  itself  again,  this  time  in  a  most 
aggravated  form,  for  both  the  friends  and  enemies  of  that  system  of 
labor  had  become  more  powerful  since  the  temporary  settlement  of 
1820.  A  strong  anti-slavery  party  had  developed  itself  at  the  North, 
which  was  avowedly  determined  to  oppose  the  further  extension  of 
slavery,  and  which  was  believed  in  the  South  to  be  working  for  the 
overthrow  of  that  institution  in  the  States  in  which  it  already  existed. 
The  contest  was  resumed  in  Congress,  in  1846,  while  measures  were 
on  foot  looking  to  peace  with  Mexico,  by  a  proposition  from  a 
Northern  member  that  in  the  territory  which  should  be  acquired  by 
the  war  then  going  on,  there  should  be  neither  slavery  nor  involuntary 
servitude,  except  for  crime.  This  measure,  known  as  the  "  Wilmot 
Proviso,"  passed  the  House  of  Representatives  by  a  large  majority, 
but  the  Senate  adjourned  before  a  vote  could  be  had  upon  it.  The 
next  year  the  House  readopted  the  "  Proviso,"  which  was  rejected  by 
the  Senate.  The  House  then  abandoned  it.  The  measure  was  bit- 
terly assailed  by  the  South,  which  claimed  that  inasmuch  as  it  had 
furnished  the  larger  number  of  the  troops  by  which  the  war  was 
fought  and  the  territory  won,  its  institutions  should  receive  the  same 
encouragement  and  protection  in  the  new  Territory  as  those  of  the 
North.  The  dispute  became  very  bitter,  and  made  the  Presidential 
election  of  1848  one  of  the  most  memorable  in  our  history.  Fresh 
excitement  was  added  to  the  quarrel  by  the  events  in  California. 

Gold  was  discovered  in  that  Territory  in  February,  1848,  and  it  at 
once  attracted  a  large  emigration  from  the  Eastern  States  and  all  parts 
of  the  world.  In  a  few  months  the  population  of  the  Territory  was 
over  100,000.  Early  in  1849,  it  was  found  that  an  organized  gov- 
ernment was  an  absolute  necessity,  and  that  there  were  inhabitants 
enough  to  entitle  the  Territory  to  admission  into  the  Union  as  a 
State;  and  in  September,  1849,  a  Convention  was  held  at  Monterey, 
which  adopted  and  submitted  to  Congress  a  Constitution  prohibiting 
slavery.  The  Southern  States  took  strong  ground  against  the  erection 
of  California  into  a  free  State,  and  even  went  so  far  as  to  threaten  to 
withdraw  from  the  Union  if  slavery  were  interfered  with  any  further 
by  the  Government.  They  held  a  Convention  at  Nashville,  Tennes- 
see, in  1850,  and  pledged  themselves  to  a  united  course  of  action. 
The  tone  assumed  by  them  was  belligerent  and  threatening  in  the  ex- 
treme. They  demanded  in  Congress  not  only  the  rejection  of  the 
free  Constitution  of  California,  but  an  amendment  of  the  Constitution 
of  the  United  States  which  should  equalize  the  power  of  the  Free  and 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  157 

Slave  States  in  the  General  Government.  New  Mexico  now  asked 
admission  into  the  Union,  and  Texas  set  up  a  claim  to  a  western 
boundary  which  included  a  large  part  of  New  Mexico.  These  minor 
questions  very  greatly  complicated  the  main  issue.  The  excitement 
throughout  the  country  was  even  greater  than  that  of  1820,  and 
for  a  while  it  seemed  that  the  Union  would  surely  be  destroyed. 
Finally  a  compromise,  known  as  the  "  Compromise  of  1850,"  was 
proposed  in  the  Senate  by  Henry  Clay,  and  carried  through  Congress 
by  great  exertions  on  the  part  of  the  moderate  men  of  both  sections. 
This  Compromise  admitted  California  as  a  free  State;  erected  Utah 
and  New  Mexico  into  Territories,  leaving  the  question  of  the  exclusion 
of  slavery  to  the  people  thereof  when  they  came  to  form  State  Con- 
stitutions ;  arranged  the  western  boundary  of  Texas ;  abolished  the 
slave  trade  in  the  District  of  Columbia;  and  substituted  a  new  law 
for  the  rendition  of  fugitive  slaves,  in  place  of  the  old  Act,  which  was 
ineffective.  This  Compromise  was  bitterly  opposed  by  the  extreme 
men  of  both  the  North  and  the  South.  The  former  denounced  the 
concessions  to  Texas  in  the  boundary  question,  and  fiercely  assailed 
the  refusal  to  forbid  slavery  in  the  Territories ;  and  the  fugitive  slave 
law  was  not  only  denounced  as  unchristian  and  unconstitutional,  but 
was  opposed  on  the  part  of  the  Free  States  by  a  series  of  prohibitory 
acts  which  the  candid  student  of  history  is  compelled  to  regard  as  as  un- 
lawful as  the  disunion  measures  of  the  pro-slavery  party.  The  South, 
on  the  other  hand,  was  furious  over  the  admission  of  California  as  a 
free  State,  and  the  refusal  of  Congress  to  sanction  and  protect  slavery 
in  the  Territories.  Still,  as  it  was  plain  that  these  measures  embodied 
the  only  settlement  possible  at  the  time,  the  great  body  of  the  nation 
accepted  them  in  good  faith,  and  the  Government  honestly  executed 
the  fugitive  slave  law  in  all  cases  in  which  its  aid  was  invoked,  put- 
ting down  the  resistance  of  mobs  by  force. 

In  the  midst  of  the  struggle  over  the  "Compromise,"  General  Tay- 
lor died  (on  the  9th  of  July,  1850),  and  was  succeeded  by  Millard 
Fillmore,  the  Vice-President,  who  opened  his  administration  with  a 
change  of  Cabinet  ministers.  He  gave  his  hearty  support  to  the 
Compromise  measures,  and  contributed  greatly  towards  securing  their 
passage.  The  principal  events  of  his  term  were,  the  invasion  of 
Cuba  by  Lopez,  in  1851,  which  was  defeated  by  the  Spaniards;  the 
visit  of  Kossuth  to  the  United  States,  in  1851;  the  disputes  with 
England  concerning  the  fisheries,  in  1852,  which  were  satisfactorily 
settled;  and  the  expedition  of  Commodore  Perry  to  Japan,  by  means 


158  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  which  an  important  treaty  was  negotiated  with  the  Japanese  Gov- 
ernment, and  the  ports  of  the  empire  opened  to  the  commerce  of  all 
nations. 

The  slavery  question  entered  largely  into  the  Presidential  campaign 
of  1852,  and  so  greatly  weakened  the  Whig  party  as  to  defeat  it. 
Franklin  Pierce,  of  New  Hampshire,  and  William  R.  King,  of  Ala- 
bama, the  candidates  of  the  Democracy,  were  elected  President  and 
Vice-President  by  handsome  majorities. 

This  administration  is  memorable  for  the  violent  political  contests 
which  prevailed  during  its  term.  It  began  by  settling  a  dispute  with 
Mexico,  by  purchasing  from  it  the  Territory  of  Arizona.  In  1853, 
Jefferson  Davis,  the  Secretary  of  War,  inaugurated  the  surveys  for  a 
railway  to  the  Pacific,  by  sending  out  an  expedition  of  U.  S.  Engineers 
for  that  purpose.  In  December,  1853,  Mr.  Douglas,  the  Senator  from 
Illinois,  introduced  a  bill  organizing  the  Territories  of  Kansas  and 
Nebraska,  lying  west  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  north  of  the  line  of 
36°  30'  N.  latitude,  in  which  region  the  Act  of  1820  had  forever  pro- 
hibited slavery.  This  new  bill  repealed  the  Missouri  Compromise  Act 
of  1820,  and  reopened  the  slavery  question  in  that  region.  The  ad- 
ministration and  the  leaders  of  the  Democratic  party  supported  the 
measure,  which  was  opposed  by  the  great  mass  of  the  people  of  the  free 
States  without  regard  to  party,  and  denounced  by  them  as  a  violation 
of  the  plighted  faith  of  the  nation.  It  was  hotly  debated  in  Congress, 
but  passed  the  Senate  by  a  vote -of  37  to  14,  and  the  House  by  a  vote 
of  113  to  100,  and  at  length  received  the  Executive  approval  on  the 
31st  of  May,  1854.  The  passage  of  this  bill  created  the  most  intense 
excitement  in  the  country.  It  greatly  increased  the  strength  of  the  anti- 
slavery  party,  which  now  began  to  be  known  as  the  Republican  party, 
and  alienated  many  Democrats  from  their  party.  The  Act  left  the  Ter- 
ritories free  to  decide  between  slavery  and  free  labor,  and  thus  opened 
the  way  for  a  long  and  bloody  warfare  within  their  limits ;  the  events 
of  which  will  be  related  in  another  part  of  this  work.  An  effort  was 
made  by  the  administration  to  purchase  Cuba  from  Spain ;  but  that 
Power  declined  to  sell  the  island.  An  expedition  of  filibusters,  under 
General  William  Walker,  succeeded  in  conquering  the  Central  Ameri- 
can State  of  Nicaragua.  Walker  at  once  sent  an  envoy  to  Washing- 
ton, who  was  formally  recognized  by  the  President. 

The  anti-slavery,  or  Republican  party  now  exhibited  its  strength 
by  electing  Mr.  Banks,  of  Massachusetts,  Speaker  of  the  Lower  House 
of  Congress,  and  in  the  Presidential  contest  of  1856,  nominated  John 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  159 

C.  Fremont  as  its  candidate,  and  secured  for  him  114  electoral  votes 
and  a  popular  vote  of  1,341,264.  A  new  element  in  this  contest  was 
the  Know-Nothing,  or  American  party,  which  supported  Mr.  Fillmore 
for  the  Presidency.  It  was  founded  upon  a  principle  of  hostility  to 
the  influence  of  foreigners,  and  especially  of  Roman  Catholics,  in  our 
Government.  Mr.  Fillmore  received  8  electoral  votes,  and  874,534 
popular  votes.  The  election  resulted  in  the  choice  of  the  candidates 
of  the  Democratic  party;  James  Buchanan,  of  Pennsylvania,  was 
elected  President,  and  John  C.  Breckenridge,  of  Kentucky,  Vice- 
President. 

Mr.  Buchanan's  administration  was  entirely  Southern  in  its  sym- 
pathies, and  was  marked  by  a  constant  struggle  in  Congress  and 
throughout  the  country  over  the  slavery  question.  The  struggle  in 
Kansas  went  on  with  great  bitterness  until  the  close  of  his  term,  the 
power  of  the  Government  being  generally  cast  against  the  free  settlers 
of  that  Territory,  who  were  forced  to  take  extraordinary  measures  for 
their  defence.  An  effort  was  made  to  force  a  pro-slavery  Constitution 
upon  the  Territory,  and  it  split  the  Democratic  party  into  two  wings — 
the  larger  of  which,  led  by  Stephen  A.  Douglas,  united  with  the  Re- 
publicans in  opposing  the  Constitution  ;  while  the  smaller,  led  by  the 
extreme  Southern  men  in  Congress,  received  the  aid  of  the  adminis- 
tration, and  secured  the  adoption  of  the  Constitution  by  Congress  after 
a  severe  and  protracted  struggle. 

In  1858,  Minnesota  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State,  and 
was  followed  by  Oregon  in  1859.  In  1857,  the  Mormon  settlers  of 
Utah  Territory  took  up  arms  against  the  authority  of  the  General 
Government.  The  rebellion  continued  for  some  time,  and  a  military 
force  was  sent  against  the  rebels ;  but  the  trouble  was  at  length  quieted 
without  bloodshed. 

In  October,  1859,  John  Brown,  with  a  small  band  of  followers, 
seized  the  United  States  Arsenal  at  Harper's  Ferry,  and  endeavored 
to  incite  the  slaves  of  Virginia  to  revolt  against  their  masters.  He 
and  his  men  were  captured  by  the  United  States  troops,  a  number  of 
them  being  killed  by  the  soldiers  in  the  fight.  The  survivors  were 
turned  over  to  the  authorities  of  the  State  of  Virginia,  by  whom  they 
were  tried,  convicted,  and  hanged.  This  attempt  was  regarded  in  the 
South  as  incontestable  evidence  of  the  determination  of  the  North  to 
destroy  slavery,  while  at  the  North  a  formidable  party  denounced  the 
execution  of  Brown  as  a  murder,  and  by  their  unwise  and  unpatriotic 
course  greatly  strengthened  the  hands  of  the  leaders  of  the  disunion 
movement  in  the  South. 


160  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Presidential  election  of  1860,  turned  mainly  upon  the  question 
of  slavery  in  the  Territories.  The  Democratic  party,  already  weak- 
ened by  the  Kansas  question,  now  finally  split  into  two  fragments. 
The  larger  wing  nominated  Stephen  A.  Douglas,  of  Illinois,  as  their 
candidate.  They  held  that  Congress  had  no  power  either  to  sanction 
or  forbid  slavery  in  the  Territories,  but  that  the  question  could  be 
decided  only  by  the  people  thereof,  who  were  most  interested  in  it. 
The  smaller  wing  chose  John  C.  Breckenridge,  of  Kentucky,  as  their 
candidate,  and  declared  it  to  be  the  express  duty  of  Congress  to  sanc- 
tion and  protect  slavery  in  all  the  Territories  of  the  Republic,  main- 
taining that  the  Constitution  of  its  own  force  carried  slavery  into 
them.  The  Republican  party  nominated  Abraham  Lincoln,  of  Illi- 
nois, as  its  candidate.  This  party  denied  any  intention  to  interfere 
with  the  domestic  institutions  of  any  of  the  States,  but  avowed  its  de- 
termination to  prevent  the  introduction  of  slavery  into  the  Territories 
by  Congressional  legislation,  and  denounced  as  false  the  doctrine  that 
the  Constitution  established  slavery  in  any  part  of  the  Union.  It 
asserted  the  right  of  every  community  to  manage  its  domestic  affairs 
in  its  own  way,  and  denounced  the  invasion  of  Virginia  by  John 
Brown  as  wicked  and  unjustifiable.  A  fourth  party,  known  as  the 
"  Constitutional  Union  Party,"  nominated  John  Bell,  of  Tennessee,  for 
the  Presidency,  and  adopted  the  following  very  vague  and  indefinite 
platform  of  principles :  "  The  Union,  the  Constitution,  and  the  en- 
forcement of  the  laws."  The  contest  was  bitter  beyond  all  precedent. 

"When  the  election  took  place,  the  result  at  the  polls  was  as  follows : 

Popular  vote  for  Lincoln 1,866,452 

"         "      "    Douglas 1,375,157 

"         "      "    Breckenridge  .......  847,953 

"         "      "    Bell 590,631 

The  electoral  vote  was  divided  as  follows  :  For  Lincoln,  180 ;  for 
Breckenridge,  72;  for  Bell,  39;  for  Douglas,  12. 

The  election  of  Mr.  Lincoln  was  seized  upon  by  the  extreme  pro- 
slavery  leaders  as  a  pretext  for  the  withdrawal  of  the  Southern  States 
from  the  Union.  The  Gulf  States  had,  indeed,  during  the  early  part 
of  the  Presidential  contest,  declared  their  deliberate  determination  to 
secede,  in  case  of  the  election  of  a  Republican  President.  Their  peo- 
ple honestly  believed  that  such  a  result  of  the  campaign  would  be 
fatal  to  their  institutions,  inasmuch  as  they  expected  a  Republican 
President  to  destroy  the  institution  of  slavery,  forgetting  in  their  alarm 


THE    UNITED    STATES.  Id 

that  that  official  could  have  no  power  to  harm  them.  The  disunion 
leaders  took  pains  to  deepen  this  vague  fear.  How  well  they  suc- 
ceeded is  shown  by  the  result. 

As  soon  as  the  election  of  Mr.  Lincoln  was  definitely  ascertained, 
the  Legislature  of  South  Carolina  summoned  a  Convention  of  the 
people  of  that  State,  which  met  on  the  17th  of  December,  1860.  This 
Convention  adopted  an  ordinance  of  Secession,  and  withdrew  the  State 
from  the  Union,  on  the  20th  of  December.  The  cause  of  this  action 
was  declared  to  be  as  follows :  "  We  assert  that  fourteen  of  the  States 
have  deliberately  refused  for  years  to  fulfil  their  Constitutional  obli- 
gations, and  we  refer  to  their  own  statutes  for  proof.  ....  In 
many  of  these  States  the  fugitive  is  discharged  from  the  service  of 
labor  claimed,  and  m  none  of  them  has  the  State  government  com- 
plied with  the  stipulations  made  in  the  Constitution 

Thus  the  Constitutional  compact  has  been  deliberately  broken  and 
disregarded  by  the  non-slaveholding  States ;  and  the  consequence  fol- 
lows that  South  Carolina  is  released  from  her  obligation."  Another 
cause  was  declared  to  be,  "  the  election  of  a  man  to  the  high  office  of 
President  of  the  United  States  whose  opinions  and  purposes  are  hostile 
to  slavery."  This  declaration  may  be  regarded  as  embodying  the 
principal  reasons  assigned  by  the  other  States  for  their  action.  The 
secession  of  South  Carolina  was  followed  by  that  of  Mississippi,  Janu- 
ary 9th,  1861,  Florida,  January  10th,  Alabama,  January  llth, 
Georgia,  January  19th,  Louisiana,  January  26th,  and  Texas,  Febru- 
ary 1st.  The  forts,  arsenals,  and  other  public  property  of  the  United 
States  in  these  States  were  seized  by  the  State  authorities,  and  held  by 
their  troops,  except  Fort  Su rater,  in  Charleston  Harbor,  and  Fort 
Pickens,  near  Pensacola,  Florida.  Fort  Su  rater  was  occupied  by 
Major  Robert  Anderson  with  80  men.  Major  Anderson  had  origi- 
nally occupied  Fort  Moultrie,  on  Sullivan's  Island,  but  knowing  the 
purpose  of  the  State  authorities  to  seize  the  public  property  at 
Charleston,  he  evacuated  his  post  on  the  night  of  December  25th, 
1860,  and  threw  himself  with  his  corn-mand  into  Fort  Sumter. 

The  General  Government  was  at  this  time  almost  helpless.  The 
army,  but  16,000  strong,  was  posted  on  the  remote  frontier,  and  the 
available  vessels  of  the  navy  were  nearly  all  in  foreign  waters.  Many 
of  the  most  prominent  officials,  including  several  of  the  Cabinet  Min- 
isters, were  in  open  sympathy  -with  the  seceded  States,  and  the  Presi- 
dent seemed  only  anxious  to  delay  any  definite  action  in  the  matter 
until  the  inauguration  of  his  successor.  His  recommendations  to 
11 


162  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Congress  were  not  equal  to  the  emergency.  He  was  in  favor  of  con- 
ceding everything  but  separate  independence  to  the  South,  not  seeing 
that  the  leaders  of  the  secession  movement  would  accept  nothing  but 
separation,  and  by  his  timidity  lost  the  advantages  which  the  Gov- 
ernment would  have  gained  by  a  bold  and  firm  course.  Still,  he 
refused  to  yield  to  the  pressure  which  was  brought  upon  him  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  the  surrender  of  Fort  Sumter  to  the  State  of  South 
Carolina.  He  also  refused  to  sell  the  fort  to  the  State,  or  to  order 
Anderson  back  to  Fort  Moultrie,  as  he  was  urged  to  do. 

Various  plans  were  proposed  in  Congress  and  by  the  States  for  the 
settlement  of  the  national  troubles,  but  none  were  attended  with  suc- 
cess. A  Border  State  Convention  met  in  Washington  on  the  4th  of 
February,  1861,  for  this  purpose,  but  adjourned,  after  a  session  of 
three  weeks,  without  having  accomplished  anything  of  a  definite 
character.  The  quarrel  waxed  hotter  every  day. 

An  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  Government  to  send  reinforcements 
and  supplies  to  Fort  Sumter  was  resisted  by  the  forces  of  South  Caro- 
lina, and  the  vessel  charged  with  that  duty  was  fired  on,  and  turned 
back.  South'  Carolina,  through  her  Legislature,  declared  that  any 
future  attempt  to  send  aid  to  Fort  Sumter  would  be  regarded  as  an 
act  of  war.  and  would  be  resisted  by  force.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
Legislatures  of  New  York,  Ohio,  and  Massachusetts  pledged  those 
States  to  assist  the  President  with  their  whole  military  force  "  in  put- 
ting down  the  rebellion." 

On  the  4th  of  March,  1861,  Abraham  Lincoln  was  inaugurated 
President  of  the  United  States. 


Here  it  is  deemed  best  to  bring  this  brief  outline  to  a  close.  The 
history  of  the  country  since  March,  1861,  is  well  known  to  every 
reader  of  this  book,  and  the  numerous  histories  of  the  war  which  have 
appeared  since  its  close,  some  of  which  are  to  be  found  in  every  house- 
hold, render  the  further  extension  of  our  narrative  unnecessary. 


PART    II. 
THE  NEW  ENGLAND  STATES. 


MAINE. 

Area, 31,766  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 628,279 

Population  in  1870, 626,915 

MAINE  is  the  most  easterly  of  the  United  States.  It  is  situated 
between  latitude  42°  57'  and  47°  32'  N.,  and  longitude  66°  52'  and 
71°  06'  W.  Its  extreme  length,  from  north  to  south,  is  303  miles, 
and  its  extreme  width  212  miles.  Its  average  length  is  about  200 
miles,  and  its  average  width  about  160  miles.  It  covers  an  area  of 
20,330,240  acres.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  northwest  by 
Canada,  on  the  east  by  New  Brunswick,  on  the  south  and  southeast 
by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the  west  by  New  Hampshire. 

TOPOQRAPHY. 

Beginning  on  the  west  at  Kittery  Point,  and  following  the  general 
coast  line  to  Quoddy  Head,  on  the  east,  the  shore  of  Maine  measures 
about  278  miles ;  but  if  we  follow  its  indentations,  and  include  the 
islands,  the  coast  line  will  measure  2486  miles.  The  coast  is  deeply 
indented  with  numerous  bays  and  inlets,  many  of  which  form  excel- 
lent harbors.  Many  islands  lie  along  the  shore,  some  of  them  of  con- 
siderable size* 

Mount  Desert,  the  principal  island,  is  situated  in  Frenchman's  Bay, 
and  forms  a  part  of  Hancock  county.  It  comprises  an  area  of  60,000 
acres,  and  is  15  miles  long,  and  12  broad.  It  is  traversed  from  west 
to  north  by  a  range  of  thirteen  granite  peaks,  rising  to  a  height  of 
from  1500  to  2300  feet.  Mount  Adam,  or  Mount  Green,  is  the  high- 
est of  these.  Several  beautiful  lakes  lie  high  up  in  these  mountains. 
Some  of  these  are  quite  large,  and  from  nearly  all  of  them  flow  clear, 

165 


166  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

cool  streams,  abounding  in  trout.  The  southeastern  coast  is  formed 
of  huge  cliffs,  several  hundred  feet  high.  A  narrow  bay  enters  the 
island  from  the  south  side,  and  extends  into  the  interior  in  a  northerly 
direction  for  about  seven  miles.  The  scenery  of  the  island  is  surpass- 
ingly grand  and  beautiful,  and  attracts  many  visitors  and  artists. 
Mount  Desert  is  divided  into  3  townships,  Eden,  Tremont,  and 
Mount  Desert.  It  contains  6  small  villages,  9  post-offices,  8  churches, 
and  over  50  schools.  Its  population  is  about  4000.  Shipbuilding 
and  mackerel  fisheries  are  carried  on,  and  there  is  regular  steamboat 
communication  with  Portland  and  Bangor.  The  island  was  discovered 
and  named  by  the  French  near  the  year  1600.  In  1613,  a  small 
French  settlement  was  formed  here,  which  was  broken  up  soon  after 
by  an  expedition  from  Virginia.  It  was  first  permanently  settled  by 
Abraham  Somes,  in  1761.  Twenty  miles  to  the  southward  is  Mount 
Desert  Rock,  with  a  fixed  light,  50  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  other  islands  of  the  State  which  merit  notice  are  Isle  au  Haut, 
at  the  entrance  to  Penobscot  Bay,  Deer,  Long,  and  Fox  islands,  in 
that  bay,  and  the  Isle  of  Shoals,  a  group  belonging  in  part  to  New 
Hampshire. 

The  principal  Bays  are  Passamaquoddy,  Machias,  Pleasant,  French- 
man's, Penobscot,  Muscongus,  Casco,  and  Saco. 

Passamaquoddy  Bay  lies  at  the  southeast  extremity  of  Maine,  and 
separates  the  State  from  the  British  province  of  New  Brunswick.  It 
extends  inland  about  15  miles,  and  is  10  miles  wide.  It  is  irregular 
in  shape,  contains  a  number  of  islands,  affords  numerous  good  harbors, 
and  receives  the  waters  of  the  St.  Croix  River, 

Frenchman's  Bay  extends  inland  about  30  miles.  It  contains 
Mount  Desert  and  several  other  islands,  and  abounds  in  good  harbors, 
which  are  never  closed  by  ice. 

Casco  Bay  does  not  extend  very  far  inland,  but  lies  along  the  coast 
for  a  distance  of  20  miles.  It  contains  nearly  300  islands.  Portland 
harbor  opens  upon  it. 

The  principal  Rivers  are  the  Penobscot,  the  Kennebec,  the  Andro- 
scoggin,  the  Saco,  the  Woolastook,  and  the  Aroostook. 

The  Penobscot  is  the  largest  river  in  the  State.  It  is  formed  by 
itwo.  branches,  the  East  and  the  West,  which  rise  in  northern  Maine, 
and  unite  in  the  upper  part  of  Penobscot  county,  near  the  centre  of 
the  State.  The  general  course  of  the  river  is  south -south  west,  and  it 
flows  into  the  sea  through  Penobscot  Bay.  Its  length  from  its  mouth 
to  the  headwaters  of  its  western  and  larger  branch,  is  about  300  miles, 


MAINE.  167 

but  from  the  junction  of  the  two  branches  to  its  mouth,  the  distance  is 
only  135  miles.  It  meets  the  tide  water  at  Bangor,  60  miles  from  the 
sea.  At  this  point  the  tides  rise  to  a  height  of  17  feet.  The  river 
is  navigable  to  Bangor  for  vessels  of  all  classes,  and  for  small  steamers 
above  that  place.  It  receives  through  the  West  branch  the  waters  of 
Chcsuncook  and  Pemadumcook  lakes,  and  through  the  East  branch 
those  of  the  Seboois  lakes.  Its  upper  part  affords  valuable  water 
power.  There  are  a  number  of  villages  and  towns  on  the  river. 
Bangor  is  the  only  city  on  its  banks. 

The  Kennebec  River  rises  in  Moosehead  Lake,  in  Somerset  county, 
Maine,  and  flows  southward  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Its  length  is 
150  miles,  and  as  its  total  descent  in  this  distance  is  over  1000  feet, 
it  affords  most  excellent  water  power.  It  is  navigable  for  sloops  to 
Hallowell,  40  miles,  and  for  all  vessels  to  Bath,  1 2  miles  from  the 
sea.  It  is  closed  by  ice  early  in  December,  and  remains  frozen  until 
early  in  April.  Bath,  Hallowell,  Augusta,  Waterville,  and  Norridge- 
wock  are  the  principal  towns  on  its  shores.  The  Androscoggin  is  a 
tributary  of  the  Kennebec.  It  rises  in  Coos  county,  New  Hampshire, 
and  empties  into  the  Kennebec  20  miles  from  the  sea.  It  is  140 
miles  long. 

The  Saco  River  rises  among  the  White  Mountains,  in  Coos  county, 
New  Hampshire,  and  flowing  southeasterly  through  Maine,  empties 
into  the  Atlantic  near  the  northeast  corner  of  York  county.  It'  is 
broken  in  several  places  by  considerable  falls,  which  afford  fine  water 
power,  and  is  subject  to  sudden  and  dangerous  freshets.  The  last 
falls  are  only  4  miles  from  the  sea.  Saco,  Biddeford,  and  Hollis  are 
its  principal  towns. 

The  Woolastook  and  Aroostook  drain  the  northern  part  of  the  State, 
and  flow  into  the  St.  John,  a  river  of  New  Brunswick. 

The  State  is  well  supplied  with  rivers  and  other  streams,  which  not 
only  afford  fine  water  power,  but  furnish  a  means  of  floating  vast 
quantities  of  lumber  from  the  interior  to  the  coast. 

A  number  of  Lakes  are  scattered  through  Maine,  some  of  which  are 
very  beautiful.  The  principal  are  Umbagog,  Sebec,  Chesuncook, 
Schoodic,  Baskahegan,  Long,  Portage,  Eagle,  Madawaska,  Millikonet/ 
and  Sebago. 

Moosehead  Lake  is  the  largest  in  the  State.  It  is  situated  between 
Somerset  and  Piscataquis  counties,  and  is  very  irregular  in  shape.  It 
is  about  35  miles  long,  and  ten  miles  across  at  its  widest  point.  The 
Svaters  are  very  deep,  and  abound  in  trout.  The  scenery  is  wild  am} 


lf>8  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

beautiful.  On  the  west  side  Mount  Ki'neo  overhangs  the  water  at  a 
height  of  600  feet,  and  affords  a  view  of  great  but  wild  beauty.  An 
hotel  has  been  erected  about  midway,  for  the  accommodation  of 
travellers.  Numerous  islands  stud  the  lake,  which  is  navigated  by 
steamers  engaged  in  towing  lumber  to  the  Kennebec  River,  which' 
forms  the  outlet. 

The  surface  of  the  State  is  generally  hilly  and  diversified.  To- 
•\vards  the  coast  it  is  level,  but  rises  towards  the  interior.  A  chain  of 
detached  mountains,  supposed  to  be  an  extension  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains of  New  Hampshire,  crosses  the  State  from  west  to  northeast, 
terminating  in  Mars  Hill  on  the  border  of  New  Brunswick.  These 
peaks  rise  to  a  considerable  elevation,  and  are  very  beautiful. 

Mount  KataJidin,  5385  feet  high,  is  the  best  known,  as  well  as  the 
most  picturesque.  It  is  situated  in  the  eastern  part  of  Piscataquis 
county,  and  is  frequently  visited  by  artists  and  the  more  daring 
tourists.  The  other  peaks  are  the  Saddleback,  Bigelow,  Abraham, 
North  and  South  Russell,  and  the  Haystack. 

The  Forests  of  Maine  furnish  an  immense  amount  of  valuable  lum- 
ber, and  large  numbers  of  hardy  men  are  employed  in  cutting  and 
floating  the  logs  down  the  streams.  The  great  forests  lie  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  State,  around  the  sources  of  the  Kennebec,  Penobscot, 
Aroostook,  and  Woolastook  rivers.  Mr.  Charles  Lanman  thus 
pleasantly  describes  them : 

"  Their  extent  can  only  be  realized  by  fixing  the  mind  upon  the 
whole  northern  half  of  the  State,  which  they  cover  with  their  sombre 
green,  and  by  remembering  the  fact  that  no  less  than  four  splendid 
rivers  have  their  birth  in  this  great  wilderness — the  St.  Croix,  the 
Penobscot,  the  Kennebec,  and  the  Androscoggin.  According  to  such 
figures  as  we  have  been  able  to  collect,  the  number  of  saw-mills  and 
other  lumbering  machines  in  operation  on  the  above  rivers,  just  before 
the  rebellion,  was  nearly  900,  the  number  of  men  employed  about 
17,000,  and  of  horses  and  oxen  perhaps  10,000;  while  the  towns 
which  are,  to  a  great  extent,  supported  by  the  lumbering  business  are 
Calais,  Bangor,  Augusta,  and  Brunswick,  as  well  as  Portland.  The 
predominating  tree  in  the  wilderness  under  consideration,  as  is  the 
case  in  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin,  is  the  white  pine,  but  the  hemlock, 
the  fir,  and  the  spruce  are  also  abundant  in  all  its  borders.  It  is  said 
that  fifty  years  ago  specimens  of  the  pine  were  found  in  Maine  which 
attained  the  height  of  more  than  200  feet,  hut  in  these  times  it  is  but 
seldom  that  we  find  a  tree  exceeding  150  feet  in  length.  The  grand 


MAINE. 


169 


THE    PINE    FORESTS    OF    MAINE. 

old  monarchs  of  the  land  would  seem  to  have  perished  with  grief  on 
beholding  the  ravages  of  man.  But  there  is  an  aristocracy  existing 
in  these  woods  at  the  present  day,  for  it  has  been  observed  that  there 
are  different  classes  of  trees — families  of  nobility  clustering  together 
in  one  place — while  the  more  plebeian  varieties  congregate  in  com- 
munities by  themselves.  Were  it  not  for  the  changing  seasons  and 
its  living  creatures,  the  monotony  of  this  forest  scenery  would  be  well 
nigh  unbearable;  but  summer  fills  every  sunny  nook  with  its  bright 
flowers,  and  winter  scatters  everywhere  the  fantastic  creations  of  the 
frost  and  snow.  It  is  in  these  solitudes  that  the  bold  and  hardy  Pen- 
obscot  Indian  hunter  tracks  the  moose  and  the  deer,  fights  the  bear 
in  his  den,  decoys  the  gray  wolf,  and  sets  his  traps  for  the  wild  cat 


170  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  mink,  the  marten,  the  sable,  and  the  beaver ;  and  if,  in  the  most 
genial  seasons,  there  should  be  found  a  scarcity  of  birds,  you  can 
never  fail  to  hear  the  plaintive  whistle  of  the  Canada  bird,  or  musci- 
capa  of  scientific  dreamers.  In  the  Valley  of  the  Potomac  this 
favorite  bird  of  ours  is  the  very  first  harbinger  of  spring,  coming  from 
the  South  even  before  the  blue-bird ;  and  when  heard  there  late  in 
autumn,  you  may  be  sure  that  winter  has  asserted  his  empire  on  the 
Northern  frontiers.  We  have  heard  it  in  the  pine  forests  of  Florida, 
among  the  mountains  of  Tennessee,  along  the  glorious  rivers  of  New 
Brunswick,  Canada,  and  a  part  of  Labrador,  but  never  with  more 
pleasure  than  in  the  forests  of  Maine.  When  away  from  home,  it  al- 
ways carries  us  back  in  fancy  to  the  region  where  our  lot  is  cast,  and 
to  our  friends ;  and  when  at  home  it  reminds  us  of  far-off  places  and 
other  friends  linked  with  happy  recollections.  Its  whole  life,  it 
seems  to  us,  is  devoted  to  singing,  in  a  kind  of  monotone,  about  the 
joys  of  the  wilderness. 

"  Of  permanent  human  inhabitants,  the  forests  of  Maine  can  boast 
of  but  a  small  supply;  but  for  about  nine  months  in  the  year  the 
hardy  lumbermen,  consisting  of  explorers  and  choppers,  of  swampers, 
or  road-cutters,  and  teamsters,  make  their  dim,  interminable  aisles 
alive  and  cheery  with  their  presence  and  manifold  employments.  In 
the  autumn,  small  parties,  equipped  like  trappers,  go  up  the  rivers  in 
canoes  and  locate  the  lands  which  are  to  be  grappled  with  in  winter ; 
and  when  winter  comes,  the  great  majority,  with  their  oxen  and  axes, 
their  salt  pork  and  flour,  migrate  to  the  selected  grounds,  and,  after 
housing  themselves  and  their  cattle  in  cabins  half  covered  with  snow, 
they  proceed  to  the  work  of  extermination  ;  and  when  the  spring  ar- 
rives, down  to  the  tributary  streams  do  they  drag  their  logs ;  and 
when  the  first  great  thaw  arrives,  away  they  go  down  the  larger 
rivers,  driving  the  produce  of  their  toil  through  lakes  and  lakelets, 
and  over  waterfalls,  with  many  a  wild  and  wayward  shout,  until  they 
reach  the  booms  where  they  would  be ;  and  then  for  home  and  their 
happy  families  nearer  the  sea.  All  this  for  money?  Most  true.  But 
where  will  you  find  better  specimens  of  true  manhood  than  among 
these  lumbermen  ?  And  as  for  poetry  and  romance,  where  can  we 
find  their  equal  among  the  laborers  for  hire  in  any  land  but  ours? 
Fancy  the  heart-bursts  of  true  patriotism,  and  the  wild  stories  told  by 
the  side  of  their  watch-fires,  the  hoot  of  the  great  white  owl  at  mid- 
night in  those  dim  solitudes,  the  white  moonlight  on  the  still  whiter 
snow,  the  ringing  cadences  of  the  frost,  the  wolf  prowling  for  food 


MAINE.  171 

around  the  sleeping  camps,  the  cave-like  forest  pictured  against  the 
cold  blue  sky,  the  terrible  storms  of  sleet  and  hail,  and  then  the 
thousand  dreams  of  wives  and  children  sleeping  in  their  distant  and 
peaceful  homes. 

"  The  continuousness  of  the  Maine  woods,  taken  in  connection  with 
their  extent,  is  one  of  their  most  impressive  features.  Unless  there 
were  something  to  relieve  their  monotony,  a  sensitive  man  could 
never  have  journeyed  from  one  extremity  to  another  without  becom- 
ing a  personification  of  gloom ;  but  behold  with  what  exquisite  taste 
and  skill  nature  interposes  her  relief!  She  plants  old  Moosehead 
near  the  centre  of  the  great  forest,  and  scatters  a  thousand  smaller 
gems  of  purest  water  on  every  side ;  bids  a  few  mountain  peaks  rise 
up  as  watch-towers  against  the  northern  sky;  sends  the  most  beautiful 
rivers  like  flashes  of  light  in  every  direction  singing  to  the  sea ;  and 
in  a  few  localities  spreads  out  those  wonderful  fields  which  have  been 
denominated  'oceans  of  moss/  sometimes  several  feet  in  thickness,  and 
in  one  instance  covering  a  space  of  many  miles.  But  more  than  this : 
around  the  lakes  and  along  the  water-courses  are  permitted  to  grow 
as  great  a  variety  of  the  more  delicate  and  graceful  trees  as  the  climate 
will  allow,  with  shrubs  and  vines,  and  flowers  innumerable.  All  this 
is  the  workmanship  of  nature;  but  it  is  man  who  marks  the  earth 
with  ruin,  and,  not  content  with  robbing  the  old  forests  of  their  giant 
treasures,  he  sometimes  sets  them  on  fire  for  his  amusement,  or  by 
accident,  and  thus  come  into  existence  the  desolate  burnt  districts  to 
take  the  places  of  trees  once  valuable,  and  grand,  and  beautiful. 

"  The  last  object  that  the  wide-awake  tourist  beholds  on  leaving 
the  great  wilderness  of  Maine,  is  Mount  Katahdin  ;  and  that  reminds 
us  of  the  mountain  forests  of  the  Northern  and  Southern  States.  The 
representative  peaks  of  the  North  are  Katahdin,  Mount  Washington, 
the  Camel's  Hump,  Tahawus,  and  High  Peak ;  and  around  all  these 
are  to  be  found  the  hemlock  and  spruce,  the  cedar  and  fir,  the  maple, 
the  ash,  the  elm,  and  the  birch,  in  such  numbers,  and  variety,  and 
beauty  as  to  bewilder  the  mind.  The  declivities  up  which  travellers 
climb  oftentimes  frown  upon  them  as  if  to  warn  them  of  coming  dan- 
ger, but  the  tough  and  rugged  trees  plant  their  roots  in  the  rocky 
fissures  and  hold  on  with  heroic  fortitude ;  nor  do  they  cease  their 
persevering  efforts,  while  apparently  changing  their  places  at  each 
zone,  until,  robbed  of  their  luxuriance  and  reduced  to  mere  bushes  by 
the  savage  winds  and  by  the  cold,  they  peep  out  from  their  hiding 
places  only  to  behold  the  stupendous  fields  of  granite  desolation,  thou- 


172 


THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


A  LUMBERMAN'S  CAMP  IN  THE  WOODS  OF  MAINE. 

sands  of  feet  above  the  sea,  shrouded  in  fogs,  or  bounded  by  the  sea. 
Inaccessible,  for  the  most  part,  as  are  these  Northern  forests,  the  en- 
terprise of  man  has  been  such  as  to  penetrate  their  hidden  depths  for 
his  advantage,  and  plunder  them  of  their  wealth.  In  Maine,  selfish 
man  robs  them  of  their  stately  leaders ;  in  New  Hampshire,  he  builds 
fairy-like  palaces,  and  invites  the  world  to  come  there  and  be  happy; 
in  Vermont,  he  gashes  the  maple  trees  and  compels  them  to  yield  up, 
for  his  enjoyment,  the  sweetness  of  their  lives ;  and  in  New  York  he 
hammers  out  of  their  mountain  sides,  in  their  lonely  retreats,  the 
valued  iron  ore,  and  meanly  strips  the  hemlock  of  its  shaggy  bark, 
and  leaves  it  to  perish  ingloriously  upon  the  hills." 


MAINE.  173 

MINERALS. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Maine  are  limited.  Copper  pyrites,  lead, 
and  manganese  are  found  in  small  quantities,  but  iron,  lime,  and  a 
fine  granite  are  plentiful.  The  principal  iron  deposit  occurs  on  the 
Aroostook  River,  about  50  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  the  country 
along  the  west  branch  of  the  Penobscot  furnishes  a  limited  quantity 
of  an  excellent  marble.  A  fine  quality  of  slate  is  found  in  the  region 
between  the  sources  of  the  Kennebec  and  St.  John  rivers.  The 
granite  of  which  the  Treasury  Extension  in  Washington  City  is  built, 
was  brought  from  the  coast  of  Maine. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  Maine  is  considered  healthy,  in  spite  of  the  extreme 
northeastern  situation  of  the  State,  because  it  is  less  subject  than  that 
of  the  other  New  England  States  to  sudden  and  violent  changes.  The 
winters  are  severe  and  long.  The  mercury  sometimes  falls  to  20  or 
30  degrees  below  zero,  but  for  the  greater  part  of  the  season  there  is 
a  uniform  temperature  averaging  about  18°.  The  summers,  though 
short,  are  warm.  The  thermometer  has  been  known  to  indicate  a 
heat  of  100°,  but  the  average  temperature  is  about  60°.  The  snow 
lies  on  the  ground  from  3  to  5  months,  and  the  season  of  vegetation 
lasts  scarcely  4  months.  The  spring  and  early  summer  are  rendered 
unpleasant  by  the  cold  northeast  winds,  which  sweep  down  from  the 
ice-fields  of  the  Atlantic. 

SOIL  AND   PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  is  not  uniform.  Between  the  Kennebec  and  Penobscot, 
the  lands  are  generally  good  and  productive,  and  the  same  may  be 
said  of  the  valley  of  the  St.  John  and  the  country  watered  by  some 
of  the  lesser  rivers.  The  lands  in  the  mountainous  districts  and  along 
the  coast  are  for  the  most  part  poor,  and  requife  laborious  culture. 

In  1869,  there  were  2,704,133  acres  of  improved  lands,  and 
2,996,622  acres  of  unimproved  lands  in  the  State.  Its  agricultural 
wealth  in  the  same  year  may  be  stated  as  follows : 

Cash  value  of  farms, -    ...  $80,000,000 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery,  $3,400,000 

dumber  of  horses,       71,110 

44           asses  and  mules, 168 


114  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Number  of  milch  cows, 190,110 

other  cattle, 230,110 

sheep, • 501,210 

swine, 65,340 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $19,437,538 

Bushels  of  wheat, 248,000 

rye, 158,000 

Indian  corn, 1,450,000 

oats, 3,200,000 

peas  and  beans, .  346,915 

"             Irish  potatoes, 7,500,000 

"        .    barley. 750,000 

"             buckwheat, 350,000 

"             clover-seed,    .    .    .    .     ...    .    .  50,000 

Pounds  of  wool,       1,495,063 

butter, 11,687,781 

"            cheese, 1,799,862 

hops,       ,  102,987 

flax, 17,081 

maple  sugar, 306,742 

beeswax  and  honey,    ......  323,454 

Tons  of  hay, 1,050,000 

Value  of  orchard  products, $501,767 

market  garden  products, $194,006 

home  made  manufactures,     ....  $490,787 

"         slaughtered  animals,      ......  $2,780,179 


COMMERCE. 

The  staple  export  of  Maine  is  lumber.  The  coast  offers  the  best  in- 
ducements for  commerce  of  any  State  in  the  Union.  It  is  so  thickly 
studded  with  bays  and  navigable  rivers  that  vessels  can  find  an  ex- 
cellent harbor  at  any  point  along  its  whole  length.  Shipbuilding  is 
carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent.  The  commercial  returns  for  the 
year  1860  were  as  follows : 

Value  of  lumber  produced  during  the  year,   .    .    $6,784,981 
Product  of  the  fisheries, 1,050,755 

Besides  these,  large  quantities  of  marble,  granite,  lime,  and  ice  are 
produced,  of  which  we  have  no  statistics.  The  tonnage  owned  in  the 
State  in  1863  was  774,040  tons. 

In  1863,  the  total  foreign  imports  were  $3,911,468,  and  the  exports 
57,01 6,342.  In  the  same  year,  only  99  vessels  were  builfc  in  this 
State,  which  in  1853  built  351  of  all  classes. 


MAINE.  175 


MANUFACTURES. 

According  to  the  census  of  1860,  there  were  in  that  year  3532  es- 
tablishments in  Maine  devoted  to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the 
mechanic  arts.  They  employed  39,710  hands,  possessed  a  capital  of 
$22,000,000,  consumed  raw  material  to  the  amount  of  $20,861,452 
(including  fuel),  and  produced  goods  worth  $36,075,498.  Of  these 
establishments,  19  were  cotton  manufactories,  employing  1908  male 
and  4342  female  hands,  consuming  annually  $3,000,000  worth  of  raw 
material,  paying  annually  $1,244,928  for  labor,  and  producing 
§6,636,623  worth  of  goods;  and  61  were  woollen  mills,  with  a  capital 
of  $989,400,  employing  604  male  and  499  female  hands,  consuming 
$1,047,496  worth  of  raw  material,  paying  $277,440  for  labor,  and 
producing  goods  worth  $1,674,800.  There  were  $2,011,034  worth 
of  leather ;  5300  tons  of  rolled  iron,  worth  $332,000;  $681,295  worth 
of  steam  engines  and  machinery;  $339,180  worth  of  agricultural  im- 
plements; $1,400,000  worth  of  flour  ;  and  $36,000  worth  of  malt  and 
$142,000  worth  of  spirituous  liquors  produced  during  the  same  year. 
The  manufacturing  interest  of  Maine  has  greatly  increased  since  1860. 
In  1868,  the  capital  invested  in  manufactures  amounted  to  $40,- 
000,000,  and  the  animal  value  of  fabrics  produced  to  $81,287,695. 
The  water-power  of  the  State  is  immense,  and  holds  out  the  best  in- 
ducements to  manufacturers. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  State  is  making  steady  progress  in  internal  improvements.  In 
1860,  there  were  14  railroads  in  Maine,  having  an  aggregate  length 
in  the  State  of  472  miles,  which  had  been  constructed  at  a  cost  of 
$16,576,385.  The  Grand  Trunk,  which  extends  from  Portland, 
through  New  Hampshire  and  Vermont  to  Quebec  and  Montreal  in 
Canada,  passes  through  Maine  for  but  a  short  distance.  It  is  a  first- 
class  road,  in  respect  to  the  amount  of  business  done  by  it.  The 
Maine  Central  is  138  miles  long,  and  extends  from  Portland  to  Ban- 
gor,  passing  through  Auburn  and  Waterville.  The  Portland  and 
Kennebec,  extending  from  Portland  to  Skowhegan,  through  Rich- 
mond, Gardiner  and  Augusta,  is  100  miles  long.  There  are  other 
thriving  lines  in  the  State,  one  of  which  (the  Portland,  Saco,  and 
Portsmouth)  connects  Portland  with  Portsmouth,  N.  H. 

The  only  canal  in  the  State  is  the  Cumberland- Oxford,  uniting 


H6  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Portland  with  Scbago,  Brandy,  and  Long  Ponds.  It  is  20  miles 
long,  and  lias  26  locks.  Together  with  the  Songo  River  improve- 
ments, it  forms  a  navigable  line  of  50  miles,  constructed  at  a  cost  of 
$50,000.  , 

EDUCATION. 

% 

Maine  has  a  permanent  school  fund,  drawn  from  the  sale  of  lands 
donated  for  that  purpose  by  the  State.  Besides  this,  the  banks  are 
taxed  one-half  of  one  per  cent,  on  their  capital,  and  the  towns  are 
assessed  at  the  rate  of  40  cents  per  capita,  for  educational  purposes. 
In  1860,  Maine  had  2  colleges  and  337  students,  110  academies  and 
other  schools,  with  8273  pupils,  and  4376  public  schools  with  186,717 
pupils.  In  the  same  year,  the  whole  number  of  pupils,  between  the 
ages  of  4  and  21  years,  at  all  the  schools  in  the  State,  was  244,920. 
In  1868,  this  number  had  been  reduced  to  225,290,  a  falling  off  due 
to  the  actual  decrease  of  children  in  the  State.  In  1850,  the  propor- 
tion of  minors  in  the  State  was  49  per  cent,  of  the  whole  population, 
but  in  1860  it  was  only  36  per  cent.  This,  too,  in  spite  of  the  fact 
that  the  population  of  Maine  has  steadily  grown  larger.  It  is  doubt- 
less due  to  the  fact  that  children  are  not  now  as  much  desired  as  in 
the  better  days  of  the  community.  *  In  1868,  the  number  of  schools 
in  the  State  was  3782. 

A  writer  in  the  Annual  Cyclopaedia  for  1867,  says :  "  The  perma- 
nent school  fund  amounts  to  $245,121.23,  the  income  of  which  for 
the  past  year  is  $13,244.14.  The  receipts  from  the  bank  tax  are 
rapidly  falling  off,  being  but  $4475.  The  people  are  determined,  how- 
ever, that  the  schools  shall  not  suffer.  They  have  raised,  by  direct 
taxation,  the  sum  of  $518,292.97,  an  average  of  $2.28  a  scholar,  and 
built  seventy-nine  new  school-houses,  at  a  cost  of  $323,581.13.  Add 
to  this  the  sum  of  $15,316.93,  contributed  to  prolong  public  schools, 
with  $40,614.33,  paid  for  private  schools  and  academies,  and  $6,428.25 
paid  out  of  the  State  for  the  same  purposes,  making  an  aggregate  ex- 
penditure for  schools  of  $935,131.75,  and  you  have  abundant  proof 
that  the  burdens  and  discouragements  of  the  times  are  not  allowed  to 
diminish  the  interest  of  the  people  in  common  school  education. 
There  are  also  two  Normal  Schools,  both  of  which  are  in  a  flourishing 
condition,  and  are  liberally  sustained. 

"The  State  has  chartered  a  College  of  Agricultural  and  Mechanic 

*  Appleton's  Cyclopaedia,  1868. 


MAINE.  17T 

Arts,  and  commenced  the  erection  of  suitable  buildings  for  its  uses. 
....  The  Reform  School  has  entered  upon  a  course  of  unusual  pros- 
perity." 

In  1870,  there  were  3,334  libraries,  containing  a  total  of  984,510 
volumes.  There  were  400  public  libraries,  comprising  500,000  vols. 

In  the  same  year,  there  were  65  newspapers  and  periodicals  pub- 
lished in  the  State.  These  consisted  of  7  daily,  1  tri-weekly,  and  47 
weekly  political  papers,  3  weekly  religious  papers,  and  10  journals  of 
a  miscellaneous  character.  These  had  an  aggregate  annual  circulation 
of  9,867,680  copies. 

PUBLIC   INSTITUTIONS. 

The  public  institutions  of  Maine,  are  the  State  Prison,  at  Thomas- 
ton,  the  Insane  Asylum,  at  Augusta,  and  the  State  Reform  School,  at 
Cape  Elizabeth.  The  State  Prison  was  much  enlarged  and  improved 
in  1867.  It  is  not  adequate  to  the  necessities  of  the  community,  how- 
ever, and  in  1867,  was  so  overcrowded  that  its  earnings  fell  $7000 
short  of  its  expenditures.  The  number  of  prisoners  in  1866  was  135, 
against  78  in  1865.  The  number  of  inmates  in  the  Insane  Asylum 
in  1867  was  303 — 144  men  and  159  women.  The  institution  is  well 
supported  by  the  State,  and  has  received  several  endowments.  The 
State  Reform  School,  in  1870,  contained  254  inmates,  of  whom  71 
we  recommitted  during  the  year.  The  children,  upon  being  admitted 
to  this  school,  are  employed  on  the  farm  or  in  the  work-shops.  They 
are  kindly  treated,  and,  as  a  general  rule,  a  great  change  takes  place 
for  the  better  in  their  morals  a  few  months  after  their  commitment. 
The  actual  cost  of  the  school  to  the  State  for  1868,  was  about  $13,945, 
the  earnings  of  the  boys  making  up  the  remainder  of  the  expenses. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  Maine  was  $5,200,853, 
and  the  number  of  churches,  1104. 

FINANCES. 

The  public  debt  of  the  State  on  the  31st  of  December  ,  1870,  was 
$7,067,000,  and  is  due  in  1871,  1883,  and   1889.     The  amount  paid 
off  in  1870  was  $33,000.     The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal 
12 


178  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

year  were  $4,924,164.12,  and  the  expenses  of  the  State  $5,041,846.64. 
On  January  1st,  1870,  there  was  a  cash  balance  in  the  Treasury  of 
$235,930.63.  On  the  1st  of  October,  1868,  there  were  61  National 
banks  doing  business  in  the  State,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of 
$9,085,000. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  the  State  was  adopted  in  1820.  Every 
adult  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  not  a  criminal,  is  entitled  to 
a  vote  in  the  elections. 

The  Government  of  the  State  consists  of  a  Legislature,  comprising 
a  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives,  and  a  Governor,  all  chosen  by 
the  people.  The  Governor  is  elected  annually,  and  is  assisted-in  his 
executive  duties  by  a  Council  of  seven  members,  elected  on  joint  ballot 
by  the  houses  of  the  Legislature.  The  Senate  consists  of  31  mem- 
bers, and  the  House  of  Representatives  of  151  members,  all  chosen 
annually  by  the  people,  on  the  second  Monday  in  September.  The 
Legislature  meets  at  Augusta,  on  the  first  Wednesday  in  January  in 
each  year.  The  chief  executive  officers  are  the  Secretary  of  State  and 
the  State  Treasurer,  both  chosen  by  the  joint  ballot  of  the  Legislature. 

There  is  a  probate  court  with  a  judge  and  register  in  each  county, 
and  municipal  and  police  courts  in  the  several  cities.  Cases  originat- 
ing within  the  jurisdiction  of  these  bodies  are  tried  before  them.  The 
Supreme  Judicial  Court  of  the  State  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and 
seven  Associate  Justices,  an  Attorney  General,  and  a  Reporter  of  De- 
cisions. Courts  are  held  in  three  districts,  for  the  purpose  of  hearing 
and  determining  cases  brought  before  them.  The  Court  for  the  Eas- 
tern district  sits  at  Bangor,  that  for  the  Middle  district  at  Augusta, 
and  that  for  the  Western  district  at  Portland.  The  income  of  the 
State  is  derived  chiefly  from  direct  taxes,  sales  of  land,  and  a  tax  on 
the  banks.  The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Augusta. 

For  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  16  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Maine  was  first  visited  in  1602  by  Gosnold,  who  was  followed  in 
1603  by  Martin  Pring.  A  French  expedition,  under  Des  Monts, 
passed  the  winter  of  1604  at  the  present  site  of  Calais,  on  the  St. 
Croix.  Des  Monts  took  possession  of  the  region  of  the  Kennebec  the 
next  spring,  and  was  granted  a  patent  for  it  by  the  French  King. 
The  province  was  visited  by  Captain  George  Weymouth,  in  1605, 


MAINE.  179 

and  in  1607  the  first  colony  was  established  by  the  Plymouth  Com- 
pany. This  settlement  was  abandoned  in  one  year.  A  French  colony 
was  sent  out  in  1613,  by  Madame  de  Guercheville,  who  had  pur- 
chased the  patent  of  Des  Monts,  and  planted  on  Mount  Desert  Island 
for  missionary  purposes.  This  settlement  was  broken  up  by  an  expe- 
dition from  Virginia.  In  1614,  the  coast  was  thoroughly  explored 
by  Captain  John  Smith,  who  published  an  account  of  it  on  his  return 
to  England.  The  Plymouth  Company  obtained  a  renewal  of  their 
charter  from  James  I.,  in  1620,  and,  as  the  region  granted  them  in- 
cluded the  present  State  of  Massachusetts,  bitterly  opposed  the  forma- 
tion of  settlements  by  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth  and  Salem,  but  without 
effect.  In  1621,  William  Alexander,  who  subsequently  became  Earl 
of  Stirling,  purchased  from  the  Company  the  territory  east  of  the  St. 
Croix  River;  which  stream,  until  this  day,  forms  the  eastern  boun- 
dary of  Maine.  The  next  year,  Monhegan  was  settled  by  emigrants 
from  Great  Britain.  Saco  was  settled  in  1623.  These  settlements 
prospered  even  better  than  their  founders  had  ventured  to  hope.  In 
1629,  the  Plymouth  Company  established  the  western  boundary  of 
Maine,  by  selling  to  John  Mason  -the  territory  "  lying  between  the 
Merrimack  and  Piscataqua  rivers,"  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of 
New  Hampshire.  In  1635,  the  Company  surrendered  its  charter  to 
the  king,  and  divided  its  territory  among  its  members.  The  country 
between  the  Piscataquis  and  the  Kennebec  was  assigned  to  Sir  Fer- 
dinando  Gorges,  who,  in  1639,  was  confirmed  in  his  possession  by  a 
formal  charter  from  Charles  I.,  who  called  the  territory  the  Province 
of  Maine.  Gorges  was  also  appointed  Governor-General  of  New 
England  with  almost  despotic  powers.  In  1640,  he  sent  his  son 
Thomas  to  Maine  as  his  deputy.  Thomas  Gorges  took  up  his  resi- 
dence at  the  settlement  of  Agamenticus,  now  the  town  of  York,  and 
in  1642  changed  the  name  of  the  place  to  Gorgeana. 

Since  the  settlement  of  the  colony,  the  French  had  claimed  the  re- 
gion between  the  St.  Croix  and  the  Penobscot,  which  they  had  settled 
under  the  name  of  Acadie,  and  after  the  death  of  the  elder  Gorges  the 
province  was  still  further  divided  among  his  heirs.  These  cut  it  up 
into  four  weak  communities,  whose  helplessness  laid  them  open  to  the 
encroachments  of  the  French  in  Canada.  Apprehensive  of  this  result 
the  colony  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  incited  to  such  a  course  by  the  en- 
treaties of  many  of  the  inhabitants,  set  .up  a  claim,  in  1651,  to  the 
province  of  Maine,  which  it  declared  had  been  granted  to  the  colony 
by  the  original  charter  of  Massachusetts.  Commissioners  were  sent 


180  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

to  admit  the  province  into  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Bay  Colony,  but  the 
authorities  of  Maine  resisted  them,  and  appealed  to  the  Government 
of  Great  Britain.  The  people  of  Maine  were  adherents  of  the  king 
and  the  established  Church,  and  England  was  now  ruled  by  the  Puri- 
tans. Consequently  Massachusetts  won  her  cause,  and  Maine  was 
declared  a  part  of  that  Colony.  Massachusetts  made  a  generous  use 
of  her  authority,  however,  and  allowed  the  towns  of  Maine  very  much 
tlie  same  privileges  and  government  as  they  now  enjoy,  and  in  reli- 
gious matters  was  far  more  tolerant  to  them  than  to  her  own  people. 
This  forbearance,  joined  to  the  natural  liberality  of  the  province,  en- 
tirely exempted  it  from  the  religious  persecutions  which  have  stained 
the  history  of  the  other  colonies.  In  1653,  Cromwell  declared  void  the 
transfer  of  Acadie  to  the  French,  which  had  been  made  by  Charles  I. 
in  1632,  and  appointed  a  Governor  of  that  territory,  who  held  his 
office  until  the  treaty  of  Breda,  in  1669,  by  which  Acadie  was  restored 
to  France.  Upon  the  restoration  of  Charles  II.,  the  heirs  of  Sir  Fer- 
dinando  Gorges  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  royal  order,  restoring  the 
province  of  Maine  to  them.  Massachusetts  resisted  this  order,  but  in 
1670  settled  the  matter  by  purchasing  the  interests  of  the  claimants 
for  the  sum  of  twelve  hundred  and  -fifty  pounds  sterling. 

In  1675,  King  Philip's  war  began  in  New  England.  Maine  came 
in  for  her  full  share  in  these  horrors;  and  from  this  time  until  1760, 
nearly  one  hundred  years,  was  never  free  from  incursions  by  the 
savages.  This  constant  danger  greatly  retarded  her  progress.  Settlers 
were  afraid  to  venture  within  her  limits,  and  many  of  those  who  had 
already  established  themselves  there  removed  to  the  other  colonies. 

The  Duke  of  York  having  received  from  Charles  II.  a  grant  of  the 
Dutch  territories  in  North  America,  set  up  a  claim  to  the  region  be- 
tween the  Kennebec  and  St.  Croix  rivers ;  which  claim  was  resisted 
by  Massachusetts,  who  advanced  her  boundary  to  the  west  shore  of 
Penobscot  Bay.  The  duke  sent  Sir  Edmund  Andros  to  America,  as 
Governor  of  New  York  and  Maine ;  but  his  authority  in  the  latter 
province  was  not  recognized  by  Massachusetts.  Upon  the  accession 
of  the  duke  to  the  English  throne  as.  James  II.,  Andros  was  made 
Governor  of  all  New  England,  where  he  was  guilty  of  the  most  out- 
.rageous  extortion.  The  charter  of  Massachusetts  having  been  declared 
forfeited,  the  Colony  was  powerless  to  protect  the  injured  people,  and 
Andros  had  his  own  way  until  the  Revolution  of  1688,  which  placed 
William  and  Mary  on  the  English  throne,  overthrew  him,  and  restored 
the  former  state  of  aifairs. 


MAINE.  181 

During  the  Revolution,  Maine,  which  continued  to  form  a  part  of 
the  State  of  Massachusetts,  was  almost  entirely  exempted  from  the 
disasters  of  the  war ;  and  the  power  of  the  savages  being  destroyed, 
commenced  to  increase  rapidly  in  population  and  wealth.  The  war 
of  1812  exposed  the  province  to  great  suffering  at  the  hands  of  the 
English,  who  occupied  and  held  the  eastern  portion  of  the  State  until 
the  conclusion  of  peace. 

In  1820,  Massachusetts,  wishing  to  offset  the  growing  power  of  the 
Southern  States,  signified  her  willingness  to  part  with  Maine.  A 
State  Constitution  was  accordingly  adopted  by  the  people  of  the 
province,  and  on  the  15th  of  March,  1820,  Maine  was  admitted  into 
the  Union  as  a  State. 

The  Treaty  of  1783  failed  to  establish  the  eastern  boundary  of 
Maine  with  accuracy ;  and  for  more  than  half  a  century,  the  Govern- 
ments of  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  were  involved  in  a  con- 
troversy concerning  it,  which  at  length  bade  fair  to  embroil  the  two 
countries  in  another  war.  In  1842,  the  Treaty  of  Washington  adjusted 
the  dispute  and  settled  the  boundary  as  it  exists  at  present.  The 
United  States  and  Maine  agreed  to  cede  to  Great  Britain  a  small  part 
of  the  territory  claimed  by  her,  in  return  for  the  free  navigation  of 
the  St.  John's  and  for  Rouse's  Point  in  New  York. 

During  the  Rebellion,  Maine  was  subjected  to  two  incursions  of  the 
Southern  forces.  On  the  night  of  the  29th  of  June,  1863,  the  officers 
and  crew  of  a  Confederate  privateer  captured  the  U.  S.  revenue 
cutter  Caleb  Gushing,  in  the  harbor  of  Portland,  and  carried  her 
to  sea.  They  were  pursued  by  two  steamers  manned  by  armed 
volunteers,  and  overhauled  a  short  distance  from  the  city.  Find- 
ing escape  impossible,  they  blew  up  the  cutter,  and  took  to  their 
boats,  but  were  speedily  overtaken  and  made  prisoners. 

"At  midday,  on  July  18th,  1864,  a  bold  attempt  was  made  to  rob 
the  Calais  Bank,  in  that  town,  by  a  small  party  of  rebel  raiders  from 
St.  John,  N.  B.,  led  by  one  Collins,  a  captain  in  a  Mississippi  regiment. 
But  the  town  authorities  having  been  previously  put  on  their  guard 
by  the  American  Consul  at  St.  John,  three  of  the  party  were  arrested 
and  committed,  and  the  remainder  prudently  kept  out  of  the  way. 
This  attempt,  though  frustrated,  created  an  uneasy  feeling  along  the 
eastern  frontier ;  and  in  Eastport,  Calais,  Belfast,  and  other  border 
towns,  volunteer  organizations  were  formed  for  the  purpose  of  patrol- 
ling the  streets  at  night,  and  the  regular  police  force  was  increased 
armed." 


182  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

During  the  Rebellion,  Maine  furnished  an  aggregate  force  of  71,558 
men  to  the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States.  Of  these,  8446 
were  killed  in  battle  or  died  from  wounds  and  sickness,  and  6642 
were  mustered  out  for  disabilities  resulting  from  wounds  or  sickness 
while  in  active  service. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  cities  of  Maine  are  Augusta,  Bangor,  Bath,  Belfast,  Biddeford, 
Calais,  Gardiner,  Hallowell,  Portland,  and  Rockland.  The  principal 
towns  are  Camclen,  Eastport,  Ellsworth,  Frankfort,  Kittery,  Lewis- 
ton,  Old  Town,  Saco,  Thomaston,  Waldoborough,  Waterville,  and 
Wiscasset. 

AUGUSTA. 

The  city  of  Augusta  is  situated  in  Kennebec  county,  on  the  Kenne- 
bec  River,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  43  miles  from  the  sea.  It  is  60 
miles  north-northeast  of  Portland  by  railroad,  and  175  miles  from 
Boston.  It  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kennebec,  which  is  spanned 
by  two  fine  bridges,  one  used  by  vehicles  and  pedestrians  and  the 
other  by  the  railroad.  The  city  is  built  partly  upon  the  crest  of  a  hill, 
and  partly  along  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  The  former  portion 
is  occupied  principally  by  private  residences,  while  the  latter  is  devoted 
to  business.  It  is  well  built,  and  contains  many  handsome  edifices, 
the  principal  of  which  is  the  State  House,  a  splendid  structure  of  white 
granite,  located  in  the  southern  part  of  the  city,  and  fronted  by  a  large 
and  tasteful  park.  A  United  States  Arsenal,  and  the  State  Insane 
Asylum,  lie  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  are  attractive  fea- 
tures of  the  landscape. 

Augusta  is  well  supplied  with  water-power  by  means  of  a  large  dam 
constructed  across  the  Kennebec,  a  short  distance  above  the  city.  This 
dam  also  affords  water  enough  for  steamboat  communication  between 
Augusta  and  Waterville  when  the  stream  is  not  closed  by  ice.  There 
are  several  large  manufacturing  establishments  in  the  city,  4  or  5 
banks,  an  excellent  female  academy,  9  or  10  churches,  and  8  or  9 
hotels.  It  is  connected  with  Portland  and  Bangor  by  railroad  and 
steamboat.  The  greater  part  of  the  business  portion  of  the  city  was 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1865.  The  population  in  1870  was  7,808.  The 
city  was  founded  in  1754.  Four  weekly  papers  and  one  monthly 
are  published  in  Augusta. 


MAINE.  183 

PORTLAND, 

The  principal  city  of  the  State,  "  is  handsomely  situated  on  a  penin- 
sula, occupying  the  ridge  and  side  of  a  high  point  of  land,  in  the  south- 
west extremity  of  Casco  Bay,  and,  on  approaching  it  from  the  ocean,  is 
seen  to  great  advantage.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  the  anchorage  being  protected  on  every  side  by  land,  whilst  the 
water  is  deep,  and  communication  with  the  ocean  direct  and  conve- 
nient. It  is  defended  by  Forts  Preble,  Scammell,  and  Gorges,  and 
dotted  over  with  lovely  islands.  These  islands  afford  most  delightful 
excursions,  and  are  among  the  greatest  attractions  of  the  vicinity.  On 
the  highest  point  of  the  peninsula  is  an  observatory,  70  feet' in  height, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  harbor,  and  islands  in  the  bay. 
The  misty  forms  of  the  White  Mountains,  60  miles  distant,  are  dis- 
cernible in  clear  weather.  The  original  name  of  Portland  was  Muchi- 
yonne.  It  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  as  an  English  colony  in 
1632,  just  two  centuries  before  the  charter  of  the  present  city  was 
granted.  On  the  night  of  the  4th  of  July,  1866,  a  fire  occurred  which 
swept  away  nearly  one-half  of  the  entire  business  portion  of  the  city. 

"Portland  is  elegantly  built,  and  the  streets  beautifully  shaded  and 
embellished  with  trees,  and  so  profusely,  that  there  are  said  to  be  no  less 
than  3000  of  these  rural  delights.  Congress  Street,  previous  to  the  fire 
the  main  highway,  follows  the  ridge  of  the  peninsula  through  its  en- 
tire extent.  Among  the  public  buildings  of  Portland,  the  City  Hall 
(rebuilding),  the  Court  House,  and  some  of  the  churches,  are  worthy 
of  particular  attention.  The  Society  of  Natural  History,  organized 
1843,  possesses  a  fine  cabinet,  containing  specimens  of  the  ornithology 
of  the  State,  more  than  4000  species  of  shells,  and  a  rich  collection  of 
rnineralogical  and  geological  specimens,  and  of  fishes  and  reptiles. 
The  Athenaeum,  incorporated  in  1826,  has  a  library  of  12,000  vol- 
umes; and  the  Mercantile  Library  possesses,  also,  many  valuable 
books.  The  Marine  Hospital,  erected  in  1855,  at  a  cost  of  §80,000, 
is  an  imposing  edifice.  Brown  &  Co.'s  extensive  sugar  refinery,  wholly 
destroyed  by  the  late  fire,  has  been  rebuilt,  and  will  shortly  be  in 
operation.  The  city  is  being  rebuilt  as  rapidly  as  possible.  Popula- 
tion, 31,414.  The  vicinity  has  several  fine  drives."  * 

Portland  was  formerly  called  Fal mouth.  It  was  incorporated  as  a 
town,  in  1786.  In  1676,  the  savages  made  a  descent  upon  it,  and 
captured  or  killed  thirty  of  the  inhabitants,  and  compelled  the  rest  to 

*  Hancl-Book  of  American  Travel. 


184 


THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


CITY  HALL   AND  COURT   HOUSE,    PORTLAND. 

Seek  safety  on  a  neighboring  island.  In  1689,  the  French  and  In- 
dians made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  capture  the  town ;  but  the  next 
year  the  Indians  were  more  successful.  They  took  the  forts  erected 
for  the  defence  of  the  settlement,  massacred  the  garrison  and  carried 
one  hundred  of  the  inhabitants  into  captivity.  The  settlement  was 
resumed  the  next  year.  On  the  19th  of  November,  1775,  Falmouth 
was  bombarded  and  destroyed  by  a  British  fleet. 

Ten  newspapers  and  other  journals  are  published  in  Portland. 

BANGOR, 

The  second  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Penobscot  county,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Penobscot  River,  60  miles  from  the  sea,  and  126 
miles  northeast  of  Portland,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  railroad 
and  steamer.  The  city  is  located  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kenduskeag 
River,  a  branch  of  the  Penobscot,  and  is  built  on  both  banks  of  the 
former  stream,  the  two  divisions  of  the  city  being  connected  by  several 
bridges,  each  about  570  feet  long.  A  fine  bridge  crosses  the  Penob- 


MAINE.  185 

scot  a  short  distance  above  the  city,  and  unites  Bangor  with  Brewer. 
Tills  bridge  marks  the  upper  line  of  the  harbor,  which  is  about  1500 
feet  wide,  with  a  depth  of  water  sufficient  for  the  largest  vessels. 

Bangor  is  the  principal  lumber  port  in  the  Union.  Immense  quan- 
tities of  lumber  are  brought  down  the  Penobscot,  and  shipped  from 
this  place  by  sea.  Daring  the  season  of  navigation,  which  continues 
for  about  8  months,  over  2000  vessels  leave  this  port  laden  with 
lumber.  The  city  is  also  extensively  engaged  in  the  coast  trade,  in 
foreign  commerce,  and  in  shipbuilding. 

Bangor  is  located  upon  high  ground,  commanding  an  extensive 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  It  is  well  built,  and  contains  seve- 
ral fine  structures,  the  principal  of  which  is  the  Custom  House.  It 
contains  12  or  13  banks,  11  churches,  4  of  which  are  among  the 
handsomest  in  the  State ;  a  theological  seminary,  and  a  number  of 
flourishing  schools.  Two  daily  and  4  weekly  newspapers  are  pub- 
lished in  the  city.  The  water-power  is  derived  from  a  fall  in  the 
Kenduskeag,  half  a  mile  above  its  mouth,  and  is  excellent.  Several 
large  factories,  including  founderies,  machine  shops,  furniture  manu- 
factories, and  saw  mills,  are  established  here.  There  is  railroad 
communication  to  Old  Town,  on  the  Penobscot,  and  this  road  will 
soon  be  extended  to  Calais,  on  the  border  of  New  Brunswick.  The 
population  in  1870,  was  18,289. 

MISCELLANY. 

ARNOLD'S    MARCH    TO    QUEBEC. 

Hon.  J.  T.  Headley,  in  his  biography  of  the  Rev.  Samuel  Spring, 
Chaplain  of  the  expedition,  thus  describes  this  memorable  march : 

At  length  provisions  began  to  grow  scarce,  and  every  one  had  to  be  put  on 
short  allowance.  Mr.  Spring  took  his  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  pork  per  day 
cheerfully  with  the  rest. 

After  incredible  hardships,  and  the  loss  of  150  men,  by  sickness  and  desertion, 
the  army  at  last  reached  the  great  carrying  place,  15  miles  long,  extending  from 
the  Kennebec.  to  the  Dead  River.  Only  3  small  ponds  occurred  the  whole  dis- 
tance, on  which  the  boats  could  be  launched.  The  rest  of  the  way  they  and  the 
provisions,  ammunitions,  etc.,  had  to  be  carried  on  men's  shoulders.  This  was  a 
terrific  strain  on  the  army,  and  the  dispiriting  effect  upon  the  soldiers  was  not  re- 
lieved by  the  appearance  of  the  Dead  River,  when  they  reached  it,  for  it  moved 
sluggish  and  dark  like  the  waters  of  oblivion  through  the  silent  and  motionless 
forest.  Day  after  day  they  toiled  up  this  sluggish  stream,  between  the  monoto- 
nous walls  of  forest  that  lined  its  banks,  until  it  seemed  as  if  there  was  no  outlet 
or  opening  to  the  apparently  interminable  wilderness.  At  every  bend,  the  eye 
strained  forward  to  catch  some  indication  of  change,  and  when  at  last  they  came 


186  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

in  sight  of  a  snow-covered  mountain  in  the  distance,  telling  them  there  was  an 
outer  world  after  all,  the  men  sent  up  a  shout  that  woke  the  echoes  far  and  wide. 

Near  its  base  they  encamped  3  days,  and  Spring  spent  most  of  the  time  in 
visiting  the  sick,  and  praying  with  them.  The  army  had  scarcely  got  under  way 
again,  when  the  heavens  became  overcast ;  dark  and  angry  clouds  swept  the 
heavens,  and  the  heavy  winds  sobbed  and  moaned  through  the  forest.  Soon  the 
rain  came  down  in  torrents.  Side  by  side  with  the  drenched  soldier  the  tall 
chaplain  trudged  uncomplainingly  on,  and  lay  down  like  him  on  the  wet  ground 
at  night.  It  poured  without  cessation  for  3  days,  shedding  still  deeper  gloom 
over  the  army.  The  river  rose  steadily  the  whole  time,  till  the  sluggish  current 
at  length  swept  down  with  such  velocity  and  power  that  the  boats  could-  with 
difficulty  stem  it.  On  the  third  night,  just  as  the  soldiers  had  lain  down  to  rest, 
lifter  having  kindled  a  huge  fire,  Mr.  Spring  heard  a  roar  in  the  forest  above  them 
like  the  sound  of  the  surf  beating  upon  the  shore,  and  the  next  moment  the  glan- 
cing waters  were  seen  sweeping  through  the  trees  on  both  sides  of  the  stream. 
In  an  instant  the  camp  wTas  alive  with  shouts  and  cries  rising  above  the  turbulent 
flood  that  deluged  the  ground  on  which  they  stood.  The  fires  were  extinguished, 
and  in  the  tumult,  and  confusion,  and  darkness,  no  one  knew  which  way  to  flee 
for  safety,  or  what  to  do.  In  this  state  of  uncertainty  and  dread  the  night  wore 
away.  The  daylight  revealed  to  them  a  spectacle  sad  enough  to  fill  the  bravest 
heart  with  discouragement.  Boats  had  drifted  into  the  forest,  and  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach  the  level  ground  was  one  broad  lake,  out  of  which  arose  the  dark 
stems  of  the  trees  like  an  endless  succession  of  columns.  In  nine  hours  the  water 
rose  8  feet,  totally  obliterating  the  shores  of  Dead  River. 

But  the  provisions  were  getting  lower  and  lower,  and  Arnold  could  not  wrait 
for  the  river  to  subside.  The  army  was,  therefore,  pushed  on,  slowly  stemming 
the  flood;  but  seven  boats,  carrying  provisions,  were  caught  in  the  whirling, 
angry  waters,  and  upset,  and  all  their  contents  destroyed. 

The  boldest  now  paused  in  dismay,  for  only  12  days*  provisions  remained, 
while  30  miles'  across  the  mountain  were  to  be  traversed  before  they  could  reach 
the  head  waters  of  the  Chaudiere,  that  flowed  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  council 
of  war  was  called  to  decide  what  should  be  done  in  this  crisis  of  affairs.  They 
had  now  been  a  month  away  from  civilization,  the  sick  were  increasing,  while 
famine  was  staring  them  in  the  face.  It  was  determined  at  length  to  leave  the 
sick  there,  and  despatch  orders  to  Colonels  Green  and  Knbx,  in  the  rear,  to  has- 
ten  up,  and  take  them  back  to  Cambridge. 

Here  was  an  opportunity  for  the  young  chaplain  to  abandon  the  expedition*, 
and  yet  apparently  be  in  the  path  of  duty.  He  had  had  enough,  one  would  think, 
of  toil,  exposure,  and  suffering,  not  to  wish  to  face  still  greater  hardships,  and 
perhaps  death  itself,  by  famine  in  the  wilderness,  he  following  its  fortunes.  But 
he  believed  the  welfare  of  his  country  was  deeply  involved  in  its  fate,  and  he  de- 
termined, come  what  would,  to  share  its  vicissitudes,  hazards,  and  destiny. 
Having,  therefore,  prayed  xvith  the  sick,  encouraged  the  desponding  with  the 
promise  that  relief  would  soon  come,  and  pointed  those  whom  he  believed  dying 
to  the  Saviour  of  men,  and  commended  all  to  the  care  and  mercy  of  God,  he  bade 
them  farewell,  and  moved  forward  with  the  advancing  column. 

The  cold,  autumnal  rains  had  now  turned  into  snow,  which,  sifting  down 
through  the  leafless  tree-tops,  covered  the  weary,  wan,  and  straggling  column 
with  a  winding  sheet,  that  seemed  to  be  wrapping  it  for  the  tomb.  After  they 
left  the  sick  in  the  wilderness,  they  passed  17  falls  before  they  reached  the  head- 


MAINE.  187 

waters  of  Dead  River.  It  was  still  4  miles  across  to  the  Chaudtere,  down  which 
they  were  to  float  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Here,  on  the  summit  of  the  hills  on  which  the  waters  divide,  one  part  flowing- 
south  and  the  other  north,  Arnold  distributed  the  last  provisions  to  the  separate 
companies,  and,  taking  only  13  men,  pushed  on  for  the  Chaudiere.  He  told 
those  left  behind,  in  parting,  that  he  would  obtain  provisions  for  them  in  advance, 
if  human  efforts  could  procure  them  ;  but  directed  them  to  follow  after  as  fast  as 
they  could,  for,  he  added,  their  only  safety  lay  in  advancing.  Spring  remained 
behind  with  the  army,  to  share  its  privations  and  its  fate,  whatever  that  might 
be.  The  gallant  fellows  gave  their  indomitable  leader  three  parting  cheers,  and 
then  began  to  heave  their  heavy  boats  from  the  water.  Hoisting  them  upon  their 
shoulders,  while  others  were  loaded  down  with  baggage  and  ammunition,  and 
others  still  dragged  the  few  pieces  of  artillery  along  like  cattle,  they  staggered  on 
through  the  forest.  The  scanty  provisions  that  were  left  them,  though  eked  out 
with  the  greatest  parsimony,  grew  rapidly  less,  and  finally  failed  entirely.  Under 
the  low  rations  and  severe  labor  combined,  the  men  had  gradually  grown  weaker 
and  weaker,  and  now,  pale  and  emaciated,  looked  on  each  other  in  mute  inquiry. 
A  council  of  war  was  called,  and  it  was  determined  to  kill  the  dogs  they  had  with 
them,  and  push  on  till  this  loathsome  supply  was  exhausted.  These  faithful  ani- 
mals, hitherto  the  companions  of  their  toils,  were  slain  and  divided  among  the 
different  companies.  After  the  bodies  were  devoured,  their  legs  and  even  claws 
were  boiled  for  soup. 

It  was  a  sad  sight  to  see  the  groups  of  half-famished  soldiers  seated  together 
around  a  fire,  watching  with  eager  looks  the  pot  containing  this  refuse  of  the 
dogs,  and  gazing  with  strange  meaning  into  each  other's  eyes.  The  chaplain 
fared  like  the  rest,  and  famine  and  incessant  toil  and  exposure  were  telling  on 
him  as  well  as  on  the  soldiers.  The  tall  frame  grew  less  erect,  and  the  wan  face 
showed  that  starvation  was  eating  away  his  life.  Trusting,  however,  in  God, 
whom  he  served,  he  endured  all  cheerfully,  and  bore  that  famished  multitude  on 
his  heart  to  the  throne  of  heavenly  grace.  The  soldiers,  in  all  their  sufferings, 
thought  of  him  with  the  deepest  sympathy,  and  could  not  but  feel  encouraged 
when  the*y  saw  his  serene,  though  emaciated  countenance,  and  listened  to  his  ex- 
pressions of  calm  confidence  in  God,  that  he  would  yet  deliver  them.  He  often 
walked  through  the  woods  to  look  at  the  various  groups,  and  see  where  he  could 
be  of  most  service.  His  heart  bled  at  the  destitution  he  witnessed  on  every  side. 
One  day  he  came  upon  a  company  gathered  around  a  fire,  boiling  some  dogs' 
claws  they  had  preserved  to  make  soup  with.  As  he  paused  to  look  at  them, 
they  rose,  and,  in  true  kindness  of  heart,  urged  him  to  share  their  meagre,  dis- 
gusting broth.  It  was  a  novel,  but  touching  evidence  of  the  deep  affection  they 
bore  their  young  chaplain,  and  told,  in  language  stronger  than  words,  what  an 
example  of  patient  endurance  he  had  shown,  and  how  kind  and  faithful  had  been 
his  labors  among  them. 

At  last  the  dogs  gave  out,  and  then  the  soldiers  tore  off  their  moose-skin  moc- 
casins, and  boiled  them  to  extract  a  little  nourishment.  The  feet  could  stand  the 
November  frosts  better  than  their  stomachs  endure  the  gnawings  of  famine. 
They  reached  at  length  the  banks  of  the  Chaudiere,  and  launched  their  boats. 
The  current,  however,  was^swollen  and  rapid — now  boiling  amid  the  rocks,,  and 
now  shooting  like  an  arrow  around  a  jutting  precipice.  On  such  a  turbulent 
flood  the  boats  soon  became  unmanageable,  and  one  after  another  was  stranded 
or  shivered  into  fragments,  till  nearly  all  were  destroyed. 


188  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

They  were  still  30  miles  from  the  French  settlements,  and  now  were  compelled 
to  shoulder  their  burdens,  and  advance  on  foot,  in  straggling  parties,  through  the 
forest.  During  all  these  perils  and  sufferings,  scarce  a  Sabbath  passed  in  which 
Spring  did  not  mount  his  pulpit  of  knapsacks,  and  preach  to  the  troops,  whilo 
every  morning,  before  the  march  began,  his  earnest  prayer  arose  to  God  for 
help. 

The  last  miserable  substitute  for  food  was  at  length  exhausted,  and  with  empty 
stomachs  and  bowed  forms  they  slowly,  despairingly  toiled  onward,  while  all 
along  their  track  the  snow  was  stained  with  blood.  As  they  were  now  approach- 
ing the  French  settlements,  severe  discipline  was  enforced.  They  needed  no 
fires  to  cook  their  food,  for  they  had  none  to  cook  ;  but  none  was  allowed  them 
to  warm  themselves  by,  and  strict  orders  were  given  not  to  discharge  a  gun  for 
any  purpose.  While  the  weary  column  was  thus  staggering  silently  on,  suddenly 
the  report  of  a  musket  was  heard  far  in  advance,  then  another,  and  another,  till 
twenty  echoed  through  the  forest.  They  ceased,  and  then  a  long  shout  rolled 
back  through  the  solitude,  producing  the  wildest  excitement.  Mr.  Spring  never 
forgot  that  thrilling  scene,  and  long  after,  in  speaking  of  it,  said:  "The  army 
was  starving,  but  moving  on.  The  pioneers,  who  were  ahead  to  clear  the  way, 
roused  suddenly  a  noble  moose.  It  was  the  first  that  had  been  seen.  The  temp- 
tation was  too  strong  to  be  resisted.  One  man  fired — he  missed.  Twenty  guns 
were  levelled  at  him.  He  fell — they  forgot  all  discipline  in  their  extremity,  and 
shouted.  It  was  a  noble  moose,  weighing  not  less  than  1000  pounds.  A  halt 
was  ordered — camp  kettles  taken  out,  fires  kindled,  meat,  blood,  entrails,  hoofs 
and  horns  chopped  up,  and  soup  made  of  all  for  the  army." 

Revived  by  this  unexpected  supply,  the  troops  pushed  on.  The  next  day  they 
met  a  company  of  men  with  provisions,  sent  back  by  Arnold  to  relieve  them.  A 
loud  shout  arose  from  the  whole  army,  and  a  general  feast  was  ordered.  Several 
of  the  soldiers,  unable  to  restrain  their  appetites,  eat  so  voraciously  that  they 
sickened  and  died.  They  had  braved  the  wilderness,  and  withstood  the  ravages 
of  famine,  to  fall  victims  to  unrestrained  indulgence.  It  was  with  profound  sad- 
ness the  young  chaplain  performed  the  last  religious  rites  over  their  rude  graves 
in  the  northern  wilderness. 


NEW   HAMPSHIRE. 

Area, 9,280  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1SGO, 326,073 

Population  in.  1870, 318,300 

THE  State  of  New  Hampshire  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Canada 
East,  on  the  east  by  Maine  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  south  by 
Massachusetts,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Connecticut  River  and  Ver- 
mont. It  is  90  miles  broad  at  its  southern,  and  45  miles  broad  at 
its  northern  extremity,  and  185  miles  long  from  north  to  south.  It 
forms  a  species  of  irregular  triangle,  and  is  situated  between  latitude 
42°  40'  and  45°  25'  N.,  and  between  longitude  70°  40'  and  72°  35'  W. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  of  the  State  is  broken  and  mountainous.  The  country 
rises  rapidly  as  it  recedes  from  the  coast  until  its  greatest  height  is  at- 
tained in  Mount  Washington,  one  of  the  White  Mountains,  in  Coos 
county.  The  White  Mountains  proper  are  only  about  20  miles  long, 
and  lie  almost  entirely  in  Coos  county,  but  broken  and  detached 
groups  lie  all  over  the  State  from  the  northern  boundary  down  to 
and  across  the  Massachusetts  border.  The  only  level  land,  exclusive 
of  the  mountain  valleys,  extends  along  the  coast,  and  for  about  30 
miles  into  the  interior.  The  principal  Peaks  in  New  Hampshire 
which  are  distinct  from  the  White  Mountains,  are  as  follows:  the 
Blue  Hills,  1151  feet  above  the  ocean,  situated  in  the  southeast  part 
of  the  State ;  Mount  Chocura,  in  Carroll  county,  3358  feet  high ; 
Carr's  Mountain,  in  Grafton  county,  1381  feet  high;  Mount  Kear- 
sarge,  in  Hillsborough  county,  3067  feet;  Mount  Monadnock,  in 
Cheshire  county,  3718  feet;  Mount  Andover,  in  Merrimack  county, 
2000  feet;  and  Moosehillock,  in  Grafton  county,  4636  feet. 

189 


190  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  White  Mountains  lie  in  the  southern  part  of  Coos  county,  in 
the  northeastern  part  of  the  State.  The  principal  peaks  of  this  range 
are  Mount  Washington,  6226  feet;  Mount  Jefferson,  5657  feet; 
Mount  Adams,  5759  feet;  Mount  Madison,  5415;  Mount  Monroe, 
5349;  Mount  Franklin,  4850  feet;  and  Mount  Pleasant,  4712  feet. 
The  prominent  features  of  this  region,  which  is  styled,  on  account  of 
its  beauty,  "  The  Switzerland  of  America/'  are  thus  sketched  by  a 
recent  writer: 

"The  White  Mountains,  already  referred  to,  attract  more  tourists 
than  any  other  natural  object  in  the  United  States,  excepting  only 
Niagara  Falls.  The  traveller  may  journey  for  weeks  through  its  wild 
scenery,  with  a  constant  succession  of  grand  objects  to  interest  his 
mind.  The  fashionable  route  is  to  enter  New  Hampshire  by  the 
Boston  and  Montreal  Railways  to  Wier's,  on  Lake  Winnipiseogee; 
then  take  the  steamboat,  and,  having  made  the'  circuit  of  the  lake, 
enter  the  stage  for  Con  way,  on  the  east  side  of  the  White  Mountains, 
and  from  thence,  by  another  stage,  through  the  celebrated  Notch,  to 
the  Notch  House,  which  stands  in  the  very  jaws  of  the  pass.  The 
return  is  by  the  Franconia  Notch  (about  26  miles  southwest  of  the 
White  Mountain  Notch),  and  south  down  the  valley  of  the  Pemige- 
wasset,  to  Plymouth,  or  back  to  Lake  Winnipiseogee,  according  as 
the  tourist  wishes  to  direct  his  steps  thereafter.  The  White  Mountain 
Notch  is  a  pass  of  great  celebrity.  Coming  from  the  north  or  west, 
you  enter  it  by  an  opening  only  23  feet  in  width,  between  two  per- 
pendicular rocks,  one  20,  and  the  other  12  feet  high.  The  infant 
Saco  trickles  its  way  through  this  nar  ow  opening,  gradually  expand- 
ing as  it  proceeds  down  the  pass,  and  receiving  other  tributaries  from 
the  mountain-sides,  which  form  the  walls  of  the  gorge,  and  which 
tower  to  the  height  of  about  2000  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  Saco.  In 
this  pass  occurred,  in  1826,  the  landslide  which  destroyed  the  Willey 
family.  The  more  wild  and  abrupt  parts  of  the  Notch  extend  for  2 
or  3  miles  from  its  entrance  at  the  Notch  House.  Mount  Washington 
is  ascended  on  horseback  from  the  Notch  House,  by  a  bridle-path, 
first  climbing  Mount  Clinton — in  immediate  proximity  to  the  hotel  r- 
for  2J  miles,  and  then  coasting  the  east  side  of  the  peaks  of  Mount 
Pleasant,  Mount  Franklin,  and  Mount  Monroe,  for  4  miles  further, 
occasionally  ascending  a  rough,  steep  ridge,  and  again  descending, 
now  riding  on  the  verge  of  a  vast  ravine  of  several  hundred  feet  in 
depth,  and  now  on  the  crest  of  a  ridge  commanding  a  view  of  both 
sides  of  the  chain — we  arrive  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Washington,  1500 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE. 


191 


SCENE    IN    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 

feet  in  perpendicular,  and  about  one  mile  in  inclined  ascent,  above  the 
base  of  the  cone  or  peak,  and  6226  feet  above  the  sea.  This  is  the 
most  difficult,  though  scarcely  dangerous,  part  of  the  ascent,  as  it  is 
little  else  than  riding  on  horseback  over  a  pile  of  rocks  of  every  variety 
of  size,  cast  together  as  if  hurled  there  by  the  Titans,  in  war  or  at 
phiy.  Fro'm  the  summit,  if  the  day  be  clear,  is  afforded  a  view  un- 
equalled, perhaps,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  North  American  conti- 
nent. Around  you,  in  every  direction,  are  confused  masses  of  moun- 
tains, bearing  the  appearance  of  a  sea  of  molten  lava  suddenly  cooled, 
whilst  its  ponderous  waves  were  yet  in  commotion.  On  the  southeast 
horizon  gleams  a  rim  of  silver  light — it  is  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  65 
miles  distant — laving  the  shores  of  Maine.  Lakes — of  all  sizes,  from 
Lake  Winnipiseogee  to  mere  mountain  ponds — and  f  mountains  be- 
neath you  gleam  misty  and  wide.9  Far  off  to  the  northeast  is  Mount 
Katahdin.  In  the  western  horizon  are  the  Green  Mountains  of  Ver- 
mont, and  to  the  south  and  southwest  are  Mount  Monadnock  and 
Kearsarge,  or  Kiarsage,  while  the  space  between  is  filled  up  with 


192  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

every  variety  of  landscape,  mountain,  and  hill,  plain  and  valley,  lake 
and  river. 

"Those  to  whom  it  is  an  object  -to  reach  Mount  Washington  with 
as  little  stage-riding  as  possible,  may  be  lauded  at  Gorham  by  the 
Portland  and  Montreal  Railway  cars,  within  5  miles  of  the  base  of  the 
mountain.  The  Franconia  Notch  is  deemed  by  many  quite  as  inter- 
esting as  the  White  Mountain  Notch.  Near  it  are  many  agreeable 
accessories  not  to  be  found  in  the  latter;  among  which  are  Echo  Lake, 
just  at  the  northern  entrance  of  the  gorge,  and  the  '  Old  Man  of  the 
Mountain/  a  well-defined  profile  of  a  human  face,  1000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  pass.  The  Basin,  4  miles  south  of  the  Notch,  is  a 
pool  of  beautifully  transparent  water.  One  mile  below  this,  again,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Flume  House,  is  the  celebrated  Flume,  a  narrow 
gorge  or  opening  in  the  rocks,  only  a  few  feet  in  width,  and  from  70 
to  120  feet  in  height,  through  which  flows 'a  small  tributary  of  the 
Pemigewasset ;  below  this  is  a  cascade  of  616  feet  in  length,  which  in 
the  spring  and  fall  freshets  is  an  object  of  great  interest.  In  the  same 
neighborhood  is  the  Pool  (a  basin  formed  by  a  small  fall  in  the 
Pemigewasset),  which  is  about  60  feet  in  diameter,  and  40  feet  deep, 
surrounded  by  mural  precipices  150  feet  in  height.  The  Flume,  the 
Basin,  and  the  Pool,  all  within  an  agreeable  walking  distance  of  the 
Flume  House,  make  this  one  of  the  most  agreeable  stopping-places 
among  the  mountains.  Mount  Lafayette — only  700  feet  inferior  in 
altitude  to  Mount  Washington — is  also  ascended  from  the  same  house, 
which  has  the  further  advantage  of  being  within  a  five-miles  ride  of 
the  Franconia  Notch.  The  other  detached  mountains  scattered  over 
New  Hampshire  would,  in  any  other  State,  not  overshadowed  by 
Mount  Washington  and  his  court,  merit  conspicuous  notice.  Dixville 
Notch,  about  46  miles  north  of  Lancaster,  is  said  to  be  but  little  in- 
ferior to  the  two  great  passes  already  described.  New  Hampshire 
shares  with  Vermont  the  beautiful  river  Connecticut,  whose  shores 
are  often  grand,  and  seldom  tame.  Bellows  Falls,  in  this  river,  on 
the  southwest  border  of  the  State,  are  formed  by  the  contraction  of  the 
river  bed  to  about  20  feet  on  the  west  side  at  low  water,  through 
which  the  stream  rushes  with  great  violence.  At  high  water,  it  flows 
in  the  eastern  as  well  as  western  channel.  These  beds  are  separated 
by  a  huge  rock.  The  entire  descent  in  half  a  mile  is  42  feet.  At 
Amoskeag,  the  Merrimac  descends  50  feet  in  three  successive  pitches. 
In  the  White  Mountain  Notch  is  a  cascade  which  winds  down  the 
face  of  the  mountain,  through  a  fall  of  800  feet,  giving,  after  copious 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE.  103 

rains,  an  additional  interest  to  the  scene,  as  it  glides  or  leaps  over  the 
different  stages  of  its  descent.  There  are  two  interesting  falls  in  the 
Ammonoosuck,  within  a  pleasant  drive  from  the  Notch  House."  * 

Lake  Winnipiseogee  is  the  principal  inland  sheet  of  water.  It  is 
irregular  in  shape,  its  shores  being  deeply  indented  with  a  number  of 
bays.  It  is  25  miles  long,  and  varies  in  width  from  1  to  10  miles. 
It  is  very  deep,  and  the  water,  pure  and  clear  as  crystal,  is  alive  with 
fine  trout.  It  is  thickly  studded  with  islands,  and  abounds  in  the 
most  picturesque  scenery.  Steamers  ply  between  Alton  Bay  and 
Centre  Harbor,  stopping  at  the  various  points  along  the  lake.  Large 
numbers  of  visitors  come  here  every  summer. 

The  Connecticut  River,  the  largest  .and  most  beautiful  in  New 
England,  rises  in  the  extreme  northern  part  of  this  State,  in  the  hills 
lying  along  the  border  of  Canada.  Flowing  across  the  State,  it  turns 
to  the  southwest  at  the  northern  line  of  Vermont,  and  pursuing  a 
generally  southwest  course,  forms  the  boundary  between  Vermont 
and  New  Hampshire,  arid  passes  into  Massachusetts.  The  scenery 
along  the  river  is  very  beautiful,  and  has  made  the  "Connecticut 
Valley"  famous  throughout  the  country.  Above  the  Massachusetts 
line  it  is  chiefly  mountainous. 

The  Merrimac  River  is  the  next  in  importance,  and  lies  almost 
entirely  within  the  State.  It  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Pemige- 
wasset  and  Winnipiseogee  rivers,  in  Belknap  county.  Flowing  to 
the  southward,  it  enters  Massachusetts  about  80  miles  from  its  source. 
Then  turning  abruptly  to  the  northeast,  it  flows  into  the  Atlantic  near 
Newburyport.  It  is  about  110  miles  long,  and  flows  through  a  val- 
ley noted  for  its  beauty.  Haverhill,  in  Massachusetts,  15  miles  from 
the  sea,  is  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  but  canals  have  been  cut 
around  the  falls,  which  enable  boats  to  ascend  to  Concord,  New 
Hampshire.  The  river  turns  by  its  excellent  water-power  more  mills 
and  factories  than  any  other  in  the  Union.  The  Salmon  Falls,  Pis- 
cataqua,  Contoocook,  Souhegan,  and  Nashua  are  the  other  prominent 
streams. 

The  Isle  of  Shoals  is  the  name  given  to  a  group  of  8  islands,  3 
of  which  belong  to  New  Hampshire,  and  the  rest  to  Maine.  They 
lie  off  the  coast,  11  miles  from  Portsmouth.  A  steamer  plies  daily 
between  that  city  and  the  principal  island.  "  The  voyage  is  but  an 
hour  in  length,  and  the  scenery,  as  the  boat  passes  down  the  river 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1306. 
13 


194  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

through  the  Narrows,  stemming  bravely  the  rushing  tide,  or  borne 
surfing  upon  it,  is  most  delightful.  Sliding  by  Fort  Constitution  and 
the  Whale's  Back  Light  House,  the  steamer  is  soon  upon  the  wide 
Atlantic.  Directly  in  front  is  the  dim  outline  of  the  islands,  while 
behind  stretches  the  white  line  of  the  coast.  In  the  distance  rise  the 
hills  of  New  Hampshire  and  the  blue  sides  of  Agamenticus,  the  high 
mountain  of  York.  As  the  boat  approaches  the  Appledore  Island, 
the  hotel  unfolds  its  size  and  proportions.  Landing  by  row-boats,  the 
traveller  ascends,  by  an  easy  path,  to  the  portico,  where  an  expectant 
crowd  is  assembled. 

"The  'Appledore'  is  conducted  by  Oscar  and  Cedric  Laighton, 
whose  father  is  well  remembered  as  the  former  proprietor.  His  grave 
is  now  one  of  the  interesting  and  noteworthy  spots  upon  the  rocky 
island.  Here  also  are  buried  the  unfortunate  crew  of  a  Spanish  ves- 
sel driven  upon  the  cliffs  on  a  winter's  night.  This  incident  has  been 
made  the  subject  of  an  effective  poem  by  Longfellow. 

"The  steamboat  reaches  the  ' Appledore ?  at  1  o'clock  each  day,  and 
starts  upon  its  homeward  trip  at  3  P.  M.  Visitors  to  the  other 
islands  of  the  group  are  carried  across  in  small  boats.  The  distance 
is  short  to  Gosport,  where  is  a  small  village  of  some  30  houses,  a 
church,  and  a  school-house.  The  population  are  hardy  fishermen, 
among  whom  can  still  be  traced  the  Portuguese  features  of  the  origi- 
nal colonizers  from  the  fleet  of  John  Smith,  by  whom  these  islands 
were  discovered.  A  disaster  fell  upon  them  a  year  ago,  in  the  shape 
of  fire.  Half  their  little  settlement  was  consumed  in  a  single  night; 
and  this  calamity,  to  so  hard-working  a  people,  excited  much  sym- 
pathy throughout  New  England.  Assistance  was  given  them,  and 
they  are  now  recovering  from  their  losses. 

"  Near  by  is  White  Island,  where  a  revolving  light  casts  a  crimson 
glow  over  a  sea  which  sleeps  through  the  summer  months,  but  which 
rises  in  the  winter  storms  with  mighty  strength.  The  other  islands 
are  known  by  the  euphonious  names  of  Smutty-Nose  and  Hog.  They 
are  visited  only  by  sportsmen,  and  are  a  refuge  for  innumerable  sea- 
fowl." 

MINERALS. 

Iron  is  found  in  several  counties,  principally  at  Franconia,  Pier- 
mont,  and  Bartlett.  Bog-ore  deposits  are  thickly  scattered  over  the 
State.  Copper,  lead,  zinc  and  plumbago  are  also  found  in  several 
localities,  and  silver  has  been  discovered  near  Pittsfield.  Granite  of 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE.  195 

a  fine  quality  abounds.  Gneiss,  crystallized-quartz,  talc,  steatite,  tour- 
malins, ochres,  limestone,  spars  of  various  kinds,  terra  sienna,  sulphur, 
magnesia^  beryls,  garnets,  jasper,  manganese,  asbestus,  and  amethysts 
are  found. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  New  Hampshire  is  severe,  but  uniform.  Franconia 
is  said  to  be  the  coldest  place  in  the  Union ;  the  thermometer  some- 
times indicating  40  degrees  below  zero.  The  summers  are  short,  but 
pleasant  The  cold  weather  begins  in  October,  and  snow  falls  in  No- 
vember and  lasts  until  May,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  and 
until  April  in  the  southern.  In  the  mountains  it  frequently  lies  on 
the  ground  until  July.  The  springs  are  damp  and  are  rendered  dis- 
agreeable by  heavy  fogs. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  is  not  naturally  fertile,  but  has  been  made  so  by  patient 
and  laborious  tillage.  The  northern  part  is  but  little  cultivated,  and 
the  best  lands  are  in  the  valleys  of  the  rivers,  which  occasionally  en- 
rich them  by  overflows.  Sheep  and  cattle  raising  form  a  prominent 
part  of  the  industry  of  the  State,  the  high  lands  and  mountain  sides 
affording  good  pasturage. 

In  1869,  there  were  2,367,034  acres  of  improved  land  in  New 
Hampshire,  and  1,377,591  acres  unimproved.  The  remainder  of 
agricultural  wealth  of  the  State  for  the  same  year  may  be  stated  as 
follows : 

Cash  value  of  farms, $69,869,761 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery,   .  $2,682,412 

Number  of  horses, 45,101 

asses  and  mules, 40 

milch  cows, 99,540 

other  cattle, 203,800 

"           sheep, 620,890 

swine, 79,680 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $12,924,629 

Bushels  of  wheat, 291,000 

rye, 150,000 

"           Indian  corn,    .........  1,400,000 

oats, 1,663,000 

"           peas  and  beans, 89,454 

Irish  potatoes, 4,500,000 

"           barley, 106,000 

u           buckwheat.     .........  90,400 


196  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Bushels  of  clover  seed  (estimated), 13,000 

44  grass  seed  (estimated), 6,500 

Pounds  of  wool  (estimated), 2,000,000 

"  butter, .  6,956,764 

"  cheese, 2,323,092 

hops, 150,000 

maple  sugar, 2,255,012 

44  beeswax  and  honey, 130,078 

Tons  of  hay, 700,000 

Value  of  orchard  products, $557,934 

44  home-made  manufactures,  ....  $251,013 

44  slaughtered  animals,  ......  $3,787,500 

COMMERCE. 

New  Hampshire  has  but  one  good  harbor,  that  of  Portsmouth ;  and 
but  one  river  navigable,  and  that  for  but  a  short  distance  from  the 
sea.  This,  of  course,  limits  the  amount  of  her  foreign  trade. 

During  the  year  ending  June  30th,  1861,  the  commerce  of  the  State 
was  as  follows :  value  of  exports,  $6112 ;  value  of  imports,  $20,887. 

MANUFACTURES. 

The  rivers  of  New  Hampshire  furnish  an  abundance  of  first  class 
water-power,  and  the  people  are  largely  engaged  in  manufactures. 
According  to  the  census  of  1860,  there  were  2582  establishments  in 
the  State  engaged  in  manufactures,  mining  and  the  mechanic  arts. 
They  employed  a  capital  of  $25,900,000,  and  36,100  hands;  con- 
sumed raw  material  worth  $24,400,000 ;  and  yielded  products  worth 
$45,500,000.  Of  these,  44  were  cotton  factories,  employing  a  capital 
of  $13,878,000,  and  6300  male  and  13,859  female  hands,  consuming 
$9,758,921  worth  of  raw  material,  paying  $4,574,520  annually  for 
labor,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $16,661,531 ;  and  71  were 
woollen  factories,  employing  a  capital  of  $1,519,550,  and  1003  male 
and  1003  female  hands,  paying  annually  $499,764  for  labor,  consum- 
ing raw  material  worth  $1,732,074,  and  yielding  an  annual  product 
of  $2,876,000.  The  other  manufactures  were  as  follows :  value  of 
leather  produced,  $1,933,949  ;  rolled  iron,  $7000;  steam  engines  and 
machinery,  $898,560 ;  agricultural  implements,  $134,935 ;  sawed  and 
planed  lumber,  $1,230,000 ;  flour,  $1,490,000;  liquors,  $86,000. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  there  were  790  miles  of  railroad  within  the  limits  of  the 
State.     These,  in  many  instances  merely  crossed  it,  terminating  at 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE.  19T 

either  Boston  or  Portland.  Others  had  one  terminus  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, and  another  in  some  other  State,  and  a  few  short  routes  lay 
within  the  State.  The  railroads  have  almost  entirely  supplanted  the 
canals  built  for  the  improvement  of  the  Merrimac  River. 


EDUCATION. 

In  the  year  1870,  there  were  2542  public  schools  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, attended  by  33,123  male,  and  31,554  female  pupils.  These 
schools  were  conducted  by  653  male,  and  2702  female  teachers.  Be- 
sides these,  there  are  about  50  private  academies  in  the  State,  and  one 
college,  which  is  located  at  Dartmouth.  This  institution  was  founded 
in  1769,  and  is  in  a  flourishing  condition. 

The  educational  system  is  maintained  by  sales  of  public  lands,  taxes 
upon  the  capital  of  the  banks,  and  a  poll  tax  upon  the  inhabitants. 
It  is  controlled  by  a  series  of  district  committees,  who  are  subordinate 
to  the  Board  of  Education  of  the  State.  The  expenditures  for  schools, 
not  including  the  private  schools,  for  the  year  1870,  was  $403,310. 

In  1870,  there  were  1526  libraries  in  the  State,  containing  704,269 
volumes. 

In  the  same  year,  upwards  of  50  newspapers  were  published  in 
this  State. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  Insane  Asylum,  at  Concord,  was  incorporated  in  1838.  It  is 
provided  with  excellent  and  commodious  buildings,  and  has  a  farm 
of  155  acres  attached  to  it.  The  whole  number  of  patients  under 
treatment  during  the  year  1870  was  367—190  males,  177  females. 

The  Reform  School  is  located  near  Manchester,  and  is  surrounded 
by  a  farm  of  100  acres,  which  is  worked  by  the  boys  of  the  school. 
Children  of  both  sexes  are  received  here,  and  are  subjected  to  a  mild 
but  firm  course  of  discipline  for  their  reformation.  The  school  was 
founded  in  1856,  and  has  been  very  successful  in  its  operations. 
During  the  year  1869-70,  its  inmates  numbered  155 — males  135, 
females  20. 

The  State  Prison  is  located  at  Concord.  It  is  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition, and  is  conducted  upon  a  system  which  aims  to  reform  as  well 
as  punish.  The  Legislature  of  1867  passed  an  Act,  known  as  the 
"  Commutation  law,"  by  which,  says  the  Governor  of  the  Common- 
wealth, "every  month  of  exemplary  conduct  on  the  part  of  a  prisoner 
gains  him  a  certain  amount  of  time  to  be  deducted  from  the  term  of 


198  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

his  sentence.  ....  Every  convict  who  avails  himself  of  the  benefits 
of  this  provision  is  released  in  advance  of  the  expiration  of  his  original 
term  of  imprisonment,  and  thus  retains  the  rights  of  citizenship." 
During  the  year  1870,  the  whole  number  of  prisoners  confined  here 
was  118. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  was  $3,303,780.  The  num- 
ber of  churches  was  624. 

FINANCES. 

The  finances  of  the  State  are  in  a  prosperous  condition.  In  1870, 
the  total  public  debt  was  $2,817,869.  The  receipts  of  the  Treasury 
for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30th,  1870,  including  cash  on  hand, 
were  $1,123,028,  and  the  disbursements  $1,086,350,  leaving  a  bal- 
ance of  $36,678  in  the  Treasury  on  the  1st  of  July,  1870. 

There  are  but  few  State  banks  left,  nearly  all  of  the  old  institutions 
having  embraced  the  National  Bank  system.  In  May,  1868,  there 
were  a  few  remaining  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $237,300,  and 
these  were  preparing  to  reorganize  under  the  new  system.  At  the 
same  time,  there  were  40  National  Banks,  with  an  aggregate  capital 
of  $4,785,000,  besides  a  number  of  Savings  institutions. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  adult  male  inhabitant  of  the  State,  over  twenty-one  years  of 
age,  excepting  paupers  and  persons  not  paying  taxes,  is  entitled  to 
vote  in  the  place  of  his  residence. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  Governor  assisted  by  a  Council  of 
five  members,  and  a  Legislature,  divided  into  a  Senate  and  House  of 
Representatives,  all  chosen  annually  by  the  people  on  the  second 
Tuesday  of  March.  The  Secretary  of  State  and  Treasurer  are  chosen 
on  joint  ballot  by  the  Legislature  at  the  beginning  of  every  session  of 
that  body.  The  two  houses  of  the  Legislature  are  together  styled 
"  The  General  Court  of  New  Hampshire." 

There  is  a  Supreme  Judicial  Courty  the  highest  State  tribunal,  com- 
prised of  a  Chief  Justice,  and  five  Associate  Justices.  They  are  ap?- 
pointed  by  the  Governor  and  Council,  and  hold  office  during  good 
behavior.  The  State  is  divided,  for  convenience,  into  four  Judicial 
Districts.  There  is  also  a  Superior  Court  for  each  cowity,  and  a  local 
tribunal  for  each  city. 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE.  199 

For  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  ten  counties. 
The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Concord. 

HISTORY. 

New  Hampshire  was  first  settled  by  the  English,  at  Dover  and 
Portsmouth,  in  1623.  It  was  originally  a  part  of  Massachusetts,  but 
was  organized  as  a  separate  province,  with  its  present  name,  by  a 
royal  charter,  in  1679.  In  1689,  it  was  annexed  to  Massachusetts, 
and  was  afterwards  transferred  to  New  York.  It  was  erected  into  an 
independent  province  in  1741,  however,  and  has  since  maintained  a 
distinct  existence.  It  was  considerably  annoyed  in  its  early  years  by 
the  Indians,  who,  in  1689,  made  a  descent  upon  Dover,  burned  a 
part  of  the  town,  and  killed  a  number  of  the  inhabitants.  In  1776, 
the  State  declared  its  separate  independence  of  Great  Britain.  During 
the  Revolution,  it  made  liberal  contributions  of  men  and  money  to  the 
cause.  Its  troops  won  especial  credit  at  Stillwater,  Saratoga,  Mon- 
mouth,  and  Bennington.  It  adopted  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States  on  the  21st  of  June,  1788.  During  the  late  war,  it  contributed 
33,427  men  to  the  army  of  the  United  States.  Of  these,  5518  fell 
in  battle,  and  11,039  were  disabled  by  wounds  and  sickness. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns  of  New  Hampshire  are  Concord,  the 
capital  of  the  State,  Manchester,  Nashua,  Portsmouth,  Dover,  Somers- 
worth,  Keene,  Claremont,  Rochester,  Exeter,  Gilford,  Sanbornton, 
and  Great  Falls. 

CONCOKD, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Merrimac 
River,  20  miles  above  Manchester,  and  59  miles  northwest  from 
Boston.  It  extends  along  the  river  for  about  2  miles,  and  has  an 
average  width  of  about  half  a  mile.  Main  street,  the  principal 
thoroughfare,  is  2  miles  long,  and  150  feet  wide.  It  contains  the 
hotels  and  nearly  all  the  prominent  buildings. 

The  city  is  handsomely  built;  the  streets  are  broad,  and  well 
shaded  ;  and  the  entire  place  wears  an  air  of  comfort  and  refinement 
characteristic  of  New  England  towns. 

The  principal  building  is  the  State  House,  constructed  of  a  fine 
quality  of  native  granite,  and  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  park. 

Concord  is  the  seat  of  extensive  manufacture  the  falls  of  the  Mer- 


aoo 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


CONCORD  STATE  HOUSE. 

rimac  furnishing  excellent  water-power.  It  contains  9  churches,  sev- 
eral banks,  and  a  number  of  fine  private  buildings.  The  State  Lunatie 
Asylum  is  also  located  here.  Railroads  connect  it  with  Boston  and 
all  parts  of  the  Union,  and  with  Canada.  The  population  is  12,241. 
Four  newspapers  are  published  here. 

MANCHESTER, 

The  largest  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Hillsborough  county,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Merrimac  River,  18  miles  from  Concord,  and  59 
miles  from  Boston.  It  is  built  along  the  river,  on  an  elevated  plateau, 
about  90  feet  above  the  water.  Several  railroads  centre  here,  and 
afford  rapid  and  direct  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  country. 
The  city  is  well  laid  out,  having  broad  streets,  intersecting  each  other 
at  right  angles,  and  several  handsome  public  squares.  The  eastern 
section  is  built  almost  entirely  of  brick,  but  the  western  part  is  built 
of  wood.  It  contains  several  fine  buildings,  the  principal  of  which  is 
the  new  town  house,  or  city  hall.  The  more  elevated  portion  of  the 
place  is  occupied  by  residences  and  churches,  and  the  slope  between 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE.  201 

the  plateau  and  the  river  is  devoted  to  the  mills  and  the  dwellings 
of  the  operatives.  The  city  contains  a  good  public  library,  about  1 2 
churches,  about  24  public  schools,  besides  several  private  establish- 
ments, 3  or  4  banks,  and  7  newspaper  offices. 

Manchester  owes  its  importance  to  its  extensive  manufactures. 
Cotton,  woollen,  and  other  factories  are  numerous,  the  motive  power 
being  derived  from  a  series  of  rapids  in  the  Merrimac,  called  the 
Amoskeag  Falls.  The  river  here  makes  a  descent  of  54  feet  in  a 
mile,  and  dams  and  locks  have  been  constructed  at  the  head  of  the 
,  rapids,  by  which  the  water  is  conveyed  to  all  the  mills  in  the  city. 

Cotton  and  woollen  goods,  wrought  iron  goods  of  various  kinds, 
locomotives,  railroad  cars,  and  steam  fire-engines  constitute  the  prin- 
cipal manufactures,  and  give  employment  to  between  six  and  seven 
thousand  hands.  The  population  is  23,536. 

PORTSMOUTH, 

In  Rockinghani  county,  is  the  second  city,  and  only  seaport  in  the 
State.  It  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Piscataqua  River,  3 
miles  from  the  sea,  and  54  miles  northeast  of  Boston.  Several  rail- 
roads terminate  here,  and  others  pass  through  it,  leading  to  all  parts 
of  the  Union  and  Canada. 

The  city  is  built  upon  a  peninsula  near  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  upon  rising  ground,  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor.  It 
is  well  laid  off,  and  possesses  a  number  of  handsome  buildings.  It 
contains  a  public  library  of  over  10,000  volumes,  and  several  excellent 
literary  institutions.  It  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures,  is 
supplied  with  water,  and  is  lighted  with  gas. 

It  is  the  seat  of  an  active  foreign  and  coasting  trade,  which,  though 
not  so  large  as  formerly,  is  still  important.  The  fisheries  are  a  source 
of  considerable  profit  to  it,  as  they  lie  but  a  short  distance  from  it. 

The  harbor  of  Portsmouth  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world.  It  is 
completely  land-locked,  is  never  frozen,  and  is  accessible  to  the  largest 
ships.  Its  tides  are  high  and  rapid,  and  the  bottom  is  a  smooth  bed 
of  rock.  The  channel  at  low  water  is  40  feet  in  depth.  It  is  de- 
fended by  Fort  Constitution,  on  Great  Island ;  Fort  McClary,  oppo- 
site ;  Fort  Sullivan,  on  Trepethen  Island ;  and  Fort  Washington,  on 
Pierce's  Island.  It  is  estimated  that  the  harbor  is  sufficiently  capa- 
«ious  to  admit  with  ease  as  many  as  2000  vessels. 

The  city  is  connected  by  bridges  with  Newcastle,  on  Grand 
Island,  and  with  Kittery,  in  Maine,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Piscataqua. 


202  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  United  States  Navy  Yard  at  Kittery,  commonly  known  as 
the  Portsmouth  Navy  Yard,  is  one  of  the  principal  establishments  of 
the  Government,  and  the  greatest  attraction  of  the  place.  It  is  pro- 
vided with  a  splendid  dry  dock,  constructed  at  a  cost  of  $800,000, 
with  three  large  ship-houses,  and  all  the  appliances  necessary  to  the 
construction  of  the  largest  vessels  of  war.  Portsmouth  was  made  a 
naval  station  during  the  Revolution,  and  the  first  ship  of  the  line 
(the  North  America)  ever  constructed  in  the  New  World  was  laid 
down  here  during  that  struggle.  The  Kearsarge,  which  sunk  the 
Alabama  during  the  civil  war,  was  built  here. 

Portsmouth  contains  numerous  public  schools,  and  supports  4 
newspapers,  2  of  which  are  daily.  The  New  Hampshire  Gazette, 
published  here,  was  established  in  1756,  and  claims  to  be  the  oldest 
American  journal  now  in  existence.  The  population  is  11,000. 

DOVER, 

In  Strafford  county,  is  the  oldest  city  in  the  State.  It  is  situated  at 
the  lower  falls  of  the  Cocheco  River,  and  on  both  sides  of  that  stream. 
It  is  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation,  and  is  connected  with  all  parts 
of  the  country  by  railroad.  It  is  12  miles  northwest  of  Portsmouth, 
and  68  miles  north  of  Boston.  It  is  well  built,  and  regularly  laid 
off.  It  contains  several  handsome  buildings,  the  principal  of  which 
is  the  city  hall,  several  banks,  a  number  of  excellent  public  schools, 
10  churches,  and  2  good  hotels. 

The  falls  of  the  Cocheco  are  32  feet  high,  and  furnish  an  abundance 
of  excellent  water-power.  The  capital  invested  in  manufactures 
amounts  to  several  millions  of  dollars.  Cotton  and  woollen  goods, 
boots  and  shoes,  and  iron  ware  are  the.  principal  articles  produced. 
Shipbuilding  was  formerly  an  important  interest.  The  city  is  lighted 
with  gas,  and  contains  a  population  of  over  10,000. 

Dover  was  settled  by  a  company  from  England,  in  1623,  and  its 
early  years  were  marked  by  constant  trouble  with  the  savages.  In 
1688,  it  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  them.  Belknap,  in  his 
"  History  of  New  Hampshire,"  gives  the  following  account  of  this 
tragedy: 

In  that  part  of  the  town  of  Dover  which  lies  about  the  first  falls  in  the  rivei 
Cocheco,  were  five  garrisoned  houses;  three  on  the  north  side,  viz.,  Waldron's, 
Otis's  and  Heard's ;  and  two  on  the  south  side,  viz.,  Peter  Coffin's  and  his  son's. 
These  houses  were  surrounded  by  timber  walls,  the  gates  of  which,  as  well  as  the 
house  doors,  were  secured  with  bolts  and  bars.  The  neighboring  families  retired 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE.  203 

to  these  houses  by  night ;  but,  by  an  unaccountable  negligence,  no  watch  was 
kept.  The  Indians  who  were  daily  passing  through  the  town,  visiting  and  trad- 
ing with  the  inhabitants,  as  usual  in  time  of  peace,  viewed  their  situation  with 
an  attentive  eye.  Some  hints  of  a  mischievous  design  had  been  given  out  by 
their  squaws  ;  but  in  such  dark  and  ambiguous  terms  that  no  one  could  compre- 
hend their  meaning.  Some  of  the  people  were  uneasy  ;  but  Waldron,  who,  from 
a  long  course  of  experience,  was  intimately  acquainted  with  the  Indians,  and  on 
other  occasions  had  been  ready  enough  to  suspect  them,  was  now  so  thoroughly 
secure  that,  when  some  of  the  people  hinted  their  fears  to  him,  he  merrily  bade 
them  go  and  plant  their  pumpkins,  saying  that  he  would  tell  them  when  the  In- 
dians would  break  out.  The  very  evening  before  the  mischief  was  done,  being 
told  by  a  young  man  that  the  town  was  full  of  Indians  and  the  people  were  much 
concerned,  he  answered  that  he  knew  the  Indians  very  well  and  there  was  no 
danger. 

The  plan  which  the  Indians  had  preconcerted  was,  that  two  squaws  should  go 
to  each  of  the  garrisoned  houses  in  the  evening,  and  ask  leave  to  lodge  by  the 
fire ;  that  in  the  night,  when  the  people  were  asleep,  they  should  open  the  doors 
and  gates,  and  give  the  signal  by  a  whistle  ;  upon  which  the  strange  Indians,  who 
were  to  be  within  hearing,  should  rush  in,  and  take  their  long-meditated  revenge. 
This  plan  being  ripe  for  execution,  on  the  evening  of  Thursday,  the  27th  of  June, 
two  squaws  applied  to  each  of  the  garrisons  for  lodging,  as  they  frequently  did  in 
time  of  peace.  They  were  admitted  into  all  but  the  younger  Coffin's,  and  the 
people,  at  their  request,  showed  them  how  to  open  the  doors,  in  case  they  should 
have  occasion  to  go  out  in  the  night.  Mesandowit,  one  of  their  chiefs,  went  to 
Waldron' s  garrison,  and  was  kindly  entertained,  as  he  had  often  been  before. 
The  squaws  told  the  major  that  a  number  of  Indians  were  coming  to  trade  with 
him  the  next  day,  and  Mesandowit  while  at  supper,  with  his  usual  familiarity, 
said:  "Brother  Waldron,  what  would  you  do  if  the  strange  Indians  should 
come?"  The  major  carelessly  answered,  that  he  could  assemble  100  men  by 
lifting  up  his  finger.  In  this  unsuspecting  confidence  the  family  retired  to 
rest. 

When  all  was  quiet,  the  gates  were  opened  and  the  signal  given.  The  Indians 
entered,  set  a  guard  at  the  door,  and  rushed  into  the  major's  apartment,  which 
was  an  inner  room.  Awakened  by  the  noise,  he  jumped  out  of  bed,  and  though 
now  advanced  in  life  to  the  age  of  80  years,  he  retained  so  much  vigor  as  to 
drive  them  with  his  sword  through  two  or  three  doors  ;  but,  as  he  was  returning 
for  his  other  arms,  they  came  behind  him,  stunned  him  with  a  hatchet,  drew 
him  into  his  hall,  and,  seating  him  in  an  elbow  chair  on  a  long  table,  insultingly 
asked  him,  "  Who  shall  judge  Indians  now  ?  "  They  then  obliged  the  people  in 
the  house  to  get  them  some  victuals  ;  and  when  they  had  done  eating,  they  cut 
the  major  across  the  breast  and  belly  with  knives,  each  one  with  a  stroke,  say- 
ing, "I  cross  out  my  account."  They  then  cut  off  his  nose  and  ears,  forcing 
them  into  his  month  ;  and  when  spent  with  the  loss  of  blood,  he  was  falling  down 
from  the  table,  one  of  them  held  his  own  sword  under  him,  which  put  an  end  to 
his  misery.  They  also  killtd  his  son-in-law,  Abraham  Lee  ;  but  took  his  daughter 
Lee  with  several  others,  and  having  pillaged  the  house,  left  it  on  fire.  Otis'a 
garrison,  which  was  next  to  the  major's,  met  with  the  same  fate  ;  he  was  killed, 
with  several  others,  and  his  wife  and  child  were  captivated.  Heard's  was  saved 
by  the  barking  of  a  dog  just  as  the  Indians  were  entering:  Elder  Went  worth, 
who  was  awakened  by  the  noise,  pushed  them  out,  and  fairing  oh  his  backset 


204  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

his  feet  against  the  gate  and  held  it  till  he  had  alarmed  the  people  ;  two  balls 
were  fired  through  it,  but  both  missed  him.  Coffin's  house  was  surprised,  but  as 
the  Indians  had  no  particular  enmity  to  him,  they  spared  his  life,  and  the  lives 
of  his  family,  and  contented  themselves  with  pillaging  the  house.  Finding  a  bag 
of  money,  they  made  him  throw  it  by  handfuls  on  the  floor,  while  they  amused 
themselves  in  scrambling  for  it.  They  then  went  to  the  house  of  his  son,  who 
would  not  admit  the  squaws  in  the  evening,  and  summoned  him  to  surrender, 
promising  him  quarter.  He  declined  their  offer,  and  determined  to  defend  his 
house,  till  they  brought  out  his  father  and  threatened  to  kill  him  before  his  eyes. 
Filial  affection  then  overcame  his  resolution,  and  he  surrendered.  They  put  both 
families  together  into  a  deserted  house,  intending  to  reserve  them  for  prisoners; 
but  while  the  Indians  were  busy  in  plundering,  they  all  escaped. 

Twenty-three  people  were  killed  in  this  suprisal,  and  29  were  captivated  ;  5  or 
C  houses,  with  the  mills,  were  burned ;  and  so  expeditious  were  the  Indians  in 
the  execution  of  their  plot,  that  before  the  people  could  be  collected  from  the 
other  parts  of  the  town  to  oppose  them,  they  fled  with  their  prisoners  and  booty. 
As  they  passed  by  Heard' s  garrison  in  their  retreat,  they  fired  upon  it ;  but  the 
people  being  prepared  and  resolved  to  defend  it,  and  the  enemy  being  in  haste, 
it  was  preserved.  The  preservation  of  its  owner  was  more  remarkable. 

Elizabeth  Heard,  with  her  three  sons  and  a  daughter,  and  some  others,  were 
returning  in  the  night  from  Portsmouth.  They  passed  up  the  river  in  their  boat 
unperceived  by  the  Indians,  who  were  then  in  possession  of  the  houses  ;  but  sus- 
pecting danger  by  the  noise  which  they  heard,  after  they  had  landed,  they  betook 
themselves  to  Waldron's  garrison,  where  they  saw  lights,  which  they  imagined 
were  set  up  for  direction  to  those  who  might  be  seeking  a  refuge.  They  knocked 
and  begged  earnestly  for  admission ;  but  no  answer  being  given,  a  young  man 
of  the  company  climbed  up  the  wall,  and  saw,  to  his  inexpressible  surprise,  an 
Indian  standing  in  the  door  of  the  house,  with  his  gun.  The  woman  was  so 
overcome  with  the  fright  that  she  was  unable  to  fly,  but  begged  her  children  to 
shift  for  themselves  ;  and  they  with  heavy  hearts  left  her.  When  she  had  a  little 
recovered,  she  crawled  into  some  bushes,  and  lay  there  till  daylight.  She  then 
perceived  an  Indian  coming  toward  her  with  a  pistol  in  his  hand  ;  he  looked  at 
her  and  went  away  :  returning,  he  looked  at  her  again  ;  and  she  asked  him  what 
he  would  have ;  he  made  no  answer,  but  ran  yelling  to  the  house,  and  she  saw 
him  no  more.  She  kept  her  place  till  the  house  was  burned,  and  the  Indians 
were  gone  ;  and  then  returning  home,  found  her  own  house  safe.  Her  preserva- 
tion in  these  dangerous  circumstances  was  more  remarkable,  if  (as  it  is  supposed) 
it  was  an  instance  of  justice  and  gratitude  in  the  Indians.  For  at  the  time  when 
the  four  or  five  hundred  were  seized,  in  1676,  a  young  Indian  escaped  and  took 
refuge  in  her  house,  where  she  concealed  him  ;  in  return  for  which  kindness  he 
promised  her  that  he  would  never  kill  her,  nor  any  of  her  family,  in  any  future 
war,  and  that  he  would  use  his  influence  with  the  other  Indians  to  the  same  pur- 
pose. This  Indian  was  one  of  the  party  who  surprised  the  place,  and  she  was 
well  known  to  the  most  of  them.  / 


VERMONT. 

Area, 10,212  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 315,098 

Population  in  1870, 330,552 

THE  State  of  Vermont  lies  between  latitude  42°  44'  and  45°  N., 
and  longitude  71°  33'  and  73°  25'  W.,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Canada  East,  on  the  east  by  New  Hampshire,  on  the  south  by 
Massachusetts,  and  on  the  west  by  Lake  Champlain  and  the  State  of 
New  York.  It  is  150  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  85  miles  wide 
from  east  to  west  in  its  northern  part,  and  35  miles  wide  from  east  to 
west  at  its  southern  boundary. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  of  the  State  is  greatly  diversified  by  hill  and  valley. 
The  Green  Mountains  extend  in  a  direction  almost  from  north  to 
south,  throughout  its  entire  length,  dividing  it  into  two  unequal  por- 
tions. Just  below  Montpelier,  the  capital,  this  ridge  divides  into  two 
portions,  one  of  which,  the  higher,  extends  in  a  northern  direction  to 
the  Canada  line.  The  other,  although  lower,  is  continuous,  and  fol- 
lows the  line  of  the  Connecticut  River,  though  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  it,  to  the  northeast  corner  of  the  State.  The  eastern  ridge 
is  broken  in  several  places  by  the  passage  of  the  Onion,  Lamoille, 
and  Missisque  rivers.  South  of  this  division,  the  range  is  not  broken 
by  any  stream.  The  Green  Mountains  are  among  the  most  picturesque 
and  beautiful  in  the  Union,  and  offer  many  attractions  to  the  tourist. 
The  highest  peaks  are  Mount  Mansfield,  4360  feet  above  the  sea, 
CamePs  Rump,  4188  feet,  Killington's,  3675  feet,  and  Ascutney  Moun- 
tain, near  the  Connecticut  River,  3320  feet.  The  southern  part  of  the 
range  divides  the  tributaries  of  the  Hudson  from  those  of  the  Con- 

205 


206  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

necticut.  The  mountains  are  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  the 
evergreen  fir,  spruce,  and  hemlock,  which  give  them  always  a  rich 
hue  of  dark  green,  from  which  their  name  is  derived. 

Lake  Champlain,  the  largest  over  which  the  State  has  any  jurisdic- 
tion, lies  between  Vermont  and  New  York,  and  belongs  principally 
to  the  latter  State ;  but,  for  convenience,  will  be  described  here.  It 
extends  from  Whitehall,  in  New  York,  northward,  a  few  miles  be- 
yond the  Canada  line.  It  is  130  miles  long,  varies  in  width  from 
half  a  mile  to  10  miles,  and  is  from  50  to  280  feet  deep.  A  line,  run 
from  Vermont  to  New  York  across  the  principal  island  of  the  lake, 
would  measure  15  miles.  It  receives  the  waters  of  Lakes  George  and 
Wood,  and  of  the  Saranac,  Chazy,  Au  Sable,  Missisquoi,  and  Wi- 
nooski  rivers,  and  discharges  itself  through  the  Richelieu  River  into 
the  St.  Lawrence.  On  the  New  York  side  the  shores  are  rocky, 
mountainous  and  sterile ;  but  the  Vermont  shore  is  very  productive, 
and  is  highly  cultivated.  The  scenery  of  the  lake  is  wild  and  beau- 
tiful, the  view  ranging,  in  fair  weather,  as  far  back  as  the  Green  Moun- 
tains in  Vermont,  and  the  Adirondacks  in  New  York.  The  waters 
are  clear  and  abound  in  fish.  Steamers  ply  daily  between  the  upper 
and  lower  ends  of  the  lake.  By  means  of  canals  there  is  uninter- 
rupted navigation,  except  during  the  season  of  ice,  between  Lake 
Champlain  and  the  Atlantic,  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  Hudson  River. 
The  commerce  of  the  lake  is  estimated  at  over  $30,000,000  annually. 
About  200,000  tons  of  shipping  and  12,000  men  are  employed 
in  this  trade.  Navigation  is  usually  closed  between  the  last  of  No- 
vember and  the  first  of  April. 

There  are  a  number  of  islands  in  the  lake,  the  principal  of  which 
are  Grand  Isle,  South  Hero,  and  North  Hero,  all  belonging  to  Ver- 
mont. The  principal  towns  belonging  to  Vermont  tire  Swanton, 
Burlington,  Charlotte,  and  Ferrisburg. 

Lake  Champlain  was  discovered  by  Samuel  Champlain,  a  French 
naval  officer,  in  1609.  Important  events  occurred  on  its  waters  dur- 
ing the  Revolution,  and  in  the  war  of  1812-15,  a  British  army  and 
fleet  were  routed  at  Plattsburg,  on  the  New  York  shore. 

Lake  Memphramagog,  which  lies  almost  entirely  in  Canada,  indents 
a  portion  of  northern  Vermont.  The  other  lakes  are  Dunmore,  Aus- 
tin, Bombazine,  and  Long  Pond. 

The  Connecticut  River  separates  the  State  from  New  Hampshire. 
The  other  streams  are  the  Otter  Creek,  Onion,  Lamoille,  and  Mis- 
sisque.  They  are  insignificant  in  length,  but  furnish  good  water-power. 


VERMONT.  20T 


MINERALS. 

Iron  is  found  in  considerable  quantities  in  the  Green  Mountains, 
and  there  are  deposits  of  bog-ore  in  various  parts  of  the  State.  A 
brownish  coal  is  found  in  Brandon.  Sulphuret  of  iron  is  found  near 
Strafford,  and  is  used  in  making  copperas,  of  which  large  quantities  are 
produced.  Granite  and  marble,  the  latter  of  a  most  excellent  quality, 
abound.  Slate  quarries  are  numerous,  and  manganese  is  found  in 
considerable  quantities  near  Rutland.  The  other  minerals  are  tita- 
nium, oxide  of  manganese,  lead,  magnetic  iron  ore,  plumbago,  copper 
and  zinc.  Traces  of  gold  are  very  decided  in  the  towns  of  Stowe  and 
Bridgewater. 

CLIMATE. 

Being  sheltered  from  the  breezes  which  sweep  over  the  other  New 
England  States  from  the  ice  fields  of  the  Atlantic,  Vermont  has  an 
even  temperature,  which  renders  it  one  of  the  healthiest  States  in  the 
Union.  The  thermometer  ranges  from  17°  below  zero  to  92°  above. 
The  winters  begin  about  December,  and  continue  until  near  the  mid- 
dle of  April.  They  are  severe,  as  well  as  long.  The  summers  are 
brief,  but  pleasant.  Frost  begins  to  appear  in  September,  snow  about 
the  last  of  November. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  valleys  of  Vermont  are  fertile,  the  lands  along  the  river  bot- 
toms being  excellent.  The  mountain  slopes  are  used  extensively  for 
pasture,  and  large  quantities  of  maple  sugar  are  produced  every  year 
in  the  uplands. 

.     In  1869,  there  were  2,823,157  acres  of  improved  land  in  the  State, 
and  1,337,682  of  unimproved  land. 

The  remainder  of  the  agricultural  wealth  of  Vermont,  at  the  present 
time,  may  be  stated  as  follows : 

Cash  value  of  farms,    .    .     • $91,511,673 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery,  .  $3,554,728 

Number  of  horses, 71,840 

asses  and  mules, 120 

milch  cows, 190,420 

other  cattle, 230,300 

sheep, 997,890 

swine, •    .    .    .     .  81,450 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $19,241,989 


208  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Bushels  of  wheat, 766,000 

rye,  155,000 

Indian  corn, 1,475,000 

oats, 5,050,000 

Irish  potatoes, •  .  5,750,000 

barley 102,000 

buckwheat, 231,000 

grass  seed, 12,000 

Pounds  of  wool, 3,000,000 

butter, 15,900,359 

cheese,  .  .  .  ; 8,215,030 

maple  sugar  (estimated),  ....  10,000,000 

beeswax  and  honey  (estimated),  .  .  212,905 

Tons  of  hay  (estimated),      . 1,100,000 

Value  of  orchard  products  (estimated),   .    .     .  $198,427 

market  garden  products  (estimated),  $24,792 

"          home-made  manufactures,     "         .  $63,295 

COMMERCE. 

Being  an  inland  State  without  navigable  rivers,  Vermont  conducts 
its  commerce  connected  with  navigation  exclusively  by  way  of  Lake 
Champlain.  During  the  year  1862,  the  foreign  exports  amounted  to 
$736,663,  and  the  imports  to  $2,567,892.  The  entrances  for  the 
same  year  reached  22,012  tons,  and  the  clearances  to  23,281.  Of  this 
amount,  6067  tons  were  owned  in  the  State. 

MANUFACTURES. 

Vermont  has  the  best  water-power  of  any  New  England  State,  but 
is  not  as  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures  as  the  others,  the  prin- 
cipal pursuit  of  her  people  being  agriculture.  According  to^the  census 
of  1860,  there  were  1501  establishments  in  Vermont  devoted  to 
manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  These  employed  a 
capital  of  $9,500,000,  and  10,800  hands,  consumed  raw  material 
worth  $8,110,000,  and  returned  an  annual  product  of  $16,000,000. 
The  cotton  manufactures  were  valued  at  $357,400 ;  woollen  manu- 
factures at  $1,820,769;  leather  manufactures  at  $2,550,000;  pig  iron 
at  $92,910;  rolled  iron  at  $63,250;  steam  engines  and  machinery  at 
$493,836;  agricultural  implements  at  $157,647;  sawed  and  planed 
lumber  at  $1,060,000 ;  flour  at  $1,660,000. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

Vermont  is  crossed  by  several  lines  of  railway,  connecting  the  prin- 
cipal towns  with  the  cities  of  New  Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  New 


VERMONT.  209 

York,  Connecticut,  and  Canada.  In  1872,  there  were  675  miles  of 
railway  completed  in  the  State.  Rutland  is  the  great  railroad 
centre. 

EDUCATION. 

The  State  makes  a  liberal  provision  for  the  education  of  the  young. 
In  1870,  there  were  2750  public  or  district  schools  in  operation,  at- 
tended by  72,950  pupils,  the  average  attendance  being  about  47,000. 
The  number  of  teachers  was  4239,  and  the  amount  spent  for  educa- 
tional purposes  was  about  $425,000.  There  are  also  three  Normal 
schools  in  the  State,  one  in  each  Congressional  district,  subject  to  the 
control  of  the  State  Board  of  Education.  Two  courses  of  study  are 
taught  in  these  schools.  Those  who  graduate  in  the  first  course  receive 
a  certificate,  which  is,  by  a  law  of  the  State,  a  licence  to  teach  any- 
where in  Vermont  for  five  years.  Graduates  from  the  second  course 
receive  certificates  licensing  them  to  teach  in  the  State  for  fifteen  years. 

Besides  the  public  schools,  there  were,  in  the  year  1867,  348  private 
schools,  attended  by  9264  pupils,  and  58  academies. 

The  colleges  are  3  in  number,  the  University  of  Vermont,  at 
Burlington,  founded  in  1791,  Middlebury  College,  at  Middlebury, 
founded  in  1800,  and  Norwich  University  (partly  military  in  its  or- 
ganization), founded  in  1834. 

There  were,  in  1870,  47  newspapers  published  in  the  State,  3  daily, 
43  weekly,  and  one  monthly. 

PUBLIC   INSTITUTIONS. 

The  public  institutions  of  Vermont  are  the  Insane  Asylum,  the 
Reform  School,  and  the  State  Prison. 

The  Insane  Asylum  is  located  at  Brattleboro'.  It  is  surrounded  by 
a  large  farm,  and  has  ample  buildings,  which  were  burned  in  1862, 
but  are  now  being  replaced.  It  is  under  the  supervision  of  the  Com- 
missioner of  the  Insane,  who  is  appointed  by  the  Legislature  annually 
for  the  purpose  of  inspecting  and  reporting  upon  the  affairs  of  the 
asylum.  In  1867,  there  were  646  inmates  of  the  asylum.  The  in- 
stitution is  in  a  large  measure  sustained  by  the  labor  of  its  inmates. 

The  Reform  School,  established  in  1865,  is  located  at  Waterbury. 
It  has  a  farm  of  133  acres  attached  to  it,  and  is  provided  with  excel- 
lent workshops.     It  is  in   a  flourishing  condition.     In  September, 
1868,  there  were  57  inmates  remaining. 
14 


210  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  State  Prison  was  established  in  1807,  and  is  located  at  Wind- 
sor. It  is  governed  by  a  Board  consisting  of  a  Superintendent  and 
three  Directors,  chosen  annually  by  the  Legislature.  It  is  almost 
self-supporting.  The  labor  of  the  convicts  is  let,  by  agreement,  at  42 
cents  per  head,  per  day,  for  a  term  of  five  years.  The  commutation 
system  has  been  introduced  with  great  success.  In  September,  1870, 
there  were  94  convicts  still  in  prison. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  Vermont  was  $3,713,530. 
The  number  of  churches  was  744. 

FINANCES. 

The  funded  debt  of  the  State  is  $1,045,500.  The  unadjusted  bal- 
ance still  due  the  State  by  the  General  Government  on  account  of 
the  war  is  $207,222.  The  receipts  of  the  treasury  for  the  fiscal  year, 
ending  in  September,  1868,  were  $709,548.96,  and  the  expenditures 
were  $682,993.95. 

In  September,  1868,  there  were  40  National  banks  in  Vermont, 
with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $6,560,012. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  adult,  either  a  native  born  or  naturalized  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  who  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  can  take 
the  oath  prescribed  by  the  Constitution  of  Vermont,  is  entitled  to 
vote  in  the  State  elections. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor,  who 
is  the  President  of  the  Senate,  and  a  Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate 
and  House  of  Representatives,  chosen  annually  by  the  people.  The 
Senate  consists  of  30  and  the  House  of  241  members.  There  is  also 
a  Secretary  of  State,  a  State  Treasurer,  and  an  Auditor  of  Accounts. 

The  judiciary  department  of  the  Government  consists  of  a  Supreme 
Court,  a  Court  of  Chancery,  a  County  Court  in  each  county,  a  Probate 
Court  in  each  probate  district,  and  one  or  more  justices  of  the  peace 
in  each  town. 

"The  Supreme  Court  has  no  original  jurisdiction,  except  for  divorce; 
but  is  a  court  of  errors  for  the  trial  of  questions  at  law,  and  a  court 
of  appeal  in  chancery  suits.  Each  judge  of  the  Supreme  Court  is  a 
Chancellor,  and  holds  his  court  at  the  same  time  as  the  County  Court, 


VERMONT.  211 

which  is  held  in  each  county  by  one  of  the  Supreme  Judges  and  two 
Assistant  Judges.  The  County  Courts  have  original  jurisdiction  in 
all  civil  actions  for  over  $200,  or  in  relation  to  real  estate,  except 
trespass,  where  the  damages  claimed  exceed  $20 ;  also  in  actions  for 
replevin  for  amounts  over  $20.  All  actions  out  of  the  original  juris- 
diction of  the  County  and  Chancery  Courts,  except  for  divorce,  must 
be  brought  before  a  justice  of  the  peace." 

The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  one  Chief  Judge  and  five  Assistant 
Judges.  . 

For  the  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  14 
counties.  The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Montpelier. 

HISTORY. 

Vermont  was  first  discovered  and  partly  explored  by  Samuel  Cham- 
plain,  a  French  officer,  in  1609.  It  was  first  settled  by  the  English, 
who  founded  Fort  Dummer,  on  the  present  site  of  Brattleboro',  in 
1724.  The  territory  was  then  believed  to  be  a  part  of  Massachusetts. 
By  the  year  1768,  138  townships  had  been  settled.  These  settlements 
were  made  under  the  authority  of  the  Governor  of  New  Hampshire, 
who  claimed  the  territory  as  a  part  of  his  province  by  virtue  of  the 
original  charter  of  New  Hampshire.  In  1763,  a  controversy  arose 
between  New  York  and  New  Hampshire,  the  former  laying  claim  to 
the  territory.  An  appeal  was  made  to  the  king,  in  1764,  who  granted 
to  New  York  jurisdiction  to  the  Connecticut  River.  New  Hampshire 
acquiesced  in  this  decision,  and  the  authorities  of  New  York  "  at- 
tempted to  eject  and  dispossess  the  settlers  from  their  lands,  and 
through  venal  judges  decided  every  case  against  them.  This  roused 
the  spirit  of  the  settlers  to  such  a  degree,  that  they  commenced,  under 
the  leadership  of  Ethan  Allen,  Seth  Warner,  and  other  bold  and  fear- 
less men,  an  armed  resistance  to  the  oppression  of  the  New  York 
Government ;  every  officer  who  undertook  to  enforce  a  process  of 
ejection  was  stripped,  tied  to  a  tree,  and  whipped  with  beechen  rods 
without  mercy.  This  application  of  the  '  beech  seal/  as  it  was  called, 
was  so  effectual  that  no  officers  could  be  procured  to  serve  writs." 
The  contest  went  on  for  ten  years.  Finally  the  Governor  of  New 
York  issued  a  proclamation  offering  a  reward  for  the  capture  of  the 
Vermont  leaders,  who  retorted  by  offering  a  reward  for  the  capture 
of  the  Attorney  General  of  New  York.  The  Revolution  began  at 
this  juncture,  and  suspended  the  controversy.  The  Vermont  leaders 
did  good  service  in  the  cause  of  the  Colonies.  Allen,  with  his  owi 


212  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

company  of  83  men,  surprised  and  captured  the  important  post  of 
Ticonderoga,  in  May,  1775.  In  the  invasion  of  Canada,  he  behaved 
gallantly  and  was  made  prisoner,  while  the  Vermont  regiment,  under 
Seth  Warner,  covered  the  retreat  from  Quebec,  and  compelled  the 
surrender  of  the  enemy's  garrison  at  St.  John's.  The  "Green 
Mountain  Boys"  made  a  brilliant  name  during  the  war,  especially  in 
the  battles  on  Lake  Champlain,  in  which  nothing  but  their  neroic 
resistance  saved  the  American  force  from  total  annihilation.  Their 
victory  at  Bennington  decided  the  fate  of  Burgoyne's  army. 

In  1 776,  Vermont  petitioned  the  Continental  Congress  for  admis- 
sion into  the  Confederacy  of  the  States,  but  her  petition  was  rejected 
at  the  instance  of  New  York.  The  next  year,  Vermont  declared  her 
independence,  and  in  July  made  a  second  effort  to  secure  admission 
into  the  Confederacy.  Congress  evaded  a  direct  reply.  The  British 
now  made  strong  overtures  to  Vermont  to  renew  her  allegiance  to  the 
Crown,  but  the  Green  Mountain  leaders  put  the  royal  agents  off  with 
a  vague  reply,  which  was  meant  to  encourage  them  to  an  extent  suffi- 
cient to  save  the  province  from  invasion  by  them  till  the  answer  of 
Congress  should  be  known. 

In  1781,  Congress  offered  to  admit  Vermont  if  she  would  consent 
to  a  curtailment  of  her  territory,  but  she  refused  the  offer.  For  eight 
years,  she  continued  to  occupy  her  anomalous  position.  In  1790, 
New  York,  wishing  to  settle  the  old  dispute  with  her,  revived  her 
claim  to  the  territory,  but  offered  to  compromise  it  on  payment  of 
$30,000.  The  offer  was  finally  accepted,  and  the  long  difficulty  set- 
tled. On  the  4th  of  March,  1791,  Vermont  was  admitted  into  the 
Union  as  a  State — making  the  fourteenth  member  of  th£  Confederacy, 
and  the  first  admitted  under  the  Constitution. 

In  1814,  the  State  contributed  a  portion  of  the  army  which  won 
the  battle  of  Plattsburg. 

In  1837,  during  the  Canadian  Rebellion,  considerable  sympathy 
.,vas  shown  for  the  rebels  by  the  people  of  Vermont,  and  some  600 
men  went  into  Canada,  to  take  part  in  the  struggle.  Upon  the  ap- 
proach of  a  British  force  sent  against  them,  they  withdrew  into  their 
own  State  and  surrendered  their  arms  to  the  United  States  authorities. 

During  the  late  war,  on  the  19th  of  October,  1863,  a  descent  was 
made  upon  the  town  of  St.  Albans  by  a  party  of  Confederates  from 
Canada,  who  seized  the  funds  in  the  bank,  amounting  to  $211,150, 
and  committed  some  depredations  upon  the  town.  They  were  pur- 
sued by  the  citizens,  and  the  whole  party  finally  captured  by  the 
pursuers  or  by  the  Canadian  authorities. 


VERMONT. 


213 


MONTPELIER. 

% 

The  State  contributed  to  the  army  of  the  Union,  during  the  war, 
a  force  amounting  to  34,655  men.  Of  these  5128  were  killed, 
a  similar  number  were  discharged,  and  others  were  permanently 
disabled. 


CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  principal  towns  and  cities  of  the  State  are  Montpelier,  the 
capital,  Burlington,  Brattleboro',  Rutland,  St.  Albans,  and  Ben- 
nington. 

MONTPELIER, 

The  capital  of  Vermont,  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Onion  River,  near  the  centre  of  the  State,  about  200  miles  northwest 
of  Boston.  It  is  a  pretty  little  city,  well  built,  and  conducts  an  active 
and  valuable  trade  with  the  surrounding  country.  It  is  on  the  main 
line  of  travel  between  Boston  and  Montreal,  in  Canada,  and  is  thus 
immediately  connected  with  the  great  railroad  system  of  the  country. 


214  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

It  became  the  capital  of  the  State  in  1805,  and  now  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  over  3000. 

The  State  House  fronts  on  State  street,  and  is  a  splendid  edifice  of 
native  granite.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  has  a  fine  portico  sup- 
ported by  massive  columns,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  dome  the  apex 
of  which  is  100  feet  from  the  ground. 

Montpelier  contains  several  flourishing  schools,  2  banks,  and  5 
churches.  Six  newspapers  are  published  here. 

BURLINGTON, 

In  Chittenden  county,  is  the  largest  city  in  the  State.  It  is  situated 
on  the  east  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  40  miles  northwest  of  Mont- 
pelier, and  about  midway  down  the  lake.  The  surrounding  country 
abounds  in  magnificent  scenery. 

"  Splendor  of  landscape,"  says  Dr.  D wight,  "  is  the  peculiar  boast 
of  Burlington.  Lake  Champlain,  here  16  miles  wide,  extends  50 
miles  northward,  and  40  southward,  before  it  reaches  Crown  Point, 
and  throughout  a  great  part  of  this  magnificent  expansion  is  visible 
at  Burlington.  In  its  bosom  are  encircled  many  beautiful  islands ; 
3  of  them,  North  and  South  Hero,  and  La  Motte,  sufficiently  large 
to  contain,  the  first  and  last,  1  township  each,  the  other  2 ;  forming, 
together  with  the  township  of  Alburgh,  cm  the  point  between  the  bay 
of  Misciscoui  and  the  river  St.  John,  the  county  of  Grand  Isle.  A 
numerous  train  of  these  islands  is  here  in  full  view.  In  the  interior, 
among  the  other  interesting  objects,  the  range  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
with  its  train  of  lofty  summits,  commences  in  the  south  with  the  ut- 
most stretch  of  the  eye ;  and  limiting,  on  the  east,  one-third  of  'the 
horizon,  declines  far  northward,  until  it  becomes  apparently  blended 
with  the  surface.  On  the  west,  beyond  the  immense  field  of  glass, 
formed  by  the  waters  of  the  lake,  extends  the  opposite  shore  from  its 
first  appearance  at  the  south,  until  it  vanishes  from  the  eye  in  the 
northwest,  at  the  distance  of  40  miles.  Twelve  or  15  miles  from 
this  shore  ascends  the  first  range  of  western  mountains;  about  15  or 
20  miles  further,  the  second  range ;  and  at  about  the  same  distance 
the  third.  The  two  former  commence  a  few  miles  south  of  the  head 
of  Lake  George ;  one  on  the  eastern,  and  the  other  on  the  western 
side  of  this  water.  Where  the  third  commences,  I  am  ignorant.  The 
termination  of  all  these  ranges  is  not  far  from  the  latitude  of  Platts- 
burg.  The  prospect  of  these  mountains  is  superlatively  noble.  The 
rise  of  the  first  range  from  the  lake,  the  ascent  of  the  second  far  above 


VERMONT.  -215 

it,  and  the  still  loftier  elevation  of  the  third,  diffuse  a  magnificence 
over  the  whole,  which  mocks  description.  Three  of  the  summits, 
hitherto  without  a  name,  are  peculiarly  distinguished  for  their  sub- 
limity. Among  those  of  the  Green  Mountains  there  are  two,  in  the 
fullest  view  from  this  spot,  superior  even  to  these.  One  of  them, 
named  the  Gamers  Rump,  the  Camel's  Back,  and  the  Camel ;  the 
other  the  Mountain  of  Mansfield.  The  latter  of  these  was  by  the  fol- 
lowing expedient  proved,  not  long  since,  to  be  higher  than  the  former. 
A  hunter,  who  had  ascended  to  its  highest  point,  put  into  his  piece  a 
small  ball ;  and  pointing  it  to  the  apex  of  the  Camel,  the  ball  rolled 
out.  Both  of  them  are,  however,  very  lofty;  higher,  as  I  believe, 
than  Killington  Peak,  notwithstanding  the  deference  with  which  I 
regard  the  estimates  of  Doctor  Williams.  The  peculiar  form  of  the 
Camel's  Back  invests  this  mountain  with  a  sublimity  entirely  superior 
to  any  other  in  the  State." 

The  city  is  built  on  rising  ground,  which  becomes  more  elevated 
as  it  recedes  from  the  lake,  being  quite  low  immediately  at  the  water*. 
The  harbor  has  been  deepened  and  enlarged  by  the  General  Govern- 
ment, and  a  breakwater  constructed  for  its  protection.  Two  railroads 
centre  here,  and  afford  direct  communication  with  Montreal,  Boston, 
New  York  City,  and  Albany.  An  important  trade  is  carried  on  upon 
the  lake.  About  7000  tons  of  shipping  and  several  steamers  are 
owned  here. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  off,  and  handsomely  built.  The  streets 
intersect  each  other  at  right  angles,  extend  back  from  the  lake  for 
more  than  a  mile,  and  are  well  shaded.  A  handsome  public  square 
occupies  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  upon  this  front  the  court  house, 
the  principal  hotels,  and  the  most  prominent  stores.  Nearly  all  the 
houses  have  tasteful  yards  attached  to  them.  Many  have  extensive 
grounds,  planted  with  handsome  shrubbery.  The  city  contains  4 
banks,  a  number  of  churches,  and  3  newspaper  offices.  The  popula- 
tion is  about  14387. 

The  University  of  Vermont  occupies  a  commanding  eminence  at  the 
eastern  end  of  the  city.  It  was  founded  in  1791,  and  is  liberally  en- 
dowed. It  occupies  four  spacious  and  handsome  buildings,  and  from 
the  dome  of  the  central  edifice  a  view  of  unsurpassed  beauty  may  be 
obtained. 

RUTLAND, 

In  Rutland  county,  in  the  southwest  part  of  the  State,  is  the  second 
city  in  Vermont.  It  is  situated  on  Otter  Creek,  55  miles  southwest 


216 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


RUTLAND. 

of  Montpelier,  and  67  miles  southeast  of  Burlington.  It  is  an  im- 
portant railroad  centre,  four  lines  converging  here,  and  leading  t;o  all 
parts  of  the  country.  It  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  pic- 
turesque region,  Killington  Peak  forming  the  leading  feature  of  the 
landscape.  The  city  is  well  laid  out,  and  neatly  built.  It  contains 
several  churches,  a  number  of  schools,  public  and  private,  2  banks, 
and  3  newspaper  offices.  It  possesses  an  important  trade  with  the 
surrounding  country,  and  contains  several  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. The  population  is  9834.  Rutland  is  growing  with  marked 
rapidity,  and  will  soon  be  one  of  the  most  important  cities  in  New 
England. 

BEKNTNGTON, 

In  the  county  of  the  same  name,  in  the  extreme  southwest  part  of  the 
State,  is  a  thriving  town  of  2500  inhabitants. 

It  is  famous  as  being  the  scene  of  the  battle  of  Bennington,  fought 
August  16th,  1777,  when  a  detachment  of  Burgoyne's  army,  under 


VERMONT.  217 

Colonel  Bau me,  was  terribly  beaten  by  the  "  Green  Mountain  Boys," 
led  by  General  Stark.  The  following  account  of  the  engagement  is 
taken  from  a  popular  publication  : 

John  Stark,  the  hero  of  Bennington,  was  a  native  of  New  Hampshire.  At  an 
early  age  he  enlisted  in  a  company  of  rangers,  participated  in  several  conflicts 
with  the  savages,  and  at  last  fell  into  their  hands,  a  prisoner  of  war.  Redeemed 
by  his  friends  for  $103,  he  joined  Rogers'  rangers,  and  served  with  distinction 
through  the  French  and  Indian  difficulty.  When  the  news  carne  to  his  quiet 
home,  that  American  blood  had  been  spilt  upon  the  green  at  Lexington,  he  rallied 
his  countrymen,  and  hurried  on  to  Boston  with  800  brave  mountaineers.  Ho 
presented  himself  before  the  American  commander  on  the  eve  of  the  battle  of 
Bunker  Hill,  and  receiving  a  colonel's  commission,  instantly  hurried  to  the  in- 
trenchmeuts. 

Throughout  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  Stark  and  his  New  Hampshire  men 
nobly  sustained  the  honor  of  the  patriot  cause,  and  no  troops  exceeded  in  bravery 
the  militia  regiment  of  Colonel  John  Stark.  In  the  spring  of  1776,  he  went  to 
Canada,  and  at  the  battle  of  Trenton  he  commanded  the  right  wing  of  Washing- 
ton's army.  He  was  at  Princeton,  Bennington,  and  several  other  severe  battles, 
always  sustaining  his  reputation,  as  a  brave,  honorable,  sterling  patriot,  and  an 
able  general.  He  was  a  great  favorite  of  General  Washington,  and  very  popular 
in  the  army.  On  the  8th  of  May,  1822,  aged  93  years,  he  "was  gathered  to  his 
fathers,  "and  his  remains  repose  upon  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Merrimac,  beneath 
a  monument  of  granite,  which  bears  the  inscription — "MAJOR-GENERAL  STARK." 

Having  given  a  very  brief  sketch  of  the  celebrated  officer  who  led  our  patriot 
militia  upon  the  field  of  Bennington,  we  will  proceed  with  the  account  of  that 
battle. 

The  magnificent  army  of  General  Burgoyne,  which  invaded  the  States  in  1777, 
having  become  straitened  for  provisions  and  stores,  the  royal  commander 
ordered  a  halt,  and  sent  Colonel  Baume,  a  Hessian  officer,  to  scour  the  country 
for  supplies.  Baume  took  a  strong  force  of  British  infantry,  two  pieces  of  artil- 
lery, and  a  squadron  of  heavy  German  dragoons.  A  great  body  of  Indians,  hired 
and  armed  by  the  British,  followed  his  force,  or  acted  as  scouts  and  flanking 
parties. 

Stark,  on  the  intelligence  of  Burgoyne's  invasion,  was  offered  the  command 
of  one  of  two  regiments  of  troops  which  were  raised  in  New  Hampshire,  through 
the  exertions,  chiefly,  of  John  Langdon,  Speaker  of  the  General  Assembly. 
Stark  had  served  for  a  long  period  as  General,  but  at  that  time  was  at  home,  a 
private  citizen.  But  at  the  call  of  his  countrymen  he  again  took  the  field.  The 
two  regiments  were  soon  raised,  and  with  them,  as  senior  officer,  Stark  hastened 
to  oppose  the  British  army.  At  that  time  the  Vermont  militia  were  enrolled  into 
an  organization,  called  the  "Berkshire  Regiment,"  under  Colonel  Warner. 

On  arriving  near  Bennington,  Stark  sent  forward  Colonel  Gregg,  with  a  small 
force  to  reconnoitre,  but  that  officer  soon  returned  with  the  information  that  a 
strong  force  of  British,  Hessians  and  Indians  was  rapidly  approaching.  Upon 
this  intelligence,  Stark  resolved  to  stand  his  ground  and  give  battle.  Messengers 
were  sent  at  once  to  the  Berkshire  militia  to  hurry  on,  and  the  patriots  were 
directed  to  see  that  their  weapons  were  in  good  order.  This  was  on  the  14th  of 
August,  1777.  During  the  day,  Baume  and  his  army  appeared,  and  learning 
that  the  militia  were  collecting  in  front  of  his  route,  the  commander  ordered  his 


218  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

army  to  halt,  and  throw  up  intrenchments.  An  express  was  also  sent  to  General 
Bnrgoyne  for  reinforcements. 

The  15th  was  dull  and  rainy.  Both  armies  continued  their  preparations,  while 
waiting  for  reinforcements.  Skirmishing  was  kept  up  all  day  and  night,  between 
the  militia  and  the  Indians,  and  the  latter  suffered  so  severely,  that  a  great  por- 
tion of  the  savage  force  left  the  field,  saying  that  "the  woods  were  full  of  Yan- 
kees." About  12  o'clock  on  the  night  of  the  15th,  a  party  of  Berkshire  militia 
came  into  the  American  camp.  At  the  head  of  one  company,  was  the  Reverend 
Mr.  Allen,  of  Pittsfield,  and  that  worthy  gentleman  appeared  full  of  zeal  to  meet 
the  enemy.  Sometime  before  daylight,  he  called  on  General  Stark,  and  said : 
"  General,  the  people  of  Berkshire  county  have  often  been  called  out,  without 
being  allowed  to  fight,  and  if  you  don't  give  them  a  chance,  they  have  resolved 
never  to  turn  out  again."  "Very  well,"  replied  Stark,  "do  you  want  to  go  at 
it  now,  while  it  is  dark  and  rainy  ?"  "No,  not  just  at  this  moment,"  said  the 
warlike  minister.  "Then,"  said  the  General,  "if  the  Lord  shall  once  more 
give  us  sunshine,  and  I  do  not  give  you  fighting  enough,  I'll  never  ask  you  to 
come  out  again  !"  This  satisfied  the  preacher,  and  he  went  out  to  cheer  up  his 
flock  with  the  good  news. 

Day  dawned,  bright  and  warm,  on  the  16th.  All  nature,  invigorated  by  the 
mild  August  rain,  glared  with  beauty  and  freshness.  Before  sunrise,  the  Ameri- 
cans were  in  motion,  while  from  the  British  intrenchments,  the  sound  of  bugles 
and  the  roll  of  drums,  told  that  Baume's  forces  were  ready  for  action.  Stark 
early  arranged  his  plan  of  attack.  Colonel  Nichols,  with  300  men,  was  sent  out 
to  attack  the  British  rear ;  Colonel  Herrick,  with  300  men,  marched  against  the 
right  flank,  but  was  ordered  to  join  Nichols  before  making  his  assault  general. 
With  about  300  men,  Colonels  Hubbard  and  Stickney  were  sent  against  the 
entrenched  front,  while  Stark,  with  a  small  reserve,  waited  to  operate  whenever 
occasion  offered.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the  American  forces  were  militia, 
while  Baume's  army  was  made  up  of  well-disciplined,  well-armed,  and  experi- 
enced soldiers.  Many  of  the  patriots  were  armed  with  fowling-pieces,  and  there 
were  whole  companies  without  a  bayonet.  They  had  no  artillery. 

General  Stark  waited  impatiently  until  the  roar  of  musketry  proclaimed  that  the 
different  detachments  had  commenced  their  attack,  and  then  forming  his  small 
battalion,  he  made  his  memorable  speech:  '•'•Boys!  there's  the  enemy,  and  we 
must  beat  them,  or  Molly  Stark  sleeps  a  widow  to-night — Forward!"  His  sol- 
diers, with  enthusiastic  shouts,  rushed  forward  upon  the  Hessian  defences,  and 
the  battle  became  general.  The  Hessian  dragoons,  dismounted,  met  the  Ameri- 
cans with  stern  bravery.  The  two  cannons,  loaded  with  grape  and  canister, 
swept  the  hill-side  with  dreadful  effect. 

Stark' s  white  horse  fell  in  less  than  ten  minutes  after  his  gallant  rider  came 
under  fire,  but  on  foot,  with  his  hat  in  one  hand,  and  his  sabre  in  the  other,  he 
kept  at  the  head  of  his  men,  who,  without  flinching  a  single  foot,  urged  their  way 
up  the  little  hill.  Brave  Parson  Allen,  with  a  clubbed  musket,  was  seen  amid  the 
smoke,  fighting  in  the  front  platoon  of  his  company.  The  whole  field  was  a  vol- 
cano of  fire.  Stark,  in  his  official  report,  says  that  the  two  forces  were  within  a 
few  yards  of  each  other,  and  "the  roaring  of  their  guns  was  like  a  continuous 
clap  of  thunder  !  "  The  Hessian  and  British  regulars,  accustomed  to  hard-fought 
fields,  held  their  ground  stubbornly  and  bravely.  For  more  than  two  hours  the 
battle  hung  in  even  scale.  At  length,  Baume  ordered  a  charge  ;  at  that  instant 
lie  fell,  mortally  wounded,  and  his  men  charging  forward,  broke  their  ranks  in 


YERMONT.  219 

such  a  manner,  that  the  Americans  succeeded,  after  a  fierce  hand  to  hand  fight, 
in  entering  the  intrenchments. 

Stark  shouted  to  his  men,  "Forward,  boys,  charge  them  home!"  and  his 
troops,  maddened  by  the  conflict,  swept  the  hill  with  irresistible  valor.  They 
pushed  forward  without  discipline  or  order,  seized  the  artillery,  and  gave  chase 
to  the  flying  enemy.  The  field  being  won,  plunder  became  the  object  of  the 
militia. 

The  guns,  sabres,  stores  and  equipments  of  the  defeated  foe  were  being  gath- 
ered up,  when  Colonel  Breyman,  with  500  men,  suddenly  appeared  upon  the 
field.  He  had  been  sent  by  Burgoyne  to  reinforce  Baume,  but  the  heavy  rain 
had  prevented  his  men  from  marching  at  a  rapid  rate.  The  flying  troops  instantly 
rallied  and  joined  the  new  array,  which  speedily  assumed  an  order  of  battle,  and 
began  to  press  the  scattered  forces  of  the  patriots.  This  was  a  critical  period. 
Stark  put  forth  every  effort  to  rally  his  men,  but  they  were  exhausted,  scattered, 
and  nearly  out  of  ammunition.  It  seemed  as  if  the  fortune  of  the  day  was  in  the 
royal  hands,  when  from  the  edge  o"f  a  strip  of  forest,  half  a  mile  off,  came  a  loud 
and  genuine  American  cheer.  Stark  turned,  and  beheld  emerging  from  the  wood, 
the  Berkshire  regiment,  under  Colonel  Warner.  This  body  of  men,  also  delayed 
by  the  rain,  after  a  forced  march,  had  just  reached  the  battle  field,  panting  for  a 
share  in  the  affray.  General  Stark  hastened  to  the  captain  of  the  foremost  com- 
pany, and  ordered  him  to  lead  his  men  to  the  charge  at  once.  But  the  captain 
coolly  asked,  "Where's  the  colonel?  I  want  to  see  Colonel  Warner  before  I 
move."  The  colonel  was  sent  for,  and  the  redoubtable  captain,  drawing  himself 
up,  said,  with  a  nasal  twang  peculiar  to  the  puritans  of  old,  "Naow,  Kernal, 
what  d'ye  want  me  tu  dew  ?  "  "  Drive  those  red-coats  from  the  hill  yonder," 
was  the  answer.  "  Wall,  it  shall  be  done,"  said  the  captain,  and  issuing  the 
necessary  orders,  he  led  his  men  to  the  charge  without  a  moment's  hesitation. 

Said  an  eye-witness,  afterwards,  "  The  last  we  saw  of  Warner's  regiment  for 
half  an  hour,  was  when  they  entered  the  smoke  and  fire  about  halfway  up  the 
hill."  Stark  with  a  portion  of  his  rallied  troops  supported  the  Berkshire  men, 
and  the  royal  forces  were  defeated  after  a  close  contest.  A  portion  of  them 
escaped,  but  700  men  and  officers  were  taken  prisoners,  among  the  latter  Colonel 
Baume,  who  soon  died  of  his  wound. 

The  British  lost  207  men  killed,  and  a  large  number  wounded.  Of  the  Ameri- 
cans, about  100  were  killed  and  the  same  number  wounded.  The  spoils  consisted 
of  four  pieces  of  cannon,  several  hundred  stand  of  excellent  muskets,  250  dragoon 
swords,  8  brass  drums,  and  4  wagons  laden  with  stores,  clothing  and  ammunition. 

This  victory  severely  crippled  Burgoyne,  and  discouraged  his  army,  while  it 
enlivened  the  Americans  from  one  extent  of  the  country  to  the  other.  It  taught 
the  British  troops  to  respect  the  American  militia,  and  it  was  a  brilliant  precursor 
to  the  victories  of  Saratoga  and  Bemis'  Heights. 

Congress  voted  thanks  to  General  Stark  and  his  brave  troops  for  their  great 
victory,  and  took  measures  to  push  on  the  war  with  renewed  energy  and  hope. 

MISCELLANY. 

THE    TAKING    OF    TICONDEROGA. 

Inasmuch  as  the  capture  of  the  fortress  of  Ticonderoga  was  the 
work  of  the  "  Green  Mountain  Boys,"  it  seems  but  just  to  append  the 


220  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

account  of  their  exploits  to  the  description  we  have  given  of  their 
State.  The  following  narrative  is  taken  from  "  Williams'  History 
of  Vermont:" 

The  first  steps  for  this  object  seem  to  have  been  taken  by  some  gentlemen  in 
Connecticut ;  and  Messrs.  Deane,  Wooster,  Parsons,  and  others  engaged  in  the 
affair.  The  success  depended  on  the  secrecy  with  which  the  affair  could  be  man- 
aged. Their  first  object  was  to  obtain  a  sum  of  money  to  bear  the  necessary  ex- 
penses. They  procured  this  to  the  amount  of  about  $1800,  from  the  general 
assembly  of  Connecticut,  by  way  of  loan.  Several  of  the  militia  captains  pushed 
forward  to  Salisbury,  the  northwestern  town  in  that  colony ;  and  after  a  little 
consultation  concluded  not  to  spend  any  time  in  raising  men,  but  to  procure  a 
quantity  of  powder  and  ball,  and  set  off  immediately  for  Bennington,  and  engage 
Ethan  Allen  in  the  business.  With  his  usual  spirit  of  activity  and  enterprise, 
Allen  undertook  the  management  of  the  scheme ;  and  set  off  to  the  northward,  to 
raise  and  collect  all  the  men  that  he  could  find.  The  Connecticut  gentlemen  hav- 
ing procured  a  small  quantity  of  provisions,  went  on  to  Castleton  ;  and  were  there 
joined  by  Allen,  with  the  men  that  he  had  raised  from  the  new  settlements.  The 
whole  number  that  were  assembled  amounted  to  270,  of  which  230  were  raised 
on  the  New  Hampshire  grants,  distinguished  at  that  time  by  the  name  of  Green 
Mountain  Boys  ;  so  called  from  the  Green  Mountains,  among  which  they  resided. 
Sentries  were  immediately  placed  on  all  the  roads,  and  the  necessary  measures 
taken  to  procure  intelligence  of  the  state  of  the  works  and  garrison  at  Ticon- 
deroga. 

While  Allen  and  his  associates  were  collecting  at  Castleton,  ttolonel  Arnold 
arrived,  attended  only  by  a  servant.  This  officer  belonged  to  New  Haven,  in 
Connecticut.  As  soon  as  the  news  arrived  at  that  place  that  hostilities  had  com- 
menced at  Lexington,  Arnold,  then  a  captain,  set  out  at  the  head  of  a  volunteer 
company,  and  marched  with  the  greatest  expedition  to  Cambridge.  The  day 
after  his  arrival,  he  attended  the  Massachusetts  committee  of  safety,  and  reported 
to  them  that  the  fort  at  Ticonderoga  was  in  a  ruinous  condition  ;  that  it  was  gar- 
risoned by  about  40  men,  and  contained  a  large  quantity  of  artillery  and  military 
stores  ;  and  might  easily  be  captured.  The  committee  wished  to  avail  themselves 
of  his  information  and  activity  ;  and  on  the  3d  of  May  appointed  him  a  colonel, 
and  gave  him  directions  to  enlist  400  men,  and  march  for  the  reduction  of  Ticon- 
deroga. Under  these  orders,  and  with  this  design,  he  joined  the  men  that  were 
assembling  at  Castleton  ;  but  was  unknown  to  any  of  them  but  a  Mr.  Blagden, 
one  of  the  Connecticut  officers.  His  commission  being  examined,  it  was  agreed 
in  a  council  that  he  should  be  admitted  to  join  and  act  with  them ;  but  that  Allen 
should  also  have  the  commission  of  a  colonel,  and  have  the  command  ;  and  that 
Arnold  should  be  considered  as  his  assistant. 

To  procure  intelligence,  Captain  Noah  Phelps,  one  of  the  gentlemen  from  Con- 
necticut, disguised  himself  in  the  habit  of  one  of  the  poor  settlers,  and  went  into 
the  fort,  pretending  he  wanted  to  be  shaved,  and  inquired  for  a  barber.  Affect- 
ing an  awkward  appearance,  and  asking  many  simple  questions,  he  passed  un- 
suspected, and  had  an  opportunity  to  observe  the  state  of  everything  within  the 
walls.  Returning  to  his  party,  he  gave  them  the  necessary  information,  and  the 
same  night  they  began  their  march  to  the  fort. 

With  so  much  expedition  and  secrecy  had  the  enterprise  been  conducted,  that 
Colonel  Allen  arrived  at  Orwell,  opposite  to  Ticonderoga,  on  the  9th  of  May,  at 


VERMONT.  221 

night,  with  his  230  Green  Mountain  Boys,  without  any  intelligence  or  apprehen- 
sion on  the  part  of  the  garrison.  It  was  with  difficulty  that  boats  could  be  pro- 
cured to  pass  the  lake  ;  a  few,  however,  being  collected,  Allen  and  Arnold  passed 
over,  with  83  men,  and  landed  near  the  works.  Arnold  now  wished  to  assume 
the  command,  to  lead  on  the  men,  and  swore  that  he  would  go  in  himself  the 
first.  Allen  swore  that  he  should  not,  but  that  he  himself  would  be  the  first  man 
that  should  enter.  The  dispute  beginning  to  run  high,  some  of  the  gentlemen 
that  were  present  interposed,  and  it  was  agreed  that  both  should  go  in  together, 
Allen  on  the  right  hand  and  Arnold  on  the  left.  On  the  10th  of  May,  in  the  gray 
of  the  morning,  they  both  entered  the  port  leading  to  the  fort,  followed  by  their 
men.  The  sentry  snapped  his  fusee  at  Allen,  and  retreated  through  the  covered 
way.  The  Americans  followed  the  sentry,  and  immediately  drew  up  on  the 
parade.  Captain  De  la  Place  commanded,  but  he  was  so  little  apprehensive  of 
any  danger  or  hostility,  that  he  was  surprised  in  his  bed.  As  soon  as  he  ap- 
peared, he  was  ordered  to  surrender  the  fort.  "Upon  what  authority  do  you 
require  it?"  said  De  la  Place.  "I  demand  it,"  said  Allen,  "in  the  name  of  the 
great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress."  Surrounded  by  the  Americans, 
who  were  already  in  possession  of  the  works,  it  was  not  in  the  power  of  the 
British  captain  to  make  any  opposition,  and  he  surrendered  his  garrison  prison- 
ers of  war,  without  knowing  by  what  authority  Allen  was  acting,  or  that  hostili- 
ties had  commenced  between  Britain  and  the  Colonies.  After  Allen  had  landed 
with  his  party,  the  boats  were  sent  back  for  Colonel  Seth  Warner  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  men,  who  had  been  left  under  his  command.  Warner  did  not 
arrive  till  after  the  place  had  surrendered,  but  he  took  the  command  of  a  party 
who  set  off  for  Crown  Point.  At  that  place  there  were  only  a  sergeant  and  12 
men  to  perform  garrison  duty.  They  surrendered  upon  the  first  summons,  and 
Warner  took  possession  of  Crown  Point  on  the  same  day  that  Ticonderoga  was 
given  up.  Another  party  surprised  Skeensborough,  made  a  prisoner  of  Major 
Skeen,  the  son,  took  possession  of  a  strong  stone  house  which  he  had  built,  se- 
cured his  dependents  and  domestics,  and  made  themselves  masters  of  that  im- 
portant harbor. 

By  these  enterprises  the  Americans  had  captured  a  British  captain,  lieutenant, 
and  44  privates.  In  the  forts  they  found  above  200  pieces  of  cannon,  some  mor- 
tars, howitzers,  and  large  quantities  of  ammunition  and  military  stores  ;  and  a 
warehouse  full  of  materials  for  carrying  on  the  business  of  building  boats.  Hav- 
ing succeeded  in  their  attempts  against  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  it  was 
still  necessary,  in  order  to  secure  the  command  of  Lake  Champlain,  to  get  pos- 
session of  an  armed  sloop  which  lay  at  St.  John's,  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake. 
To  effect  this  purpose,  it  was  determined  to  man  and  arm  a  schooner,  which  lay 
at  South  Bay.  Arnold  had  the  command  of  the  schooner,  and  Allen  took  the 
command  of  a  number  of  batteaux,  and  both  sailed  for  St.  John's.  The  wind 
being  fresh  at  the  south,  Arnold  soon  passed  the  lake,  surprised  and  captured  the 
armed  sloop  in  the  harbor  of  St.  John's  :  in  about  an  hour  after  he  had  taken  her, 
the  wind  suddenly  shifted  to  the  north,  and  Arnold  made  sail  with  his  prize,  and 
met  Allen  with  his  batteaux  at  some  distance  from  St.  John's. 


MASSACHUSETTS. 

Area, 7800  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 1,231,060 

Population  in  1870, 1,457,351 

THE  State  of  Massachusetts  is  situated  (including  its  islands)  be- 
tween 41°  10'  and  42°  53'  N.  latitude,  and  between  69°  50'  and  73° 
30'  \V.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  Hampshire 
and  Vermont,  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  south  by  the 
Atlantic,  and  the  States  of  Rhode  Island  and  Connecticut,  and  on  the 
west  by  New  York.  It  is  very  irregular  in  shape,  its  southeastern 
extremity  extending  far  out  into  the  ocean,  and  curving  so  as  to  almost 
enclose  Cape  Cod  Bay.  Its  greatest  length  from  east  to  west  is  about 
145  miles.  The  eastern  side  is  about  90  miles  wide  from  north  to 
vouth,  and  its  western  end  about  48  miles  broad. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  State  has  a  considerable  extent  of  sea  coast,  and  possesses  a 
number  of  excellent  harbors. 

Massachusetts  Bay  and  Cape  Cod  Bay  are  really  one  and  the  same 
sheet  of  water,  and  comprise  a  large  gulf,  which  indents  the  eastern 
coast  of  the  State  for  about  25  miles  in  a  southwest  and  65  miles  in 
a  southeast  direction.  The  upper,  or  northern  part  of  this  gulf  is 
called  Massachusetts  Bay,  and  the  lower  part  Cape  Cod  Bay.  The 
latter  is  famous  as  having  been  the  harbor  in  which  the  Mayflower 
cast  anchor  after  her  long  and  weary  voyage  from  England,  in  1620. 
The  extreme  eastern  part  of  the  State  extends  around  Cape  Cod  Bay, 
enclosing  it  in  a  kind  of  semicircle.  Plymouth  is  situated  on  the 
northwest  side  of  this  bay.  Boston  lies  on  the  west  side  of  Massa- 
chusetts Bay. 
222  * 


MASSACHUSETTS.  223 

Buzzard's  Say,  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the  State,  extends  inland 
in  a  northward  direction  for  about  30  miles,  and  is  about  7  miles 
wide.  The  harbors  of  New  Bedford,  Fair  Haven,  and  Rochester  lie 
along  this  bay,  which  is  separated  from  Vineyard  Sound  by  the 
Elizabeth  Islands. 

Martha's  Vineyard  and  the  Elizabeth  Islands  lie  in  the  Atlantic  to 
the  south  of  Barnstable  county,  and  together  form  Duke's  county. 
Martha's  Vineyard  is  separated  from  Barnstable  county,  on  the  main- 
land, by  Vineyard  Sound,  a  sheet  of  water  from  3  to  7  miles  wide. 
The  island  is  21  miles  long,  and  from  3  to  9  miles  wide.  Edgarton 
is  the  chief  town.  The  Elizabeth  Islands,  16  in  number,. lie  between 
Buzzard's  Bay  and  Vineyard  Sound.  Only  2  or  3  are  inhabited. 
The  people  of  Duke's  county  are  engaged  principally  in  fishing  and 
navigation. 

Nantuclcet  is  the  name  given  to  a  large  island  in  the  Atlantic,  about 
30  miles  south  of  Barnstable  county.  It  is  about  15  miles  long,  and 
from  3  to  4  miles  wide.  Several  small  islands  lie  immediately  on  its 
northern  coast,  and  with  it  form  the  county  of  Nantucket.  The  chief 
town  is  Nantucket,  on  the  northern  part  of  the  main  island.  This  town 
was  founded  in  1659,  and  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  in  the  State. 
It  is  compactly  and  neatly  built,  has  a  library  of  several  thousand 
volumes,  8  or  9  churches,  a  bank  with  a  capital  of  $200,000,  and 
several  handsome  buildings.  The  inhabitants  are  actively  engaged 
in  the  fisheries,  and,  until  the  discovery  of  petroleum  rendered  this 
traffic  of  comparatively  little  importance,  Nantucket  was  one  of  the 
principal  depots  of  the  whale  trade.  In  1863,  4407  tons  of  shipping 
were  owned  on  the  island.  Steam  communication  is  maintained  with 
the  mainland.  In  1860,  the  population  of  the  town  was  5000,  of  the 
county  6064.  In  1870,  it  was  4134.  During  the  Revolution  and 
the  war  of  1812—15,  Nan  tucket  sent  out  numerous  privateers  against 
the  British  commerce,  and  a  Nan  tucket  ship  was  the  first  to  show  the 
"  Stars  and  Stripes  "  in  the  river  Thames,  after  the  recognition  of  our 
independence  by  Great  Britain. 

The  surface  of  Massachusetts  is  generally  uneven,  and  in  the  west- 
ern part  is  broken  into  mountain  ranges  of  a  moderate  elevation. 
The  southeastern  part  is  level  and  sandy,  and  the  eastern  and  middle 
parts  are  broken  and  rugged.  The  Green  Mountains  pass  across  the 
western  part  of  the  State,  from  Vermont,  and  extend  into  Connecticut. 
They  are  about  20  or  30  miles  west  of  the  Connecticut  River,  and 
pursue  a  course  parallel  with  it.  Besides  this  range,  there  are  several 


224  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

isolated  peaks  in  the  State,  the  principal  of  which  are  Wachusetts 
Mountain,  2018  feet;  in  the  north-central  part  of  the  State,  Mount 
Tom,  1200  feet;  and  Mount  Holyoke,  910  feet,  near  Northampton. 
These  are  considered  outliers  of  the  White  Mountain  range,  of  New 
Hampshire.  The  Green  Mountains  are  divided  into  two  ridges  in 
Massachusetts.  The  eastern  is  the  lowest,  and  is  called  the  Hoosic 
Ridge ;  and  the  western  is  the  most  elevated,  and  is  called  the  Tang- 
kannic  Range.  Its  highest  peak  is  Mount  Washington,  2264  feet,  in 
the  southwest  corner  of  the  State. 

The  Connecticut  is  the  principal  river  of  the  State,  flowing  across  it 
from  north  to  south,  and  into  the  State  of  Connecticut.  It  is  rendered 
navigable  by  means  of  canals,  and  furnishes  excellent  water-power. 
The  MerrimaCj  which  has  already  been  described  in  the  chapter  on 
New  Hampshire,  turns  the  mills  of  Lowell  and  Lawrence.  The  tribu- 
taries of  the  former  stream  in  this  State  are  Miller's,  the  Chicoopee, 
Deerfield,  and  Westfield  rivers ;  those  of  the  latter,  the  Nashua  and 
Concord.  Taunton  River  furnishes  excellent  water-power,  and  sup- 
plies the  factories  of  the  cities  of  Taunton  and  Fall  River.  Charles 
River  rises  in  the  interior,  and  flows  into  Massachusetts  Bay. 

"Massachusetts  abounds  in  picturesque  scenery.  This  observation 
is  especially  true  of  the  western  part  of  the  State,  and  the  view  of  the 
Connecticut  River  and  Valley  from  Mount  Holyoke  has  long  been 
celebrated.  Though  rather  less  than  1000  feet  in  height,  the  views 
it  commands,  and  its  easy  ascent,  being  traversed  to  its  summit  by  a 
good  carriage  road,  have  invited  hither  many  tourists  in  the  season 
for  travelling.  The  spectator  has  below  him  the  beautiful  meander- 
ing Connecticut  wending  its  way  through  the  meadows  and  among  the 
villages,  while  to  the  southwest,  and  at  no  great  distance,  is  Mount 
Tom  ;  and  still  farther  in  the  same  direction,  Bald  or  Washington 
Mount,  and  in  the  northwest  Saddle  Mountain,  the  highest  ground  in 
the  State;  and  turning  to  the  east  and  northeast  he  has  the  peaks  of 
Wachusetts  in  Massachusetts,  and  Monad  nock  in  New  Hampshire ; 
the  intermediate  parts  of  the  scene  being  filled  up  with  a  great  variety 
of  landscape,  villages,  hills,  rivulets,  and  low  mountains.  There  is  a 
good  hotel  on  the  top  of  Mount  Holyoke,  and  in  the  vicinity  the 
beautiful  village  of  Northampton,  at  which  the  tourist  may  take  up 
his  quarters  and  make  his  excursion  from  thence  over  the  mountain. 
A  yet  more  extensive  view  is  obtained  from  Saddle  Mountain,  but  it  has 
hitherto  lain  more  out  of  the  line  of  travel,  and  been  less  visited,  though 
of  thrice  the  elevation  of  Mount  Tom.  It  commands  a  view  of  the 


MASSACHUSETTS.  225 

surrounding  country  for  40  or  50  miles,  extending  to  the  Catskills  on 
the  west,  overlooking  the  Green  Mountains  on  the  north,  south,  and 
east,  and  on  the  northeast  reaching  to  Monadnock  Mountain,  in  1SW 
Hampshire.  This  mountain  is  fertile  to  the  summit,  near  which  is  a 
small  lake  or  pond.  Goodrich  describes  a  phenomenon  as  having  oc- 
curred here  in  1784,  called  by  the  inhabitants  the  bursting  of  a  cloud. 
About  dawn  of  a  certain  morning,  the  tenants  of  a  house  on  the  banks 
of  the  Hoosic,  on  the  western  slope,  were  aroused  by  the  roaring  of 
the  torrent,  and  had  barely  time  to  escape  before  their  dwelling  was 
swept  away  by  the  flood.  The  torrent  wore  a  gully  in  the  mountain 
20  feet  deep,  and  swept  away  the  timber  entirely  from  about  10  acres 
of  land.  Berkshire  county  abounds  in  sublime  and  picturesque 
scenery,  and  has  become  a  favorite  resort  not  only  for  tourists,  but  for 
citizens  seeking  pleasant  summer  residences.  Hawthorne,  Miss  Sedg- 
wick,  Fanny  Kcmble,  James,  and  others,  have  rendered  their  tribute 
to  the  charms  of  Berkshire  scenery,  by  taking  up  their  abode  there 
for  considerable  periods.  The  Ice  Hole,  a  narrow  and  deep  ravine 
of  great  wild  ness,  in  Stockbridge,  where  the  ice  remains  the  year 
round ;  a  fall  of  about  70  feet  descent,  amid  wild  scenery,  in  the 
Housatonic,  in  Dalton ;  the  Natural  Bridge,  on  Hudson's  Brook,  in 
Adams,  where  a  fissure  of  from  30  to  60  feet  deep,  and  about  500 
feet  long,  has  been  worn  through  the  limestone  rock,  forming  a  bridge 
50  feet  above  the  water;  a  rock  of  30  or  40  tons,  in  New  Marlboro', 
so  nicely  balanced  that  a  finger  can  move  it;  and  Hanging  Mountain, 
on  the  Farmington  Hiver,  in  Sandisfield,  rising  in  a  perpendicular 
wall  above  the  river  to  the  height  of  more  than  300  feet;  are,  after 
the  mountains  already  named,  the  most  remarkable  natural  objects  in 
Berkshire.  Blue  Hill,  11  miles  southwest  of  Boston,  which  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  Boston  Harbor  and  the  ocean,  is  635  feet  high, 
being  the  most  elevated  land  in  Eastern  Massachusetts.  On  the  side 
of  Mount  Toby,  a  hill  of  sandstone,  elevated  about  1000  feet  above 
the  Connecticut,  is  a  cavern  about  150  feet  in  length  and  60  in  depth. 
Nahant,  a  rocky  promontory  on  the  north  shore  of  Boston  Bay,  ex- 
tending 4  miles  into  the  sea,  is  the  most  noted  watering-place  in  Mas- 
sachusetts. It  is  about  9  miles  northeast  of  Boston,  and  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  ocean,  and  of  the  shipping  entering  and  departing 
from  the  harbor.  In  addition  to  its  good  beach,  Nahant  has  the 
charm  of  wildness  given  to  it  by  the  rugged  rocks  which  form  the 
promontory,  and  into  the  caves  and  recesses  of  which  the  sea  surges 
at  times  with  great  violence.  The  mineral  springs  of  this  State  have 
15 


226  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

not  acquired  any  great  celebrity  beyond  her  own  limits;  the  principal 
are,  one  in  the  town  of  Hopkinton,  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid, 
and  carbonates  of  lime  and  iron ;  one  in  Shutesbury,  containing  mu- 
riate of  lime;  and  a  chalybeate  sulphur  spring  in  Winchenden.  The 
Quincy  granite  quarries,  6  or  8  miles  south  of  Boston,  in  a  range  of 
hills  200  feet  high,  are  worthy  of  a  visit."  * 

MINERALS. 

Granite  abounds,  and  is  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  Union  for  build- 
ing purposes.  The  gray  granite  of  the  Quincy  Hills  is  famous.  Mar- 
ble is  found  in  Berkshire  county.  The  new  wings  of  the  Capitol  at 
Washington,  and  Girard  College  at  Philadelphia  are  constructed  of 
marble  from  this  county.  Small  deposits  of  anthracite  coal  are  found 
in  Hampshire  county.  Iron  is  found  in  great  abundance  west  of  the 
Connecticut  River,  and  in  limited  quantities  in  Plymouth  and  Bristol 
counties,  while  lead  mines  have  been  worked  in  Hampshire  county 
(at  Northampton),  since  1765.  The  other  minerals  are  gneiss,  quartz," 
mica,  limestone,  hornblende,  serpentine,  asbestus,  and  slate. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  Massachusetts  is  very  severe  in  the  winter.  The 
writer  has  seen  the  thermometer  indicate  28°  below  zero  at  8  o'clock 
A.  M.  in  Boston.  The  summers  are  short,  and  would  be  pleasant  on 
the  coast  were  it  not  for  the  sudden  changes  from  extreme  heat  to 
cold  by  which  they  are  marked.  The  spring  is  rendered  disagreeable 
by  severe  northeast  winds,  which  are  a  fruitful  source  of  pulmonary 
complaints.  In  the  western  part  of  the  State,  the  climate  is  steadier. 
The  winter  sets  in  early  in  all  sections,  and  lasts  long,  but  the  spring, 
though  late,  is  rapid.  The  early  fruit  trees  are  in  full  bloom  by  the 
middle  of  April. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  of  Massachusetts  is  not  naturally  fertile,  but  has  been  ren- 
dered productive  by  the  industry  of  its  people.  The  best  lands  are 
in  the  central  and  western  counties,  especially  in  the  valleys  of  the 
Connecticut,  Housatonic,  and  other  streams.  The  farmers  of  Massa- 
chusetts compare  favorably  with  those  of  any  other  part  of  the  Union 


Lippineott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1156. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  227 

in  intelligence,  and  there  is  perhaps  no  State  which  devotes  more  sci- 
entific skill  to  the  production  of  its  crops.  The  population  is  the 
densest  in  the  Union,  and  the  amount  of  grain  produced  is  not  ade- 
quate to  the  demands  of  the  community. 

In  1869  there  were  2,155,512  acres  of  improved  land  in  Massa- 
chusetts, and  1,183,212  acres  of  unimproved  land.  The  following 
statement  shows  the  remainder  of  the  agricultural  wealth  of  the  State 
qt  the  present  time  : 

Cash  value  of  farms, -    ...  $123,255,948 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery,  $-3,894,998 

X umber  of  horses,       49,450 

asses  and  mules, 189 

milch  cows, 160,220 

u            other  cattle, 140,340 

44            sheep, • 119,560 

"            swine, 93,540 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $9,737,744 

Bushels  of  wheat, 167,000 

rye, 462,000 

Indian  corn, 1,950,000 

44             oats, 1,525,000 

44             Irish  potatoes, 4,300,000 

44             barley. 144,000 

buckwheat, 85,000 

Pounds  of  wool, 377,267 

butter, 8,297,936 

44            cheese, 5,294,090 

hops,       . 111,301 

44            maple  sugar, 1,006,078 

44            beeswax  and  honey, 62,414 

Tons  of  hay, 850,000 

Value  of  orchard  products, $925,519 

44          market  garden  products, $1,397,623 

44          home-made  manufactures,     ....  $245,886 

44          slaughtered  animals, $2,915,045 

COMMERCE. 

In  the  extent  and  value  of  her  commerce,  Massachusetts  stands 
next  to  New  York.  The  total  tonnage  of  the  State  in  1859  was 
829,034,  of  which  154,048  were  engaged  in  the  whale  fisheries.  In 
1855,  the  total  value  of  the  product  of  the  whale  fisheries  was 
$6,766,996.  In  the  same  year  the  product  of  the  cod  and  mackerel 
fisheries  was  $2,902,796.  In  1861,  the  total  exports  of  Massachusetts 
were  $16,532,736,  and  the  total  imports,  $45,399,844. 


228  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

MANUFACTURES. 

Massachusetts  is  the  third  State  in  the  Union  in  manufactures,  and 
the  first  as  regards  her  cotton  and  woollen  manufactures.  By  the 
census  of  1860,  there  were  8176  establishments  in  the  State,  devoted 
to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  a  capital 
of  §133,000,000,  and  216,300  hands,  and  yielding  an  annual  product 
of  $266,000,000.  There  were  200  cotton  mills,  employing  12,635 
male,  and  22,353  female  hands,  and  a  capital  of  $33,300,000.  They 
consumed  raw  material  worth  $14,778,334;  paid  $7,221,156  for  la- 
bor ;  and  yielded  an  annual  product  of  $36,745,864.  There  were  131 
woollen  mills,  employing  6645  male,  and  4608  female  hands,  and  a 
capital  of  $10,179,500.  They  consumed  raw  material  worth  $11,- 
613,174,  paid  $2,645,868  for  labor,  and  returned  an  annual  product 
of  $18,930,000.  The  value  of  leather  produced  was  $10,354,056  Vof 
boots  and  shoes,  $46,440,209  ;  of  pig  iron,  $403,000;  of  rolled  iron, 
$1,291,200;  of  steam  engines  and  machinery,  $5,131,238;  of  agricul- 
tural implements,  $1,740,943;  of  sawed  and  planed  lumber,  $4,200,- 
000;  of  malt  liquors,  $659,000;  of  spirituous  liquors,  $1,266,000; 
of  furniture,  $3,665,415.  In  1865,  the  value  of  paper  manufactured 
was  $9,008,521. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  proportion  to  its  size  and  population,  Massachusetts  is  the  most 
important  State  in  the  Union  as  regards  its  railroads.  In  1871,  there 
were  1975  miles  of  single  track  in  the  State.  These  were  constructed 
and  equipped  at  a  cost  of  $72,175,091,  and  during  the  year  1865, 
their  net  earnings  amounted  to  $6,173,157.  Boston  is  the  great  rail- 
road centre.  Three  continuous  lines  extend  from  that  city  into  New 
York,  two  of  them  passing  through  the  principal  towns  of  Rhode 
Island  and  Connecticut.  Two  lines  extend  from  Boston  to  Portland, 
passing  through  the  intervening  towns.  Lines  extend  from  the  former 
city  to  all  parts  of  the  State,  into  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  and 
Canada,  and  by  means  of  the  Boston  and  Troy  (N.  Y.)  Railroad, 
there  is  now  unbroken  railroad  communication  between  Boston  and 
all  parts  of  the  west  and  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

EDUCATION. 

The  State  provides  liberally  for  the  cause  of  education.  "The 
Board  of  Education,  which  consists  of  the  Governor,  Lieutenant- 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


2'29 


HARVARD    UNIVERSITY,    CAMBRIDGE,    MASSACHUSETTS. 

Governor,  and  eight  members  appointed  by  the  Governor  and  Coun- 
cil, has  the  general  oversight  of  the  Normal  Schools,  Public  Schools, 
and  of  Educational  Statistics.  The  officers,  trustees,  or  persons  in 
charge  of  every  institution  of  learning,  whether  literary,  scientific,  or 
professional,  public  or  private,  and  of  all  reform  schools  or  alms- 
houses,  are  required  by  law  to  report  to  the  Board  on  or  before  the 
1st  day  of  June  in  each  year,  giving  such  statistics  as  the  Board  shall 
prescribe.  The  Board  appoints  a  Secretary,  who  is  its  chief  executive 
officer,  and  who  gives  his  whole  time  to  the  supervision  and  improve- 
ment of  common  schools..  Each  town  elects  a  School  Committee  of 
three  persons,  or  a  number  which  is  a  multiple  of  three,  who  examine 
teachers,  visit  schools,  and  have  a  general  oversight  of  the  schools  of 
the  town.  In  the  cities  and  some  of  the  larger  towns,  the  School 
Committee  appoints  a  superintendent,  who  has  the  immediate  charge 
of  the  schools.  The  number  of  school  districts  is  annually  diminish- 
ing, there  being  323  less  in  1867  than  in  1866,  and  672  less  than  in 
1861.  Where  the  districts  are  abolished,  the  schools  are  managed 
entirely  by  the  towns.  Each  town  having  500  or  more  families  is  by 
law  required  to  maintain  a  public  high  school. 


230  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"  Provision  for  the  special  education  of  teachers  is  made  in  four 
State  Normal  Schools,  two  of  which  are  for  both  sexes,  and  two  for 
female  teachers  only.  A  Girls'  High  and  Normal  School,  and  an  ef- 
ficient Training  School,  are  also  maintained  by  the  city  of  Boston,  for 
preparing  teachers  for  primary  schools.  Teachers7  Institutes  are  held 
annually  under  the  direction  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Board  of  Edu- 
cation." 

The  public  schools  are  supported  by  direct  taxes.  In  1870,  the 
amount  expended  for  these  schools,  exclusive  of  the  cost  of  erecting 
and  repairing  buildings,  was  $3,125,053.  In  1870  there  were  in  the 
State  5100  public  schools,  presided  over  by  8977  teachers.  The 
attendance  was  as  follows:  242,155  pupils;  121,572  being  males,  and 
120,573  females. 

Harvard  University,  at  Cambridge,  is  the  oldest  college  in  the 
Union,  and  ranks  among  the  first  in  standing  and  usefulness.  Besides 
the  regular  collegiate  course,  it  has  schools  of  divinity,  medicine,  law, 
science,  and  philosophy.  Its  museum  of  Scientific- Zoology  is  the  best 
in  the  country.  Its  faculty  has  included  some  of  the  most  eminent 
men  of  the  land,  and  many  of  our  greatest  statesmen,  jurists,  and  men 
of  science  are  numbered  amongst  its  alumni.  Williams  College,  at 
Williamstown,  Amherst,  at  Amherst,  Holy  Cross,  at  Worcester,  and 
Tufts,  at  Medford,  are  the  other  colleges  of  the  State.  All  are  well 
attended,  and  are  prosperous. 

In  1871,  there  were  55  incorporated  academies,  with  an  average 
attendance  of  3696  pupils;  and  553  private  schools  of  all  grades,  the 
estimated  average  attendance  of  which  was  14,417. 

In  1870,  there  were  in  the  State  3169  libraries,  containing 
3,017,813  volumes.  Of  these,  about  1500  were  public.  In  Massa- 
chusetts, as  well  as  in  the  other  New  England  States,  there  is  a  public 
library  in  nearly  every  town. 

In  1870,  there  were  259  periodicals  published  in  the  State — 129 
political,  31  religious,  54  literary  and  miscellaneous.  Of  these,  21 
were  daily,  1  tri-weekly,  14  semi-weekly,  l';3  weekly,  48  monthly, 
6  quarterly,  and  1  annual.  Their  aggregate  annual  circulation  was 
129,691,266  copies. 

PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Prison  is  located  at  Charlestown.  It  was  founded  in 
1800.  The  commutation  system  is  in  successful  operation.  Prison- 
ers are  confined  in  separate  cells,  and  are  required  to  perform  their 


MASSACHUSETTS.  231 

work  in  silence.  On  the  30th  of  September,  1869,  there  were  593 
prisoners  confined  in  this  establishment.  The  profits  of  the  labor 
performed  by  the  convicts  amounted,  during  the  year  1868-69,  to 
$26,781  over  the  expenses  of  conducting  the  establishment. 

In  the  old  graveyard  adjoining  the  prison  is  the  monument  to  John 
Harvard,  erected  to  his  memory  in  1828,  by  the  students  of  Harvard 
University. 

There  are  in  Massachusetts  20  jails,  16  houses  of  correction,  and  1 
House  of  Industry. 

The  Board  of  State  Charities  has  charge  of  all  the  charitable  insti- 
tutions of  the  State.  These  are  the  lunatic  asylums,  the  almshouses, 
and  reform  schools. 

There  are  three  State  Lunatic  Hospitals,  located  respectively  at 
Worcester,  Taunton,  and  Northampton.  All  these  receive  State, 
town,  and  private  patients.  The  State  patients  at  the  Northampton 
Hospital  consist  of  incurables  transferred  from  the  other  institutions. 

The  State  Almshouses  are  three  in  number,  and  are  located  respec- 
tively at  Tewksbury,  Monson,  and  Bridgevvater.  The  Tewksbury 
Almshouse  is  a  receptacle  for  aged,  helpless,  harmless,  and  insane 
paupers;  that  at  Monson  is  provided  with  a  primary  school,  and  is 
devoted  to  children  old  enough  to  receive  education ;  while  the 
Bridge  water  Almshouse  is  a  place  of  confinement  for  persons  sen- 
tenced to  a  workhouse. 

There  are  three  Reform  Schools, — the  State  Industrial  School  for 
girls,  at  Lancaster,  where  a  most  excellent  influence  is  exerted  for  the 
purpose  of  reclaiming  young  girls  from  vicious  lives ;  the  State  Reform 
Scjiool  for  boys,  at  Westborough,  where  a  similar  course  of  treatment 
is  pursued  for  boys;  and  the  Massachusetts  Nautical  School,  estab- 
lished on  two  ships,  at  Boston  and  New  Bedford,  in  which  boys  of 
bad  character  are  placed  for  reformation.  In  this  school  the  boys  are 
trained  for  the  U.  S.  Navy  and  the  whaling  service. 

These  institutions  are  all  in  a  flourishing  condition. 

The  State  also  supports  wholly,  or  in  part,  the  School  for  Idiotic 
and  Feeble-Minded  Youth,  at  South  Boston ;  the  Perkins  Institution 
and  Massachusetts  Asylum  for  the  Blind ;  the  Massachusetts  General 
Hospital;  the  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary;  the  Wash ingtonian  Home; 
the  Discharged  Soldiers'  Home;  the  Temporary  Asylum  for  Dis- 
charged Female  Prisoners ;  the  Home  for  the  Friendless ;  the  New 
England  Moral  Reform  Society;  and  the  Agency  for  Discharged 
Convicts.  Pupils  are  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the  State  in  the 


232  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,"  at  Hartford,  Conn.,  and  at  the 
Clarke  Institution  for  Deaf  Mutes,  at  Northampton,  Mass. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  Massachusetts  was 
$24,488,285.  In  the  same  year  there  were  1764  churches  in  the 
State. 

FINANCES. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1870,  the  total  State  debt  was  $28,269,881. 
In  the  same  year,  the  sinking  fund  for  the  redemption  of  this  debt 
amounted  to  over  $15,000,000. 

•On  the  1st  of  October,  1868,  there  were  207  National  Banks  in  the 
State,  with  an  aggregate  paid-in  capital  of  $80,032,000. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  right  of  suffrage  in  this  State  is  denied  to  paupers  and  persons 
under  guardianship,  but  is  extended  to  each  male  adult,  able  to  read 
the  Constitution  of  the  State  in  the  English  language  and  to  write  his 
name,  who  has  been  a  resident  of  the  State  for  one  year,  and  of  his 
election  district  for  six  months. 

The  State  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  assisted  by  an  Ex- 
ecutive Council  of  8  members  (one  from  each  Council  district  of  the 
State),  a  Lieutenant-Governor,  a  Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate 
(of  40  members)  and  a  House  of  Representatives  (of  240  members), 
together  styled  "  The  General  Court  of  the  Commonwealth  of  Massa- 
chusetts," a  Secretary  of  State,  a  Treasurer,  an  Auditor,  and  an  At- 
torney General,  all  chosen  annually  by  the  people,  on  the  Tuesday 
after  the  first  Monday  in  November.  They  enter  upon  their  duties 
on  the  first  Wednesday  in  January. 

The  Judiciary  comprises  a  Supreme  Judicial  Court,  a  Superior 
Court,  a  Probate  Court  in  each  county,  and  municipal  and  police 
courts  in  the  cities  and  towns. 

The  Supreme  Judicial  Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice,  and  five 
Associate  Justices.  It  has  exclusive  cognizance  of  all  capital  crimes, 
and  "exclusive  chancery  jurisdiction  so  far  as  chancery  powers  are 
conferred  by  statute,  and  concurrent  original  jurisdiction  of  all  civil 
cases  where  the  amount  in  dispute  exceeds  $4000  in  Suffolk  county 
and  $1000  in  all  other  counties." 


MASSACHUSETTS.  233 

The  Superior  Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice,  and  nine  Associate 
Justices.  It  has  jurisdiction  in  all  criminal  case's,  except  capital  cases, 
and  in  all  civil  cases  where  the  amount  in  dispute  is  over  $20. 

The  Governor  of  the  State,  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of 
his  Council,  appoints  the  Judges  of  both  Courts,  who  hold  office  dur- 
ing good  behavior.  The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Boston. 

For  the  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  14 
counties. 

HISTORY. 

According  to  the  Icelandic  legend,  Massachusetts  was  first  discov- 
ered by  Biorn,  in  the  year  906 ;  but,  as  we  have  elsewhere  intimated, 
this  legend  is  vague  and  devoid  of  substantial  proof,  and  the  credit  of 
the  first  discovery  must  be  given  to  John  Cabot,  who  visited  the  coast 
in  1497,  under  the  orders  of  Henry  VII.  of  England,  and  five  years 
after  the  first  voyage  of  Columbus.  He  failed  to  discover  any  inhabi- 
tants/but  at  a  later  period,  his  son,  Sebastian,  while  endeavoring  to  dis- 
cover a  northwest  passage  to  China,  visited  the  waters  of  New  England, 
found  that  the  country  was  inhabited,  and  took  three  of  the  natives 
with  him  to  England.  The  Spaniards  subsequently  made  some  landings 
on  the  coast,  and  carried  off  a  number  of  the  natives,  whom  they  sold 
in  Europe  as  slaves.  No  attempt  at  settlement  was  made  until  1602, 
when  Bartholomew  Gosnold,  with  a  colony  of  32  persons,  made  a 
lodgement  on  one  of  the  Elizabeth  Islands.  The  settlement  was 
abandoned  in  a  few  weeks,  however,  in  consequence  of  internal  dis- 
sensions, and  the  expedition  returned  to  England.  This  attempt  had 
the  effect  of  bringing  the  new  country  into  prominent  notice  in  Eng- 
la^d,  and  the  Plymouth  Company  was  organized,  several  years  later, 
under  the  leadership  of  Sir  John  Popham  and  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges, 
the  first  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  King's  Bench,  and  the  other  the 
Governor  of  Plymouth.  This  company  was  given  almost  sovereign 
powers  over  the  territory  assigned  it.  In  1614,  Captain  John  Smith 
published  a  map  of  New  England,  together  with  a  description  of  the 
country  along  the  coast,  which  greatly  increased  the  interest  felt  in 
the  matter.  The  company  sent  out  one  or  two  trading  expeditions, 
which  were  successful ;  but  the  first  permanent  settlement  was  made 
in  1620,  at  Plymouth,  by  a  band  of  English  Puritans,  who  were  flee- 
ing from  religious  persecution  in  their  own  country,  and  whose  at- 
tempt was  made  without  the  sanction  or  authority  of  the  Plymouth 
Company.  They  held  a  patent  from  the  Virginia  Company,  whose 


234  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

territory  lay  south  of  the  Hudson,  and  the  king  would  do  no  more 
than  promise  not  to  molest  them. 

Soon  after  landing  at  Plymouth,  this  colony  made  a  treaty  of  friend- 
ship with  the  Indians,  which  was  not  broken  for  a  long  period.  The 
settlers  endured  many  privations  and  hardships,  but  bore  them  all 
bravely  until  they  had  placed  their  settlement  beyond  all  danger  of 
failure,  and  were  joined  by  other  emigrants  from  England.  Other 
lodgements  were  made  along  the  coast  during  the  next  twenty  years, 
at  Salem,  Boston,  Charlestown,  Eoxbury,  Watertown,  Dorchester, 
Mystic  and  Saugus  (Lynn),  and  other  places.  In  1629,  Charles  I. 
granted  the  Plymouth  Colony  a  charter,  and  the  government  of  the 
province  was  divided  between  the  colonies  of  Plymouth  and  Massa- 
chusetts Bay,  which  were  united  under  one  administration  in  1692. 

The  Bay  colony  was  much  annoyed  by  the  interference  of  the  home 
Government,  which  became  jealous  of  its  rapid  growth  and  prosperity, 
and  after  an  aggravating  contest,  which  at  one  time  bade  fair  to  result 
in  blows,  the  matter  was  settled.  The  king  refused  to  yield  what  he 
claimed  as  his  right  to  interfere  in  the  domestic  affairs  of  the  colony, 
whose  officials,  however,  adroitly  managed  to  prevent  the  exercise  of 
such  authority  on  his  part. 

In  1637,  the  war  against  the  Pequots  broke  out,  and  the  settlements 
towards  Connecticut,  upon  which  colony  fell  the  principal  shock  of 
the  war,  suffered  considerably.  In  1675,  King  Philip's  war  began. 
This  struggle  was  a  bloody  one,  and  lasted  for  more  than  a  year. 
During  its  continuance,  12  or  13  towns  were  destroyed,  more  than 
600  men  were  killed,  and  about  600  houses  burned  by  the  savages. 
The  war  cost  the  colony  half  a  million  of  dollars,  and  rendered  one- 
twentieth  of  the  number  of  families  homeless. 

Massachusetts  at  this  time  claimed  jurisdiction  over  New.  Hamp- 
shire and  Maine,  but  was  deprived  of  it  by  the  home  Government  in 
1684.  This  act  was  followed  by  the  appointment  of  Sir  Edmund 
Andros  as  Governor  of  New  England.  Andros  and  his  Council  were 
guilty  of  the  most  infamous  tyranny.  They  made  laws  and  levied 
taxes  in  the  most  outrageous  manner,  and  rendered  themselves  so 
odious  to  the  colony,  that  as  soon  as  news  was  received  of  the  landing 
of  William  and  Mary  in  England,  the  people  of  Boston  rose  in  arms, 
imprisoned  Andros  and  his  companions,  reinstated  the  former  magis- 
trates, and  declared  for  the  new  king  and  queen.  They  were  sus- 
tained in  this  action  by  the  rest  of  the  province. 

In  1690,  in  the  war  with  France,  Massachusetts  sent  out  an  expe- 


MASSACHUSETTS.  235 

dition  under  Sir  William  Phipps,  which  took  and  plundered  Port 
Royal.  When  the  fleet  returned,  the  Province  was  not  able  to  pay 
the  men  engaged  in  the  expedition,  and  treasury  notes  were  issued  for 
that  purpose.  This  was  the  first  paper  money  seen  in  the  colony. 

In  1692,  the  colonies  of  Plymouth  and  Massachusetts  Bay  were 
united  by  the  Crown  under  one  Government.  Massachusetts  at  this 
time  was  divided  into  the  counties  of  Suffolk,  Essex,  Middlesex,  and 
Hampshire.  It  contained  55  towns,  and  had  a  total  population  of 
about  40,000.  Plymouth  was  divided  into  the  counties  of  Plymouth, 
Bristol,  and  Barnstable.  It  contained  17  towns,  and  had  a  population 
of  7000.  Sir  William  Phipps  was  appointed  the  first  Governor  under 
the  new  charter. 

In  1692,  a  remarkable  delusion  broke  out  in  the  colony  on  the  sub- 
ject of  witchcraft,  beginning  at  and  centering  in  Salem.  In  1703, 
great  suffering  prevailed  along  the  western  border  in  consequence  of 
the  outrages  of  the  French  and  Indians.  During  this  war,  Deerfield 
was  burned  a  second  time,  having  been  first  destroyed  during  King 
Philip's  war.  The  struggle  lasted  several  years,  but  the  colony  con- 
tinued to  grow  and  prosper  in  spite  of  it.  In  1722,  war  was  resumed 
with  the  Indians,  and  continued  for  three  years.  It  was  prosecuted 
with  such  vigor  on  the  part  of  the  province,  that  the  power  of  the 
savages  was  broken  forever,  and  the  long  contest  with  them  which 
had  lasted  for  forty  years  was  finally  and  triumphantly  closed. 

In  1744,  war  again  broke  out  with  France,  and  the  forces  of  the 
province  distinguished  themselves  in  the  capture  of  Louisburg.  Peace 
was  .restored  in  1748,  but  did  not  long  continue.  The  colony  bore  a 
fair  share  in  all  the  struggles  against  the  power  of  France  in  America, 
and  responded  liberally  to  every  call  for  men  and  money.  The  les- 
sons learned  in  these  contests  were  of  infinite  value  in  the  great  strug- 
gle for  freedom  which  followed  them. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  troubles  with  the  mother  country,  the 
province  was  well  settled  in  all  its  parts,  and  had  a  total  population 
of  about  250,000  souls.  In  spite  of  the  efforts  of  Great  Britain  to 
prevent  it,  it  had  built  up  a  flourishing  commerce,  was  largely  engaged 
in  the  fisheries,  and  was  to  some  extent  interested  in  manufactures. 
Its  enterprise  and  energy,  and  above  all,  the  native  independence  of 
its  people,  made  it  the  chief  mark  of  the  aggressions  of  the  Crown, 
which  were  met  by  it  with  spirit  and  firmness.  Massachusetts  was 
the  first  to  inaugurate  an  organized  effort  to  secure  justice  from  the 
Crown,  which  example  was  followed  by  her  sister  provinces.  The 


236  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

events  which  preceded  the  Revolution  having  been  narrated  in  another 
chapter,  it  is  not  necessary  to  return  to  them  here.  Massachusetts, 
being  the  principal  object  of  British  injustice,  was  forced  into  the 
most  prominent  position,  which  she  maintained  with  dignity  and 
credit.  The  other  colonies  made  common  cause  with  her,  and  the 
war  began  in  the  encounter  between  the  Royal  troops  and  the  people 
at  Lexington.  The  conflict  at  Concord  followed,  and  the  people  of 
the  province  flew  to  arms  with  a  rapidity  which  proved  how  thor- 
oughly and  carefully  they  had  prepared  themselves  for  the  main- 
tenance of  their  rights.  During  the  war  which  ensued,  Massachusetts 
sustained  her  reputation  for  patriotism,  bravery,  and  self-sacrifice. 

In  1730  a  State  Constitution  .was  adopted,  and  John  Hancock  was 
elected  Governor  of  the  Commonwealth.  In  1786,  the  people  of  the 
western  counties,  feeling  themselves  too  poor  to  pay  the  heavy  taxes 
levied  for  the  purpose  of  defraying  the  State  debt,  took  up  arms 
against  the  authorities  of  the  Commonwealth.  The  insurrection  was 
settled  after  a  sharp  conflict  with  the  insurgents,  who  were  forced 
to  submit.  The  outbreak  is  known  as  "Shays's  Rebellion,"  in  con- 
sequence of  the  insurgents  having  been  led  by  one  Daniel  Shays. 

The  Constitution  of  the  United  States  was  ratified  by  Massachu- 
setts in  1788.  Although  the  State  opposed  the  second  war  with 
England,  the  seamen  of  Massachusetts  were  true  to  the  country,  and 
formed  a  considerable  part  of  the  crews  of  those  famous  vessels  which 
won  the  glorious  naval  victories  of  the  war.  The  people  of  the  State, 
as  a  whole,  however,  sustained  their  authorities  in  opposin'g  the  war, 
in  which  they  had  a  deeper  interest  than  they  were  willing  to  admit, 
and  throughout  the  struggle  hampered  the  Federal  Government  by  a 
most  unwise  and  unpatriotic  opposition.  The  State  bore  a  prominent 
part  in  the  Hartford  Convention,  in  1814. 

In  1820  the  Constitution  of  the  Commonwealth  was  amended,  and 
again  in  1857.  In  1820  the  State  consented  to  the  separation  of  the 
province  of  Maine,  which  was  in  the  same  year  erected  into  an  inde- 
pendent establishment,  and  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State. 

During  the  late  Rebellion,  Massachusetts  furnished  159,165  men 
to  the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns  are :  Cambridge,  Lowell,  Lynn, 
Lawrence,  Charlestown,  Salem,  New  Bedford,  Newburyport,  Nan- 
tucket,  Gloucester,  Marblehead,  Plymouth,  Provincetown,  Worcester, 


MASSACHUSETTS.  237 

Springfield,  Fall  River,  Chelsea,  Taunton,  Chicopee,  Danvers,  Ando- 
ver,  and  Haverhill. 

BOSTON, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  and  the  largest  city  in  New  England,  is 
situated  on  Massachusetts  Bay,  464  miles  northeast  of  Washington, 
and  236  miles  northeast  of  New  York.  Latitude  42°  21'  22"  N. ; 
longitude  71°  4'  9"  W.  It  is  decidedly  one  of  the  most  interesting 
cities  in  the  Union,  apart  from  its  being  the  metropolis  of  New  Eng- 
land and  the  second  commercial  city  of  the  Republic. 

It  is  divided  into  3  sections,  Boston  proper,  East,  and  South  Bos- 
ton. Boston  proper,  or  the  old  city,  is  built  upon  a  peninsula  origi- 
nally covering  about  700  acres,  but  now  much  enlarged  by  the 
addition  of  "made  land."  The  surface  of  this  peninsula  is  broken  by 
3  hills,  which  caused  the  first  settlers  to  call  the  place  Tremont,  or 
Trimountain.  The  city  was  originally  very  narrow  at  its  southern 
end,  but  the  "  Back  Bay,"  as  the  shoal  water  surrounding  it  is  called, 
is  now  being  filled  up  with  gravel  brought  from  Needham,  to  an  ave- 
rage height  of  18  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  This  "made 
land"  will  eventually  double  the  size  of  the  old  city.  It  is  graded 
as  it  is  formed,  and  is  laid  off  regularly  with  broad  streets  and  hand- 
some parks.  It  is  already  well  built  up,  and  constitutes  the  hand- 
somest part  of  Boston.  It  will  ultimately  be  one  of  the  most  splendid 
cities  in  America.  The  old  city  was  originally  joined  to  the  main 
land  by  a  strip  of  land  called  "The  Neck,"  so  narrow  and  low  that  it 
afforded  scarcely  room  for  a  single  vehicle  to  pass  on  firm  ground. 
Now  it  has  been  raised  and  widened,  and  4  fine  avenues  traverse  it 
and  connect  Boston  and  Roxbury. 

South  Boston  formed  a  part  of  Dorchester  until  1804,  when  it  was 
added  to  Boston.  It  extends  along  the  south  side  of  the  harbor  for 
2  miles,  between  Fort  Independence  and  the  city  proper.  It  is  de- 
voted principally  to  the  residences  of  the  middle  classes.  This  part 
of  the  city  contains  the  famous  "  Dorchester  Heights,"  the  occupation 
of  which  by  Washington,  during  the  Revolution,  compelled  the  British 
commander  to  evacuate  Boston. 

East  Boston  occupies  an  island  in  the  harbor,  formerly  known  as 
Noddle's  Island.  It  is  about  650  yards  distant  from  the  city  proper, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry.  It  contains  a  number 
of  residences  of  the  middle  classes,  and  is  the  seat  of  an  important 
manufacturing  interest.  Shipbuilding  is  carried  on,  and  the  Grand 
Junction  Railroad  terminates  here. 


238  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Boston  proper  may  be  divided  into  the  old  and  the  new  city.  The 
old  city  still  preserves  its  ancient  characteristics.  The  houses  are 
mostly  in  the  style  of  a  century  ago ;  the  streets  are  narrow  and 
crooked,  and  have  a  prim,  formal  air.  "Wandering  through  them, 
one  can  scarcely  help  watching  to  see  some  old-time  Puritan  step  out 
from  the  quaint  doorways.  The  new  city  is  regularly  laid  out.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  straight ;  they  cross  each  other  at  right  angles, 
and  are  lined  with  magnificent  edifices.  Everything  is  modern. 

Near  the  southern  end  of  the  old  city  is  one  of  the  finest  parks  in 
America,  known  as  "  Boston  Common."  It  covers  an  area  of  about 
50  acres,  and  is  beautifully  ornamented.  Adjoining  it  is  a  handsome 
enclosure  of  25  acres,  used  as  a  botanic  garden,  and  known  as  the 
"Public  Garden."  Both  the  "Garden"  and  "  Common  "are  sur- 
rounded by  tasteful  iron  fences.  The  fence  enclosing  the  "Common" 
is  nearly  a  mile  and  an  eighth  in  length.  The  centre  of  the  grounds 
is  occupied  by  a  pretty  little  pond,  from  which  a  fountain  sends  a  fine 
jet  of  water  into  the  air.  Not  far  from  the  pond  is  an  old  elrn,  sup- 
ported by  metallic  bands  and  enclosed  with  an  iron  railing.  It  is  the 
oldest  tree  in  America,  having  attained  its  full  growth  in  1722. 
From  the  pond  the  grounds  rise  abruptly  to  the  State  House,  which 
is  situated  on  Beacon  hill,  just  outside  the  enclosure.  From  this 
point  they  slope  gently  to  Charles  River,  which  washes  the  western 
shore  of  the  city.  Several  small  but  handsome  parks  lie  in  various 
parts  of  the  city. 

The  residences  of  Boston  exhibit  considerable  tasfe,  and  much 
wealth,  but  are  marked  by  a  sameness  peculiar  to  American  cities, 
and  the  stores  and  public  buildings  are  among  the  finest  in  the 
country. 

The  State  House,  on  Beacon  street  and  Beacon  hill,  is  a  handsome, 
old-style  structure,  surmounted  by  a  fine  dome.  It  occupies  the  high- 
est ground  in  the  city,  and  is  the  most  prominent  feature  of  any  view 
of  Boston.  Its  foundation  is  110  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It 
was  commenced  in  1795,  and  completed  in  1798,  at  a  cost  of  $133,330. 
In  1855  it  was  enlarged,  $243,204  being  expended  upon  it  for  that 
purpose.  From  the  dome,  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city,  the  harbor, 
and  the  surrounding  country  may  be  had.  More  than  a  dozen  cities 
and  towns  can  be  seen  from  it,  and  in  fair  weather,  the  White  Moun- 
tains of  New  Hampshire  may  be  dimly  discerned.  The  State  Library 
is  located  in  this  building,  and  contains  more  than  25,000  volumes. 
In  the  rotunda  is  a  collection  of  flags  taken  from  the  Southern  forces 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


239 


STATE    HOUSE,    BOSTON. 

during  the  late  war,  and  two  cannon  captured  from  the  British  daring 
the  war  of  1812-15.  In  the  Doric  Hall,  on  the  entrance  floor,  is 
Chantrey's  statue  of  "Washington.  Statues  of  Daniel  Webster  and 
Horace  Mann  ornament  the  steps  facing  the  "Common."  The 
Chambers  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Delegates  are  handsome  apart- 
ments. 

The  Old  State  House,  at  the  head  of  State  street,  is  a  venerable  and 
interesting  building.  The  General  Court  sat  here  until  the  comple- 
tion of  the  new  State  House,  and  in  the  square  just  below  it  occurred 
the  famous  "  Boston  Massacre." 

The  Court  House,  on  Court  street,  the  Merchants'  Exchange  and 
Post  Office,  on  State  street,  and  the  Custom  House,  at  the  foot  of  State 
street,  are  fine  granite. buildings,  and  among  the  principal  ornaments 
of  the  city.  The  City  Hall,  on  School  street,  is  a  magnificent  edifice, 
of  light  New  Hampshire  granite.  It  contains  the  offices  of  the  City 
Government,  but  is  badly  located,  and  is  almost  hidden  by  the  sur- 
rounding houses.  Just  opposite  it  stands  a  fine  white  marble  hotel, 
called  the  "  Parker  House."  The  Horticultural  Hall  and  the  Masonic 


240 


THE    GKEAT    REPUBLIC. 


FAXEUIL     HALL. 


Temple,  on  Tremont  street,  opposite  the  Common,  are  amongst  the 
handsomest  buildings  in  the  city.  They  are  exhibited  to  strangers 
by  the  Bostonians  with  a  pardonable  pride.  The  former  is  built  of 
white  marble,  and  the  latter  of  a  fine  granite. 

Faneuil  Hall,  in  Faneuil  Hall  Square,  is  decidedly  the  most  inter- 
esting building  in  Boston.  It  is  a  large  old-fashioned  building. 
The  lower  part  is  used  as  a  market,  and  the  upper  part  as  a  public 
hall.  It  is  129  years  old,  and  was  built  in  1742,  by  Peter  Faneuil, 
who  presented  it  to  the  city  for  a  town  hall.  It  was  destroyed  by  fire 
in  1761,  rebuilt  in  1763,  and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimensions  in 
1805.  It  is  often  called  "The  Cradle  of  Liberty,"  since  the  public 
meetings  of  the  patriots  were  held  here  in  the  exciting  days  which 
preceded  the  Revolution.  To  the  east  of  the  Hall  is  a  fine  granite 
building  called  the  Quincy  Market.  The  upper  part  comprises  one 
of  the  largest  halls  in  the  Union. 

The  Music  Hall,  fronting  on  Winter  street  and  Bumstead  place,  is 
one  of  the  best  halls  in  the  country,  and  contains  the  great  organ,  one 


MASSACHUSETTS.  241 

of  the  most  powerful  and  excellent  instruments  ever  constructed.  It 
was  built  at  Ludwigslust,  in  Germany.  It  contains  about  6000  pipes 
and  89  stops.  It  is  60  feet  high,  48  feet  broad,  and  24  feet  deep.  It 
cost  $60,000. 

The  literary  and  scientific  institutions  of  Boston  are  amongst  the 
best  in  the  country. 

The  Athenceum,  situated  on  Beacon  street,  is  one  of  the  wealthiest 
organizations  in  the  world.  It  occupies  a  splendid  freestone  building, 
and  possesses  a  library  of  90,000  volumes,  besides  pamphlets  and 
manuscripts,  and  fine  galleries  of  paintings  and  statuary. 

The  Public  Library  occupies  a  handsome  brick  building  on  Boyls- 
ton  street,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $250,000.  It  is  one  of  the  noblest  in- 
stitutions in  the  world.  Its  collection  is  free  to  all  tax-payers  upon 
certain  liberal  conditions.  It  contains  nearly  200,000  volumes. 

The  Mercantile  Library,  on  Summer  street,  contains  over  20,000 
volumes.  The  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  possesses  one  of  the 
best  American  libraries  in  the  world.  It  numbers  about  13,000  voU 
umes,  besides  many  valuable  maps,  charts,  papers,  manuscripts,  and 
other  documents.  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  has  also 
a  good  library.  That  of  the  American  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences 
numbers  over  20,000  volumes.  The  others  are  the  State  Library, 
Social  Law  Library,  and  General  Theological  Library.  Besides  these, 
the  city  will  compare  favorably  with  any  in  the  country,  with  respect 
to  its  private  libraries. 

The  other  institutions  of  a  literary  and  scientific  character  are,  the 
Lowell  Institute,  the  Institute  of  Technology,  the  Natural  History  So- 
ciety, the  American  Statistical  Society,  the  Musical,  Educational,  and 
Handel  and  Haydn  Societies,  and  the  Boston  Academy  of  Music. 

The  public  schools  of  Boston  are  amongst  the  best  in  the  world. 
There  are  254  primary,  20  grammar,  and  3  high  schools  in  the  city. 
The  school  houses  alone  have  cost  the  city  about  $2,980,000,  and  the 
annual  sum  expended  for  their  support  is  about  $800,000.  Besides 
these,  there  are  a  large  number  of  private  schools  in  the  city. 

The  benevolent  institutions  are  numerous  and  well  endowed.  The 
Massachusetts  General  Hospital,  on  Charles  River,  just  opposite 
Charlestown,  and  the  new  Free  City  Hospital,  at  the  "South  End," 
are  fine  institutions.  The  buildings  of  the  latter  constitute  one  of  the 
principal  ornaments  of  the  city.  The  McLean  Asylum  for  the  Insane, 
a  branch  of  the  General  Hospital,  is  located  at  Somerville,  two  miles 
northwest  of  Boston.  The  Boston  Lunatic  Asylum  is  situated  in 
16 


242  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

South  Boston,  and  the  Perkins  Institution  and  Massachusetts  Asylum 
for  the  Blind  is  in  the  same  part  of  the  city.  The  Alms  House,  the 
House  of  Industry  and  Reformation,  and  the  Quarantine  Hospital  are 
on  Deer  Island.  There  are  over  60  benevolent  institutions  in  the 
city.  We  have  not  the  space  to  name  each  one,  and  have  given  only 
the  most  important. 

About  125  newspapers  and  periodicals  are  issued  in  Boston,  6  of 
which  are  daily.  Several  of  the  leading  literary  and  scientific  jour- 
nals of  the  country  are  published  here. 

There  are  more  than  115  churches  in  the  city,  the  largest  .number 
belonging  to  the  Unitarians.  Christ  Church  (Episcopal)  in  Salem 
street,  was  erected  in  1722,  Trinity  Church  (Episcopal)  in  1734,  and 
King's  Chapel  in  1636.  The  graveyard  attached  to  the  last  named 
church  contains  the  remains  of  many  of  the  Puritan  settlers,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  in  the  city.  The  Old  South  Church, 
on  Washington  street,  was  erected  in  1730.  The  original  edifice  was 
of  wood,  and  was  built  in  1670.  It  was  one  of  the  famous  meeting 
places  of  the  leaders  of  the  Revolution,  and  during  the  occupation  of 
the  city  by  the  British,  was  used  as  a  riding-school.  In  the  front  of 
the  tower  of  the  Brattle  Street  Church,  finished  in  1773,  may  be  seen 
a  round  shot  fired  from  the  American  batteries  at  Cambridge  during 
the  evacuation  of  Boston  by  the  British.  The  church  edifices  of  Bos- 
ton, as  a  general  rule,  are  not  so  handsome  as  those  of  the  other  large 
cities  of  the  Union. 

The  Cemeteries  are  Mount  Auburn,  Forest  Hill,  and  Woodlawn. 
They  are  very  beautiful,  Mount  Auburn  being  one  of  the  loveliest  in 
the  world. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  theatres  and  places  of  amusement. 
The  Boston  Theatre  is  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  halls  in  the 
world. 

Boston  is  connected  with  the  surrounding  cities  of  Cambridge, 
Charlestown,  and  Chelsea,  and  with  South  Boston  by  seven  fine 
bridges.  Nearly  all  are  free,  and  all  will  eventually  become  so.  A 
massive  causeway  unites  it  with  Brookline,  now  a  part  of  the  city. 

Telegraph  lines  enter  the  city  from  all  parts  of  the  Union,  and 
there  is  also  a  municipal  fire  alarm  and  police  telegraph  'connecting 
the  various  sections  of  the  corporate  limits. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  excellent  water 
from  Cochituate  Lake,  20  miles  distant.  Lines  of  horse  cars  connect 
all  parts  of  Boston  with  a  common  centre  at  the  foot  of  Tremont 
street,  and  with  the  surrounding  towns  a,nd  villages. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  243 

Seven  lines  of  railroad  terminate  here,  extending  directly  to  the 
Eastern,  Middle,  Southern,  and  Western  States,  and  into  Canada. 

The  principal  hotels  are  the  Parker,  Tremont,  and  Revere  Houses, 
and  the  American,  St.  James,  and  United  States  Hotels. 

The  wharves  are  the  finest  in  the  United  States,  and  among  the 
best  in  the  world.  They  would  measure  an  aggregate  length  of  6 
miles,  and  are  lined  with  splendid  warehouses,  many  of  which  are 
built  of  a  rough  granite,  and  are  very  handsome. 

The  harbor  opens  to  the  sea  between  Point  Alderton,  on  Nantaskct, 
and  Point  Shirley,  in  Chelsea.  The  distance  across  from  point  to  point 
is  about  4  miles.  There  are  three  entrances  formed  by  several  islands 
which  lie  in  the  lower  part.  The  main  channel  lies  between  Castle 
and  Governor's  Islands,  and  is  so  narrow  that  two  ships  can  scarcely 
sail  abreast  through  it.  It  is  defended  by  Fort  Independence  and 
Fort  Winthrop.  Fort  Winthrop  also  protects  the  passage  north  of 
Governor's  Island,  and  Fort  Warren,  on  George's  Island,  guards  the 
lower  entrance.  The  harbor  covers  an  area  estimated  at  75  square 
miles.  It  is  free  from  sand-bars,  is  rarely  closed  by  ice,  is  sheltered 
from  the  sea,  and  is  easy  of  access.  About  one-half  of  it  affords  a 
sure  anchorage  for  vessels  of  the  largest  class.  It  receives  the  waters 
of  the  Charles,  Mystic,  Neponset,  and  Manatiquot  rivers. 

Boston  is  the  second  commercial  city  in  the  Union.  In  1864,  its 
total  imports  were  valued  at  $30,751,595,  and  its  exports  at 
$21,142,^34. 

There  are  about  45  banks  in  the  city,  with  a  capital  of  about 
$30,000,000. 

The  population  (including  Roxbury  and  Dorchester)  is  250,526. 

Roxbury  was,  until  a  few  years  since,  a  distinct  city  of  Norfolk 
county,  but  is  now  a  part  of  the  corporation  of  Boston.  At  the  be- 
ginning of  the  present  century  it  was  situated  3  or  4  miles  south  of 
Boston,  but  the  intervening  distance  has  since  been  built  up,  and  the 
two  cities,  for  some  time  before  their  union,  joined  each  other  so 
closely  that  a  stranger  could  not  tell  where  one  began  or  the  other 
ended.  It  contains  a  number  of  manufactures  of  its  own,  but  is  oc- 
cupied principally  by  the  residences  of  persons  doing  business  in 
Boston.  The  city  abounds  in  picturesque  views,  and  many  of  its  lo- 
calities are  very  beautiful.  It  contained  a  population  of  about  30,000 
previous  to  its  annexation  to  Boston. 

Dorchester,  in  Norfolk  county,  has  been  recently  annexed  to  Boston. 
Like  Roxbury,  this  city  was  chiefly  occupied  with  residences.  It 
contains  a  population  of  about  1 5  000, 


244  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Boston,  as  we  have  said,  was  originally  called  Tremont.  Its  first 
white  inhabitant  was  the  Rev.  John  Blackstone,  who  lived  here  alone 
until  the  arrival  of  Governor  Winthrop,  in  1630,  when  a  settlement 
was  established  here.  By  the  year  1635,  quite  a  thriving  village  had 
sprung  up,  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Blackstone  sold  his  claim  to  the  penin- 
sula for  <£30.  The  first  church  was  erected  in  1632,  and  the  firsi 
wharf  in  1673.  In  1677,  the  first  postmaster  was  appointed,  and  in 
1704,  the  first  newspaper,  called  The  Boston  News  Letter,  was  issued. 
Boston  was  one  of  the -first  communities  to  resist  the  aggressions  of 
the  mother  country,  and  was  the  scene  of  many  of  the  most  interesting 
of  the  events  which  preceded  the  Revolution.  On  the  5th  of  March, 
1770,  the  "Boston  Massacre"  occurred  ;  on  the  31st  of  March,  1774, 
the  harbor  of  Boston  was  closed;  on  the  17th  of  June,  1775,  the  bat- 
tle of  Bunker  Hill  was  fought;  and  in  March,  1776,  the  town  was 
evacuated  by  the  British.  Boston  was  incorporated  as  a  city  on  the 
23d  of  February,  1822. 

The  following  incidents  in  the  early  history  of  Boston  will  be  found 
interesting  by  the  reader : 

THE    BOSTON    MASSACRE. 

On  the  2d  of  March,  1770,  a  fray  took  place  in  Boston,  near  Mr.  Gray's  rope, 
walk,  between  a  private  soldier  of  the  29th  Regiment  and  an  inhabitant.  The 
former  was  supported  by  his  comrades,  the  latter  by  the  rope-makers,  till  several 
on  both  sides  were  involved  in  the  consequences.  On  the  5th  a  more  dreadful 
scene  was  presented.  The  soldiers  when  under  arms  were  pressed  upon,  insulted, 
and  pelted  by  a  mob  armed  with  clubs,  sticks,  and  snow  balls  covering  stones. 
They  were  also  dared  to  fire.  In  this  situation,  one  of  the  soldiers,  who  had 
received  a  blow,  in  resentment  fired  at  the  supposed  aggressor.  This  was  followed 
by  a  single  discharge  from  six  others.  Three  of  the  inhabitants  were  killed,  and 
five  were  dangerously  wounded.  The  town  was  immediately  in  commotion. 
Such  was  the  temper,  force,  and  number  of  the  inhabitants,  that  nothing  but  an 
engagement  to  remove  the  troops  out  of  the  town,  together  with  the  advice  of 
moderate  men  prevented  the  townsmen  from  falling  on  the  soldiers.  The  killed 
were  buried  in  one  vault,  and  in  a  most  respectful  manner,  in  order  to  express 
the  indignation  of  the  inhabitants  at  the  slaughter  of  their  brethren,  by  soldiers 
quartered  among  them,  in  violation  of  their  civil  liberties.  Captain  Preston,  who 
commanded  the  party  which  fired  on  the  inhabitants,  was  committed  to  jail,  and 
afterwards  tried.  The  captain,  and  six  of  the  men,  were  acquitted.  Two  were 
brought  in  guilty  of  manslaughter.  It  appeared,  on  the  trial,  that  the  soldiers 
were  abused,  insulted,  threatened  and  pelted,  before  they  fired.  It  was  also 
proved,  that  only  seven  guns  were  fired  by  the  eight  prisoners.  These  circum- 
stances induced  the  jury  to  make  a  favorable  verdict.  The  result  of  the  trial 
reflected  great  honor  on  John  Adams  (the  late  President  of  the  United  States) 
and  Josiah  Quincy,  Esqrs.  the  counsel  for  the  prisoners  ;  and  also  on  the  integrity 
of  the  jury,  who  ventured  to  give  an  upright  verdict,  in  defiance  of  popular 
opinions. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  245 

The  people,  not  dismayed  by  the  blood  of  their  neighbors  thus  wantonly  shed, 
determined  no  longer  to  submit  to  the  insolence  of  military  power.  Col.  Dal- 
rymple,  who  commanded  in  Boston,  was  informed  the  day  after  the  riot  in  King 
street,  "that  he  must  withdraw  his  troops  from  the  town  within  a  limited  term, 
or  hazard  the  consequences." 

The  inhabitants  of  the  town  assembled  in  Faneuil  Hall,  where  the  subject  was 
discussed  with  becoming  spirit,  and  the  people  unanimously  resolved  that  no 
armed  force  should  be  suffered  longer  to  reside  in  the  capital ;  that  if  the  king's 
troops  were  not  immediately  withdrawn  by  their  own  officers,  the  Governor  should 
be  requested  to  give  orders  for  their  removal,  and  thereby  prevent  the  necessity 
of  more  rigorous  steps.  A  committee  from  the  body  was  deputed  to  wait  on  the 
Governor,  and  request  him  to  exert  that  authority  which  the  exigencies  of  the 
times  required  from  the  supreme  magistrate.  Mr.  Samuel  Adams,  the  chairman 
of  the  committee,  with  a  pathos  and  address  peculiar  to  himself,  exposed  the 
illegality  of  quartering  troops  in  the  town  in  the  midst  of  peace ;  he  urged  the 
apprehensions  of  the  people,  and  the  fatal  .consequences  that  might  ensue  if  their 
removal  was  delayed. 

But  no  arguments  could  prevail  on  Mr.  Hutcliinson  ;  who  either  from  timidity, 
or  some  more  censurable  cause,  evaded  acting  at  all  in  the  business,  and  grounded 
his  refusal  on  a  pretended  want  of  authority.  After  which,  Col.  Dalrymple, 
wishing  to  compromise  the  matter,  consented  that  the  29th  Regiment,  more 
culpable  than  any  other  in  the  late  tumult,  should  be  sent  to  Castle  Island.  This- 
concession  was  by  no  means  satisfactory  ;  the  people,  inflexible  in  their  demands, 
insisted  that  not  one  British  soldier  should  be  left  within  the  town  ;  their  requisi- 
tion was  reluctantly  complied  with,  and  within  four  days  the  whole  army  decamped. 

THE   DESTRUCTION    OF   THE  TEA  IN  BOSTON  HARBOR. 

As  we  have  stated  in  another  part  of  this"  work,  the  cargoes  of  three 
of  the  tea  ships  sent  over  to  Boston  in  1773  were  destroyed  by  the 
citizens,  in  consequence  of  the  refusal  of  the  Governor  to  permit  the 
vessels  to  return  to  England.  The  following  narrative  of  the  occurence 
is  by  one  of  the  actors  in  it — Mr.  Hewes  : 

The  tea  destroyed  was  contained  in  three  ships,  lying  near  each  other,  at  what 
was  called  at  that  time  Griffin's  wharf,  and  were  surrounded  by  armed  ships  of 
war;  the  commanders  of  which  had  publicly  declared,  that  if  the  rebels,  as  they 
were  pleased  to  style  the  Bostonians,  should  not  withdraw  their  opposition  to  the 
landing  of  the  tea  before  a  certain  day,  the  17th  day  of  December,  1773,  they 
should  on  that  day  force  it  onshore,  under  the  cover  of  their  cannon's  mouth. 
On  the  day  preceding  the  17th,  there  was  a  meeting  of  the  citizens,  of  the  county 
of  Suffolk,  convened  at  one  of  the  churches  in  Boston,  for  the  purpose  of  consult- 
ing on  what  measures  might  be  considered  expedient  to  prevent  the  landing  of 
the  tea,  or  secure  the  people  from  the  collection  of  the  duty.  At  that  meeting  a 
committee  was  appointed  to  wait  on  Governor  Hutcliinson,  and  request  him  to 
inform  them  whether  he  would  take  any  measures  to  satisfy  the  people  on  the 
object  of  the  meeting.  To  the  first  application  of  this  committee,  the  Governor 
told  them  he  would  give  them  a  definite  answer  by  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
At  the  hour  appointed,  the  committee  again  repaired  to  the  Governor's  house,  and 
on  inquiry  found  he  had  gone  to  his  country  seat  at  Milton,  a  distance  of  about 


24G  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

six  miles.  "When  the  committee  returned  and  informed  the  meeting  of  the 
absence  of  the  Governor,  there  was  a  contused  murmur  among  the  members,  and 
the  meeting  was  immediately  dissolved,  many  of  them  crying  out,  Let  every  man 
do  his  duty,  and  be  true  to  his  country  ;  and  there  was  a  general  huzza  for  Griffin's 
wharf.  It  was  now  evening,  and  I  immediately  'dressed  myself  in  the  costume 
of  an  Indian,  equipped  with  a  small  hatchet,  which  I  and  my  associates  denomi- 
nated the  tomahawk,  with  which,  and  a  club,  after  having  painted  my  face  and 
hands  with  coal  dust  in  the  shop  of  a  blacksmith,  I  repaired  to  Griffin's  wharf, 
where  the  ships  lay  that  contained  the  tea.  When  I  first  appeared  in  the  street, 
after  being  thus  disguised,  I  fell  in  with  many  who  were  dressed,  equipped  and 
painted  as  I  was,  and  who  fell  in  with  me,  and  marched  in  order  to  the  place  of 
our  destination.  When  we  arrived  at  the  wharf,  there  were  three  of  our  number 
who  assumed  an  authority  to  direct  our  operations,  to  which  we  readily  submitted. 
They  divided  us  into  three  parties,  for  the  purpose  of  boarding  the  three  ships 
which  contained  the  tea  at  the  same  time.  The  name  of  him  who  commanded 
the  division  to  which  I  was  assigned,  was  Leonard  Pitt.  The  names  of  the  other 
commanders  I  never  knew.  We  were  immediately  ordered  by  the  respective 
commanders  to  board  all  the  ships  at  the  same  time,  which  we  promptly  obeyed. 
The  commander  of  the  division  to  which  I  belonged,  as  soon  as  we  were  onboard 
the  ship,  appointed  me  boatswain,  and  ordered  me  to  go  to  the  captain,  and 
demand  of  him  the  keys  to  the  hatches  and  a  dozen  candles.  I  made  the  demand 
accordingly,  and  the  captain  promptly  replied,  and  delivered  the  articles ;  but 
requested  me  at  the  same  time  to  do  no  damage  to  the  ship  or  rigging.  We  then 
were  ordered  by  our  commander  to  open  the  hatches,  and  take  out  all  the  chests 
of  tea  and  thro\v  them  overboard,  and  we  immediately  proceeded  to  execute  his 
orders  ;  first  cutting  and  splitting  the  chests  with  our  tomahawks,  so  as  thoroughly 
to  expose  them  to  the  effects  of  the  water.  In  about  three  hours  from  the  time 
we  went  on  board,  we  had  thus  broken  and  thrown  overboard  every  tea-chest  to 
be  found  in  the  ship,  while  those  in  the  other  ships  were  disposing  of  the  tea  in 
the  same  way,  at  the  same  time.  We  were  surrounded  by  British  armed  ships, 
but  no  attempt  was  made  to  resist  us.  We  then  quietly  retired  to  our  several 
places  of  residence,  without  having  any  conversation  with  each  other,  or  taking 
any  measures  to  discover  who  were  our  associates ;  nor  do  I  recollect  of  our 
having  had  the  knowledge  of  the  name  of  a  single  individual  concerned  in  that 
affair,  except  that  of  Leonard  Pitt,  the  commander  of  my  division,  who  I  have 
mentioned.  There  appeared  to  be  an  understanding  that  each  individual  should 
volunteer  his  services,  keep  his  own  secret,  and  risk  the  consequences  for  himself. 
No  disorder  took  place  during  that  transaction,  and  it  was  observed  at  that  time, 
that  the  stillest  night  ensued  that  Boston  had  enjoyed  for  many  months. 

During  the  time  we  were  throwing  the  tea  overboard,  there  were  several 
attempts  made  by  some  of  the  citizens  of  Boston  and  its  vicinity,  to  carry  off 
small  quantities  of  it  for  their  family  use.  To  effect  that  object,  they  would 
watch  their  opportunity  to  snatch  up  a  handful  from  the  deck,  where  it  became 
plentifully  scattered,  and  put  it  into  their  pockets.  One  Captain  O' Conner, 
whom  I  well  knew,  came  on  board  for  that  purpose,  and  when  he  supposed  he 
was  not  noticed,  filled  his  pockets,  and  also  the  lining  of  his  coat.  But  I  had 
detected  him,  and  gave  information  to  the  captain  of  what  he  was  doing.  We 
were  ordered  to  take  him  into  custody,  and  just  as  he  was  stepping  from  the 
vessel,  I  seized  him  by  the  skirt  of  his  coat,  and  in  attempting  to  pull  him  back, 
I  tore  it  off  but  springing  forward,  by  a  rapid  effort  he  made  his  escape.  He  had 


MASSACHUSETTS.  247 

however  to  run  a  gauntlet  through  the  crowd  upon  the  wharf;  each  one,  as  he 
passed,  giving  him  a  kick  or  a  stroke. 

The  next  day  we  nailed  the  skirt  of  his  coat,  which  I  had  pulled  off,  to  the 
whipping  post  in  Charlestown,  the  place  of  his  residence,  with  a  label  upon  it, 
commemorative  of  the  occasion  which  had  thus  subjected  the  proprietor  to  the 
popular  indignation. 

Another  attempt  Ayas  made  to  save  a  little  tea  from  the  ruins  of  the  cargo,  by  a 
tall  aged  man,  who  wore  a  large  cocked  hat  and  white  wig,  which  was  fashionable 
at  that  time.  He  had  slightly  slipped  a  little  into  his  pocket,  but  being  detected, 
they  seized  him,  and  taking  his  hat  and  wig  from  his  head,  threw  them,  together 
with  the  tea,  of  which  they  had  emptied  his  pockets,  into  the  water.  In  considera- 
tion of  his  advanced  age,  he  was  permitted  to  escape,  with  now  and  then  a  slight 
kick. 

The  next  morning,  after  we  had  cleared  the  ships  of  the  tea,  it  was  discovered 
that  very  considerable  quantities  of  it  was  floating  upon  the  surface  of  the  water  ; 
and  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  any  of  it  being  saved  for  use,  a  number  of  small 
boats  were  manned  by  sailors  and  citizens,  who  rowed  them  into  those  parts  of 
the  harbor  wherever  the  tea  was  visible,  and  by  beating  it  with  oars  and  paddles, 
so  thoroughly  drenched  it,  as  to  render  its  entire  destruction  inevitable. 

CHARLESTOWN, 

In  Middlesex  county,  is  situated  on  a  peninsula  immediately  north  of 
Boston,  is  separated  from  it  by  the  Charles  River,  and  is  connected 
with  it  by  several  bridges.  It  is  regularly  laid  off,  and  handsomely 
built.  It  contains  a  number  of  churches,  several  banks,  a  large 
hotel,  and>he  State  Prison.  It  is  supplied  with  water  from  Mystic 
Lake,  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  traversed  by  several  street  railways. 
It  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures,  but  is,  after  all,  merely  a 
suburb  of  Boston,  the  majority  of  its  inhabitants  pursuing  their  avo- 
cations in  that  city. 

It  contains  an  important  Navy  Yard  of  the  United  States,  which 
covers  an  area  of  70  or  80  acres.  This  is,  perhaps,  the  most  complete 
establishment  owned  by  the  Government. 

The  population  of  Charlestown  is  28,323. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city  stands  Breed's  Hill,  or,  as  it  is  more  com- 
monly called,  Bunker  Hill,  the  scene  of  the  battle  of  the  17th  of  June, 
1775.  The  site  of  the  old  American  redoubt  is  enclosed  with  a  hand- 
some iron  railing,  and  marked  by  a  magnificent  shaft  of  granite  220 
feet  high,  31  feet  square  at  the  base,  and  15  at  the  top.  It  is  ascended 
by  means  of  an  inner  winding  stairway,  which  leads  to  a  chamber 
immediately  at  the  top.  In  this  chamber  are  two  old  cannon,  which, 
with  two  others,  constituted  all  the  artillery  owned  by  the  Americans 
at  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution.  The  corner  stone  of  this  monu- 
ment was  laid  by  Lafayette,  on  the  17th  of  June,  1825,  in  presence 
<jf  an  immense  concourse  of  citizens. 


248 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

•I 


BUNKER    HILL    MONUMENT. 


The  following  is  a  description  of  the  struggle  which  the  shaft  com- 
memorates : 

After  the  affair  of  Lexington  and  Concord,  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775,  the 
people,  animated  by  one  common  impulse,  flew  to  arms  in  every  direction.  The 
husbandman  changed  his  ploughshare  tor  a  musket ;  and  about  15,000  men,  10,000 
from  Massachusetts,  and  the  remainder  from  New  Hampshire,  Rhode  Island,  and 
Connecticut,  assembled  under  General  Ward  in  the  environs  of  Boston,  then  oc- 
cupied by  10,000  highly  disciplined  and  well  equipped  British  troops,  under  the 
command  of  Generals  Gage,  Howe,  Clinton,  Burgoyne,  Pigot  and  others. 

Fearing  an  intention,  on  the  part  of  the  British,  to  occupy  the  important 
heights  at  Clmrlestown  and  Dorchester,  which  would  enable  them  to  command 
the  surrounding  country,  Colonel  Prescott  was  detached,  by  his  own  desire,  from 
the  American  camp  at  Cambridge,  on  the  evening  of  the  16th  of  June,  1775,  with 
about  1000  militia,  mostly  of  Massachusetts,  including  120  men  of  Putnam's  regi- 
ment from  Connecticut,  and  one  artillery  company,  to  Bunker  Hill,  with  a  view 
to  occupy  and  foitify  that  post.  At  this  hill  the  detachment  made  a  short  halt, 
but  concluded  to  advance  still  nearer  the  British,  and  accordingly  took  possession 
of  Breed's  Hill,  a  position  which  commanded  the  whole  inner  harbor  of  Boston. 
Here,  about  midnight,  they  commenced  throwing  up  a  redoubt,  which  they  com- 
pleted, notwithstanding  every  possible  effort  from  the  British  ships  and  batteries 
to  prevent  them,  about  noon  the  next  day. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  249 

So  silently  had  the  operations  been  conducted  through  the  night,  that  the 
British  had  not  the  most  distant  notice  of  the  design  of  the  Americans,  until  day- 
break presented  to  their  view  the  half- formed  battery  and  daring  stand  made 
against  them.  A  dreadful  cannonade,  accompanied  with  shells,  was  immediately 
commenced  from  the  British  battery  at  Copps'  Hill,  and  the  ships  of  war  and 
floating  batteries  stationed  in  Charles  River. 

The  break  of  day,  on  the  17th  of  June,  1775,  presented  a  scene,  which,  for 
dar'.ng  and  firmness,  could  never  be  surpassed  ;  1000  unexperienced  militia,  in 
the  attire  of  their  various  avocations,  without  discipline,  almost  without  artillery 
and  bayonets,  scantily  supplied  with  ammunition,  and  wholly  destitute  of  provis- 
ions, defying  the  power  of  the  formidable  British  fleet  and  army,  determined  to 
maintain  the  liberty  of  their  soil,  or  moisten  that  soil  with  their  blood. 

Without  aid,  however,  from  the  main  body  of  the  army,  it  seemed  impossible 
to  maintain  their  position  ;  the  men  having  been  without  sleep,  toiling  through 
the  night,  and  destitute  of  the  necessary  food  required  by  nature,  had  become 
nearly  exhausted.  Representations  were  repeatedly  made,  through  the  morning,, 
to  headquarters,  of  the  necessity  of  reinforcements  and  supplies.  Major  Brooks, 
the  late  revered  Governor  of  Massachusetts,  who  commanded  a  battalion  of  min- 
ute-men at  Concord,  set  out  for  Cambridge  about  9  o'clock  on  foot  (it  being  im- 
possible to  procure  a  horse),  soliciting  succor  ;  but  as  there  were  two  other  points 
exposed  to  the  British,  Roxbury  and  Cambridge,  then  the  headquarters,  at  which 
place  all  the  little  stores  of  the  army  were  collected,  and  the  loss  of  which  would 
be  incalculable  at  that  moment,  great  fears  were  entertained  lest  they  should 
march  over  the  neck  to  Roxbury,  and  attack  the  camp  there,  or  pass  over  Ihe  bay 
in  boats  (there  being  at  that  time  no  artificial  avenue  to  connect  Boston  with  the 
adjacent  country),  attack  the  headquarters,  and  destroy  the  stores:  it  was  there- 
fore deemed  impossible  to  afford  an}r  reenforccment  to  Chaiiestown  Heights,  till 
the  movements  of  the  British  rendered  evidence  of  their  intention  certain. 

The  fire  from  the  Glasgow  frigate  and  two  floating  batteries  in  Charles  River, 
were  wholly  directed  with  a  view  to  prevent  any  communication  across  the  isth- 
mus that  connects  Charlestown  with  the  mainland,  which  kept  up  a  continued 
shower  of  missiles,  and  rendered  the  communication  truly  dangerous  to  those  Avho 
should  attempt  it.  When  the  intention  of  the  British  to  attack  the  heights  of 
Charlestown  became  apparent,  the  remainder  of  Putnam's  regiment,  Colonel  Gar- 
diner's regiment  (both  of  which,  as  to  numbers,  were  very  imperfect),  and  some 
New  Hampshire  militia,  marched,  notwithstanding  the  heavy  fire,  across  the 
neck,  for  Charlestown  Heights,  where  they  arrived,  much  fatigued,  just  after  the 
British  had  moved  to  the  first  attack. 

The  British  commenced  crossing  the  troops  from  Boston  about  12  o'clock,  and 
landed  at  Morton's  Point,  southeast  from  Breed's  Hill.  At  2  o'clock,  from  the 
best  accounts  that  can  be  obtained,  they  landed  between  3000  and  4000  men,  un- 
der the  immediate  command  of  General  Howe,  and  formed,  in  apparently  invin- 
cible order,  at  the  base  of  the  hill. 

The  position  of  the  Americans,  at  this  time,  was  a  redoubt  on  the  summit  of 
the  height,  of  about  8  rods  square,  and  a  breastwork  extending,  on  the  left  of  it, 
about  70  feet  down  the  eastern  decli-vity  of  the  hill.  This  redoubt  and  breastwork 
was  commanded  by  Prescott  in  person,  who  had  superintended  its  construction, 
and  who  occupied  it  with  the  Massachusetts  militia  of  his  detachment,  and  a  part 
of  Little's  regiment,  which  had  arrived  about  1  o'clock.  They  were  dreadfully 
deficient  in  equipments  and  ammunition,  had  been  toiling  incessantly  for  many 


250  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

hours,  and,  it  is  said  by  some  accounts,  even  then  were  destitute  of  provisions. 
A  little  to  the  eastward  of  the  redoubt,  and  northerly  to  the  rear  of  it,  was  a  rail 
fence,  extending  almost  to  Mystic  River  ;  to  this  fence  another  had  been  added 
during  the  night  and  forenoon,  and  some  newly  mown  grass  thrown  against 
them,  to  afford  something  like  a  cover  to  the  troops.  At  this  fence  the  120  Con- 
necticut militia  were  posted. 

The  movements  of  the  British  made  it  evident  their  intention  was  to  march  a 
strong  column  along  the  margin  of  the  Mystic,  and  turn  the  redoubt  on  the  north, 
while  another  column  attacked  it  in  front ;  accordingly,  to  prevent  this  design,  a 
large  force  became  necessary  at  the  breastwork  and  rail  fence.  The  whole  of  the 
reinforcements  that  arrived,  amounting  in  all  to  800  or  1000  men,  were  ordered 
to  this  point  by  General  Putnam,  who  had  been  extremely  active  throughout  the 
ui^ht  and  morning,  and  had  accompanied  the  expedition. 

At  this  moment  thousands  of  persons  of  both  sexes  had  collected  on  the  church 
steeples,  Beacon  Hill,  house  tops,  and  every  place  in  Boston  and  its  neighbor- 
hood, where  a 'view  of  the  battle  ground  could  be  obtained,  viewing,  with  painful 
anxiety,  the  movements  of  the  combatants ;  wondering,  yet  admiring  the  bold 
stand  of  the  Americans,  and  trembling  at  the  thoughts  of  the  formidable  army 
marshalled  in  array  against  them. 

Before  3  o'clock  the  British  formed,  in  two  columns,  for  the  attack  ;  one  column, 
as  had  been  anticipated,  moved  along  the  Mystic  River,  with  the  intention  of 
taking  the  redoubt  in  the  rear,  while  the  other  advanced  up  the  ascent  directly  in 
front  of  the  redoubt,  where  Prescott  was  ready  to  receive  them.  General  War- 
ren, President  of  the  Provincial  Congress  and  of  the  Committee  of  Safety,  who 
had  been  appointed  but  a  few  days  before  a  major-general  of  the  Massachusetts 
troops,  had  volunteered  on  the  occasion  as  a  private  soldier,  and  was  in  the  re- 
doubt with  a  musket,  animating  the  men  by  his  influence  and  example  to  the 
most  daring  determination. 

Orders  were  given  to  the  Americans  to  reserve  their  fire  till  the  enemy  ad- 
vanced sufficiently  near  to  make  their  aim  certain.  Several  volleys  were  fired  by 
the  British  with  but  little  success ;  and  so  long  a  time  had  elapsed,  and  the  British 
allowed  to  advance  so  near  the  Americans  without  their  fire  being  returned^  that 
a  doubt  arose  whether  or  not  the  latter  intended  to  give  battle  ;  but  the  fatal  mo- 
ment soon  arrived :  when  the  British  had  advanced  to  within  about  8  rods,  a 
sheet  of  fire  was  poured  upon  them,  and  continued  a  short  time  with  such  deadly 
effect  that  hundreds  of  the  assailants  lay  weltering  in  their  blood,  and  the  remain- 
der retreated  in  dismay  to  the  point  where  they  had  first  landed. 

From  daylight  to  the  time  of  the  British  advancing  on  the  works,  an  incessant 
fire  had  been  kept  up  on  the  Americans  from  the  ships  and  batteries — this  fire  was 
now  renewed  with  increased  vigor. 

After  a  short  time,  the  British  officers  had  succeeded  in  rallying  their  men,  and 
again  advanced,  in  the  same  order  as  before,  to  the  attack.  Thinking  to  divert 
the  attention  of  the  Americans,  the  town  of  Charlestown,  consisting  of  COO 
wooden  buildings,  was  now  set  on  fire  by  the  British  ;  the  roar  of  the  flames,  the 
crashing  of  falling  timber,  the  awful  appearance  of  desolation  presented,  the 
dreadful  shrieks  of  the  dying  and  \vounded  in  the  last  attack,  added  to  the  know- 
ledge of  the  formidable  force  advancing  against  them,  combined  to  form  a  scene 
apparently  too  much  for  men  bred  in  the  quiet  retirement  of  domestic  life  to  sus- 
tain. But  the  stillness  of  death  reigned  within  the  American  works,  and  nought 
could  be  seen  but  the  deadly  presented  weapon,  ready  to  hurl  fresh  destruction 


MASSACHUSETTS.  251 

on  the  assailants.  The  fire  of  the  Americans  was  again  reserved  till  the  British 
came  still  nearer  than  before,  when  the  same  unerring  aim  was  taken,  and  the 
British  shrunk,  terrified,  from  before  its  fatal  effects,  flying,  completely  routed  a 
second  time,  to  the  banks  of  fhe  river,  and  leaving,  as  before,  the  field  strewed 
with  their  wounded  and  their  dead. 

Again  the  ships  and  batteries  renewed  their  fire,  and  kept  a  continual  shower 
of  balls  on  the  works.  Notwithstanding  every  exertion,  the  British  officers 
found  it  impossible  to  rally  the  men  for  a  third  attack  ;  one-third  of  their  comrades 
had  fallen  ;  and  finally  it  was  not  till  a  reinforcement  of  more  than  1000  fresh 
troops,  with  a  strong  park  of  artillery,  had  joined  them  from  Boston,  that  they 
could  be  induced  to  form  anew. 

In  the  mean  time  every  effort  was  made  on  the  part  of  the  Americans  to  resist 
a  third  attack  ;  General  Putnam  rode,  notwithstanding  the  heavy  fire  of  the  ships 
and  batteries,  several  times  across  the  neck,  to  induce  the  militia  to  advance ; 
but  it  was  only  a  few  of  the  resolute  and  brave  who  would  encounter  the  storm. 
The  British  receiving  reinforcements  from  their  formidable  main  body— the 
town  of  Charlestown  presenting  one  wide  scene  of  destruction — the  probability 
the  Americans  must  shortly  retreat— the  shower  of  balls  pouring  over  the 
nock — presented  obstacles  too  appalling  for  raw  troops  to  sustain,  and  embodied 
too  much  danger  to  allow  them  to  encounter.  Yet,  notwithstanding  all  this,  the 
Americans  on  the  heights  were  elated  with  their  success,  and  waited  with  cool- 
ness and  determination  the  now  formidable  advance  of  the  enemy. 

Once  more  the  British,  aided  by  their  reinforcements,  advanced  to  the  attack, 
but  with  great  skill  and  caution  ;  their  artillery  was  planted  on  the  eastern  de- 
clivity of  the  hill,  between  the  rail  fence  and  the  breastwork,  where  it  was  directed 
along  the  line  of  the  Americans,  stationed  at  the  latter  place,  and  against  the 
gateway  on  the  northeastern  corner  of  the  redoubt ;  at  the  same  time  they  at- 
tacked the  redoubt  on  the  southeastern  and  southwestern  sides,  and  entered  it 
with  fixed  bayonets.  The  slaughter  on  their  advancing  was  great ;  but  the 
Americans,  not  having  bayonets  to  meet  them  on  equal  terms,  and  their  powder 
being  exhausted,  now  slowly  retreated,  opposing  and  extricating  themselves  from 
the  British  with  the  butts  of  their  pieces. 

The  column  that  advanced  against  the  rail  fence  was  received  in  the  most 
dauntless  manner.  The  Americans  fought  with  spirit  and  heroism  that  could  not 
be  surpassed,  and,  had  their  ammunition  held  out,  would  have  secured  to  them- 
selves a  third  time  the  palm  of  victory  ;  as  it  was,  they  effectually  prevented  the 
enemy  from  accomplishing  his  purpose,  which  was  to  turn  their  flank,  and  cut 
the  whole  of  the  Americans  off;  but  having  become  perfectly  exhausted,  this  body 
of  the  Americans  also  slowly  retired,  retreating  in  much  better  order  than  could 
possibly  have  been  expected  from  undisciplined  troops,  and  those  in  the  redoubt 
having  extricated  themselves  from  the  host  of  bayonets  by  which  they  had  been 
surrounded. 

The  British  followed  the  Americans  to  Bunker  Hill,  but  some  frssh  militia  at 
this  moment  coming  up  to  the  aid  of  the  latter,  covered  their  retreat.  The 
Americans  crossed  Charlestown  neck  about  7  o'clock,  having  in  the  last  twenty 
hours  performed  deeds  which  seemed  almost  impossible.  Some  of  them  pro- 
ceeded to  Cambridge,  and  others  posted  themselves  quietly  on  Winter  and  Pros- 
pect hills. 

From  the  most  accurate  statements  that  can  be  found,  it  appears  the  British 
must  have  had  nearly  5000  soldiers  in  the  battle  ;  between  3000  and  4000  having 


252  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

first  landed,  and  the  reinforcement  amounting  to  over  1000.     The  Americans, 
throughout  the  whole  day,  did  not  have  2000  men  on  the  field. 

The  slaughter  on  the  side  of  the  British  was  immense,  having  had  nearly  1500 
killed  and  wounded,  1200  of  whom  were  either  killed  or  mortally  wounded  ;  the 
Americans  about  400. 

Had  the  commanders  at  Charlestowu  Heights  become  terrified  on  being  cut  off 
from  the  main  body  and  supplies,  and  surrendered  their  army,  or  even  retreated 
before  they  did,  from  the  terrific  force  that  opposed  them,  where  would  now  have 
•been  that  ornament  and  example  to  the  world,  the  Independence  of  the  United 
States  ?  When  it  was  found  that  no  reinforcements  were  to  be  allowed  them,  the 
most  sanguine  man  on  that  field  could  not  have  even  indulged  a  hope  of  success, 
but  all  determined  to  deserve  it ;  and  although  they  did  not  obtain  a  victory,  their 
example  was  the  cause  of  a  great  many.  The  first  attempt  on  the  commence- 
ment of  a  war  is  held  up,  by  one  party  or  the  other,  as  an  example  to  those  that 
succeed  it,  and  a  victory  or  defeat,  though  not,  perhaps,  of  any  great  magnitude 
in  itself,  is  most,  powerful  and  important  in  its  effects.  Had  such  conduct  as  was 
here  exhibited  been  in  any  degree  imitated  by  the  immediate  commander  in' the 
first  military  onset  in  the  last  war,  how  truly  different  a  result  would  have  been 
effected,  from  the  fatal  one  that  terminated  that  unfortunate  expedition. 

From  the  immense  superiority  of  the  British,  at  this  stage  of  the  war,  having 
a  large  army  of  highly  disciplined  and  well  equipped  troops,  and  the  Americans 
possessing  but  few  other  munitions  or  weapons  of  war,  and  but  little  more  disci- 
pline, than  what  each  man  possessed  when  he  threw7  aside  his  plough  and  took 
the  gun  that  he  had  kept  for  pastime  or  for  profit,  but  now  to  be  employed  for  a 
different  purpose,  from  off  the  hooks  that  held  it, — perhaps  it  would  have  been  in 
their  power,  by  pursuing  the  Americans  to  Cambridge,  and  destroying  the  few 
stores  that  had  been  collected  there,  to  inflict  a  blow  which  could  never  have 
been  recovered  from  ;  but  they  were  completely  terrified.  The  awful  lesson  they 
had  just  received  filled  them  with  horror  ;  and  the  blood  of  1500  of  their  compan- 
ions, who  fell  on  that  day,  presented  to  them  a  warning  w7hich  they  could  never 
forget.  From  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  sprung  the  protection  and  the  vigor  that 
nurtured  the  tree  of  liberty,  and  to  it,  in  all  probability,  may  be  ascribed  our  in- 
dependence and  glory. 

The  name  of  the  first  martyr  that  gave  his  life  for  the  good  of  his  country  on 
that  day,  in  the  importance  of  the  moment,  was  lost ;  else  a  monument,  in  con- 
nection with. the  gallant  Warren,  should  be  raised  to  his  memory.  The  manner 
of  his  death  was  thus  related  by  Colonel  Prescott : 

"The  first  man  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  was  killed  by  a  cannon 
ball  which  struck  his  head.  He  was  so  near  me  that  my  clothes  were  besmeared 
with  his  blood  and  brains,  which  I  wiped  off,  in  some  degree,  with  a  handful  of 
fresh  earth.  The  sight  was  so  shocking  to  many  of  the  men,  that  they  left  their 
posts  and  ran  to  view  him.  I  ordered  them  back,  but  in  vain.  I  then  ordered 
him  to  be  buried  instantly.  A  subaltern  officer  expressed  surprise  that  I  should 
allow  him  to  be  buried  without  having  prayers  said ;  I  replied,  this  is  the  fim 
man  that  has  been  killed,  and  the  only  one  that  will  be  buried  to-day.  I  put  him 
out  of  sight  that  the  men  may  be  kept  in  their  places.  God  only  knows  who,  or 
how  many  of  us,  will  fall  before  it  is  over.  To  your  post,  my  good  fellow,  and 
let  each  man  do  his  duty." 

The  name  of  the  patriot  who  thus  fell  is  supposed  to  have  been  POLLARD,  a 
young  man  belonging  to  Billerica.  He  was  struck  by  a  cannon  ball,  thrown 
from  the  iine-of-battle  ship  Somerset. 


M  ASSAC IITJSETTS.  253 

CAMBRIDGE, 

In  Middlesex  county,  lies  west-northwest  of  Boston,  and  is  connected 
with  it  by  two  bridges.  It  is  a  beautiful  city.  The  streets  are  broad, 
and  are  shaded  with  lofty  elms,  and  the  houses  are  mostly  of  wood, 
and  stand  back  amidst  a  profusion  of  tasteful  shrubbery.  The  cor- 
porate limits  contain  24  churches,  several  banks,  and  an  excellent 
hotel.  There  are  a  number  of  manufacturing  establishments  in  the 
city,  but  it  is  principally  occupied  with  private  residences.  The  popu- 
lation is  39,634. 

Cambridge  is  the  seat  of  Harvard  University,  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  important  institutions  of  learning  in  the  country.  It  is  about 
three  miles  from  Boston,  and  was  founde'd  in  1638,  by  the  Rev.  John 
Harvard.  The  University  embraces,  besides  its  collegiate  depart- 
ment, schools  of  law,  medicine,  and  theology.  The  buildings  are  15 
in  number,  and  are  all  located  in  Cambridge,  except  the  Medical 
School,  which  is  in  Boston.  They  are  very  handsome  edifices,  and 
are  surrounded  by  tasteful  grounds. 

LOWELL, 

In  Middlesex  county,  is  the  second  city  in  the  State,  and  one  of  tho 
most  important  manufacturing  places  in  America.  It  is  situated  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Merrimac  and  Concord  rivers,  about  8  miles 
south  of  the  New  Hampshire  line,  and  25  miles  northwest  of  Boston. 
The  site  is  hilly,  but  the  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  streets  arc 
broad,  are  lighted  with  gas,  and  are  traversed  by  a  horse  railway. 
Some  of  the  buildings  are  handsome.  The  Court  House  is  the  princi- 
pal edifice.  The  city  contains  7  banks,  4  savings  institutions,  22 
churches,  and  5  newspaper  establishments.  The  population  is  40,928. 
As  a  manufacturing  city,  Lowell  has  no  rival.  Early  in  the  present 
century  some  Newburyport  merchants  built  a  canal  at  this  place  as  a 
means  of  floating  lumber  around  Pawtucket  Falls  in  the  Merrimac 
River.  In  1821,  a  party  of  Boston  merchants  bought  up  this  canal 
and  the  adjoining  lands,  for  the  purpose  of  utilizing  the  immense 
water-power  furnished  by  the  falls.  They  enlarged  the  canal  to  a 
width  of  60  feet  and  a  depth  of  8  feet,  and  constructed  mill  races  and 
feeders.  They  then  laid  out  the  town,  and  offered  mill  sites  and  town 
lots  for  sale.  Their  venture  met  with  such  success,  that  in  1846  it  be- 
came necessary  to  construct  an  additional  canal,  100  feet  wide,  16  feet 
deep,  and  with  sides  of  mason  work. 


254  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

To-day,  the  town  projected  by  them  has  no  superior  in  its  speciality. 
In  1864,  there  were  13  manufacturing  corporations  in  Lowell,  with 
an  aggregate  capital  of  $13,850,000,  engaged  in  operating  54  mills  and 
factories.  Previous  to  the  war  there  were  1 2,384  operatives  employed 
in  these  mills,  divided  as  follows :  males  3979,  females  8405.  Cotton 
and  woollen  goods,  paper,  cotton  and  paper  machinery,  locomotives, 
and  machinists7  tools  are  the  principal  products. 

In  1862,  the  celebrated  English  writer,  Anthony  Trollope,  visited 
Lowell  and  its  mills.  He  gives  the  following  as  the  result  of  his 
observations : 

That  which  most  surprises  an  English  visitor,  on  going  through  the  mills  at 
Lowell,  is  the  personal  appearance  of  the  men  and  women  who  work  at  them. 
As  there  are  twice  as  many  women  as  there  are  men,  it  is  to  them  that  the  atten- 
tion is  chiefly  .called.  They  are  not  only  better  dressed,  cleaner,  and  better 
mounted  in  every  respect  than  the  girls  employed  at  manufactories  in  England, 
but  they  are  so  infinitely  superior  as  to  make  a  stranger  immediately  perceive 
that  some  very  strong  cause  must  have  created  the  difference.  We  all  know  the 
class  of  young  women  whom  we  generally  see  serving  behind  counters  in  the 
shops  of  our  larger  cities.  They  are  neat,  well  dressed,  careful,  especially  about 
their  hair,  composed  in  their  manner,  and  sometimes  a  little  supercilious  in  the 
propriety  of  their  demeanor.  It  is  exactly  the  same  class  of  young  women  that 
one  sees  in  the  factories  at  Lowell.  They  are  not  sallow,  nor  dirty,  nor  ragged, 
nor  rough.  They  have  about  them  no  signs  of  want,  or  of  low  culture.  Many 
of  us  also  know  the  appearance  of  those  girls  who  work  in  the  factories  in  Eng- 
land ;  and  I  think  it  will  be  allowed  that  a  second  glance  at  them  is  not  wanting 
to  show  that  they  are  in  every  respect  inferior  to  the  young  women  who  attend 
our  shops.  The  matter,  indeed,  requires  no  argument.  Any  young  woman  at 
a  shop  would  be  insulted  by  being  asked  whether  she  had  worked  at  a  factory. 
The  difference  with  regard  to  the  men  at  Lowell  is  quite  as  strong,  though  not  so 
striking.  Workingmen  do  not  show  their  status  in  the  world  by  their  outward 
appearance  as  readily  as  women  ;  and,  as  I  have  said  before,  the  number  of  the 
women  greatly  exceeded  that  of  the  men. 

One  would  of  course  be  disposed  to  say  that  the  superior  condition  of  the 
workers  must  have  been  occasioned  by  superior  wages ;  and  this,  to  a  certain 
extent,  has  been  the  cause.  But  the  higher  payment  is  not  the  chief  cause. 
Women's  wages,  including  all  that  they  receive  at  the  Lowell  factories,  average 
about  14s.  a  week,  which  is,  I  take  it,  fully  a  third  more  than  women  can  earn  in 
Manchester,  or  did  earn  before  the  loss  of  the  American  cotton  began  to  tell  upon 
them.  But  if  wages  at  Manchester  were  raised  to  the  Lowell  standard,  the  Man- 
chester women  would  not  be  clothed,  fed,  cared  for,  and  educated  like  the  Lowell 
women.  The  fact  is,  that  the  workmen  and  the  workwomen  at  Lowell  are  not 
exposed  to  the  chances  of  an  open  labor  market.  They  are  taken  in,  as  it  were, 
to  a  philanthropical  manufacturing  college,  and  then  looked  after  and  regulated 
more  as  girls  and  lads  at  a  great  seminary,  than  as  hands  by  whose  industry  profit 
is  to  be  made  out  of  capital.  This  is  all  very  nice  and  pretty  at  Lowell,  but  I  am 
afraid  it  could  not  be  done  at  Manchester. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  255 

Thus  Lowell  is  the  realization  of  a  commercial  Utopia.  Of  all  the  statements 
made  in  the  little  book  which  I  have  quoted,  I  cannot  point  out  one  which  is  ex- 
aggerated, much  less  false.  I  should  not  call  the  place  elegant ;  in  other  respects 
I  am  disposed  to  stand  by  the  book.  Before  I  had  made  any  inquiry  into  the 
cause  of  the  apparent  comfort,  it  struck  me  at  once  that  some  great  effort  at  ex- 
cellence was  being  made.  I  went  into  one  of  the  discreet  matrons'  residences ; 
and,  perhaps,  may  give  but  an  indifferent  idea  of  her  discretion,  when  I  say  that 
she  allowed  me  to  go  into  the  bed-rooms.  If  you  want  to  ascertain  the  inner 
ways  or  habits  of  life  of  any  man,  woman,  or  child,  see,  if  it  be  practicable  to  do 
so,  his  or  her  bed-room.  You  will  learn  more  by  a  minute's  glance  round  that 
holy  of  holies,  than  by  any  conversation.  Looking-glasses  and  such  like,  sus- 
pended dresses,  and  toilet-belongings,  if  taken  without  notice,  cannot  lie  or  even 
exaggerate.  The  discreet  matron  at  first  showed  me  rooms  only  prepared  for 
use,  for  at  the  period  of  my  visit  Lowell  was  by  no  means  full ;  but  she  soon 
became  more  intimate  with  me,  and  I  went  through  the  upper  part  of  the  house. 
My  report  must  be  altogether  in  her  favor  and  in  that  of  Lowell.  Everything 
was  cleanly,  well  ordered,  and  feminine.  There  was  not  a  bed  on  which  any 
woman  need  have  hesitated  to  lay  herself  if  occasion  required  it.  I  fear  that  this 
cannot  be  said  of  the  lodgings  of  the  manufacturing  classes  at  Manchester.  The 
boarders  all  take  their  meals  together.  As  a  rule,  they  have  meat  twice  a  day. 
Hot  meat  for  dinner  is  with  them  as  much  a  matter  of  course,  or  probably  more 
so,  than  with  any  Englishman  or  woman  who  may  read  this  book.  For  in  the 
States  of  America  regulations  on  this  matter  are  much  more  rigid  than  with  us. 
Cold  meat  is  rarely  seen,  and  to  live  a  day  without  meat  would  be  as  great  a  pri- 
vation as  to  pass  a  night  without  bed. 

The  rules  for  the  guidance  of  these  boarding-houses  are  very  rigid.  The  houses 
themselves  belong  to  the  corporations,  or  different  manufacturing  establishments, 
and  the  tenants  are  altogether  in  the  power  of  the  managers.  None  but  opera- 
tives are  to  be  taken  in.  The  tenants  are  answerable  for  improper  conduct.  The 
doors  are  to  be  closed  at  ten  o'clock.  Any  boarders  who  do  not  attend  divine 
worship  are  to  be  reported  to  the  managers.  The  yards  and  walks  are  to  be  kept 
clean,  and  snow  removed  at  once  ;  and  the  inmates  must  be  vaccinated,  etc.,  etc. 
It  is  expressly  stated  by  the  Hamilton  Company — and  I  believe  by  all  the  com- 
panies— that  no  one  shall  be  employed  who  is  habitually  absent  from  public 
worship  on  Sunday,  or  who  is  known  to  be  guilty  of  immorality.  It  is  stated 
that  the  average  wages  of  the  women  are  two  dollars,  or  eight  shillings,  a  week, 
besides  their  board.  1  found  when  I  was  there  that  from  three  dollars  to  three 
and  a  half  a  week  were  paid  to  the  women,  of  which  they  paid  one  dollar  and 
twenty-five  cents  for  their  board.  As  this  would  not  fully  cover  the  expense  of 
their  keep,  twenty-five  cents  a  week  for  each  was  also  paid  to  the  boarding- 
house  keepers  by  the  mill  agents.  This  substantially  came  to  the  same  thing,  as 
it  left  the  two  dollars  a  week,  or  eight  shillings,  with  the  girls  over  and  above 
their  cost  of  living.  The  board  included  washing,  lights,  food,  bed,  and  attend- 
ance— leaving  a  surplus  of  eight  shillings  a  week  for  clothes  and  saving.  Now 
let  me  ask  any  one  acquainted  with  Manchester  and  its  operatives,  whether  that 
is  not  Utopia  realized.  Factory  girls,  for  whom  every  comfort  of  life  is  secured, 
with  211.  a  year  over  for  saving  and  dress  !  ,  One  sees  the  failing,  however,  at  a 
moment.  It  is  Utopia.  Any  Lady  Bountiful  can  tutor  three  or  four  peasants 
and  make  them  luxuriously  comfortable.  But  no  Lady  Bountiful  can  give  luxu- 
rious comfort  to  half  a  dozen  parishes.  Lowell  is  now  nearly  40  years  old,  and 


256  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

contains  but  40,000  inhabitants.  From  the  very  nature  of  its  corporations  it  can- 
not spread  itself.  Chicago,  which  has  grown  out  of  nothing  in  a  much  shorter 
period,  and  which  has  no  factories,  has  now  120,000  inhabitants.  Lowell  is  a 
very  wonderful  place  and  shows  what  philanthropy  can  do  ;  but  I  fear  it  also 
shows  what  philanthropy  cannot  do.  .  .  .  ..... 

One  cannot  but  be  greatly  struck  by  the  spirit  of  philanthropy  in  which  the 
system  of  Lowell  was  at  first  instituted.  It  may  be  presumed  that  men  who  put 
their  money  into  such  an  undertaking  did  so  with  the  object  of  commercial  profit 
to  themselves  ;  but  in  this  case  that  was  not  their  first  object.  I  think  it  may  be 
taken  for  granted  that  when  Messrs.  Jackson  and  Lowell  went  about  their  task, 
their  grand  idea  was  to  place  factory  work  upon  a  respectable  footing- to  give 
employment  in  mills  which  should  not  be  unhealthy,  degrading,  demoralizing, 
or  hard  in  its  circumstances.  Throughout  the  Northern  States  of  America  the 
same  feeling  is  to  be  seen.  Good  and  thoughtful  men  have  been  active  to  spread 
education,  to  maintain  health,  to  make  work  compatible  with  comfort  and  per- 
sonal dignity,  and  to  divest  the  ordinary  lot  of  man  of  the  sting  of  that  curse 
which  was  supposed  to  be  uttered  when  our  first  father  was  ordered  to  eat  his 
bread  in  the  sweat  of  his  brow.  One  is  driven  to  contrast  this  feeling,  of  which 
on  all  sides  one  sees  such  ample  testimony,  with  that  sharp  desire  for  profit,  that 
anxiety  to  do  a  stroke  of  trade  at  every  turn,  that  acknowledged  necessity  of 
being  smart,  which  AVC  must  own  is  quite  as  general  as  the  nobler  propensity.  I 
believe  that  both  phases  of  commercial  activity  may  be  attributed  to  the  same 
characteristic.  Men  in  trade  in  America  are  not  more  covetous  than  tradesmen 
in  England,  nor  probably  are  they  more  generous  or  philanthropical.  But  that 
which  they  do,  they  are  more  anxious  to  do  thoroughly  and  quickly.  They  desire 
that  every  turn  taken  shall  be  a  great  turn — or  at  any  rate  that  it  shall  be  as  great 
as  possible.  They  go  ahead  either  for  bad  or  good  with  all  the  energy  they  have. 
In  the  institutions  at  Lowell  I  think  we  may  allow  that  the  good  has  very  much 
prevailed. 

I  went  over  two  of  the  mills,  those  of  the  Merrimac  corporation  and  of  the 
Massachusetts.  At  the  former  the  printing  establishment  only  was  at  work  ;  the 
cotton  mills  were  closed.  I  hardly  know  whether  it  will  interest  any  one  to 
learn  that  something  under  half  a  million  yards  of  calico  are  here  printed  annu- 
ally. At  the  Lowell  Bleachery  fifteen  million  yards  arc  dyed  annually.  The 
Merrimac  Cotton  Mills  were  stopped,  and  so  had  the  other  mills  at  Lowell  been 
stopped,  till  some  short  time  before  my  visit.  Trade  had  been  bad,  and  there 
had  of  course  been  a  lack  of  cotton.  I  was  assured  that  no  severe  suffering  had 
been  created  by  this  stoppage.  The  greater  number  of  hands  had  returned  into 
the  country — to  the  farms  from  whence  they  had  come  ;  and  though  a  discontinu- 
ance of  work  and  wages  had  of  course  produced  hardship,  there  had  been  no 
actual  privation — no  hunger  and  want.  Those  of  the  work-people  who  had  no 
homes  out  of  Lowell  to  which  to  betake  themselves,  and  no  means  at  Lowell  of 
living,  had  received  relief  before  real  suffering  had  begun.  I  was  assured,  with 
something  of  a  smile  of  contempt  at  the  question,  that  there  had  been  nothing 
like  hunger.  But,  as  I  said  before,  visitors  always  see  a  great  deal  of  rose  color, 
and  should  endeavor  to  allay  the  brilliancy  of  the  tint  with  the  proper  amount  of 
human  shading.  But  do  not  let  any  visitor  mix  in  the  browns  with  too  heavy  a 
hand  t 


MASSACHUSETTS.  257 

LYNN, 

In  Essex  county,  11  miles  north  of  Boston,  is  charmingly  situated  on 
the  northeast  shore  of  Massachusetts  Bay.  It  is  regularly  laid  off, 
but  does  not  compare  with  the  generality  of  New  England  cities  in 
appearance.  It  contains  about  50  public  schools,  2  newspaper  offices, 
21  churches,  several  banks,  and  a  free  library.  The  population  is 
about  28,233. 

Lynn  is  the  principal  seat  of  the  manufacture  of  boots  and  shoes  in 
this  country.  It  contains  175  establishments,  em  ploying  17,200  per- 
sons, more  than  one-half  being  females.  About  10,000,000  pairs  of 
ladies  and  misses'  shoes  are  made  here  annually.  They  are  valued  at 
about  $14,000,000.  Besides  these,  a  number  of  other  manufactures 
are  prod  teed  here. 

LAWRENCE, 

In  Essex  county,  26  miles  north  of  Boston,  and  12  miles  from  Lowell, 
is  an  important  manufacturing  city.  It  is  built  along  both  sides  of 
the  Merrimac  River,  which  is  made  to  fall  over  an  artificial  dam  28 
feet  high.  The  water  is  conducted  from  the  head  of  this  dam  to  the 
mills  by  a  canal.  The  city  is  well  laid  off,  and  contains  several  fine 
buildings,  the  City  Hall  being  the  handsomest.  The  centre  is  occu- 
pied by  a  "  Common  "  covering  an  area  of  17J  acres.  There  are  13 
churches,  a  number  of  excellent  free  schools,  2  newspaper  offices, 
several  libraries,  and  2  banks  in  Lawrence.  The  population  is 
28,921. 

The  city  contains  over  30  manufacturing  establishments,  with  a 
capital  of  about  $8,000,000.  Cottons,  woollens,  machinery,  wrought- 
iron  goods,  and  paper,  are  the  leading  manufactures. 

Lawrence  is  lighted  with  gas*,  and  is  supplied  with  water  which  may 
be  used  in  case  of  fire ;  but  for  ordinary  purposes,  cisterns  and  wells 
are  used. 

WORCESTER, 

In  Worcester  county,  45  miles  west-southwest  of  Boston,  is  the  third 
city  in  the  State.  Six  railway  lines  centre  here,  making  it  within 
easy  reach  of  all  parts  of  the  Union.  It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
beautiful  country,  and  is  regularly  laid  out  and  handsomely  built. 
The  streets  are  broad,  are  planted  with  trees,  and  adorned  with  a 

number  of  handsome  edifices.     Main  street,  .the  principal  thorough- 
17 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


A   VIEW    FROM    GREENFIELD,    MASS 

fare,  is  nearly  2  miles  long,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  streets  in  the 
State.  It  contains  the  principal  stores;  hotels,  churches,  and  public 
buildings.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  traversed  by  a  street 
railway.  It  contains  18  churches,  7  banks,  4  savings  banks,  4  news- 
paper offices,  several  libraries  containing  an  aggregate  of  60,000  vol- 
umes, and  a  number  of  private  and  public  schools.  The  State  has  a 
Lunatic  Asylum  here,  which  is  provided  with  handsome  buildings 
and  grounds. 

Worcester  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures.  The  leading 
articles  are  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  steel  and  iron  wire,  mechanics' 
tools,  agricultural  implements,  machinery  of  all  kinds,  railroad  iron, 
castings,  fire-arms,  and  boots  and  shoes.  The  population  is  41,105. 


MASSACHUSETTS.  259 

SPRINGFIELD, 

In  Hampden  county,  on  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut  River,  98  miles 
southwest  of  Boston,  and  26  miles  north  of  Hartford,  Conn.,  is  the 
largest  city  in  Western  Massachusetts.  It  is  handsomely  built,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  attractive  cities  in  New  England.  The  principal 
thoroughfare,  Main  street,  is  nearly  3  miles  long.  The  city  contains 
many  fine  buildings,  12  or  13  churches,  8  or  9  banks,  several  good 
hotels,  and  5  newspaper  establishments.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and 
supplied  with  water.  The  Connecticut  is  navigable  to  this  place 
during  the  season  of  navigation.  Four  lines  of  railway  centre  here, 
and  have  added  very  much  to  the  prosperity  of  the  city. 

The  United  States  Arsenal  is  one  of  the  principal  features  of  the 
place,  and  the  most  important  establishment  belonging  to  the  Govern- 
ment. About  2800  hands  are  employed  in  the  various  departments 
of  the  Arsenal.  The  buildings  are  principally  of  brick,  and  are  ar- 
ranged around  a  square  of  20  acres.  They  are  very  handsome,  and 
being  situated  on  rising  ground,  command  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and 
surrounding  country. 

Springfield  is  actively  engaged  in  manufactures.  Paper,  iron  goods, 
locomotives,  railroad  cars,  machinery,  pistols,  and  woollen  goods,  are 
the  principal  articles.  The  population  is  26,703. 

Taunton,  in  Bristol  county,  contains  18,629  inhabitants.  Fall  River, 
in  the  same  county,  contains  26,786  inhabitants.  Both  are  important 
manufacturing  cities.  Salem,  in  Essex  county,  has  a  fine  harbor,  and 
is  a  city  of  some  commercial  importance.  It  has  a  population  of 
24,117,  and  is  noted  as  the  scene  of  the  famous  witchcraft  delusion. 
Plymouth,  in  the  county  of  the  same  name,  is  extensively  engaged  in 
manufactures  and  the  fisheries.  It  is  the  oldest  town  in  New  England, 
and  is  the  place  where  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  first  landed  after  their 
voyage  from  England. 

MISCELLANIES. 

ARRIVAL  OF  THE  PILGRIMS  AT  CAPE  COD. 

On  the  10th  of  November,  1620,  the  Mayflower,  with  her  precious  freight  of 
emigrants,  reached  the  harbor  of  Cape  Cod.  The  charter  which  they  had 
brought  with  them  from  England,  gave  them  permission  to  settle  within  the  do- 
minions of  the  South  Virginia  Company,  and  was  worthless  in  the  region  in  which 
they  had  arrived.  In  this  situation  they  determined  to  take  the  matter  into  their 
own  hands.  A  government  was  organized,  a  covenant  drawn  up  and -signed  by 
all  on  board,  and  John  Carver  was  elected  Governor. 


260  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Government  having  been  thus  regularly  established,  on  a  truly  republican, 
principle,  sixteen  armed  men  were  sent  on  shore,  as  soon  as  the  weather  would 
permit,  to  fetch  wood  and  make  discoveries.  They  returned  at  night  with  a  boat 
load  of  juniper  wood,  and  made  report  "  that  they  found  the  land  to  be  a  narrow 
neck,  having  the  harbor  on  one  side,  and  the  ocean  on  the  other  ;  that  the  ground 
consisted  of  sandhills,  like  the  Downs  in  Holland ;  that  in  some  places  the  soil 
was  black  earth  '  a  spit's  depth  ;'  that  the  trees  were  oak,  pine,  sassafras,  juniper, 
birch,  holly,  ash,  and  walnut ;  that  Jhe  forest  was  open  and  without  underwood  ; 
that  no  inhabitants,  houses,  nor  fresh  water  were  to  be  seen."  This  account  was 
as  much  as  could  be  collected  in  one  Saturday's  afternoon.  The  next  day  they 
rested. 

While  they  lay  in  this  harbor,  during  the  space  of  five  weeks,  they  saw  great 
flocks  of  seafowl  and  whales  every  day  playing  about  them.  The  master  and 
mate,  who  had  been  acquainted  with  the  fisheries  in  the  northern  seas  of  Europe, 
supposed  that  they  might  in  that  time  have  made  oil  to  the  value  of  £3000  or  £4000. 
It  was  too  late  in  the  season  for  cod  ;  and,  indeed,  they  caught  none  but  small  fish 
near  the  shore,  and  shellfish.  The  margin  of  the  sea  was  so  shallow,  that  they 
were  obliged  to  wade  ashore,  and  the  weather  being  severe,  many  of  them  took 
colds  and  coughs,  which  in  the  course  of  the  winter  proved  mortal. 

On  Monday,  the  13th  of  November,  the  women  went  ashore  under  guard  to 
wash  their  clothes,  and  the  men  were  impatient  for  a  farther  discovery.  The 
shallop,  which  had  been  cut  down  and  stowed  between  decks,  needed  repairing, 
in  which  17  clays  were  employed.  While  this  was  doing,  they  proposed  that  ex- 
cursions might  be  made  on  foot.  Much  caution  was  necessary  in  an  enterprise 
of  this  kind,  in  a  new  and  savage  country.  After  consultation  and  preparation. 
1C  men  were  equipped  with  musket  and  ammunition,  sword  and  corslet,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Miles  Standish,  who  had  William  Bradford,  Stephen  Hop- 
kins, and  Edward  Tilly  for  his  council  of  war.  After  many  instructions  given, 
they  were  rather  permitted  than  ordered  to  go,  and  the  time  of  their  absence  was 
limited  to  two  days.  i 

When  they  had  travelled  one  mile  by  the  shore,  they  discovered  five  or  six  of 
the  natives,  who,  on  sight  of  them,  fled.  They  attempted  to  pursue,  and,  lighting 
on  their  tracks,  followed  them  till  night ;  but  the  thickets  through  which  they 
had  to  pass,  the  weight  of  their  armor,  and  the  debility  after  a  long  voyage,  made 
them  an  unequal  match,  in  point  of  travelling,  to  these  nimble  sons  of  nature. 
They  rested  at  length  by  a  spring,  which  afforded  them  the  first  refreshing  draught 
of  American  water. 

The  discoveries  made  in  this  march  were  few,  but  novel  and  amusing.  In  one 
place  they  found  a  deer  trap,  made  by  the  bending  of  a  young  tree  to  the  earth, 
with  a  noose  underground  covered  with  acorns.  Mr.  Bradford's  foot  was  caught 
in  the  trap,  from  which  his  companions  disengaged  him,  and  they  were  all  enter- 
tained with  the  ingenuity  of  the  device.  In  another  place  they  came  to  an  In- 
dian burying-ground,  and  in  one  of  the  graves  they  found  a  mortar,  an  earthen  pot, 
a  bow  and  arrows,  and  other  implements,  all  which  they  very  carefully  replaced, 
because  they  would  not  be  guilty  of  violating  the  repositories  of  the  dead.  But 
when  they  found  a  cellar,  carefully  lined  with  bark  and  covered  with  a  heap  of 
s«uid,  in  which  about  four  bushels  of  seed-corn  in  ears  were  well  secured,  after 
reasoning  on  the  morality  of  the  action,  they  took  as  much  of  the  corn  as  they 
could  carry,  intending,  when  they  should  find  the  owners,  to  pay  them  to  their 
satisfaction.  On  the  third  day  they  arrived,  weaay  and  welcome,  where  the  ship 


MASSACHUSETTS.  261 

lay,  and  delivered  their  corn  into  the  common  store.  The  company  resolved 'to 
keep  it  for  seed,  and  to  pay  the  natives  the  full  value  when  they  should  have  an 
opportunity. 

When  the  shallop  was  repaired  and  rigged,  24  of  the  company  ventured  on  a 
second  excursion  to  the  same  place,  to  make  a  farther  discovery,  having  Captain 
Jones'for  their  commander,  with  10  of  his  seamen  and  the  ship's  long-boat.  The 
wind  being  high  and  the  sea  rough,  the  shallop  came  to  anchor  under  the  land, 
while  part  of  the  company  waded  on  shore  from  the  long-boat,  and  travelled,  as 
they  supposed,  six  or  seven  miles,  having  directed  the  shallop  to  follow  them 
the  next  morning.  The  weather  was  very  cold,  with  snow,  and  the  people,  hav- 
ing no  shelter,  took  such  colds  as  afterwards  proved  fatal  to  many. 


THE  FIRST  SABBATH  IN  NEW  ENGLAND, 

The  10th  of  December,  1020,  was  the  first  Christian  Sabbath  in  New  England. 
The  "Mayflower,"  a  name  now  immortal,  had  crossed  the  ocean.  It  had  borne 
its  hundred  passengers  over  the  vast  deep,  and  after  a  perilous  voyage,  it  had 
reached  the  bleak  shores  of  New  England  in  the  beginning  of  winter.  The  spot 
which  was  to  furnish  a  home  and  a  burial-place,  was  now  to  be  selected.  The 
shallop  was  unshipped,  but  needed  repairs,  and  10  weary  days  elapsed  before  it 
was  ready  for  service.  Amidst  ice  and  snow,  it  was  then  sent  out,  with  some 
half  a  dozen  Pilgrims,  to  find  a  suitable  place  where  to  land.  The  spray  of  the 
sea,  says  the  historian,  froze  on  them,  and  made  their  clothes  like  coats  of  iron. 
Five  days  they  wandered  about,  searching  in  vain  for  a  suitable  landing-place. 
A  storm  came  on,  the  snow  and  rain  fell ;  the  sea  swelled;  the  rudder  broke; 
the  mast  and  the  sail  fell  overboard.  In  this  storm  and  cold,  -without  a  tent,  a 
house,  or  the  shelter  of  a  rock,  the  Christian  Sabbath  approached — the  day  which 
they  regarded  as  holy  unto  God — a  day  on  which  they  were  not  to  *'  do  any  work. " 
What  should  be  done  ?  As  the  evening  before  the  Sabbath  drew  on,  they  pushed 
over  the  surf,  entered  a  fair  sound,  sheltered  themselves  under  the  lee  of  a  rise 
of  land,  kindled  a  fire,  and  on  that  island  they  spent  the  day  in  the  solemn  wor- 
ship of  their  Maker.  On  the  next  day  their  feet  touched  the  rock  now  sacred  as 
the  place  of  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims.  Nothing  more  strikingly  marks  the 
character  of  this  people,  than  this  act.  The  whole  scene — the  cold  winter — the 
raging  sea — the  driving  storm — the  houseless,  homeless  island — the  families  of 
wives  and  children  in  the  distance,  weary  with  their  voyage  and  impatient  to 
land — and  yet,  the  sacred  observance  of  a  day  which  they  kept  from  principle, 
and  not  from  mere  feeling,  or  because  it  was  a  form  of  religion,  shows  how 
deeply  imbedded  true  religion  is  in  the  soul,  and  how  little  it  is  affected  by  sur- 
rounding difficulties. 

THE  FIRST  CRIMES  IN  NEW  ENGLAND. 

The  first  offence  punished  in  the  colony  was  that  of  John  Billington,  who  was 
charged  with  contempt  of  the  captain's  lawful  commands,  while  on  board  the  May- 
flower. He  was  tried  by  the  whole  company,  and  was  sentenced  to  have  his  neck 
and  heels  tied  together ;  but  on  humbling  himself,  and  craving  pardon,  he  was 
released.  This  same  Billington,  however,  in  1030,  waylaid  and  murdered  one 
John  Ncwcomen,  for  some  affront,  and  was  tried  and  executed  in  October  of  that 
year.  Governor  Bradford  says :  "  We  took  all  due  means  about  his  trial ;  he  was 


262  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

found  guilty,  both  by  grand  and  petit  jury;  and  we  took  advice  of  Mr.  Win- 
throp  and  others,  the  ablest  gentlemen  in  the  Massachusetts  Bay,  who  all  con- 
curred with  us,  that  he  ought  to  die,  and  the  land  be  purged  from  blood." 

The  first  duel  and  second  offence  that  took  place  in  the  colony  was  between 
two  servants  of  Stephen  Hopkins.  They  fought  with  sword  and  dagger,  and 
were  both  slightly  wounded.  They  were  arraigned  for  the  offence,  on  the  18th 
June,  1621,  before  the  Governor  and  company  for  trial,  and  were  sentenced  to 
have  their  heads  and  feet  tied  together,  and  to  remain  in  that  position  for  24  hours. 
After  an  hour's  endurance  of  this  novel  punishment,  these  men  of  valor  begged 
for  a  release,  and  the  Governor  set  them  at  liberty. 


THE   SALEM   WITCHCRAFT. 

[From  Governor  Hutcliinson"*  s  History  of  Massachusetts.] 

The  great  noise  which  the  New  England  witchcrafts  made  throughout  the 
English  dominions,  proceeded  more  from  the  general  panic  with  which  all  sorts 
of  persons  were  seized,  and  an  expectation  that  the  contagion  would  spread  to  all 
parts  of  the  country,  than  from  the  number  of  persons  who  were  executed,  more 
having  been  put  to  death  in  a  single  county  in  England,  in  a  short  space  of  time, 
than  have  suffered  in  all  New  England  from  the  first  settlement  until  the  present 
time.  Fifteen  years  had  passed,  before  we  find  any  mention  of  witchcraft  among 
the  English  colonists.  The  Indians  were  supposed  to  be  worshippers  of  the  Devil, 
and  their  powows  to  be  wizards.  The  first  suspicion  of  witchcraft,  among  the 
English,  was  about  the  year(f64jj)  ut  Springfield,  upon  Connecticut  River,  sev- 
eral persons  were  supposed  tolie  under  an  evil  hand,  and  among  the  rest  two  of 
the  minister's  children.  Great  pains  were  taken  to  prove  the  facts  upon  several 
persons  charged  with  the  crime,  but  either  the  nature  of  the  evidence  was  not 
satisfactory,  or  the  fraud  was  suspected,  and  so  no  person  was  convicted  until  the 
year  1630,  when  a  poor  wretch,  Mary  Oliver,  probably  weary  of  her  life  from  the 
general  reputation  of  being  a  witch,  after  long  examination  was  brought  to  con- 
fession of  her  guilt,  but  I  do  not  find  that  she  was  executed.  Whilst  this  inquiry 
was  making,  Margaret  Jones  was  executed  at  Charlestown  ;  and  Mr.  Hale  men- 
tions a  woman  at  Dorchester,  and  another  at  Cambridge  about  the  same  time, 
who  all  at*  their  death  asserted  their  innocence.  Soon  after,  Hugh  Parsons  was 
tried  at  Springfield  and  escaped  death.  In  1655,  Mrs.  Hibbins,  the  assistant's 
widow,  was  hanged  at  Boston.  In  1662,  at  Hartford  in  Connecticut  (about  30 
miles  from  Springfield,  upon  the  same  river),  one  Ann  Cole,  a  young  woman  who 
lived  next  door  to  a  Dutch  family,  and,  no  doubt,  had  learned  something  of  the 
language,  was  supposed  to  be  possessed  with  demons,  who  sometimes  spake  Dutch 
and  sometimes  English,  and  sometimes  a  language  which  nobody  understood,  and 
who  held  a  conference  with  one  another.  Several  ministers,  who  were  present, 
took  down  the  conference  in  writing,  and  the  names  of  several  persons,  mentioned 
in  the  course  of  the  conference;  as  actors  or  bearing  parts  in  it ;  particularly  a  wo- 
man, then  in  prison  upon  suspicion  of  witchcraft,  one  Greensmith,  who  upon  ex- 
amination confessed  and  appeared  to  be  surprised  at  the  discovery.  She  owned 
that  she  and  the  others  named  had  been  familiar  with  a  demon,  who  had  carnal 
knowledge  of  her,  and  although  she  had  not  made  a  formal  covenant,  yet  she  had 
promised  to  be  ready  at  his  call,  and  was  to  have  had  a  high  frolic  at  Christmas, 
when  the  agreement  was  to  have  been  signed.  Upon  this  confession  she  was 


MASSACHUSETTS.  263 

executed,  and  two  more  of  the  company  Avere  condemned  at  the  same  time.  In 
1669,  Susanna  Martin,  of  Salisbury,  was  bound  over  to  the  court,  upon  suspicion 
of  witchcraft,  but  escaped  at  that  time. 

In  167J.,  Elizabeth  Knap,  another  ventriloqua,  alarmed  the  people  of  Groton 
in  muehTthe  same  manner  as  Ann  Cole  had  done  those  of  Hartford  ;  but  her  de- 
mon was  not  so  cunning,  for  instead  of  confining  himself  to  old  women,  he  railed 
at  the  good  minister  of  the  town  and  other  persons  of  good  character,  and  the 
people  could  not  then  be  prevailed  on  to  believe  him,  but  believed  the  girl,  when 
she  confessed  she  had  been  deluded,  and  that  the  devil  had  tormented  her  in  the 
shape  of  good  persons  ;  so  she  escaped  the  punishment  due  to  her  fraud  and  im- 
posture. 

In  1673,  Eunice  Cole  of  Hampton  was  tried,  and  the  jury  found  her  not  legally 
guilty,  but  that  there  were  strong  grounds  to  suspect  her  of  familiarity  with  the 
devil. 

In  1079,  William  Morse's  house,  at  Newbury,  was  troubled  with  the  throwing 
of  bricks,  stones,  etc.,  and  a  boy,  of  the  family,  was  supposed  to  be  bewitched, 
who  accused  one  of  the  neighbors  ;  and  in  1682,  the  house  of  George  "Walton,  a 
quaker,  at  Portsmouth,  and  another  house  at  Salmon-falls  (both  in  New  Hamp- 
shire), were  attacked  after  the  same  manner. 

In  1633,  the  demons  removed  to  Connecticut  River  again,  where  one  Desbo-  (^p^ 
rough's  house  was  molested  by  an  invisible  hand,  and  a  fire  kindled,  nobody  knew 
how,  which  burnt  up  great  part  of  his  estate  ;  and  in  1684,  Philip  Smith,  a  judge 
of  the  court,  a  military  officer  and  a  representative  of  the  town  of  Hadley,  upon 
the  same  river  (a  hypochondriac  person),  fancied  himself  under  an  evil  hand, 
and  suspected  a  woman,  one  of  his  neighbors,  and  languished  and  pined  away, 
and  was  generally  supposed  to  be  bewitched  to  death.  While  he  lay  ill,  a  num- 
ber of  brisk  lads  tried  an  experiment  upon  the  old  woman.  Having  dragged  her 
out  of  her  house,  they  hung  her  up  until  she  was  near  dead,  let  her  down,  rolled 
her  some  time  in  the  snow,  and  at  last  buried  her  in  it  and  there  left  her,  but  it 
happened  that  she  survived,  and  the  melancholy  man  died. 

Notwithstanding  these  frequent  instances  of  supposed  witchcrafts,  none  had 
suffered  for  near  30  years,  in  the  Massachusetts  colony.  The  execution  of  the 
assistant  or  councillor's  widow  in  1655,  was  disapproved  of  by  many  principal 
persons,  and  it  is  not  unlikely  that  her  death  saved  the  lives  of  many  other  infe- 
rior persons.  But  in  1685,  a  very  circumstantial  account  of  all  or  most  of  the 
cases  I  have  mentioned,  was  published,  and  many  arguments  were  brought  to 
convince  the  country  that  they  were  no  delusions  or  impostures,  but  the  effects 
of  a  familiarity  between  the  devil  and  such  as  he  found  fit  for  his  instruments  ; 
and  in  1687  or  1688,  began  a  more  alarming  instance  than  any  which  had  pre- 
ceded it.  Four  of  the  children  of  John  Goodwin,  a  grave  man  and  a  good  liver, 
at  the  north  part  of  Boston,  were  generally  believed  to  be  bewitched.  I  have 
often  heard  persons,  who  were  in  the  neighborhood,  speak  of  the  great  conster- 
nation it  occasioned.  The  children  were  all  remarkable  for  ingenuity  of  temper, 
had  been  religiously  educated  and  were  thought  to  be  without  guile.  The  eldest 
was  a  girl  of  13  or  14  years.  She  had  charged  a  laundress  with  taking  away  some 
of  the  family  linen.  The  mother  of  the  laundress  was  one  of  the  wild  Irish,  of 
bad  character,  and  gave  the  girl  harsh  language  ;  soon  after  which"  she  fell  into 
fits,  which  were  said  to  have  something  diabolical  in  them.  One  of  her  sisters 
and  two  brothers  followed  her  example,  and  it  is  said,  were  tormented  in  the 
same  part  of  their  bodies  ut  the  same  time,  although  kept  in  separate  apartments, 


•264  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  ignorant  of  one  another's  complaints.  One  or  two  things  were  said  to  bo 
very  remarkable  ;  all  their  complaints  were  in  the  day  time,  and  they  slept  com- 
fortably all  night ;  they  were  struck  dead  at  the  sight  of  the  Assembly's  Catechism, 
Cotton's  Milk  for  Babes,  and  some  other  good  books,  but  could  read  in  Oxford 
jests,  popish  and  quaker  books,  and  the  common  prayer,  without  any  difficulty. 
Is  it  possible  the  mind  of  man  should  be  capable  of  such  strong  prejudices  as  that 
a  suspicion  of  fraud  should  not  immediately  arise  ?  But  attachments  to  modes 
and  forms  in  religion  had  such  force,  that  some  of  these  circumstances  seem  rather 
to  have  confirmed  the  credit  of  the  children.  Sometimes  they  would  be  deaf, 
then  dumb,  then  blind  ;  and  sometimes  all  these  disorders  together  would  come 
upon  them.  Their  tongues  would  be  drawn  down  their  throats,  then  pulled  out 
upon  their  chins.  Their  jaws,  necks,  shoulders,  elbows  and  all  their  joints  would 
appear  to  be  dislocated,  and  they  would  make  most  piteous  outcries  of  burnings, 
of  being  cut  with  knives,  beat,  etc.,  and  the  marks  of  wounds  were  afterwards 
to  be  seen.  The  ministers  of  Boston  and  Charlestown  kept  a  day  of  fasting  and 
prayer  at  the  troubled  house  ;  after  which,  the  youngest  child  made  no  more 
complaints.  The  others  persevered,  and  the  magistrates  then  interposed,  and 
the  old  woman  was  apprehended,  but  upon  examination  would  neither  confess 
nor  deny,  and  appeared  to  be  disordered  in  her  senses.  Upon  the  report  of 
physicians  that  she  was  compos  mentis,  she  was  executed,  declaring  at  her  death 
the  children  should  not  be  relieved.  The  eldest,  after  this,  was  taken  into  a 
minister's  family,  where,  at  first,  she  behaved  orderly,  but,  after  some  time,  sud- 
denly fell  into  her  fits.  The  account  of  her  affliction  is  in  print ;  some  things  are 
mentioned  as  extraordinary,  which  tumblers  are  every  day  taught  to  perform  ; 
others  seem  more  than  natural,  but  it  was  a  time  of  great  credulity.  The  children 
returned  to  their  ordinary  behavior,  lived  to  adult  age,  made  profession  of  reli- 
gion, and  the  affliction  they  had  been  under  they  publicly  declared  to  be  one 
motive  to  it.  One  of  them  I  knew  many  years  after.  She  had  the  character  of 
a  very  sober  virtuous  woman,  and  never  made  any  acknowledgment  of  fraud  in 
this  transaction.  The  printed  account  was  published  with  a  preface  by  Mr.  Bax- 
ter, who  says,  "the  evidence  is  so  convincing,  that  he  must  be  a  very  obdurate  Sad- 
ducee  wJio  will  not  believe."11  It  obtained  credit  sufficient  together  with  other  pre- 
paratives, to  dispose  the  whole  country  to  be  easily  imposed  upon  by  the  more 
extensive  and  more  tragical  score,  which  was  presently  after  acted  at  Salem  and 
other  parts  of  the  county  of  Essex.  Not  many  years  before,  Glanvil  published  his 
witch  stories  in  England  ;  Perkins  and  other  nonconformists  were  earlier ;  but 
the  great  authority  was  that  of  Sir  Matthew  Hale,  revered  in  New  England,  not 
only  for  his  knowledge  in  the  law,  but  for  his  gravity  and  piety.  The  trial  of  the 
witches  in  Suffolk  was  published  in  1684.  All  these  books  were  in  New  England, 
and  the  conformity  between  the  behavior  of  Goodwin's  children  and  most  of  the 
supposed  bew*itched  at  Salem,  and  the  behavior  of  those  in  England,  is  so  exact, 
as  to  leave  no  room  to  doubt  the  stories  had  been  read  by  the  New  England  per- 
sons themselves,  or  had  been  told  to  them  by  others  who  had  read  them.  Indeed, 
this  conformity,  instead  of  giving  suspicion,  was  urged  in  confirmation  of  the 
truth  of  both  ;  the  Old  England  demons  and  the  New  being  so  much  alike.  The 
court  justified  themselves  from  books  of  law,  and  the  authorities  of  Keble,  Dalton 
and  other  lawyers,  then  of  the  first  character,  who  lay  down  rules  of  conviction, 
as  absurd  and  dangerous  as  any  which  were  practised  in  New  England.  The 
trial  of  Richard  Hatheway,  the  impostor,  before  Lord  Chief  Justice  Holt,  was  10 
or  12  years  after.  This  was  a  great  discouragement  to  prosecutions  in  England 


MASSACHUSETTS.  265 

for  witchcraft,  but  an  effectual  stop  was  not  put  to  them,  until  the  Act  of  Parlia- 
ment in  the  reign  of  his  late  Majesty.  Even  this  has  not  wholly  cured  the  com- 
mon people,  and  we  hear  of  old  women  ducked  and  cruelly  murdered  within 
these  last  twenty  years.  Reproach,  then,  for  hanging  witches,  although  it  has 
been  often  cast  upon  the  people  of  New  England,  by  those  of  Old,  yet  it  must 
have  been  done  with  an  ill  grace.  The  people  of  New  England  were  of  a  grave 
cast,  and  had  long  been  disposed  to  give  a  serious  solemn  construction  even  to 
common  events  in  providence  ;  but  in  Old  England,  the  reign  of  Charles  II.  was 
as  remarkable  for  gaiety  as  any  whatsoever,  and  for  scepticism  and  infidelity,  as 
any  which  preceded  it. 

Sir  William  Phips,  the  governor,  upon  his  arrival,  fell  in  with  the  opinion  pre- 
vailing. Mr.  Stoughton,  the  lieutenant-governor,  upon  whose  judgment  great 
stress  was  laid,  had  taken  up  this  notion,  that  although  the  devil  might  appear  in 
the  shape  of  a  guilty  person,  yet  he  would  never  be  permitted  to  assume  the 
shape  of  an  innocent  person.  This  opinion,  at  first,  was  generally  received. 
Some  of  the  most  religious  women  who  were  accused,  when  they  saw  the  appear- 
ance of  distress  and  torture  in  their  accusers,  and  heard  their  solemn  declarations, 
that  they  saw  the  shapes  or  spectres  of  the  accused  afflicting  them,  persuaded 
themselves  they  were  witches,  and  that  the  devil,  some  how  or  other,  although 
they  could  not  remember  how  or  when,  had  taken  possession  of  their  evil  hearts 
and  obtained  some  sort  of  assent  to  his  afflicting  in  their  shapes  ;  and  thereupon 
they  thought  they  might  be  justified  in  confessing  themselves  guilty. 

It  seems,  at  this  day,  with  some  people,  perhaps  but  few,  to  be  the  question 
whether  the  accused  or  the  afflicted  were  under  a  preternatural  or  diabolical  pos- 
session, rather  than  whether  the  afflicted  were  under  bodily  distempers,  or  alto- 
gether guilty  of  fraud  and  imposture. 

As  many  of  the  original  examinations  have  fallen  into  my  hands,  it  may  be  of 
service  to  represent  this  affair  in  a  more  full  and  impartial  light  than  it  has  yet 
appeared  to  the  world. 

In  February,  1G91-2,  a  daughter  and  a  niece  of  Mr.  Parris,  the  minister  of 
Salem  village,  girls  of  ten  or  eleven  years  of  age,  and  two  other  girls  in  the 
neighborhood,  made  the  same  sort  of  complaints  as  Goodwin's  children  had 
made,  two  or  three  years  before.  The  physicians,  having  no  other  way  of  ac- 
counting for  the  disorder,  pronounced  them  bewitched.  An  Indian  woman,  who 
was  brought  into  the  country  from  New  Spain,  and  then  living  with  Mr.  Parris, 
tried  some  experiments  which  she  pretended  to  be  used  in  her  own  country, 
in  order  to  find  out  the  witch.  This  coming  to  the  children's  knowledge,  they 
cried  out  upon  the  poor  Indian  as  appearing  to  them,  pinching,  pricking,  and 
tormenting  them  ;  and  fell  into  fits.  Tituba,  the  Indian,  acknowledged  that  she 
had  learned  how  to  find  out  a  witch,  but  denied  that  she  was  one  herself.  Several 
private  fasts  were  kept  at  the  minister's  house,  and  several,  more  public,  by  the 
whole  village,  and  then  a  general  fast  through  the  colony,  to  seek  to  God  to  re- 
buke Satan,  etc.  So  much  notice  taken  of  the  children,  together  with  the  pity 
and  compassion  expressed  by  those  who  visited  them,  not  only  tended  to  confirm 
them  in  their  design,  but  to  draw  others  into  the  like.  Accordingly,  the  number 
of  the  complainants  soon  increased,  and  among  them  there  were  two  or  three 
women,  and  some  girls  old  enough  for  witnesses.  These  had  their  fits  too,  and, 
when  in  them,  cried  out,  not  only  against  Tituba,  but  against  Sarah  Osburn,  a 
melancholy  distracted  old  woman,  and  Sarah  Good,  another  old  woman  who  was 
bedrid.  Tituba,  at  length,  confessed  herself  a  witch,  and  that  the  two  old  women 


266  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

were  her  confederates ;  and  they  were  all  committed  to  prison  ;  and  Tituba,  upon 
search,  was  found  to  have  scars  upon  her  back  which  were  called  the  devil's 
mark,  but  might  as  well  have  been  supposed  those  of  her  Spanish  master.  This 
commitment  was  on  the  1st  of  March.  About  three  weeks  after,  two  other  wo- 
men, of  good  characters  and  church  members,  Corey  and  Nurse,  were  complained 
of  and  brought  upon  their  examination  ;  when  these  children  fell  into  fits,  and  the 
mother  of  one  of  them,  and  wite  of  Thomas  Putnam,  joined  with  the  children 
and  complained  of  Nurse  as  tormenting  her  ;  and  made  most  terrible  shrieks,  to 
the  amazement  of  all  the  neighborhood.  The  old  women  denied  everything;  but 
were  sent  to  prison  ;  and  such  was  the  infatuation,  that  a  child  of  Sarah  Good, 
about  four  or  five  years  old,  was  committed  also,  being  charged  with  biting  some 
of  the  afflicted,  who  showed  the  print  of  small  teeth  on  their  arms.  On  April  3d 
Mr.  Parris  took  for  his  text,  "Have  not  I  chosen  you  twelve,  and  one  of  you  is  a 
devil."  Sarah  Cloyse,  supposing  it  to  be  occasioned  by  Nurse's  case,  who  was 
her  sister,  went  out  of  the  meeting.  She  was,  presently  after,  complained  of  for 
a  witch,  examined,  and 'committed.  Elizabeth  Procter  was  charged  about  the 
same  time :  her  husband,  as  every  good  husband  would  have  done,  accompanied 
her  to  her  examination,  but  it  cost  the  poor  man  his  life.  Some  of  the  afflicted 
cried  out  upon  him  also,  and  they  were  both  committed  to  prison. 

Instead  of  Suspecting  and  sifting  the  witnesses,  and  suffering  them  to  be  cross- 
examined,  the  authority,  to  say  no  more,  were  imprudent  in  making  use  of  lead- 
ing questions,  and  thereby  putting  words  into  their  mouths  or  suffering  others  to 
do  it.  Mr.  Parris  was  over-officious  ;  most  of  the  examinations,  although  in  the 
presence  of  one  or  more  of  the  magistrates,  were  taken  by  him. 

Governor  Hutchinson,  in  the  second  volume  of  his  Histdry,  introduces  an  ex- 
amination of  several  of  the  accused,  which  is  certified  by  John  Hawthorne  and 
John  Corwin,  Assistants,  but  owing  to  prescribed  limits  they  are  here  omitted  : 

No  wonder  the  whole  country  was  in  a  consternation,  when  persons  of  sober 
lives  and  unblemished  characters  were  committed  to  prison  upon  such  sort  of 
evidence.  The  most  effectual  way  to  prevent  an  accusation,  was  to  become  an 
accuser;  and  accordingly  the  number  of  the  afflicted  increased  everyday,  and  the 
number  of  the  accused  in  proportion,  who  in  general  persisted  in  their  inno- 
cency ;  but,  being  strongly  urged  to  give  glory  to  God  by  their  confession,  and 
intimation  being  given  that  this  was  the  only  way  to  save  their  lives,  and  their 
friends  urging  them  to  it,  some  were  brought  to  own  their  guilt.  The  first  con- 
fession upon  the  files  is  of  Deliverance  Hobbs,  May  llth.  1692,  being  in  prison. 
She  owned  everything  she  was  required  to  do.  The  confessions  multiplied  the 
witches  ;  new  companions  were  always  mentioned,  who  were  immediately  sent 
for  and  examined.  Thus  more  than  a  hundred  women,  many  of  them  of  fair 
characters  and  of  the  most  reputable  families,  in  the  towns  of  Salem,  Beverly, 
Andover,  Billerica,  etc.,  were  apprehended,  examined,  and  generally  committed 
to  prison.  The  confessions  being  much  of  the  same  tenor,  one  or  two  may  serve 
for  specimens  : 

"The  examination  and  confession  (8  Sept.  92,)  of  Mary  Osgood,  wife  of 
Captain  Osgood  of  Andover,  taken  before  John  Hawthorne  and  other  their 
Majesties  justices. 

"She  confesses,  that  about  11  years  ago,  when  she  was  in  a  melancholy  state 
and  condition,  she  used  to  walk  abroad  in  her  orchard  ;  and  upon  a  certain  time 


MASSACHUSETTS.  267 

she  saw  the  appearance  of  a  cat,  at  the  end  of  the  house,  which  yet  she  thought 
was  a  real  cat.  However,  at  that  time,  it  diverted  her  from  praying  to  God,  and 
instead  thereof  she  prayed  to  the  devil ;  about  which  time  she  made  a  covenant 
with  the  devil,  who,  as  a  black  man,  came  to  her  and  presented  her  a  book,  upon 
which  she  laid  her  finger  and  that  left  a  red  spot :  and  that  upon  her  signing,  the 
devil  told  her  he  was  her  God,  and  that  she  should  serve  and  worship  him,  and, 
she  believes,  she  consented  to  it.  She  says  further,  that  about  two  years  agone, 
she  was  carried  through  the  air,  in  company  with  deacon  Frye's  wife,  Ebenezer 
Baker's  wife,  and  Goody  Tyler,  to  five-mile  pond,  where  she  was  baptized  by 
the  devil,  who  dipped  her  face  in  the  water  and  made  her  renounce  her  former 
baptism,  and  told  her  she  must  be  his,  soul  and  body,  forever,  and  thai  she  must 
serve  him,  which  she  promised  to  do.  She  says,  the  renouncing  her  first  baptism 
\vas  alter  her  first  dipping,  and  that  she  was  transported  back  again  through  the 
air,  in  company  with  the  forenarned  persons,  in  the  same  manner  as  she  went, 
and  believes  they  were  carried  upon  a  pole.  Q.  How  many  persons  were  upon 
the  pole?  A.  As  I  said  before  (viz..  four  persons  and  no  more  but  whom  she 
had  named  above).  She  confesses  she  has  afflicted  three  persons,  John  Sawdy, 
Martha  Sprague,  and  Rose  Foster,  and  that  she  did  it  by  pinching  her  bed 
clothes,  and  giving  consent  the  devil  should  do  it  iu  her  shape,  and  that  the  devil 
could  not  do  it  without  her  consent.  She  confesses  the  afflicting  persons  iu  the 
court,  by  the  glance  of  her  eye.  She  says,  as  she  was  coming  down  to  Salem  to 
be  examined,  she  and  the  rest  of  the  company  with  her  stopped  at  Mr.  Phillips' 
to  refresh  themselves,  and  the  afflicted  persons,  being  behind  them  upon  the  road, 
ciime  up  just  as  she  was  mounting  again,  and  were  then  afflicted,  and  cried  out 
upon  her,  so  that  she  was  forced  to  stay  until  they  were  all  past,  and  said  she 
only  looked  that  way  towards  them.  Q.  Do  you  know  the  devil  can  take  the 
shape  of  an  innocent  person  and  afflict  ?  A.  I  believe  he  cannot.  Q.  Who 
taught  you  this  way  of  witchcraft  ?  A.  Satan  (and  that  he  promised  her  abun- 
dance of  satisfaction  and  quietness  in  her  future  state,  but  never  performed  any- 
thing ;  and  that  she  has  lived  more  miserably  and  more  discontented  since,  than 
ever  before).  She  confesses  further,  that  she  herself,  in  company  with  Goody 
Parker,  Goody  Tyler,  and  Goody  Dean,  had  a  meeting  at  Moses  Tyler's  house, 
last  Monday  night,  to  afflict,  and  that  she  and  Goody  Dean  carried  the  shape  of 
Mr.  Dean,  the  minister,  between  them,  to  make  persons  believe  that  Mr.  Dean 
afflicted.  Q.  What  hindered  you  from  accomplishing  what  you  intended  ?  A. 
The  Lord  would  not  suffer  it  so  to  be,  that  the  devil  should  afflict  in  an  innocent 
person's  shape.  Q.  Have  you  been  at  any  other  witch  meetings?  A.  I  know 
nothing  thereof,  as  I  shall  answer  in  the  presence  of  God  and  his  people ;  (but 
said,  that  the  black  man  stood  before  her,  and  told  her  that  what  she  had  con- 
fessed was  a  lie  ;  notwithstanding,  she  said  that  what  she  had  confessed  was  true, 
and  thereto  put  her  hand).  Her  husband  being  present,  was  asked  if  he  judged 
his  wife  to  be  any  way  discomposed.  He  answered,  that  having  lived  with  her 
so  long,  he  doth  not  judge  her  to  be  any  ways  discomposed,  but  has  cause  to  be- 
lieve what  she  has  said  is  true.  .  .  .  When  Mistress  Osgood  was  first  called, 
she  afflicted  Martha  Sprague  and  Rose  Foster,  by  the  glance  of  her  eyes,  and  re- 
covered them  out  of  their  fits  by  the  touch  of  her  hand.  Mary  Lacey,  Betty 
Johnson,  and  Hannah  Post  saw  Mistress  Osgood  afflicting  Sprague  and  Foster. 
.  .  .  The  said  Hannnh  Post,  and  Mary  Lacey,  and  Betty  Johnson,  jun.,  and 
Rose  Foster  and  Mary  Richardson  were  afflicted  by  Mistress  Osgood,  in  the  time 
of  their  examination,  and  recovered  by  her  touching  of  their  hands. 


268  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"  I  underwritten,  being  appointed  by  authority,  to  take  this  examination,  do 
testify  upon  oath,  taken  in  court,  that  this  is  a  true  copy  of  the  substance  of  it  to 
the  best  of  my  knowledge,  5  Jan.,  1692-3.  The  within  Mary  Osgood  was  ex- 
amined before  their  Majesties  justices  of  the  peace  in  Salem. 

"Attest,  JOHN  HIGGINSON,  Just.  Peace." 

A  miserable  negro  woman,  charged  by  some  of  the  girls  with  afflicting  them, 
confessed,  but  was  cunning  enough  to  bring  the  greatest  share  of  the  guilt  upon 
her  mistress : 

"Salem,  Monday,  July  4,  1G92.  The  examination  of  Candy,  a  negro  woman, 
before  Bartholomew  Gedney  and  John  Hawthorne,  Esqrs.  Mr.  Nicholas  Noyes 
also  present : 

"$.  Candy,  are  you  a  witch?  A.  Candy  no  witch  in  her  country.  Candy's 
mother  no  witch.  Candy  no  witch,  Barbados.  This  country,  mistress  give 
Candy  witch.  Q.  Did  your  mistress  make  you  a  witch  in  this  country  ?  A. 
Yes,  in  this  country  mistress  give  Candy  witch.  Q.  What  did  your  mistress  do 
to  make  you  a  witch  ?  A.  Mistress  bring  book  and  pen  and  ink,  make  Candy 
write  in  it.  Q.  What  did  you  write  in  it  ?  A.  She  took  a  pen  and  ink,  and  upon  a 
book  or  paper  made  a  mark.  Q.  How  did  you  afflict  or  hurt  these  folks,  where 
are  the  puppets  you  did  it  with  ?  She  asked  to  go  out  of  the  room  and  she  would 
show  or  tell ;  upon  which  she  had  liberty,  one  going  with  her,  and  she  presently 
brought  in  two  clouts,  one  with  two  knots  tied  in  it,  the  other  one  ;  which  being 
seen  by  Mary  Warren,  Deliverance  Hobbs,  and  Abigail  Hobbs,  they  were  greaily 
affrighted  and  fell  into  violent  fits,  and  all  of  them  said  that  the  black  man  and 
Mrs.  Hawkes,  and  the  negro  stood  by  the  puppets  or  rags  and  pinched  them,  and 
then  they  were  afflicted,  and  when  the  knots  were  untied  }7et  they  continued  as 
aforesaid.  A  bit  of  one  of  the  rags  being  set  on  fire,  the  afflicted  all  said  they 
were  burned,  and  cried  out  dreadfully.  The  rags  being  put  into  water,  two  of 
the  forenamed  persons  were  in  dreadful  fits,  almost  choked,  and  the  other  was 
violently  running  down  to  the  river,  but  was  stopped. 

"Attest,  JOHN  HAWTIIOKNE,  Just.  Peace." 

Mrs.  Hawkes,  the  mistress,  had  no  other  way  ^o  save  her  life  but  to  confess 


The  recantation  of  several  persons  in  Andover  will  show  in  what  manner  they 
were  brought  to  their  confessions : 

"  We,  whose  names  are  underwritten,  inhabitants  of  Andover ;  when  as  that 
horrible  and  tremendous  judgment  beginning  at  Salem  village  in  the  year  1692, 
by  some  called  witchcraft,  first  breaking  forth  at  Mr.  Parris's  house,  several 
young  persons,  being  seemingly  afflicted,  did  accuse  several  persons  for  afflicting 
them,  and  many  there  believing  it  so  to  be,  we  being  informed  that  if  a  person 
was  sick,  the  afflicted  person  could  tell  what  or  who  was  the  cause  of  that  sick- 
ness :  Joseph  Ballard,  of  Andover,  his  wife  being  sick  at  the  same  time,  he,  either 
from  himself  or  by  the  advice  of  others,  fetched  two  of  the  persons  called  the  af- 
flicted persons,  from  Salem  village  to  Andovcr,  which  was  the  beginning  of  that 
dreadful  calamity  that  befell  us  in  Andover,  believing  the  said  accusations  to  be 
true,  sent  for  the  said  persons  to  come  together  to  the  meeting  house  in  Andover, 
the  afflicted  persons  being  there.  After  Mr.  Barnard  had  been  at  prayer,  we 
were  blindfolded,  and  our  hands  were  laid  upon  the  afflicted  persons,  they  being 
in  their  fits  and  falling  into  their  fits  at  our  coming  into  their  presence,  as  they 


MASSACHUSETTS.  260 

said  ;  and  some  led  us  and  laid  our  hands  upon  them,  and  then  they  said  they 
•were  well,  and  that  we  were  guilty  of  afflicting  them :  whereupon  we  were  all 
seized  as  prisoners,  by  a  warrant  from  the  justice  of  the  peace,  and  forthwith 
carried  to  Salem.  And,  by  reason  of  that  sudden  surprisal,  we  knowing  our- 
selves altogether  innocent  of  that  crime,  we  were  all  exceedingly  astonished  and 
amazed,  and  consternated  and  affrighted  even  out  of  our  reason  ;  and  our  nearest 
and  dearest  relations,  seeing  us  in  that  dreadful  condition,  and  knowing  our 
great  danger,  apprehended  there  was  no  other  way  to  save  our  lives,  as  the  case 
was  then  circumstanced,  but  by  our  confessing  ourselves  to  be  such  and  such 
persons  as  the  afflicted  represented  us  to  be,  they,  out  of  tenderness  and  pity, 
persuaded  us  to  confess  what  we  did  confess.  And  indeed  that  confession,  that 
it  is  said  we  made,  was  no  other  than  what  was  suggested  to  us  by  some  gentle- 
men, they  telling  us  that  we  were  witches,  and  they  knew  it,  and  we  knew  it, 
which  made  us  think  it  was  so  ;  and  our  understandings,  our  reason,  our  faculties, 
almost  gone,  we  were  not  capable  of  judging  of  our  condition  ;  as  also  the  hard 
measures  they  used  with  us  rendered  us  incapable  of  making  our  defence,  but 
said  anything  and  everything  which  they  desired,  and  most  of  what  we  said  was 
but,  in  effect,  a  consenting  to  what  they  said.  Some  time  after,  when  we  were 
better  composed,  they  telling  us  what  we  had  confessed,  we  did  profess  that  we 
were  innocent  and  ignorant  of  such  things ;  and  we  hearing  that  Samuel  Ward- 
well  had  renounced  his  confession,  and  quickly  after  condemned  and  executed, 
some  of  us  were  told  we  were  going  after  Wardwell. 

MARY  OSGOOD,  DELIVERANCE  DANE,  SARAH  WILSON, 
MARY  TILER,     ABIGAIL  BARKER,       HANNAH  TILER." 

The  testimonials  to  these  persons'  characters,  by  the  principal  inhabitants  of 
Andover,  will  outweigh  the  credulity  of  the  justices  who  committed  them,  or  of 
the  grand  jury  which  found  bills  against  them. 

Although  the  number  of  prisoners  had  been  increasing,  from  February  until 
the  beginning  of  June,  yet  there  had  been  no  trials.  The  charter  was  expected 
from  day  to  day,  and  the  new  constitution  of  government  to  take  place.  Soon 
after  its  arrival,  commissioners  of  oyer  and  terminer  were  appointed  for  the  trial 
of  witchcrafts.  By  the  charter,  the  general  assembly  are  to  constitute  courts  of 
justice,  and  the  governor  with  the  advice  of  the  council  is  to  nominate  and  ap- 
point judges,  commissioners  of  oyer  and  terminer,  etc.,  but  whether  the  gover- 
nor, with  advice  of  council,  can  constitute  a  court  of  oyer  and  terminer,  without 
authority  for  that  purpose  derived  from  the  general  assembly,  has  been  made  a 
question  ;  however,  this,  the  most  important  court  to  the  life  of  the  subject  which 
ever  was  held  in  the  province,  was  constituted  in  no  other  manner.  It  was 
opened  at  Salem,  the  first  week  in  Jun^e.  Only  one  of  the  accused,  Bridget 
Bishop,  alias  Oliver,  was  then  brought  to  trial.  She  had  been  charged  with 
witchcraft  twenty  years  before.  The  accuser,  upon  his  death-bed,  confessed  his 
own  guilt  in  the  accusation ;  but  an  old  woman,  once  charged  with  being  a  witch, 
is  never  afterwards  wholly  free  from  the  accusation,  and  she  being,  besides,  of  a 
fractious  temper,  all  the  losses  the  neighbors  met  with  in  their  cattle  and  poultry, 
and  accidents  in  oversetting  their  carts,  etc.,  were  attributed  to  her  spite  against 
them,  and  now  suffered  to  be  testified  against  her.  This  evidence,  together  with 
the  testimony  of  the  afflicted,  and  of  the  confessors,  what  they  had  heard  from 
the  spectres  and  seen  of  her  spectre,  and  an  excrescence,  called  a  teat,  found 
upon  her  body,  were  deemed  by  court  and  jury  plenary  proof,  and  she  was  con- 


270  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

victed,  and  on  the  10th  of  June  executed.     The  further  trials  were  put  off  to  the 
adjournment,  the  30th  of  June. 

At  the  first  trial,  there  was  no  colony  or  provincial  law  against  witchcraft  in 
force.  The  statute  of  James  the  First  must  therefore  have  been  considered  as  in 
force  in  the  province,  witchcraft  not  being  an  offence  at  common  law.  Before 
the  adjournment,  the  old  colony  law,  which  makes  witchcraft  a  capital  offence, 
was  revived,  with  the  other  local  laws,  as  they  were  called,  and  made  a  law  of 
the  province. 

At  the  adjournment,  June  30,  five  women  were  brought  upon  trial,  Sarah  Good, 
Rebekah  Nurse,  Susannah  Martin,  Elizabeth  How,  and  Sarah  Wilder. 

There  was  no  difficulty  with  any  but  Nurse.  She  was  a  member  of  the  church 
and  of  a  good  character,  and,  as  to  her,  the  jury  brought  in  their  verdict  not 
guilty ;  upon  which  the  accusers  made  a  great  clamor,  and  the  court  expressed 
their  dissatisfaction  with  the  verdict,  which  caused  some  of  the  jury  to  desire  to 
go  out  again ;  and  then  they  brought  her  in  guilty.  This  was  a  hard  case,  and  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  be  the  execution  of  the  law  and  justice  in  mercy.  In  a  capital 
case,  the  court  often  refuses  a  verdict  of  guilty,  but  rarely,  if  ever,  sends  a  jury 
out  again  upon  one  of  not  guilty.  It  does  not  indeed  appear  that  in  this  case  the 
jury  was  ordered  out  again  ;  but  the  dissatisfaction  expressed  by  the  court  seems 
to  have  been  in  such  a  manner  as  to  have  the  same  effect. 

At  the  next  adjournment,  August  5th,  George  Burroughs,  John  Procter,  and 
Elizabeth  his  wile,  John  Willard,  George  Jacobs,  and  Martha  Carrier  were  all 
brought  upon  trial  and  condemned,  and  all  executed  upon  the  19th  of  August, 
except  Elizabeth  Procter,  who  escaped  by  pleading  pregnancy. 

Burroughs  had  been  a  preacher,  several  years  before  this,  at  Salem  village, 
where  there  had  been  some  misunderstanding  between  him  and  the  people.  Af- 
terwards he  became  a  preacher  at  Wells,  in  the  province  of  Maine.  We  will  be 
a  little  more  particular  in  our  account  of  his  trial.  The  indictment  was  as 
follows : 

"Anno  Regis  et  Reginae,  etc.,  quarto. 

"Essex  w.  The  Jurors  for  our  sovereign  Lord  and  Lady  the  King  and  Queen, 
present,  that  George  Burroughs,  late  of  Falmouth,  in  the  province  of  Massachu- 
setts bay,  clerk,  ihe  ninth  day  of  May,  in  the  fourth  year  of  the  reign  of  our 
sovereign  Lord  and  Lady  William  and  Mary,  by  the  grace  of  God  of  England, 
Scotland,  France,  and  Ireland,  King  and  Queen,  defenders  of  the  faith>  etc.,  and 
divers  other  days  and  times,  as  well  before  as  after,  certain  detestable  arts  called 
witchcrafts  and  sorceries ;  wickedly  and  feloniously  hath  used,  practised,  and 
exercised,  at  and  within  the  town  of  Salem,  in  the  county  of  Essex  aforesaid,  in, 
upon,  and  against  one  Mary  Walcot  of  Salem  village,  in  the  county  of  Essex, 
single  woman  ;  by  which  said  wicked  arts,  the  said  Mary  Walcot,  the  ninth  day 
of  May,  in  the  fourth  year  above  said,  and  divers  other  days  and  times,  as  well 
before  as  after,  was  and  is  tortured,  afflicted,  pined,  consumed,,  wasted,  and  tor- 
mented, against  the  peace  of  our  sovereign  Lord  and  Lady  the  King  and  Queen, 
and  against  the  form  of  the  statute  in  that  case  made  and  provided.  Endorsed 
Billa  vera ."  Three  other  bills  were  found  against  him  foi;  witchcrafts  upon 
other  persons,  to  all  which  he  pleaded  not  guilty,  and  put  himself  upon  trial,  etc. 

September  the  9th,  Martha  Cory,  Mary  Esty,  Alice  Parker,  Ann  Pudeater, 
Dorcas  Hoar,  and  Mary  Bradbury  were  tried,  and  September  17th,  Margaret 
Scott,  Wilmot  Read,  Samuel  Wardwell,  Mary  Parker,  Abigail  Falkner,  Rebekah 


MASSACHUSETTS.  27 1 

Eames,  Mary  Lacey,  Ann  Foster,  and  Abigail  Hobbs,  and  all  received  sentence 
of  death.  Those  in  italics  were  executed  the  22d  following. 

Mary  Esty,  who  was  sister  to  Nurse,  gave  in  to  the  court  a  petition  ;  in  which 
she  says  she  does  not  ask  her  own  life,  although  she  is  conscious  of  her  inno- 
cence ;  but  prays  them,  before  they  condemn  any  more,  to  examine  the  confessing 
\vitchesmore  strictly;  for  she  is  sure  they  have  belied  themselves  and  others, 
•which  will  appear  in  the  world  to  which  she  is  going,  if  it  should  not  in  this 
world. 

Those  who  were  condemned  and  not  executed,  I  suppose,  all  confessed  their 
ruilt.  I  have  seen  the  confessions  of  several  of  them.  Wardwcll  also  confessed, 
but  he  recanted  and  suffered.  His  own  wife,  as  well  as  his  daughter.*  accused 
him  and  saved  themselves.  There  are  many  instances,  among  the  examinations, 
of  children  accusing  their  parents,  and  some  of  parents  accusing  their  children. 
This  is  the  only  instance  of  a  wife  or  husband  accusing  one  the  other,  and  surely 
this  instance  ought  not  to  have  been  suffered.  I  shudder  while  I  am  relating  it. 
Besides  this  irregularity,  there  were  others  in  the  course  of  these  trials.  The 
facts  laid  in  the  indictments  were,  witchcrafts  upon  particular  persons,  there  was 
no  evidence  of  these  facts,  but  what  was  called  spectral  evidence,  which,  in  the 
opinion  of  the  ministers,  was  insufficient ;  some  of  the  other  evidence  was  of  facts 
ten  or  twenty  years  before,  which  had  no  relation  to  those  with  which  they  were 
charged  ;  and  some  of  them  no  relation  to  the  crime  of  witchcraft.  Evidence  is 
not  admitted,  even  against  the  general  character  of  persons  upon  trial,  unless  to 
encounter  other  evidence  brought  in  favor  of  it ;  much  less  ought  their  whole 
lives  to  be  arraigned,  without  giving  time  sufficient  for  defence. 

Giles  Cory  was  the  only  person,  besides  those  already  named,  who  suffered. 
He,  seeing  the  fate  of  all  who  had  put  themselves  upon  trial,  refused  to  plead  ; 
but  the  judges,  who  had  not  been  careful  enough  in  observing  the  law  in  favor 
of  the  prisoners,  determined  to  do  it  against  this  unhappy  man,  and  he  had  judg- 
ment of  peinefort  et  dure  for  standing  mute,  and  was  pressed  to  death  ;  the  only 
instance  which  ever  was,  either  before  this  time  or  since,  in  New  England.  In 
all  ages  of  the  world  superstitious  credulity  has  produced  greater  cruelty  than  is 
practised  among  the  Hottentots,  or  other  nations,  whose  belief  of  a  deity  is  called 
in  question. 

This  court  of  oyer  and  terminer,  happy  for  the  country,  sat  no  more.  Nine- 
teen persons  had  been  executed,  all  asserting  their  innocence  ;  but  this  was  not 
enough  to  open  the  eyes  of  the  people  in  general.  The  jail  at  Salem  was  filled 
with  prisoners,  and  many  had  been  removed  to  other  jails:  some  were  admitted 
to  bail,  all  reserved  for  trial,  a  law  having  passed  constituting  a  supreme  standing 
court,  with  jurisdiction  in  capital,  as  well  as  all  other  criminal  cases.  The  gen- 
eral court  also  showed  their  zeal  against  witchcraft,  by  a  law  passed  in  the  words 
of  the  statute  of  James  I.,  but  this  law  was  disallowed  by  the  king. 

The  time,  by  law,  for  holding  the  court  at  Salem,  was  not  until  January.  This 
gave  opportunity  for  consideration  ;  and  this  alone  might  have  been  sufficient  for  a 
change  of  opinions  and  measures,  but  another  reason  has  been  given  for  it.  Ordi- 
narily, persons  of  the  lowest  rank  in  life  have  had  the  misfortune  to  be  charged 
with  witchcrafts ;  and  although  many  such  had  suffered,  yet  there  remained  in  prison 
a  number  of  women,  of  as  reputable  families  as  any  in  the  towns  where  they  lived, 

*  The  daughter  upon  a  second  enquiry  denied  that  she  knew  her  father  and  mother  to  be  witches;  tho 
vife  was  not  asked  a  second  Uma 


272  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

and  several  persons,  of  still  superior  rank,  were  hinted  at  by  the  pretended  be- 
witched, or  by  the  confessing  witches.  Some  had  been  publicly  named.  Dudley 
Bradstreet,  a  justice  of  the  peace,  who  had  been  appointed  one  of  president  Dud- 
ley's council,  and  who  was  son  to  the  worthy  old  Governor,  then  living,  found 
it  necessary  to  abscond.  Having  been  remiss  in  prosecuting,  he  had  been  charged 
by  some  of  the  afflicted  as  a  confederate.  His  brother,  John  Bradstreet,  was 
forced  to  fly  also.  Calef  says  it  was  intimated  that  Sir  William  Phips's  lady  was 
among  the  accused.  It  is  certain,  that  one  who  pretended  to  be  bewitched  at 
Boston,  where  the  infection  was  beginning  to  spread,  charged  the  secretary  of 
the  colony  of  Connecticut. 

At  the  court  in  January,  the  grand  jury  found  bills  against  about  50  for  witch- 
craft, one  or  two  men,  the  rest  women  ;  but  upon  trial,  they  were  all  acquitted, 
except  three  of  the  worst  characters,  and  those  the  Governor  reprieved  for  the 
king's  mercy.  All  that  were  not  brought  upon  trial  he  ordered  to  be  discharged. 
Such  a  jail  delivery  was  made  in  this  court  as  has  never  been  known  at  any  other 
time  in  New  England. 

PRIMITIVE   EXTRAVAGANCE. 

Mr.  Dudley  was  in  favor  of  making  Newtown,  now  Cambridge,  the  metropolis 
of  the  colony  ;  and  after  consultation,  Governor  Winthrop,  and  the  assistants, 
agreed  to  settle  there,  and  streets  and  squares,  and  market  places,  were  duly  sur- 
veyed and  laid  out.  In  the  spring  of  1631,  Mr.  Dudley  and  others  commenced 
building.  Governor  Winthrop  had  set  up  the  frame  of  a  house,  but  soon  after 
changed  his  mind,  and  removed  it  to  Boston.  Mr.  Dudley  finished  his  house, 
and  moved  into  it  with  his  family.  The  first  houses  were  rude  structures,  the 
roofs  covered  with  thatch,  the  fire-places  generally  made  of  rough  stones,  and  the 
chimneys  of  boards,  plastered  with  clay.  The  settlers  were  publicly  enjoined  to 
avoid  all  superfluous  expense,  in  order  that  their  money  might  be  reserved  for 
any  unforeseen  necessities.  Mr.  Dudley  having  finished  his  house  with  a  little 
more  regard  to  domestic  comfort,  exposed  himself  to  public  censure.  At  a  meet- 
ing of  the  Governor  and  assistants,  he  was  told,  that  "he  did  not  well  to  bestow 
such  cost  about  wainscoting  and  adorning  his  house,  in  the  beginning  of  a  planta- 
tion, both  in  regard  to  the  expense,  and  the  example."  Dudley's  answer  was, 
that  it  was  for  the  warmth  of  his  house,  and  the  charge  was  little,  "being  but 
clapboards  nailed  to  the  wall  in  the  form  of  wainscot." 

THE   MEN   OF  "SEVENTY- SIX." 

In  Stockbridge,  Berkshire  county,  Mass.,  Deacon  Cleveland  and  another  lead- 
ing member  of  the  church  had  been  selected,  for  their  positions  in  the  centre  of 
the  valley  and  of  the  village,  to  spread  the  note  of  alarm.  The  son  of  the  deacon, 
a  young  man  only  17  years  of  age  at  the  time,  gave  to  a  friend  of  the  writer  a 
description  of  the  reception  of  the  news  in  that  little  village. 

One  quiet  Sabbath  morning,  when  all  was  still,  as  it  ever  was  in  that  peaceful 
valley  on  that  holy  day,  he  was  suddenly  startled  by  the  report  of  a  musket.  On 
going  out  to  ascertain  what  it  meant,  he  saw  his  father  in  the  back  yard  with  the 
discharged  piece  in  his  hand.  Before  he  had  time  to  express  his  wonder,  another 
report  broke  the  stillness  of  the  Sabbath  morning,  and  as  the  smoke  curled  up  in  the 
damp  atmosphere,  he  saw  in  the  neighboring  yard  one  of  the  chief  pillars  of  the 
church,  standing  with  his  musket  in  his  hand.  He  paused  astounded,  not  know- 


MASSACHUSETTS.  273 

\ 

ing  what  awful  phenomenon  this  strange  event  portended.  He  said  that  he 
thought  that  the  judgment  day  had  come.  But  in  a  few  moments  he  noticed 
men  hurrying  along  the  hitherto  deserted  street,  with  weapons  in  their  hands. 
One  by  one  they  entered  his  father's  gate,  and  gathered  on  the  low  stoop.  The 
flashing  eye  and  flushed  cheek  told  that  something  eventful  had  transpired — and 
there  had. 

When  the  report  of  those  two  muskets  echoed  along  the  sweet  valley  of  the 
Housatonic  and  up  the  adjacent  slopes,  the  sturdy  farmers  knew  what  it  meant. 
The  father,  just  preparing  for  the  duties  of  the  sanctuary,  heard  it,  and,  flinging 
aside  his  Sabbath  garments,  hastily  resumed  his  work-day  dress,  and  taking  down 
his  musket,  strained  his  wife  and  children  in  one  long  farewell  embrace  to  his 
bosom,  then  turned  from  the  home  he  might  never  see  again.  The  young  man 
buckled  on  his  knapsack,  and  amid  sobs  and  tears  shut  the  little  farm  gate  behind 
him,  the  fire  in  his  eye  drying  up  the  tears  as  fast  as  they  welled  to  the  surface. 
Although  the  heart  heaved  with  emotion,  the  step  was  firm  and  the  brow  knit 
and  resolute. 

In  a  short  time  the  little  porch  was  crowded  with  men.  A  moment  after,  Dr. 
"West,  the  pastor,  was  seen  slowly  descending  the  hill  towards  the  same  place  of 
rendezvous.  It  was  a  cold,  drizzly  morning,  and  as,  with  his  umbrella  over  his 
head,  and  the  Bible  under  his  arm,  he  entered  the  dooryard,  his  benevolent  face 
revealed  the  emotion  that  was  struggling  within.  He,  too,  knew  the  meaning 
of  those  shots  ;  they  were  the  signals  agreed  upon  to  inform  the  minute-men  of 
Stockbridge  that  their  brethren  in  the  East  had  closed  with  the  foe  in  battle.  He 
ascended  the  steps,  and,  opening  the  Bible,  read  a  few  appropriate  passages,  and 
then  sent  up  a  fervent  prayer  to  Heaven.  When  he  ceased,  the  rattling  of  arms 
was  heard.  A  short  and  solemn  blessing  closed  the  impressive  scene,  and  before 
12  o'clock  twenty  men,  with  knapsacks  on  their  backs  and  muskets  on  their  shoul- 
ders, had  started  on  foot  for  Boston,  nearly  200  miles  distant. 

Oh,  how  deep  down  in  the  consciences  of  men  had  the  principles  of  that  strug- 
gle sunk,  when  they  made  those  Puritans  forget  the  solemn  duties  of  the  sanc- 
tuary for  the  higher  duties  of  the  battle-field.  They  had  been  taught  from  the 
pulpit  that  it  was  the  cause  of  God,  and  they  took  it  up  in  the  full  belief  they  had 
his  blessing  and  his  promise.  Such  scenes  as  these  were  enacted  every  where, 
and  from  the  consecrating  hand  of  the  man  of  God  went  forth  the  thousand  sepa- 
rate bands  that  soon  after  met  and  stood  shoulder  to  shoulder  on  the  smoky 
heights  of  Bunker  Hill. 
18 


RHODE    ISLAND. 

Area, 1,306  Square  Miles 

Population  in  1860,    . 174,620 

Population  in  1870, 217,356 

THE  State  of  Rhode  Island  is  the  smallest  in  the  Union.  It  is 
situated  between  41°  18'  and  42°  N.  latitude,  and  71°  8'  and  71°  52' 
"W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  by  Massachusetts, 
on  the  south  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the  west  by  Connecticut. 
Its  greatest  length,  from  north  to  south,  is  47  miles,  and  its  greatest 
breadth,  from  east  to  west,  about  37  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

Narraganset  Bay  divides  the  State  into  two  unequal  portions.  It 
enters  the  extreme  eastern  part,  and  extends  inland  for  30  miles  in  a 
northerly  direction.  It  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  and  has  a  depth 
sufficient  to  accommodate  the  largest  vessels.  It  abounds  in  good 
harbors,  of  which  the  harbor  of  Newport  is  the  finest,  and  is  unsur- 
passed by  any  in  the  world. 

The  bay  is  about  12  miles  wide,  is  thickly  studded  with  the  most 
picturesque  islands.  Different  names  are  given  its  various  parts.  The 
upper  part  is  called  Providence  Bay ;  the  northeastern  part,  Bristol 
Bay ;  just  east  of  whioh  is  Mount  Hope  Bay,  separated  from  Providence 
and  Bristol  bays  by  a  kmg,  narrow  peninsula  which  comprises  Bristol 
county.  Providence,  at  the  extreme  northern  end,  and  Newport  at 
the  southern  end  of  Narraganset  Bay,  are  the  capitals  of  the  State. 

Block  Island,  lying  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  10  miles  south  of  the 
mainland,  belongs  to  this  State. 

Rhode  Island,  lying  near  about  the  centre  of  Narraganset  Bay,  is 
the  principal  island  belonging  to  the  State/ and  has  given  its  name 
274 


RHODE    ISLAND.  275 

to  the  whole  Commonwealth.  It  is  exceedingly  beautiful  in  forma- 
tion ;  is  delightfully  situated,  and  covers  an  area  of  37  square  miles, 
being  15  miles  long,  and  about  3J  miles  wide.  It  contains  the  city 
of  Newport,  and  is  one  of  the  most  fashionable  summer  resorts  in  the 
Union. 

Canonicut,  Prudence,  and  several  other  small  islands  lie  in 
the  bay. 

The  Rivers  of  Rhode  Island  are  small.  The  principal  are  the 
Pawtucket  and  the  Pawtuxet.  The  former  flows  into  Narraganset  Bay 
to  the  east  of  Providence,  while  the  latter  and  its  tributaries  drain 
the  southern  and  western  parts  of  the  State.  The  Pawtucket  has  a 
fall  of  50  feet  at  the  town  of  Pawtucket.  Above  this  fall,  it  is  called 
the  Blackstone;  and  below  it,  the  Seekonk.  The  Taunton  River 
enters  the  southeastern  part  of  the  State,  from  Massachusetts.  These 
streams  all  possess  admirable  water-power. 

Along  the  Atlantic  coast  and  the  shores  of  Narraganset  Bay,  the 
surface  of  the  State  is  level ;  but  as  it  recedes  westward  and  north- 
ward it  becomes  rolling,  although  there  are  no  elevations  in  any  part 
meriting  the  name  of  mountains.  Mount  Hope,  in  the  eastern  part, 
the  Woonsocket  Hills,  in  the  northern  part,  and  Hopkins7  Hill,  about 

the  centre  of  the  State,  are  the  principal  elevations. 

9  i 

MINERALS. 

Rhode  Island  possesses  very  few  minerals.  Anthracite  coal  has 
been  found,  but  scarcely  any  attention  has  been  paid  to  it.  Iron, 
limestone,  marble,  and  serpentine  also  exist  to  a  limited  extent. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  resembles  that  of  Massachusetts,  except  that  the  imme- 
diate proximity  of  the  sea  does  much  to  mitigate  the  extremes  of  cold 
in  the  winter  and  of  heat  in  the  summer,  with  which  the  Bay  State  is 
afflicted ;  so  that  Rhode  Island  is,  perhaps,  in  this  respect,  the  most 
pleasant  of  all  the  New  England  States. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

In  some  places  the  soil  is  passably  fertile,  but  in  others  it  requires 
the  most  careful  and  laborious  cultivation.  On  the  islands  it  is  richer 
than  on  the  mainland.  Dairy  farming  and  grazing  occupy  the  atten- 
tion of  the  principal  portion  of  the  agricultural  class. 


276  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

In  1869,  there  were  in  the  State  335,128  acres  of  improved  land, 
and  186,096  acres  of  unimproved.  The  agricultural  wealth  of  the 

State  at  the  present  time  is  as  follows : 

I 

Cash  value  of  farms  (estimated), $25,000,000 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery 

(estimated), $850,000 

Number  of  horses, 9,120 

"           asses  and  mules, 20 

"           milch  cows, 23,180 

"           other  cattle, 21,420 

"           sheep, 34,320 

swine, 21,960 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $2,942,144 

Bushels  of  wheat, 8,600 

"           rye, 31,000 

"           Indian  com, 440,000 

"           oats,  . 250,000 

Irish  potatoes, 770,000 

barley, 55,000 

Pounds  of  wool,       90,699 

butter, 1,021,767 

"           cheese, 181,511 

Tons  of  hay, 71,000 

Value  of  orchard  products, $83,691 

market  garden  products,       ....  $146,661 

home-made  manufactures,   .     .    .  •  .  $7,824 

"           slaughtered  animals, $713,725 

COMMERCE. 

Rhode  Island  is  actively  engaged  in  commerce,  both  foreign  afid 
domestic.  During  the  year  1861,  the  total  value  of  its  exports  was 
$255,297,  and  of  the  imports  $543,652.  In  1862,  the  tonnage  owned 
in  the  State  was  41,671,  of  which  11,440  was  registered  tonnage, 
30,231  enrolled  licensed,  of  which  5064  was  steam  tonnage. 

MANUFACTURES. 

The  State  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures,  its  streams  fur- 
nishing water-power  unsurpassed  by  any  in  New  England.  The  first 
cotton-mill  ever  erected  in  this  country  was  built  in  Rhode  Island. 
By  the  census  of  1860,  there  were  1160  establishments  in  the  State 
devoted  to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  They  em- 
ployed 33,200  hands,  and  a  capital  of  $23,300,000,  consumed  raw 
material  worth  $23,400,000,  and  yielded  an  annual  product  of  $47,- 
500,000.  There  were  135  cotton  factories,  employing  5474  male, 
and  6615  female  hands,  and  a  capital  of  $11,500,000,  consuming  raw 


RHODE    ISLAND.  277 

material  worth  $5,281,000,  and  returning  an  annual  product  of  $12,- 
258,657.  There  were  131  woollen  factories,  employing  2483  male, 
and  1568  female  hands,  and  a  capital  of  $2,986,000,  consuming  raw 
material  worth  $3,920,155,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $6,- 
599,280.  The  other  manufactures  were  as  follows : 

Value  of  steam  engines  and  machinery,       .    .     .  $1,068,825 

."         agricultural  implements, 117,845 

"         sawed  and  planed  lumber, 170,000 

flour,  .    .     .    . ,    .  510,000 

"         sewing  machines, 90,000 

"         boots  and  shoes, 315,959 

"          furniture, 217,472 

"         jewelry,  silver  ware,  etc., 3,006,678 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1870,  there  were  152  miles  of  railroad  completed  in  the  State 
of  Rhode  Island,  which  had  been  constructed  and  equipped  at  a  cost 
of  $5,011,000.  Providence  and  Newport  have  railway  communica- 
tion with  Boston  and  New  York,  and  the  principal  cities  of  the 
Union.  Railroads  also  connect  the  principal  towns  of  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

There  is  a  permanent  school  fund  which  amounts  to  over  $420,000. 
The  public  schools  are  tinder  the  general  supervision  of  the  State 
Superintendents  of  Public  Instruction,  and  are  immediately  in  charge 
of  the  local  school  committees,  who  perform  the  duties  already 
explained  in  connection  with  the  committees  of f  the  other  States. 
There  was  a  Normal  School  in  operation  until  1865,  but  it  was 
abolished  in  that  year.  Efforts  are  now  being  made  to  revive  it,  and 
in  the  meantime  the  State  provides  for  the  education  of  "teachers  in 
certain  Academies. 

There  are  about  487  public  schools  in  the  State.  The  atten- 
dance is  as  follows :  in  the  summer,  24,953  pupils ;  in  the  winter, 
30,780;  average  summer  attendance,  19,972;  average  winter*  atten- 
dance, 23,720. 

The  only  college  in  the  State  is  Brown  University,  founded  in  1764. 
It  has  schools  of  agriculture  and  science  connected  with  it,  and  is  in  a 
flourishing  condition.  There  are,  also,  a  few  academies  in  prosperous 
condition. 

In  1870,  there  were  in  Rhode  Island  759  libraries,  containing 
693,387  volumes — over  300  being  public  libraries. 


278  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

There  were,  in  the  same  year,  5  daily,  1  semi- weekly,  19  weekly- 
newspapers,  and  1  monthly  periodical,  published  in  this  State.  Their 
aggregate  annual  circulation  was  5,289,280  copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Prison  is  located  at  Providence.  It  is  provided  witvh  a 
library,  and  religious  services  are  held  regularly  in  the  chapel.  The 
number  of  convicts  in  prison,  in  1868,  was  59. 

The  Reform  School  at  Providence,  is  not  a  State  institution,  though 
the  Legislature  makes  a  liberal  donation  to  it  for  board  of  inmatc.s 
sent  there  from  localities  outside  of  Providence.  It  receives  both 
sexes ;  and  after  educating  them,  provides  for  their  establishment  in 
some  useful  trade. 

Rhode  Island  has  no  public  asylum  for  the  insane.  Patients  are 
maintained  at  the  expense  of  the  State  in  the  Butler  Asylum,  at  Provi- 
dence, and  in  the  State  Lunatic  Asylums  of  Massachusetts  and  Ver- 
mont. Patients  are  also  supported  by  Rhode  Island  in  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  Asylum  at  Hartford,  Conn.,  and  in  the  Perkins  Institution 
for  the  Blind,  at  Boston. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

The  total,  value  of  church  property  in  1870,  was  $4,117,200.  There 
were  283  churches  in  the  State,  in  the  same  year. 

FINANCES. 

The  State  debt,  in  1870,  amounted  to  §2,927,500.  The  receipts 
of  the  Treasury  for  the  year  1868  were  $397,736,  and  the  expendi- 
tures $257,817,  leaving  a  balance  of  $139,919.  The  State  debt  is  due 
entirely  on  account  of  the  late  war. 

In  1868,  there  were  62  National  Banks  in  Rhode  Island,  with  an 
aggregate  capital  of  $20,364,800. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  citizen,  who  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  in 
the  town  six  months,  and  who  owns  real  estate  worth  $134,  or  rents 
§7  per  annum,  and  every  native  male  citizen,  twenty-one  years  old, 
who  has  resided  in  the  State  two  years,  and  six  months  in  the  town, 
who  is  duly  registered,  and  has  paid  a  tax  of  $1,  or  done  militia 
duty  within  the  year,  is  entitled  to  vote. 


RHODE    ISLAND.  2T9 

The  Government  of  the  State  is  confided  to  a  Governor,  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  a  Legislature,  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  and  Attorney- 
General,  who  are  chosen  annually  by  the  people  on  the  first  Wednes- 
day of  April,  and  hold  office  for  one  year,  commencing  from  the  last 
Tuesday  in  May. 

The  Senate  consists  of  the  Lieutenaut-Governor  and  one  member 
from  each  of  the  34  towns  of  the  State,  and  is  presided  over  by  the 
Governor.  The  House  of  Representatives  consists  of  72  members. 
The  Legislature  meets  regularly  at  Newport  on  the  last  Tuesday  in 
May,  and  holds  an  adjourned  session  at  Providence,  the  next  January. 

The  judiciary  is  comprised  of  a  Supreme  Court,  consisting  of  a 
Chief  Justice,  and  three  Associate  Justices.  It  has  exclusive  power 
to  try  all  indictments  for  crimes  for  which  the  penalty  is  imprison- 
ment for  life. 

A  Court  of  Common  Pleas  is  held  in  each  county,  by  one  of  the 
Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  at  stated  times.  The  capitals  of  the 
State  are  Providence  and  Newport. 

For  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  5  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Rhode  Island  was  first  settled  in  1636,  by  Roger  Williams  and 
five  associates,  who  had  been  driven  out  of  Massachusetts  for  express- 
ing opinions,  upon  political  and  religious  matters,  adverse  to  those 
entertained  by  the  magistrates  of  the  Bay  Colony.  They  fixed  their 
abode  at  the  head  of  Narraganset  Bay,  and  called  the  name  of  their 
settlement  Providence,  "  in  grateful  acknowledgment  of  God's  merci- 
ful providence  to  him  (Williams)  in  his  distress."  This  colony  was 
planted  upon  the  basis  of  entire  freedom  in  religious  opinions  and 
utterances.  In  1637,  William  Coddington  and  18  others,  having  been 
banished  from  Massachusetts,  for  their  religious  opinions,  joined  Wil- 
liams, and,  by  his  advice,  purchased  the  island  of  Aquetneck  (Rhode 
Island)  from  the  Indians,  and  settled  upon  it,  founding  Newport  and 
Portsmouth.  A  third  settlement  was  made  at  Warwick,  in  1642,  and 
all  three  settlements  began  and  continued  to  receive  fresh  accessions 
from  the  Bay  Colony.  In  1642,  Williams  went  to  England,  and  the 
next  year  secured  a  patent  for  the  United  Government  of  Providence, 
Newport,  and  Portsmouth,  but  the  patent  was  not  accepted  until  1647. 
It  continued  in  force  until  1663,  when  the  province  was  reorganized 
under  a  new  charter,  granted  by  Charles  II.,  which  formally  estab- 
lished the  colony  of  "  Rhode  Island  and  Providence  Plantations. " 


280 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


COAST  FISHING. 

This  charter  continued  to  be  the  sole  Constitution  of  Rhode  Island 
until  the  year  1842,  when  the  present  Constitution  was  adopted. 

The  colony  continued  to  grow  and  prosper,  but  suffered  severely  at 
the  hands  of  the  savages  during  King  Philip's  war,  in  which  struggle 
Providence  was  burned,  as  were  many  houses  in  other  parts  of  the 
province.  Philip's  principal  stronghold  was  in  this  State,  in  the 
swamp  near  Mount  Hope.  He  was  killed  there  in  August,  1676. 
The  great  battle  which  destroyed  the  Narragansets  as  a  nation,  took 
place  in  a  swamp  in  the  southern  part  of  this  State.  Rhode  Island 
was  opposed  to  the  policy  of  exterminating  the  Indians,  upon  which 
Connecticut  and  Massachusetts  had  decided,  and  was  not  even  con- 
sulted in  regard  to  the  war  by  those  colonies. 

In  1686,  Sir  Edmund  Andros  was  appointed  Governor-General  of 
New  England.  One  of  his  first  acts  was  to  abrogate  the  charter  of 
Rhode  Island,  and  reduce  the  province  to  a  mere  county,  which  he 
governed  by  his  own  creatures.  Upon  his  downfall,  the  magistrates 
reorganized  the  colonial  government  under  the  charter. 

Rhode  Island  bore  a  prominent  part  in  the  various  wars  with  the 
French  in  America.  Her  troops  distinguished  themselves  in  the 
attacks  upon  Louisburg,  Cape  Breton,  Crown  Point,  and  Oswego,  and 


RHODE    ISLAND.  281 

in  the  various  expeditions  against  Canada.  In  1756,  there  were  50 
privateers,  manned  by  over  1500  men,  belonging  to  this  colony,  and 
at  sea.  They  were  employed  along  the  coast  and  in  the  West  Indies, 
where  they  inflicted  considerable  damage  upon  the  commerce  of 
France. 

The  colony  was  warm  in  its  resistance  of  the  injustice  of  Great 
Britain,  and  gave  a  liberal  support  to  the  Revolution.  Privateers 
were  sent  out  from,  and  government  cruisers  equipped  in  the  ports 
of  this  State,  and  a  full  complement  of  men  was  furnished  to  the  con- 
tinental army.  General  Greene,  of  the  army,  and  Captains  "VVhipple 
and  Talbot,  of  the  navy,  were  natives  of  Rhode  Island.  The  harbors 
along  the  Narraganset  Bay  were  of  the  greatest  importance  to  the 
colonial  cause  at  the  outset  of  the  struggle.  In  December,  1776,  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  the  British  commander,  occupied  the  island  of  Rhode 
Island,  and  held  Newport  for  several  years,  during  which  time  he 
kept  the  greater  part  of  the  State  in  a  continual  terror.  In  the  fall 
of  \  778,  an  unsuccessful  effort  was  made  by  an  American  army,  aided 
by  the  French  fleet  under  Count  de  Grasse,  to  drive  the  enemy  away. 
Late  in  1779,  Clinton  evacuated  Newport,  and  concentrated  his  forces 
at  New  York,  and  the  next  year  the  fleet  and  army  of  Count  de  Ro- 
chambeau  reached  Newport  from  France. 

Rhode  Island  was  the  last  of  the  13  original  States  to  ratify  the 
Federal  Constitution,  and  was  not  admitted  into  the  Union  until  the 
29th  of  May,  1790. 

The  victory  on  Lake  Erie  in  1812,  was  won  by  a  Rhode  Island 
Commander  (Oliver  H.  Perry),  whose  force  was  principally  made  up 
of  Rhode  Island  seamen. 

In  1842,  a  change  in  the  Constitution  of  the  State  having  become 
desirable,  a  portion  of  the  people,  known  as  the  "  suffrage  party," 
illegally  framed  a  new  constitution,  and  proceeded  to  elect  a  legisla- 
ture and  Governor,  and  to  make  laws  for  the  State.  They  were  led 
by  Thomas  W.  Dorr,  their  pretended  governor,  and  endeavored  to 
establish  their  authority  by  force  of  arms.  They  were  dispersed  by 
the  State  troops.  The  proper  authorities  then  summoned  a  conven- 
tion. It  met  in  September,  1842,  and  adopted  the  present  Consti- 
tution of  the  State,  which  was  ratified  by  the  almost  unanimous  vote 
of  the  people  in  1 843. 

During  the  late  war,  Rhode  Island  contributed  25,355  men  to  the 
military  pervice  of  the  Union. 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


NAIIKAGANSET    BAY. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  cities  and  towns  of  importance,  besides  the  capitals,  are,  Smith- 
field,  North  Providence,  Warwick,  Bristol,  South  Kingston,  Coventry, 
East  Greenwich,  and  Pawtucket. 

PROVIDENCE, 

In  Providence  county,  is  the  largest  city,  and  one  of  the  capitals  of 
the  State.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  Narraganset 
Bay,  43  miles  south-southwest  of  Boston. 

"  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  New  England,  and  is  sur- 
passed only  by  Boston  in  wealth  and  population.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  northern  arm  of  the  Narraganset  Bay,  called  Provi- 
dence River.  It  is  an  ancient  town,  dating  as  far  back  as  1636 — 
when  its  founder,  Roger  Williams,  driven  from  the  domain  of  Massa- 
chusetts, sought  here  that  religious  liberty  which  was  denied  him 
elsewhere. 

"  This  city  makes  a  charming  picture  seen  from  the  approach  by 


RHODE    ISLAND.  283 

the  beautiful  waters  of  the  Narraganset,  which  it  encircles  on  the 
north  by  its  business  quarter,  rising  beyond  and  rather  abruptly  to  a 
lofty  terrace,  where  the  quiet  and  gratefully  shaded  streets  are  filled 
with  dainty  cottages  and  handsome  mansions.  Providence  was  once 
a  very  important  commercial  depot,  its  rich  ships  crossing  all  seas,  and 
at  the  present  day  the  city  is  equally  distinguished  for  its  manufac- 
turing and  commercial  enterprise.  In  the  former  department  of  hu- 
man achievement  it  early  took  the  lead,  which  it  still  keeps,  the  first 
cotton-mill  which  was  built  in  America  being  still  in  use,  in  its  sub- 
urban village  of  Pawtucket,  and  some  of  the  heaviest  mills  and  print- 
works of  the  Union  being  now  in  operation  within  its  limits.  It  has 
also  extensive  manufactories  of  machinery  and  jewelry.  The  work- 
shops of  the  American  Screw  Company  are  the  best  appointed  of  their 
kind  in  the  country.  The  total  capital  invested  here  in  manufactures 
is  upwards  of  $16,000,000. 

"  Providence  is  the  seat  of  Brown  University,  one  of  the  best  educa- 
tional establishments  in  America.  It  was  founded  in  Warren,  Rhode 
Island,  in  1764,  and.  removed  to  Providence  in  1770.  Its  library  is 
very  large  and  valuable,  and  is  remarkably  rich  in  rare  and  costly 
works. 

"  Rhode  Island  Hospital,  now  progressing  towards  completion  in  the 
southwestern  suburb,  will  be  one  of  the  finest  structures  in  the  State. 
The  entire  cost,  including  grounds,  will  exceed  a  quarter  million  of 
dollars. 

"The  Athenaeum  has  a  fine  reading-room,  and  a  collection  of  29,000 
books.  The  Providence  Historical  Society,  incorporated  1822,  has  a 
library  of  4000  volumes.  The  Butler  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  upon 
the  banks  of  Seekonk  River,  is  an  admirable  institution,  occupying 
large  and  imposing  edifices.  In  the  same  part  of  the  city,  and  lying 
also  upon  the  Seekonk  River,  is  the  Swan  Point  Cemetery,  a  spot  of 
great  rural  beauty.  There  are  upwards  of  60  public  schools  in  Provi- 
dence, in  which  instruction  is  given  to  between  eight  and  nine  thou- 
sand pupils.  The  Dexter  Asylum  for  the  Poor  stands  upon  an  elevated 
range  of  land  east  of  the  river.  In  the  same  vicinage  is  the  yearly 
meeting  boarding-school,  belonging  to  the  Society  of  Friends.  The 
Reform  School  occupies  the  large  mansion,  in  the  southeast  part  of  the 
city,  formerly  known  as  the  Tockwotton  House.  The  Home  for  Aged 
Women  and  the  Children's  Friend  Society  are  worthy  a  visit.  The 
Custom-House  (Post-Office,  and  United  States  Courts)  is  a  handsome 
granite  structure,  and  one  of  the  principal  architectural  ornaments  of 


284  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  city.  The  railroad  depot,  some  of  the  banks,  and  many  of  the 
churches  of  Providence,  are  imposing  structures.  The  railways  di- 
verging from  Providence,  are  the  Providence  and  Worcester,  43  miles, 
to  Worcester,  Mass. ;  Hartford,  Providence  and  Fishkill,  123  miles,  to 
Waterbury,  Conn. ;  Boston  and  Providence,  and  Stonington  and  Provi- 
dence, 62  miles,  to  New  London ;  and  the  Providence,  Warren  and  Bris- 
tol. Upon  the  immediate  edge  of  the  city,  on  the  shore  of  a  charming 
bay  in  the  Seekonk  River,  stands  the  famous  What  Cheer  Rock,  where 
the  founder  of  the  city,  Roger  Williams,  landed  from  the  Massachu- 
setts side,  to  make  the  first  settlement  here. 

"At  Hunt's  Mill,  3  or  4  miles  distant,  is  a  beautiful  brook  with  a 
picturesque  little  cascade,  a  drive  to  which  is  among  the  morning  or 
evening  pleasures  of  the  Providence  people  and  their  guests.  Vue  de 
1'Eau  is  the  name  of  a  picturesque  and  spacious  summer  hotel,  perched 
upon  a  high  terrace  4  miles  below  the  city,  overlooking  the  bay  and 
its  beauties  for  many  miles  around. 

"  Gaspee  Point,  below,  upon  the  opposite  shore  of  the  Narraganset, 
was  the  scene  of  an  exploit  during  the  Revolution.  Some  citizens  of 
Providence,  after  adroitly  beguiling  an  obnoxious  British  revenue 
craft  upon  the  treacherous  bar,  stole  down  by  boats  in  the  night  and 
settled  her  business  by  burning  her  to  the  water's  edge."  * 

Providence  contains  many  handsome  buildings,  both  public  and 
private.  There  are  54  churches,  35  banks,  27  public  schools,  and 
7  or  8  newspaper  establishments  in  the  city.  It  is  supplied  with 
water,  and  lighted  with  gas.  Street  railways  connect  the  prominent 
points. 

Providence  is  the  centre  of  an  important  commerce  with  the  At- 
lantic coast  of  the  Union,  and  with  foreign  countries.  Manufactures 
are  also  extensively  carried  on  here.  Jewelry  is  made  in  great  quan- 
tities, sometimes  amounting  to  $3,000,000  per  annum.  Cotton  and 
woollen  goods,  furniture  and  wooden  ware,  iron  goods,  machinery  of 
various  kinds,  paper,  boots  and  shoes,  carriages,  and  locomotives,  are 
the  principal  articles.  In  1864,  the  value  of  the  manufactures  of 
Providence  was  $30,638,177.  The  population  of  the  city  is  68,906, 
which  makes  it  the  second  city  in  New  England. 

NEWPORT, 

In  Newport  county,  28  miles  southeast  of  Providence,  is  one  of  the 
capitals  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  the  island 

*  Hand-Book  of  American  Travel. 


RHODE    ISLAND. 


285 


NEWPORT. 

of  Rhode  Island,  about  5  miles  from  the  sea.  The  town  is  located  on 
the  slope  of  a  slight  hill  facing  the  harbor,  and  is,  in  the  main,  hand- 
somely built,  containing  a  number  of  fine  public  buildings  and  private 
residences.  The  principal  buildings  are  the  State  House,  the  Custom 
House,  Market  House,  and  the  Redwood  Library,  a  fine  Doric  building 
containing  about  1500  volumes,  and  a  number  of  valuable  busts  and 
paintings.  There  are  about  16  churches,  7  banks,  2  newspaper  offices, 
and  a  number  of  manufacturing  establishments  in  Newport.  The 
city  is  well  laid  off,  and  is  lighted  with  gas.  It  has-  a  population 
of  12,521. 

The  hotels  are  its  principal  attraction.  There  are  several  first-class 
establishments,  capable  of  accommodating  several  thousand  visitors. 
Its  admirable  climate  and  situation  have  made  Newport  one  of  the 
most  popular  seaside  resorts  in  the  Union.  The  whole  southern  part 
of  the  island  is  now  dotted  with  cottages  and  villas,  many  of  them 
very  handsome,  belonging  to  wealthy  citizens  of  various  parts  of  the 
country,  who  pass  the  summer  months  here. 

"  The  facilities  for  surf-bathing  at  Newport  are  not  excelled  by  any 
place  in  this  country.  There  are  three  fine  beaches,  called  Easton's, 
Sachuest's,  and  Smith's.  Easton's  is  the  one  generally  used  by  the 
majority ;  and  it  is  so  situated  that  there  is  no  danger  to  the  bathers 


286  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

from  under-currents,  while  the  breakers  follow  each  other  in  majestic 
succession.  This  beach  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  principal  hotels, 
and  public  conveyances  ply  regularly  to  and  fro. 

"The  drives  about  Newport  are  excellent.  In  1867,  a  new  one 
was  made  by  the  city  authorities,  commencing  at  Bellevue  avenue, 
near  the  Ocean  House,  and  continuing  south  2  miles ;  thence  west 
3  miles,  along  the  shore ;  thence  north  1  mile ;  and  thence  northeast 
to  Bellevue  avenue,  3  miles.  The  entire  drive  is  10  miles  long,  80 
feet  wide,  and  is  macadamized.  It  is  pronounced  the  best  one  in  the 
country,  and  some  of  the  finest  residences  in  the  city  are  located  on  it. 
An  unobstructed  view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean  is  afforded  for  nearly 
the  entire  length  of  this  road. 

"  Near  Sachuest  Beach,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Bluff,  is  a 
dark  chasm  called  Purgatory.  By  actual  measurement,  the  chasm  is 
160  feet  in  length;  from  8  to  14  feet  wide  at  the  top;  from  2  to  24 
feet  wide  at  the  bottom ;  50  feet  deep  at  the  outer  edge ;  and  10  feet 
of  water  at  low  tide.  Near  by  are  the  Hanging  Rocks,  within  whose 
shadow  it  is  said  that  Bishop  Berkeley  wrote  his  "  Minute  Philosopher." 
The  Glen  and  the  Spouting  Cave  are  charming  places  to  ride  to,  when 
the  weather  invites.  Lily  Pond,  the  largest  sheet  of  spring  water  on 
the  island,  is  easily  reached  from  Spouting  Cave.  The  waters  of  the 
pond  swarm  with  perch. 

"  The  city  of  Newport  is  so  ancient,  and  once  so  prominent  a  town, 
that  it  would  be  of  interest  to  the  visitor,  wholly  apart  from  its  present 
fashionable  relations.  Indeed,  Newport  may  be  said  properly  to  be 
two  places — an  old  metropolis,  and  a  watering-place ;  and,  like  Que- 
bec reversed,  it  has  its  upper,  or  new  town,  and  its  lower,  or  old  town. 
The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  and  deepest  in  the  world.  The  entrance 
to  it  is  2  miles  in  width,  29  fathoms  in  depth,  and  in  only  one  instance 
has  it  been  closed  by  ice  since  the  first  settlement.  As  late  as  1769, 
the  city  exceeded  New  York  in  the  extent  of  her  foreign  and  domestic 
commerce.  In  the  Revolution,  the  British  long  held  possession  of 
the  place,  during  which  time  (till  1797)  the  population  decreased  from 
12,000  to  4000.  Among  the  interesting  relics  to  be  found  in  the 
town,  are  :  Franklin's  printing-press,  imported  by  James  Franklin  in 
1720.  It  is  in  the  office  of  the  Newport  Mercury,  established  in  1758. 
Upon  this  press  the  first  newspaper  issued  (1732)  was  printed.  The 
Chair  of  State,  in  which  Benedict  Arnold  sat  at  the  reception  of  the 
charter  in  1663,  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Gould  family.  The  first 
Baptist  Church,  founded  in  1638,  and  claimed  as  the  oldest  church  in 
Rhode  Isla'^1.  ;s  worthy  a 


RHODE    ISLAND.  287 

"  Newport  was  the  birthplace  of  the  gifted  miniature  painter  Mai- 
bone,  and  Gilbert  Stuart's  place  of  nativity  may  be  seen  in  Narra- 
ganset,  across  the  bay.  Stuart  made  two  copies  of  his  great  Wash- 
ington picture  for  Rhode  Island,  one  of  which  may  be  seen  in  the 
State  House  at  Newport,  and  the  other  in  that  at  Providence. 

"  The  old  Stone  Mill,  in  Touro  Park,  opposite  the  Atlantic  House, 
is  a  curiosity,  and  is  tenderly  cared  for  by  the  city  authorities.  It  is 
sometimes  called  the  Round  Tower.  The  origin  and  early  history  of 
this  '  old  mill '  is  a  mystery,  and  has  led  to  many  fruitless  conjec- 
tures. Some  antiquarians  claim  for  it  the  honor  of  having  afforded  a 
secure  shelter  to  the  Norsemen,  who,  they  say,  built  it  as  a  lookout 
and  a  tower  of  defence;  but  the  modern  observers  deny  it  this  envia- 
ble renown,  and  maintain  that  it  was  built  by  Governor  Benedict  Ar- 
nold, the  first  charter  governor  of  the  colony,  who  owned  the  property 
at  the  time  of  his  death,  and  calls  it  in  his  will  '  my  stone-built  wind- 
mill/ Redwood  Library,  near  the  opera-house,  established  by  Abra- 
ham Redwood  in  1750,  contains  one  of  the  very  best  collections  of 
paintings,  choice  books,  and  statuary  in  the  country.  The  Jewish 
Synagogue,  on  Touro  street,  was  built  in  1672,  and  up  to  the  Revolu- 
tionary war  was  regularly  opened  for  worship,  and  was  the  only  place 
in  New  England  where  Hebrew  was  chanted  and  read  weekly.  There 
were  many  families  of  wealthy  and  influential  Jews  in  Newport  at 
that  time;  now  there  are  none.  Abraham  Touro  left  $20,000  iu 
charge  of  the  town,authorities,  the  interest  to  be  expended  in  keeping 
the  synagogue  and  grounds,  and  street  leading  to  it,  in  repair ;  and 
the  wishes  of  the  donor  have  been  carefully  complied  with.  Besides 
these  places,  the  visitor  should  see  the  Perry  Monument,  Commodore 
Perry's  house,  built  in  1763,  and  long  known  as  the  'Granary;'  the 
fortifications  in  the  harbor,  Fort  Adams,  Fort  Wolcott,  Fort  Brown, 
and  the  Dumplings.  Fort  Adams,  on  Brenton  Point,  is  one  of  the 
largest  works  in  the  United  States,  mounting  460  guns."  * 

The  harbor  of  Newport  is  unsurpassed  by  any  in  the  world.  It  is 
deep  and  safe,  and  may  be  entered  at  all  times  without  a  pilot.  It  is 
defended  by  Fort  Wolcott,  on  Goat  Island,  and  Fort  Adams,  a  power- 
ful work  on  Brenton's  Point,  a  mile  and  a  half  southwest  of  the  city. 
This  fine  harbor  formerly  made  Newport  one  of  the  most  important 
commercial  cities  of  the  Union,  and  until  the  dawn  of  the  Revolution 
it  was  the  rival  of  Boston  and  New  York.  Now  it  has  but  a  small 
trade,  the  principal  part  of  which  is  with  the  towns  along  the  coast. 

*  Book  of  Seaside  Kesorts. 


288  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

It  has  regular  steamboat  communication  with  Providence  and  New 
York,  and  is  connected  with  Boston  by  a  railroad. 

Newport  was  occupied  by  the  British  during  several  years  of  the 
Revolution.  They  quartered  8000  troops  upon  the  town,  destroyed 
480  houses,  robbed  the  library,  which  was  then  the  finest  in  America, 
and  carried  off  the  town  records. 

In  the  spring  of  1776,  Admiral  Wallace  was  driven  out  of  the  harbor  of  New- 
port, by  a  vigorous  attack,  assisted  by  the  Providence  troops.  But  in  December 
of  the  same  year  arrived  the  British  fleet  under  Sir  Peter  Parker.  It  sailed  up 
the  West  Passage,  crossed  from  the  north  point  of  Conanic.pt,  and  landed  an 
army  of  8000  or  10,000  English  and  Hessians,  commanded  by  General  Clinton 
nnd  Lord  Percy,  in  Middletown,  about  five  miles  from  Newport.  The  army  im- 
mediately began  to  plunder,  and  was  quartered  upon  the  inhabitants  until  May, 
1777,  when  Clinton  and  Percy,  with  a  large  party  left  for  New  York,  and  General 
Prescott  succeeded  to  the  command.  He  made  himself  obnoxious  by  petty 
tyranny,  but  Major  Barton  revenged  the  injuries  of  the  island  by  a  feat  of  memo- 
rable ingenuity  and  valor. 

Tarton  was  on  duty  with  the  Rhode  Island  line,  and  after  the  capture  of  Gen- 
eral Lee,  in  November,  1776,  he  considered  how  he  might  retort  upon  the  enemy, 
and  resolved  to  capture  Prescott.  When  the  English  landed,  Major  Barton  was 
stationed  at  Tiverton,  upon  the  mainland,  not  far  from  the  shore  of  Rhode  Island. 
He  waited  for  several  months,  but  found  no  fit  opportunity,  until  a  British  de- 
serter was  brought  into  his  quarters.  Barton  ascertained  from  him  the  situation 
of  Prescott' s  headquarters,  and  all  the  necessary  details,  and  prepared  to  put  his 
plan  immediately  into  execution.  He  and  his  men  were  new  to  the  service,  and 
failure  was  permanent  disgrace,  as  he  well  knew  ;  but  without  a  moment's  hesita- 
tion he  selected  his  companions  from  the  officers,  told  them  the  scope  of  the  un- 
dertaking, and  engaged  their  confidence  and  sympathy.  Five  whale-boats  were 
procured  and  fitted.  At  the  last  moment  Barton  addressed  his  soldiers,  and  said 
that  he  wished  the  voluntary  assistance  of  about  40  men.  The  whole  regiment 
advanced,  and  declared  itself  ready  to  accompany  him.  On  the  4th  of  July,  1777, 
the  party  left  Tiverton,  and  crossed  to  the  western  shore  of  the  bay.  At  9  o'clock 
on  the  evening  of  the  Oth  of  July,  they  left  Warwick  Neck  in  the  whale-boats. 
That  of  Major  Barton  went  in  front,  and  was  distinguished  from  the  others  by  a 
handkerchief  tied  to  a  pole  in  the  stern.  The  little  fleet  dropped  silently  down 
the  bay,  between  the  islands  of  Patience  and  Prudence.  In  the  stillness  of  the 
night  they  heard  the  drowsy  call  of  "All's  well,"  from  the  sentinels  on  the 
English  ships,  and  as  they  touched  the  shore  of  Rhode  Island  a  sound  as  of  run- 
ning horses  was  heard.  It  was  too  late  to  be  alarmed,  and  the  party  landed  in 
silence,  Major  Barton  detailing  one  man  to  remain  in  each  boat.  They  landed 
about  a  mile  from  the  headquarters  of  General  Prescott,  and  crept  toward  it  in 
five  divisions.  There  were  three  doors  to  the  house — on  the  south,  the  east,  and 
the  west.  One  division  was  to  advance  upon  each  door,  the  fourth  was  to  guard 
the  road,  and  the  fifth  to  act  as  a  reserve. 

As  they  reached  the  house  they  were  challenged  by  the  sentinel. 

"Friends,"  said  Barton. 

"Advance  and  give  the  countersign,"  was  the  reply. 

"  D — n  you,  we  have  no  countersign.    Have  you  seen'any  deserters  to-night  ?" 


RHODE    ISLAND.  289 

said  Barton,  advancing  upon  the  sentry,  seizing  his  musket,  telling  him  he  was 
a  prisoner,  and  threatening  him  with  instant  death  if  he  betrayed  them  by  making 
a  noise.  The  sentry  said  that  the  general  was  in  the  house.  Each  division  had 
now  reached  its  station  :  the  doors  were  forced,  and  the  soldiers  rushed  up  stairs 
to  the  chamber  of  the  host.  He  was  speechless  with  fright,  and  pointed  to  the 
room  below  as  that  of  the  general.  Making  sure  of  the  host,  they  returned  into 
the  entry,  where  Barton  ordered  them  to  fire  the  house  at  the  four  corners,  as  he 
meant  to  have  the  general,  alive  or  dead.  But  at  this  moment,  aroused  by  the 
noise,  Prescott  called  to  know  what  was  the  matter.  The  soldiers  ran  down 
stairs  and  entered  his  room,  where  Barton  saw  a  man  sitting  on  the  side  of 
the  bed. 

"  Are  you  General  Prescott  ?"  demanded  Barton. 

"I  am,  sir,"  replied  the  officer. 

"You  are  my  prisoner,"  returned  Barton. 

*'I  acknowledge  it,  sir,"  said  the  general. 

Major  Barton  then  told  him  that  he  must  go  with  them,  and  to  his  request  that 
he  might  be  allowed  to  dress  himself,  replied  that  he  was  very  sorry  that  his  busi- 
ness required  great  dispatch,  and  the  general  was  obliged  to  hurry  off  as  he  was. 
Prcscott's  aid,  Major  Barrington,  had  leaped  out  of  a  window  at  the  beginning 
of  the  fray,  and  had  landed  safely  in  the  midst  of  the  guard  of  reserve.  Of  the 
three  prisoners,  only  the  sentinel  had  -his  shoes  on  ;  and  as  the  party  hurried 
across  the  field  of  rye-stubble  tangled  with  blackberry  bushes,  the  general's  feet 
and  legs,  as  also  those  of  Major  Barrington,  were  sorely  scratched.  But  the 
party  was  led  along  to  the  shore  as  directly  and  rapidly  as  possible,  and  reached 
their  boats  safely.  Barton  placed  the  prisoners  in  his  boat,  and  wrapping  his 
cloak  around  the  shivering  general,  he  ordered  the  little  fieet  to  put  off.  The 
alarm  was  given  from  the  shore  by  guns  and  rockets,  but  the  boats  darted  silently 
and  swiftly  out  of  danger.  General  Prescott  asked  if  Barton  •commanded,  and 
said  to  him : 

**  You  have  made  a  bold  push  to-night,"  and  expressed  the  hope  that  lie  should 
not  be  hurt. 

*'  Not  while  you  are  in  my  care,"  said  Barton. 

The  bay  was  in  a  wild  confusion  with  the  spreading  alarm;  but  straight  under 
the  bows  and  sterns  of  the  English  ships,  in  that  darkest  hour  preceding  dawn, 
the  prisoner  was  safely  rowed,  and  morning  broke  upon  the  expedition  arriving 
under  the  guns  of  its  own  batteries.  General  Prescott  was  afterwards  exchanged 
for  General  Lee. 

MISCELLANY. 

In  1772,  the  famous  seizure  of  the  British  schooner  Gaspee  occurred  in  Narra- 
ganset  Bay.  The  following  account  of  the  occurrence  was  written  by  Colonel 
Ephraim  Bowen,  of  Providence,  who  was  an  actor  in  the  scene : 

In  the  year  1772,  the  British  Government  had  stationed  at  Newport,  Rhode 
Island,  a  sloop  of  war,  with  her  tender,  the  schooner  called  the  Gaspee,  of  eight 
guns,  commanded  by  William  Duddingston,  a  lieutenant  in  the  British  navy,  ibr 
the  purpose  of  preventing  the  clandestine  landing  of  articles  subject  to  the  pay- 
ment of  duty.  The  captain  of  this  schooner  made  it  his  practice  to  stop  and 
board  all  vessels  entering  or  leaving  the  ports  of  Rhode  Island,  or  leaving  New- 
port for  Providence. 
19 


290  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

On  the  17tli  of  June,  1772,  Captain  Thomas  Lindsay  left  Newport,  in  his 
packet,  for  Providence,  about  noon,  with  the  wind  at  north  ;  and  soon  after,  the 
Gaspee  was  under  sail,  in  pursuit  of  Lindsay,  and  continued  the  chase  as  far  as 
Namcut  Point.  Lindsay  was  standing  easterly,  with  the  tide  on  the  ebb,  about 
two  hours,  when  he  hove  about  at  the  end  of  Namcut  Point,  and  stood  to  the 
westward  ;  and  Duddingston,  in  close  chase,  changed  his  course  and  ran  on  the 
point  near  its  end  and  grounded.  Lindsay  continued  in  his  course  up  the  river, 
and  arrived  at  Providence  about  sunset,  when  he  immediately  informed  Mr.  John 
Brown,  one  of  our  first  and  most  respectable  merchants,  of  the  situation  of  the 
Gasp6e.  Mr.  Brown  immediately  resolved  on  her  destruction  ;  and  he  forthwith 
directed  one  of  his  trusty  shipmasters  to  collect  eight  of  the  largest  long  boats  in 
the  harbor,  with  five  oars  to  each,  to  have  the  oar-locks  well  muffled  to  prevent 
noise,  and  to  place  them  at  Fenner's  wharf,  directly  opposite  to  the  dwelling  of 
Mr.  James-  Sabine. 

Soon  after  sunset,  a  man  passed  along  the  main  street,  beating  a  drum,  and 
informing  the  inhabitants  that  the  Gaspee  was  aground  on  Namcut  Point,  and 
inviting  those  persons  who  felt  a  disposition  to  go  and  destroy  that  troublesome 
vessel,  to  repair  in  the  evening  to  Mr.  James  Sabine's  house.  About  nine  o'clock 
I  took  my  father's  gun,  and  my  powder-horn  and  bullets,  and  went  to  Mr.  Sa- 
bine's,  and  found  it  full  of  people  ;  where  I  loaded  my  gun,  and  all  remained 
there  till  ten  o'clock,  some  casting  bullets  in  the  kitchen,  and  others  making  ar- 
rangements for  departure,  when  orders  were  given  to  cross  the  street  to  Fenner's 
wharf  and  embark,  which  soon  took  place,  and  a  sea-captain  acted  as  steersman 
of  each  boat,  of  whom  I  recollect  Captain  Abraham  Whipple,  Captain  John  B. 
Hopkins  (with  whom  I  embarked),  and  Captain  Benjamin  Dunn.  A  line  from 
right  to  left  was  soon  formed,  with  Captain  Whipple  on  the  right,  and  Captain 
Hopkins  on  the  right  of  the  left  wing.  The  party  thus  proceeded,  till  within 
about  sixty  yards  of  the  Gaspee,  when  a  sentinel  hailed,  "  Who  comes  there  ?  " 
No  answer.  He  hailed  again,  and  no  answer.  In  about  a  minute,  Duddingston 
mounted  the  starboard  gunwale,  in  his  shirt,  and  hailed,  "  Who  comes  there  ?  " 
No  answer.  He  hailed  again,  when  Captain  Whipple  answered  as  follows  :  "  I 
am  the  sheriff  of  the  county  of  Kent ;  I  have  got  a  warrant  to  apprehend  you  ;  so 
surrender,  d — n  you.'*  » 

I  took  my  seat  on  the  thwart,  near  the  larboard  row -lock,  with  my  gun  at  my 
right  side,  and  facing  forward.  As  soon  as  Duddingston  began  to  hail,  Joseph 
Bucklin,  who  was  standing  on  the  main  thwart  by  my  right  side,  said  to  me, 
"Ephe,  reach  me  your  gun,  and  I  can  kill  that  fellow."  I  reached  it  to  him 
accordingly,  when,  during  Captain  Whipple's  replying,  Bucklin  fired,  and  Dud- 
dingston fell ;  and  Bucklin  exclaimed,  "I  have  killed  the  rascal  !  "  In  less  than 
a  minute  after  Captain  Whipple's  answer,  the  boats  were  alongside  the  Gaspee, 
and  boarded  without  opposition.  The  men  on  deck  retreated  below,  as  Dud- 
dingston entered  the  cabin. 

As  it  was  discovered  that  he  was  wounded,  John  Mawney,  who  had,  for  two 
or  three  years,  been  studying  medicine  and  surgery,  was  ordered  to  go  into  the 
cabin  and  dress  Duddingston' s  wound,  and  I  was  directed  to  assist  him.  On  ex- 
amination, it  was  found  that  the  ball  took  effect  directly  below  the  navel.  Dud- 
dingston called  for  Mr.  Dickinson  to  produce  bandages  and  other  necessaries  for 
the  dressing  of  the  wound  ;  and,  when  this  was  done,  orders  were  given  to  the 
schooner's  company  to  collect  their  clothing  and  everything  belonging  to  them, 
and  to  put  them  into  the  boats,  as  all  of  them  were  to  be  sent  on  shore.  All  were 
soon  collected  and  put  on  board  of  the  boats,  including  one  of  our  boats. 


RHODE    ISLAND.  291 

They  departed  and  lauded  Duddingston  at  the  old  still-house  wharf  at  Pawtuxet, 
and  put  the  chief  into  the  house  of  Joseph  Rhodes.  Soon  after,  all  the  party  were 
ordered  to  depart,  leaving  one  boat  for  the  leaders  of  the  expedition,  who  soon 
set  the  vessel  on  fire,  which  consumed  her  to  the  water's  edge. 

The  names  of  the  most  conspicuous  actors  are  as  follows,  viz :  Mr.  John 
Brown,  Captain  Abraham  Whipple,  John  B.  Hopkins,  Benjamin  Dunn,  and 
five  others  whose  names  I  have  forgotten,  and  John  Mawney,  Benjamin  Page, 
Joseph  Bucklin,  and  Toupin  Smith,  my  youthful  companions,  all  of  whom  are 
dead — I  believe  every  man  of  the  party — excepting  myself;  and  my  age  is 
eighty-six  years,  this  twenty-ninth  day  of  August,  eighteen  hundred  and  thirty- 
nine. 


CONNECTICUT. 

Area, 4,674  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 460,147 

Population  in  1870, 537,454 

THE  State  of  Connecticut  lies  between  latitude  41°  and  42°  3'  N.,  and 
longitude  71°  55'  and  73°  50'  W. ;  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Mas- 
sachusetts, on  the  east  by  Rhode  Island,  on  the  south  by  Long  Island 
Sound,  and  on  the  west  by  New  York.  Its  extreme  length  from  east 
to  west  is  about  93  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  from  north  to  south 
68  miles.  It  is,  next  to  Rhode  Island  and  Delaware,  the  smallest 
State  in  the  Union. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  country  bordering  Long  Island  Sound  is  level,  but  a  great  part 
of  the  State  is  rugged  and  mountainous,  though  the  mountains,  as  they 
are  called,  are  little  more  than  high  hills.  In  the  eastern  part,  be- 
tween the  Connecticut  River  and  the  Rhode  Island  line,  is  a  ridge, 
supposed  to  be  the  extreme  prolongation  of  the  White  Mountains  of 
New  Hampshire.  The  western  part  is  crossed  by  an  extension  of  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  which  reach  almost  to  the  shore  of  the 
Sound.  This  range  consists  of  a  series  of  detached  peaks.  The  Talcet 
or  Greenwood  Range  passes  across  the  State  from  the  Massachusetts 
line  to  the  immediate  vicinity  of  New  Haven.  East  of  this  range  are 
the  Middletown  Mountains,  which  extend  southward  from  Hartford 
to  North  Branford,  east  of  New  Haven,  running  parallel  with  the 
Greenwood  .Range.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  State  there  is  a  small 
range  between  the  Green  and  the  Greenwood  Mountains.  Though  of  a 
moderate  elevation,  these  ranges  are  exceedingly  picturesque,  and  give 
a  peculiar  charm  to  the  scenery  of  the  State.  "  Most  of  the  ridges  are 
292 


CONNECTICUT. 


293 


VIEW  FROM  MOUNT   IIOLYOKE. 

parallel,  and  their  western  parts  generally  precipitous,  so  that  in  many 
places  the  country  seems  divided  by  stupendous  walls.  Immense 
masses  of  ruins  are  collected  at  their  feet.  These  consist  sometimes  of 
entire  cliffs  and  pillars  of  many  tons  weight,  which  are  thrown  off  by 
the  freezing  of  water  in  the  gullies,  and  often  fall  with  a  mighty  con- 
cussion into  the  valleys.  On  the  opposite  side  there  is  generally  a 
slope  covered  with  trees In  Meriden  is  a  natural  ice- 
house, in  a  narrow  defile,  between  ridges  of  greenstone.  The  defile  is 
choked  up  with  the  ruins  of  the  rocks  which  have  fallen  from  the 


294  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

ridges,  and  form  a  series  of  cavities  overgrown  with  trees,  and  strewn 
with  thick  beds  of  leaves.  The  ice  is  formed  in  the  cavities  of  these 
rocks,  and  remains  the  whole  year.  A  portion  of  it  melts  during 
summer,  causing  a  stream  of  cold  water  perpetually  to  flow  from  the 
spot.  The  space  between  the  mountains  is  called  Cat  Hollow,  and 
presents  the  most  wild  and  picturesque  scenery  in  the  State."  The 
principal  peaks  are  Mount  Tom,  near  Litchfield,  and  Bald  Mountain 
in  the  extreme  northern  part  of  the  State. 

The  entire  southern  border  is  washed  by  Long  Island  Sound,  into 
which  flow  the  principal  rivers  of  the  State.  There  are  several  good 
harbors  along  the  Sound,  of  which  New  London  is  the  best,  though 
New  Haven  Bay  is  the  largest. 

The  Connecticut  River  enters  the  State  from  Massachusetts,  and 
flows  through  it  into  Long  Island  Sound,  dividing  it  into  two  unequal 
parts.  It  is  navigable  for  a  distance  of  50  miles  for  vessels  drawing 
eight  feet  of  water,  and  much  higher  for  steamers.  The  scenery  of  the 
valley  of  this  stream  is  very  beautiful  in  many  places ;  Hartford, 
Middletown,.and  Haddam  are  the  principal  places  on  its  banks. 

The  Housatonic  River  flows  through  the  western  part  of  the  State 
into  the  Sound.  It  is  navigable  for  12  miles  for  small  vessels.  It 
rises  in  the  northern  part  of  Berkshire  county,  Mass.,  and  in  its  course 
through  Connecticut  receives  a  number  of  small  tributaries,  which 
drain  the  little  lakes  or  ponds,  which  are  quite  numerous  in  Litchfield 
county.  The  whole  region  through  which  it  flows  is  noted  for  the 
beauty  of  its  scenery,  and  the  healthfulness  of  its  climate.  It  is  a 
region  of  bold  hills  and  lovely  valleys,  through  which  the  merry  little 
streams  come  leaping  to  join  the  main  river.  The  falls  of  the  Housa- 
tonic, 67  miles  from  its  mouth,  are  60  feet  in  height,  and  are  among 
the  most  beautiful  in  America. 

The  Thames  River  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Quinebaug, 
Shetucket,  and  Yantic  rivers,  near  Norwich,  in  New  London  county, 
and  is  about  14  miles  long.  It  flows  southward  into  the  Sound.  At 
its  mouth  it  widens  into  the  fine  harbor  of  New  London,  which  is  the 
best  in  the  State.  It  is  navigable  for  its  entire  length.  Norwich  and 
New  London  are  its  principal  towns. 

Nearly  all  the  rivers  of  the  State  furnish  excellent  water-power. 

MINERALS. 

Connecticut  is  very  rich  in  mineral  deposits.  Granite  abounds,  and 
marble  of  an  excellent  quality  is  found.  The  chrysoberyl  and  the 


CONNECTICUT.  295 

precious  beryl  are  found  near  Haddam,  and  the  columbite  near  Middle- 
town,  Dr.  Frankfort,  of  Middletown,  thus  sums  up  the  mineral  re- 
sources of  the  State : 

"  The  State  of  Connecticut  may  be  geologically  divided  into  two 
large  fields,  the  first  of  which  is  composed  of  the  unstratified  and 
metamorphic  rocks,  and  the  other  of  those  secondary  strata  which, 
under  the  name  of  '  freestone/  are  so  extensively  quarried  in  different 
parts  of  the  State  for  building  purposes,  and  constitute  the  new  red 
sandstone  of  Lycll.  The  best  place  to  study  this  peculiar  formation  is 
near  Portland,  in  Middlesex  county.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  new  red 
sandstone,  are  to  be  found  in  nearly  every  part  of  the  State,  large 
dykes  of  trap,  which  protrude  and  traverse  it,  as  for  example,  at  Mer- 
iden.  This  gives  Connecticut  a  great  analogy  to  the  Lake  Superior 
copper  region,  in  which  large  veins  of  native  copper,  unequalled  as  yet 
in  any  other  part  of  the  world,  are  found  nearly  always  at  the  junction 
of  these  trapdykes  with  the  red  sandstone.  From  this  fact  we  might 
expect  that  in  Connecticut,  also  similar  deposits  of  copper  would  exist. 
In  several  instances  indeed,  the  vestiges  of  the  presence  of  such  have  been 
found  ;  as,  for  example,  near  New  Haven,  where  a  large  mass  of  native 
copper  was  discovered ;  and  also  near  Meriden,  where  ancient  excava- 
tions made  in  search  of  copper  may  be  seen.  The  State  is  very  rich  in 
mining  resources,  as  veins  of  the  different  metals  have  been  discovered, 
and  more  will  undoubtedly  be  found.  In  every  part  of  the  world, 
such  veins  are  chiefly  known  to  exist  where  the  metamorphic  strata 
are  injunction  with  the  secondary;  and  the  mineral  veins  of  Connec- 
ticut are  near  these  junctions,  of  which  a  great  many  may  be  found 
throughout  the  State.  The  following  is  a  brief  statement  of  the  differ- 
ent localities  in  which  valuable  minerals  are  known  to  exist  in  veins 
or  deposits.  Gold  has  been  found  in  small  quantities  in  Middle  Had- 
dam, Middlesex  county;  silver,  in  the  argentiferous  lead  ore  of  the 
Middletown  mines,  now  extensively  worked.  One  of  the  richest 
copper  mines  in  the  United  States  has  been  worked  in  Bristol,  Hart- 
ford county,  for  ten  years.  The  ores  found  here  are  chiefly  sulphurets. 
Copper  deposits  also  exist  near  Litchfield,  Simsbury,  Plymouth, 
Granby,  Farmington  and  Middletown.  Lead  occurs,  as  galena,  at  the 
mines  near  Middletown;  also  near  Wilton  and  Brookfield,  and  near 
Monroe,  Fairfield  county.  Iron  is  mined  at  Salisbury,  where  large 
furnaces  are  supplied  with  '  brown  hematite/  the  ore  chiefly  found  at 
the  mines.  Roxbury  furnishes  an  excellent  ore,  from  which  the  very 
best  of  steel  could  be  manufactured,  if  the  large  deposits  of  pure  spathic 


296  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

iron,  known  to  exist  there,  should  be  worked.  Bismuth  is  found  at 
different  places  in  the  town  of  Monroe.  The  only  vein  containing 
these  valuable  metals  (cobalt  and  nickel)  in  abundance  in  the  United 
States  is  in  the  town  of  Chatham,  where  at  present  extensive  mining 
operations  for  their  extraction  are  carried  on."* 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  severe  in  winter,  but  pleasant  in  summer,  owing  to 
the  cool  sea  breeze  which  mitigates  the  heat.  The  spring  comes  earlier 
than  in  the  other  New  England  States,  but  is  accompanied  by  keen 
northeast  winds,  which  are  neither  pleasant  nor  healthful. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

Except  in  the  valleys  of  the  principal  rivers,  the  soil  of  Connecticut 
is  not  remarkable  for  fertility.  In  the  river  valleys  the  lands  are  very 
good,  especially  along  the  Connecticut  River.  The  northwestern  part 
of  the  State  is  devoted  to  dairy  farming  and  grazing.  Agriculture 
receives  great  attention  in  this  State,  and  the  soil  is  skilfully  and  in- 
dustriously tilled. 

In  1869,  there  were  1,830,808  acres  of  improved,  and  6 73,457  acres 
of  unimproved  land  in  Connecticut.  The  other  agricultural  products 
were  stated  as  follows  for  the  same  year : 

Cash  value  of  farms, -    ...  $125,000,000 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery,  3,500,000 

Number  of  horses, 40,150 

asses  and  mules, 110 

"            milch  cows, 99,350 

other  cattle, 112,680 

"            sheep, • 118,300 

"            swine, 90,450 

Yalue  of  domestic  animals, .  $17,311,009 

Bushels  of  wheat, ...  75,000 

rye, '         837,000 

Indian  corn, 1,950,000 

oats, 2,100,000 

Irish  potatoes, 2,500,000 

barley. 25,000 

buckwheat, 270,000 

Pounds  of  tobacco, .    .  6,000,000 

wool, 350,000 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  489. 


CONNECTICUT.  297 

Pounds  of  butter, 7,620,912 

"            cheese, 3,898,411 

"            maple  sugar, 44,259 

"            beeswax  and  honey, 67,101 

Gallons  of  wine, 46,783 

Tons  of  hay, 750,000 


COMMERCE. 

Connecticut  possesses  little  or  no  foreign  commerce  of  her  own, 
her  trade  with  other  countries,  except  that  with  the  West  Indies, 
being  conducted  almost  entirely  through  the  ports  of  New  York  and 
Boston.  An  active  trade  is  maintained  with  the  principal  ports  of 
the  American  coast,  especially  with  New  York.  In  1863,  the  total 
tonnage  owned  in  the  State  was  110,033.  In  1861,  the  total  exports 
of  Connecticut  amounted  to  $421,320,  and  the  imports  to  $753,309. 

MANUFACTURES. 

Connecticut  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  contains, 
perhaps,  more  small  establishments  conducted  by  persons  of  moderate 
capital  than  any  of  the  New  England  States.  The  products  of  these 
little  factories  make  up  an  imposing  sum  total,  which  compares  favor- 
ably with  that  of  the  States  containing  larger  establishments.  The 
wooden  clocks  of  this  State  (to  say  nothing  of  its  "  wooden  nutmegs  ") 
are  famous,  and  of  late  years  have  even  been  exported  to  Europe. 
"Nearly  all  the  inhabitants  are  directly  or  indirectly  interested  in 
some  kind  of  manufactures.  It  is  the  genius  of  the  people  to  attend 
to  a  multiplicity  of  pursuits,  and  consequently,  while  all  are  busy, 
undertakings  on  a  large  scale  are  seldom  made.  More  recently,  how- 
ever, combined  capital,  aided  by  men  of  means  from  other  States,  has 
much  enlarged  manufacturing  operations.  Much  of  the  machinery 
used  is  the  fruit  of  the  inventions  and  improvements  by  the  manufac- 
turers themselves,  among  whom  we  need  mention  but  the  names  of 
Whitney,  Goodyear  and  Colt.  The  people  are  always  contriving  and 
enthusiastic  in  whatever  they  undertake.  The  most  extensive  manu- 
factures are  those  of  iron,  clocks,  carriages  and  india-rubber  goods; 
iron  of  all  possible  varieties,  from  the  heaviest  castings  to  the  finest 
cutlery,  including  anchors  and  boilers,  firearms,  edge-tools,  wire,  etc. 
Connecticut  has  almost  engrossed  the  manufacture  of  clocks  for  our 
whole  country,  and  for  a  large  part  of  the  civilized  world.  .  .  .  The 
genius  of  Goodyear  and  of  his  co-laborers,  has  given  greater  variety  to 


298  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  manufactures  of  india-rubber  than  of  almost  any  other  known  sub- 
stance. In  the  manufacture  of  carriages,  Connecticut  is  second  to  no 
State  in  the  Union."* 

In  1860,  there  were  in  the  State,  2923  establishments  devoted  to 
manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  65,780  hands, 
and  a  capital  of  $45,720,000,  using  raw  material  worth  $40,140,000, 
and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $83,000,000.  There  were  64  cotton 
mills,  employing  3314  male  and  4275  female  hands,  and  a  capital 
of  $6,000,000,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $4,000,000 ;  paying 
$1,453,128  for  labor;  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $7,641,460. 
There  were  90  woollen  mills,  employing  2291  male  and  1460  female 
hands,  and  a  capital  of  $2,494,000;  consuming  raw  material  worth 
$4,206,000;  paying  $917,437  for  labor;  and  yielding  an  annual  pro- 
duct of  $5,879,000.  The  other  manufactures  are  stated  as  follows  in 
the  same  year : 

Value  of  agricultural  implements, $206,162 

"        pig  iron, 379,500 

rolled  iron, 175,500 

steam  engines  and  machinery,   .    .    .  1,953,535 

sewing  machines, 2,784,600 

sawed  and  planed  lumber,      ....  531,651 

flour • 1,719,294 

leather, 953,782 

boots  and  shoes, 2,044,762 

furniture, 514,425 

"       jewelry,  silverware,  etc., 1,887,484 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  the  year  1868,  there  were  637  miles  of  railroad  in  operation  in 
Connecticut,  the  total  cost  of  which  was  $24,370,000.  Lines  cross 
the  State  in  every  direction,  connecting  its  principal  towns  with  each 
other,  and  with  New  York  and  Boston.  A  continuous  line  skirts  the 
shore  of  Long  Island  Sound,  from  which  several  routes  diverge,  at 
various  points,  to  the  northward.  An  important  "Air  Line"  between 
New  York  and  Boston  is  now  in  construction  across  the  State. 

There  is  but  one  canal  in  the  State,  and  that  a  short  one  around 
Enfield  Falls,  in  the  Connecticut  River. 

*  Appleton's  Cyclopaedia,  vol.  v.  p.  617. 


CONNECTICUT.  299 

EDUCATION. 

This  State  has  always  been  noted  for  the  excellence  of  its  public 
school  system.  There  is  a  permanent  school  fund,  which,  in  1870, 
amounted  to  $2,044,058.  The  interest  of  this  sum  is  applied  to  the 
support  of  the  schools,  and  the  remainder  of  the  amount  needed  for 
their  maintenance  is  raised  by  taxation.  In  1868  there  were  1645 
public  schools.  The  attendance  was  as  follows  :  in  the  winter,  80,148, 
average  attendance  57,117,  in  the  summer,  73,863,  average  attendance 
52,299.  The  proportion  of  children  attending  school  is  less  than  in 
any  other  New  England  State,  and  truancy  prevails  to  such  an  alarm- 
ing extent  that  the  authorities  of  the  State  are  urged  by  the  Board  of 
Education  to  take  decisive  measures  to  put  a  stop  to  the  evil.  They 
assert  that  less  than  one  half  the  children  of  the  State  are  found  on 
an  average  in  the  public  schools. 

The  school  system  is  under  the  control  of  the  State  Board  of  Edu- 
cation, which  consists  of  the  Governor  and  Lieutenant-Governor,  ex 
officio,  and  one  person  appointed  by  the  Legislature  from  each  of  the 
four  Congressional  districts,  for  a  term  of  four  years.  The  principal 
executive  officer  is  the  Secretary,  who  is  chosen  by  the  Board,  and 
manages  its  affairs,  and  supervises  the  public  schools  under  its  direc- 
tion. The  State  is  divided  into  1620  educational  districts,  each  of 
which  is  immediately  in  charge  of  a  School  Committee,  elected  by  the 
people  of  the  district.  In  order  to  be  entitled  to  the  benefits  of  the 
school  fund,  each  common  school  must  be  conducted  for  at  least  six 
months  in  the  year  by  a  regularly  licensed  teacher. 

There  is  a  State  Normal  School,  for  the  education  of  teachers,  at 
New  Britain,  and  Teachers'  Institutes  are  held  in  various  parts  of 
the  State  under  the  direction  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Board  of  Educa- 
tion. The  Commonwealth  makes  an  appropriation  of  $3000  per 
annum  to  defray  their  expenses.  Seven  cities,  and  several  of  the 
large  towns,  support  public  high  schools. 

There  are  35  incorporated  academies,  and  a  number  of  flourishing 
private  schools  in  the  State. 

Connecticut  contains  three  colleges,  Yale  College,  at  New  Haven, 
Trinity  College,  at  Hartford,  and  Wesleyan  University,  at  Middle- 
town.  The  first  is  a  Congregationalist,  the  second  an  Episcopal,  and 
the  third  a  Methodist  institution. 

Yale  College  was  originally  located  at  Killingworth,  and  was 
founded  in  1700.  It  was  removed  to  Say  brook  in  1707,  and  to  New 


300 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


YALE    COLLEGE,   NEW    HAVEN. 

Haven  in  1716.  It  embraces  five  schools,  the  academical,  theological, 
medical,  law  school,  and  the  school  of  science  and  the  arts.  Each  of 
these  has  its  own  faculty.  It  is  one  of  the  best  institutions  of  its  kind 
in  the  Union,  but  is  considerably  hampered  in  its  usefulness  by  a  lack 
of  means.  Recently,  however,  it  has  received  some  assistance  from 
the  State  and  from  private  individuals. 

Trinity  College  was  founded  in  1823,  is  located  at  Hartford,  and  is 
under  the  direction  of  the  Episcopal  Church.  The  college  is  in  a 
prosperous  condition,  and  ranks  high  amongst  the  institutions  of  its 
kind  in  the  Union. 

The  Wesleyan  University,  at  Middletown,  is  a  flourishing  institu- 
tion under  the  direction  of  the  Methodists.  The  course  is  similar  to 
that  of  other  first-class  colleges. 

In  1860  there  were  490  libraries  in  the  State  (of  which  194  were 
public),  containing  404,206  volumes.  In  the  same  year  there  were 


CONNECTICUT.  .  301 

55  periodicals  published  in  the  State — 45  political,  3  religious,  5 
literary,  and  2  miscellaneous.  Of  these,  14  were  daily,  1  semi- 
weekly,  37  weekly,  1  monthly,  and  2  quarterly.  Their  aggregate 
annual  circulation  was  9,555,672  copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Prison  is  located  at  Wethersfield.  The  inmates  work  in 
silence  during  the  day,  and  are  confined  in  separate  cells  at  night. 
Their  labor  is  let  out  to  contractors,  and  in  1868  the  earnings  of  the 
institution  were  slightly  in  excess  of  its  expenses.  The  commutation 
system  is  carried  out  here  with  great  success,  and  concerts  and  other 
healthful  entertainments  are  occasionally  given  in  the  prison  by 
benevolent  citizens.  In  March,  1870,  there  were  219  convicts  con- 
fined here. 

The  American  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  at  Hartford,  is  the 
oldest  as  well  as  one  of  the  best  institutions  of  its  kind  in  America. 
It  was  incorporated  in  1816,  and  opened  the  next  year.  In  1819  it 
received  from  Congress  an  endowment  of  23,000  acres  of  land,  and 
the  Legislatures  of  several  of  the  States  made  liberal  provisions  for  it, 
upon  the  condition  that  they  should  each  have  the  privilege  of  placing 
a  certain  number  of  pupils  under  its  care.  This  arrangement  is  still 
in  operation. 

"  In  the  earlier  periods  of  instruction  much  use  was  made  of  the 
system  of  methodical  signs,  so  carefully  elaborated  by  Dr.  L'Epee  and 
Sicard,  in  which  each  word  had  a  definite  and  fixed  sign,  and  could 
be  given  in  the  proper  order  in  the  sentence.  These  signs  were 
greatly  simplified  and  improved  by  Mr.  Gallaudet  and  his  early  as- 
sociates. His  successors  continued  to  introduce  such  modifications 
and  improvements  as  the  experience  of  intelligent  teachers  suggested. 
The  methods  now  pursued  have  the  same  general  ends  in  view  as  at 
first,  that  is,  to  enable  the  pupils  to  hold  communication  with  society 
by  means  of  written  language,  but  they  secure  this  result  earlier  and 
more  satisfactorily  by  leading  the  pupil  sooner  to  use  forms  of  con- 
nected language.  Special  attention  has  been  given  from  the  first  to 
the  religious  and  moral  culture  of  the  pupils." 

The  average  annual  attendance  at  this  institution  is  about  250. 
Nearly  1500  pupils  have  attended  it  since  its  establishment. 

The  Retreat  for  the  Insane,  at  Hartford,  is  supported  in  part  by 
the  State,  and  was  incorporated  in  1822.  A  General  Hospital  for 
the  Insane  has  been  established  by  the  State  at  Middletown,  on  the 


302  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

banks  of  the  Connecticut  River,  and  is  now  in  operation.  In 
1868  the  number  of  patients  at  the  Hartford  Retreat  Was  413. 
Patients  are  maintained  here  by  some  of  the  other  Eastern  States. 

The  State  Reform  Sehool,  at  West  Meriden,  was  opened  in  1854. 
Boys  between  ten  and  sixteen  years  of  age,  convicted  of  offences,  other 
than  those  for  which  the  penalty  is  imprisonment  for  life,  may  be  sent 
to  this  school,  and  parents  and  guardians  may  indenture  unruly  youths 
to  the  school  by  paying  a  sum  of  $3  a  week  while  they  continue  their 
connection  with  it.  The  boys  are  required  to  be  in  the  school-room 
four  hours  each  day,  where  they  are  thoroughly  taught  in  the  various 
branches  of  a  plain,  practical  education,  and  for  several  hours  are  en- 
gaged in  the  workshop  and  on  the  farm.  The  receipts  of  their  labor 
in  1870  were  as  follows :  from  the  farm,  $1087 ;  from  the  workshop, 
$20,887.  In  March,  1870,  there  were  267  boys  in  the  school. 

The  State  supports  in  part  a  School  for  Imbeciles,  at  Lakeville, 
and  three  Homes  for  Soldiers'  Orphans,  located  at  Darien,  Cromwell, 
and  Mansfield,  and  makes  an  annual  appropriation  for  the  support  of 
patients  at  the  Perkins  Institution  for  the  Blind,  at  Boston. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  total  value  of  church  property  in  Connecticut,  was 
$13,428,109.  The  number  of  churches  was  902. 

FINANCES. 

In  1870,  the  public  debt,  over  and  above  the  assets  of  the  State, 
was  $6,808,925.  Not  deducting  the  assets  (sinking  fund,  bank  stock, 
and  cash  on  hand),  the  amount  was  $9,705,400.  The  receipts  of  the 
Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  March  31st,  1870,  were  $1,738,766, 
and  the  expenditures  $1,227,797.  In  1868,  there  were  88  banks  in 
the  State  (6  of  which  were  State  banks),  with  an  aggregate  capital  of 
$25,994,220. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  Constitution  of  Connecticut  was  adopted  in  1818.  Every  male 
white  citizen  21  years  old  and  able  to  read  any  article  of  the  Constitu- 
tion, who  shall  have  resided  in  the  State  one  year  and  in  the  town 
six  months,  may  vote,  upon  taking  the  oath  required  by  law. 

The  Government  of  the  State  is  conducted  by  a  Governor,  Lieu- 
tenant-Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  and  Comptroller,  and 
a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  not  less  than  18  nor  more 


CONNECTICUT.  303 

than  24  members),  and  a  House  of  Representatives  (of  237  members), 
all  chosen  annually  by  the  people,  on  the  first  Monday  in  April. 
They  enter  upon  their  offices  on  the  first  Wednesday  in  May. 

The  Legislature  holds  annual  sessions,  and  meets  alternately  in 
Hartford  and  New  Haven,  the  two  capitals  of  the  State. 

There  is  a  Supreme  Court  of  Errors,  composed  of  one  Chief  Judge 
and  three  Associate  Judges.  Appeals  from  the  lower  courts  are  heard 
and  decided  in  this  body.  Its  judgment  is  final  and  conclusive. 

The  Superior  Court  consists  of  six  judges,  exclusive  of  those  who 
are  judges  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  has  cognizance  of  all  cases,  civil 
or  criminal.  In  criminal  cases,  where  death  is  the  penalty  of  the 
crime  for  which  the  prisoner  is  on  trial,  the  court  is  required  by  law 
to  be  composed  of  two  judges,  one  of  whom  must  be  a  judge  of  the 
Supreme  Court. 

The  judges  of  these  courts  are  elected  on  joint  ballot  by  the  Legis- 
lature, and  hold  office  for  a  period  of  eight  years.  Upon  reaching  the 
age  of  70  years,  they  are  disqualified  by  the  Constitution  from  holding 
office. 

Hartford  and  New  Haven  are  the  capitals  of  Connecticut.  For 
purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  8  counties. 

HISTORY. 

In  1633,  the  Dutch  built  a  trading  house  at  Hartford,  and  defended 
it  by  a  fort.  As  early  as  1631,  however,  Seguin,  the  chief  of  the  In- 
dians who  owned  the  lands  along  the  Connecticut  River,  had  sent 
messengers  to  Governor  Winthrop,  at  Boston,  and  Governor  Winslow, 
at  Plymouth,  inviting  them  to  come  and  settle  his  country.  His  in- 
vitation was  accepted,  and  the  present  town  of  Windsor,  above  Hart- 
ford, was  founded  in  1633,  by  a  company  from  Plymouth,  who  built 
a  trading  house  there.  This  is  regarded  as  the  first  permanent  settle- 
ment of  the  State,  although  the  Dutch  trading  post  was  in  existence 
at  the  time.  The  first  town  which  was  built,  however,  was  Wethers- 
field,  which  was  established  by  a  company  of  emigrants  from  Massa- 
chusetts, in  1634.  By  1633,  three  towns,  Wethersfield,  Windsor,  and 
Hartford,  were  established,  with  an  aggregate  population  of  750  in- 
habitants. 

In  1638,  New  Haven  was  settled  by  emigrants  from  England,  and 
continued  to  form  an  establishment  distinct  from  that  of  Hartford 
until  1662,  when  Charles  II.  united  the  two  colonies  under  one  gov- 
ernment. 


304  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

In  1637,  the  settlers  of  the  Hartford  or  Connecticut  colony  were 
greatly  harassed  by  the  Pequot  Indians.  The  authorities  resolved 
to  put  an  effectual  stop  to  their  depredations,  and  a  levy  of  90  men, 
half  the  number  of  able-bodied  males  in  the  colony,  was  ordered. 
This  force  was  well  armed,  and  placed  under  the  orders  of  Captain 
John  Mason,  who  at  once  made  a  descent  upon  the  main  stronghold 
of  the  Pequots,  and  inflicted  upon  them  a  blow  that  completely  de- 
stroyed them  as  a  tribe.  The  locality  where  this  encounter  took  place 
is  known  as  Mystic.  The  effect  of  this  decisive  action  was  most  happy 
as  regarded  the  other  tribes. 

In  1639,  the  colony  of  Connecticut  adopted  its  first  Constitution ;  and 
in  1662,  Governor  John  Winthrop  obtained  from  Charles  II.  a  charter 
uniting  the  colonies  of  Connecticut  and  New  Haven  under  one  govern- 
ment, the  name  of  the  former  being  given  to  the  whole  province.  New 
Haven  at  first  opposed  the  measure,  but  at  length  consented  to  it  in 
1 665,  when  the  union  was  finally  accomplished.  "  The  charter  granted 
the  colony  jurisdiction  over  the  lands  within  its  limits;  provided  for 
the  election  of  a  governor,  deputy-governor,  and  12  assistants,  and 
2  deputies  from  each  town — substantially  the  same  as  provided  for 
under  the  previous  Constitution ;  allowed  the  free  transportation  of 
colonists  and  merchandize  from  England  to  the  colony ;  guaranteed 
to  the  colonists  the  rights  of  English  citizens ;  provided  for  the  mak- 
ing of  laws  and  organization  of  courts  by  the  general  assembly,  and 
the  appointment  of  all  necessary  officers  for  the  public  good;  the  or- 
ganization of  a  soldiery,  providing  for  the  public  defence,  etc.  This 
charter  was  of  so  general  a  character,  and  conferred  so  large  powers, 
that  no  change  was  necessary  when  Connecticut  took  her  stand  as  one 
of  the  independent  States  of  the  Union,  on  the  declaration  of  inde- 
pendence in  1776 ;  but  it  was  continued,  without  alteration,  as  the 
Constitution  of  the  State  until  1818,  when  the  present  Constitution 
was  formed.  Until  1670,  at  the  general  election,  all  the  freemen 
assembled  at  Hartford,  and  personally  voted  for  the  State  officers  and 
assistants.  Thereafter  they  voted  by  proxy,  or  sent  up  their  votes. 
In  July,  1685,  a  writ  of  quo  warranto  was  issued  by  the  King's  Bench, 
and  served  on  the  governor  and  company,  with  the  design  of  taking 
away  the  charter  and  uniting  the  New  England  colonies  in  one  gov- 
ernment under  a  royal  governor.  Sir  Edmund  Andros  arrived  in 
Boston,  December  19th,  1686,  with  his  commission  as  governor.  In 
October,  1687,  he  came  to  Hartford,  while  the  assembly  was  sitting, 
and  demanded  the  charter.  It  was  produced  and  laid  upon  the  table. 


CONNECTICUT.  305 

The  discussion  was  protracted  into  the  evening.  Suddenly  the  lights 
were  extinguished,  and  Captain  Joseph  Wadsworth  seized  and  carried 
away  the  charter  and  hid  it  in  the  famous  charter-oak.  Andros  seized 
the  government,  which  he  administered,  or  rather  it  was  administered 
under  him,  in  a  very  oppressive  manner.  On  the  dethronement  of 
James  II.,  and  the  consequent  deposition  of  Andros,  the  government, 
on  May  9th,  1689,  resumed  its  functions,  as  if  the  period  since  the 
usurpation  of  Andros  to  that  time,  were  annihilated;  and  as  the  char- 
ter had  not  in  the  King's  Court  been  declared  forfeit,  it  was,  after  a 
struggle,  allowed  to  continue  in  force,  the  freest  Constitution  ever 
granted  by  royal  favor. " 

During  the  wars  with  the  French  and  Indians,  the  colony  bore  a 
liberal  share  of  the  burdens,  and  warmly  supported  the  cause  of 
American  independence  during  the  Revolution,  in  which  struggle  the 
shores  of  Long  Island  Sound  suffered  severely  from  the  depredations 
of  the  British.  New  Haven  was  captured,  and  its  inhabitants  bar- 
barously treated,  and  New  London  and  Groton  were  taken  and  burned 
by  a  force  under  Benedict  Arnold. 

In  1814,  the  famous  New  England  Convention  met  at  Hartford, 
and  during  this  and  the  preceding  year  New  London  was  closely 
blockaded  by  the  British  fleet. 

During  the  recent  Rebellion,  Connecticut  contributed  54,468  men 
to  the  military  service  of  the  United  States. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  important  cities  and  towns  are,  New  London,  Norwich,  Mid- 
dletown,  Bridgeport,  Waterbury,  Stonington,  Guilford,  Danbury, 
Greenwich,  Sharon,  Meriden,  Windsor  Locks,  Bristol,  Falls  Village, 
New  Hartford,  Norfolk,  Greenville,  Deep  River,  and  New  Milford. 

NEW    HAVEN, 

One  of  the  capitals  of  Connecticut,  and  the  largest  city  in  the  State, 
is  situated  on  a  harbor  of  considerable  size,  4  miles  distant  from  Long 
Island  Sound.  It  is  in  New  Haven  county,  and  is  76  miles  northeast 
of  New  York,  and  160  miles  southwest  of  Boston.  It  is  on  the  line 
of  direct  communication  between  those  two  cities,  and  from  it  railways 
diverge  to  all  parts  of  New  England. 

"  The  country  round  New  Haven  is  very  picturesque.     Behind  the 
town,  at  a  distance  of  about  two  miles, -is  an  amphitheatre  of  rugged 
hills,  not  unlike  some  of  our  Scottish  scenery;  in  front  is  an  inlet  from 
20 


306 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


NEW    HAVEN. 

Long  Island  Sound,  affording  a  safe  and  commodious  harbor;  to  the 
right  and  left,  a  richly  cultivated  country,  relieved  by  patches  of 
forest;  and,  in  wide  expanse  before  it,  the  blue  waves  of  the  sea 
rolling  in  magnificence.  Two  large  precipices,  called  East  and  West 
Rock,  400  feet  high,  and  about  two  miles  apart,  form  part  of  the 
semicircular  range.  They  are  prominent  features  in  the  landscape ; 
and  events  in  the  annals  of  our  native  country,  with  which  they  are 
associated,  impart  to  them  that  traditional  charm  which  is  so  often 
wanting  in  American  scenery.  In  the  fastnesses  of  these  rocks,  some 
of  the  regicides  of  Charles  I.  found  shelter  from  their  pursuers,  when 
the  agents  of  his  profligate  son  hunted  them  for  their  lives."  *  Seve- 
ral small  streams  flow  into  New  Haven  Bay,  as  the  harbor  is  called. 
Several  bridges  span  them,  and  connect  the  city  with  the  opposite 
shores. 

New  Haven  extends  back  about  2  miles  from  the  harbor,  and  is 
about  3  miles  broad  from  east  to  west.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and 
is  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  in  America. 

The  streets  are  unusually  broad,  and  are  shaded  with  the  most 
magnificent  elms  in  the  New  World.  Temple  street,  and  some  other 
thoroughfares,  are  so  thickly  shaded  that  the  rays  of  the  sun  rarely 
penetrate  the  thick  foliage  overhead.  The  abundance  of  these  trees 

*  Duncan's  Travels. 


CONNECTICUT.  307 

has  gained  for  New  Haven  the  sobriquet  of  "  The  City  of  Elms." 
There  are  several  fine  public  squares  within  the  corporate  limits,  and 
also  one  or  two  very  beautiful  cemeteries.  The  residences  are  sur- 
rounded by  large  grounds  handsomely  ornamented  and  planted  with 
a  luxuriant  shrubbery. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  State  House,  a  stuccoed  edi- 
fice, modelled  after  the  Parthenon;  and  the  City  Hall,  facing  the 
green,  a  handsome  Gothic  edifice  of  Portland  and  Nova  Scotia  stone. 
The  tower,  84  feet  high,  is  surmounted  by  a  spire  66  feet  high,  which 
contains  an  observatory  and  an  alarm  bell.  The  churches,  32  in 
number,  are  very  handsome,  and  form  conspicuous  and  attractive 
features  in  the  general  appearance  of  the  city. 

New  Haven  contains  several  excellent  institutions  of  learning,  be- 
sides Yale  College,  and  has  one  of  the  best  free  school  systems  in  the 
world.  It  has  a  good  public  library,  5  or  6  banks,  and  is  lighted 
with  gas,  supplied  with  water,  and  traversed  by  street  railways.  Nine 
newspapers  and  three  magazines  are  published  here.  The  population 
is  50,840. 

The  city  carries  on  an  active  trade  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by 
means  of  its  railroads.  It  has  steamboat  communication  with  New 
York  and  the  towns  on  the  Connecticut  River.  The  harbor,  though 

'  O 

extensive  and  admirably  sheltered,  is  too  shallow  to  admit  vessels  of  ' 
a  large  size.  It  is  rapidly  filling  up.  The  General  Government  has 
made  several  attempts  to  deepen  it,  but  it  is  feared  that  nothing  can 
resist  the  course  of  nature,  which  seems  to  be  rendering  the  harbor 
too  shallow  to  be  fit  for  use.  A  wharf,  3493  feet — the  longest  in  the 
United  States — has  been  built  out  into  the  bay  to  accommodate  ves- 
sels, but  the  water  surrounding  it  is  becoming  very  shallow.  In 
spite  of  these  disadvantages,  however,  the  city  possesses  some  foreign 
commerce,  and  an  active  coasting  trade. 

New  Haven  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  it  is  esti- 
mated that  fully  one-fourth  of  the  entire  population  is  so  employed. 
The  principal  wares  produced  are  carriages,  india-rubber  goods,  iron 
ware  of  various  kinds,  boots  and  shoes,  and  clocks. 

"  The  chief  ornament  and  attraction  of  New  Haven  remains  to  be 
noticed, — its  college,  the  rival  of  Harvard  University  in  literary 
respectability,  and  honorably  distinguished  from  it  by  the  orthodoxy 
of  its  religious  character.  The  buildings  of  Yale  College  make  a  con- 
spicuous appearance,  when  entering  the  town  eastward  ;  and  the  effect 
is  considerably  heightened  by  three  churches,  which  stand  at  a  little 


308  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

distance  in  front,  in  a  parallel  line.  The  ground  between  the  college 
and  the  churches  is  neatly  divided  and  enclosed,  and  ornamented 
with  trees.  Including  passage-ways,  the  principal  edifices  present  a 
front  of  upwards  of  800  feet.  The  buildings  are  chiefly  constructed 
of  brick,  and  consist  of  five  spacious  edifices,  each  four  stories  high, 
104  feet  by  40,  containing  32  studies ;  a  chapel  for  religious  worship 
and  ordinary  public  exhibitions;  a  Lyceum,  containing  the  library 
and  recitation  rooms ;  an  Athenaeum ;  a  Chemical  Laboratory ;  an 
extensive  stone  Dining  Hall,  containing  also  in  the  upper  story,  apart- 
ments for  the  mineralogical  cabinet;  a  separate  Dining  Hall  for  The- 
ological Students;  a  dwelling  house  for  the  President;  a  large  stone 
building  occupied  by  the  medical  department;  and  the  Truinbull  Gal- 
lery, a  neat  and  appropriate  building  erected  as  a  repository  for  the 
valuable  historical  and  other  paintings  of  Col.  Trumbull. 

"  Yale  College  was  originally  established  at  Saybrook,  in  the  year 
1700,  and  was  incorporated  by  the  colonial  legislature  in  the  follow- 
ing year.  The  project  of  establishing  a  college  in  Connecticut  ap- 
pears to  have  been  seriously  entertained  fifty  years  before ;  but  it  was 
checked,  Dr.  Dwight  informs  us,  by  well  founded  circumstances,  by 
the  people  of  Massachusetts,  who  justly  urged  that  the  whole  popula- 
tion of  New  England  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  support  one  institution 
of  this  nature,  and  that  the  establishment  of  a  second  would  endanger 
the  prosperity  of  both  ;  these  objections  put  a  stop  to  the  design  for  the 
time;  it  was  not,  however,  lost  sight  of.  In  1718,  the  infant  Institu- 
tion was  removed  by  the  Trustees  to  New  Haven.  It  was  originally 
intended  simply  for  the  education  of  young  men  for  the  ministry :  but, 
as  it  gathered  strength  from  individual  liberality  and  public  patron- 
age, the  range  of  its  plan  of  study  was  gradually  extended,  until  it 
now  embraces  the  more  essential  parts  of  a  complete  literary,  scientific, 
and  medical  education. 

"  The  college  received  its  name,  in  commemoration  of  the  benefi- 
cence of  the  Honorable  Elihu  Yale,  a  son  of  one  of  the  first  settlers, 
who  went  to  England  in  early  life,  and  thence  to  India,  where  he  be- 
came governor  to  Madras ;  and  on  his  return  to  England,  he  was 
elected  governor  of  the  East  India  Company.  From  this  gentleman 
the  college  received  donations  at  various  times,  between  1714  and 
1718,  to  the  amount  of  <£500  sterling;  and  a  short  time  before  his 
death,  he  directed  another  benefaction  to  the  same  amount  to  be  trans- 
mitted, but  it  was  never  received.  Another  of  its  early  benefactors 
was  the  celebrated  Dean  Berkeley,  afterwards  Bishop  of  Cloyne,  who 


CONNECTICUT  309 

came  to  America  in  1732,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  college  in 
the  island  of  Bermuda;  a  project  to  which  he  nobly  sacrificed  con- 
siderable property,  as  well  as  time  and  labor.  His  efforts  being  frus- 
trated by  the  failure  of  the  promised  support  from  Government,  he 
presented  to  this  Institution  a  farm  which  he  had  purchased  in  Ilhode 
Island,  and  afterwards  transmitted  to  it  from  England  a  very  valua- 
ble collection  of  books — '  the  finest  that  ever  came  together  at  one 
time  into  America/  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  and  many  other  distinguished 
men,  presented  their  works  to  the  library. 

"  Although  founded  under  the  sanction  of  the  colonial  legislature, 
and  partly  endowed  by  it,  the  college  was  for  a  long  time  indebted 
for  its  support  chiefly  to  individual  patronage :  the  whole  amount  be- 
stowed by  the  colonial  legislature,  during  the  first  90  years  of  its  ex- 
istence, did  not  much  exceed  £4500  sterling.  But  when  the  Federal 
Government  was  consolidated,  a  grant  was  made,  in  1792,  to  Yale 
College,  out  of  a  fund  created  by  uncollected  arrears  of  war  taxes,  by 
which  ultimately  $60,000  were  realized. 

"  The  library  of  the  college  has  recently  been  much  enlarged  by  the 
addition  of  many  valuable  volumes,  selected  by  Professor  Kingsley, 
who  visited  Europe  with  reference  to  that  selection.  The  libraries 
of  the  different  societies  receive  frequent  additions.  At  present  the 
libraries  belonging  to  the  institution  form  an  aggregate  of  from  30,000 
to  40,000  volumes.  The  college  possesses  the  richest  mineralogical 
cabinet  on  the  continent."  * 

The  city  was  founded  as  a  separate  colony,  in  1638,  by  a  company 
of  emigrants  from  London.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1784. 

During  the  Revolution,  it  was  captured  by  the  British.  This 
occurrence  took  place  on  the  5th  of  July,  1779,  and  is  thus  described 
in  the  Connecticut  Journal,  of  July  7th — two  days  later : 

About  two  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  5th  instant,  a  fleet  consisting  of  the 
Camilla  and  Scorpion  men-of-war,  with  tenders,  transports,  etc.,  to  the  number 
of  48,  commanded  by  Commodore  Sir  George  Collier,  anchored  off  West  Haven. 
They  had  on  board  about  3000  land  forces,  commanded  by  Major-General  Tryon ; 
about  1500  of  whom,  under  Brigadier-General  Garth,  landed  about  sunrise  on 
West  Haven  point.  The  town  being  alarmed,  all  the  preparation  which  the  con- 
fusion and  distress  of  the  inhabitants,  and  a  necessary  care  of  their  families  would 
permit,  was  made  for  resistance.  The  West  Bridge  on  Milford  road  was  taken 
up,  and  several  fieldpieces  were  carried  thither,  and  some  slight  works  thrown  up 
for  the  defence  of  that  pass.  The  division  under  General  Garth  being  landed, 
immediately  began  their  march  toward  the  town.  The  first  opposition  was  made 

*  The  Land  We  Live  In,  pp.  153-154. 


310  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

by  about  25  of  the  inhabitants,  to  an  advanced  party  of  the  enemy  of  two  com- 
panies of  light  infantry.  These,  though  advancing  on  the  height  of  Milford  hill, 
were  attacked  with  great  spirit  by  the  handful  of  our  people,  and  driven  back 
almost  to  West  Haven,  and  one  of  them  was  taken  prisoner.  The  enemy  then 
advanced  in  their  main  body,  with  strong  flanking  parties,  and  two  fieldpieces ; 
and  finding  a  smart  fire  kept  up  from  our  fieldpieces  at  the  bridge  aforesaid,  chose 
not  to  force  an  entrance  to  the  town  by  that,  the  usual  road,  but  to  make  a  cir- 
cuitous march  of  nine  miles,  in  order  to  enter  by  the  Derby  road.  In  this  march 
our  small  party  on  Milford  hill,  now  increased  to  perhaps  150,  promiscuously  col- 
lected from  several  companies  of  the  militia,  had  a  small  encounter  with  the  enemy's 
flank  near  the  Milford  road,  in  which  was  killed  their  adjutant,  Campbell,  the  loss 
of  whom  they  lamented  with  much  apparent  sensibility.  Our  people  on  the  hill, 
being  obliged  by  superior  numbers,  to  give  way,  kept  up  a  continual  fire  on  the 
enemy,  and  galled  them  much,  through  all  their  march  to  Thomson's  bridge  on 
the  Derby  road.  In  the  mean  time,  those  who  were  posted  at  the  West  bridge, 
perceiving  the  movements  of  the  enemy,  and  also  that  another  large  body  of  them 
had  landed  at  the  South  End,  on  the  east  side  of  the  harbor,  quitted  the  bridge 
and  marched  thence  to  oppose  the  enemy  at  Thomson's  bridge.  But  by  the 
time  they  had  reached  the  bank  of  the  river,  the  enemy  were  in  possession  of  the 
bridge,  and  the  places  at  which  the  river  is  here  fordable  :  yet  having  received  a 
small  accession  of  strength  by  the  coming  in  of  the  militia,  they  gave  the  enemy  a 
smart  fire  from  two  fieldpieces  and  small  arms,  which  continued  with  little  abate- 
ment, till  the  enemy  were  in  possession  of  the  town,  or  through  the  town  across 
the  Neck  bridge.  The  enemy  entered  the  town  between  12  and  1  o'clock.  In 
the  mean  time,  the  division  of  the  enemy,  before-mentioned  to  have  landed  at  the 
South  End,  which  was  under  the  immediate  command  of  General  Tryon,  was 
bravely  resisted  by  a  small  party  of  men,  with  one  fieldpiece,  who,  besides  other 
execution,  killed  an  officer  of  the  enemy,  in  one  of  the  boats  at  their  landing. 
This  division  marched  up  by  land,  and  attacked  the  fort  at  Black  Rock  ;  at  the 
same  time,  their  shipping  drew  up,  and  attacked  it  from  the  harbor.  The  fort 
had  only  19  men,  and  three  pieces  of  artilery,  yet  was  defended  as  long  as  reason 
or  valor  dictated,  and  then  the  men  made  good  their  retreat. 

The  town  being  now  in  full  possession  of  the  enemy,  it  was  delivered  up,  ex- 
cept a  few  instances  of  protection,  to  promiscuous  plunder ;  in  which,  besides 
robbing  the  inhabitants  of  their  watches,  money,  plate,  buckles,  clothing,  bed- 
ding, and  provisions,  they  broke  and  destroyed  their  household  furniture  to  a 
very  great  amount.  Some  families  lost  every  thing  their  houses  contained : 
many  have  now  neither  food,  nor  clothes  to  shift. 

A  body  of  militia  sufficient  to  penetrate  the  town,  could  not  be  collected  that 
evening :  we  were  obliged  therefore  to  content  ourselves  with  giving  the  enemy 
every  annoyance  in  our  power,  which  was  done  with  great  spirit  for  most  of  the 
afternoon  at  and  about  the  Ditch  corner. 

Early  on  Tuesday  morning,  the  enemy  unexpectedly  and  with  the  utmost  still- 
ness and  despatch,  called  in  their  guards,  and  retreated  to  their  boats,  carrying 
with  them  a  number  of  the  inhabitants  captive,  most,  if  not  all  of  whom,  were  taken 
without  arms,  and  a  few  who  chose  to  accompany  them.  Part  of  them  went  on 
board  their  fleet,  and  part  crossed  over  to  General  Tryon  at  East  Haven.  On 
Tuesday  afternoon,  the  militia  collected  in  such  numbers,  and  crowded  so  close 
upon  General  Tryon,  that  he  thought  best  to  retreat  on  board  his  fleet,  and  set 
sail  to  the  westward. 


CONNECTICUT.  311 

The  loss  of  the  enemy  is  unknown  ;  but  for  man}'  reasons  it  is  supposed  to  be 
considerable,  and  includes  some  officers  whom  they  lament,  besides  Adjutant 
Campbell.  Ours,  by  the  best  information  we  can  obtain,  is  27  killed,  and  19 
wounded.  As  many  of  our  dead  upon  examination  appeared  to  have  been  woun- 
ded with  shot,  but  not  mortally,  and  afterwards  to  have  been  killed  with  bayo- 
nets, this  demonstrated  the  true  reason  why  the  number  of  the  dead  exceeded 
that  of  the  wounded  to  be,  that  being  wounded  and  falling  into  the  enemy's 
hands,  they  were  afterwards  killed.  A  further  confirmation  of  this  charge  is, 
that  we  have  full  and  direct  testimony,  which  affirms  that  General  Garth  declared 
to  one  of  our  militia,  who  was  wounded  and  taken,  that  "he  was  sorry  his  men 
had  not  killed  him,  instead  of  taking  him  ;  and  that  he  would  not  have  his  men 
give  quarter  to  one  militia  man,  taken  in  arms." 

Although  in  this  expedition,  it  must  be  confessed  to  the  credit  of  the  Britons 
that  they  have  not  clone  all  the  mischief  in  their  power,  yet,  the  brutal  ravishment 
of  women,  the  wanton  and  malicious  destruction  of  property,  the  burning  of  the 
stores  upon  the  wharf,  and  eight  houses  in  East  Haven  ;  the  beating,  stabbing, 
and  insulting  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Daggett,  after  he  wras  made  a  prisoner,  the  mortally 
wounding  of  Mr.  Beers,  senior,  in  his  own  door,  and  otherways  abusing  him  ; 
the  murdering  of  the  very  aged  and  helpless  Mr.  English  in  his  own  house,  and 
the  beating  and  finally  cutting  out  the  tongue  of  and  then  killing  a  distracted 
man,  are  sufficient  proofs  that  they  were  really  Britons. 

HARTFORD, 

The  other  capital,  and  the  second  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Connecticut  River,  36  miles  northeast  of  New 
Haven,  124  miles  southwest  of  Boston,  and  112  miles  northeast  of 
New  York.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  lies  East  Hartford, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  long  covered  bridge  1000  feet  long. 
The  city  is  about  2  miles  long  by  1 J  miles  broad,  and  extends  length- 
wise along  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  is  laid  off  regularly  in  some 
places,  and  irregularly  in  others.  Main  street,  the  principal  thorough- 
fare, is  broad  and  well  built  up,  and  contains  the  majority  of  the 
prominent  buildings.  The  houses  are  mostly  of  brick  or  freestone, 
and  render  the  general  appearance  of  the  place  very  handsome.  The 
city  contains  about  25  churches,  several  fine  libraries,  12  or  13  banks, 
and  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Connecticut  River,  and  is  lighted 
with  gas.  A  street  railway  connects  its  various  points.  The  public 
schools  are  numerous  and  are  of  a  high  character.  There  are  also 
several  fine  institutions  of  learning  in  the  city,  the  principal  of  which 
is  Trinity  College,  founded  in  1823.  It  has  three  handsome  edifices 
of  freestone,  a  fine  library,  apparatus,  and  cabinet,  and  ranks  high 
amongst  the  educational  institutions  of  the  land.  The  Asylum  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  the  Retreat  for  the  Insane,  and  the  Hartford 
Hospital  are  noble  institutions,  and  are  amongst  the  most  prominent 


312  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ornaments  of  the  city.  The  old  Charter  Oak  was  until  1856,  when 
it  was  blown  down  by  a  storm,  one  of  the  attractions  of  the  city. 
There  are  12  banks  in  Hartford,  which  is  also  the  central  point  of  a 
number  of  insurance  companies,  possessing  a  capital  of  between  fifteen 
and  twenty  millions  of  dollars.  A  number  of  large  book  publishing 
houses  are  located  here.  In  1868  the  gross  amount  employed  in  this 
business  amounted  to  several  millions  of  dollars. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall  and  the  State 
House.  The  former  is  a  handsome  building,  the  lower  part  of  which 
is  used  as  a  market-house.  The  State  House  is  the  finest  building  in 
the  State.  It  is  surmounted  with  a  cupola,  and  is  50  feet  in  width, 
50  in  height,  and  130  in  length. 

Hartford  has  railroad  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  Union, 
and,  except  in  the  severe  season  of  winter,  when  it  ,'js  closed  by  ice, 
the  Connecticut  is  navigable  for  steamers.  The  city  is  extensively 
engaged  in  manufactures.  The  capital  employed  in  them  is  over 
$10,000,000.  Fire-arms  and  hardware  of  various  kinds  constitute 
the  principal  articles  produced.  The  celebrated  manufactory  of  the 
late  Colonel  Colt,  the  inventor  of  the  "  Colt  Revolver/'  is  located 
here.  There  are  12  newspapers  published  in  the  city.  The  popula- 
tion is  37,180,  and  is  increasing. 

Hartford  was  permanently  settled  by  the  English  in  1635.  The 
following  is  an  abstract  from  some  of  the  first  laws  of  the  town  : 

1635. — It  is  ordered,  that  there  shall  be  a  guard  of  ...  men,  to  attend 
with  their  arms  fixed,  and  two  shot  of  powder  and  shot,  at  least,  .  .  .  every 
public  meeting  for  religious  use,  with  two  sergeants  to  oversee  the  same,  and  to 
keep  out  one  of  them  sentinel  ....  and  the  said  guard  to  be  freed  from 
boarding,  and  to  have  seats  provided  near  the  meeting  house  door,  and  the  ser- 
geants repair  to  the  magistrates  for  a  warrant  for  the  due  execution  thereof. 

It  is  ordered,  that  every  inhabitant  which  hath  not  freedom  from  the  whole  to 
be  absent,  shall  make  his  personal  appearance  at  every  general  meeting  of  the 
whole  town,  having  sufficient  warning  ;  and  whosoever  fails  to  appear  at  the  time 
and  place  appointed,  shall  pay  sixpence  for  every  such  default ;  but  if  he  shall 
have  lawful  excuse,  it  shall  be  repaid  him  again  ;  or  whosoever  departs  awray 
from  the  meeting  before  it  be  ended,  without  liberty  from  the  whole,  shall  pay 
the  likewise. 

It  is  ordered,  that  whosoever  borrows  the  town  chain,  shall  pay  two  pence  a 
day,  for  every  day  they  keep  the  same,  and  pay  for  mending,  if  it  be  broken  in 
their  use. 

It  is  ordered,  that  there  shall  be  a  set  meeting  of  all  the  townsmen  together  the 
first  Thursday  of  every  month,  by  nine  o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  so  that  if  any  in- 
habitant have  any  business  with  them,  he  may  repair  unto  them  ;  and  whosoever 
of  them  do  not  meet  at  the  time  and  place  set,  to  forfeit  two  shillings  and  sixpence 
for  every  default. 


CONNECTICUT.  313 

The  17th  September,  1640.—  It  is  ordered,  that  ....  Woodward  shall 
spend  his  time  about  killing  of  wolves,  and  for  his  encouragement  he  shall  have 
four  shillings  and  sixpence  for  his  board,  in  case  he  kill  not  a  wolf,  or  a  deer  in 
the  week  ;  but  if  he  kill  a  wolf  or  a  deer,  he  is  to  pay  for  his  board  himself ;  and 
if  he  kill  ....  to  have  it  for  two  pence  a  pound.  This  order  is  made  for 
a  month  before  he  begins.  It  is  further  ordered,  that  if  any  person  hath  lost  any 
thing  that  he  desireth  should  be  cried  in  a  public  meeting,  he  shall  pay  for  crying 
of  it  two  pence  to  Thomas  Woodford,  to  be  paid  before  it  be  cried  ;  and  the  crier 
shall  have  a  book  of  the  things  that  he  crieth.  ' 

At  a  general  Town  Meeting  in  April,  1643 — It  was  ordered,  that  Mr.  Andrews 
should  teach  the  children  in  the  school  one  year  next  ensuing,  from  the  25th  of 
March,  1G43,  and  that  he  shall  have  for  his  pains  £16  ;  and  therefore  the  towns- 
men shall  go  and  inquire  who  will  engage  themselves  to  send  their  children  ;  and 
all  that  do  so  shall  pay  for  one  quarter  at  the  least,  and  for  more  if  they  do  send 
them,  after  the  proportion  of  twenty  shillings  the  year  ;  and  if  they  go  any  weeks 
more  than  an  even  quarter,  they  shall  pay  sixpence  a  week ;  and  if  any  would 
send  their  children,  and  are  not  able  to  pay  for  their  teaching,  they  shall  give 
notice  of  it  to  the  townsmen,  and  they  shall  pay  it  at  the  town's  charge  ;  and  Mr. 
Andrews  shall  keep  the  account  between  the  children's  schooling  arid  himself, 
and  send  notice  of  the  times  of  payment  and  demand  it ;  and  if  his  wages  doth 
not  come  in  so,  then  the  townsmen  must  collect  and  pay  it ;  or  if  the  engage- 
ments come  not  to  sixteen  pounds,  then  they  shall  pay  what  is  wanting,  at  the 
town's  charges. 

At  a  general  Town  Meeting,  October  30th,  1643 — It  was  ordered,  that  if  any 
boy  shall  be  taken  playing,  or  misbehaving  himself,  in  the  time  of  public  services, 
whether  in  the  meeting  house  or  about  the  walls  ....  by  two  witnesses, 
for  the  first  time  shall  be  examined  and  punished  at  the  present,  publicly,  before 
the  assembly  depart ;  and  if  any  shall  be  the  second  time  taken  faulty,  on  witness, 
shall  be  accounted  ....  Further,  it  is  ordered,  if  the  parents  or  master 
shall  desire  to  correct  his  boy,  he  shall  have  liberty  the  first  time  to  do  the  same. 

It  was  further  ordered,  in  the  same  general  meeting,  that  there  should  be  a  bell 
rung  by  the  watch  every  morning,  an  hour  before  daybreak,  and  that  they  are 
appointed  by  the  constables  for  that  purpose  ;  shall  begin  at  the  bridge,  and  so 
ring  the  bell  all  the  way  forth  and  back  from  Master  Moody 's  (Wyllys  \\i\\)  to 
John  Pratt' s  ....  and  that  they  shall  be  in  every  house,  one  up,  and 
.  .  .  .  some  lights  within  one  quarter  of  an  hour  after  the  end  of  the  bell 
ringing  ....  if  they  can  ....  the  bell  is  rung  before  the  time  ap- 
pointed, then  to  be  up  with  lights  as  before  mentioned,  half  an  hour  before  day- 
break, and  for  default  herein  is  to  forfeit  one  shilling  and  sixpence,  to  be  to  him 
that  finds  him  faulty,  and  sixpence  to  the  town. 

The  other  cities  of  the  State  are  as  follows :  Norwich,  at  the  head 
of  navigation,  on  the  Thames  River.  It  has  a  population  of  16,653, 
is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railroad,  and  is  the  ter- 
minus of  a  line  of  steamers  from  New  York.  It  is  actively  engaged 
in  commerce  and  manufactures.  Bridgeport,  on  Long  Island  Sound, 
has  19,876  inhabitants,  and  is  connected  with  New  York  by  steam- 
boat, and  is  on  the  line  of  the  New  York  and  New  Haven  Railway. 


314  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

It  is  largely  engaged  in  manufactures.  Waterbury,  on  the  Naugatuck 
Railway,  20  .miles  from  New  Haven,  is  an  important  place  for  the 
manufacture  of  brass,  German  silver,  buttons,  and  other  small  articles. 
It  contains  a  population  of  10,876.  New  London,  on  the  Thames 
River,  has  9756  inhabitants.  It  is  a  thriving  manufacturing  place, 
and  is  actively  engaged  in  commerce,  both  foreign  and  domestic, 
having  the  best  harbor  in  the  State.  Norwalk,  on  Long  Island  Sound, 
on  the  line  of  the  New  York  and  New  Haven  Railway,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  about  15,000,  and  is  extensively  engaged  in  maufactures. 
Middletown,  on  the  Connecticut  River  (35  miles  from  its  mouth),  and 
West  Meriden,  on  the  Hartford  and  New  Haven  Railway  (16  miles 
from  New  Haven),  each  has  a  population  of  10,000 ;  they  are  grow- 
ing manufacturing  cities. 

MISCELLANIES. 

THE    BLUE    LAWS    OF    CONNECTICUT. 

The  following  is  a  transcript  of  the  principal  part  of  the  celebrated  judicial 
code,  known  as  the  Blue  Laws,  by  which  it  is  said  the  first  colonists  of  Connecti- 
cut were  governed  for  a  considerable  time.  Some  writers  have  questioned  the 
genuineness  of  the  laws,  and  it  seems  certain  that,  if  genuine,  the  code  was  never 
written,  but  was  declared  and  interpreted  by  the  select  men,  the  judges,  and  the 
pastors  of  the  different  congregations  : 

The  Governor  and  magistrates,  convened  in  general  assembly,  are  the  supreme 
power,  under  God,  of  this  independent  dominion. 

From  the  determination  of  the  assembly  no  appeal  shall  be  made. 

The  Governor  is  amenable  to  the  voice  of  the  people. 

The  Governor  shall  have  only  a  single  vote  in  determining  any  question,  ex- 
cept a  casting  vote  when  the  assembly  may  be  equally  divided. 

The  assembly  of  the  people  shall  not  be  dismissed  by  the  Governor,  but  shall 
dismiss  itself. 

Conspiracy  against  this  dominion  shall  be  punished  with  death. 

Whoever  attempts  to  change  or  overturn  this  dominion,  shall  suffer  death. 

The  judges  shall  determine  controversies  without  a  jury. 

No  one  shall  be  a  freeman,  or  give  a  vote,  unless  he  be  converted,  or  a  member 
in  free  communion  in  one  of  the  churches  in  this  dominion. 

No  food  or  lodging  shall  be  afforded  to  a  Quaker,  Adamite,  or  other  heretic. 

No  one  shall  cross  a  river  without  an  authorized  ferryman. 

No  one  shall  run  of  a  Sabbath  day,  or  walk  in  his  garden,  or  elsewhere,  except 
reverently  to  and  from  the  church. 

No  one  shall  travel,  cook  victuals,  make  beds,  sweep  houses,  cut  hair,  or  shave, 
on  the  Sabbath  day. 

No  woman  shall  kiss  her  child  on  the  Sabbath  or  fasting  day. 

A  person  accused  of  trespass  in  the  night,  shall  be  judged  guilty,  unless  he 
clear  himself  by  his  oath. 

No  one  shall  buy  or  sell  lands  without  permission  of  the  select  men. 


CONNECTICUT.  315 

Whoever  publishes  a  lie  to  the  prejudice  of  his  neighbor,  shall  sit  in  the  stocks, 
or  be  whipped  fifteen  stripes. 

Whoever  wears  clothes  trimmed  with  silver,  or  bone  lace,  above  two  shillings 
a  yard,  shall  be  presented  by  the  grand  jurors,  and  the  select  men  shall  tax  the 
offender  at  the  rate  of  300Z.  estate. 

Whoever  brings  cards  or  dice  into  this  dominion  shall  pay  a  fine  of  5?. 

No  one  shall  read  Common  Prayer,  keep  Christmas  or  Saint's  day,  make 
minced  pies,  dance,  play  cards,  or  play  on  any  instrument  of  music,  except  the 
drum,  the  trumpet,  and  jews-harp. 

When  parents  refuse  their  children  suitable  marriages,  the  magistrates  shall 
determine  the  point. 

The  select  men,  on  finding  children  ignorant,  may  take  them  away  from  their 
parents  and  put  them  into  better  hands,  at  the  expense  of  the  parents. 

A  man  that  strikes  his  wife  shall  pay  a  fine  of  10Z. ;  a  woman  that  strikes  her 
husband  shall  be  punished  as  the  court  directs. 

Married  persons  must  live  together,  or  be  imprisoned. 

Every  male  shall  have  his  hair  cut  round  according  to  a  cap. 

THE    REGICIDES. 

Soon  after  the  restoration -of  monarchy  in  England,  many  of  the  judges  who 
had  condemned  King  Charles  I.  to  death,  were  apprehended.  Thirty  were  con- 
demned, and  ten  were  executed  as  traitors ;  two  of  them,  Colonels  Goffe  and 
Whalley,  made  their  escape  to  New  England,  and  arrived  at  Boston,  July,  1660. 
They  were  gentlemen  of  worth,  and  were  much  esteemed  by  the  colonists  for 
their  unfeigned  piety.  Their  manners  and  appearance  were  dignified,  command- 
ing universal  respect.  Whalley  had  been  a  Lieutenant-General,  and  Goffe  a 
Major-General  in  Cromwell's  army.  An  order  for  their  apprehension,  from 
Charles  II.,  reached  New  England  soon  after  their  arrival.  The  king's  commis- 
sioners, eager  to  execute  this  order,  compelled  the  judges  to  resort  to  the  woods 
and  caves,  and  other  hiding  places  ;  and  they  would  undoubtedly  have  teen  taken, 
had  not  the  colonists  secretly  aided  and  ''assisted  them  in  their  concealments. 
Sometimes  they  found  a  refuge  in  a  cave  on  a  mountain  near  New  Haven,  and  at 
others,  in  cellars  of  the  houses  of  their  friends,  and  once  they  were  secreted  un- 
der the  Neck  bridge,  in  New  Haven,  while  their  pursuers  crossed  the  bridge  on 
horseback. 

While  in  New  Haven,  they  owed  their  lives  to  the  intrepidity  of  Mr.  Daven- 
port, the  minister  of  the  place,  who,  when  the  pursuers  arrived,  preached  to  the 
people  from  this  text :  "Take  council,  execute  judgment,  make  thy  shadow  as  the 
night  in  the  midst  of  the  noonday,  hide  the  outcasts,  bewray  not  him  that  wandereth. 
Let  my  outcasts  dwell  with  thee.  Moab,  be  thou  a  covert  to  them  from  the  face  of 
the  spoiler.'11  Large  rewards  were  offered  for  their  apprehension,  or  for  any  in- 
formation which  might  lead  to  it.  Mr.  Davenport  was  threatened,  for  it  was 
known  that  he  had  harbored  them.  Upon  hearing  that  he  was  in  danger,  they 
offered  to  deliver  themselves  up,  and  actually  gave  notice  to  the  deputy  governor 
of  the  place  of  their  concealment ;  but  Davenport  had  not  preached  in  vain,  and 
the  magistrate  took  no  other  notice  than  to  advise  them  not  to  betray  themselves. 
After  lurking  about  for  two  or  three  years  in  and  near  New  Haven,  they  found 
it  necessary  to  remove  to  Hadley,  where  they  were  received  by  Mr.  Russell,  with 
whom  they  were  concealed  fifteen  or  sixteen  years.  After  many  hairbreadth  es- 


316  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

capes,  the  pursuit  was  given  over,  and  they  were  finally  suffered  to  die  a  natural 
death  in  their  exile. 

The  following  interesting  incident  is  related  in  connection  with  the  sojourn  of 
the  Regicides  in  Connecticut : 

In  the  course  of  Philip's  war,  which  involved  almost  all  the  Indian  tribes  in 
New  England,  and,  among  others,  those  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  town,  the 
inhabitants  thought  it  proper  to  observe  the  1st  of  September,  1675,  as  a  day  of 
fasting  and  prayer.  While  they  were  in  the  church,  and  employed  in  their  wor- 
ship, they  were  surprised  by  a  band  of  savages.  The  people  instantly  betook 
themselves  to  their  arms,  which,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  times,  they  had  car- 
ried with  them  to  the  church  ;  and,  rushing  out,  attacked  the  invaders.  The  panic 
under  which  they  began  the  conflict  was,  however,  so  great,  and  their  number 
was  so  disproportioned  to  that  of  their  enemies,  that  they  fought  doubtfully  at 
first,  and  in  a  short  time  began  evidently  to  give  way.  At  this  moment,  an 
ancient  man,  with  hoary  locks,  of  a  most  venerable  and  dignified  aspect,  and  in 
address  widely  differing  from  that  of  the  inhabitants,  appeared  suddenly  at  their 
head,  and  witli  a  firm  voice  and  an  example  of  undaunted  resolution,  reanimated 
their  courage,  led  them  again  to  the  conflict,  and  totally  routed  the  savages. 
When  the  battle  was  ended,  the  stranger  disappeared,  and  no  one  knew  whence 
he  had  come,  or  whither  he  had  gone.  The  relief  was  so  timely,  so  sudden,  so 
unexpected,  so  providential ;  the  appearance  and  retreat  of  him,  who  had  fur- 
nished it,  were  so  unaccountable  ;  his  person  was  so  dignified  and  commanding, 
his  resolution  so  superior,  and  his  interference  so  decisive,  that  the  inhabitants, 
without  any  uncommon  exercise  of  credulit}',  readily  believed  him  to  be  an  angel 
sent  from  heaven  for  their  preservation.  Nor  was  this  opinion  seriously  contro- 
verted, until  it  was  discovered,  years  afterwards,  that  Goffe  and  Whalley  had 
been  lodged  in  the  house  of  Mr.  Russell.  Then  it  was  known  that  their  deliverer 
was  Goffe ;  Whalley  having  become  superannuated  some  time  before  the  event 
took  place.  There  is  an  obscure  and  very  doubtful  tradition,  that  Goffe  also  was 
buried  here. 

PENALTY    FOR    KISSING. 

In  1654,  a  trial  took  place  in  Connecticut,  under  the  section  of  the  "Blue 
Laws"  prohibiting  kissing.  The  culprits  were  Sarah  Tuttle  and  Jacob  Newton. 
It  seems  that  Sarah  dropped  her  gloves,  and  Jacob  found  them.  When  Sarah 
asked  for  them,  Jacob  demanded  a  kiss  for  his  pay,  and  Sarah,  not  thinking  the 
charge  extortionate,  paid  it  in  full.  Complaint  was  made  by  some  sour-tempered 
individual,  and  the  guilty  parties  were  arraigned  before  the  magistrate.  The 
facts  were  clearly  proved,  and  the  parties  were  each  fined  twenty  shillings. 

THE    DARK    DAY. 

The  19th  of  May,  1680,  was  remarkable  for  the  intense  darkness  which  pre- 
vailed throughout  the  New  England  colonies.  At  this  time  the  Legislature  of 
Connecticut  was  in  session  in  Hartford.  A  very  general  opinion  prevailed,  that 
the  day  of  judgment  was  at  hand.  The  House  of  Representatives,  being  unable 
to  transact  their  business,  adjourned.  A  proposal  to  adjourn  the  council  was 
under  consideration.  When  the  opinion  of  Colonel  Davenport  was  asked,  he 
answered,  "I  am  against  an  adjournment.  The  day  of  judgment  is  either  ap« 


CONNECTICUT.  317 

preaching,  or  it  is  not.  If  it  is  not,  there  is  no  cause  for  an  adjournment ;  if  it 
is,  I  choose  to  be  found  doing  rny  duty.  I  wish  therefore  that  candles  may  be 
brought." 

AMERICAN    INDEPENDENCE. 

The  people  of  Connecticut  resolved  to  maintain  their  independence  of  the  Duke 
of  York,  as  their  charter  was  of  prior  date  to  that  of  the  Duke.  Detachments  of 
militia  were  therefore  ordered  to  New  London  and  Saybrook,  the  troops  at  Say- 
brook  being  placed  under  the  command  of  Captain  Thomas  Bull,  of  Hartford. 

Early  in  July,  1675,  the  people  of  Saybrook  were  surprised  by  the  appearance 
of  Major  Anclros,  with  an  armed  force,  in  the  Sound,  making  directly  for  the  fort. 
They  had  received  no  intelligence  of  the  hostile  expedition  of  Andros,  and  having 
no  instructions  from  the  Governor,  were  undecided  what  course  to  take,  when, 
at  a  critical  juncture,  Captain  Bull  with  his  company  arrived,  and  preparations 
were  at  once  made  for  the  defence  of  the  fort  and  town.  The  assembly  met  at 
Hartford  on  the  9th  of  July,  and  immediately  drew  up  a  protest  against  the  pro- 
ceedings of  Andros,  which  they  sent  by  express  to  Saybrook,  with  instructions 
to  Captain  Bull  to  propose  to  Andros  a  reference  of  the  dispute  to  commissioners. 

On  the  llth,  Major  Anclros,  with  several  armed  sloops,  drew  up  before  the 
fort,  hoisted  the  king's  flag  on  board,  and  demanded  a  surrender  of  the  fortress 
and  town.  Captain  Bull  immediately  raised  His  Majesty's  colors  in  the  fort,  and 
arranged  his  men  in  the  best  manner  possible.  The  major  did  not  like  to  fire  on 
the  king's  colors,  and  perceiving  that,  should  he  attempt  to  reduce  the  town  by 
force,  it  would  in  all  likelihood  be  a  bloody  affair,  he  judged  it  expedient  not  to 
fire  upon  the  troops. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  12th  of  July,  Andros  desired  that  he  might  have 
permission  to  land  on  the  shore,  for  the  purpose  of  an  interview  with  the  minis- 
ters and  chief  officers  of  the  town.  He  probably  flattered  himself  that  if  he  could 
obtain  a  foothold  upon  the  soil,  and  then  read  the  Duke's  patent,  and  his  own 
commission,  to  the  people,  it  would  make  a  serious  impression  upon  them,  and 
that  he  would  be  able  to  gain  by  artifice  that  which  he  could  never  accomplish 
by  force  of  arms.  He  was  allowed  to  come  on  shore  with  his  suite.  Captain 
Bull  and  his  officers,  with  the  officers  and  gentlemen  of  the  town,  met  him  at  his 
landing,  and  informed  him  that  they  had,  at  that  instant,  received  instructions 
to  tender  him  a  treaty,  and  to  refer  the  whole  matter  in  controversy  to  commis- 
sioners, capable  of  determining  it  according  to  law  and  justice.  Major  Andros 
rejected  the  proposal  at  once,  and  forthwith  commanded,  in  His  Majesty's  name, 
that  the  Duke's  patent,  and  the  commission  which  he  had  received  from  His 
Royal  Highness,  should  be  read.  Captain  Bull,  comprehending  at  once  the  arti- 
fice of  Andros,  commanded  him,  in  His  Majesty's  name,  to  forbear  the  reading. 
And  when  his  clerk  attempted  to  persist  in  reading,  Captain  Bull  repeated  his 
command,  with  such  energy  of  voice  and  manner  as  convinced  the  major  that  it 
might  not  be  altogether  safe  for  him  to  proceed. 

The  Yankee  captain,  having  succeeded  in  silencing  the  valiant  representative 
of  the  Duke,  next  informed  him  that  he  had  a  communication  to  deliver  from  the 
assembly,  and  he  then  read  the  protest.  Governor  Andros,  affecting  to  be  well 
pleased  with  the  bold  and  soldier-like  appearance  of  his  opponent,  asked,  "  What 
is  your  name  ?  "  He  replied,  "My  name  is  Bull,  sir." — "  Bull !  "  exclaimed  the 
governor.  "It  is  a  pity  that  your  horns  are  not  tipped  with  silver."  Finding 
that  he  could  make  no  impression  upon  the  officers  or  people,  and  that  the  Legis- 


318  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

lature  of  the  colony  were  determined  to  defend  themselves  in  the  possession  of 
their  chartered  rights,  Andros  prudently  gave  up  his  design  of  seizing  the  fort. 
The  militia  of  the  town  courteously  guarded  him  to  his  boat,  and,  going  on  board, 
he  soon  sailed  for  New  York,  and  Connecticut  was  no  more  troubled  by  his  pres- 
ence or  interference  until  after  the  accession  of  James  the  Second. 


ELECTION    DAY    IN    THE    OLDEN    TIME. 

Previous  to  the  adoption  of  the  Constitution  of  1819,  the  freemen  of  the  State 
met  annually  at  Hartford  on  the  first  Wednesday  in  May,  to  choose  State  officers. 
The  following  description  of  the  counting  of  the  votes,  and  the  inauguration  of 
the  Governor,  is  taken  form  "  Kendall's  Travels,"  published  in  1808  : 

I  reached  Hartford  at  noon,  on  Wednesday,  the  19th  of  May,  1807.  The  city 
is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  50  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  governor, 
whose  family  residence  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  at  some  distance  from 
Hartford,  was  expected  to  arrive  in  the  evening.  This  gentleman,  whose  name 
is  Jonathan  Trumbull,  is  the  son  of  the  late  Governor  Jonathan  Trumbull ;  and 
though  the  election  is  annual,  he  has  himself  been  three  or  four  years  in  office, 
and  will  almost  certainly  so  continue  during  the  remainder  of  his  life.  It  was 
known  that  the  votes  at  this  time  were  in  his  favor. 

The  governor  has  volunteer  companies  of  guards,  both  horse  and  foot.  In  the 
afternoon  the  horse  were  drawn  up  on  the  bank  of  the  river  to  receive  him,  and 
escort  him  to  his  lodgings.  He  came  before  sunset,  and  the  fineness  of  the  even- 
ing, the  beauty  of  the  river,  the  respectable  appearance  of  the  governor,  and  of 
the  troop,  the  dignity  of  the  occasion,  and  the  decorum  observed,  united  to 
gratify  the  spectators.  The  color  of  the  clothes  of  the  troops  was  blue.  The 
governor,  though  on  horseback,  was  dressed  in  black,  but  he  wore'a  cockade  in 
a  hat,  which  I  did  not  like  the  less,  because  it  was  in  the  form  rather  of  the  old 
school  than  of  the  new. 

In  the  morning  the  foot  guards  were  paraded  in  front  of  the  State  House,  where 
they  afterwards  remained  under  arms,  while  the  troop  of  horse  occupied  the 
street  which  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  building.  The  clothing  of  the  foot  was 
scarlet,  with  white  waistcoats  and  pantaloons ;  and  their  appearance  and  demeanor 
were  military. 

The  day  was  fine,  and  the  apartments  and  galleries  of  the  State  House  afforded 
an  agreeable  place  of  meeting,  in  which  the  members  of  the  Assembly  and  others 
awaited  the  coming  of  the  governor.  At  about  11  o'clock  his  excellency  entered 
the  State  House,  and  shortly  after  took  his  place  at  the  head  of  a  procession, 
which  was  made  to  a  meeting-house  or  church,  at  something  less  than  half  a  mile 
distant.  The  procession  was  on  foot,  and  was  composed  of  the  person  of  the 
governor,  together  with  the  lieutenant-governor,  assistants,  high  sheriffs,  mem- 
bers of  the  lower  house  of  the  assembly,  and,  unless  with  accidental  exceptions, 
all  the  clergy  of  the  State.  It  was  preceded  by  the  foot  guards,  and  followed  by 
the  horse  ;  and  attended  by  gazers,  that,  considering  the  size  and  population  of 
the  city,  may  be  said  to  have  been  numerous.  The  church,  which  from  its  situ- 
ation is  called  the  South  Meeting  House,  is  a  small  one,  and  was  resorted  to  on 
this  occasion  only  because  that  more  ordinarily  used  was  at  this  time  rebuilding. 
The  edifice  is  of  wood,  alike  unornamented  within  and  without ;  and  when  filled, 
Miere  was  still  presented  to  the  eye  nothing  but  what  had  the  plainest  appearance. 


CONNECTICUT.  319 

The  military  remained  in  the  street,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  officers,  to 
whom  no  place  of  honor  or  distinction  was  assigned  ;  neither  the  governor  nor 
other  magistrates  were  accompanied  with  any  insignia  of  office  ;  the  clergy  had 
no  canonical  costume,  and  there  were  no  females  in  the  church,  except  a  few 
(rather  more  than  twenty  in  number),  who  were  stationed  by  themselves  in  a 
gallery  opposite  the  pulpit,  in  quality  of  singers.  A  decent  order  was  the  highest 
characteristic  that  presented  itself. 

The  pulpit,  or,  as  it  is  here  called,  the  desk,  was  filled  by  three,  if  not  four, 
clergymen ;  a  number  by  its  form  and  dimensions  it  was  able  to  accommodate. 
Of  these,  one  opened  the  service  with  a  prayer,  another  delivered  a  sermon,  a 
third  made  a  concluding  prayer,  and  a  fourth  pronounced  a  benediction.  Seve- 
ral hymns  were  sung  ;  and  among  others  an  occasional  one.  The  total  number 
of  singers  was  between  forty  and  fifty. 

The  sermon,  as  will  be  supposed,  touched  upon  matters  of  government.  When 
all  was  finished,  the  procession  returned  to  the  State  House.  The  clergy  who 
walked  were  about  a  hundred  in  number. 

It  was  in  the  two  bodies  of  guards  alone  that  any  suitable  approach  to  magni- 
ficence discovered  itself.  The  governor  was  full  dressed,  in  a  suit  of  black  ;  but 
the  lieutenant-governor  wore  riding  boots.  All,  however,  was  consistently  plain, 
and  in  unison  with  itself,  except  the  dress  swords,  which  were  worn  by  high 
sheriffs,  along  with  their  village  habilaments,  and  of  which  the  fashion  and  the 
materials  were  marvellously  diversified.  Arrived  in  front  of  the  State  House,  the 
military  formed  on  each  side  of  the  street ;  and,  as  the  governor  passed  them, 
presented  arms.  The  several  parts  of  the  procession  now  separated,  each  to  a 
dinner  prepared  for  itself  at  an  adjoining  inn  ;  the  governor,  lieutenant-governor, 
and  assistants  to  their  table,  the  clergy  to  a  second,  and  the  representatives  to  a 
third.  The  time  of  day  was  about  two  in  the  afternoon. 

Only  a  short  time  elapsed  before  business  was  resumed,  or  rather  at  length 
commenced.  The  General  Assembly  met  in  the  council  room,  and  the  written 
votes  being  examined  and  counted,  the  names  of  the  public  officers  elected  were 
formally  declared.  They  were  in  every  instance  the  same  as  those  which  had 
been  successful  the  preceding  year. 

This  done,  the  lieutenant-governor  administered  the  oath  to  the  governor  elect, 
who,  being  sworn,  proceeded  to  administer  their  respective  oaths  to  the  lieuten- 
ant-governor and  the  rest ;  and  here  terminated  the  affairs  of  the  election  day. 
Soon  after  C  o'clock,  the  military  fired  three  feu  dejoies,  and  were  then  dismissed. 

On  the  evening  following  that  of  election  day,  there  is  an  annual  ball  at  Hart- 
ford, called  the  election  ball ;  and  on  the  succeding  Monday,  a  second,  which  is 
more  select.  The  election  day  is  a  holiday  throughout  the  State  ;  and  even  the 
whole  remainder  of  the  week  is  regarded  in  a  similar  light.  Servants  and  others 
are  now  indemnified  for  the  loss  of  the  festivals  of  Christmas,  Easter,  and  Whit- 
suntide, which  the  principles  of  their  church  deny  them.  Families  exchange 
visits,  and  treat  their  guests  with  slices  of  election  cake  ;  and  thus  preserve  some 
portion  of  the  luxuries  of  the  forgotten  feast  of  the  Epiphany. 


PART    III. 
THE  MIDDLE  STATES. 


21 


NEW   YORK. 

Area, 47,000  'Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 3,880,735 

Population  in  1870, ,    .    . 4,382,759 

IN  population,  wealth,  and  variety  of  resources,  New  York  is  the 
first  State  in  the  Union.  It  is  situated  between  40°  29'  40"  and 
45°  0'  42"  N.  latitude,  and  between  71°  51'  and  79°  47'  25"  W. 
longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Canada  and  Lake  Onta- 
rio; on  the  east  by  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  and  Connecticut;  on 
the  south  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  New  Jersey,  and  Pennsylvania ;  and 
on  the  west  by  Pennsylvania,  Lake  Erie,  Lake  Ontario,  and  Canada. 

TOPOGRAPHY, 

The  following  admirable  sketch  of  the  topographical  features  of  the 
State  is  taken  from  French's  "  Gazetteer  of  the  State  of  New  York  : " 

"  Surface. — This  State  lies  upon  that  portion  of  the  Appalachian 
Mountain  system  where  the  mountains  generally  assume  the  character 
of  hills,  and  finally  sink  to  a  level  of  the  low-lands  that  surround  the 
great  depression  filled  by  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 
Three  distinct  mountain  masses  or  ranges  enter  the  State  from  the 
south  and  extend  across  it  in  a  generally  northeast  direction.  The 
first  or  most  easterly  of  these  ranges — a  continuation  of  the  Blue 
Ridge  of  Virginia — enters  the  State  from  New  Jersey,  and  extends 
northeast  through  Rockland  and  Orange  counties  to  the  Hudson,  ap- 
pears on  the  east  side  of  that  river,  and  forms  the  highlands  of  Put- 
nam and  Dutchess  counties.  A  northerly  extension  of  the  same  moun- 
tains passes  into  the  Green  Mountains  of  western  Massachusetts  and 
Vermont.  This  range  culminates  in  the  highlands  upon  the  Hud- 

323 


324 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SCENE    IN    THE    CATSKILL    MOUNTAINS. 

son.  The  highest  peaks  are  1000  to  1700  feet  above  tide.  .  .  .  The 
deep  gorge  formed  by  the  Hudson  in  passing  through  this  range  pre- 
sents some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  America,  and  has  often  been  com- 
pared to  the  celebrated  valley  of  the  Rhine. 

"  The  second  series  of  mountains  enters  the  State  from  Pennsylva- 
nia, and  extends  northeast  through  Sullivan,  Ulster,  and  Greene 
counties,  terminating  and  culminating  in  the  Catskill  Mountains 
upon  the  Hudson.  The  highest  peaks  are  3000  to  3800  feet  above 
tide;  the  Shawangunk  Mountains,  a  high  and  continuous  ridge  ex- 
tending between  Sullivan  and  Orange  counties  and  into  the  south 
part  of  Ulster,  is  the  extreme  east  range  of  this  series.  The  Helder- 
berg  and  Hellibark  Mountains  are  spurs  extending  north  from  the 
main  range  into  Albany  and  Schoharie  counties.  .  .  .  The  declivities 
are  steep  and  rocky ;  and  a  large  share  of  the  surface  is  too  rough  for 
cultivation.  The  highest  peaks  overlook  the  Hudson,  and  from  their 
summits  are  obtained  some  of  the  finest  views  in  eastern  New  York. 

"  The  third  series  of  mountains  enters  the  State  from  Pennsylvania 
and  extends  northeast  through  Broome,  Delaware,  Otsego,  Schoharie, 


NEW    YORK.  325 

Montgomery,  and  Herkimer  counties  to  the  Mohawk,  and  appears 
upon  the  north  side  of  that  river,  and  extends  northeast,  forming  the 
whole  series  of  highlands  that  occupy  the  northeast  part  of  the  State 
and  generally  known  as  the  Adirondack  Mountain  region.  South  of 
the  Mohawk,  this  mountain  system  assumes  the  form  of  broad,  irregu- 
lar hills,  occupying  a  wide  space  of  country.  It  is  broken  by  the 
deep  ravines  of  the  streams,  and  in  many  places  the  hills  are  steep 
and  nearly  precipitous.  The  valley  of  the  Mohawk  breaks  the  con- 
tinuity of  the  range,  though  the  connection  is  easily  traced  at  Little 
Falls,  the  Noses,  and  other  places.  North  of  the  Mohawk,  the  high- 
lands, extend  northeast  in  several  distinct  ranges,  all  terminating  upon 
Lake  Champlain.  The  culminating  point  of  the  whole  system,  and 
the  highest  mountain  in  the  State,  is  Mount  Marcy,  5467  feet  above 
the  tide.  The  mountains  are  usually  wild,  rugged,  and  rocky.  A 
large  share  of  the  surface  is  entirely  unfit  for  cultivation ;  but  the 
region  is  rich  in  minerals,  and  especially  in  an  excellent  variety  of 
iron  ore.  West  of  these  ranges,  series  of  hills  forming  spurs  of  the 
Alleghanies  enter  the  State^from  Pennsylvania,  and  occupy  the  entire 
south  half  of  the  western  part  of  the  State.  An  irregular  line  extend- 
ing through  the  southerly  counties,  forms  the  watershed  that  sepa- 
rates the  northern  and  southern  drainage;  and  from  it  the  surface 
gradually  declines  northward  until  it  finally  terminates  in  the  level 
of  Lake  Ontario.  The  portion  of  the  State  lying  south  of  this  water- 
shed, and  occupying  the  greater  part  of  the  two  southerly  tiers  of 
counties,  is  entirely  occupied  by  these  hills.  Along  the  Pennsylvania 
line  they  are  usually  abrupt  and  are  separated  by  narrow  ravines, 
but  toward  the  north  their  summits  become  broader  and  less  broken. 
A  considerable  portion  of  the  highland  region  is  too  steep  for  profita- 
ble cultivation,  and  is  best  adapted  to  grazing.  The  highest  summits 
in  Allegany  and  Cattaraugus  counties  are  2000  to  3000  feet  above  tide. 

"  From  the  summits  of  the  watershed  the  highlands  usually  descend 
toward  Lake  Ontario  in  series  of  terraces,  the  edges  of  which  are  the 
outcrops  of  the  different  rocks  which  underlie  the  surface.  These  ter- 
races are  usually  smooth,  and,  although  inclined  toward  the  north, 
the  inclination  is  generally  so  slight  that  they  appear  to  be  level. 
Between  the  hills  of  the  south  and  the  level  land  of  the  north  is  a 
beautiful  rolling  region,  the  ridges  gradually  declining  toward  the 
north.  In  that  part  of  the  State  south  of  the  most  eastern  mountain 
ringe  the  surface  is  generally  level  or  broken  by  low  hills.  In  New 
York  and  Westchester  counties,  these  hills  are  principally  composed 


326  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  primitive  rocks.  The  surface  of  Long  Island  is  generally  level  or 
gently  undulating.  A  ridge  150  to  200  feet  high,  composed  of  sand, 
gravel,  and  clay,  extends  east  and  west  across  the  island  north  of  the 
centre. 

"  Rivers  and  Lakes. — The  river  system  of  the  State  has  two  general 
divisions, — the  first  comprising  the  streams  tributary  to  the  great 
lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  second  those  which  flow  in  a 
generally  southerly  direction.  The  watershed  which  separates  these 
two  systems  extends  in  an  irregular  line  eastward  from  Lake  Erie 
through  the  southern  tier  of  counties  to  near  the  northeast  corner  of 
Chemung;  thence  it  turns  northeast  to  the  Adirondack  Mountains  in 
Essex  county,  thence  southeast  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  Lake 
George,  and  thence  nearly  due  east  to  the  eastern  line  of  the  State. 

"The  northerly  division  has  five  general  subdivisions.  The  most 
westerly  of  these  comprises  all  the  streams  flowing  into  Lake  Erie  and 
Niagara  River  and  those  flowing  into  Lake  Ontario  west  of  Genesee 
River.  In  Chautauqua  county  the  streams  are  short  and  rapid,  as 
the  watershed  approaches  within  a  few  miles  of  Lake  Erie.  Catta- 
raugus,  Buffalo,  Tonawanda,  and  Oak  Orchard  creeks  are  the  most 
important  streams  in  this  division.  Buffalo  Creek  is  chiefly  noted 
for  forming  Buffalo  Harbor  at  its  mouth  ;  and  the  Tonawanda  for  12 
miles  from  its  mouth  is  used  for  canal  navigation.  Oak  Orchard  and 
other  creeks  flowing  into  Lake  Ontario  descend  from  the  interior  in  a 
series  of  rapids,  affording  a  large  amount  of  water-power. 

"The  second  subdivision  comprises  the  Genesee  River  and  its  tribu- 
taries. The  Genesee  rises  in  the  north  part  of  Pennsylvania  and  flows 
in  a  generally  northerly  direction  to  Lake  Ontario.  Its  upper  course 
is  through  a  narrow  valley  bordered  by  steep,  rocky  hills.  Upon  the 
line  of  Wyoming  and  Livingston  counties  it  breaks  through  a  moun- 
tain barrier  in  a  deep  gorge  and  forms  the  Portage  Falls, — one  of  the 
finest  waterfalls  in  the  State.  Below  this  point  the  course  of  the  river 
is  through  a  beautiful  valley,  one  to  two  miles  wide  and  bordered  by 
banks  50  to  150  feet  high.  At  Rochester  it  flows  over  the  precipitous 
edges  of  the  Niagara  limestone,  forming  the  Upper  Genesee  Ealls  ; 
and  three  miles  below,  it  flows  over  the  edge  of  the  Medina  sandstone, 
forming  the  Lower  Genesee  Falls.  The  principal  tributaries  of  this 
stream  are  Canaseraga,  Honeoye,  and  Conesus  creeks  from  the  east, 
and  Oatka  and  Black  creeks  from  the  west.  Honeoye,  Canadice, 
Hemlock,  and  Conesus  lakes  lie  within  the  Genesee  Basin. 

"  The  third  subdivision  includes  the  Oswego  River  and  its  tribu- 


NEW    YORK.  327 

taries,  and  the  small  streams  flowing  into  Lake  Ontario  between  Gene- 
see  and  Oswego  rivers.  The  basin  of  the  Oswego  includes  most  of 
the  inland  lakes  which  form  a  peculiar  feature  of  the  landscape  in  the 
interior  of  the  State.  The  principal  of  these  lakes  are  Cayuga,  Seneca, 
Canandaigua,  Skaneateles,  Crooked,  and  Owasco, — all  occupying  long, 
narrow  valleys,  and  extending  from  the  level  land  in  the  centre  far 
into  the  highland  region  of  the  south.  The  valleys  which  they  occupy 
appear  like  immense  ravines  formed  by  some  tremendous  force,  which 
has  torn  the  solid  rocks  from  their  original  beds,  from  the  general 
level  of  the  surrounding  summits,  down  to  the  present  bottoms  of  the 
lakes.  Oneida  and  Onondaga  lakes  occupy  basins  upon  the  level 
land  in  the  northeast  part  of  the  Oswego  Basin.  Mud  Creek,  the 
most  westerly  branch  of  Oswego  River,  takes  its  rise  in  Ontario  county, 
flows  northeast  into  Wayne,  where  it  unites  with  Canandaigua  Outlet 
and  takes  the  name  of  Clyde  River ;  thence  it  flows  east  to  the  west 
line  of  Cayuga  county,  where  it  empties  into  Seneca  River.  This 
latter  stream,  made  up  of  the  outlets  of  Seneca  and  Cayuga  lakes, 
from  this  point  flows  in  a  northeast  course,  and  receives  successively 
the  outlets  of  Owasco,  Skaneateles,  Onondaga,  and  Oneida  lakes. 
From  the  mouth  of  the  last-named  stream  it  takes  the  name  Oswego 
River,  and  its  course  is  nearly  due  north  to  Lake  Ontario. 

"  The  fourth  subdivision  includes  the  streams  flowing  into  Lake  On- 
tario and  the  St.  Lawrence,  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego.  The 
principal  of  these  are  Salmon,  Black,  Oswegatchie,  Grasse,  and  Racket 
rivers.  These  streams  mostly  take  their  rise  upon  the  plateau  of  the 
great  northern  wilderness,  and  in  their  course  to  the  lowlands  are  fre- 
quently interrupted  by  falls,  furnishing  an  abundance  of  water-power. 
The  water  is  usually  very  dark,  being  colored  with  iron  and  the  vege- 
tation of  swamps. 

"  The  fifth  subdivision  includes  all  the  streams  flowing  into  lakes 
George  and  Champlain..  They  are  mostly  mountain  torrents,  fre- 
quently interrupted  by  cascades.  The  principal  streams  are  the 
Chazy,  Saranac,  and  Au  Sable  rivers,  and  Wood  Creek.  Deep  strata 
of  tertiary  clay  extend  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Champlain  and  Wood 
Creek.  The  water  of  most  of  the  streams  in  this  region  is  colored  by 
the  iron  over  which  it  flows. 

"  The  second  general  division  of  the  river-system  of  the  State  in- 
cludes the  basins  of  the  Allegany,  Susquehanna,  Delaware,  and  Hud- 
son. The  Allegany  Basin  embraces  the  southerly  half  of  Chautauqua 
and  Cattaraugus  counties  and  the  southwest  corner  of  Allegany.  The 


328  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Allegany  River  enters  the  State  from  the  south  in  the  southeast  corner 
of  Cattaraugus  county,  flows  in  nearly  a  semicircle,  with  its  outward 
curve  toward  the  north,  and  flows  out  of  the  State  in  the  southwest 
part  of  the  same  county.  It  receives  several  tributaries  from  the  north 
and  east.  These  streams  mostly  flow  in  deep  ravines,  bordered  by 
steep,  rocky  hillsides.  The  watershed  between  this  basin  and  Lake 
Erie  approaches  within  a  few  miles  of  the  lake,  and  is  elevated  800 
or  1000  feet  above  it. 

"  The  Susquehanna  Basin  occupies  about  one-third  of  the  south 
border  of  the  State.  The  river  takes  its  rise  in  Otsego  Lake,  and, 
flowing  southwest  to  the  Pennsylvania  line,  receives  Charlotte  River 
from  the  south  and  the  Unadilla  from  the  north.  After  a  course  of  a 
few  miles  in  Pennsylvania,  it  again  enters  the  State,  and  flows  in  a 
general  westerly  direction  to  near  the  west  border  of  Tioga  county, 
whence  it  turns  south  and  again  enters  Pennsylvania.  Its  principal 
tributary  from  the  north  is  Chenango  River.  Tioga  River  enters  the 
State  from  Pennsylvania  near  the  east  border  of  Steuben  county,  flows 
north,  receives  the  Canisteo  from  the  west  and  the  Conhocton  from 
the  north.  From  the  mouth  of  the  latter  the  stream  takes  the  name 
Chemung  River,  and  flows  in  a  southeast  direction,  into  the  Susque- 
hanna in  Pennsylvania,  a  few  miles  south  of  the  State  line.  The 
upper  course  of  these  streams  is  generally  through  deep  ravines  bor- 
dered by  steep  hillsides ;  but  below  they  are  bordered  by  wide  and 
beautiful  intervales. 

"  The  Delaware  Basin  occupies  Delaware  and  Sullivan  and  portions 
of  several  of  the  adjacent  counties.  The  north  or  principal  branch  of 
the  river  rises  in  the  northeast  part  of  Delaware  county  and  flows 
southwest  to  near  the  Pennsylvania  line;  thence  it  turns  southeast 
and  forms  the  boundary  of  the  State  to  the  line  of  New  Jersey.  Its 
principal  branches  are  the  Pepacton  and  Neversink  rivers.  These 
streams  all  flow  in  deep,  narrow  ravines,  bordered  by  steep,  rocky  hills. 

"The  Basin  of  the  Hudson  occupies  about  two-thirds  of  the  east  bor- 
der of  the  State,  and  a  large  territory  extending  into  the  interior. 
The  remote  sources  of  the  Hudson  are  among  the  highest  peaks  of  the 
Adirondacks,  more  than  4000  feet  above  tide.  Several  of  the  little 
lakes  which  form  reservoirs  of  the  upper  Hudson  are  2500  to  3000 
feet  above  tide.  The  stream  rapidly  descends  through  the  narrow 
defiles  into  Warren  county,  where  it  receives  from  the  east  the  outlet 
of  Schroon  Lake,  and  Sacondaga  River  from  the  west.  Below  the 
mouth  of  the  latter  the  river  turns  eastward,  and  breaks  through  the 


NEW    YORK. 


329 


VIEW   ON   THE  HUDSON   RIVER. 

barrier  of  the  Luzerne  Mountains  in  a  series  of  rapids  and  falls.  At 
Fort  Edward  it  again  turns  south  and  flows  with  a  rapid  current,  fre- 
quently interrupted  by  falls,  to  Troy,  160  miles  from  the  ocean.  At 
this  place  the  river  falls  into  an  estuary,  where  its  current  is  affected 
by  the  tide ;  and  from  this  place  to  its  mouth  it  is  a  broad,  deep, 
sluggish  stream.  About  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  the  Hudson  breaks 
through  the  rocky  barrier  of  the  Highlands,  forming  the  most  easterly 
of  the  Appalachian  Mountain  Ranges ;  and  along  its  lower  course  it 
is  bordered  on  the  west  by  a  nearly  perpendicular  wall  of  basaltic 
rock  300  to  500  feet  high,  known  as  'The  Palisades/  Above  Troy 
the  Hudson  receives  the  Hoosick  River  from  the  east  and  the  Mo- 
hawk from  the  west.  The  former  stream  rises  in  western  Massachu- 
setts and  Vermont,  and  the  latter  near  the  centre  of  the  State.  At 
Little  Falls  and  the  '  Noses/  the  Mohawk  breaks  through  the  moun- 
tain barriers  in  a  deep,  rocky  ravine;  and  at  Cohoes,  about  one  mile 
from  its  mouth,  it  flows  down  a  perpendicular  precipice  of  70  feet, 
forming  an  excellent  water-power.  Below  Troy  the  tributaries  of  the 
Hudson  are  all  comparatively  small  streams.  South  of  the  Highlands 


330 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 

the  river  spreads  out  into  a  wide  expanse  known  as  ( Tappan  Bay.' 
A  few  small  streams  upon  the  extreme  east  border  of  the  State  flow 
eastward  into  the  Housatonic;  and  several  small  branches  of  +he 
Pasaic  River  rise  in  the  south  part  of  Rockland  county. 

"  Lake  Erie  forms  a  portion  of  the  west  boundary  of  the  State.  .  .  . 
The  harbors  upon  the  lake  are  Buffalo,  Silver  Creek,  Dunkirk,  and 

Barcelona Niagara  River,  forming  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  is 

34  miles  long,  and,  on  an  average,  more  than  a  mile  wide.  .  .  .  Lake 
Ontario  forms  a  part  of  the  north  boundary  to  the  west  half  of  the 
State." 

Between  Warren  and  Washington  counties,  lies  Lake  George, 
sometimes  called  by  its  Indian  name,  Horicon,  the  most  beautiful 
body  of  water  in  the  State.  It  is  36  miles  long,  with  a  breadth  vary- 
ing from  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  4  miles.  "  The  water  is  remark- 
ably transparent,  and  in  some  parts  is  more  than  400  feet  deep.  To 
a  passenger  traversing  this  lake,  scarcely  anything  can  be  imagined 


NEW    YORK.  331 

more  beautiful  or  picturesque  than  the  scenery  along  its  banks.  The 
romantic  effect  of  the  prospect  is  greatly  enhanced  by  a  multitude  of 
delightful  islands  of  various  forms  and  sizes,  which  meet  the  gaze  of 
the  beholder  on  every  side.  Of  these,,  if  we  include  many  little  islets 
and  rocks,  there  are  more  than  300 :  a  popular  notion  prevails  that 
their  number  corresponds  to  that  of  the  days  of  the  year.  Twelve 
miles  from  the  southwestern  extremity  of  the  lake,  there  is  an  island 
of  about  20  acres,  called,  from  its  position,  Twelve  Mile  Island.  A 
mile  farther  north  there  is  a  high  point,  or  tongue  of  land,  called 
Tongue  Mountain,  west  of  which  projects  a  small  arm  of  the  lake, 
named  Northwest  Bay.  Here  the  Narrows,  that  is,  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  lake,  commence  and  continue  7  or  8  miles.  Near  the  west 
end  of  the  Narrows,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake,  is  Black  Mountain, 
the  summit  of  which  is  regarded  as  the  highest  point  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  lake,  having  an  elevation  of  2200  feet  above  its  surface. 
About  12  miles  beyond  Black  Mountain  there  is  a  rock  about  200 
feet  high,  rising  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  surface  of  the  water. 
During  the  French  War,  Major  Rogers,  being  closely  pursued  by  the 
Indians,  slid  down  this  steep  declivity,  and  landed  safely  on  the  ice, 
leaving  his  pursuers  petrified  with  astonishment  at  the  dangerous 
exploit  which  they  had  witnessed.  From  this  circumstance,  the  rock 
has  been  named  Rogers'  Slide.  Two  or  three  miles  beyond  the  place 
just  mentioned,  is  Lord  Howe's  Point,  where  the  division  of  the 
English  army  under  Lord  Howe  landed  previous  to  their  attack  on 
Ticonderoga." 

The  greatest  of  all  the  natural  wonders  of  the  State,  however,  are  the 
famous  Falls  of  the  Niagara,  which  lie  partly  within  the  limits  of  New 
York,  and  partly  in  Canada.  The  Niagara  River,  as  has  been  stated, 
forms  the  outlet  of  the  4  great  upper  lakes,  and  discharges  their  waters 
which  it  receives  through  Lake  Erie,  into  Lake  Ontario.  At  the  point 
where  it  leaves  Lake  Erie,  the  Niagara  is  very  wide,  but  it  narrows 
as  it  recedes  from  the  lake,  and  about  16  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  it 
begins  to  contract  suddenly,  and  the  current  increases  in  velocity. 
This  is  the  beginning  of  the  rapids,  which  are  a  mile  in  length.  The 
fall  of  the  river  in  this  distance  is  52  feet,  and  down  this  descent  the 
immense  volume  of  water  rushes  in  great  swells,  until  the  Falls  are 
reached.  As  it  approaches  the  precipice,  the  river  makes  a  curve  from 
west  to  north,  and  spreads  out  to  an  extreme  width  of  about  4750  feet. 
Goat  Island,  which  extends  down  to  the  brink  of  the  cataract,  occupies 
about  one-fourth  of  this  space,  leaving  the  river  on  the  American  side 
about  1100  feet  wide,  and  on  the  Canadian  side  about  double  this 


332  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

width.  The  line  along  the  verge  of  the  Canadian  fall,  is  much  longer 
than  the  breadth  of  this  portion  of  the  river,  by  reason  of  its  horseshoe 
form,  the  curve  extending  up  the  central  part  of  the  current.  In  passing 
down  the  rapids  the  waters  acquire  a  force  which  dashes  them  over 
the  precipice  in  a  grand,  resistless  torrent,  and  they  fall  in  a  magnificent 
curve,  as  they  leap  clear  of  the  rocky  wall  into  the  boiling  pool  at  its 
base.  The  fall  is  164  feet  on  the  American  side,  and  150  on  the 
Canadian.  The  greater  volume  of  water  passes  over  the  Canadian,  or 
"  Horseshoe  Fall."  The  space  between  the  cataract  and  the  wall  of 
rock  over  which  it  dashes,  widens  near  the  bottom,  the  strata  being 
there  of  a  loose,  shaly  character,  and  consequently  hollowed  out  by  the 
continual  action  of  the  spray.  A  cave  is  thus  formed  behind  the  fall, 
into  which,  on  the  Canadian  side,  persons  can  enter,  and  pass  by  a 
rough  and  slippery  path  toward  Goat  Island.  Below  the  falls,  the 
current,  contracted  to  less  than  1000  feet  in  width,  is  tossed  tumultu- 
ously  about,  and  forms  great  eddies  and  whirlpools  as  it  sweeps  down 
its  rapidly  descending  bed.  Small  boats  can  pass  the  river  in  safety 
here,  and  a  little  steamer  used  to  convey  passengers  almost  to  the  foot 
of  the  falls.  The  river  is  crossed  by  two  suspension  bridges.  One 
immediately  below  the  falls,  is  used  by  vehicles  and  pedestrians,  the 
other,  a  mile  below,  is  used  partly  by  these,  and  partly  by  the  railway 
line  entering  Canada.  Fourteen  miles  below,  the  river  enters  Lake 
Ontario. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  are  unsurpassed  in  grandeur  and  magnificence 
by  any  in  the  world.  When  the  state  of  the  atmosphere  is  favorable, 
the  roar  of  the  cataract  may  be  heard  for  miles.  It  sometimes  rolls 
over  the  land  to  Lake  Ontario,  and  across  its  waters  to  Toronto  in 
Canada,  46  miles  distant.  Anthony  Trollopc  has  written  of  them  as 
follows : 

"  The  falls,  as  I  have  said,  are  made  by  a  sudden  breach  in  the 
level  of  the  river.  All  cataracts  are,  I  presume,  made  by  such  breaches ; 
but  generally  the  waters  do  not  fall  precipitously  as  they  do  at  Niagara, 
and  never  elsewhere,  as  far  as  the  world  yet  knows,  has  a  breach  so 
sudden  been  made  in  a  river  carrying  in  its  channel  such  or  any 
approach  to  such  a  body  of  water.  Up  above  the  falls  for  more  than 
a  mile  the  waters  leap  and  burst  over  rapids,  as  though  conscious  of 
the  destiny  that  awaits  them.  Here  the  river  is  very  broad  and  com- 
paratively shallow ;  but  from  shore  to  shore  it  frets  itself  into  little 
torrents,  and  begins  to  assume  the  majesty  of  its  power.  Looking  at  it 
even  here,  in  the  expanse  which  forms  itself  over  the  greater  fall,  one 


NEW   YORK. 


333 


FALLS  OF   THE  NIAGARA. 

feels  sure  that  no  strongest  swimmer  could  have  a  chance  of  saving 
himself  if  fate  had  cast  him  in  even  among  those  petty  whirlpools. 
The  waters,. though  so  broken  in  their  descent,  are  deliciously  green. 
This  color,  as  seen  early  in  the  morning  or  just  as  the  sun  has  set,  is 
so  bright,  as  to  give  to  the  place  one  of  its  chiefest  charms. 

"  This  will  be  best  seen  from  the  farther  end  of  the  island— Goat 
Island  as  it  is  called— which,  as  the  reader  will  understand,  divides 


334  TI1E    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  river  immediately  above  the  falls.  Indeed,  the  island  is  a  part  of 
that  precipitously-broken  ledge  over  which  the  river  tumbles,  and  no 
doubt  in  process  of  time  will  be  worn  away  and  covered  with  water. 
The  time,  however,  will  be  very  long.  In  the  meanwhile,  it  is  perhaps 
a  mile  round,  and  is  covered  thickly  with  timber.  At  the  upper  enj 
of  the  island  the  waters  are  divided,  and,  coming  down  in  two  courses 
each  over  its  own  rapids,  form  two  separate  falls.  The  bridge  by 
which  the  island  is  entered,  is  a  hundred  yards  or  more  above  the 
smaller  fall.  The  waters  here  have  been  turned  by  the  island,  and 
make  their  leap  into  the  body  of  the  river  below  at  a  right  angle  with 
it — about  200  yards  below  the  greater  fall.  Taken  alone,  this  smaller 
cataract  would,  I  imagine,  be  the  heaviest  fall  of  water  known  ;  but 
taken  in  conjunction  with  the  other,  it  is  terribly  shorn  of  its  majesty. 
The  waters  here  are  not  green  as  they  are  at  the  larger  cataract ;  and, 
though  the  ledge  has  been  hollowed  and  bowed  by  them  so  as  to  form 
a  curve,  that  curve  does  not  deepen  itself  into  a  vast  abyss  as  it  does 
at  the  horseshoe  up  above.  This  smaller  fall  is  again  divided  ;  and 
the  visitor,  passing  down  a  flight  of  steps  and  over  a  frail  wooden 
bridge,  finds  himself  on  a  smaller  island  in  the  midst  of  it. 

O     / 

"  But  we  will  go  at  once  on  to  the  glory,  and  the  thunder,  and  the 
majesty,  and  the  wrath  of  that  upper  hell  of  waters.  We  are  still,  let 
the  reader  remember,  on  Goat  Island — still  in  the  States — and  on  what 
is  called  the  American  side  of  the  main  body  of  the  river.  Advancing 
beyond  the  path  leading  down  to  the  lesser  fall,  we  come  to  that  point 
of  the  island  at  which  the  waters  of  the  main  river  begin  to  descend. 
From  hence  across  to  the  Canadian  side  the  cataract  continues  itself  in 
one  unabated  line.  But  the  line  is  very  far  from  being  direct  or 
straight.  After  stretching  for  some  little  way  from  the  shore  to  a 
point  in  the  river  which  is  reached  by  a  wooden  bridge  at  the  end  of 
which  stands  a  tower  upon  the  rock, — after  stretching  to  this,  the  line 
of  the  ledge  bends  inward  against  the  flood — in,  and  in,  and  in — till 
one  is  led  to  think  that  the  depth  of  that  horseshoe  is  immeasurable. 
It  has  been  cut  with  no  stinting  hand.  A  monstrous  cantle  has  been 
worn  back  out  of  the  centre  of  the  rock,  so  that  the  fury  of  the  waters 
converges  ;  and  the  spectator,  as  he  gazes  into  the  hollow  with  wishful 
eyes,  fancies  that  he  can  hardly  trace  out  the  centre  of  the  abyss. 

"  Go  down  to  the  end  of  that  wooden  bridge,  seat  yourself  on  the 
rail,  and  there  sit  till  all  the  outer  world  is  lost  to  you.  There  is  no 
grander  spot  about  Niagara  than  this.  The  waters  are  absolutely 
around  you.  If  you  have  that  power  of  eye-contrio  which  is  so  neces- 


NEW    YORK.  335 

« 

sary  to  the  full  enjoyment  of  scenery,  you  will  see  nothing  but  the 
water.  You  will  certainly  hear  nothing  else ;  and  the  sound,  I  beg 
you  to  remember,  is  not  an  ear-cracking,  agonizing  crash  and  clang 
of  noises,  but  is  melodious  and  soft  withal,  though  loud  as  thunder. 
It  fills  your  ears,  and,  as  it  were,  envelops  them,  but  at  the  same  time 
you  can  speak  to  your  neighbor  without  an  effort.  But  at  this  place, 
and  in  these  moments,  the  less  of  speaking,  I  should  say,  the  better. 
There  is  no  grander  spot  than  this.  Here,  seated  on  the  rail  of  the 
bridge,  you  will  not  see  the  whole  depth  of  the  fall.  In  looking  at 
the  grandest  works  of  nature,  and  of  art  too,  I  fancy  it  is  never  well 
to  see  all.  There  should  be  something  left  to  the  imagination,  and 
much  should  be  half  concealed  in  mystery.  The  greatest  charm  of  a 
mountain  range  is  the  wild  feeling  that  there  must  be  strange,  unknown, 
desolate  worlds  in  those  far-off  valleys  beyond.  And  so  here,  at 
Niagara,  that  converging  rush  of  waters  may  fall  down,  down  at  once 
into  a  hell  of  rivers,  for  what  the  eye  can  s'ee.  It  is  glorious  to  watch 
them  in  their  first  curve  over  the  rocks.  They  corne  green  as  a  bank 
of  emeralds,  but  with  a  fitful  flying  color,  as  though  conscious  that  in 
one  moment  more  they  would  be  dashed  into  spray  and  rise  into  air, 
pale  as  driven  snow.  The  vapor  rises  high  into  the  air,  and  is  gath- 
ered there,  visible  always  as  a  permanent  white  cloud  over  the  cataract ; 
but  the  bulk  of  the  spray  which  fills  the  lower  hollow  of  that  horseshoe 
is  like  a  tumult  of  snow.  This  you  will  not  fully  see  from  your  seat 
on  the  rail.  The  head  of  it  rises  ever  and  anon  out  of  that  caldron 
below,  but  the  caldron  itself  will  be  invisible.  It  is  ever  so  far  down 
— far  as  vour  own  imagination  can  sink  it.  But  your  eyes  will  rest 
full  upon  the  curve  of  the  waters.  The  shape  you  will  be  looking  at 
is  that  of  a  horseshoe,  but  of  a  horseshoe  miraculously  deep  from  toe 
to  heel ;  and  this  depth  becomes  greater  as  you  sit  there.  That  which 
at  first  was  only  great  and  beautiful  becomes  gigantic  and  sublime,  till 
the  mind  is  at  a  loss  to  find  an  epithet  for  its  own  use.  To  realize 
Niagara,  you  must  sit  there  till  you  see  nothing  else  than  that  which 
you  have  come  to  see.  You  will  hear  nothing  else,  and  think  of 
nothing  else.  At  length  you  will  be  at  one  with  the  tumbling  river 
before  you.  You  will  find  yourself  among  the  waters  as  though  you 
belonged  to  them.  The  cool,  liquid  green  will  run  through  your 
veins,  and  the  voice  of  the  cataract  will  be  the  expression  of  your  own 
heart.  You  will  fall  as  the  bright  waters  fall,  rushing  down  into 
your  new  world  with  no  hesitation  and  with  no  dismay ;  and  you  will 
rise  again  as  the  spray  rises,  bright,  beautiful  and  pure.  Then  you  will 
flow  away  in  your  course  to  the  uncompassed,  distant,  and  eternal  ocean. 


336  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"  When  this  state  has  been  reached  and  lias  passed  away,  you  may 
get  off  your  rail  and  mount  the  tower.  It  is  not  very  high,  and  there 
is  a  balcony  at  the  top  on  which  some  half-dozen  persons  may  stand 
at  ease.  Here  the  mystery  is  lost,  but  the  whole  fall  is  seen.  It  is 
not  even  at  this  spot  brought  so  fully  before  your  eye,  made  to  show 
itself  in  so  complete  and  entire  a  shape,  as  it  will  do  when  you  come 
to  stand  near  it  on  the  Canadian  shore.  But  I  think  that  it  shows 
itself  more  beautifully.  And  the  form  of  the  cataract  is  such,  that  here 
on  Goat  Island,  on  the  American  shore,  no  spray  will  reach  you,  though 
you  are  absolutely  over  the  waters.  But  on  the  Canadian  side,  the 
road  as  it  approaches  the  fall  is  wet  and  rotten  with  spray,  and  you, 
as  you  stand  close  upon  the  edge,  will  be  wet  also.  The  rainbows  as 
they  are  seen  through  the  rising  cloud — for  the  sun's  rays,  as  seen 
through  these  waters,  show  themselves  in  a  bow,  as  they  do  when  seen 
through  rain — are  pretty  enough,  and  are  greatly  loved. 

"  And  now  we  will  cross  the  water,  and  with  this  object  will  return 
by  the  bridge  out  of  Goat  Island,  on  the  mainland  of  the  American 
side.  But  as  we  do  so,  let  me  say  that  one  of  the  great  charms  of 
Niagara  consists  in  this :  that  over  and  above  that  one  great  object  of 
wonder  and  beauty,  there  is  so  much  little  loveliness — loveliness  espe- 
cially of  water  I  mean.  There  are  little  rivulets  running  here  and 
there  over  little  falls,  with  pendent  boughs  above  them,  and  stones 
shining  under  their  shallow  depths.  As  the  visitor  stands  and  looks 
through  the  trees,  the  rapids  glitter  before  him,  and  then  hide  them- 
selves behind  islands.  They  glitter  and  sparkle  in  far  distances  under 
the  bright  foliage,  till  the  remembrance  is  lost,  and  one  knows  not 
which  way  they  run 

"  Having  mounted  the  hill  on  the  Canada  side,  you  will  walk  on 
toward  the  falls.  As  I  have  said  before,  you  will  from  this  side  look 
directly  into  the  full  circle  of  the  upper  cataract,  while  you  will  have 
before  you,  at  your  left  hand,  the  whole  expanse  of  the  lesser  fall.  For 
those  who  desire  to  see  all  at  a  glance,  who  wish  to  comprise  the  whole 
with  their  eyes,  and  to  leave  nothing  to  be  guessed,  nothing  to  be  sur- 
mised, this  no  doubt  is  the  best  point  of  view 

"Here,  on  this  side,  you  walk  on  to  the  very  edge  of  the  cataract, 
and,  if  your  tread  be  steady  and  your  legs  firm,  you  dip  your  foot  into 
the  water  exactly  at  the  spot  where  the  thin  outside  margin  of  the 
current  reaches  the  rocky  edge  and  jumps  to  join  the  mass  of  the  fall. 
The  bed  of  white  foam  beneath  is  certainly  seen  better  here  than  else- 
where, and  the  green  curve  of  the  water  is  as  bright  here  as  when  seen 


NEW   YORK.  331 

from  the  wooden  rail  across.  But  nevertheless  I  say  again  that  that 
wooden  rail  is  the  one  point  from  whence  Niagara  may  be  best  seen 
aright. 

"  Close  to  the  cataract,  exactly  at  the  spot  from  whence  in  former  days 
the  Table  Rock  used  to  project  from  the  land  over  the  boiling  caldron 
below,  there  is  now  a  shaft,  down  which  you  will  descend  to  the  level 
of  the  river,  and  pass  between  the  rock  and  the  torrent.  This  Table 
Rock  broke  away  from  the  cliff  and  fell,  as  up  the  whole  course  of  the 
river  the  seceding  rocks  have  split  and  fallen  from  time  to  time  through 
countless  years,  and  will  continue  to  do  till  the  bed  of  the  upper  lake 
is  reached 

"  In  the  spot  to  which  I  allude  the  visitor  stands  on  a  broad  safe 
path,  made  of  shingles,  between  the  rock  over  which  the  water  rushes 
and  the  rushing  water.  He  will  go  in  so  far  that  the  spray,  rising 
back  from  the  bed  of  the  torrent,  does  not  incommode  him.  With 
this  exception,  the  farther  he  can  go  in  the  better ;  but  circumstances 
will  clearly  show  him  the  spot  to  which  he  should  advance.  Unless 
the .  water  be  driven  in  by  a  very  strong  wind,  five  yards  make  the 
difference  between  a  comparatively  dry  coat  and  an  absolutely  wet 
one.  And  then  let  him  stand  with  his  back  to  the  entrance,  thus 
hiding  the  last  glimmer  of  the  expiring  day.  So  standing,  he  will 
look  up  among  the  falling  waters,  or  down  into  the  deep,  misty  pit, 
from  which  they  reascend  in  almost  as  palpable  a  bulk.  The  rock 
will  be  at  his  right  hand,  high  and  hard,  and  dark  and  straight,  like 
the  wall  of  some  huge  cavern,  such  as  children  enter  in  their  dreams. 
For  the  first  five  minutes  he  will  be  looking  but  at  the  waters  of  a 
cataract — at  the  waters,  indeed,  of  such  a  cataract  as  we  know  no 
other,  and  at  their  interior  curves  which  elsewhere  we  cannot  see. 
But  by  and  by  all  this  will  change.  He  will  no  longer  be  on  a  shingly 
path  beneath  a  waterfall ;  but  that  feeling  of  a  cavern  wall  will  grow 
upon  him,  of  a  cavern  deep,  below  roaring  seas,  in  which  the  waves 
are  there,  though  they  do  not  enter  in  upon  him ;  or  rather,  not  the 
waves,  but  the  very  bowels  of  the  ocean.  He  will  feel  as  though  the 
floods  surrounded  him,  coming  and  going  with  their  wild  sounds,  and 
he  will  hardly  recognize  that  though  among  them  he  is  not  in  them. 
And  they,  as  they  fall  with  a  continual  roar,  not  hurting  the  ear,  but 
musical  withal,  will  seem  to  move  as  the  vast  ocean  waters  may  per^ 
haps  move  in  their  internal  currents.  He  will  lose  the  sense  of  one 
continued  descent,  and  think  that  they  are  passing  round  him  in  their 
appointed  courses.  The  broken  spray  that  rises  from  the  depths  below, 
22 


338  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

rises  so  strongly,  so  palpably,  so  rapidly,  that  the  motion  in  every 
direction  will  seem  equal.  And,  as  he  looks  on,  strange  colors  will 
show  themselves  through  the  mist;  the  shades  of  gray  will  become 
green  or  blue,  with  ever  and  anon  a  flash  of  white ;  and  then,  when 
some  gust  of  wind  blows  in  with  greater  violence,  the  sea-girt  cavern 
will  become  all  dark  and  black.  Oh,  my  friend,  let  there  be  no  one 
there  to  speak  to  thee  then ;  no,  not  even  a  brother.  As  you  stand 
there  speak  only  to  the  waters." 

The  principal  rivers  are  navigable  for  a  greater  or  less  distance, 
and  canals  connect  the  various  parts  of  the  State,  and  afford  water 
transportation  along  the  unnavigable  parts  of  the  rivers. 

The  principal  islands  are  Long  Island  and  Staten  Island. 

Long  Island  extends  eastward  from  the  mainland,  and  lies  south 
of  Connecticut.  Its  northern  shore  is  washed  by  Long  Island  Sound, 
and  its  eastern  and  southern  shores  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  while  the 
East  River,  a  narrow  strait,  separates  it  from  Manhattan  Island.  It 
is  about  115  miles  long,  and  about  20  miles  broad.  Its  surface  is 
generally  level,  rising  only  in  slight  elevations.  The  coast  is  broken 
into  numerous  bays  and  harbors,  some  of  which  are  excellent.  Gar- 
diner's and  Great  Peconic  bays,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island, 
extend  into  the  land  for  about  30  miles.  The  majority  of  these  bays 
form  the  harbors  of  flourishing  towns.  The  coast  is  well  lighted,  and 
several  fine  summer  resorts  are  situated  along  it.  The  soil  is  fertile 
and  highly  cultivated.  Several  important  towns  are  located  on  the 
island,  and  railroads  furnish  sure  and  rapid  communication  between 
them.  Brooklyn,  the  second  city  in  the  State,  is  located  on  the  ex- 
treme western  end  of  Long  Island. 

Staten  Island  lies  in  the  lower  part  of  New  York  Bay.  It  is  about 
14  miles  long,  4  miles  wide,  and  is  built  up  with  a  number  of  busy 
little  villages.  Its  shores  and  heights  are  lined  with  handsome 
country  seats,  and  a  railroad  extends  throughout  its  entire  length. 

MINERALS. 

The  State  is  very  rich  in  mineral  deposits.  Iron  abounds.  Ex- 
tensive beds  of  hematite  ores  are  found  in  Columbia  and  Dutchess 
counties,  magnetic  ores  in  Putnam,  Orange,  and  Westchester  counties, 
and  the  region  lying  between  Lakes  Champlain  and  Ontario  is  espe- 
cially rich  in  specular  and  magnetic  ores.  The  western  counties  also 
contain  large  deposits  of  this  mineral.  Coal  is  found  in  Steuben 
county,  and  lead  in  St.  Lawrence,  Ulster,  Sullivan,  Columbia,  Wash- 


NEW    YORK.  339 

ington,  Dutchess,  Rensselaer,  and  Westchester  counties.  Zinc,  copper, 
titanium,  manganese,  arsenic,  silver,  cobalt,  and  bismuth  are  found  to 
a  limited  extent.  Marble,  gneiss,  and  sandstone  abound.  Sulphuret 
of  iron  is  found  in  St.  Lawrence  county,  and  carburet  in  Essex, 
Clinton,  and  Dutchess  counties.  Mineral  springs  are  numerous. 
There  are  fine  salt  springs  in  Onondaga  (which  yield  in  this  county 
large  quantities  of  table  salt),  Erie,  Genesee,  and  Orleans  counties. 
Natural  issues  of  carbureted  hydrogen  exist  in  several  counties  in  the 
State.  In  Chautauqua  county,  the  village  of  Fredonia  is  lighted  by 
means  of  this  gas,  as  is  also  Barcelona  lighthouse  in  the  same  county. 

CLIMATE. 

In  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  the  State,  the  summer  is  short 
and  hot,  the  winter  long  and  severe,  and  the  spring  cold  and  damp, 
and  rendered  unpleasant  by  chilly  winds.  In  the  eastern  section  the 
sea  breezes  temper  the  severity  of  the  cold,  and  lessen  the  heat  of  the 
summer.  The  climate  of  New  York  City  is  the  most  delightful  in  the 
country,  taking  it  "  the  year  round." 

SOIL  AND   PRODUCTIONS. 

In  the  valleys  of  the  principal  rivers  of  the  State  the  soil  is  gene- 
rally of  an  excellent  quality,  and  very  fertile.  In  the  mountainous 
regions  it  is  poor.  The  average  soil,  however,  is  good,  and  the  State 
as  a  whole  is  fertile.  Agriculture  is  carried  on  to  a  very  great  extent, 
much  care  being  given  to  scientific  farming.  The  State  is  noted  for 
its  market  gardens,  as  well  as  for  its  dairy  and  grazing  farms. 

In  1869,  there  were  14,355,403  acres  of  improved  land,  and 
6,616,553  acres  of  unimproved  land  in  the  State,  whose  agricultural 
wealth  for  the  same  year  may  be  stated  as  follows : 

Cash  value  of  farms  (estimated) $1,000,000,000 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery 

(estimated),   .     .     .     .        $38,000,000 

Number  of  horses, 703,120 

asses  and  mules, 1,960 

milch  cows, 1,980,300 

young  cattle, '2,450,600 

sheep, 3,750,960 

swine,     ...........      4,960,300 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $108,856,290 

Bushels  of  wheat, 9,750,000 

"  rye, 4,748,000 

"  Indian  corn, 19,100,000 

"  oats, 31,250,000 


343-  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Bushels  of  peas  and  beans, 1,909,339 

Irish  potatoes, 28,500,000 

barley, 4,600,000 

buckwheat, 278,109 

Pounds  of  wool,       ...........  9,500,000 

butter, 103,097,280 

cheese, 48,548,289 

hops, 9,600,000 

Tons  of  hay, 4,600,000 

Maple  sugar, 10,816,458 

Gallons  of  wine, 62,000 

Yalue  of  orchard  products  (estimated),    .    .    .  $4,000,000 

market  garden  products  (estimated) ,  $3,800,000 

"          home-made  manufactures,      "         .  $825,000 

"           slaughtered  animals,               "         .  $16,000,000 

COMMERCE. 

The  commerce  of  New  York  is  the  most  important  of  any  of  the 
States.  In  1863  the  total  tonnage  owned  in  the  State  was  1,889,190 
tons,  of  which  848,328  was  registered,  and  321,714  was  steam  tonnage. 
In  addition  to  this,  however,  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  vessels 
owned  in  other  States  are  engaged  in  trading  with  the  ports  of  New 
York.  This  State  possesses  the  principal  harbor  of  the  Republic,  and 
is  more  extensively  engaged  in  the  foreign  and  coast  trade  than  any 
other.  A  very  large  share  of  the  exports,  and  nearly  all  the  imports, 
of  the  country  pass  through  the  port  of  New  York.  The  share  of  the 
State  in  the  lake  trade  is  immense.  Buffalo  is  the  great  centre  of 
this  trade.  The  enrolled  and  licensed  tonnage  of  the  port  in  1863 
was  112,893  tons,  of  which  50,964  was  steam  tonnage.  In  the  same 
year,  7647  American  and  foreign  vessels  were  entered,  and  7729 
were  cleared  at  Buffalo.  The  value  of  imports  from  the  west  by  lake 
and  railroad,  in  the  same  year,  was  estimated  at  $1 25,000,000.  Of  this 
sum,  $2,957,021  were  on  account  of  imports  from  Canada.  The 
total  value  of  imports  from  all  sections  was  $256,214,614.  Immense 
quantities  of  grain  are  received  annually  from  all  parts  of  the  west, 
and  shipped  eastward  by  the  Erie  Canal.  In  1863,  the  value  of  canal 
exports  was  $56,644,792.  In  1869,  the  tonnage  of  merchandise  car- 
ried through  them  amounted  to  1,000,000  tons,  the  capacity  of  all 
the  vessels  entered  at  the  ports  of  New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia, 
Baltimore,  New  Orleans,  and  San  Francisco.  In  the  same  year  the 
tolls  amounted  to  $1,278,507.52.  These  tolls  are  pledged  by  the 
Constitution  for  the  support  and  repair  of  the  canals,  the  repayment 
of  the  State  indebtedness  on  their  account,  the  reimbursement  of  the 


NEW    YORK.  341 

treasury  for  taxation  upon  the  people,  and  for  the  support  of  the  State 
Government. 

MANUFACTURES. 

The  State  is  largely  engaged  in  manufactures,  almost  every  species 
of  industry  being  represented  in  this  branch  of  its  wealth. 

In  1860,  there  were  in  the  State  23,236  establishments  devoted  to 
manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  221,481 
hands  and  a  capital  of  $175,449,206,  consuming  raw  material  worth 
$209,899,890,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $379,623,560. 
There  were  70  cotton  mills,  with  a  capital  of  $5,427,079,  employing 
3043  male,  and  4288  female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth 
$2,988,270,  paying  $1,271,592  for  labor,  and  yielding  an  annual 
product  of  $3,250,770.  There  were  235  woollen  mills,  with  a  capital 
of  $4,598,233,  employing  3786  male,  and  4255  female  hands,  con- 
suming raw  material  worth  $4,979,631,  paying  $1,591,248  for  labor, 
and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $9,090,316. 

The  other  manufactures  were  as  follows : 

Value  of  leather  produced, $20,758,017 

pig  iron  produced, 1,385,208 

rolled  iron  produced,   * 2,215,250 

steam  engines  and  machinery  produced,  10,484,863 

agricultural  implements  produced,   .  3,429,037 

sawed  and  planed  lumber  produced,  10,310,000 

flour  produced, ,    .  33,100,000 

salt  produced,      ........  1,289,000 

malt  and  spirituous  liquors  produced,  12,694,000 

**         boots  and  shoes  produced,    ....  10,878,797 

"         furniture  produced, 4,996,092 

musical  instruments  produced,    .    .  3,392,577 

"         jewelry,  silver  ware,  etc.,  produced,  5,466,463 

"         soap  and  candles  produced, ....  3,836,503 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  State  of  New  York  was  the  first  member  of  the  Union  to  en- 
gage in  internal  improvements  upon  a  large  scale.  In  1817,  the 
great  Erie  and  Hudson  Canal  was  commenced.  It  was  completed  in 
1825  at  a  cost  of  $7,000,000.  This  magnificent  work,  connecting 
the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  with  those  of  the  Great  Lakes,  is  due  to  the 
genius  aiid  determination  of  De  Witt  Clinton,  who  more  than  any 
other  man  contributed  to  its  successful  accomplishment.  The  Erie 
Canal  has  several  branches  diverging  from  it,  viz :  one  from  Utica  to 
Binghampton,  one  from  Syracuse  to  Oswego,  one  from  Geneva  to 


342  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Montezuma,  and  one  from  Rochester  to  Danville.  The  next  import- 
ant main  line  is  the  Champlain  Canal,  from  Albany  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  which  is  not  far  behind  the  "  Erie  "  in  the  extent  and  value  of 
its  trade.  The  other  canals  are  the  Delaware  and  Hudson,  connecting 
the  Hudson  River  with  the  coal  mines  in  northeastern  Pennsylvania  ; 
the  Chemung,  connecting  Senaca  Lake  and  Elmira;  the  Crooked 
Lake,  between  Penn  Yan  and  Dresden ;  and  the  Black  River  and 
Genesee  Valley  Canal,  which  is  not  yet  completed.  There  are  about 
873  miles  of  canal  navigation  completed  in  the  State.  The  various 
routes  are  all  in  successful  operation,  each  commanding  a  large  and 
profitable  trade.  They  have  all  been  constructed  by  the  State. 

The  railroads  of  New  York  are  among  the  most  important  in  the 
country.  In  1870  there  were  4773  miles  of  completed  roads  in  the 
State.  The  total  cost  of  these  was  about  $225,000,000.  The  State  is 
traversed  in  every  direction  by  roads  of  this  class,  which  connect  its 
principal  towns  and  cities,  and  extend  into  the  States  lying  around  it. 
Close  connections  are  made  with  the  most  important  roads  of  the 
Union,  and  by  a  judicious  system,  inaugurated  within  the  last  few 
years,  travellers  are  conveyed  from  New  York  City  to  the  principal 
cities  of  the  Union  without  change  of  cars  in  the  majority  of  instances, 
and  with  but  one  or  two  changes  in  the  others.  Freights  are  brought 
from  the  far  South  and  the  remote  West  to  the  metropolis  in  the  cars 
in  which  they  were  originally  placed.  The  New  York  Central  Rail- 
way, extending  from  Albany  to  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  at  Buffalo 
and  Oswego ;  the  Erie  Railway,  from  Jersey  City,  opposite  New  York 
City  (and  lying  for  a  short  distance  in  New  Jersey),  to  Lakes  Erie 
and  Ontario,  at  Buffalo,  Dunkirk,  and  Rochester ;  the  Albany  and 
Susquehanna,  from  Albany  to  Binghampton ;  and  the  Hudson  River 
and  Harlem  Railways,  the  last  two  from  New  York  City  to  Albany, 
are  the  principal  roads  in  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

"The  institutions  of  higher  education  in  this  State  are  mostly 
under  the  general  supervision  of  a  board  styled  '  The  Regents  of  the 
University  of  the  State  of  New  York.'  The  Board  consists  of  the 
Governor,  the  Lieu  tenant-Governor,  the  Secretary  of  State,  and  the 
Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction,  as  ex-officio  members,  and  of 
nineteen  other  persons  chosen  by  the  Legislature  in  the  same  manner 
as  Senators  in  Congress.  The  officers  of  the  Regents  are  a  Chancellor, 
a  Vice-Chancellor,  a  Treasurer,  a  Secretary  and  an  Assistant  Secretary, 


NEW   YORK.  343 

who  are  appointed  by  the  Board,  and  who  hold  their  offices  at  its 
pleasure.  The  leading  duties  with  which  the  Regents  are  charged, 
are  the  incorporation  of  colleges,  academies  and  other  institutions  of 
learning,  under  such  general  rules  and  regulations  as  they  may  from 
time  to  time  establish,  and  the  visitation  and  general  supervision  of 
all  colleges  and  academies. 

"  The  Regents  are  the  Trustees  of  the  State  Library,  the  Trustees 
of  the  State  Cabinet  of  Natural  History,  and  the  Historical  and 
Antiquarian  Collection  connected  therewith.  They  annually  apportion 
among  the  academies  the  sum  of  $40,000  from  the  income  of  the 
Literature  Fund;  also  the  sum  of  $18,000,  or  thereabouts,  to  acade- 
mies appointed  to  instruct  classes  in  the  science  of  common  school 
teaching ;  and  $3000  to  academies  which  shall  have  raised  an  equal 
amount,  for  the  purchase  of  books  and  philosophical  and  chemical 
apparatus. 

"An  organization  consisting  of  the  officers  of  colleges  and  academies, 
subject  to  the  visitation  of  the  Board,  and  called  '  The  University 
Convocation  of  the  State  of  New  York/  holds  an  annual  session  at 
Albany,  commencing  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  August. 

"  There  are  in  the  State  23  colleges,  the  oldest,  Columbia  College, 
having  been  incorporated  by  the  colonial  government  in  1754.  This 
college  has,  in  addition  to  its  academical  department,  a  Law  Depart- 
ment, and  a  School  of  Mines.  The  University  of  the  City  of  New 
York  has  schools  of  Art ;  of  Civil  Engineering  and  Architecture ;  of 
Analytical  and  Practical  Chemistry;  and  of  Law. 

"  Cornell  University,  at  Ithaca,  incorporated  in  1865,  and  opened 
to  students  in  1868,  has  been  liberally  endowed  by  Mr.  Ezra  Cornell. 
It  has  also  received  the  donation  of  land  scrip  made  to  this  State  by 
the  General  Government  to  found  an  agricultural  college.  In  its  plan 
and  object,  it  combines  the  advantages  of  a  university  with  the  prac- 
tical benefits  of  a  school  of  science  and  art. 

"  Rutger's  Female  College,  in  New  York  City,  provides  a  thorough 
collegiate  course  of  instruction,  surpassing  even  many  colleges  for 
young  men. 

"  Vassar  College,  at  Poughkeepsie ;  The  Packer  Collegiate  Institute, 
Brooklyn  ;  and  other  institutions  for  young  ladies,  offer  every  facility 
desired  for  complete  education. 

"  The  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction  has  the  general  super- 
vision of  Public  Schools  in  the  State.  School  Commissioners  in  the 
different  counties,  city  and  town  superintendents  in  the  principal 


344  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

cities  and  towns,  and  trustees  in  the  school  districts,  exercise  a  local 
supervision  over  the  schools  in  their  respective  localities.  Great  im- 
provements have  been  made  in  the  public  schools  of  the  State.  The 
schools  were  made  free  in  1867.  There  are  four  State  Normal  Schools 
in  successful  operation,  and  four  others  have  been  authorized  by  law. 
The  State  Normal  and  Training  School  at  Oswego  has  been  distin- 
guished for  its  influence  in  introducing  special  methods  of  primary 
instruction,  known  as  Object  Teaching.  During  the  year  1867-68, 
81  academies  instructed  teachers'  classes  in  the  science  of  common 
school  teaching  and  government,  under  the  supervision  of  the  Regents 
of  the  University.  Teachers'  Institutes  are  held  in  nearly  all  the 
counties,  principally  under  the  direction  of  the  County  Commis- 


sioners." 


In  the  year  1870,  there  were  11,705  public  schools  in  the  State, 
conducted  by  5283  male  and  21,230  female  teachers.  The  number 
of  children  at  school  during  some  portion  of  the  year  was  1,029,955. 
The  amount  expended  on  these  schools  in  the  same  year  was  $9,929,462. 

In  1867  the  number  of  private  schools  was  1433. 

In  1860  there  were  8360  libraries  in  the  State,  containing  2,436,576 
volumes.  Of  these  774  were  public. 

In  the  same  year  the  number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  was  as 
follows:  daily  74,  semi-weekly  10,  tri-weekly  7,  weekly  366,  monthly 
69,  quarterly  10,  annual  6  —  total  542.  Of  these  365  were  political, 
56  religious,  63  literary,  and  58  miscellaneous.  Their  total  annual 
circulation  was  320,930,884  copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS, 

The  charitable  institutions  of  this  State  are,  perhaps,  the  most 
complete  and  the  best  managed  of  any  in  America.  They  are  under 
the  general  supervision  of  a  Board  of  Public  State  Charities,  appointed 
by  the  Governor. 

The  New  York  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  located  at  New 
York  City,  was  founded  in  1818.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
complete  in  the  world,  and  is  famous  for  the  excellence  and  success  of 
its  system  of  treatment.  On  the  1st  of  January,  1868,  it  contained 
439  pupils.  • 

The  New  York  Asylum  for  Idiots,  at  Syracuse,  to  which  place  it 

*  American  Year  Book,  vol.  i.  pp.  415-416. 


NEW   YORK.  345 

was  removed  from  Albany  in  1855,  is  in  a  flourishing  condition.  The 
number  of  inmates  is  140. 

The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  at  Utica.  It  was  opened  in  1843,  and 
is  always  full  of  patients.  On  the  1st  of  January,  1867,  the  number 
was  401.  Besides  this  establishment  the  State  maintains  the  Willard 
Asylum,  at  Ovid,  and  the  Hudson  River  Asylum,  at  Poughkeepsie. 
The  City  and  County  of  New  York  maintain  a  large  Insane  Asylum 
on  BlackwelPs  Island ;  King's  county  has  one  at  Flatbush,  and  the 
Commissioners  of  Emigration  have  one  on  Ward's  Island.  There  are 
also  several  private,  and  a  number  of  county  asylums. 

The  Inebriate  Asylum  is  at  Binghampton.  Persons  addicted  to  the 
use  of -strong  drink  are  reclaimed  here.  There  were  40  inmates  in 
the  asylum  on  the  1st  of  January,  1868. 

The  Western  House  of  Refuge,  at  Rochester,  is  lor  the  confinement 
and  reformation  of  juvenile  delinquents.  It  was  opened  in  1849. 
On  the  1st  of  January,  1868,  there  were  448  boys  confined  here. 

There  are  three  State  Prisons — one  at  Sing  Sing,  one  at  Clinton, 
and  one  at  Auburn.  They  are  each  managed  by  a  warden,  and  are 
under  the  supervision  of  a  Board  of  five  persons  appointed  by  the 
Governor  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate.  They 
hold  office  ten  years.  The  prisoners  are  required  to  labor  during  the 
day,  and  are  confined  in  separate  cells  at  night.  The  number  of 
inmates  in  the  Sing  Sing  prison  on  the  1st  of  September,  1867,  was 
1409 ;  the  number  in  the  Auburn  prison,  927 ;  in  the  Clinton 
prison,  507. 

All  the  principal  cities  of  the  State  are  provided  with  excellent 
penal  establishments  of  their  own,  and  make  liberal  provision  for  the 
support  of  such  charitable  institutions  as  are  needed. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870  the  total  value  of  church  property  was  $66,073,755.  The 
number  of  churches  \vns  5474. 

FINANCES. 

On  the  30th  of  September,  1870,  the  total  funded  debt  of  the  State 
was  $38,641,606.40,  classified  as  follows: 

General  fund, $4,040,026.40 

Contingent, 68,000.00 

Canal, 11,966,580.00 

Bounty, 22,567,000.00 

Total        $38,641,606.40 


346  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

The  following  statement  shows  the  amount  of  the  State  debt  on 
September  30th,  1870,  after  deducting  the  unapplied  balances  of  the 
sinking  funds  at  that  date  : 

Balances.  As  provided  for. 

General  fund,  $4,040,026.40  $1,008,975.74  $3,031,050.66 

Contingent,             68,000.00  17,992.21  50,007.79 

Canal,                11,966,580.00  2,149,884.61  9,816,695.39 

Bounty,             22,567,000.00  3,055,609.58  19,511,390.42 

$38,641,606.40       $6,232,462.14     $32,409,144.26 

The  State  debt,  on  September  30th,  1869, 
after  deducting  the  unapplied  balances  of  the 
sinking  funds,  amounted  to $34,848,035.73 

On  September  30th,  1870,  to 32,409,144.26 

Showing  a  reduction  of      .......    $2,438,891.47 

The  receipts  of  the  State  Treasury,  on  account  of  all  funds  except 
the  Canal  and  Free  School  funds  for  the  fiscal  year,  amounted  to 
$13,846,258.39,  and  the  expenditures  to  $14,787,804.98. 

The  gross  valuation  of  taxable  property  in  the  State  for  the  year 
1870  was  $1,967,001,180.  The  total  State  tax  amounted  to  $14,285,976, 
being  a  little  more  than  seven  mills  on  the  dollar. 

On  the  1st  of  October,  1870,  there  were  292  National  Banks  in 
operation  in  the  State  of  New  York,  with  an  aggregate  paid-in  capital 
of  $13,497,741,  and  an  aggregate  circulation  of  $67,077,668.  At  the 
same  time  there  were  61  banks  doing  business  under  the  State  laws, 
whose  outstanding  circulation  was  $2,253,937.50.  There  were,  at  the 
same  time,  133  Savings  Banks,  with  assets  estimated  at  $220,000,000. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  original  Constitution  of  New  York  was  adopted  in  1777.  It 
has  been  amended  and  changed  since  then.  The  last  Convention  for 
this  purpose  met  in  June,  1867,  and  continued  its  sessions  for  several 
weeks  into  the  year  1868. 

The  Government  of  the  State  is  placed  in  the  hands  of  a  Gov- 
ernor, Lieutenant-Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Comptroller,  Treasurer, 
Attorney  General,  and  a  Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  32 
members)  and  an  Assembly  (of  128  members).  The  Executive  officers 
named  above  and  the  Senators  are  elected  once  every  two  years,  and 
the  members  of  the  Assembly  annually.  The  election  for  Governor 
and  Lieutenant-Governor  and  that  for  the  other  officers  are  held  on 
alternate  years.  The  Canal  Commissioners  and  Inspectors  of  State 


NEW   YORK.  347 

Prisons  are  elected  for  three  years,  one  each  year.  The  Canal  Ap- 
praisers, the  Superintendent  of  the  Banking  Department,  and  the 
Auditor  of  the  Canal  Department  are  appointed  for  three  years  by  the 
Governor,  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate.  The 
Adjutant-General  and  other  officers  of  the  military  staff  are  appointed 
by  the  Governor. 

"  The  Court  for  the  Trial  of  Impeachments  is  composed  of  the 
President  of  the  Senate  (who  is  president  of  the  court,  and  when 
absent  the  chief  judge  of  the  Court  of  Appeals  presides),  the  Senators, 
or  the  major  part  of  them,  and  the  judges  of  the  Court  of  Appeals, 
or  the  greater  part  of  them.  It  is  a  court  of  record,  and,  when  sum- 
moned, meets  at  Albany,  and  has  for  its  clerk  and  officers  the  clerk 
and  officers  of  the  Senate. 

"  The  Court  of  Appeals  has  full  power  to  correct  and  reverse  all 
proceedings  and  decisions  of  the  Supreme  Court.  It  is  composed  of 
eight  judges,  of  whom  four  are  elected  (one  every  second  year)  by  the 
people  at  large,  for  eight  years,  and  four  selected  each  year  from  the 
Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court  having  the  shortest  time  to  serve. 
These  selections  are  made  alternately  from  the  First,  Third,  Fifth, 
and  Seventh,  and  from  the  Second,  Fourth,  Sixth,  and  Eighth  Judicial 
Districts.  The  judge  (of  the  four  chosen  at  large)  whose  term  first 
expires,  presides  as  Chief  Judge.  Six  judges  constitute  a  quorum. 
Every  cause  must  be  decided  within  the  year  in  which  it  is  argued, 
and,  unless  reargued,  before  the  close  of  the  term  after  the  argument. 
"  The  Supreme  Court  has  general  jurisdiction  in  law  and  equity, 
and  power  to  review  judgments  of  the  County  Courts,  and  of  the  old 
Courts  of  Common  Pleas.  For  the  election  of  the  Justices,  the  State 
is  divided  into  eight  judicial  districts,  the  first  of  which  elects  five, 
and  all  the  others  four,  to  serve  eight  years.  In  eacfy  district  one 
justice  goes  out  of  office  every  two  years.  The  justice  in  each  district 
whose  term  first  expires,  and  who  is  not  a  judge  of  the  Court  of 
Appeals,  is  a  Presiding  Justice  of  the  court,  and  the  clerks  of  the 
several  counties  serve  as  clerks. 

"  The  County  Courts  are  always  open  for  the  transaction  of  any 
business  for  which  no  notice  is  required  to  be  given  to  an  opposing 
party.  At  least  two  terms  in  each  county  for  the  trial  of  issues  of 
law  or  fact,  and  as  many  more  as  the  County  Judge  shall  appoint, 
shall  be  held  in  each  year. 

"  County  Judges  are  elected  for  four  years ;  they  are  vested  with 
the  powers  of  justices  of  the  Supreme  Court  at  Chambers,  are  mem- 


348  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

bers  of  Courts  of  Oyer  and  Terminer,  and,  with  two  Justices  of  the 
Peace,  constitute  Courts  of  Sessions. 

"  The  Criminal  Courts  are  the  Courts  of  Oyer  and  Terminer  and 
the  Courts  of  Sessions.  The  Courts  of  Oyer  and  Terminer  in  each 
county,  except  in  the  city  and  county  of  New  York,  are  composed  of 
a  justice  of  the  Supreme  Court,  who  presides,  the  County  Judge,  and 
the  two  Justices  of  the  Peace  chosen  members  of  the  Court  of  Ses- 
sions. The  Presiding  Justice  and  any  two  of  the  others  form  a 
quorum.  In  the  city  and  county  of  New  York  they  are  held  by  a 
justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  alone.  These  courts  are  all  held  at  the 
same  time  and  place  at  which  the  Circuit  Courts  are  held.  Courts  of 
Sessions,  except  in  the  city  of  New  York,  are  composed  of  the  County 
Judge  and  the  two  Justices  of  the  Peace  designated  as  members  of 
the  Court  of  Sessions,  and  are  held  at  the  same  time  and  place  as  the 
County  Courts."  * 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Albany.     For  purposes 
of  government  the  State  is  divided  into  60  counties. 

HISTORY. 

The  first  white  man  who  trod  the  soil  of  New  York,  was  Samuel 
Champlain,  a  French  navigator,  who  entered  the  lake  to  which  he 
has  given  his  name,  on  the  4th  of  July,  1609.  On  the  12th  of  the 
same  month,  Hendrik  Hudson,  an  Englishman,  commanding  a  ship 
in  the  service  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company,  entered  the  bay  of 
New  York,  having  discovered  the  entrance  to  it  three  days  previous. 
He  explored  the  river  which  is  called  after  him,  as  far  as  Albany ;  and 
during  the  next  ten  years,  frequent  voyages  for  trade  were  made  to 
this  region  by  the  Butch,  and  small  trading  posts  were  established  by 
them  at  Manhattan  Island  (New  York  City )  and  Fort  Orange  (Albany). 
In  1623,  Fort  Orange  and  Manhattan  Island  were  permanently  set- 
tled, 18  families  locating  themselves  at  the  former  place,  and  30  at 
the  latter,  which  was  called  New  Amsterdam.  The  English  claimed 
the  territory  by  right  of  prior  possession ;  and  in  March,  1664, 
Charles  II.  granted  it  to  his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York.  In  August 
of  the  same  year,  the  English  took  forcible  possession  of  the  province, 
which  had  been  called  New  Netherlands  by  the  Dutch,  and  changed 
its  name  to  New  York,  which  also  became  the  name  of  the  town  of 
New  Amsterdam. 

*  American  Year  Book,  vol.  ii.  p.  412. 


NEW   YORK. 


349 


-"^tag™^js^ 
^?sjgi^|^3a=sa!=^ ~,^s^=~      t. 


NEW  YORK  rs  1664, 

Under  the  rule  of  James  II.,  the  colony  was  governed  with  an  iron 
hand.  Large  grants  of  land  and  odious  privileges  were  awarded 
to  unworthy  favorites,  but  the  people  at  large  were  oppressed  with 
heavy  taxes,  and  their  industry  hampered  by  burdensome  restric- 
tions upon  manufactures  and  trade.  Frequent  conflicts  between  the 
authorities  and  the  people  were  the  result  of  these  narrow  measures. 
It  was  hoped  that  the  accession  of  William  and  Mary  to  the  throne 
would  bring  with  it  a  change  in  the  policy  of  the  Government  towards 
the  province,  but  this  expectation  was  doomed  to  disappointment. 
The  new  king  was  quite  as  fond  of  high  taxes  as  the  old  one 
had  been. 

Nicholson,  the  Governor  appointed  by  King  Jarnes,  oppressed  the 
people  so  grievously,  that  they  rose  against  him  in  1689,  seized  the 
government,  and  made  their  leader,  Jacob  Leisler,  a  merchant  pf  New 
York,  Governor  in  the  names  of  William  and  Mary.  Leisler  held 
his  place  for  two  years,  although  the  home  Government  never  formally 
recognized  him.  In  1691,  the  king  sent  Governor  Sloughter  over  to 
supersede  him.  Leisler  and  his  son-in-law,  Milborne,  made  some 
slight  resistance  to  the  new  ruler,  and  were  arested,  tried  for  treason, 
and  executed. 

.  The  Indians  gave  great  trouble  to  the  first  settlers,  and  the  early 
history  of  New  York  is  little  more  than  a  record  of  a  continuous  war- 
fare with  the  various  tribes  of  the  Five  Nations.  In  1689,  Scheneo 


350  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

tady  was  taken  and  burnt  by  the  savages,  and  many  of  its  inhabitants 
killed.  During  the  wars  with  the  French  in  America,  many  incur- 
sions were  made  into  the  province  by  the  French  and  Indians,  and  con- 
siderable suffering  was  experienced  by  the  settlers.  The  province  bore 
a  prominent  part  in  these  struggles,  furnishing  many  men  and  much 
money,  and  providing  some  of  the  best  officers  connected  with  them. 
The  country  along  Lakes  George  and  Champlain  was  made  historical 
by  the  events  of  these  wars.  The  victory  over  Dieskau  was  won  at 
the  head  of  the  former  lake,  which  beautiful  sheet  of  water  was  again 
made  memorable  by  the  fearful  massacre  of  the  garrison  of  Fort  Wil- 
liam Henry,  in  1757.  The  fort  had  been  surrendered  to  the  French, 
but  their  Indian  allies  refused  to  respect  the  capitulation.  The  next 
year,  Abercrombie's  army  of  16,000  men,  the  largest  and  best  equipped 
force  that  had  ever  been  seen  in  America,  was  defeated  before  Ticon- 
deroga.  Besides  these  important  events  of  the  last  French  war,  there 
were  many  other  enterprises  connected  with  these  struggles,  in  which 
the  colony  won  considerable  renown. 

New  York  contained,  perhaps,  more  royalist  partisans  than  any  of 
the  colonies ;  but  in  spite  of  this,  the  people,  as  a  whole,  were  warm 
in  their  resistance  to  the  oppressions  of  England,  and  gave  a  hearty 
support  to  the  measures  adopted  by  the  United  Colonies  for  their 
common  protection.  In  October,  1775,  they  forced  Tryon,  the  last 
loyalist  Governor,  to  take  refuge  on  a  British  man-of-war.  Some  of 
the  principal  events  of  the  Revolution  occurred  in  this  State,  which, 
besides  furnishing  its  fair  share  of  men  and  means>  gave  to  the  cause 
many  of  the  brightest  names  which  adorn  it.  The  fortresses  of  Crown 
Point  and  Ticonderoga,  which  were  situated  within  the  limits  of  New 
York,  were  seized  by  the  "  Green  Mountain  Boys,"  of  Vermont,  in 
May,  1775.  The  other  events  of  the  war  occurring  in  this  State,  were 
the  advance  and  retreat  of  the  army  of  Montgomery  and  Schuyler, 
which  was  expected  to  conquer  Canada,  in  July,  1775,  the  battle  of 
Long  Island,  and  the  occupation  of  New  York,  in  February,  1776; 
the  invasion  of  the  State  by  Burgoyne,  in  the  summer  of  1777,  and 
his  subsequent  surrender  at  Saratoga,  after  the  battles  of  Stillwater 
and  Saratoga,  in  October  of  the  same  year ;  the  contests  with  the 
Six  Nations,  who  had  espoused  the  English  cause,  and  the  destruc- 
tion of  their  villages  by  General  Sullivan,  in  1779;  and  the  evacua- 
tion of  the  city  of  New  York  by  the  British,  on  the  25th  of  Novem- 
ber, 1783. 

Immediately  after  the  close  of  the  war,  the  State  was  involved  in 


NEW   YORK.  351 

the  renewal  of  an  old  controversy  respecting  the  territory  now  known 
as  the  State  of  Vermont.  *  For  some  time  it  seemed  that  the  quarrel 
would  result  in  open  hostilities  between  New  York  and  Vermont ; 
but  it  was  at  length  compromised  in  1790,  as  has  been  shown  in 
another  chapter. 

The  original  Constitution  of  New  York  was  adopted  in  March, 
1777.  It  was  revised  in  1801,  1821,  and  1846.  A  fourth  revision 
was  made  in  1868.  Slavery  existed  in  New  York  until  1817,  when 
it  was  finally  abolished.  Indeed,  at  the  time  of  the  seizure  of  the 
province  by  the  English,  in  1664,  it  contained,  in  proportion  to  its 
population,  more  slaves  than  Virginia. 

New  York  was  the  eleventh  State  to  ratify  the  Constitution  of  the 
United  States,  which  was  done  on  the  26th  of  July,  1788. 

The  western  part  of  the  State  was  rapidly  settled  after  the  close  of 
the  Revolution,  but  suffered  considerably  from  the  attacks  of  the 
British  during  the  war  of  1812-15.  The  State  bore  a  conspicuous 
part  in  this  struggle.  The  principal  naval  depot  of  the  Americans 
on  the  lakes  was  at  Sacket's  Harbor,  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  was  the 
object  of  an  unsuccessful  attack  by  the  British.  The  battle  of  Platts- 
burg  and  the  great  naval  fight  on  Lake  Champlain  both  occurred 
within  the  limits  of  the  State,  which  was  also  well  represented  in 
the  gallant  little  navy  which  made  such  a  glorious  name  on  the 
high  seas. 

"In  1796,  the  'Western  Navigation  Company7  was  incorporated. 
This  company  built  locks  around  the  Rapids  upon  the  Mohawk,  and 
dug  a  canal  across  the  portage  at  Rome,  so  that  laden  boats  could 
pass  from  the  ocean  to  Oneida  Lake,  and  thence  by  the  outlet  of  that 
sheet  of  water  to  Lake  Ontario.  Various  plans  were  brought  before 
the  public  from  time  to  time  for  improving  this  channel  of  navigation 
and  for  building  locks  around  Niagara  Falls,  so  as  to  unite  the  waters 
of  Ontario  and  Erie.  In  1800,  Governeur  Morris  conceived  the  bold 
plan  of  bringing  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  Hudson  by  means  of 
a  canal  directly  through  the  centre  of  the  State.  In  1808,  James 
Geddes  made  a  partial  survey  of  the  proposed  route,  and  gave  a  re- 
port highly  favorable  to  the  enterprise.  De  Witt  Clinton  soon  after 
investigated  the  matter,  and  from  that  time  forward  gave  to  the  pro- 
ject the  whole  weight  of  his  influence.  The  war  of  1812  caused  a 
suspension  of  the  work,  but  upon  the  return  of  peace  in  1815,  the  dis- 

*  See  Chapter  on  Vermont. 


352  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

cussion  .  was  vigorously  resumed;  and  in  1816,  a  law  was  passed 
authorizing  the  construction  of  the  canal.  The  work  was  actually 
commenced  in  1817,  and  the  canal  was  finished  in  1825.  It  speedily 
became  the  great  channel  of  trade  and  emigration,  and  poured  into 
New  York  City  the  rich  streams  of  traffic  which  have  made  it  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  the  western  continent.  The  State  has  been 
covered  with  a  network  of  railways,  rendering  communication  between 
distant  points  easy  and  rapid.  The  early  attention  paid  to  internal 
improvements,  and  the  consequent  development  of  internal  resources, 
gave  to  New  York  the  impetus  which  has  placed  it  first  in  commer- 
cial importance,  and  given  to  it  the  name  of ' The  Empire  State/"  * 
During  the  recent  war,  the  State  was  amongst  the  first  and  most 
active  in  its  support  of  the  Government.  It  contributed  to  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Union  a  force  of  473,443  men,  of  which  number  the  city 
of  New  York  furnished  267,551. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  cities  and  towns  of  importance  are  New  York,  Brooklyn,  Buf- 
falo, Rochester,  Troy,  Syracuse,  Utica,  Watervleit,  Oswego,  Newtown, 
Poughkeepsie,  Auburn,  Newburgh,  Elmira,  Morrisania,  Cohoes, 
Flushing,  Hempstead,  Johnson,  Lockport,  Binghampton,  Fishkill, 
Rome,  Schenectady,  Kingston,  Cortlandt,  Yonkers,  Oyster  Bay,  Og- 
densburgh,  Brookhaven,  Huntington,  Ithaca,  Rondcut,  Saugerties, 
and  Green  burg. 

ALBANY, 

The  capital  and  fourth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Albany  county, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hudson,  at  the  head  of  tide- water  and  sloop 
navigation,  in  42°  39'  3"  N.  latitude,  73°  32'  W.  longitude ;  145 
miles  north  of  New  York,  164  west  of  Boston,  and  370  northeast  from 
Washington.  It  is  finely  located,  the  ground  rising  to  the  westward, 
from  the  river  shore  to  an  elevation  of  about  220  feet.  These  heights 
are  divided  into  three  distinct  hills  by  ravines  through  which  con- 
siderable streams  of  water  flow,  viz.,  the  Foxen  Kill,  Rutten  Kill, 
and  the  Beaver  Kill.  The  ravines  have  been  almost  entirely  filled 
up,  and  the  creeks  reach  the  river  by  means  of  huge  sewers  far 
below  the  surface.  "The  view  from  the  most  elevated  points  in  Al- 
bany is  very  fine.  To  the  north  may  be  seen  the  city  of  Troy  and 
adjacent  vilages,  and  in  the  distance  loom  up  the  Green  Mountains 

*  New  American  Cyclopaedia,  vol.  xii.  p.  269. 


NEW   YORK. 


353 


ALBANY. 

of  Vermont.  To  the  east  we  behold  a  beautiful  extent  of  country 
stretching  beyond  the  Hudson  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach ;  and  to  the 
south,  the  Helderbergs  and  the  Catskill  Mountains,  with  t'he  river 
flowing  at  their  base." 

Being  situated  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation,  Albany  has  a  large 
commerce  with  all  parts  of  the  State.  The  Hudson  affords  water 
communication  with  the  sea,  the  Erie  Canal  connects  it  with  the  great 
lakes,  and  the  Champlain  Canal  binds  it  to  Lake  Champlain  and  the 
lower  St.  Lawrence.  Seven  railways  connect  it  with  all  parts  of  the 
Union.  The  Erie  Canal  enters  the  city  at  its  northern  limits.  The 
boats  are  thence  conveyed  to  a  large  basin  covering  32  acres,  which 
has  been  formed  by  constructing  a  pier,  more  than  a  mile  in  length, 
which  cuts  off  and  encloses  a  bend  in  the  river.  A  safe  and  fine 
anchorage  is  thus  secured  for  vessels  and  steamers  during  the  season 
of  ice,  and  the  sides  of  the  basin  afford  excellent  wharfage.  The  trade 
brought  to  the  city  by  the  canals  is  immense,  and  has  been  the  chief 
cause  of  its  rapid  growth  and  prosperity.  The  lumber  trade  is  esti- 
mated at  about  $7,000,000.  About  2,000,000  barrels  of  flour,  over 
23 


354  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

3,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  nearly  2,000,000  bushels  of  barley,  and 
about  5,000,000  pounds  of  wool,  pass  through  Albany  yearly. 

The  city  is  also  largely  interested  in  manufactures.  Iron,  hollow- 
ware,  and  malt  are  the  principal  articles.  Large  numbers  of  stoves 
and  large  quantities  of  beer  are  produced  annually.  Pianofortes, 
hats,  caps,  bonnets,  sleighs,  coaches,  leather,  are  also  produced  in  large 
quantities. 

The  city  is  well  built  as  a  rule,  and  contains  a  number  of  handsome 
edifices.  The  streets  are  more  crooked  and  irregular  than  those  of 
any  American  city,  save  Boston,  but,  with  this  exception,  Albany  re- 
tains few  traces  of  its  origin.  State  street,  extending  from  the  river, 
westward  to  the  Capitol,  is  the  principal  thoroughfare.  The  city  con- 
tains a  number  of  public  squares,  some  of  which  are  handsome.  The 
public  buildings  are  handsome,  though  not  in  keeping  with  the  wealth 
and  importance  of  the  Empire  State.  The  Capitol  was  erected  in 
1807,  at  a  cost  of  $173,000.  It  is  a  plain  building  of  brown  stone, 
from  the  quarries  on  the  Hudson  River,  with  a  Doric  portico  of  white 
marble.  It  is  115  by  90  feet,  and  is  50  feet  high.  It  is  surmounted 
by  a  dome  ornamented  with  a  statue  of  Justice.  In  this  building  are 
the  halls  of  the  two  Houses  of  the  Legislature,  the  offices  of  the 
Governor,  and  Adjutant-General,  and  the  chambers  of  the  Court  of 
Appeals  and  Supreme  Court.  Immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  Capitol 
stands  the  new  State  Library,  a  handsome  modern  fire-proof  edifice, 
containing  more  than  60,000  volumes,  among  which  are  some  of  the 
rarest  and  most  valuable  works  in  print.  The  State  Hall,  a  large 
edifice  of  white  marble,  stands  opposite  the  Capitol,  with  a  handsome 
park  between  them.  It  contains  the  offices  of  the  Secretary  of  State 
and  other  State  officials.  It  was  built  in  1843,  at  a  cost  of  $350,000. 
A  new  and  imposing  Capitol  is  now  in  course  of  erection.  Near  the 
State  Hall,  and  on  the  same  side  of  the  square,  is  the  City  Hall,  also 
built  of  white  marble,  at  an  expense  of  $120,000.  It  is  occupied  by 
the  officers  of  the  city  government,  and  by  the  city  and  county 
courts. 

The  educational  and  scientific  institutions  of  Albany  are  of  a  high 
character.  They  possess  many  of  the  handsomest  buildings  in  the 
city.  In  addition  to  the  free  common  schools,  the  Albany  Academy, 
the  Albany  Female  Academy,  the  State  Normal  School,  for  the  educa- 
tion of  teachers  in  common  schools,  and  the  Albany  University  are 
the  principal.  The  University  embraces  departments  of  law,  medi- 
cine, and  science  in  its  various  branches,  and  connected  with  it  is  the 


NEW    YORK.  355 

Dudley  Observatory,  founded  by  Mrs.  Blandina  Dudley.  The  Mer- 
chants' Exchange,  Post  Office,  and  Exchange  Bank  are  handsome 
edifices.  The  charitable  and  benevolent  institutions  are  numerous, 
and  are  liberally  supported.  The  city  contains  upwards  of  50  churches 
and  6  missions.  The  most  imposing  church  edifice  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  cathedral  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  one  of  the  largest 
churches  in  the  Union.  It  will  seat  4000  persons. 

There  are  several  fine  libraries  in  the  city,  and  the  newspapers  pub- 
lished here  are  influential  and  possessed  of  a  large  circulation. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  pure  water,  which 
is  distributed  in  pipes  from  a  large  reservoir  built  at  an  expense  of 
$1,000,000.  For  purposes  of  government  the  city  is  divided  into  ten 
wards,  each  of  which  elects  two  aldermen,  who,  together  with  the 
Mayor  and  Recorder,  form  the  Common  Council,  or  city  government. 
The  population,  according  to  the  census  of  1870,  is  69,422. 

With  the  exception  of  Jamestown,  in  Virginia,  Albany  is  the  oldest 
settlement  within  the  limits  of  the  original  thirteen  States.  Before 
the  arrival  of  the  whites,  the  Indians  gave  to  the  place  the  name  of 
Scho-negh-ta-da,  "  over  the  plains,"  which  name  the  Dutch  settlers 
afterwards  gave  to  an  Indian  settlement  which  marked  the  present 
site  of  Schenectady,  as  "  over  the  plains  "  from  Albany.  In  Septem- 
ber, 1609,  Hendrik  Hudson,  having  discovered  the  river  which  bears 
his  name,  ascended  it  to  a  point  now  marked  by  the  city  of  Hudson, 
where  he  anchored,  having  spent  nearly  two  weeks  in  the  voyage 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  From  this  point  the  mate  and  a  boat's 
crew  ascended  to  the  head  of  tide  water,  the  present  site  of  Albany, 
27  miles  higher  up  the  stream.  In  1614,  a  fort  and  a  trading  post 
were  established  by  the  Dutch  on  Boyd's  Island,  near  the  .southern 
limits  of  the  present  city.  In  1617,  the  fort  was  carried  away  by  a 
flood,  and  a  year  or  two  later,  a  new  one  was  built  near  the  present 
site  of  Fort  Orange  Hotel,  on  Broadway,  and  called  Fort  Orange  in 
honor  of  the  Prince  of  Orange.  In  1630,  Kiliaen  Van  Rensselaer,  a 
dealer  in  pearls,  of  Amsterdam,  bought  from  the  Indians  a  large  tract 
of  land,  including  Fort  Orange,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson,  and 
sent  out  a  considerable  colony  of  Dutch  mechanics  and  farmers  to  oc- 
cupy his  new  estate.  Seven  years  afterwards  he  purchased  from  the 
Indians  another  tract  lying  immediately  across  the  Hudson,  and  thus 
became  proprietor  of  a  district  extending  for  24  miles  along  the  river, 
and  48  miles  from  east  to  west.  Over  this  region,  to  which  he  gave 
the  name  of  Rensselaerswyck,  he  exercised  sovereign  authority,  as  its 


356  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

patroon,  committing  the  administration  of  matters  of  justice  and  fi- 
nance to  a  commissary -general.  In  1664,  the  province  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  English.  Van  Rensselaer  was  secured  in  his  pos- 
session of  the  soil  by  a  new  patent  from  the  king,  but  the  sovereignty 
passed  to  the  crown.  The  Van  Rensselaer  family  still  retain  a  large 
portion  of  the  orinirial  estate,  and  a  part  of  the  Van  Rensselaer  man- 
sion, built  in  1765,  is  still  standing  in  Albany. 

After  passing  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  the  settlement,  which 
had  been  known  as  Fort  Orange,  Beaverwyck,  Williamstadt,  and  the 
Fuyck,  was  called  Albany,  in  honor  of  the  Duke  of  York  and  Albany, 
afterwards  James  II.,  of  England.  Albany  received  a  city  charter  in 
1686,  with  Peter  Schuyler  as  its  first  mayor.  The  selection  of  the 
mayor  was  fortunate,  as  both  he  and  his  family  possessed  the  confi- 
dence and  friendship  of  the  Indians  to  such  an  extent  that  the  savages 
never  attacked  Albany,  though  they  made  the  neighboring  settlements 
feel  severely  the  terrors  of  their  hostility.  During  the.  Revolution, 
Albany  gave  an  active  support  to  the  patriot  cause,  and  contributed 
many  troops  to  the  American  army.  The  defeat  of  Burgoyne  at  Sara- 
toga saved  it  from  capture,  as  that  general  was  marching  directly 
upon  it.  Sir  Henry  Clinton  also  made  two  attempts  to  reach  it,  both 
of  which  resulted  in  failure.  In  1807,  Albany  became  the  capital  of 
the  State,  but  it  was  a  comparatively  insignificant  town  until  the  in- 
troduction of  steam  navigation  and  the  opening  of  the  Erie  Canal 
placed  it  in  the  path  to  its  present  prosperity. 

NEW    YORK, 

The  largest  and  most  important  city  of  the  State  and  the  United 
States,  is  situated  in  New  York  county,  on  Manhattan  Island, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  River,  18  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
latitude  (of  the  City  Hall)  40°  42'  43"  N.,  longitude  74°  0'  3"  W. 
The  city  limits  comprise  the  entire  county  of  New  York,  embracing 
Manhattan  Island,  Randall's,  Ward's,  and  Blackwell's  islands,  in 
the  East  River,  and  Governor's,  Bedloe's,  and  Ellis'  islands  in 
the  bay,  the  last  3  of  which  are  occupied  by  the  military  posts  of 
the  Federal  Government.  Manhattan  Island  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Harlem  River  and  Spuyten  Duy vel  Creek,  on  the  east  by  the  East 
River,  on  the  west  by  the  Hudson  River,  and  on  the  South  by  New 
York  Bay.  It  is  9  miles  long  on  the  east  side,  13J  miles  long  on 
the  west  side,  and  2J  miles  wide  at  its  greatest  breadth.  It  is  but  a 
few  feet  in  width  at  its  southern  extremity,  but  spreads  out  like  a  fan 


XEW    YORK.  35t 

as  it  stretches  to  the  northward.  The  southern  point  is  but  a  few 
inches  above  the  level  of  the  bay,  but  the  island  rises  rapidly  to  the 
northward,  its  extreme  northern  portion  being  occupied  by  a  series  of 
bold,  finely  wooded  heights,  which  terminate  at  the  junction  of  the 
Hudson  River  and  Spuyten  Duyvel  creek,  in  a  bold  promontory  130 
feet  high.  These  heights,  known  as  Washington  Heights,  are  2  or 
3  miles  in  length.  The  southern  portion  of  the  island  is  principally 
a  sand  bed,  but  the  remainder  is  rocky.  The  island  covers  an  area 
of  22  square  miles,  or  14,000  acres.  It  is  built  up  compactly  for 
about  6  miles,  and  irregularly  along  the  east  side  to  Harlem,  3  miles 
farther.  Along  the  west  side  it  is  built  up  compactly  to  the  Central 
Park,  59th  street,  and  irregularly  to  Manhattanville,  125th  street, 
from  which  point,  to  Spuyten  Duyvel  creek,  it  is  covered  with  country 
seats,  gardens,  etc.  Three  wagon  and  2  railroad  bridges  over  the 
Harlem  River  connect  the  island  with  the  mainland,  and  26  lines  of 
ferries  connect  it  with  Long  and  Staten  islands  and  New  Jersey. 

The  city  is  finely  built,  and  presents  an  aspect  of  industry  and 
liveliness  unsurpassed  by  any  city  in  the  world.  Lying  in  full  sight 
of  the  ocean,  with  its  magnificent  bay  to  the  southward,  and  the  East 
and  Hudson  rivers  washing  its  shores,  the  city  of  New  York  possesses 
a  climate  which  renders  it  the  most  delightful  residence  in  America. 
In  the  winter  the  proximity  of  the  sea  moderates  the  severity  of  the 
cold,  and  in  the  summer  the  heat  is  tempered  by  the  delightful  sea 
breezes  which  sweep  over  the  island.  Snow  seldom  lies  in  the  streets 
for  more  than  a  few  hours,  and  the  intense  "  heated  terms "  of  the 
summer  are  of  very  brief  duration.  As  a  natural  consequence,  the 
city  is  healthy,  and  the  death-rate,  in  proportion  to  the  population,  is 
small. 

The  southern  portion  is  densely  built  up,  and  between  the  City 
Hall  and  23d  street,  it  is  more  thickly  populated  than  any  city  in 
America.  It  is  in  this  section  that  the  "  tenement  houses,"  or  build- 
ings containing  from  10  to  20  families,  are  to  be  found.  In  this 
region  there  are  many  single  blocks  of  dwellings  containing  twice  the 
number  of  families  residing  on  5th  avenue,  on  both  sides  of  that  street, 
from  Washington  Square  to  the  Central  Park,  or  than  a  continuous 
row  of  dwellings,  similar  to  those  of  5th  avenue,  3  or  4  miles  in 
length.  There  is  a  multitude  of  these  squares,  any  one  of  which  con- 
tains a  larger  population  than  the  whole  city  of  Hartford,  Connecticut, 
which  covers  an  area  of  7  square  miles.*  The  greatest  mortality  is 

*  Annual  Cyclopaedia,  1861.  Hartford  at  that  time  contained  a  popula- 
tion of  about  28,000. 


358 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SCENE  IN   BROADWAY. 

in  these  overcrowded  districts,  which  the  severest  police  measures 
cannot  keep  clean  and  free  from  filth.  It  must  not  be  supposed, 
however,  that  poverty  alone  induces  persons  to  live  in  such  houses. 
Many  of  the  most  crowded  districts  are  occupied  by  people,  especially 
foreigners,  who  wish  to  avoid  the  expense  and  trouble  of  more  com- 
modious residences. 

The  southern  portion  of  the  city  is  devoted  almost  exclusively  to 
trade,  comparatively  few  persons  residing  below  the  City  Hall.  Be- 
low Canal  street  the  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and  irregular,  but 
above  this  point  they  are  broad  and  Straight,  and  are  laid  out  at  regu- 
lar intervals.  Above  Houston  street  the  streets  extending  across  the 
island  are  numbered.  The  avenues  begin  in  the  vicinity  of  3d  street, 
and  extend,  or  will  extend,  to  the  northern  limits  of  the  island,  run- 
ning parallel  with  the  Hudson  River.  They  are  generally  100  feet 
wide,  and  are  compactly  built  up.  The  numbered  cross  streets  are 
usually  60  feet  wide,  but  a  few  have  a  width  of  100  feet.  First  street 
is  about  a  mile  and  three  quarters  above  the  southern  end  of  the  island, 
which  is  known  as  the  Battery.  The  main  thoroughfare  is  Broadway, 
which  extends  throughout  the  entire  length  of  Manhattan  Island.  It 


NEW    YORK.  359 

j's  built  up  compactly  for  about  5  miles.  There  are  over  420  miles 
of  streets  in  the  patrol  districts,  and  11  miles  of  piers  along  the  water. 
The  sewerage  is  good  in  the  main,  but  is  defective  in  some  places. 
Upwards  of  300  miles  of  water  pipes  have  been  laid.  The  streets  are 
lighted  by  over  15,000  gas  lamps,  the  footways  are  generally  made 
of  broad  stone -flags,  and  the  streets  are  laid  in  some  cases  with  the 
wooden  pavement,  and  in  others  with  the  Belgian,  or  stone  block 
pavement.  Cobble  stones  are  rapidly  disappearing.  For  so  large  a 
city,  New  York  is  remarkably  clean,  except  in  those  portions  lying 
close  to  the  river,  or  given  up  to  paupers. 

The  city  is  substantially  built.  Frame  houses  are  very  rare.  Many 
of  the  old  quarters  are  built  of  brick,  but  this  material  is  now  used 
to  a  limited  extent  only.  Broadway  and  the  principal  business 
streets  are  lined  with  buildings  of  marble,  iron,  brown  and  Portland 
stone,  palatial  in  their  appearance ;  and  the  sections  devoted  to  the 
residences  of  the  better  classes  are  built  up  mainly  with  brown  stone 
or  Portland  stone,  and  in  some  instances  with  marble.  Thus  the  city 
presents  an  appearance  of  grandeur  and  solidity  most  pleasing  to  the 
eye.  The  public  buildings  will  compare  favorably  with  any  in  the 
world,  and  there  is  no  city  on  the  globe  that  can  boast  so  many 
palatial  warehouses  and  stores.  Broadway  is  one  of  the  most  magni- 
ficent thoroughfares  in  the  world.  The  stores  which  line  it  are  gene- 
rally from  five  to  six  stories  high  above  the  ground,  with  two  cellars 
below  the  level  of  the  pavement,  and  vaults  extending  to  near  the 
middle  of  the  street.  The  adjacent  streets  in  many  cases  rival  Broad- 
way in  their  splendor.  The  stores  of  the  city  are  famous  for  their 
elegance  and  convenience,  and  for  the  magnificence  of  the  goods  dis- 
played in  them.  The  streets  occupied  by  private  residences  are 
broad,  clean,  well  paved,  and  are  lined  with  dwellings  inferior  to 
none  in  the  world  in  convenience  and  elegance.  Fifth,  Madison, 
Park,  and  Lexington  avenues,  and  the  numbered  streets  crossing 
them,  are  lined  with  magnificent  residences  of  brown  or  light-colored 
stone  and  marble.  The  amount  of  wealth  and  taste  concentrated  in  the 
dwellings  of  the  better  classes  of  the  citizens  of  New  York  is  very  great. 

The  city  is  well  provided  with  public  parks  and  promenades.  The 
principal  parks,  commencing  at  the  lower  end  of  the  island,  are  the 
Battery,  containing  10  acres,  and  facing  the  Bay;  the  Bowling  Grten; 
the  City  Hall  Park,  comprising  an  area  of  10  acres,  and  containing 
the  City  Hall,  the  new  Post  Office,  Court  House,  etc. ;  Washington 
Square,  about  9  acres ;  Union  Park ;  Grammercy  Park,  belonging  to 


360 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SCENE  IN  FIFTH  AVENUE. 


the  owners  of  the  residences  facing  it ;  Stuy  vesant  Square,  about  3 
acres,  divided  in  the  centre  by  the  passage  of  2nd  avenue;  Tomp- 
kins  Square,  about  11  acres;  Madison  Square,  6  acres;  and  Hamil- 
ton Square,  15  acres.  These  are  handsomely  laid  off,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Tompkins  Square,  which  is  used  as  a  drill  ground,  and  are 
ornamented  with  fountains,  statues,  etc.,  and  are  kept  in  good  order 
by  the  city. 

The  chief  pleasure  ground  is  the  Central  Park,  situated  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  an  elevated  ridge  extending  along  the  western  side 
of  the  island,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  city,  from  59th  street,  on 
the  south,  to  110th  street,  on  the  north,  and  from  5th  avenue,  on 
the  east,  to  8th  avenue,  on  the  west.  It  is  two  miles  and  a 
half  in  length,  by  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  embraces  an  area 
of  843  acres.  It  is  laid  out  with  great  taste  and  skill,  and  compri- 
ses a  variety  of  landscape,  which  renders  it  one  of  the  most  beauti- 


NEW    YORK. 


361 


VIEW  IN   CENTRAL   PARK. 


ful  and  attractive  parks  in  the  world.  Up  to  the  present  day  the 
outlay  upon  it  has  exceeded  ten  millions  of  dollars.  It  is  divided 
into  the  Lower  Park,  extending  from  59th  to  79th  streets,  and  com- 
prising an  area  of  336  acres  ;  and  the  Upper  Park,  extending  from 
79th  to  110th  streets.  Between  the  Upper  and  Lower  Parks  lie  the 
vast  reservoirs  of  the  Croton  water  works,  which  cover  an  area  of  137 
acres,  and  have  a  capacity  of  1,150,000,000  gallons.  The  Lower 
Park  is  generally  level,  and  is  laid  off  in  lawns,  terraces,  walks,  and 
drives,  with  two  beautiful  lakes,  which  cover  an  area  of  40  acres;  and 
is  ornamented  with  statuary,  flowers,  and  tasteful  buildings.  The 
Upper  Park  is  more  rugged,  and  is  naturally  the  more  beautiful.  If 
is  a  succession  of  charming  hills  and  dales,  whose  beauties  have  been 
increased  and  heightened  by  the  best  landscape  gardeners  and  engi- 
neers. A  museum  of  natural  history,  and  the  beginning  of  a  zoolo- 
gical garden  are  located  in  the  Lower  Park,  near  the  principal  en- 
trance on  5th  avenue;  and  a  museum  of  statuary  has  been  opened  in 
one  of  the  buildings  at  Mount  St.  Vincent,  in  the  Upper  Park.  The 
management  of  the  Park  is  entrusted  to  a  Commission,  appointed  by 


362  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE  WATER  TERRACE  IN  THE  CENTRAL   PARK. 

the  Governor  of  the  State.  Naturally,  the  Park  is  an  object  of  great 
pride  to  the  citizens,  and  is  one  of  the  principal  attractions  to  stran- 
gers visiting  the  city.  It  is  usually  full  of  pleasure  seekers,  of  all 
ages,  sexes,  and  conditions,  and  it  is  pleasant  to  record  that  no  crime, 
of  the  most  trifling  character,  has  ever  been  committed  within  its 
limits.  In  1870,  the  total  number  of  persons  visiting  it,  including 
the  drivers  and  occupants  of  carriages,  was  8,421,427.  Pleasure  boats 
ply  on  the  principal  lake,  and  may  be  engaged  for  a  small  sum ;  and 
"park  omnibuses,"  or  open  carriages  of  a  peculiar  construction, 
under  the  control  of  the  Commissioners,  convey  visitors  through  the 
grounds  for  the  sum  of  25  cents  each.  The  streets  enclosing  the 
Park  are  being  rapidly  built  up  with  elegant  mansions,  and  afford 
•one  of  the  most  delightful  quarters  for  residence  on  the  island. 

New  York  is  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  United  States.  The 
local  trade  of  the  city  is  necessarily  very  great,  but  its  trade  with  the 
rest  of  the  Union  is  enormous,  and  it  conducts  a  large  foreign  com- 
merce. Only  three  lines  of  railway  enter  the  city  limits,  but  14  lines, 
terminating  on  the  shores  of  Long  Island  and  New  Jersey,  connect  it 
with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  At  least  100  steamboats,  large  and 
small,  ply  between  the  city  and  the  towns  on  the  Bay,  the  Hudson 
River,  and  Long  Island  Sound,  while  fully  as  many  steamships  con- 
nect New  York  with  the  more  distant  pjrts  of  the  Union.  Besides 
these,  the  number  of  sailing  craft  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade  is  very 
large.  About  120  first  class  steamers  ply  between  New  York  and 
the  ports  of  Europe,  and  about  20  sail  to  South  American,  Mexican, 
and  West  Indian  ports.  Being  entirely  surrounded  by  water,  New 


NEW    YORK.  363 

York  is  admirably  adapted  to  commerce.  The  largest  ships  can  lie 
alongside  of  its  piers,  of  which  there  are  eleven  miles,  constantly 
crowded  with  shipping,  on  the  North  and  East  River  fronts.  During 
the  year  1870,  the  foreign  imports  of  New  York  were  valued  at 
$315,200,022,  and  the  exports  to  foreign  countries  at  $195,945,733, 
exclusive  of  $58,191,475  in  specie  and  bullion.  About  two-thirds  of 
all  the  imports,  and  about  forty  per  cent,  of  all  the  exports  of  the 
United  States  pass  through  the  port  of  New  York.  In  the  year 
1868,  the  arrivals  at  New  York  from  foreign  ports  were  as  follows : 

Vessels. 

Steamers, ,.    .  694 

Ships, '.    .  390 

Barks, 1,055 

Brigs, 1,499 

Schooners, 1,223 


Total, 4,861 

The  domestic  trade  of  New  York  is  immense.  During  the  year 
1864,  some  of  the  receipts  of  the  port  were  as  follows : 

Barrels  of  wheat  flour, 3,967,717 

Bushels  of  wheat, 13,453,135 

"           oats, 12,952,238 

corn, •  7,164,895 

Bales  of  cotton, 190,911 

Packages  of  pork, 332,454 

beef, 209,664 

"           cut  mer.ts, 268,417     . 

u           butter, 551,153 

"          cheese, 756,872 

Tierces  and  barrels  of  lard, 186,000 

Kegs  of  lard, 16,104 

Barrels  of  whiskey, 289,481 

"         petroleum, 775,587 

In  June,  1863,  the  tonnage  belonging  to  the  port  of  New  York 
was  officially  stated  as  follows :  Registered — permanent,  609,025 ; 
temporary,  237,420.  Enrolled — permanent,  745,330;  temporary, 
17,334.  Total,  1,624,000.  There  was  besides,  97,485  steam  ton- 
nage. This  does  not  include  the  vessels  owned  in  other  cities  and 
States,  or  foreign  vessels  trading  with  New  York. 

The  city  is  amply  provided  with  means  of  communication  between 
its  principal  points.  Lines  of  omnibuses  and  street  railways  traverse 
the  island  in  every  direction,  the  principal  car  lines  continuing  their 
trips  through  the  night.  The  fares  vary  from  five  to  ten  cents.  More 


36.4  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

than  400  street  cars  and  200  omnibuses  are  engaged  in  transporting 
persons  through  the  city.  A  steam  railway,  connecting  the  upper 
and  lower  portions  of  the  island,  is  now  in  construction. 

Communication  with  the  shores  of  Long  Island,  Staten  Island,  and 
New  Jersey  is  maintained  by  26  lines  of  ferries,  employing  over  100 
steam  ferry  boats,  and  transporting,  it  is  estimated,  upwards  of  80,- 
000,000  of  passengers,  and  more  than  3,000,000  of  vehicles  annually. 
The  railway  lines  leading  to  the  city  run  over  400  trains  to  and  from 
points  5  miles  and  upwards  distant  from  the  city.  Fourteen  rail- 
ways lead  directly  to  the  city.  Three  of  these  terminate  within  the 
city  limits,  six  on  the  New  Jersey  shore,  four  in  Brooklyn,  and  one 
on  Staten  Island. 

The  hotels  of  New  York  are  the  best  in  the  world.  They  are 
built  upon  extensive  plans,  and  are  among  the  finest  specimens  of 
architecture  in  the  city.  They  are  fitted  up  luxuriously,  and  afford 
their  guests  every  comfort  and  convenience.  The  principal  are  the 
Astor  House,  the  St.  Nicholas,  the  Metropolitan,  the  Grand  Central, 
the  Fifth  Avenue,  the  St.  James,  and  the  Grand  Hotels;  and  the 
Everett,  the  Clarendon,  the  Albemarle,  the  Hoffman,  the  Coleman, 
the  Sturtevant,  and  the  Gilsay  Houses.  The  Astor  is  built  of  gray 
granite,  and  presents  a  massive  appearance ;  the  St.  Nicholas,  the 
Grand  Central,  the  Fifth  Avenue,  the  Hoffman,  the  Albemarle,  the 
St.  James,  and  the  Grand  are  of  pure  white  marble;  and  the  Gilsay 
House,  a  magnificent  modern  structure,  is  of  iron.  These  Houses 
are  amongst  the  most  elegant  buildings  in  the  city,  and  each  is  capa- 
ble of  accommodating  several  hundred  guests. 

The  theatres  are  numerous,  and  will  compare  favorably  in  splendor 
and  convenience  with  any  in  the  world.  They  are  more  comfortably 
arranged  than  those  of  other  American  cities,  and  are  much  hand- 
somer. The  performances  are  good,  as  a  rule.  There  are  about  30 
first-class  places  of  amusement  in  the  city,  including  theatres,  concert 
halls,  lecture  rooms,  music  halls,  circuses,  summer  gardens,  etc.,  be- 
sides a  number  of  inferior  places.  It  is  estimated  that  during  the 
fall  and  winter  season  about  30,000  persons  nightly  attend  the  per- 
formances at  these  places. 

The  principal  telegraph  lines  of  the  country  begin  or  terminate  in 
New  York.  There  is  also  a  line  connecting  the  principal  points  of 
the  city,  and  used  for  local  business. 

The  public  buildings  are  numerous  and  imposing,  and  the  city  is 
surpassed  by  only  a  few  of  the  capitals  of  Europe  in  this  respect 


NEW   YORK. 


3G5 


CITY   HALL. 


The  C'dy  Hall  is  a  fine  edifice  of  white  marble,  216  feet  in  length, 
situated  in  the  City  Hall  Park.  The  foundation  was  laid  in  1803, 
and  the  building  was  opened  lor  the  use  of  the  municipal  Govern- 
ment in  1812.  It  is  handsomely  furnished  and  decorated  with  paint- 
ings and  statuary.  The  County  Court  House,  in  the  rear  of  the  City 
Hall,  is  a  splendid  building  of  white  marble  in  the  Italian  style  of 
architecture,  250  feet  long,  150  feet  wide,  and  3  stories  high,  the 
whole  being  surmounted  by  a  fine  dome,  the  summit  of  which  will 
be  210  feet  above  the  street.  The  Custom  House,  on  Nassau  street, 
corner  of  William,  is  a  splendid  building  of  Quincy  granite,  erected 
for  a  Merchants'  Exchange,  at  a  cost  of  over  $1,800,000,  including  the 
ground. .  It  is  entirely  fire  proof,  and  covers  the  whole  block,  being 
200  feet  long,  by  171  to  144  feet  wide,  and  124  feet  to  the  top  of  the 
dome.  The  front  is  ornamented  with  a  portico,  resting  on  18  massive 
Ionic  columns.  The  Sub-Treasury  of  the  United  States,  on  W^all  and 
Nassau  streets,  is  built  of  white  marble,  in  the  Doric  style.  It  cost, 
including  the  ground,  $1,105,000.  The  Hall  of  Justice,  or  the 
"  Tombs,"  on  Centre  street,  between  Leonard  and  Franklin,  includes 


366  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC 

the  halls  of  the  Court  of  Sessions,  and  the  police  courts,  and  the  city 
prison.  The  prison  contains  150  cells.  The  building  is  in  the  Egyp- 
tian style  of  architecture,  is  constructed  of  light  granite,  and  is  253 
feet  long,  by  200  wide. 

The  Literary  and  Scientific  institutions  are  numerous.  There  are 
about  260  free  schools  in  the  city,  89  of  which  are  primary,  and  15 
for  colored  children.  The  buildings  used  are  mostly  of  brick,  are 
large,  and  are  provided  with  every  convenience.  The  annual  atten- 
dance is  about  200,000.  They  are  liberally  supported  by  the  city. 
Besides  these,  a  number  of  private  institutions  are  supported  in  pai\ 
by  the  city. 

The  University  of  New  York  occupies  a  gothic  building  of  white 
marble,  on  University  place,  opposite  Washington  Square.  It  was 
founded  in  1831.  It  has  about  25  professors  and  tutors,  and  about 
336  students.  Its  library  contains  over  5000  volumes.  The  New 
York  Free  College,  Lexington  avenue  and  23d  street,  is  a  handsome 
building,  erected  in  1848.  The  students,  whose  number  is  limited  to 
1000,  are  chosen  from  the  pupils  of  the  public  schools  only,  and  here 
receive  a  thoroughly  collegiate  education  free  of  charge.  The  Cooper 
Institute,  on  Astor  place,  is  an  imposing  building  of  brown  stone, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $600,000,  and  presented  to  the  city  of  New  York 
by  Peter  Cooper,  Esq.  It  contains  a  free  reading-room  and  library, 
and  aifords  a  free  education  for  the  poorer  classes  in. the  practical  arts 
and  sciences.  One  of  its  departments  is  a  school  of  design  for  women. 
The  basement  is  occupied  by  an  immense  lecture-room.  The  General 
Theological  Seminary,  West  20th  street,  between  9th  and  10th  ave- 
nues, is  the  principal  school  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church.  The 
other  institutions  of  importance  are  Columbia  College,  49th  street,  be- 
tween Madison  and  4th  avenues ;  the  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  the 
Union  Theological  Seminary,  the  New  York  Historical  Society,  the 
American  Geographical  and  Statistical  Society,  the  New  York  Law 
Institute,  the  College  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  the  College  of  Physicians 
and  Surgeons,  the  College  of  Pharmacy,  and  Rutgers*  Female  College. 

The  Libraries  are  excellent.  The  principal  is  the  Astor  Library, 
founded  by  John  Jacob  Astor,  and  enlarged  by  his  son  William  B. 
Astor.  The  collection  numbers  over  150,000  volumes.  It  is  free  to 
the  public,  and  is  open  daily  (Sundays  and  holidays  excepted),  from 
9  to  5  o'clock.  The  books  cannot  be  taken  from  the  reading-room. 
The  Mercantile  Library,  in  Clinton  Hall,  Astor  place,  contains  about 
90,000  volumes.  Its  privileges  are  extended  only  to  members,  who 


YORK. 


36T 


ACADEMY  OF  DESIGN. 

pay  a  small  subscription  annually.  The  Society  Library,  67  Univer- 
sity place,  contains  over  55,000  volumes,  and  consists  of  one  of  the 
most  valuable  collections  of  books  in  the  city.  Its  privileges  are 
limited  to  members  and  such  friends  as  they  may  introduce.  The 
New  York  Historical  Library,  2d  avenue  and  llth  street,  contains 
over  30,000  volumes,  and  a  valuable  collection  of  coins  and  antiqui- 
ties. The  others  are  the  Apprentices'  Library,  18,000  volumes; 
American  Institute  Library,  10,000  volumes;  City  Library,  5000 
volumes;  Law  Institute  Library;  Young  Men's  Christian  Associa- 
tion Library,  about  15,000  volumes;  General  Theological  Seminary 
Library,  18,000  volumes ;  and  the  Library  of  the  Union  Theological 
Seminary,  26,000  volumes. 

The  Art  Galleries  are,  the  National  Academy  of  Design,  whose 
elegant  hall,  at  the  corner  of  4th  avenue  and  23d  street,  forms  one 
of  the  chief  ornaments  of  the  city ;  and  the  Artists1  Fund  Society. 

The  monuments,  fountains,  etc.,  are  few  in  number,  and  insignifi- 
cant in  appearance.  The  principal  are  the  Worth  Monument,  at  the 
intersection  of  Broadway  and  5th  avenue;  and  the  Martyrs'  Monu- 
ment, in  Trinity  Church-yard. 

The  churches  are  numerous  and  represent  every  denomination  of 
Christians.  Many  are  magnificent  structures,  erected  at  great  ex- 


368  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

peuse  and  in  the  highest  style  of  art.  The  principal  is  Trinity 
Churchy  Protestant  Episcopal,  on  Broadway,  opposite  Wall  street.  It 
was  founded  in  1696,  and  the  present  is  the  third  edifice  which  has 
marked  the  site,  the  others  having  been  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
present  church  was  begun  in  1839,  and  completed  in  1846.  It  is  1 92 
feet  by  80  feet,  and  60  feet  high.  The  steeple  is  284  feet  high,  and 
from  it  the  best  view  of  the  city  and  suburbs,  the  bay,  etc.,  is  to  be 
obtained.  The  church  is  of  brown  stone,  and  is  beautifully  orna- 
mented with  carvings,  sculptures,  stained-glass  windows,  etc.  The 
spire  contains  a  clock  and  a  fine  chime  of  bells.  The  church  is  situ- 
ated in  the  midst  of  an  old  grave-yard,  which  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting spots  in  the  city.  Trinity  Church  is  the  richest  church  in  the 
Union,  its  property  being  estimated  at  over  $60,000,000.  Grace 
Church,  Protestant  Episcopal,  Broadway  and  10th  street,  is  a  beautiful 
structure  of  light-colored  stone,  built  in  1845.  The  interior  is  very 
fine.  The  others,  conspicuous  for  their  elegance  and  splendor,  are 
St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  (Roman  Catholic),  now  building,  on  5th  ave- 
nue and  50th  street,  St.  George's,  Trinity  Chapel,  St.  Paul's  (Metho- 
dist), St.  Stephen's  (Roman  Catholic),  and  the  Temple  Emmanuel 
(Jewish).  The  Bible  House,  occupying  the  square  bounded  by  3d 
and  4th  avenues,  and  8th  and  9th  streets,  is  a  massive  brick  struc- 
ture, and  is  the  property,  and  the  scene  of  the  operations,  of  the 
American  Bible  Society.  Upwards  of  500  operatives  are  employed 
here. 

The  Charitable  and  Benevolent  Institutions  are  numerous,  and  of 
high  and  useful  character.  The  New  York  Hospital,  on  West  59th 
near  the  Park,  the  Institution  for  the  Blind,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asy- 
lum, the  Bloomingdale  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  the  New  York  Orplian 
Asylum  (besides  which  nearly  all  the  religious  denominations  have 
similar  institutions  of  their  own),  the  Bellevue  Hospital,  St.  Luke's 
Hospital,  the  Five  Points  Mission,  the  Home  of  Industry,  the  New 
York  Juvenile  Asylum,  the  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  the 
American  Female  Guardian  Society,  the  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary,  the 
City  Dispensaries  (of  which  there  are  8),  and  the  Lying-in  Hospitals, 
are  the  principal.  Large  sums  are  annually  expended  for  charitable 
and  benevolent  purposes,  by  the  city  and  the  citizens. 

The  prisons  of  the  city,  with  the  exception  of  the  Tombs,  are 
located  on  Blackwell's  Island.  The  city  also  provides  a  refuge  for 
juvenile  delinquents  on  Randall's  Island,  and  a  hospital  for  emigrants 
on  Ward's  Island.  All  of  these  are  provided  with  splendid  and 
spacious  buildings. 


NEW   YORK.  369 

The  cemeteries  lie  out  of  the  city  limits,  with  the  exception  of  that 
belonging  to  Trinity  Parish,  which  is  located  on  the  Hudson,  near 
Washington  Heights.  The  others  number  12,  and  are  situated  on 
Long  Island  and  in  Westchester  county.  The  principal  are  Green- 
wood and  Calvary  on  Long  Island,  and  Woodlawn  in  Westchester 
county. 

The  journals  of  New  York  stand  at  the  head  of  the  American  press. 
The  principal  dailies  are  the  Herald,  Tribune,  Times,  World,  Suv. 
Standard,  Evening  Post,  Express,  and  Evening  Mail.  There  are  140 
newspapers  and  periodicals  published  in  the  city,  claiming  a  circula- 
tion of  over  5000  copies.  New  York  is  also  the  principal  place  in 
the  Union  for  the  publication  of  books.  The  office  of  the  New  York 
Herald  is  one  of  the  handsomest  buildings  in  the  city. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  pure  water  by  means  of  the  Croton  Aque- 
duct, from  the  Croton  River,  a  small  stream  in  Westchester  county. 
The  total  length  of  the  Aqueduct,  to  the  reservoirs  in  the  Central 
Park,  is  about  38  miles.  It  was  begun  in  1837,  and  completed  in 
1842,  at  an  expense  of  $10,375,000.  It  is  the  largest  and  most  mag- 
nificent of  all  modern  constructions  of  its  class,  and  supplies  the  city 
with  an  abundance  of  pure  and  delightful  drinking  water.  The  water 
is  conducted  by  the  Aqueduct  from  the  Croton  River  to  the  reservoirs 
at  the  High  Bridge  (on  which  bridge  it  crosses  the  Harlem  River) 
and  those  in  the  Central  Park,  from  which  it  is  distributed  over  the 
city  in  large  iron  pipes,  there  being  a  small  distributing  reservoir  on 
5th  avenue,  at  the  corner  of  42d  street.  The  buildings,  both  public 
and  private,  of  the  city  are  thoroughly  supplied  with  water.  Up- 
wards of  300  miles  of  water  pipes  have  been  laid  through  the  streets, 
and  every  portion  of  the  city  is  well  supplied  in  this  respect.  The 
capacity  of  all  the  reservoirs  is  nearly  2,000,000,000  of  gallons. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  which  is  supplied  by  several  private 
companies.  There  are  upwards  of  1 5,000  gas  lamps  in  the  streets, 
which  burn  from  dusk  until  dawn. 

The  city  is  divided  into  22  wards,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor 
and  Common  Council,  elected  by  the  people.  The  Mayor  is  chosen 
once  in  two  years.  The  council  is  divided  into  a  Board  of  Aldermen, 
17  in  number,  elected  for  two  years,  and  a  Board  of  Councilmen, 
25  in  number,  chosen  annually.  The  police  force  consists  of  a  Board 
of  Commissioners,  to  whom  the  direct  control  of  the  force  is  entrusted, 
a  Marshal,  and  about  2100  officers  and  men.  They  are  dressed  in  a 
neat  uniform  of  dark  blue  cloth,  are  armed  with  clubs  and  revolvers, 
24 


310  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


HIGH     BRIDGE,     HARLEM. 

and  are  drilled  regularly  in  military  tactics.  There  are  33  precincts, 
including  the  detective  squad.  The  force  is  charged  with  the  duty 
of  guarding  about  300  day  and  400  night  posts,  about  425  miles  of 
streets,  and  14  miles  of  piers.  There  are  25  station  houses  fitted  up 
with  lodging  rooms  for  the  men,  and  having  rooms  also  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  wandering  or  destitute  persons,  large  numbers  of 
whom  thus  receive  temporary  shelter. 

The  Fire  Department  is  under  the  control  of  a  Board  of  Commis- 
sioners. It  consists  of  a  Chief  Engineer,  an  Assistant  Engineer,  10 
District  Engineers,  and  over  500  men  and  46  horses.  There  are  34 
steam  fire  engines,  4  hand  engines,  and  1 2  hook  and  ladder  companies 
in  the  department.  The  men  are  regularly  enlisted,  and  are  paid  by 
the  city.  There  is  a  fire  alarm  telegraph,  with  about  800  stations, 
extending  through  the  city,  and  it  is  so  arranged  that  the  most. inex- 
perienced person  can  at  once  telegraph  the  exact  location  of  a  fire  to 
all  the  engine  houses  in  the  city.  It  requires  but  15  seconds  in  the 
day,  and  one  minute  at  night,  to  get  the  engines  ready  for  action  and 
start  them  on  the  way  to  a  fire.  A  system  of  fire  patrols  is  main- 
tained by  the  city  and  by  the  insurance  companies.  There  are  also  a 
number  of  lofty  look-out  towers,  from  which  a  constant  watch  is 
kept. 

According  to  the  United  States  census  of  1870,  the  population  of 
New  York  is  942,337.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  however,  that  the 


NEW   YORK.  371 

actual  population  is  over  1,000,000.     The  rate  at  which  the  city  has 
grown  is  shown  by  the  following  table : 

Year.  Population. 

1656, 1,000 

1756, 10,381 

1800, 60,489 

1820, 123,706 

1830, 202,589 

1840, 312,852 

1850, 515,547 

I860, 814,287 

On  the  12th  of  September,  1609,  Henry  Hudson,  an  English  navi- 
gator in  the  service  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company,  discovered 
Manhattan  Island.  The  Dutch  made  a  temporary  settlement  on  the 
island  in  1612,  and  established  a  permanent  colony  in  1623,  when  a 
fort  was  built,  and  the  settlement  named  New  Amsterdam.  The  first 
white  child,  Sarah  Rapelje,  was  born  in  the  same  year,  and  in  1626, 
Peter  Minuits,  the  Dutch  Governor,  arrived.  In  1633,  a  new  fort 
was  begun  on  the  present  site  of  the  Battery.  Previous  to  1638  to- 
bacco was  cultivated  and  slavery  was  introduced.  In  1656,  there  were 
1000  inhabitants  and  1 20  houses  in  the  town ;  in  1658,  wharfs  were 
constructed,  and  in  1662  a  windmill  was  built.  In  August,  1664,  an 
English  fleet  arrived  in  the  bay,  and  took  possession  of  the  town  in 
the  name  of  the  King  of  England.  No  resistance  was  offered,  and 
the  name  of  the  town  was  changed  to  New  York,  in  honor  of  the 
Duke  of  York  and  Albany,  afterwards  James  II.,  to  whom  Charles 
II.  had  granted  the  entire  province.  In  July,  1673,  the  Dutch  fleet 
recaptured  the  town,  drove  out  the  English,  and  named  it  New 
Orange.  The  peace  between  Great  Britain  and  the  Dutch,  which 
closed  the  war,  restored  the  town  to  the  English,  November  10th, 
1674,  and  the  name  of  New  York  was  resumed.  The  Dutch  Gov- 
ernment was  replaced  by  the  English  system  under  a  liberal  charter, 
and  during  the  remainder  of  the  seventeenth  century  the  town  grew 
rapidly  in  population  and  size.  In  1700,  New  York  contained  4500 
whiter  and  750  black  inhabitants,  and  about  750  dwellings.  In  1689, 
there  was  a  brief  disturbance,  known  as  Leisler's  Rebellion.  In 
1702,  a  terrible  fever  was  brought  from  St.  Thomas',  and  carried  off 
600  persons,  one-tenth  of  the  whole  population.  In  1696,  the  first 
Trinity  Church  was  built,  and  in  1719,  the  first  Presbyterian  Church 
was  built.  In  1711,  a  slave  market  was  established;  in  1725,  the 
New  York  Gazette,  the  fifth  of  the  Colonial  newspapers,  was  estab- 


372  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

lished;  in  1732,  stages  ran  to  Boston,  the  journey  occupying  14  days; 
and  in  1735,  the  people  made  their  first  manifestation  of  hostility  to 
Great  Britain,  which  was  drawn  forth  by  the  infamous  prosecution  by 
the  officers  of  the  Crown  of  Rip  Van  Dam,  who  had  been  the  acting 
Governor  of  the  town.  In  1741,  a  severe  fire  occurred  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  city,  destroying  the  old  Dutch  fort  and  the  Dutch  church, 
and  in  the  same  year  the  yellow  fever  raged  with  great  violence.  The 
principal  event  of  the  year,  however,  was  the  so-called  negro  plot  for 
the  destruction  of  the  town.  Though  the  reality  of  the  plot  was  never 
proved,  the  greatest  alarm  prevailed ;  the  fire  in  the  fort  was  declared 
to  be  the  work  of  the  negroes,  numbers  of  whom  were  arrested ;  and 
upon  the  sole  evidence  of  a  single  servant  girl  a  number  of  the  poor 
wretches  were  hanged.  Several  whites  were  also  charged  with  being 
accomplices  of  the  negroes.  One  of  these,  John  Ury,  a  Roman  Catho- 
lic priest,  and,  as  is  now  believed,  an  innocent  man,  was  hanged  in 
August.  In  the  space  of  six  months  154  negroes  and  20  whites  were 
arrested ;  20  negroes  were  hanged,  13  were  burned  at  the  stake,  and 
78  were  transported.  The  rest  were  discharged.  In  1750  a  theatre 
was  established,  and.  in  1755  St.  Paul's  Church  was  built.  New 
York  took  a  prominent  part  in  the  resistance  of  the  Colonies  to  the 
aggressions  of  the  mother  country,  and,  in  spite  of  the  presence  of  a 
large  number  of  Tories,  responded  cordially  to  the  call  of  the  Colonies 
for  men  and  money  during  the  war. 

On  the  26th  of  August,  1776,  the  battle  of  Long  Island  having 
been  lost  by  the  Americans,  the  city  was  occupied  by  the  British,  who 
held  it  until  the  close  of  the  war.  It  suffered  very  much  at  their 
hands.  Nearly  all  the  churches,  except  the  Episcopal,  were  occupied 
by  them  as  prisons,  riding-schools,  and  stables ;  and  the  schools  and 
colleges  were  closed.  On  the  21st  of  September,  1776,  a  fire  destroyed 
493  houses,  all  the  west  side  of  Broadway  from  Whitehall  to  Barclay 
street,  or  about  one-eighth  of  the  city ;  and  on  the  7th  of  August,  1778, 
about  300  buildings  on  East  River  were  burned.  On  the  25th  of 
November,  1783,  the  British  evacuated  the  city,  which  was  at  once 
occupied  by  the  American  army. 

In  1785  the  first  Federal  Congress  met  in  the  City  Hall,  which 
stood  at  the  corner  of  Wall  and  Nassau  streets,  and  on  the  30th  of 
April  1789,  George  Washington  was  inaugurated  first  President  of  the 
United  States  on  the  same  spot.  By  1791  the  city  had  spread  to  the 
lower  end  of  the  present  City  Hall  Park,  and  was  extending  along  the 
Boston  Road  (Bowery)  and  Broadway.  In  1799,  the  Manhattan 


NEW   YORK. 


373 


UNION   SQUARE.      STATUE   OF   WASHINGTON. 

Company,  for  supplying  the  city  with  fresh  water,  was  chartered. 
On  the  20th  of  September,  1803,  the  corner-stone  of  the  City  Hall  was 
laid.  Free  schools  were  established  in  1805.  In  the  same  year  the 
yellow  fever  raged  with  violence,  and  had  the  effect  of  spreading  the 
population  by  driving  them  up  the  island,  where  many  located  them- 
selves permanently.  In  1807,  Robert  Fulton  navigated  the  first 
steamboat  from  New  York  to  Albany. 

The  War  of  1812-15  for  a  while  stopped  the  growth  of  the  city, 
but  after  the  return  of  peace,  its  onward  progress  was  resumed.  In 
August,  1812,  experimental  gas  lamps  were  placed  in  the  Park,  though 
the  use  of  gas  for  purposes  of  lighting  was  not  begun  until  1825. 
In  1822,  the  yellow  fever  again  drove  the  population  higher  up  the 
island,  and  caused  a  rapid  growth  of  the  city  above  Canal  street.  In 
1825,  the  Erie  Canal  was  completed.  This  great  work,  by  placing 
the  trade  of  the  West  in  the  hands  of  New  York,  gave  a  powerful 
impetus  to  the  growth  of  the  city,  which  was  now  increasing  at  the 
rate  of  from  1000  to  1500  houses  per  year.  In  1832  and  1834,  the 
cholera  raged  severely,  carrying  off  upwards  of  4484  persons  in  the  two 
years.  In  1835,  the  "great  fire"  occurred.  This  terrible  conflagra- 
tion (December  16th)  laid  648  houses,  almost  the  entire  business 
portion  of  the  city,  south  of  Wall  street,  and  east  of  Broadway,  in 


374  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ashes,  and  inflicted  a  loss  of  more  than  $18,000,000  upon  the  city. 
New  York  rose  from  this  disaster  with  wonderful  energy  and  rapidity, 
but  only  to  meet,  in  1837,  the  most  terrible  commercial  crisis  that  had 
ever  been  known  in  the  country.  Even  this  did  not  check  the  growth 
of  the  city,  the  population  increasing  110,100  between  1830  and  1840. 
In  1842,  the  Croton  water  was  introduced.  In  1849  and  1854,  the 
cholera  again  appeared,  killing  over  5400  persons.  In  1852,  the  first 
street  railway  was  built.  In  1858,  the  Central  Park  was  begun. 

Since  then  the  city  has  grown  rapidly  in  extent  and  population, 
and  is  fast  becoming  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  brilliant  in  the 
world.  It  possesses  every  advantage  for  rapid  improvement,  and  is 
moving  on  surely  to  the  accomplishment  of  a  glorious  destiny. 

BROOKLYN, 

The  second  city  in  the  State,  and  the  third  city  in  the  United  States, 
is  situated  in  Kings  county,  on  the  western  end  of  Long  Island, 
immediately  opposite  the  city  of  New  York,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  East  River.  The  city  extends  from  Newtown  Creek,  including 
Green  Point,  to  the  boundary  below  Greenwood,  a  direct  distance  of 
7J  miles,  and  nearly  10  miles  following  the  low-water  line.  From 
the  river  it  stretches  back  inland  for  about  4  miles.  The  city  proper 
is  divided  into  the  Western  District  (W.  D.),  Williamsburg,  Greenpoint, 
the  Eastern  District  (E.  D.),  and  South  Brooklyn.  The  ground  on 
which  the  city  is  located  is  for  the  most  part  flat  and  low,  and  was 
formerly  marshy,  but  a  portion  of  the  city  is  built  upon  a  line  of  bold 
heights  overlooking  the  bay,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  New  York 
and  the  harbor.  The  general  appearance  of  the  city  is  handsome  and 
attractive.  It  is  well  built,  and  some  portions  of  it  will  compare 
favorably  with  New  York.  The  streets  are  broad,  straight,  and  well- 
paved,  and  many  of  them  are  delightfully  shaded  with  noble  trees. 
Brooklyn  covers  nearly  as  much  ground  as  New  York,  but  its  popula- 
tion is  only  about  one-third  as  great,  and  is  not  so  much  crowded. 
Small  houses  are  the  rule  in  this  city,  large  residences  being  rare, 
except  in  the  wealthier  quarters.  Many  of  the  streets  are  lined  with 
tasteful  cottage  residences,  in  front  of  which  are  yards  of  considerable 
size,  ornamented  with  flowers,  shrubbery,  etc. 

The  site  of  Brooklyn  was  originally  very  irregular,  but  the  constant 
improvements  which  have  been  carried  on  during  the  growth  of  the 
city  have  very  much  changed  the  primitive  appearance  of  the  land. 
Immediately  opposite  the  lower  end  of  New  York,  is  a  ridge  70  feet 


NEW   YORK.  375 

above  the  level  of  the  East  River,  known  as  "  The  Heights."  This 
is  the  wealthiest  and  most  fashionable  quarter  of  Brooklyn,  though  it 
is  now  rapidly  giving  way  to  business  edifices.  The  principal  tho- 
roughfare is  Fulton  street,  stretching  from  the  Fulton  Ferry  to  the 
City  Hall,  from  which  point  it  turns  abruptly  to  the  eastward,  and 
extends  to  the  city  limits,  under  the  name  of  Fulton  avenue.  It  is 
enclosed  as  far  as  the  City  Hall,  about  one  mile,  with  large  and  hand- 
some stores  and  offices.  From  the  City  Hall  eastward,  it  is  less  sub- 
stantially built. 

The  proximity  of  Brooklyn  to  New  York  and  its  facilities  for 
economical  living  have  been  the  chief  causes  of  its  rapid  growth. 
Thousands  of  persons  living  in  Brooklyn  conduct  their  business  in 
New  York,  and  pass  and  repass  between  the  cities  daily.  The  trade 
of  Brooklyn  is  mostly  local.  The  city  is  largely  engaged  in  manu- 
factures, but  its  productions  are  sold  chiefly  through  New  York. 
Large  quantities  of  tobacco  are  manufactured  here,  and  the  city  has  a 
large  trade  in  flour,  sugar  and  whiskey. 

The  public  buildings  are  among  the  handsomest  in  the  country. 
The  City  Hall,  at  the  southern  end  of  Fulton  street,  is  an  imposing 
edifice  of  white  marble,  162  by  102  feet,  and  75  feet  high,  surmounted 
by  a  dome,  the  top  of  which  is  153  feet  from  the  ground.  It  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $200,000.  Just  in  the  rear  of  the  City  Hall,  and 
fronting  on  Joralemon  street,  is  the  County  Court  House,  140  feet 
wide,  and  315  feet  deep,  built  of  white  marble,  in  the  Corinthian  style 
of  architecture.  It  cost  $543,000.  The  Academy  of  Music,  and  the 
Mercantile  Library,  on  Montague  street,  are  built  in  the  modern  Gothic 
style,  of  a  fine  quality  of  brick  ornamented  with  stone,  and  are  among 
the  handsomest  buildings  in  the  city. 

There  are  nearly  200  churches  in  Brooklyn,  in  consequence  of  which 
the  place  is  frequently  called  "  The  City  of  Churches."  Some  of  these 
are  magnificent  edifices,  but  the  majority  are  simple  and  modest  in 
their  appearance.  They  are  all  in  prosperous  condition,  and  there 
are,  perhaps,  few  cities  in  the  land  whose  church  finances  make  so 
favorable  a  showing  as  those  of  Brooklyn. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  public  schools  of  every  grade,  and 
contains  a  number  of  thriving  private  schools  and  academies.  The 
average  attendance  is  over  50,000.  There  are  also  schools  for  colored 
children.  During  the  year  ending  February  1st,  1864,  the  amount 
expended  by  the  city  for  purposes  of  education  was  $229,845.61. 

The  Literary  Institutions  are  of  a  high  character.     The  Mercantile 


376  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Library  contains  about  35,000  volumes,  and  is  supported  by  the  sub- 
scriptions of  its  members.  The  Long  Island  Historical  Society  pos- 
sesses a  fine  collection  of  15,000  volumes,  besides  numerous  manu- 
scripts and  historical  relics.  The  United  States  Lyceum  is  located  in 
the  Navy  Yard,  and  possesses  a  large  and  valuable  collection  of  curi- 
osities, geological  and  mineralogical  specimens.  The  Lyceum,  in 
Washington  street,  possesses  a  splendid  granite  building  and  a  fine 
lecture  hall.  The  Art  Association  holds  two  exhibitions  in  each  year. 
Besides  these,  are  the  Philharmonic  Society,  and  several  other  societies 
devoted  to  literary,  scientific,  and  musical  ends. 

The  Charitable  Institutions  are  the  Long  Island  College  Hospital ; 
the  City  Hospital,  in  Raymond  street,  with  beds  for  170  patients;  the 
Graham  Institution,  for  the  relief  of  respectable  aged,  indigent  females; 
the  Orphan  Asylum  of  the  City  of  Brooklyn,  which  shelters  about  150 
children ;  the  Association  for  Improving  the  Condition  of  the  Poor,  a 
noble  charity,  which  has  in  a  single  year  rendered  substantial  aid  to 
8000  persons;  the  Marine  Hospital,  belonging  to  the  United  States; 
the  Church  Charity  Foundation,  for  the  relief  of  indigent  and  desti- 
tute persons ;  and  the  .Brooklyn  and  Homoeopathic  Dispensaries.  Be- 
sides these,  are  a  number  of  religious  and  private  charities,  which  are 
wrell  sustained. 

There  are  several  small  squares  and  parks  in  the  city,  the  principal 
of  which  is  Washington  Park  (Fort  Greene),  occupying  an  elevated 
plateau  northeast  of  the  City  Hall.  During  the  Revolutionary  war, 
the  site  of  this  park  was  occupied  by  extensive  fortifications  designed 
to  cover  the  Long  Island  approaches  to  the  city  of  New  York.  The 
ruins  of  Fort  Greene,  the  principal  work,  still  remain.  The  park  is 
tastefully  laid  out,  and  commands  a  good  view  of  the  city. 

During  the  last  few  years,  a  large  park,  known  as  Prospect  Park, 
has  been  laid  out  in  the  southwestern  portion  of  the  city.  It  contains 
550  acres,  and  promises  to  be  one  of  the  handsomest  parks  in  the 
Union. 

The  United  States  Navy  Yard  is  situated  within  the  city  limits,  on 
the  south  side  of  Wallabout  Bay,  which  lies  in  the  northeast  part  of 
Brooklyn.  It  occupies  about  40  acres  of  ground,  enclosed  by  a  stone 
wall,  and  contains  a  large  dry-dock,  constructed  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000, 
several  extensive  shops  for  the  construction  of  vessels,  machinery, 
arms,  etc.  It  is  one  of  the  principal  naval  stations  of  the  Republic. 
To  the  north  of  the  Navy  Yard,  stands  the  Marine  Hospital,  in  the 
midst  of  extensive  grounds.  During  the  war  of  the  Revolution,  the 


NEW    YORK. 


3V  7 


TJXITED   STATES   NAVY   YARD,    BROOKLYN. 

British  prison  ships  were  anchored  in  Wallabout  Bay.  Large  num- 
bers of  American  prisoners  of  war  were  confined  in  these  hulks,  and 
it  is  said  that  11,500  of  them  perished  from  ill  usage  and  impure  air. 
They  were  hastily  buried  on  the  shore  of  the  bay.  By  1808,  their 
bones  were  entirely  exposed,  the  tide  having  washed  out  their  graves. 
In  that  year,  their  bones  were  collected  and  deposited  in  13  coffins, 
inscribed  with  the  names  of  the  13  original  States,  and  deposited  in  a 
vault  in  Hudson  avenue,  near  the  present  Navy  Yard.  The  Govern- 
ment property  at  the  Navy  Yard,  not,  counting  the  shipping,  is  esti- 
mated at  $25,000,000. 

The  Atlantic  Dock,  in  South  Brooklyn,  opposite  Governor's  Island, 
is  a  very  extensive  work.  It  embraces  within  the  piers  an  area  of 
nearly  41  acres,  and  can  accommodate  ships  of  the  largest  size.  It 
was  built  by  a  company  incorporated  in  1840,  with  a  capital  of  $lr 
000,000.  The  outer  pier  extends  for  3000  feet  along  Buttermilk 
Channel,  and  is  covered  with  large  granite  warehouses.  It  is  the 
centre  of  one  of  the  largest  grain  trades  in  the  world. 

The  cemeteries  of  Brooklyn  are  used  bv  that  city  in  common  with 


378  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

New  York.  The  principal  is  Greenwood,  in  the  extreme  southern 
part  of  Brooklyn,  about  3  miles  from  Fulton  Ferry.  The  street  cars 
run  to  the  gates.  It  is  beautifully  laid  out,  contains  242  acres  of 
ground,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cemeteries  in  the  world. 
Many  of  its  monuments  are  noted  as  works  of  art.  It  commands  ex- 
tensive views  of  the  ocean  and  of  the  bay  and  city  of  New  York. 
The  cemeteries  of  the  Evergreens  and  Cypress  Hills  lie  about  4  miles 
to  the  eastward  of  Greenwood. 

Brooklyn  is  connected  with  New  York  by  numerous  ferries.  It  is 
lighted  throughout  with  gas,  and  is  abundantly  supplied  with  pure 
water  from  the  Ridgewood  water-works.  There  is  also  a  steam  fire 
dopartment,  and  an  efficient  police  force.  The  city  is  divided  into 
20  wards,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Common  Council.  The 
population  in  1870  was  396,300. 

Brooklyn  was  first  settled  in  1625,  by  a  band  of  Walloons,  sent  out 
as  agriculturists  by  the  Dutch  West  India  Company.  These  settled 
on  the  shores  of  the  bay  now  used  by  the  Navy  Yard,  and  gave  to 
their  settlement  the  name  of  Waalboght,  or  Walloon's  Bay,  which  has 
since  been  corrupted  into  Wallabout  Bay.  From  this  beginning 
sprang  a  straggling  town,  to  which  the  Dutch  gave  the  name  of 
Breuckelen,  from  a  village  in  Holland.  The  first  white  man  who 
actually  settled  within  the  limits  of  the  present  city  of  Brooklyn,  was 
George  Jansen  de  Rapelje.  The  Dutch  Government  bought  the  title 
to  the  land  from  the  Canarsee  Indians,  a  large  tribe  which  dwelt  in 
the  southern  part  of  what  is  now  Kings  county.  In  1641,  the  Dutch 
allowed  the  English  to  settle  on  Long  Island,  on  the  condition  of 
their  taking  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  States  General.  In  1654, 
the  erection  of  the  first  church  was  begun  by  order  of  Governor  Stuy- 
vesant.  It  was  located  at  Flat  bush.  Previous  to  this,  the  settlers 
on  Long  Island  attended  worship  in  New  Amsterdam. 

The  history  of  Brooklyn  untij  the  period  of  the  Revolution  is  un- 
eventful. During  that  struggle,  it  was  the  scene  of  several  important 
events.  On  the  26th  of  August,  1776,  the  battle  of  Long  Island  was 
fought,  the  battlefield  being  within  the  present  city  limits  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Flatbush.  The  American  army  was  defeated  and  compelled 
to  abandon  Long  Island.  The  occupation  of  New  York  by  the 
British  forces  was  the  result. 

Brooklyn  grew  very  slowly  after  its  settlement.  In  1 698,  it  contained 
509  persons ;  in  1800,  3298  ;  in  1820,  7175.  In  1834,  it  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city.  In  1855,  it  was  consolidated  with  the  city  of 


NEW   YORK.  379 

Williamsburg  and  the  town  of  Bushwick,  including  the  village  of 
Greenpoint,  under  the  general  name  of  Brooklyn. 

BUFFALO, 

The  third  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Erie  county,  at  the  eastern 
extremity  of  Lake  Erie,  in  latitude  42°  53'  N.,  longitude  78°  55'  W. 
It  is  352  miles  by  the  Erie  Canal,  and  300  miles  by  the  New  York 
Central  Railway,  west  of  Albany,  and  460  miles  northwest  of  New 
York  by  railway.  It  is  connected  with  Albany  and  the  Hudson 
River  by  the  Erie  Canal,  and  has  railway  connections  with  all  parts 
of  the  Union. 

The  water  front  of  the  city  is  5  miles  long,  half  of  it  lying  along 
Lake  Erie,  and  the  rest  along  the  Niagara  River.  Buffalo  Creek 
extends  through  the  southern  portion  of  the  city,  and  forms  a  part  of 
the  harbor.  "  The  harbor  of  Buffalo  is  now  one  of  the  best  in  the 
great  chain  of  lakes.  The  present  harbor  is  formed  by  Buffalo  Creek, 
the  Black  well  Canal,  the  Erie  and  Ohio  Basins,  and  North  Buffalo 
Harbor.  Buffalo  Creek  is  navigable  for  more  than  2  miles  from  its 
entrance  into  the  lake  for  vessels  drawing  12  feet  of  water.  Nearly 
parallel  to,  and  from  200  to  800  feet  from  it,  is  the  Blackwell  Ship- 
Canal,  one  mile  and  a  quarter  long,  and  connected  with  it  by  4  ship- 
canal  slips.  About  1  mile  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  and  connected 
with  it  by  a  ship-canal  slip,  is  the  Ohio  Basin,  containing  10  acres. 
A  pier  or  breakwater  on  the  south  side  of  the  creek,  and  a  sea  wall 
next  the  lake,  give  ample  protection  from  storms.  On  the  end  of  this 
pier,  extending  about  1500  feet  into  the  lake,  is  a  mole  on  which  is  the 
Government  light-house.  On  the  north  side  of  the  creek  is  another 
pier,  extending  into  the  lake  about  500  feet.  At  nearly  right  angles 
to  the  south  pier,  and  distant  from  it  and  the  north  pier  600  feet,  com- 
mences the  Erie  Basin  Pier,  extending  towards  North  Buffalo  Harbor 
5000  feet,  and  about  1000  feet  distant  from  the  shore  line  of  the  lake. 
The  intermediate  space  between  this  pier  and  the  shore  line,  1000  by 
5000  feet,  is  called  the  Erie  Basin  Harbor,  which  has  sufficient  depth  of 
water  for  vessels  drawing  10  feet.  At  the  lower  end  of  the  Erie  Basin 
sea-wall  is  a  mole,  and  vessels  can  enter  it  at  this  point,  or  from  the 
entrance  through  Buffalo  Creek.  About  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from 
the  mole  of  the  Erie  Basin  Pier  is  the  Black  Rock  Pier,  enclosing  a 
portion  of  the  Niagara  River,  about  2  miles  long  and  from  200  to  600 
feet  wide,  forming  what  is  called  '  Black  Rock  Harbor.7  The  water 
in  this  harbor  is  shoal,  and  only  vessels  of  light  draught  can  enter  it 


380 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


VIEW   FROM  WEST   POINT. 

It  forms  for  more  than  a  mile  the  Erie  Canal,  and  boats  drawing  6  feet 
of  water  can  pass  through  it.  Buffalo  Creek,  the  Black  well  Canal  and 
slips,  the  Ohio  and  Erie  Basin  harbors,  give  abundance  of  sea-room 
to  accommodate  a  fleet  of  300  sail  and  steam  vessels.  The  Erie  Canal 
from  Buffalo  to  Tonawanda,  a  distance  of  12  miles,  is  nearly  parallel 
with  the  Niagara  River,  and  for  a  very  considerable  portion  of  the 
distance  is  only  separated  from  it  by  an  embankment  of  from  100  to 
400  feet  in  width.  The  Niagara  River  from  North  Buffalo  to  Tona- 
wanda, a  distance  of  8  miles,  has  from  16  to  25  feet  of  water,  with 
good  bottom  for  anchorage  and  wide  river  for  a  harbor.  The  rapid 
growth  of  the  West  and  the  large  augmentation  in  the  receipt  of  cereals 
have  given  rise  to  immense  grain  warehouses,  called  elevators,  which 
were  introduced  to  facilitate  and  cheapen  the  transhipment  of  this  kind 
of  produce.  There  are  now  built  and  in  successful  operation  27  of 
these  grain  warehouses,  besides  2  floating  elevators.  They  have  a 
storage  capacity  for  5,830,000  bushels,  and  have  a  transfer  capacity 
equal  to  2,808,000  bushels  in  each  24  hours.  They  were  first  intro- 
duced in  1842.  There  are  6  ship-yards  in  the  city,  4  of  which  have 


NEW   YORK.  381 

dry-docks.  They  will  admit  the  largest  vessels  navigating  the  lakes. 
There  is  a  marine  railway  and  a  very  powerful  derrick  for  handling 
hoilers  and  heavy  machinery." 

The  position  of  Buffalo  has  placed  in  its  hands  the  immense  commerce 
of  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Erie  Canal,  and  its  trade  has  been  greatly 
increased  by  the  great  lines  of  railways  which  connect  it  with  all  parts 
of  the  United  States  and  Canada.  Its  grain  trade  is  enormous,  and 
is  growing  rapidly.  In  1S63,  the  total  number  of  vessels  entering  and 
clearing  at  the  port  of  Buffalo  was  15,376.  These  had  a  total  tonnage 
of  6,757,903.  In  the  same  year  the  trade  of  Buffalo  by  lake,  rail,  and 
canal  amounted  to  $256,214,614.  In  the  same  year  there  were 
received  at  this  port  grain  and  flour  estimated  as  wheat  to  the  amount 
of  64,735,510  bushels.  It  is  not  an  unusual  sight  during  the  season 
of  navigation  to  see  a  fleet  of  15.0  sailing  vessels  and  steamers  enter 
Buffalo  harbor  from  the  west  during  a  period  of  24  hours. 

The  manufacturing  interests  are  increasing  rapidly.  Iron,  leather, 
agricultural  implements,  and  oil  refining  are  the  most  important.  It 
is  believed  that  Buffalo  will  soon  rank  next  to  Pittsburg  in  its  iron 
manufactures.  Its  proximity  to  the  iron  and  coal  regions  of  New 
York,  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  afford  it  great  facilities  for  the  econo- 
mical working  of  this  metal. 

The  city  is  well  built.  The  streets  are  broad  and  well  paved,  and 
as  a  rule  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  stores  and  business 
houses  arc  substantial,  and  in  many  cases  handsome.  The  business 
portion  of  the  city  lies  near  the  water.  Farther  back  are  the  streets 
devoted  to  private  residences.  These  are  generally  well  shaded,  and 
are  lined  with  tasteful  and  sometimes  with  elegant  dwellings.  There 
are  six  public  squares,  viz  :  Niagara,  Lafayette  Place,  Washington, 
Franklin,  Delaware  Place,  and  Terrace  Parks. 

The  public  buildings  include  the  City  Hall,  2  Court-Houses,  the 
City  Penitentiary,  the  City  Jail,  the  Custom  House,  the  State  Arsenal, 
and  the  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association. 

Among  the  Literary  and  Benevolent  Institutions  are  the  Buffalo 
University  and  Medical  School;  the  Young  Men's  Association, 
with  a  library  of  over  13,000  volumes ;  the  Buffalo  Female  Acad- 
emy ;  the  City  and  Marine  Hospitals  ;  St.  Vincent's  Orphan  Asylum  ; 
and  the  Hospital  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  All  of  these  are  provided 
with  handsome  and  commodious  buildings. 

There  are  upwards  of  70  churches  in  the  city,  several  of  which  are 
noted  for  their  beauty  and  grandeur. 


332  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  pure  water,  and  its 
thoroughfares  arc  traversed  by  street  railways.  The  city  is  divided 
into  13  wards,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council  chosen  by  the 
people.  There  are  over  30  public  schools,  besides  a  Central  High 
School,  and  a  number  of  private  institutions  in  the  city.  There  arc 
18  publications  issued  here,  6  of  which  are  daily,  8  weekly,  arid  3 
semi-weekly  newspapers.  The  population  in  1870  was  117,714. 

Buffalo  was  laid  out  in  1801  by  the  Holland  Company,  and  in  1812 
it  became  a  military  post,  at  which  time  it  contained  about  200  houses. 
In  December,  1813,  it  was  captured  and  burned  by  the  British  and 
Indians,  and  only  2  houses  left  standing.  Congress  made  a  donation 
of  $80,000  to  the  settlers  to  assist  them  in  rebuilding  the  place.  In 
1832,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  city,  and  in  1852,  the  charter  was 
amended  so  as  to  include  Black  Hock.  Since  1814,  the  growth  of  the 
city  has  been  very  rapid.  It  contained  only  2095  inhabitants  in  1820, 
its  wonderful  growth  being  confined  almost  entirely  to  half  a  century. 

ROCHESTER, 

In  Monroe  county,  is  the  fifth  city  in  importance  in  the  State.  It  is 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Genesee  River,  7  miles  from  its  entrance 
into  Lake  Ontario,  230  miles  west  by  north  of  Albany,  and  68  miles 
east-northeast  of  Buffalo.  .Latitude  43°  8'  N.,  longitude  77°  51'  W. 
The  ground  upon  which  the  city  stands  is  generally  flat,  and  the  cor- 
porate limits  cover  an  area  of  8  square  miles,  nearly  all  of  which  is 
closely  built  up.  The  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  and  are  well 
paved.  In  the  business  sections  are  many  handsome  buildings,  and 
the  private  residences  are  generally  tasteful  and  often  elegant. 

The  Genesee  River  is  navigable  to  the  city  limits,  but  the  docks  are 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  7  miles  distant.  These  are  con- 
nected with  the  city  by  railway,  and  by  lines  of  steamers.  Rochester 
controls  a  large  trade  on  Lake  Ontario.  The  Erie  Canal  passes  through 
the  city,  crossing  the  river  on  a  fine  stone  aqueduct.  The  Genesee 
Valley  Canal  connects  with  it  here,  and  extends  southward  from 
Rochester  to  the  Alleghany  River.  The  Erie  and  New  York  Central 
railways  and  their  branches  have  added  much  to  the  wealth  and 
importance  of  the  city.  The  unlimited  water-power  afforded  by  the 
Genesee,  has  been  one  of  the  chief  sources  of  the  prosperity  of  Rochester. 
Within  a  distance  of  3  miles,  the  river  has  a  descent  of  226  feet,  which 
it  accomplishes  in  3  perpendicular  falls  of  95,  20  and  75  feet.  The 
upper  falls  lie  within  the  city  limits  and  are  noted  for  their  beauty. 


NEW   YORK.  383 

In  consequence  of  the  possession  of  this  water-power,  Rochester  is  now 
one  of  the  principal  manufacturing  cities  in  the  Union.  The  flour 
mills  are  the  most  extensive  in  the  country.  Shoes,  iron  ware,  wooden 
ware,  clothing,  etc.,  are  extensively  manufactured.  There  is  also  an 
extensive  trade  in  produce,  which  is  collected  here  for  shipment  to 
other  markets.  The  nurseries  of  Rochester  are  famous,  and  are 
unsurpassed. 

The  public  buildings  of  the  city  are  handsome.  The  principal  are 
the  City  Hall,  and  the  Arcade,  the  latter  containing  the  Post  Office 
and  other  Federal  offices. 

The  Educational  and  Literary  Institutions  are  the  University  of 
Rochester,  with  a  fine  edifice  of  brown  stone,  and  an  endowment  of 
$200,000 ;  the  Rochester  Theological  Seminary,  under  the  control  of 
the  Baptists;  the  Athenaeum;  the  Public  Library;  and  the  Free  Aca- 
demy. There  over  20  public  schools,  in  excellent  condition,  and  a 
number  of  private  schools. 

The  Charitable  and  Benevolent  Institutions  are  St.  Mary's  Hospi- 
tal, the  City  Hospital,  the  Industrial  School,  the  Home  for  the  Friend- 
less, an  Insane  Asylum,  two  Orphan  Asylums,  and  the  Western  House 
of  Refuge,  for  boys,  belonging  to  the  State. 

There  are  over  45  churches  in  the  city,  many  of  them  elegant 
structures.  The  city  is  well  supplied  with  water,  and  is  lighted  with 
gas.  Street  railways  afford  communication  between  its  various  parts. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  The  population  in  1870 
was  62,315. 

Rochester  was  settled  in  1812,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  Colonel 
Nathaniel  Rochester,  one  of  the  pioneers  of  the  city.  It  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city  in  1834. 

TROY, 

The  sixth  city  in  the  State,  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Hudson  River, 
at  the  mouth  of  Poestenkill  Creek,  at  the  head  of  steamboat  naviga- 
tion, 6  miles  northeast  of  Albany,  and  151  miles  north  of  New  York. 
The  principal  portion  of  the  city  lies  immediately  along  the  river,  for 
about  3  miles,  communication  between  the  two  banks  being  main- 
tained by  means  of  a  bridge  and  ferry  boats.  The  city  lies  in  a  plain. 
At  the  southern  end  of  the  east  side  rises  a  bold  hill,  called  Mount 
Ida,  from  which  an  extensive  view  may  be  gained  of  Troy,  the  river, 
and  the  surrounding  country.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  city  is  a 
rugged  mass  of  rock,  200  feet  high,  called  Mount  Olympus. 


334  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out.  The  streets,  GO  feet  in  width,  cross 
each  other  at  right  angles,  except  the  principal  business  thoroughfare, 
River  street,  which  follows  the  course  of  the  Hudson,  and  is  lined 
with  large  warehouses  and  hotels.  The  streets  are  well  paved,  as  a 
rule,  are  handsomely  shaded,  and  are  lighted  with  gas.  The  city  is 
well  built,  and  those  portions  occupied  with  private  residences  are 
very  beautiful.  There  are  several  handsome  parks  or  public  squares 
in  the  city  limits. 

Troy  is  favorably  situated  for  commerce,  and  has  a  large  trade 
along  the  river,  and  with  the  interior.  It  has  railway  communicatidn 
with  all  parts  of  the  country ;  the  Hudson  gives  it  water  transporta- 
tion to  New  York  and  the  ocean ;  the  Erie  Canal  connects  it  with 
the  Great  Lakes,  and  the  Champlain  Canal  with  the  lower  St.  Law- 
rence. Troy  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures.  Flour,  paper, 
cotton  and  woollen  goods,  leather,  nails  and  iron  ware,  including  rail- 
road iron,  carpets,  brushes,  and  stone  ware  are  made  in  large  quanti- 
ties. 

The  public  buildings  are  handsome.  The  most  imposing  is  the 
Court  House,  a  fine  marble  edifice  in  the  Doric  style. 

The  Educational  and  Literary  Institutions  are,  the  Troy  Academy  ; 
the  Rensselaer  Institute,  affording  a  thorough  education  in  the  exact 
sciences ;  the  Troy  Female  Seminary,  established  by  Mrs.  Emma  Wil- 
lard  in  1821 ;  the  Lyceum,  and  the  Young  Men's  Association.  There 
are  two  public  schools  to  each  ward,  besides  a  number  of  night  schools. 
There  are  also  several  flourishing  private  schools. 

The  Charitable  and  Benevolent  Institutions  are  well  supported. 
The  principal  are  the  Troy  Hospital,  the  Marshal  Infirmary,  the 
Troy  Orphan  Asylum,  and  St.  Mary's  Orphan  Asylum. 

There  are  a  number  of  churches  in  Troy,  some  of  which  are  amongst 
the  handsomest  in  the  Union. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  a  neighboring  stream. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  is  provided  with  street 
railways,  an  efficient  police  force,  and  a  steam  fire  department.  The 
population  in  1870  was  46,465. 

In  1720,  Derick  Yanderheyden  acquired  from  Van  Rensselaer  the 
title  to  400  acres  of  land,  now  included  in  Troy,  at  an  annual  rent  of 
3}  bushels  of  wheat  and  4  fut  fowls.  The  tract  was  converted  into  a 
farm,  and  so  used  until  1786,  when  a  company  of  New  Englanders 
induced  its  ov,rners  to  lay  it  out  as  a  town.  It  was  surveyed  between 
1786  and  1790,  and  was  variously  known  as  "Ferry  Hook,"  "Van- 


NEW    YORK.  385 

derheyden's  Ferry,"  and  "Ashley's  Ferry."  In  1789,  it  contained 
about  a  dozen  dwellings,  and  5  small  stores.  A  meeting  of  the  free- 
holders was  held  on  the  5th  of  January,  1789,  and  the  place  was 
named  Troy.  Until  the  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal  it  was  a  mere 
village.  It  owes  its  prosperity  in  a  large  measure  to  that  great  work. 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1816. 

West  Troy,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson,  in  Albany  county, 
and  Green  Island  village,  on  an  island  of  that  name,  above  West 
Troy,  are  but  suburbs  of  the  city  of  Troy. 

SYRACUSE, 

The  seventh  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Onondaga  county,  at 
the  southern  end  of  Onondaga  Lake,  and  on  a  creek  bearing  the  same 
name.  It  is  148  miles  west  by  north  of  Albany. 

The  site  is  nearly  level.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  in  squares, 
and  the  streets  are  broad  and  well  paved.  The  business  streets  are 
lined  with  warehouses  of  brick  and  stone,  and  the  private  streets  are 
delightfully  shaded,  and  are  occupied  with  tasteful  cottages,  and  in 
some  cases  with  more  pretentious  dwellings. 

The  city  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railway ; 
with  the  Hudson  and  Lake  Erie  by  the  Erie  Canal ;  and  the  Oswego 
Canal  connects  it  with  Lake  Ontario.  It  is  the  centre  of  a  large  and 
thriving  trade.  Its  principal  industry  is  the  manufacture  of  salt,  of 
which  it  is  the  principal  seat  in  this  country.  The  land  in  which  the 
saline  springs  are  found,  is  owned  by  the  State,  and  is  leased  free  of 
charge  for  the  manufacture  of  salt  alone.  The  wells  are  sunk,  and 
the  water  pumped  from  them,  at  the  expense  of  the  State,  the  manu- 
facturer paying  a  tax  of  1  cent  per  bushel  for  this  service.  A  few  of 
the  wells  are  400  feet  deep.  In  1861,  the  total  amount  of  salt  pro- 
duced here  was  9,053,874  bushels.  The  salt  is  fully  equal  in  quality 
to  the  famous  Turk's  Island  salt.  Syracuse  is  also  largely  engaged 
in  the  manufacture  of  machinery,  steam  engines,  agricultural  imple- 
ments, stoves,  woollen  goods,  leather,  and  flour. 

The  City  Hall  is  the  principal  public  building.  Besides  this  the 
city  contains  2  immense  halls  used  for  public  meetings. 

The  public  schools  are  well  conducted,  and  generally  attended. 
There  are  several  fine  private  schools  in  the  city. 

The  Charitable  and  Benevolent  Institutions  consist  of  the  Onondaga 
County  Orphan  Asylum,  the  Syracuse  Home  Association  for  the  ^Relief 
of  the  Poor,  and  the  New  York  State  Asylum  for  Idiots. 
25 


386  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  churches  are  numerous  and  well  supported,  and  are  among  the 
principal  ornaments  of  the  city. 

Syracuse  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  is  provided 
with  street  railways,  is  supplied  with  water,  and  is  lighted  with  gas. 
The  population  in  1870  was  43,058. 

Syracuse  was  first  settled  by  an  Indian  trader,  named  Ephraim 
Webster,  who  located  near  the  mouth  of  Onondaga  Creek  in  1786. 
In  17&8  or  1789,  John  Danforth  located  at  "Salt  Point/'  and  began 
the  manufacture  of  salt.  The  salt  springs  soon  drew  other  settlers, 
and  a  town  was  speedily  formed,  which  took  the  name  of  SaUna,  and 
became  the  most  important  place  in  the  county.  Syracuse,  Webster's 
village,  did  not  thrive  as  rapidly  as  Salina  at  first,  but  in  1829,  the  popu- 
lation of  the  two  towns,  which  lay  side  by  side,  was  about  the  same. 
The  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal  gave  a  great  impetus  to  both,  but 
Syracuse  became  from  that  date  the  more  prominent  place.  In  1847, 
the  city  of  Syracuse  was  incorporated,  including  in  its  limits  the 
towns  of  Salina  and  Lodi. 

UTICA, 

The  eighth  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Mohawk  River,  in  Oneida  county,  95  miles  west-northwest  of  Albany. 
The  site  is  nearly  level,  the  ground  rising  slightly  toward  the  north. 
It  is  one  of  the  handsomest  and  best-built  cities  in  the  State  or  the 
Union.  The  streets  are  wide,  well-paved,  shaded  with  fine  trees ;  and 
the  stores  and  residences,  which  are  mostly  of  brick  and  stone,  are 
substantial  and  showy. 

The  public  buildings  are  attractive,  and  are  situated  chiefly  on 
Genesee  street. 

The  public  schools  are  well  conducted,  and  include  all  the  depart- 
ments from  the  primary  to  a  thorough  academic  course.  Besides 
these  the  city  contains  several  fine  private  schools. 

The  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  on  the  western  verge  of  the  city,  is  a 
noble  institution,  and  is  provided  with  handsome  edifices. 

There  are  about  26  churches,  the  most  of  which  are  well  built  and 
tastefully  decorated. 

Utica  is  connected  with  the  East  and  West  by  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral Railway,  which  passes  through  the  town.  It  is  the  southern 
terminus  of  the  Utica  and  Black  River  Railway.  The  Erie  Canal 
connects  it  with  the  Hudson  and  the  Great  Lakes,  and  the  Chenango 
Canal  extends  from  Utica  to  Binghampton,  97  miles.  The  city  lies 


NEW   YORK.  387 

in  the  midst  of  a  populous  and  fertile  country,  and  possesses  a  con- 
siderable trade.  It  is  also,  to  a  limited  extent,  engaged  in  manufac- 
turing enterprises. 

It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  is  lighted  with  gas, 
and  supplied  with  pure  water.  The  population  in  1870  was  28,804. 

Utica  is  built  upon  the  site  of  Fort  Schuyler,  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant forts  of  the  Revolution.  The  settlement  of  the  village  began 
soon  after  the  close  of  the  war;  but  it  grew  slowly.  In  1813,  it  had 
but  1700  inhabitants.  The  completion  of  the  Erie  CauaJ  gave  it  the 
impetus  which  has  carried  it  to  its  present  prosperity. 

OSWEGO, 

The  ninth  city  in  the  State,  is  situated,  in  Oswego  county,  on  the 
southeast  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  at'  the  mouth  of  and  on  both  sides 
of  the  Oswego  River,  183  miles  west-northwest  of  Albany.  Although 
the  ninth  in  population,  Oswego  is  one  of  the  most  important  cities  in 
the  State.  It  is  the  largest  American  to\vn  on  Lake  Ontario.  It  is 
handsomely  built.  The  streets  are  100  feet  wide,  and  intersect  each 
other  at  right  angles.  The  city  is  divided  by  the  river  into  two  parts, 
nearly  equal  in  size,  connected  by  bridges  placed  above  the  limits  of 
ship  navigation. 

The  public  buildings  are  handsome,  and  consist  of  a  City  Hall, 
Market  House,  Court  House,  Custom  House,  and  Prison.  There  are 
12  churches  in  the  city. 

The  public  schools  are  organized  under  a  special  act  of  the  Legis- 
lature, and  are  among  the  best  in  the  State.  Besides  schools  for  each 
ward,  there  is  a  high  school,  in  which  the  languages  and  higher 
branches  of  education  are  taught. 

There  are  several  benevolent  institutions  in  the  city,  the  principal 
of  which  is  the  Orphan  Asylum. 

The  harbor  of  Oswego  is  one  of  the  best  on  Lake  Ontario.  The 
mouth  of  the  river  admits  vessels  of  the  largest  class  navigating  the 
lakes,  and  the  erection  of  piers  and  a  lighthouse  by  the  United  States 
Government,  has  made  it  one  of  the  safest  and  most  accessible  harbors 
on  the  frontier.  It  combines  all  the  advantages  of  canal  and  railway 
transportation  with  that  of  being  the  nearest  lake  port  to  tide- water. 
A  hydraulic  canal,  extending  along  both  sides  of  the  river,  is  'thickly 
lined  with  mills,  grain  elevators  and  warehouses,  and  manufacturing 
establishments.  The  Oswego  River  receives  the  waters  of  Oneida, 
Cayuga,  Seneca,  Onondaga,  and  several  other  lakes,  besides  numerous 


388 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


OSWEGO. 

tributary  streams.  These  lakes  form  natural  reservoirs,  which  pre- 
vent floods  or  undue  exhaustion,  the  extreme  elevation  and  depression 
of  the  river  not  exceeding  3  feet,  so  that  destructive  freshets,  so  com- 
mon to  great  water-power  rivers,  never  occur.  The  river  falls  S  i 
feet  within  the  limits  of  the  city,  and  thus  furnishes  immense  water- 
power,  but  a  small  portion  of  which  has  been  utilized. 

The  situation  of  Oswego  being  nearer  to  the  St.  Lawrence  and  to 
New  York  than  any  other  lake  port,  gives  it  peculiar  advantages. 
It  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  rail,  and  with  the 
Erie  Canal  and  Hudson  River  by  the  Oswego  Canal,  which  joins  the 
Erie  at  Syracuse.  It  is  the  greatest  wheat  market  in  the  State,  and 
controls  nearly  one-half  of  the  entire  commerce  of  the  United  States 
with  Canada.  In  1862,  its  receipts  of  grain  were  as  follows  : 

Flour,  235,382  barrels;  Wheat,  10,982,132  bushels;  Corn,  4,- 
528,962  bushels;  Oats,  187,284  bushels;  Rye,  130,175  bushel*; 
Barley,  1,050,364  bushels. 

The  city  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  is  lighted  with 
gas,  and  supplied  with  pure  water.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
20,910. 

Oswego  was  originally  settled  by  the  French,  who  established  a 


NEW   YORK.  389 

trading  post  there,  and  erected  a  fort,  soon  after  the  settlement  of 
Quebec.  In  1700,  the  English  explored  the  country  of  the  Five  Na- 
tions; and  in  1722,  built  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  At  the 
outbreak  of  the  "Old  French  War/'  1753,  Fort  Ontario  was  built 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river;  and  in  1755,  another  fort  was  built 
on  the  west  bank.  In  the  summer  of  1756,  the"  French,  under  Mont- 
calm,  crossed  the  lake  from  Fort  Frontenac  (Kingston),  captured  the 
forts,  after  a  three  days'  siege,  burned  them,  and  withdrew.  In  1758, 
Colonel  Bradstreet,  with  3350  men,  crossed  to  Fort  Frontenac,  and 
destroyed  it,  and  returning  to  Oswego,  rebuilt  the  forts  there.  Fort 
Ontario  was  enlarged,  and  was  reconstructed  in  the  most  substantial 
manner.  In  1760,  Lord  Amherst's  strong  army  embarked  from  Os- 
wego in  the  expedition  against  Quebec.  During  the  Revolution  it 
remained  in  the  hands  of  the  British,  who  kept  a  strong  garrison  in  it. 
From  this  point  they  sent  out  many  of  the  marauding  parties  that 
carried  the  torch  and  sword  along  the  frontier.  They  held  it  until 
1796,  when  it  was  surrendered  in  accordance  with  the  provisions  of 
Jay's  Treaty.  They  destroyed  the  fortifications,  and  left  it  as  new  a.j 
though  it  were  virgin  to  the  white  man's  tread. 

In  1797,  Neil  McMullin,  a  merchant  of  Kingston,  settled  on  the 
spot,  bringing  with  him  a  frame  house  made  in  Kingston.  By  the 
beginning  of  the  second  war  with  England,  a  thriving  settlement  had 
been  formed  there.  This  war  greatly  retarded  the  growth  of  the 
town,  which,  in  May,  1814,  was  bombarded  and  captured  by  the 
British  fleet  under  Sir  James  Yeo.  After  the  return  of  peace,  Oswego 
increased  in  size  and  population,  but  was  a  place  of  but  little  impor- 
tance until  after  the  construction  of  the  Welland  and  Oswego 
canals. 

In  1816,  steam  navigation  was  introduced  on  Lake  Ontario,  and 
this  has  contributed  considerably  to  the  growth  of  Oswego.  The 
principal  pursuit  of  its  inhabitants  previous  to  the  opening  of  the  Os- 
wego Canal,  in  1828,  was  ship  building.  It  was  incorporated  as  a 
city  in  1848. 

The  other  important  cities  and  towns  of  the  State  are,  Poughkeep- 
sie,  20,080  inhabitants;  Newtown,  20,274 ;  Auburn,  17,225;  New- 
burg,  17,014;  Elmira,  15,863;  Cohoes,  15,357;  Flushing,  14,600; 
Hempstead,  13,999;  Johnson,  12,273;  Lockport,  12,426 ;  Fishhill, 
11,752;  Kingston,  11,820;  Yonkers,  11,997. 


300  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

MISCELLANIES. 
ANCIENT    LAWS    OF    THE    PROVINCE    OP    NEW   YORK. 

The  following  laws  are  extracted  from  those  established  by  the  Duke  of  York 
for  the  government  of  New  York,  in  the  year  1664.  This  code  (called  the 
"Duke's  Laws")  was  compiled  under  the  direction  of  -Nicolls,  the  first  English 
Governor.  It  continued  in  force  till  the  period  of  the  Revolution  in  England, 
and  ceased  to  have  effect  in  1691,  when  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Province 
began  to  exercise  a  new  legislative  power  under  the  sovereignty  of  King  William: 

Capital  Laws. — I.  If  any  person  within  this  Government  shall  by  direct  ex- 
prcst,  impious  or  presumptuous  ways,  deny  the  true  God  and  his  Attributes,  he 
shall  be  put  to  death. 

2.  If  any  person  shall  Commit  any  wilful  and  premeditated  Murder,  he  shall  be 
put  to  Death. 

'3.  If  any  person  Slayeth  another  with  Sword  or  Dagger  who  hath  no  weapon 
to  defend  himself;  he  shall  be  put  to  Death. 

4.  If  any  person  forcibly  Stealelh  or  carrieth  away  any  mankind  ;  lie.  shall  Vj 
put  to  death. 

5.  If  any  person  shall  bear  false  witness  maliciously  and  on  purpose  to  take 
away  a  man's  life,  He  shall  be  put  to  Death. 

6.  If  any  man  shall  Traitorously  deny  his  Majestyes  right  and  titles  to  his 
Crowncs  and  Dominions,  or  shall  raise  armies  to  resist  his  Authority,  He  shall  be 
put  to  Death. 

7.  If  any  man  shall  treacherously  conspire  or  Publiquely  attempt  to  invade  or 
Surprise  any  Town  or  Towns,  Fort  or  Forts,  within  this  Government,  He  shall 
be  put  to  Death. 

8.  If  any  Child  or  Children,  above  sixteen  years  of  age,  and  of  Sufficient  under- 
standing, shall  smite  their  natural  Father  or  Mother,  unless  thereunto  provoked  and 
forct  for  their  selfe  preservation  from  Death  or  Mayming,  at  the  Complaint  of  the 
said  Father  and  Mother,  and  not   otherwise,  they  being   Sufficient  wiinesses 
thereof,  that  Child  or  those  Children  so  offending  shall  be  put  to  Death. 

Bond  Slavery. — No  Christian  shall  be  kept  in  Bondslavery  villenage  or  Cap- 
tivity, Except  Such  who  shall  be  Judged  thereunto  by  Authority,  or  such  as  wil- 
lingly have  sould,  or  shall  sell  themselves,  In  which  Case  a  Record  of  sucli 
Servitude  shall  be  entered  in  the  Court  of  Sessions  held  for  that  Jurisdiction 
where  Such  Matters  shall  Inhabit,  provided  that  nothing  in  the  Law  Contained 
shall  be  to  the  prejudice  of  Master  or  Dame  who  have  or  shall  by  any  Indenture 
or  Covenant  take  Apprentices  for  Terme  of  Years,  or  other  Servants  for  Term 
of  years  or  Life. 

Church. — Whereas  the  publique  Worship  of  God  is  much  discredited  for  want 
of  painful  and  able  Ministers  to  Instruct  the  people  in  the  true  Religion  and  for 
want  of  Convenient  places  Capable  to  receive  any  Number  or  Assembly  of  people 
in  a  decent  manner  for  Celebrating  Gods  holy  Ordinances.  These  ensueing  Lawes 
are  to  be  observed  in  every  parish  (Viz.) 

1.  That  in  each  Parish  within  this  Government  a  church  be  built  in  the  most 
Convenient  part  thereof,   Capable  to  receive  and  accommodate  two  Hundred 
Persons. 

2.  To  prevent  Scandalous  and  Ignorant  pretenders  to  the  Ministry  from  in- 


NEW   YORK.  CDi 

trading  themselves  as  Teachers ;  No  Minister  shall  be  Admitted  to  Officiate, 
within  the  Government  but  such  as  shall  produce  Testimonials  to  the  Governour, 
that  he  hath  Received  Ordination  either  from  some  Protestant  Bishop,  or  Minis- 
ter within  some  part  of  his  Majesties  Dominions  or  the  Dominions  of  any  foreign 
Prince  of  the  Reformed  Religion,  upon  which  Testimony  the  Governour  shall 
induce  the  said  Minister  into  the  parish  that  shall  make  presentation  of  him,  as 
duely  Elected  by  the  Major  part  of  the  Inhabitants  householders. 

3.  That  the  Minister  of  every  Parish  shall  Preach  constantly  every  Sunday, 
and  shall  also  pray  for  the  Kinge,  Queene,  Duke  of  Yorke,  and  the  Royall  fam- 
ily. And  every  person  affronting  or  disturbing  any  Congregation  on  the  Lords 
Day  and  on  such  publique  days  of  fast  and  Thanksgiving  as  are  appointed  to  be 
observed.  After  the  presentments  thereof  by  the  Churchwardens  to  the  Sessions 
and  due  Conviction  thereof  he  shall  be  punished  by  fine  or  Imprisonment  accord- 
ing to  the  merit  and  Nature  of  the  offence,  And  every  Minister  shall  also  Pub- 
iiquely  Administer  the  Sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  once  every  Year  at  the 
least  in  his  Parish  Church  not  denying  the  private  benefit  thereof  to  Persons  that 
for  want  of  health  shall  require  the  same  in  their  houses,  under  the  penalty  of 
Loss  of  preferment  unless  the  Minister  be  restrained  in  point  of  Conscience. 

Fasting  Days  and  Days  of  Thanks  gimn  To  be  observed. — Whereas  by  an  Act 
of  Parliament  the  fifth  Day  of  November  is  annually  to  be  observed  for  the  Great 
deliverance  from  the  Gunpowder  Treason,  And  whereas  by  one  other  Act  of 
Parliament  The  thirtyeth  Day  of  January  is  annually  to  be  observed  with  Fast- 
ing and  Prayer  in  all  his  Majesties  Dominions  to  shew  a  hearty  and  Serious  Re- 
pentance and  Detestation  of  that  Barbarous  Murther  Commited  upon  the  Person 
of  our  late  King  Charles  the  first,  thereby  to  divert  Gods  heavy  Judgment  from 
falling  upon  the  whole  Nation,  as  also  by  another  Act  of  Parliament  we  are  en- 
joyned  thankfully  to  acknowledge  the  providence  of  God  upon  the  Nine  and 
Twentyeth  Day  of  May  for  his  Majesties  Birth  and  Resturation  to  the  Throne  of 
his  Royall  Ancestors  whereby  Peace  and  unity  is  Established  in  all  his  Majesties 
Domains,  Every  Minister  within  his  Severall  Parish  is  cr.joyned  to  pray  and 
Preach  on  these  days  and  all  other  Persons  are  also  enjoyned  to  abstain  from 
their  Ordinary  Laboure  and  Calling  According  to  the  true  intent  of  both  the  said 
Acts. 

Every  Person  Licenced  to  keep  an  Ordinary  shall  always  be  provided  of  strong 
and  wholesome  Beer,  of  four  bushels  of  malt,  at  the  least  to  a  Iloggshead  which 
he  shall  not  Sell  at  above  two  pence  the  quart  under  the  penalty  of  twenty  Shil- 
lings, for  the  first  Offence,  forty  shillings  for  the  Second,  and  loss  of  his  Licence, 
It  is  permitted  to  any  to  Sell  Beer  out  of  Doores  at  a  peny  the  Ale  quart  or 
under. 

No  Licenced  Person  shall  suffer  any  to  Drink  excessively  or  at  unseasonable 
hours  after  Nine  of  the  Clock  at  night  in  or  about  any  their  houses  upon  penalty 
of  two  shillings  six  pence  for  every  Offence  if  Complaint  and  proofe  be  made 
thereof. 

All  Injuryes  done  to  the  Indians  of  what  nature  whatsoever  ;  shall  upon  their 
Complaint  and  proofe  thereof  in  any  Court  have  speedy  redress  gratis,  against 
any  Christian  in  as  full  and  Ample  manner,  (with  reasonable  allowance  for  dam-, 
age)  as  if  the  Case  had  been  betwixt  Christian  and  Christian. 

No  Indian  whatsoever  shall  at  any  time  be  Suffered  to  Powaw  or  perfornie  out- 
*vard  worship  to  the  Devil  in  any  Towne  within  this  Government. 

Lying  and  False  News. — Every  Person  of  age  of  discretion  which  shall  be  re- 


392  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

puted  of  fourteen  years  or  upwards,  who  shall  wittingly  and  -willingly  forge  or 
Publish  fals  newes  whereof  no  Certain  Auther  nor  Authentique  Letter  out  of  any 
part  of  Europe  can  be  produced,  whereby  the  minds  of  People  are  frequently  dis- 
quieted or  exasperated  in  relation  to  publique  Affairs,  or  particular  Persons  in- 
juried  in  their  good  names  and  Credits  by  such  Common  deceites  and  abuses 
Upon  due  proofe  made  by  Sufficient  witnesses  before  the  Governour  or  any 
Court  of  Sessions  the  Person  so  Offending  in  ordinary  Cases  shall  for  the  first  of- 
fence be  fined  ten  shillings,  for  the  second  offence  twenty  shillings  and  for  the 
third  offence  forty  Shillings  and  if  the  party  be  unable  to  pay  the  same  he  shall 
be  Sett  in  the  Stocks  so  longe,  or  publiquely  whipt  with  so  many  stripes  as  the 
Governor  or  any  Court  of  Sessions  shall  think  fitt  not  exceeding  forty  stripes : 
or  four  houres  Sitting  in  the  Stocks,  and  for  the  fourth  offence  he  shall  be  bound 
to  his  good  behaviour,  paying  Cost  or  Service  to  the  Informer  and  witnesses, 
such  as  shall  be  judged  reasonable  satisfaction,  But  in  Cases  of  high  nature  and 
publique  Concernes,  the  fine  or  punishment  shall  be  increast  according  to  the  dis- 
.  cretion  of  the  Governor  and  Council  onely. 

If  any  Masters  or  Dames  shall  Tyrannically  and  Cruelly  abuse  their  Servants, 
upon  Complaint  made  by  the  Servant  to  the  Constable  and  Overseers,  they  shall 
take  Speedy  redress  therein,  by  Admonishing  the  Master  or  Dame  not  to  provoke 
their  Servants,  And  upon  the  Servants  Second  Complaint,  of  the  like  usage  It 
shall  be  Lawful  for  the  Constable  and  Overseers  to  protect  and  Sustaine  such  Ser- 
vants in  their  Houses  till  due  Order  be  taken  for  their  Reliefe  in  the  ensuing 
Sessions  Provided  that  due  Notice  thereof  be  Speedily  given  to  Such  Masters  or 
Dames,  and  the  Cause  why  such  Servants  are  Protected  and  Sustained,  and  in 
Case  any  Master  or  Dame  by  such  Tyranny  and  Cruelty,  and  not  casually,  shall 
smite  out  the  Eye  or  Tooth  of  any  such  man  or  maid  Servant,  or  shall  otherwise 
Maim  or  disfigure  them  such  Servants  after  due  proof  made  shall  be  sett  free  from 
their  Service,  And  have  a  further  allowance  and  recompence  as  the  Court  of  Ses- 
sions shall  judge  meet. 

But  in  Case  any  Servant  or  Servants  shall  causelessly  Complain  against  their 
Master  or  Dame  If  they  cannot  make  proofe  of  a  just  occation  for  such  Com- 
plaints such  Servants  shall  by  the  Justices  of  the  Court  of  Sessions  be  enjoyned 
to  serve  three  Months  time  extraordinary  (Gratis)  for  every  such  vndue  Com- 
plaint. 

All  Servants  who  have  served  Diligently ;  and  faithfully  to  the  benifit  of  their 
Masters  or  Dames  five  or  Seaven  yeares,  shall  not  be  Sent  empty  away,  and  if 
any  have  proved  unfaithful  or  negligent  in  their  Service,  notwithstanding  the 
good  usage  of  their  Masters,  They  shall  not  be  dismist,  till  they  have  made  satis- 
faction according  to  the  Judgment  of  the  Constable  and  Overseers  of  the  parish 
where  they  dwell. 

No  man  Elected  into  any  Military  Office,  shall  refuse  to  accept  thereof,  or  dis- 
charge his  trust  therein  under  the  penalty  of  five  pounds  whereof  one  half  to  be 
paid  to  the  Governour  and  the  other  halfe  to  him  that  is  chosen  in  his  place,  and 
accepts  thereof. 

No  man  shall  be  Compeld  to  bear  Armes  or  wage  war  by  sea  or  Land,  without 
the  bounds  and  limits  of  this  Government,  But  from  Defensive  warrs  noe  man 
shall  be  exempted. 

At  a  sessions  held  at  the  City  of  New  York,  Oct.  6,  1694,  in  the  6th  year  of 
William  and  Mary,  present  the  Mayor,  Recorder,  Aldermen,  and  assistants  of  the 
Common  Council. 


NEW    YORK.  393 

For  the  better  preservation  of  the  Lords  day,  no  servile  work  to  be  done,  or 
any  goods  bought  or  sold  on  the  Lords  day,  under  the  penalty  of  ten  shillings  for 
the  first  offence,  and  double  for  every  subsequent  offence. 

The  Doors  of  Publick  Houses,  to  be  kept  shut,  no  company  to  be  entertained 
in  them,  or  any  sort  of  Liquor  sold  in  time  of  Divine  service  ;  Strangers,  Travel- 
lers, or  such  as  lodge  in  such  Houses  excepted ;  also  no  person  to  drink  exces- 
sively, or  be  drunk,  the  penalty  10s.  for  every  offence. 

No  Negro  or  Indian  servants  to  meet  together,  above  the  number  of  four,  on 
the  Lords  Day,  or  any  other  day,  within  the  City  liberties ;  nor  any  slave  to  go 
around  with  Gun,  Sword,  Club,  or  any  weapon,  under  penalty  of  ten  lashes  at 
the  publick  whipping  post,  or  to  be  redeemed  by  his  master  or  owner,  at  six  shil- 
lings per  head. 

One  of  the  Constables  in  the  five  wards  on  the  south  side  the  fresh  Water,  by 
turns  to  walk  the  streets  of  the  city,  in  time  of  Divine  Service,  to  see  these  laws 
observed,  and  to  have  power  to  enter  into  all  publick  Houses  to  put  the  same  in 
execution. 

The  Constable  to  make  enquiry  after  all  strangers,  and  give  in  their  names  to 
the  Mayor,  or  in  his  absence  to  the  eldest  Alderman,  no  keeper  of  publick  house 
&c,  to  entertain  or  lodge  any  suspected  person,  or  men  or  women  of  evil  fame, 
both  these  heads  under  penalty  of  10*.  for  each  offence. 

No  person  to  keep  shop  or  sell  any  goods  by  retail  or  exercise  any  handy-craft 
trade,  but  such  as  are  Freemen  of  the  City,  under  penalty  of  5s.  every  offence. 

All  Jesuits,  Seminary  Priests,  Missionaries,  or  other  Ecclesiastical  person, 
made  or  ordained  by  any  power  or  Jurisdiction  derived  or  pretended  from  the 
Pope,  or  see  of  Rome,  residing  or  being  within  the  Province,  to  depart  the  same, 
on  or  before  the  first  of  Nov.  1700. 

If  any  such  continue,  remain,  or  come  into  the  Province,  after  the  said  first  of 
November,  he  shall  be  deemed  an  Incendiary,  a  disturber  of  the  publick  peace, 
an  Enemy  to  the  true  Christian  Religion,  and  shall  suffer  perpetual  imprison- 
ment. 

If  any  such  person,  being  actually  committed,  shall  break  Prison  and  escape, 
he  shall  be  guilty  of  Felony,  and  if  retaken  shall  die  as  a  Felon. 

Persons  receiving,  harbouring,  succouring,  or  concealing  any  such  person, 
and  knowing  him  to  be  such,  shall  forfeit  the  sum  of  200  pounds,  half  to  the  King, 
foi  and  towards  the  support  of  the  Government,  and  the  other  half  to  the  prose- 
cutor, shall  be  set  in  the  Pillory  three  days,  and  find  sureties  for  their  behaviour, 
at  the  discretion  of  the  court. 

Any  Justice  of  peace  may  cause  any  person  suspected  to  be  of  the  Romish 
Clergy  to  be  apprehended,  and  if  he  find  cause,  may  commit  him  or  them,  in 
order  to  a  trial. 

Any  person,  without  warrant,  may  seize,  apprehend,  and  bring  before  a  Magis- 
trate, any  person  suspected  of  the  crimes  above,  and  the  Governor,  with  the 
Council,  may  suitably  reward  such  person  as  they  think  fit. 

OLD    TIME    CUSTOMS    OF    NEW  YORK    CITY. 

The  Dutch  kept  five  great  festivals  of  peculiar  notoriety,  in  the  year  :  Kerstydt 
(Christmas)  ;  Nieuwjar  (New  Year)  ;  a  great  day  of  cake,  Paas  (the  Passover)  ; 
Pinxter  (i.  e.  Whitsuntide)  ;  and  San  Claas  (i.  e.  Saint  Nicholas,  or  Christ-Kinkle 
day).  The  negroes  on  Long  Island  on  some  of  those  days  came  in  great  crowds 
to  Brooklyn,  and  heldJiheir  field  frolics. 


304  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

It  was  the  general  practice  of  families  in  middle  life  to  spin,  and  make  much 
of  their  domestic  wear  at  home.  Short  gowns  and  petticoats  were  the  general 
in-door  dresses. 

Young  women  who  dressed  gay  to  go  abroad  to  visit,  or  to  church,  never  failed 
to  take  off  that  dress  and  put  on  their  homemade,  as  soon  as  they  got  home ; 
even  on  Sunday  evenings,  when  they  expected  company,  or  even  their  beaux,  it 
was  their  best  recommendation. to  seem  thus  frugal  and  ready  for  any  domestic 
avocation.  The  boys  and  young  men  of  a  family  always  changed  their  dress  for 
a  common  dress  in  the  same  way.  There  was  no  custom  of  offering  drink  to 
their  guests  ;  when  punch  was  offered,  it  was  in  great  bowls.. 

Dutch  dances  were  very  common ;  the  supper  on  such  occasions  was  hot 
chocolate  and  bread. 

The  negroes  used  to  dance  in  the  markets,  using  tom-toms,  horns,  etc.,  for 
music. 

None  of  the  stores  or  tradesmen's  shops  then  aimed  at  any  rivalry  as  now. 
There  were  no  glaring  allurements  at  windows,  no  over-reaching  signs,  no  big 
bulk  windows  ;  they  were  content  to  sell  things  at  honest  profits,  and  to  trus;t  to 
an  earned  reputation  for  their  share  of  business. 

Many  aged  persons  have  spoken  to  me  of  the  former  delightful  practice  of 
families  sitting  out  on  their  "stoops"  in  the  shades  of  the  evening,  and  their 
saluting  the  passing  friends,  or  talking  across  the  narrow  streets  with  neighbors. 
It  was  one  of  the  grand  links  of  union  in  the  Knickerbocker  social  compact.  It 
endeared,  and  made  social  neighbors :  made  intercourse  on  easy  terms ;  it  was 
only  to  say,  Come,  sit  down.  IU  helped  the  young  to  easy  introductions,  and 
made  courtships  of  readier  attainment. 

I  give  some  facts  to  illustrate  the  above  remarks,  deduced  from  the  family  B. 
with  which  I  am  personally  acquainted.  It  shows  primitive  Dutch  manners. 
His  grandfather  died  at  the  age  of  sixty-three,  in  1782,  holding  the  office  of  alder- 
man eleven  years,  and  once  chosen  mayor  and  declined.  Such  a  man,  in  easy 
circumstances  in  life,  following  the  true  Dutch  ton,  had  all  his  family  to  break- 
fast, all  the  year  round,  at  daylight.  Before  the  breakfast  he  universally  smoked 
his  pipe.  His  family  always  dined  at  twelve  exactly,  at  that  time  the  kettle  was 
invariably  set  on  the  fire  for  tea,  of  Bohea,  which  was  always  as  punctually  fur- 
nished at  three  o'clock.  Then  the  old  people  went  abroad  on  purpose  to  visit 
relatives,  changing  the  families  each  night  in  succession,  over  and  over  again  all 
the  year  round.  The  regale  at  every  such  house  was  expected  as  matter  of 
course  to  be  chocolate  supper,  and  soft  waffles. 

Afterwards,  when  green  tea  came  in  as  a  new  luxury,  loaf  sugar  also  came 
with  it ;  this  was  broken  in  large  lumps  and  laid  severally  by  each  cup,  and  was 
nibbled  or  bitten  as  needed  ! 

The  family  before  referred  to  actually  continued  the  practice  till  as  late  as  sev- 
enteen years  ago,  with  a  steady  determination  in  the  patriarch  to  resist  the  modern 
innovation  of  dissolved  sugar  while  he  lived. 

While  they  occupied  the  stoops  in  the  evening,  you  could  see  every  here  and 
there  an  old  Knickerbocker  with  his  long  pipe,  fuming  away  his  cares,  and  ready 
1  on  any  occasion  to  offer  another  for  the  use  of  any  passing  friend  who  would  sit 
down  and  join  him.  The  ideal  picture  has  every  lineament  of  contented  comfort 
ana  cheerful  repose.  Something  much  more  composed  and  happy  than  the 
bustling  anxiety  of  "  over  business"  in  the  moderns. 

The  cleanliness  of  Dutch  housewifery  was  always  extreme  ;  everything  had  to 


NEW   YORK.  395 

submit  to  scrubbing  and  scouring ;  dirt  in  no  form  could  be  endured  by  them : 
and  dear  as  water  was  in  the  city,  where  it  was  generally  sold,  still  it  was  in  per- 
petual requisition.  It  was  their  honest  pride  to  see  a  well-furnished  dresser, 
showing  copper  and  pewter  in  shining  splendor,  as  if  for  ornament,  rather  than 
for  use. 

It  was  common  in  families  then  to  cleanse  their  own  chimneys  without  the  aid 
of  hired  sweeps  ;  and  all  tradesmen,  etc.,  were  accustomed  to  saw  their  own  fuel. 
No  man  in  middle  circumstances  of  life  ever  scrupled  to  carry  home  his  one 
cwt.  of  meal  from  the  market ;  it  would  have  been  Ms  shame  to  have  avoided  it. 

Men  wore  three-square  or  cocked  hats,  and  wigs ;  coats  with  large  cuffs,  big 
skirts  lined  and  stiffened  with  buckram.  None  ever  saw  a  crown  higher  than 
the  head.  The  coat  of  a  beau  had  three  or  four  large  plaits  in  the  skirts,  wadding 
almost  like  a  coverlet  to  keep  them  smooth  ;  cuflfe  very  large,  up  to  the  elbows, 
open  below  and  inclined  down,  with  lead  therein  ;  the  capes  were  thin  and  low, 
so  as  readily  to  expose  the  close  plaited  neck-stock  of  fine  linen  cambric,  and  the 
large  silver  stock-buckle  on  the  back  of  the  neck  ;  shirts  with  hand  ruffles,  sleeves 
finely  plaited,  breeches  close  fitted,  with  silver,  stone,  or  paste  gem  buckles  ;  shoes 
or  pumps  with  silver  buckles  of  various  sizes  and  patterns  ;  thread,  worsted,  and 
silk  stockings ;  the  poorer  class  wore  sheep  and  buckskin  breeches  close  set  to 
the  limbs.  Gold  and  silver  sleeve  buttons,  set  with  stones  or  paste  of  various 
colors  and  kinds,  adorned  the  wrists  of  the  shirts  of  all  classes.  The  very  boys 
often  wore  wigs  ;  and  their  dresses  in  general  were  similar  to  those  of  the  men. 

The  women  wore  caps  (a  bare  head  was  never  seen),  stiff  stays,  hoops  from  six 
inches  to  two  feet  on  each  side  ;  high  heeled  shoes  of  black  stuff,  with  white  silk 
or  thread  stockings ;  and  in  the  miry  times  of  the  winter  they  wore  clogs,  gala 
shoes,  or  pattens. 

As  soon  as  wigs  were  abandoned,  and  the  natural  hair  was  cherished,  it  became 
the  mode  to  dress  it  by  plaiting  it,  by  queuing  and  clubbing,  or  by  wearing  it  ill 
a  black  silk  sack  or  bag,  adorned  with  a  large  black  rose. 

In  time,  the  powder  with  which  wigs  and  the  natural  hair  had  been  severally 
adorned,  was  run  into  disrepute  (about  38  or  30  years  ago)  by  the  then  strange 
innovation  of  "Brutus  heads;"  not  only  then  discarding  the  long-cherished 
powder  and  perfume,  and  tortured  frizzle-work,  but  also  literally  becoming 
"round  heads"  by  cropping  off  all  the  pendent  graces  of  ties,  bobs,  clubs,  queus, 
etc.  The  hardy  beaux  who  first  encountered  public  opinion  by  appearing  abroad 
unpowdered  and  cropt,  had  many  starers.  The  old  men,  for  a  time,  obstinately 
persisted  in  adherence  to  the  old  regime  ;  but  death  thinned  their  ranks,  and  use 
and  prevalence  of  numbers  at  length  gave  countenance  to  modern  usage. 

From  various  reminiscents,  we  glean  that  laced  ruffles,  depending  over  the 
hand,  was  a  mark  of  indispensable  gentility.  The  coat  and  breeches  were  gene- 
rally desirable  of  the  same  material — of  "broadcloth"  for  winter,  and  of  silk 
camlet  for  summer.  No  kind  of  cotton  fabrics  were  then  in  use,  or  known. 
Hose  were,  therefore,  of  thread  or  silk  in  summer,  and  fine  worsted  in  winter ; 
.shoes  were  square-toed,  and  were  often  "double  channelled."  To  these  suc- 
ceeded sharp-toes,  as  piked  as  possible.  When  wigs  were  universally  worn,  grey 
wigs  were  powdered  ;  and  for  that  purpose  sent  in  a  wooden  box  frequently  to 
the  barber  to  be  dressed  on  his  block-head.  But  "brown  wigs,"  so-called,  were 
exempted  from  the  white  disguise.  Coats  of  red  cloth,  even  by  boys,  were  con- 
siderably worn  ;  and  plush  breeches,  and  plush  vests  of  various  colors,  shining 
and  smooth,  were  in  common  use.  Everlasting,  made  of  worsted,  was  a  fabric 


396  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  great  use  for  breeches,  and  sometimes  for  vests.  The  vest  had  great  depend- 
ing pocket  flaps,  and  the  breeches  were  short  above  the  stride,  because  the  art, 
since  devised,  of  suspending  them  by  suspenders,  was  then  unknown.  It  was 
then  the  test  and  even  the  pride  of  a  well  formed  man,  that  he  could  by  his  natu- 
ral form  readily  keep  his  breeches  above  his  hips,  and  his  stockings,  without  gar- 
tering, above  the  calf  of  his  leg.  With  the  queues  belonged  frizzled  side-locks 
and  lout  pies,  formed  of  the  natural  hair,  or,  in  defect  of  a  long  tie,  a  splice  was 
added  to  it.  Such  was  the  general  passion  for  the  longest  possible  whip  of  hair, 
that  sailors  and  boatmen,  to  make  it  grow  most,  used  to  tie  theirs  in  eel  skins. 
Nothing  like  surtouts  were  known ;  but  they  had  coating  or  cloth  great-coats,  or 
blue  cloth  and  brown  camlet  cloaks,  with  green  baize  lining  to  the  latter.  In  the 
time  of  the  American  war,  many  of  the  American  officers  introduced  the  use  of 
Dutch  blankets  for  great-coats.  The  sailors  used  to  wear  hats  of  glazed  leather, 
or  woollen  thrums,  called  chapeaus ;  and  their  "small  clothes,"  as  we  now  call 
them,  were  immensely  wide  "petticoat-breeches."  The  workingmen  in  the 
country  wore  the  same  form,  having  no  falling-flaps,  but  slits  in  front ;  and  they 
were  so  full  in  girth,  that  they  ordinarily  changed  the  rear  to  the  front,  when  the 
seat  became  prematurely  worn  out.  At  the  same  time  numerous  workiugmen 
and  boys,  and  all  tradesmen,  wore  leather  breeches  and  leather  aprons. 

Some  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  female  dress  were  these,  to  wit :  Ancient  ladies 
are  still  alive,  who  often  had  their  hair  tortured  for  hours  at  a  sitting,  in  getting 
up  for  a  dress  occasion,  the  proper  crisped  curls  of  a  hair  curler.  This  formidable 
outfit  of  head-work  was  next  succeeded  by  "rollers,"  over  which  the  hair  was 
combed  above  the  forehead.  These  were  again  superseded  by  "cushions"  and 
artificial  curled  work,  which  could  be  sent  to  the  barber's  block,  like  a  wig,  "  to 
be  dressed,"  leaving  the  lady  at  home  to  pursue  other  objects. 

When  the  ladies  first  began  to  lay  off  their  cumbrous  hoops,  they  supplied  their 
place  with  successive  substitutes,  such  as  these,  to  wit :  first  came  "  bishops,"  a 
thing  stuffed  or  padded  with  horsehair ;  then  succeeded  a  smaller  affair,  under 
the  name  of  Cue  de  Paris,  also  padded  with  horsehair. 

Among  other  articles  of  female  wear,  we  may  name  the  following,  to  wit : 
Once  they  wore  a  "skimmer-hat,"  made  of  a  fabric  which  shone  like  silver  tin- 
sel ;  it  was  of  a  very  small  flat  crown  and  big  brim,  not  unlike  the  present  Leg- 
horn flats.  Another  hat,  not  unlike  it  in  shape,  was  made  of  woven  horsehair, 
wove  in  flowers,  and  called  "horsehair  bonnets,"  an  article  which  might  be 
again  usefully  introduced  for  children's  wear,  as  an  enduring  hat  for  long  service. 
I  have  seen  what  was  called  a  bath-bonnet,  made  of  black  satin,  and  so  con- 
structed to  lay  in  folds  that  .it  could  be  set  upon,  like  a  chapeau  bras ;  a  good 
article  now  for  travelling  ladies.  The  "muskmelon-bonnet,"  used  before  the 
Revolution,  had  numerous  whalebone  stiffeners  in  the  crown,  set  an  inch  apart, 
in  parallel  lines,  and  presenting  ridges  to  the  eye  between  the  bones.  The  next 
bonnet  was  the  "whalebone-bonnet/'  having  only  the  bones  in  the  front  as 
stiffeners.  A  "calash-bonnet"  was  always  formed  of  green  silk;  it  was  worn 
abroad,  covering  the  head,  but  when  in  rooms  it  could  fall  back  in  folds  like  the. 
springs  of  a  calash  or  gig-top ;  to  keep  it  over  the  head,  it  was  drawn  up  by  a 
cord  always  held  in  the  hand  of  the  wearer.  The  "wagon-bonnet,"  always  of 
black  silk,  was  an  article  exclusively  in  use  among  the  Friends,  and  was  deemed 
to  look,  on  the  head,  not  unlike  the  top  of  the  "Jersey  wagons,"  and  having  a 
pendent  piece  of  like  silk  hanging  from  the  bonnet  and  covering  the  shoulders. 
The  only  straw  wear  was  that  called  the  "straw  Cheshire  bonnet,"  worn  gene- 
rally by  old  people. 


NEW    YORK.  397 

The  ladies  once  wore  "  hollow -breasted  stays,"  which  were  exploded  as  inju- 
rious to  the  health.  Then  came  the  use  of  straight  stays.  Even  little  girls  wore 
such  stays.  At  one  time  the  gowns  worn  had  no  fronts  ;  the  design  was  to  dis- 
play a  finely  quilted  Marseilles,  silk,  or  satin  petticoat,  and  a  worked  stomacher 
on  the  waist.  In  other  dresses,  a  white  apron  was  the  mode  ;  all  wore  large 
pockets  under  their  gowns.  Among  the  caps  was  the  "queen's  nightcap,"  the 
same  always  worn  by  Lady  Washington.  The  "cushion  head-dress"  was  of 
gauze,  stiffened  out  in  cylindrical  form,  with  white  spiral  wire.  The  border  of 
the  cap  was  called  the  balcony. 

Formerly  there  were  no  sideboards,  and  when  they  were  first  introduced  after 
the  Revolution,  they  were  much  smaller  and  less  expensive  than  now.  Formerly 
they  had  couches  of  worsted  damask,  and  only  in  very  affluent  families,  in  lieu 
of  what  we  call  sofas,  or  lounges.  Plain  people  used  settees  and  settles, — the 
latter  had  a  bed  concealed  in  the  seat,  and  by  folding  the  top  of  it  outwards  to 
the  front,  it  exposed  the  bed,  and  widened  the  place  for  the  bed  to  be  spread 
upon  it. 

In  those  days,  there  were  no  Windsor  chairs  :  and  fancy  chairs  are  still  more 
modern.  Their  chairs  of  the  genteelest  kind  were  of  mahogany  or  red  walnut 
(once  a  great  substitute  for  mahogany  in  all  kinds  of  furniture,  tables,  etcj,  or 
else  they  were  of  rush  bottom,  and  made  of  maple  posts  and  slats,  with  high 
backs  and  perpendicular.  Instead  of  japanned  waiters  as  now;  they  had  mahog- 
any tea  boards,  and  round  tea  tables,  which,  being  turned  on  an  axle  underneath 
the  centre,  stood  upright,  like  an  expanded  fan  or  palm-leaf,  in  the  corner.  An- 
other corner  was  occupied  by  a  beaufet,  which  was  a  corner  closet  with  a  glass 
door,  in  which  all  the  china  of  the  family  was  intended  to  be  displayed,  for  orna- 
ment as  well  as  use.  A  conspicuous  article  in  the  collection  was  always  a  great 
cliina  punchbowl,  which  furnished  a  frequent  and  grateful  beverage, — for  wine 
drinking  was  then  much  less  in  vogue.  China  teacups  and  saucers  were  then 
about  half  their  present  size, ;  and  cliina  teapots  and  coffeepots,  with  silver 
nozzles,  was  a  mark  of  superior  finery.  The  sham  of  plated  ware  was  not  then 
known,  and  all  who  showed  a  silver  surface  had  the  massive  metal  too.  This 
occurred  in  the  wealthy  families,  in  little  coffee  and  teapots ;  and  a  silver  tank- 
ard, for  good  sugared  toddy,  was  above  vulgar  entertainment.  Where  we  now 
use  earthenware,  they  then  used  delfware,  imported  from  England  ;  and  instead 
of  queensware  (then  unknown),  pewter  platters  and  porringers,  made  to  shine 
along  a  "dresser,"  were  universal.  Some,  and  especially  the  country  people, 
ate  their  meals  from  wooden  trenchers.  Gilded  looking-glasses  and  picture 
frames  of  golden  glare  were  unknown  ;  and  both,  much  smaller  than  now,  were 
used.  Small  pictures  painted  on  glass,  with  black  mouldings  for  frames,  with  a 
scanty  touch  of  gold  leaf  in  the  corners,  was  the  adornment  of  a  parlor.  The 
looking-glasses  in  two  plates,  if  large,  had  either  glass  frames  figured  with 
flowers  engraved  thereon,  or  were  of  scalloped  mahogany — painted  white  or 
black,  with  here  and  there  some  touches  of  gold.  Every  householder  in  that 
day  deemed  it  essential  to  his  convenience  and  comfort  to  have  an  ample  chest 
of  drawers,  in  his  parlor  or  sitting-room,  in  which  the  linen  and  clothes  of  the 
family  were  always  of  ready  access.  It  was  no  sin  to  rummage  them  before 
company.  These  drawers  were  sometimes  nearly  as  high  as  the  ceiling.  At 
other  times  they  had  a  writing  desk  about  the  centre,  with  a  falling  lid  to  write 
upon  when  let  down.  A  great  high  clock  case,  reaching  to  the  ceiling,  occupied 
another  corner ;  and  a  fourth  corner  was  appropriated  to  the  chimney  placo. 


398  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

They  then  had  no  carpets  on  their  floors,  and  no  paper  on  their  walls.  The  silver 
sand  on  the  floor  was  drawn  into  a  variety  of  fanciful  figures  and  twirls  of  the 
sweeping-brush,  and  much  skill  and  even  pride  was  displayed  therein  in  the  de- 
vices and  arrangement.  They  had  then  no  argand  or  other  lamps  in  parlors,  but 
dipt  candles,  in  brass  or  copper  candlesticks,  was  usually  good  enough  for  com- 
mon use ;  and  those  who  occasionally  used  mould  candles,  made  them  at  home 
in  little  tin  frames,  casting  four  to  six  candles  in  each.  A  glass  lantern  with 
square  sides  furnished  the  entry  lights  in  the  houses  of  the  affluent.  Bedsteads 
then  were  made,  if  tine,  of  carved  mahogany,  of  slender  dimensions ;  but,  for 
common  purposes,  or  for  the  families  of  good  tradesmen,  they  were  of  poplar, 
and  always  painted  green.  It  was  a  matter  of  universal  concern  to  have  them 
low  enough  to  answer  the  purpose  of  repose  for  sick  or  dying  persons — a  pro- 
vision so  necessary  for  such  possible  events,  now  so  little  regarded  by  the  modern 
practice  of  ascending  to  a  bed  by  steps,  like  clambering  up  to  a  haymow. 

A  lady,  giving  me  the  reminiscences  of  her  early  life,  thus  speaks  of  things  as 
they  were  before  the  war  of  Independence  :  Marble  mantels  and  folding  doors 
were  not  then  known  ;  and  well  enough  we  enjoyed  ourselves  without  sofas,  car- 
pets, or  girandoles.  A  white  floor  sprinkled  with  clean  white  sand,  large  tables 
and  heavy  high-back  chairs  of  walnut  or  mahogany,  decorated  a  parlor  genteelly 
enough  for  anybody.  Sometimes  a  carpet,  not,  however,  covering  the  whole 
floor,  was  seen  upon  the  dining  room.  This  was  a  show  parlor  up  stairs,  not 
used  but  upon  gala  occasions,  and  then  not  to  dine  in.  Pewter  plates  and  dishes 
were  in  general  use.  China  on  dinner  tables  was  a  great  rarity.  Plate,  more  or 
less,  was  seen  in  most  families  of  easy  circumstances,  not  indeed  in  all  the  vari- 
ous shapes  that  have  since  been  invented,  but  in  massive  silver  waiters,  bowls, 
tankards,  cans,  etc.  Glass  tumblers  were  scarcely  seen.  Punch,  the  most  com- 
mon beverage,  was  drunk  by  the  company  from  one  large  bowl  of  silver  or  china; 
and  beer  from  a  tankard  of  silver. 

The  use  of  stoves  was  not  known  in  primitive  times,  neither  in  families  nor 
churches.  Their  fireplaces  were  as  large  again  as  the  present,  with  much  plainer 
mantel  pieces.  In  lieu  of  marble  plates  around  the  sides  and  top  of  the  fireplaces, 
it  was  adorned  with  china  Dutch  tile,  pictured  with  sundry  Scripture  pieces.  Dr. 
Franklin  first  invented  the  "open  stove,"  called  also  the  "Franklin  stove," 
after  which,  as  fuel  became  scarce,  the  better  economy  of  the  "ten  plate  stove" 
was  adopted. 

The  most  splendid  looking  carriage  ever  exhibited  among  us  was  that  used,  as 
befitting  the  character  of  that  chief  of  men,  General  Washington,  while  acting  as 
President  of  the  United  States.  It  was  very  large,  so  as  to  make  four  horses,  at 
least,  an  almost  necessary  appendage.  It  was  occasionally  drawn  by  six  horses, 
Virginia  bays.  It  was  cream  colored,  globular  in  its  shape,  ornamented  with 
cupids,  supporting  festoons,  and  wreaths  of  flowers,  emblematically  arranged 
along  the  panel  work  ; — the  whole  neatly  covered  with  best  watch  glass.  It  was 
of  English  construction. 

Some  twenty  or  thirty  years  before  the  period  of  the  Revolution,  the  steeds  most 
prized  for  the  saddle  were  pacers,  since  so  odious  deemed.  To  this  end  the  breed 
was  propagated  with  much  care.  The  Narraganset  pacers  of  Rhode  Island  were 
in  such  repute  that  they  were  sent  for,  at  much  trouble  and  expense,  by  some 
few  who  were  choice  in  their  selections.  It  may  amuse  the  present  generation 
to  peruse  the  history  of  one  such  horse,  spoken  of  in  the  letter  of  Rip  Van  Dam 
of  New  York,  in  the  .year  1711,  which  I  have  seen.  It  states  the  fact  of  the 


NEW    YORE.  390 

trouble  lie  had  taken  to  procure  him  such  a  horse.  lie  was  shipped  from  Rhode 
Island  in  a  sloop,  from  which  he  jumped  overboard,  when  under  sail,  and  swam 
ashore  to  his  former  home.  He  arrived  at  New  York  in  14  days1  passage,  much 
reduced  in  flesh  and  spirit.  He  cost  £32,  and  his  freight  50  shillings.  This 
writer,  Rip  Van  Dam,  was  a  great  personage,  he  having  been  President  of  the 
Council  in  1731  ;  and  on  the  death  of  Governor  Montgomery,  that  year,  he  was 
Governor,  ex-officio,  of  New  York.  His  mural  monument  is  now,  to  b3  seen  in 
St.  Paul's  Church.  ;" 

THE    NEGRO    PLOT    IN    NEW   YORK. 

A  robbery,  which  had  been  committed  at  trie  house  of  Robert  Hogg,  a  merchant 
in  New  York,  on  the  28th  of  February,  1740-1,  seemed  to  have  led  to  the  dis- 
covery of  a  plot,  which  was  afterwards  called  the  negro  plot.  One  Mary  Burton, 
an  indentured  servant  to  John  Hughson  (a  man  of  infamous  character,  and  to 
whose  house  slaves  were  in  the  practice  of  resoiting  to  drink  antl  gamble,  and  of 
secreting  the  goods  they  had  stolen),  was  the  instrument,  in  the  hands  of  the 
magistrates,  for  the  detection  and  punishment  of  the  offenders.  On  the  18th  of 
March,  after  the  robbery,  a  fire  broke  out  in  the  roof  of  His  Majesty's  house  at 
Fort  George,  near  the  chapel,  consuming  the  house,  the  chapel,  and  some  other 
buildings  adjacent.  Most  of  the  public  records  in  the  secretary's  office,  over  the 
fort  gate,  were  fortunately  rescued  from  the  flames.  A  week  after,  another  fire 
broke  out  at  the  house  belonging  to  a  Captain  Warren,  near  the  long  bridge,  at 
Lie  southwest  end  of  the  city.  Both  these  fires  were,  at  first,  supposed  to  be  ac- 
cidental. But  about  a  week  after  the  last  fire,  another  broke  out  at  the  store 
house  of  a  Mr.  Van  Zandt,  towards  the  east  end  of  the  town.  Three  days  after, 
a  fourth  alarm  was  given,  and  it  was  found  that  some  hay  was  on  fire  in  a  cow- 
stable  near  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Quick,  or  a  Mr.  Vergereau.  The  fire  was  soon  sup- 
pressed. The  people,  in  returning  from  that  fire,  were  alarmed  by  a  fifth  cry,  at 
the  house  of  one  Ben  Thompson,  next  door  west  of  a  Captain  Sarly's  house.  It 
appeared  that  fire  had  been  placed  between  two  beds,  in  the  loft  of  a  kitchen, 
where  a  negro  usually  slept.  The  next  morning  coals  were  discovered  under  a 
haystack,  near  the  coach  house  and  stables  of  Joseph  Murray,  Esq.,  in  Broadway. 
All  these  circumstances  having  occurred  in  quick  succession,  the  people  were  in- 
duced to  believe  that  some  designing  persons  intended  to  destroy  the  city  by  fire. 
What  strengthened  this  belief  was,  a  seventh  alarm  of  fire  the  next  day,  at  the 
house  of  a  Sergeant  Burns,  opposite  the  fort  garden,  an  eighth  alarm,  occasioned 
by  a  fire  breaking  out  the  same  day,  in  the  roof  of  a  Mr.  Hilton's  house,  near  the 
fly  market ;  and  again,  the  same  afternoon,  and  within  a  few  hours  after,  a  ninth 
fire  occurring  at  Colonel  Philipse's  store  house.  This  strange  coincidence  of 
events  leaves  indeed  little  room  for  doubt  that  some  one  or  more  of  the  fires  oc- 
curred through  design.  It  was  soon  rumored  that  the  negroes  were  the  perpe- 
trators. One  Quacko,  a  negro  belonging  to  a  Mr.  Walter,  was  said  to  have  made 
use  of  some  mysterious  language  and  threats,  indicating  his  knowledge  of  a  plot. 
A  proclamation  was  issued,  offering  rewards  for  the  discovery  of  the  offenders. 
Quacko  and  several  other  negroes  were  apprehended  and  closely  interrogated, 
but  without  effect.  The  Supreme  Court,  at  its  April  term,  strictly  enjoined  the 
grand  jury  to  make  diligent  enquiries  as  to  the  late  robberies  and  fires  within  the 

*  Watson's  Historic  Tales  of  Olden  Time. 


400  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

city.  Mary  Burton,  who  had  been  apprehended  as  a  witness,  relative  to  the  rob- 
bery at  Mr.  Hogg's,  gave  the  grand  jury  reason  to  believe  that  she  was  also  privy 
to  the  design  to  set  fire  to  the  city.  After  some  difficulty,  she  made  a  disclosure, 
which,  in  all  probability,  was  greatly  exaggerated,  though  some  of  its  parts 
might  have  been  true.  She  stated  that  meetings  of  negroes  were  held  at  her 
master's  (Ilughson).  That  their  plan  was  to  burn  the  fort  and  city.  That  one 
Caesar  (a  black)  was  to  be  Governor,  and  Hughson,  her  master,  king!  That 
they  were  to  destroy  the  whites.  That  she  had  known  seven  or  eight  guns,  and 
some  swords,  in  her  master's  house.  That  the  meetings  at  her  master's  house 
consisted  of  twenty  or  thirty  negroes  at  a  time.  Upon  this  evidence,  warrants 
were  issued,  and  many  negroes  committed  to  prison. ,  One  Arthur  Price,  a  ser- 
vant, charged  with  stealing  goods  belonging  to  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  like- 
wise became  informer.  Being  in  prison  himself,  and  having  access  to  the  negroes 
there  committed,  he  received,  or  pretended  to  have  received,  much  information 
from  them.  He  was  afterwards  employed  by  the  magistrates,  to  hold  private 
conferences  with  the  negroes  in  prison,  and  to  use  persuasion  and  other  means 
to  gain  confessions  from  them.  In  this  business  he  was  peculiarly  expert,  and 
received  the  most  unqualified  approbation  of  the  magistrates.  Yet  many  of  his 
stories  are  of  such  a  chivalrous  and  romantic  description  as  to  excite  suspicion 
of  their  truth.  But  everything  he  related  was  implicitly  believed.  The  more 
extravagant  the  tale,  the  more  readily  was  it  received  and  credited.  A  white  wo- 
man, who  was  a  common  prostitute,  and  familiar  even  with  negroes,  of  the  name  of 
Margaret  or  Peggy  Salinburgh,  alias  Kerry,  alias  Sorubiero,  likewise  declared  she 
could  make  great  discoveries.  The  magistrates  eagerly  hastened  to  take  her  ex- 
amination, and  the  consequence  was,  that  fresh  warrants  were  issued  for  the  ap- 
prehension of  many  other  negroes,  not  before  implicated.  Informers  were  now 
rapidly  increasing.  Arthur  Price,  while  in  prison,  was  making  great  discoveries. 
Operating  on  the  fears  and  hopes  of  the  negroes,  many  declared  themselves  ac- 
complices. The  magistrates  were  unceasingly  engaged.  The  grand  jury  were 
daily  presenting  bills  of  indictment  against  the  parties  accused.  To  be  inculpated 
by  Mary  Burton,  Arthur  Price,  or  Peggy  Salinburgh,  was  sufficient  to  authorize 
the  indictment  and  conviction  of  any  person.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  on  proof 
of  such  suspicious  characters  so  many  lives  were  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  exe- 
cutioner. Not  that  we  dispute  the  fact  that  some  of  the  fires  were  designedly 
set,  but  that  we  mean  to  be  understood  as  doubting  the  extent  and  nature  of  the 
plot  ascribed  to  the  negroes.  It  is  evident  that  Mary  Burton  was  wholly  un- 
worthy of  credit.  Independent  of  the  absurdity  and  improbability  of  many  of 
her  stories,  she  had,  on  the  22d  April,  in  her  first  examination  and  disclosure 
under  oath,  declared,  "that  she  never  saw  any  white  person  in  company  when 
they  talked  of  burning  the  town,  but  her  master,  her  mistress,  and  Peggy  ; "  yet, 
on  the  25th  of  June  following,  she  deposed  that  one  John  Dry,  a  Catholic  priest 
(a  white  person},  was  often  at  her  master's,  and  "that  when  he  came  to  Hugh- 
son's,  he  (Ury)  always  went  up  stairs  in  the  company  of  Hughson,  his  wife  and 
daughter,  and  Peggy,  with  whom  the  negroes  used  to  be,  at  the  same  time,  con- 
sulting about  the  plot ;  "  and  that  "  the  negroes  talked  in  the  presence  of  the  said 
Ury  about  setting  fire  to  the  houses  and  killing  the  white  people."  She  after- 
wards, on  the  14th  July  following,  declared,  on  oath,  that  one  Corry,  a  dancing 
master  (also  a  white  person),  used  to  come  to  Hughson's  and  talk  with  the 
negroes  about  the  plot.  Yet,  on  evidence  of  this  kind,  Ury,  who  had  previously 
been  committed,  under  the  act  against  Jesuits  and  Popish  priests,  was  indicted, 


NEW    YORK.  401 

tried,  convicted,  and  executed.  At  the  place  of  execution,  he  solemnly  denied 
the  charge,  and  called  on  God  to  witness  its  falsity.  But  Ury  was  a  Catholic, 
and  the  public  prejudice  was  so  strong  that  it  required  very  little  more  to  ensure 
his  condemnation.  Had  not  Ury  been  obnoxious,  on  account  of  his  religion,  the 
accusation  against  him  would  perhaps  never  have  been  made,  or,  if  made,  would 
have  been  little  regarded.  Mary  Burton  received  the  hundred  pounds  which  had 
been  promised  as  a  reward  for  discovering  the  persons  concerned  in  setting  fire 
to  the  city.  We  shall  now  dismiss  this  article,  after  giving  the  number  who 
were  accused,  tried,  and  suffered  on  this  occasion,  with  some  remarks,  which 
grow  out  of  this  subject. 

One  hundred  and  fifty-four  negroes  were  committed  to  prison,  of  whom  14 
were  burnt  at  the  stake,  18  hanged,  71  transported,  and  the  rest  pardoned,  or 
discharged  for  want  of  proof.  Twenty  white  persons  were  committed,  of  whom 
2  only,  John  Ilughson  and  John  Ury,  were  executed.  At  this  time  the  city  of 
New  York  contained  a  population  of  about  12.000  souls,  of  whom  one-sixth  were 
slaves.  If  a  plot,  in  fact,  existed  for  the  destruction  of  the  city  and  the  massacre 
of  its  inhabitants  ;  and  if  that  plot  was  conducted  by  Ury,  it  certainly  betrayed 
greater  imbecility  of  intellect,  and  want  of  caution  and  arrangement,  together 
with  less  union  of  action,  than  could  have  been  expected  from  one  who  was  evi- 
dently, if  we  believe  his  own  account,  a  man  of  classical  education,  and  profound 
erudition.  It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  Corry,  the  dancing  master,  accused  by 
Mary  Burton,  was  discharged  for  want  of  proof.  It  seems  that  Mary's  testi- 
mony began,  at  length,  to  be  doubted.  Indeed,  it  well  might ;  for  had  the  prose- 
cutions continued  much  longer,  she  would,  more  than  probable,  have  accused  a 
great  portion  of  the  white  citizens  of  New  York,  as  being  concerned  in  this  plot. 
Daniel  Horsmanden,  Esq.,  published,  at  the  time,  a  history  of  this  conspiracy, 
and  labored  hard  to  prove  its  existence  and  extent.  But  it  is  evident  that  that 
hostility  to  Catholicism,  which  the  British  Government  so  industriously  incul- 
cated, tinctured  his  mind,  and  gave  it  a  bias  unfriendly  to  the  fair  development 
of  truth,  or  to  the  full  and  impartial  examination  of  facts  and  circumstances. 
The  negroes  were  without  defence.  All  the  counsel  in  the  city  were  arrayed 
against  them,  and  volunteered  their  services  on  behalf  of  the  crown,  on  the  trial 
of  those  unfortunate  slaves.  The  want  of  education,  and  utter  ignorance  of  those 
infatuated  wretches,  easily  made  them  the  victims  of  craft  and  imposition.  The 
hopes  of  life,  and  the  promise  of  pardon,  influenced  some  of  them  to  make  con- 
fessions. Yet  falsehood  was  so  ingeniously  and  artfully  blended  with  truth,  that 
it  was  not  an  easy  task  to  separate  the  one  from  the  other.  It  must,  however, 
be  admitted,  that  many  circumstances  aided  the  opinion  that  the  plot,  in  fact,  ex- 
isted, and  if  the  people  were  mistaken  in  this,  it  was  an  error  into  which  they 
might  naturally  fall  at  the  moment  of  confusion  and  distress,  and  under  the  at- 
tending circumstances.  A  day  of  public  thanksgiving  for  the  deliverance  of  PI  is 
Majesty's  subjects  from  the  alleged  conspiracy,  was  appointed  by  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  and  was  devoutly  and  reverently  observed  by  the  inhabitants. — 
Smith's  History. 

HOW    ROCHESTER    WAS    SAVED    FROM    THE    BRITISH. 

In  the  spring  of  1814 — the  war  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain 
being  in  progress — Sir  James  Yeo,  with  a  fleet  of  13  vessels,  appeared  off  tlu 
mouth  of  the  Genesee,  threatening  the  destruction  of  the  rude  improvements  i» 
26 


402  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

tfnd  around  Rochester.     Messengers  were  despatched  to  arouse  the  people  in  the 
surrounding  country,  for  defence  against  the  threatened  attack. 

At  this  time  there  were  but  thirty-three  people  in  Rochester  capable  of  bearing 
arms.  This  little  band  threw  up  a  breastwork  called  Fort  Bender,  near  the  Deep 
Hollow,  beside  the  Lower  Falls,  and  hurried  down  to  the  junction  of  the  Genesee 
and  Lake  Ontario  5  miles  north  of  the  present  city  limits,  where  the  enemy 
threatened  to  land ;  leaving  behind  them  two  old  men,  with  some  young  lads, 
to  remove  the  women  and  children  into  the  woods,  in  case  the  British  should  at- 
tempt to  land  for  the  capture  of  the  provisions,  and  destruction  of  the  bridge  at 
Rochester,  etc.  Francis  Brown  and  Elisha  Ely  acted  as  captains,  and  Isaac  W. 
Stone  as  major,  of  the  Rochester  forces,  which  were  strengthened  by  the  addi- 
tions that  could  be  made  from  this  thinly  settled  region.  Though  the  equipments 
and  discipline  of  these  troops  would  not  form  a  brilliant  picture  for  a  warlike  eye, 
their  very  awkwardness  in  those  points,  coupled  as  it  was  with  their  sagacity 
and  courage,  accomplished  more,  perhaps,  than  could  have  been  effected  by  a 
larger  force  of  regular  troops,  bedizzened  with  the  trappings  of  military  pomp. 
The  militia  thus  hastily  collected  were  inarched  and  countermarched,  disappear- 
ing in  the  woods  at  one  point,  and  suddenly  emerging  elsewhere,  so  as  to  impress 
the  enemy  with  the  belief  that  the  force  collected  for  defence  was  far  greater  than 
it  actually  was.  (The  circumstances  here  related  arc  substantially  as  mentioned 
to  the  writer  by  one  who  was  then  and  is  now  a  resident  of  Rochester.)  An  offi- 
cer with  a  flag  of  truce  was  sent  from  the  British  fleet.  A  militia  officer  marched 
down  with  ten  of  the  most  soldierlike  men  to  receive  him  on  Lighthouse  Point. 
These  militia  men  carried  their  guns  upright,  as  might  be  consistent  with  their 
plan  of  being  ready  for  action  by  keeping  hold  of  the  triggers.  The  British  offi- 
cer was  astonished  :  he  "looked  unutterable  things."  "  Sir,"  said  he,  "do  you 
receive  a  flag  of  truce  under  arms,  with  cocked  triggers  ?" — "  Excuse  me,  excuse 
me,  sir :  we  backwoodsmen  are  not  well  versed  in  military  tactics,"  replied  the 
American  officer,  who  promptly  sought  to  rectify  his  error  by  ordering  his 
men  to  ''ground  arms."  The  Briton  was  still  more  astonished;  and,  after  de- 
livering a  brief  message,  immediately  departed  for  the  fleet,  indicating  by  his 
countenance  a  suspicion  that  the  ignorance  of  tactics,  which  he  had  witnessed, 
was  all  feigned  for  the  occasion,  so  as  to  deceive  the  British  Commodore  into  a 
snare.  Shortly  afterwards,  on  the  same  day,  another  officer  came  ashore  with  a 
flag  of  truce  for  farther  parley,  as  the  British  were  evidently  too  suspicious  of 
stratagem  to  attempt  a  hostile  landing,  if  there  was  any  possibility  of  compromis- 
ing for  the  spoils.  Captain  Francis  Brown  was  deputed  with  a  guard  to  receive 
the  last  flag  of  truce.  The  British  officer  looked  suspiciously  upon  him  and  upon 
his  guard ;  and,  after  some  conversation,  familiarly  grasped  the  pantaloons  of 
Captain  Brown  about  the  knee,  remarking,  as  he  firmly  handled  it,  "  Your  cloth 
is  too  good  to  be  spoiled  by  such  a  bungling  tailor,"  alluding  to  the  width  an.1 
clumsy  aspect  of  that  garment.  Brown  was  quick-witted,  as  well  as  resolute, 
and  replied,  jocosely,  that  he  was  prevented  from  dressing  fashionably  by  his 
haste  that  morning,  to  salute  such  distinguished  visitors.  The  Briton  obviously 
imagined  that  Brown  was  a  regular  officer  of  the  American  army,  whose  regi- 
mentals were  masked  by  clumsy  over  clothes.  The  proposition  was  then  made, 
that,  if  the  Americans  would  deliver  up  the  provisions  and  military  stores,  which 
might  be  in  and  around  Rochester,  or  Charlotte,  Sir  James  Yeo  would  spare  the 
settlements  from  destruction.  "  Will  you  comply  with  the  offer  ?  "— "  Blood 
knee  deep  first,"  was  the  emphatic  reply  of  Francis  Brown. 


NEW   YORK.  403 

While  this  parley  was  in  progress,  an  American  officer,  with  his  staff,  return- 
Ing  from  the  Niagara  frontier,  was  accidentally  seen  passing  from  one  wooded 
point  to  another;  and  this,  with  other  circumstances,  afforded  to  the  British 
"confirmation  strong"  that  their  suspicions  were  well  founded  ;  that  there  was 
a  considerable  American  army  collected  ;  and  that  the  Yankee  officers  pretended 
ignorance  for  the  purpose  of  entrapping  ashore  the  Commodore  and  his  forces. 
The  return  of  the  last  flag  to  the  fleet  was  followed  by  a  vigorous  attack  in  bombs 
and  balls,  while  the  compliment  was  spiritedly  returned,  not  without  some  effect 
on  at  least  one  of  the  vessels,  by  a  rusty  old  six-pounder,  which  had  been  fur- 
nished and  mounted  on  a  log  for  the  important  occasion.  After  a  few  hours 
spent  in  this  unavailing  manner,  Admiral  Yeo  ran  down  to  Pultneyville,  about 
20  miles  eastward  of  Genesee  River,  where,  on  learning  how  they  had  been  out- 
witted and  deterred  from  landing  by  such  a  handful  of  militia,  their  mortification 
could  scarcely  restrain  all  hands  from^a  hearty  laugh  at  the  "  Yankee  trick." 


--3: 


NEW   JERSEY. 

Area, 7,576  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 672,035 

Population  in  1870, 906,096 

THE  State  of  New  Jersey  was  one  of  the  original  colonies  which 
formed  Ithe  American  Union.  It  is  situated  between  38°  56'  and 
41°  21'  N.  latitude,  and  between  74°  and  75°  33'  W.  longitude.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  York,  on  the  east  by  New  York 
(from  which  the  Hudson  River  separates  it)  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
on  the  south  by  Delaware  Bay,  and  on  the  west  by  the  States  of 
Pennsylvania  and  Delaware,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Dela- 
ware River. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  southern  and  middle  parts  of  the  State  are  generally  low,  flat, 
and  sandy,  especially  along  the  coast  and  for  some  distance  inland. 
The  northern  part  is  rugged  and  mountainous.  Schooley's,  Trow- 
briclge,  Ramapo,  and  Second  mountains  in  the  northeast  part  are 
ridges  of  the  Alleghany  range,  making  their  way  across  the  State 
from  Pennsylvania  into  New  York.  The  Blue  Mountains  cross  the 
extreme  northwestern  part  of  the  State,  running  parallel  with  the 
Delaware  River  at  this  point.  Southeast  of  Raritan  Bay,  there  is  a 
range  of  high  hills,  extending  for  a  short  distance  along  the  coast, 
called  the  Nevesink  Highlands.  They  are  crowned  with  a  lighthouse 
and  signal  station,  and  are  the  first  land  seen  by  vessels  entering  the 
port  of  New  York,  and  the  last  on  leaving  it. 

Along  the  Atlantic  coast,  the  shores  are  cut  up  with  numerous  in- 
lets, into  some  of  which  flow  the  principal  rivers  of  the  State.  Some 
of  these  furnish  excellent  harbors.  Raritan  Bay,  in  the  northeast 
part,  lies  opposite  the  harbor  of  New  York,  and  possesses  many  ad- 
404 


NEW   JERSEY.  405 

vantages  for  commerce  over  the  waters  of  the  Great  Metropolis.  New- 
ark Bay  is  connected  with  it  by  Staten  Island  Sound,  and  is  really 
little  more  than  a  broad  estuary  by  which  the  Passaic  River  finds  its 
way  to  the  sea.  It  also  receives  the  waters  of  the  Hackensack  River. 

The  Delaware  River  and  Bay  wash  the  entire  western  side  of  the 
State.  The  river  rises  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Catskill  Moun- 
tains, in  New  York.  It  at  first  consists  of  two  branches,  which  unite 
near  Hancock,  in  Delaware  county,  on  the  southwest  border  of  the 
State.  Flowing  southeast,  it  forms  the  boundary  between  New  York 
and  Pennsylvania  as  far  as  the  northwest  corner  of  New  Jersey,  where 
its  course  is  inflected  to  the  southwest  by  the  Kittatinuy  (or  Shawan- 
gunk)  Mountain.  It  pursues  this  course  to  near  the  41st  parallel  of 
N.  latitude,  when  it  breaks  through  the  Blue  Mountains  by  the  famous 
Delaware  Water  Gap,  and  flows  southward.  The  "  Gap  "  is  one  of 
the  most  celebrated  places  in  the  country.  It  lies  in  the  State  of 
Pennsylvania,  but  for  convenience  is  mentioned  here.  The  cliffs 
rise  up  perpendicularly  from  1000  to  1200  feet  high,  and  the  river 
rushes  through  it  in  grand  style.  It  is  much  visited  by  tourists. 
The  river  flows  southward  until  it  passes  Easton,  Pa.,  when  it  turns 
again  to  the  southeast,  which  course  it  pursues  to  its  mouth.  Its  cur- 
rent is  broken  by  a  succession  of  Rapids  at  Trenton,  but  below  this 
city  it  is  smooth  and  deep.  The  river  is  300  miles  long,  and  is  naviga- 
ble for  ships  of  the  line  to  Philadelphia,  about  40  miles  from  its 
entrance  into  Delaware  Bay.  Steamboats  ascend  to  Trenton.  A 
canal  has  been  constructed  from  Bristol,  below  Trenton,  to  Easton, 
Pa.,  along  the  west  side  of  the  river.  A  heavy  trade  is  carried  on  by 
means  of  it.  The  Delaware  is  bridged  in  several  places  along  its 
upper  course,  commencing  at  Trenton.  A  canal,  extending  from 
Trenton  to  New  Brunswick,  connects  it  with  the  waters  of  the  Raritan 
River  and  New  York  Bay. 

Philadelphia  and  Easton,  on  the  right  bank,  and  Trenton,  Bur- 
lington, and  Camden,  on  the  left  bank,  are  the  principal  towns  on 
the  river. 

The  Hudson  River  washes  part  of  the  eastern  shore  of  the  State. 
The  other  streams  are  the  Raritan,  rising  in  Morris  county,  and  flow- 
ing into  Raritan  Bay,  navigable  to  New  Brunswick ;  the  Passaic, 
rising  in  Morris  county,  and  flowing  into  Newark  Bay,  navigable  to 
Newark;  and  the  Hackensack,  which  rises  in  Bergen  county,  and 
flows  into  Newark  Bay.  The  Passaic  has  a  perpendicular  fall  of  50 
feet,  at  Paterson.  A  number  of  small  streams  flow  into  the  inlets  on 
the  east  coast. 


406  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

Cape  May,  on  the  extreme  southeastern  side  of  Delaware  Bay,  is 
one  of  the  most  fashionable  watering  places  in  America.  Long  Branch, 
on  the  Atlantic  coast,  near  New  York,  is  another  fashionable  resort, 
and  ranks  next  to  Newport  in  the  list  of  sea-shore  resorts.  There  are 
several  others  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

The  scenery  of  the  State  is  very  beautiful  in  many  places,  and  very 
dreary  in  others.  The  Falls  of  the  Passaic  are  noted  for  their  beauty 
when  the  stream  is  full ;  and  the  mountainous  region  of  the  north, 
especially  the  country  along  the  upper  Delaware,  is  wild  and  pictur- 
esque. The  Nevesink  Highlands  command  a  fine  view  of  the  ocean, 
and  of  Raritan  and  New  York  bays.  The  country  northwest  of 
New  York  is  finely  cultivated,  and  is  well  built  up  with  numerous 
pretty  towns  and  villages. 

MINERALS. 

Central  and  southern  New  Jersey  contain  immense  beds  of  marl, 
which  is  now  growing  in  favor  as  a  fertilizer.  The  changes  in  the 
agriculture  of  the  State,  caused  by  the  introduction  and  general  use 
of  this  cheap  manure,  are  almost  marvellous.  These  deposits  seem 
to  be  inexhaustible,  and  for  the  most  part  lie  very  near  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  Bog  ore  is  found  in  the  southern  counties,  and  hema- 
tite and  magnetic  ores  in  the  hilly  regions  of  the  north.  Marble, 
limestone,  slate,  beds  of  peat,  copperas,  and  a  fine  sand  used  in  mak- 
ing glass  are  found.  In  Sussex  county  are  situated  the  most  valu- 
able zinc  mines  in  the  Union. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  the  northern  and  northwestern  parts  of  the  State  is 
severe.  In  the  eastern  and  southern  the  winters  are  milder.  The 
summers  are  hot  and  dry,  but  the  spring  comes  early,  and  is  pleasant. 
The  southern  and  eastern  parts  are,  to  a  great  extent,  marshy,  and 
covered  with  rank,  coarse  vegetation.  Agues  and  fever  prevail 
along  almost  the  entire  water  line  of  the  State,  and  in  many  of  the 
interior  districts.  The  northern  and  northwestern  portions  are 
healthy. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

Along  the  sea  coast,  and  in  some  of  the  interior  regions,  the  soil  con- 
sists of  a  fine  white  sand,  and  is  worthless  for  agriculture.  The  hilly 
region  of  the  north  is  devoted  to  dairy  farming  and, grazing.  The 
soil  of  the  greater  .portion  of  the  State  is  light  and  sandy,  and  was  for 


NEW   JERSEY. 


407 


GATHERING  WATERMELONS. 

a  long  time  esteemed  too  poor  to  justify  cultivation,  but  the  liberal 
and  judicious  use  of  fertilizers  lias  brought  it  to  a  high,  and  even  re- 
markable state  of  fertility.  Lying  so  near  the  great  cities  of  New 
York  and  Philadelphia,  unusual  advantages  are  offered  the  farmers 
of  this  State  for  the  rapid  sale  of  their  crops,  and  as  a  consequence 
they  are  largely  engaged  in  market-gardening. 

In  1869,  there  were  1,944,441  acres  of  improved,  and  1,039,086 
acres  of  unimproved  land  in  the  State.  The  remainder  of  the  agri- 
cultural wealth  of  New  Jersey,  for  the  same  year,  is  given  as  follows : 

Cash  value  of  farms  (estimated), $250,000,000 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery 


Number  of  horses            .         .    . 

.     .    .            85,460 

asses  and  mules,     .... 

.     .     .               6,960 

.     .     .           149,450 

.     .     .             99,450 

...         .  140,160 

"            swine,    %   . 

.     .     .           300,540 
.     .     .     $19,134,693 

Bushels  of  wheat,   

.     .     .        1,646,000 

403  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Bushels  of  rye, 1.500,000 

Indian  corn, 9,200,000 

"             oats, 6,440,000 

potatoes, 5,300,000 

barley, 26,000 

"             buckwheat, 800,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 10,714,447 

cheese, 182,172 

"            flax, 48,651 

u           beeswax  and  honey, 194,055 

Gallons  of  wine, 22,000 

Tons  of  hay, 525,000 

.     Value  of  orchard  products  (about),      ....  $1,000,000 

market  garden  products  (about),   .     .  $2,000,000 

"          slaughtered  animals  (about),      .    .    .  $5,000,000 


COMMERCE. 


Though  admirably  situated  for  commerce,  it  is  the  misfortune  of 
New  Jersey  to  lie  just  between  the  great  ports  of  New  York  and 
Philadelphia,  which  of  course  manage  her  commerce  for  her.  This 
situation,  however,  throws  an  enormous  internal  transit  trade  into 
her  hands,  and  has  given  to  her  railroads  and  steamboat  communica- 
tions an  importance  they  would  not  otherwise  have  attained.  Some 
idea  of  this  may  be  gained  from  the  following  statistics.  In  1867, 
the  Camden  and  Amboy  Railroad  and  Transportation  Company  car- 
ried over  their  road,  539,688  tons  of  freight,  and  40,667  tons  of  coal. 
The  Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal  in  the  same  year  transported  1,838,- 
988  tons  of  coal,  2,636,738  cubic  feet  of  timber,  20,348,288  feet  of 
lumber,  2,605,012  bushels  of  grain  and  feed,  55,630  tons  of  iron,  and 
365,751  tons  of  merchandise.  In  1861,  the  total  value  of  the  exports 
of  this  State  was  $46,067,  and  of  the  imports  $5510.  In  1863,  the 
imports  were  valued  at  $3616,  and  the  exports  at  $56,192.  In  1863, 
the  tonnage  owned  in  the  State  was  138,046  tons. 

MANUFACTURES. 

The  water-power  of  the  State  is  excellent,  and  the  manufactures 
are  extensive.  In  I860  there  were  4060  establishments  in  New 
Jersey,  devoted  to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts, 
employing  127,720  hands,  and  a  capital  of  $40,000,000,  consuming 
raw  material  worth  $42,600,000,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of 
$81,000,000.  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  principal  manufactures 
of  the  State  in  1860; 


NEW   JERSEY. 


411 


Value  of  cotton  goods, $3,250,770 

woollen  goods, 1,527,209 

leather, 1,297,627 

pig-iron, 574,820 

rolled  iron, 1,370,725 

steam  engines  and  machinery,  ....  3,215,673 

agricultural  implements, 198,211 

sawed  and  planed  lumber,    .....  1,600,000 

flour, 6,400,000 

malt  and  spirituous  liquors,      ....  1,357,000 

boots  and  shoes, 1,850,137 

jewelry,  silverware,  etc.,  ......  2,281,344 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

This  State  is  amply  provided  with  railroad 
communication.  Four  great  lines,  the  New 
Jersey,  Erie,  Central  New  Jersey,  and  Morris 
and  Essex,  afford  direct  and  unbroken  trans- 
portation to  all  parts  of  the  West,  and  the 
Camden  and  Amboy  extends  across  the  State, 
from  New  York  to  Philadelphia.  Five  main 
routes  centre  in  Jersey  City,  opposite  New 
York,  and  four  in  Camden,  opposite  Phila- 
delphia. In  1872,  there  were  1265  miles  of  completed  railroads  in 
the  State. 

Two  canals,  having  an  aggregate  length  of  147  miles,  extend  across 
the  State,  one  from  Bordentown  (through  Trenton)  to  New  Bruns- 
wick, affording  steam  transportation  between  the  Delaware  and  Rari- 
tan  rivers,  and  the  other  extending  from  Jersey  City  and  Newark  to 
Easton,  Pennsylvania. 

EDUCATION. 

The  educational  system  of  New  Jersey  is  controlled  by  a  State 
Superintendent  and  Board  of  Education,  the  latter  consisting  of  17 
persons,  who  are  appointed  for  two  years.  Each  county  is  in  charge 
of  a  County  Superintendent,  who  has  immediate  charge  of  its 
schools. 

There  is  a  Normal  School  at  Trenton,  and  a  Normal  Preparatory 
School  at  Beverly,  both  in  flourishing  condition.  There  is  a  perma- 
nent School  Fund  amounting  to  $557,115.  In  1870,  the  State  expended 
the  sum  of  $1,562,573  on  its  schools.  The  number  of  children  in  the 
State,  between  the  ages  of  five  and  eighteen  years,  in  1870,  was  258,- 


TIIE  BERGEN  TUNNEL. 


412  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

227.  Of  these,  161,683  attended  the  public  schools,  and  32,447  at- 
tended private  schools,  making  a  total  of  194,130  children  receiving 
instruction.  A  number  of  private  schools,  and  several  academies  are 
in  successful  operation  in  the  State. 

The  College  of  New  Jersey,  at  Princeton,  is  the  oldest  in  the  State, 
having  been  established  in  1 746.  It  is  in  a  flourishing  condition,  and 
is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  principal  educational  establishments 
of  the  Union.  Rutger's  College,  at  New  Brunswick,  is  also  a  flourish- 
ing institution.  Connected  with  it  is  the  State  Agricultural  College, 
which  is  in  prosperous  operation.  The  instruction  is  by  the  example 
of  the  college  farm,  and  the  lectures  of  the  Professor  of  Agriculture, 
delivered  in  all  the  counties  of  the  State.  There  are  several  other 
colleges  and  theological  seminaries  in  the  State. 

In  1870,  there  2413  libraries  in  New  Jersey,  containing  895,291 
volumes.  Of  these  about  1300,  containing  over  300,000  volumes,  are 
puhlic. 

In  the  same  year,  there  were  published  in  the  State  20  daily,  1  semi- 
weekly,  95  weekly  and  7  monthly  newspapers  and  magazines.  Of  these, 
105  were  political,  2  religious,  10  literary  and  miscellaneous,  making 
a  total  of  117,  with  an  aggregate  annual  circulation  of  18,625,740  copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Prison,  at  Trenton,  is  overcrowded,  and  is  in  great  need 
of  more  extensive  buildings.  The  labor  of  the  convicts  is  let  out  to 
contractors.  The  separate  and  silent  systems  are  not  in  force  in  this 
institution,  to  the  injury  of  its  discipline.  A  library  is  provided  for 
the  prisoners.  On  the  1st  of  January,  1868,  there  were  about  550 
convicts  confined  here,  or  nearly  200  more  than  the  prison  was  de- 
signed to  accommodate. 

The  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  at  Trenton,  is  a  flourishing  institution, 
with  450  patients  on  the  1st  of  November,  1867.  The  State  also 
maintains  a  flourishing  Reform  School,  at  Jarnesburg,  a  Home  for  Dis- 
abled Soldiers,  at  Newark,  and  a  Home  for  Soldiers'  Children,  at  Tren- 
ton, and  makes  a  liberal  provision  for  its  deaf,  dumb,  and  blind,  in 
the  establishments  of  Philadelphia  and  Hartford. 


RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  total  value  of  church  property  in  the  State  was  $18,- 
347,150.     The  number  of  churches  was  1384. 


NEW    JERSEY.  413 

FINANCES. 

The  State  debt  is  due  entirely  on  account  of  the  late  war,  and  amounts 
to  $2,996,200.  Deducting  assets  it  is  $1,880,594.  The  receipts  of  the 
Treasury  for  eleven  months  of  1870  were  $631,303.66,  and  the  expen- 
ditures, $562,123.71,  leaving  a  balance  on  hand  of  $69,179.95. 

In  1868,  there  wer.e  54  national  banks,  with  an  aggregate  paid  in 
capital  of  $11,583,450. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  Constitution  of  this  State  was  adopted  in  1844.  By  its  terms, 
every  white  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  21  years  old,  having 
resided  in  the  State  one  year  and  in  the  county  five  months,  is  entitled 
to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is  confided  to  a  Governor,  Secretary  of  State, 
Treasurer,  Comptroller,  Attorney-General,  and  a  Legislature,  consist- 
ing of  a  Senate  (of  21  members),  and  a  House  of  Representatives 
(of  60  members).  The  Governor  is  elected  by  the  people  for  the  term 
of  three  years.  The  Senators  are  elected  for  three  years,  one-third 
every  year;  and  the  Representatives  annually  for  one  year.  The 
Secretary  of  State  holds  office  for  five  years,  is  appointed  by  the  Gov- 
ernor by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate.  The  State 
Treasurer  is  elected  by  the  Legislature,  on  joint  ballot,  and  holds 
office  for  one  year. 

The  Court  of  Chancery  is  held  by  the  Chancellor. 

The  Supreme  Court  is  composed  of  a  Chief  Justice  and  six  Asso- 
ciate Justices.  The  members  of  this  court  and  the  Chancellor  are 
appointed  by  the  Governor,  confirmed  by  the  Senate,  and  hold  office 
for  seven  years. 

The  Court  of  Errors  and  Appeals  consists  of  the  Chancellor,  the 
Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  six  other  judges  (appointed  and 
confirmed  in  the  manner  stated  above,  for  a  period  of  six  years,  one 
judge  going  out  of  office  each  year).  The  State  is  divided  into  seven 
districts.  A  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court  is  assigned  to  each  one  of 
these,  and  holds  in  his  district  courts  of  Oyer  and  Terminer  three 
times  a  year  in  each  county.  He  is  also  ex-officio  judge  of  the  court 
of  Common  Pleas,  Orphans  Court,  and  Court  of  Quarter  Sessions  in 
his  district. 

For  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  21  counties. 
The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Trenton. 


414  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


HISTORY. 

New  Jersey  was  settled  by  the  Dutch,  soon  after  their  arrival  in 
New  Amsterdam.  They  established  a  colony  at  Bergen,  between  the 
years  1617  and  1620.  In  1630,  they  built  a  small  fort  on  the  Dela- 
ware, below  the  present  city  of  Philadelphia.  In  1634,  a  company 
of  English  settlers,  under  the  authority  of  a  patent  from  their  king, 
settled  on  the  shores  of  the  lower  Delaware;  and  in  1638,  the  same 
region  was  colonized  by  a  party  of  Swedes  and  Finns.  The  Dutch 
and  Swedes  drove  out  the  English  settlers,  and  in  1655,  the  Swedes, 
themselves,  were  driven  out  by  the  Dutch,  and  nearly  all  sent  back 
to  Europe.  When  the  province  of  New  York  was  seized  by  the 
English,  New  Jersey  went  with  it.  Soon  after  this,  Elizabethtown, 
Newark,  Middletown,  and  Shrewsbury  were  founded.  A  little  later, 
and  the  district  was  purchased  from  the  Duke  of  York,  by  Sir  George 
Carteret  and  Lord  Berkeley,  and  erected  into  a  separate  province  with 
its  present  name.  The  seat  of  government  was  established  at  Eliza- 
beth, and  some  little  difficulty  was  experienced  in  inducing  the  in- 
habitants to  submit  to  the  new  authorities.  The  province  suffered 
considerably  from  the  despotic  rule  of  Sir  Edmund  Andros. 

For  some  time,  the  government  of  the  province  was  a  condition  of 
semi-anarchy,  owing  to  the  refusal  of  the  home  Government  to  recog- 
nize the  claims  of  the  proprietors.  This  dispute  was  complicated  by 
the  claim  of  Pennsylvania  to  the  southern  part  of  the  State.  It  was 
settled  in  1702,  by  the  proprietors  surrendering  the  right  of  govern- 
ment to  the  Crown.  The  provinces  of  New  York  and  New  Jersey 
were  allowed  separate  Assemblies,  but  were  both  placed  by  Queen 
Anne  under  one  Governor.  In  1708,  New  Jersey  protested  against 
this  arrangement,  and  was  given  a  separate  Governor,  in  the  person 
of  Lewis  Morris. 

The  colony  suffered  very  little  from  the  Indians,  but  bore  its  share 
in  the  wars  with  the  French.  It  gave  a  hearty  support,  and  played 
a  conspicuous  part  in  the  great  Revolution.  During  this  war,  the 
battles  of  Trenton,  Princeton,  Millstone,  Red  Bank,  and  Monmouth, 
were  fought  in  this  State,  whose  territory  was  more  or  less  occupied 
by  the  two  armies  during  the  greater  part  of  the  war. 

The  first  State  Constitution  was  adopted  in  1776.  On  the  18th  of 
December,  1787,  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States  was  ratified  by 
New  Jersey;  and  in  1790,  the  seat  of  government  for  the  State  was 
established  at  Trenton. 


NEW   JERSEY.  415 

During  the  late  war,  New  Jersey  contributed  a  force  of  79,348  men 
to  the  service  of  the  Union. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Trenton,  the  capital  of  the  State, 
Newark,  Jersey  City,  Paterson,  Elizabeth,  Camden,  New  Brunswick, 
Orange,  Morristown,  Rahway,  Burlington,  Hackensack,  Bridgeton, 
Bloomfield,  Middletown,  and  Bordentown. 

TRENTON, 

The  capital,  and  fourth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Delaware  River,  in  Mercer  county,  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation.  It  is  30  miles  northeast  of  Philadelphia,  and  57  miles 
southwest  of  New  York.  The  city  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the 
Assunpink  Creek — Trenton  proper  and  South  Trenton.  It  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  and  has  many  fine  stores  and  handsome  dwellings.  It 
is  built  on  a  tolerably  uneven  surface.  State  street,  which  runs  par- 
allel with  the  river,  contains  many  elegant  residences.  Main  street, 
which  intersects  it  at  right  angles,  is  the  principal  business  thprough- 
fare.  The  situation  of  the  city  on  the  Delaware  is  very  beautiful,  and 
commands  extensive  views  of  the  river  and  the  vicinity. 

A  fine,  covered  bridge  crosses  the  Delaware  at  the  lower  part  of  the 
town,  connecting  Trenton  with  the  Pennsylvania  shore  of  the  river. 
It  is  used  by  the  railway  and  by  vehicles  and  pedestrians.  Another 
bridge,  also  covered,  spans  the  river  about  a  mile  above.  The  Dela- 
ware and  Raritan  Canal  passes  through  the  city,  connecting  it  with 
New  York  and  Philadelphia.  There  is  railway  communication  be- 
tween Trenton  and  all  parts  of  the  State  and  country. 

There  is  excellent  water-power  at  Trenton,  and  the  city  is  to  a  con- 
siderable extent  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  iron  and  iron-ware, 
flour,  paper,  locomotives,  cars,  etc. 

The  public  buildings  are,  the  City  Hall;  the  State  Capitol,  a  hand- 
some edifice  of  stone,  100  by  60  feet,  situated  on  State  street,  and 
overlooking  the  river ;  the  County  Court  House,  built  in  the  Grecian 
style ;  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum ;  and  the  State  Penitentiary.  The 
State  Library  is  also  located  at  Trenton. 

The  city  possesses  a  systenj  of  public  schools  equal  to  any  in  the 
State  in  usefulness ;  it  contains  over  20  churches ;  and  is  governed  by 
a  Mayor  and  Council.  The  population  in  1870  was  22,874. 


416  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

• 
Trenton  was  first  settled  by  Phineas  Pemberton  and  others,  about 

1680.  In  1720  the  settlement  was  called  Trenton,  in  honor  of  Colonel 
William  Trent,  speaker  of  the  Assembly.  In  1790  it  became  the  seat 
of  Government  for  the  State  of  New  Jersey,  and  in  1792  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city.  The  most  important  event  in  its  history  is  the 
battle  of  Trenton,  which  was  fought  within  the  present  limits  of  the 
city,  on  the  26th  of  December,  1776.  The  Americans  had  lost  the 
battle  of  Long  Island,  and  had  been  forced  to  evacuate  the  City  of 
New  York,  which  was  promptly  occupied  by  the  British  under  Sir 
Henry  Clinton.  A  series  of  disasters  ensued,  and  at  the  end  of  the 
year  1776  Washington  had  been  driven  across  the  Delaware,  and  the 
only  troops  that  remained  faithful  to  their  colors  consisted  of  less  than 
4000  half-starved  men,  destitute  of  blankets  and  tents.  The  people 
of  the  country  were  rapidly  coming  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Colonial 
cause  was  hopeless,  and  were  beginning  to  make  their  peace  with  the 
Royal  authorities.  Washington  alone  was  hopeful,  and  he  alone  was 
resolved  to  put  an  end  to  the  gloom  of  the  situation.  Learning  that 
a  large  force  of  Hessians  had  been  thrown  forward  to  Trenton,  where 
they  held  an  exposed  position,  he  suddenly  faced  about,  crossed  the 
Delaware  in  open  boats,  despite  the  snow  and  ice,  on  the  night  of 
December  25th,  1776,  and  at  daybreak  the  next  morning  made  a 
sharp  attack  on  the  Hessian  force,  surprising  them  and  routing  them 
completely.  He  took  about  1000  prisoners,  6  brass  field  pieces,  1000 
stand  of  arms,  and  4  standards,  and  lost  but  4  of  his  own  men.  On 
the  night  of  the  26th  he  recrossed  the  Delaware  to  his  own  camp  in 
Pennsylvania.  This  victory  was  highly  important,  as  it  marks  the 
close  of  the  long  series  of  reverses  we  have  referred  to,  and  the  begin- 
ning of  the  successful  resistance  of  the  nation.  From  this  time  for- 
ward the  despondent  took  fresh  courage  from  the  example  set  them  by 
their  great  commander,  and  with  stout  hearts  and  strong  arms  fresh 
attacks  were  made  upon  the  enemy,  resulting  finally  in  the  nation's 
independence.  Twelve  years  later,  as  Washington  was  returning 
from  New  York  to  Mount  Vernon,  he  was  accorded  a  most  enthusi- 
astic and  touching  welcome  by  the  citizens  at  Trenton  Bridge. 

NEWARK, 

The  largest  and  most  important  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Essex 
county,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Passaic  River,  4  miles  from  its 
entrance  into  Newark  Bay,  9  miles  west  of  New  York.  The  site  of 
the  city  is  chiefly  a  large  plain,  bounded  on  the  west  by  a  range  of 


NEW   JERSEY.  417 

moderate  heights  which  extend  from  the  northern  to  the  southern 
limits  of  the  town.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  off,  and  the  streets  are 
hroad,  straight,  and  shaded  with  fine  trees.  Broad  street  is  the  prin- 
cipal thoroughfare,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest  streets  in  the  country. 
It  is  120  feet  wide,  and  is  lined  with  noble  elms.  At  intervals  along 
its  course,  are  tastefully  laid  off  parks,  famous  for  their  beautiful  trees. 
These  parks  are  surrounded  by  elegant  residences,  and  constitute  the 
fashionable  quarters  of  the  city.  Market  street  intersects  Broad  street, 
about  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  communicates  with  the  principal 
railway  depot.  The  private  streets  are  generally  attractive.  The 
more  pretentious  residences  are  of  brown  stone,  freestone,  or  brick, 
but  the  city  is,  as  a  rule,  built  up  with  tasteful  frame  cottages  located 
often  in  the  midst  of  large  grounds.  Large  numbers  of  persons  doing 
business  in  New  York  have  their  residences  in  Newark.  Upwards 
of  200  passenger  trains  go  and  come  between  the  two  cities  every  day. 

The  public  buildings  are  generally  handsome.  The  principal  are, 
the  City  Hall,  the  Custom  House  and  Post  Office,  the  Court  House,  and 
the  Library  Building.  They  are  all  elegant  and  costly  edifices.  In 
addition  to  these,  there  are  several  buildings  used  by  banks,  insurance 
companies,  and  merchants,  which  are  worthy  of  special  notice. 

The  Literary  and  Educational  Institutions  are  of  a  high  character. 
Those  most  deserving  notice  are  the  New  Jersey  Historical  Society, 
with  a  fine  library  of  over  2000  volumes ;  the  Library  Association, 
with  an  elegant  building  and  a  collection  of  over  14,000  volumes;  the 
Newark  Academy,  beautifully  located  in  the  most  elevated  part  of  the 
city;  and  the  public  schools,  of  which  there  are  12,  and  a  high  school. 

There  are  more  than  75  churches  in  the  city,  some  of  which  are 
very  handsome. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  street  railways;  it  is  lighted  with 
gas,  is  supplied  with  pure  water,  has  an  excellent  system  of  sewers, 
and  has  a  police  and  fire  alarm  telegraph,  a  steam  fire  engine  depart- 
ment, paid  by  the  city,  and  an  efficient  police  force. 

The  Passaic  River,  which  is  navigable  for  steamers  to  the  upper 
portion  of  the  city,  furnishes  good  water  communication  with  New 
York  and  the  ocean.  The  Morris  Canal,  extending  from  Easton,  Pa., 
to  Jersey  City,  passes  through  Newark.  At  its  entrance  into  the 
western  portion  of  the  city  is  a  steep  inclined  plain,  over  which  loaded 
boats  are  passed  on  trucks,  the  motive  power  being  furnished  by  the 
water  of  the  canal.  There  is  daily  steamboat  communication  with 
New  York,  with  which  city  Newark  is  connected  by  3  lines  of  rail- 
27 


418  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

way.  Railways  diverge  from  Newark  to  the  principal  towns  of  the 
State. 

The  city  has  grown  with  great  rapidity  during  the  last  25  years, 
and  owes  its  prosperity  chiefly  to  its  manufacturing  interests.  These 
are  scattered  through  a  number  of  generally  small  establishments,  but 
foot  up  an  enormous  aggregate.  There  are  over  550  establishments 
in  the  city,  the  annual  product  of  which  is  estimated  at  over 
$25,000,000.  It  is  the  principal  point  in  the  Union  for  the  manu- 
facture of  jewelry.  India  rubber  goods,  carriages,  omnibuses, 
machinery,  castings,  leather,  boots,  shoes,  saddles,  harness,  trunks, 
and  clothing  are  manufactured  in  large  quantities.  The  India  Rubber 
Works  are  very  extensive,  as  are  those  for  the  manufacture  of  car- 
riages, omnibuses,  machinery,  castings,  etc. 

Newark  is  a  port  of  entry,  but  its  commerce  is  almost  entirely 
confined  to  the  coasting  trade.  Its  proximity  to  New  York  renders 
it  insignificant  as  a  port. 

The  city  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  The  population  in 
1870  was  105,059.  The  foreign  population  is  very  large,  and  the 
city  is  the  see- of  a  Roman  Catholic  Bishop.  In  1830  the  population 
was  10,950;  in  1840,  17,290;  in  1850,  38,983;  in  1860,  71,914. 

Newark  was  settled  in  May,  1666,  by  a  company  of  30  families 
from  New  Haven,  led  by  Captain  Robert  Treat,  and  the  next  year 
they  were  joined  by  an  equal  number  of  settlers  from  Guilford  and 
Branford,  Conn.,  led  by  their  minister,  the  Rev.  Abraham  Pierson. 
Mr.  Pierson  had  come  originally  from  Newark,  in  England,  and  the 
new  settlement  was  called  after  his  old  home.  "  Their  object  seems 
to  have  been  to  establish  a  Puritan  community,  to  be  administered 
under  the  laws  of  God,  by  members  of  the  church,  on  strictly  demo- 
cratic principles.  They  left  Connecticut  because  the  colony  of  New 
Haven,  to  which  they  belonged,  had  been  united  to  the  Connecticut 
colony  of  Hartford,  a  union  which  interfered  with  their  independence. 
The  proprietors  of  New  Jersey  had  just  issued  their  liberal  proposals 
to  settlers,  known  as  '  the  grants  and  concessions ; '  and  Treat  and 
Pierson,  and  their  associates,  having  obtained  from  Philip  Carteret, 
the  proprietary  governor,  a  licence  to  purchase  land,  paid  to  the 
Indians  for  the  tract  which  now  constitutes  Newark,  Clinton,  Orange, 
Bloomfield  and  Belleville,  <£310  New  England  currency,  12  Indian 
blankets,  and  12  Indian  guns.  The  settlers  laid  out  the  town  plat 
of  Newark,  with  its  spacious  streets  and  parks  as  they  now  exist.  A 
homestead  lot  of  6  acres  was  assigned  to  each  settler  or  head  of  family, 


NEW    JERSEY.  419 

with  out-lands  and  meadow  for  agricultural  purposes,  farming  having 
for  several  generations  constituted  the  main  pursuit  of  the  inhabitants. 
They  passed  a  law  that  none  should  become  freemen  or  free  burgesses 
of  the  town,  or  vote  at  its  elections,  or  be  chosen  to  the  magistracy, 
or  to  any  chief  military  trust  or  office,  but  such  planters  as  were 
members  of  the  congregational  churches ;  though  all  others  admitted  to 
be*  planters  should  have  right  to  their  inheritances,  and  all  other  civil 
rights  and  privileges.  Their  first  care  was  to  build  a  meeting-house, 
and. in  1676  a  school-house  was  established."  The  settlement  pros- 
pered, and  in  1683  contained  100  families.  The  troubles  of  the 
Revolution  struck  a  severe  blow  at  it,  and  scattered  the  population. 
After  the  close  of  the  war  its  prosperity  returned.  The  stone  quar- 
ries in  the  vicinity  were  extensively  worked,  and  the  manufacture  of 
shoes,  carriages,  and  cider  made  it  a  place  of  importance.  In  1794 
bridges  were  built  over  the  Passaic  and  Hackensack,  which  had  until 
then  been  passed  by  means  of  ferry  boats,  and  the  intercourse  of  New- 
ark with  New  York  was  thus  greatly  facilitated.  In  1832  the  Morris 
Canal,  connecting  the  city  with  Easton,  Pa.,  was  completed ;  in  1834 
the  railway  to  Jersey  City  was  opened ;  and  in  1836  Newark  was 
incorporated  as  a  city. 

JERSEY  CITY, 

The  second  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Hudson  county,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Hudson  River,  at  its  entrance  into  New  York  Bay, 
and  immediately  opposite  the  city  of  New  York.  The  city  limits  at 
present  include  Jersey  City,  Hoboken,  Hudson  City,  and  the  other 
towns  in  Hudson  county.  The  site  of  Jersey  City  proper  i*  low  and 
flat,  as  is  that  of  Hoboken,  but  Hudson  City  and  the  other  towns  now 
included  within  the  corporate  limits  lie  on  a  range  of  bold  heights, 
extending  back  from  the  Hudson,  which  command  fine  views  of  New 
York  and  the  surrounding  country  on  both  sides  of  the  Hudson. 
From  the  highest  point  on  these  heights,  New  York,  Brooklyn,  the 
neighboring  towns  in  Westchester  county,  New  York,  Jersey  City, 
Newark,  Paterson,  Orange,  and  Elizabeth,  the  Hudson,  East  Hack- 
ensack, and  Passaic  rivers,  New  York  and  Newark  Bays,  Long 
Island  Sound,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  may  all  be  seen. 

The  streets  are  generally  wide  and  straight,  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles.  The  appearance  of  the  city  is  not  prepossessing,  though 
there  are  some  handsome  localities.  There  are  no  public  buildings 
worthy  of  mention,  though  the  city  promises  to  improve  in  this  re- 


420  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

spect.  Jersey  City  is,  in  fact,  but  a  mere  suburb  of  New  York,  hav- 
ing very  little  importance  of  its  own. 

Its  public  schools  are  good;  it  has  a  number  of  churches;  is  well 
supplied  with  street  railways;  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  furnished 
with  pure  water  from  the  Passaic  River,  7  or  8  miles  distant.  It  is, 
to  a  limited  extent,  engaged  in  manufactures.  Being  included  within 
the  limits  of  the  port  of  New  York,  it  has  no  commerce  of  its  own! 

It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Morris  Canal,  connecting  it  witli  Easton, 
.Pa.,  by  means  of  which  it  carries  on  a  large  coal  trade.  It 
is  also  the  terminus  of  the  New  Jersey  Central,  the  New  York  and 
Newark,  the  New  Jersey,  the  Northern  New  Jersey,  the  Erie,  and 
the  Morris  and  Essex  railways.  The  Cunard  Mail  Steamers,  sailing 
to  Liverpool,  and  the  steamers  to  Bremen  and  Hamburg,  have  their 
docks  in  Jersey  City. 

The  city  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  popu- 
lation was  82,547. 

The  peninsula  upon  which  Jersey  City  proper  stands  was  granted 
to  Sir  William  Kieft,  Director-General  of  the  Dutch  West  India 
Company,  in  1638,  but  it  was  used  almost  exclusively  for  farming 
purposes  until  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  It  was  known 
as  Paulus  Hook.  In  1802,  there  were  but  13  persons  living  on  the 
peninsula,  and  but  one  house  and  its  outbuildings  on  the  site  of  the 
present  city.  In  1804,  the  place  was  laid  out  in  blocks.  In  1820, 
the  "city  of  Jersey"  was  incorporated,  with  a  board  of  select-men; 
and  in  1838,  the  place  was  reincorporated  as  Jersey  City.  In  1870, 
its  limits  were  extended  so  as  to  include  Hoboken,  Hudson  City,  and 
the  neighboring  towns. 

PATERSON, 

The  third  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Passaic  county,  New  Jer- 
sey, on  the  right  bank  of  the  Passaic  River,  immediately  below  the 
falls  of  that  stream,  13  miles  north  of  Newark,  and  17  miles  north- 
west of  New  York.  Although  the  third  city  in  population,  it  is  the 
second  in  importance,  in  consequence  of  its  manufactures.  The  city 
is  well  laid  out,  and  is  handsome  in  appearance.  The  streets  are 
straight,  well  paved,  and  lighted  with  gas.  There  are  many  elegant 
dwellings  in  the  private  portions,  the  city  being  a  favorite  place  of 
rasidence  with  persons  doing  business  in  New  York.  The  scenery 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  falls  is  very  beautiful,  and  attracts  many  visi- 
tors. 


NEW   JERSEY. 


421 


FALLS  OF   PASSAIC   AT   PATEHSOX. 


The  Morris  Canal  furnishes  water  transportation  to  the  ocean,  and 
the  Erie  and  other  railways  afford  communication  with  all  parts  of 
the  Union.  The  Passaic  has  here  a  total  descent  of  72  feet,  and  a 
perpendicular  fall  of  50  feet.  This  affords  an  immense  water-power, 
which  has  been  improved  by 'a  dam  and  canals.  The  power  thus 
supplied  by  the  falls  turns  many  factories,  several  of  which  occupy 
extensive  buildings  of  stone.  There  arc  over  20  establishments  in 
the  city,  including  the  largest  silk  works  in  the  United  States.  Silks, 
cotton  goods,  machinery,  locomotives,  guns,  paper,  carnages,  steam 
engines,  etc.,  are  extensively  produced  here. 

The  city  contains  a  number  of  excellent  public  schools,  about  16 
churches,  and  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Passaic.  It  is  governed 
by  a  Mayor  and  Council,  elected  by  the  people.  In  1870  the  popu- 
lation was  35,582. 

Paterson  was  laid  out  in  1791,  by  an  incorporated  company,  pos- 
sessing a  capital  of  $1,000,000.  Their  object  was  to  use  the  falls  for 
the  manufacture  of  cotton  cloth,  but  this  being  forfnd  premature  was 
abandoned.  In  1860  the  population  was  19,586. 


422  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ELIZABETH, 

The  fifth  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Union  county,  15  miles  west- 
southwest  of  New  York,  and  5  miles  south  by  west  of  Newark.  It 
is  pleasantly  located  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
cities  in  the  State.  It  is  mainly  taken  up  with  frame  cottages  and 
villas,  but  brown  stone  and  brick  are  now  coming  into  general  use. 
Street  railways  connect  its  various  parts,  and  the  New  Jersey  and 
'New  Jersey  Central  Railways  intersect  each  other  here,  and  connect 
it- with  New  York  and  the  various  parts  of  the  country.  It  contains 
several  large  manufactories,  a  number  of  handsome  buildings  devoted 
to  business,  and  over  20  churches,  some  of  which  are  very  handsome. 
Large  numbers  of  persons  doing  business  in  New  York  reside  here. 
Its  public  schools  are  noted  for  their  excellence.  It  is  lighted  with 
gas;  is  supplied  with  water;  and  is  provided  with  an  efficient  police 
force,  and  a  steam  fire  department.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council,  elected  by  the  people.  In  1870  the  population  was  20,838. 
Elizabeth  was  settled  in  1655,  and  was  for  a  long  time  the  capital 
and  chief  town  of  the  Colony  and  State.  It  has  always  been  noted  as 
one  of  the  most  cultivated  towns  in  the  Union. 

C  AMD  EN, 

The  sixth  city  of  New  Jersey,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Delaware  River,  in  Camden  county,  immediately  opposite  the  city 
of  Philadelphia,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  means  of  4  steam  fer- 
ries. It  is  32  miles  south-southwest  of  Trenton.  It  is  located  in  a 
large  plain,  and  is 'regularly  laid  off.'  It  is  well  built,  and  contains 
some  handsome  residences  and  commercial  buildings.  It  owes  its 
importance  to  its  powerful  neighbor,  Philadelphia.  It  contains  some 
extensive  manufacturing  establishments,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Camden  and  Amboy,  New  Jersey  Southern,  and  West  Jersey  rail- 
ways. It  is  lighted  with  gas ;  is  supplied  with  water ;  and  has  a  steam 
fire  department,  and  an  effective  police  force.  Its  public  schools  are 
good  and  numerous,  and  it  contains  one  or  two  literary  institutions. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council,  chosen  by  the  people.  In 
1870,  the  population  was  20,045. 

The  city  was  incorporated  in  1831. 

The  other  important  towns  of  the  State  are  New  Brunswick,  on  the 
Raritan  River;  Rah  way,  between  New  Brunswick  and  Elizabeth; 
Burlington,  on  the  Delaware  River,  below  Trenton  ;  and  Orange,  near 


NEW   JERSEY. 


423 


Newark.  Long  Branch,  in  Monmouth  county,  and  Atlantic  City,  in 
Atlantic  county,  on  the  sea  shore,  and  Cape  May,  in  Cape  May 
county,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Delaware  Bay,  are  among  the  most 
fashionable  watering  places  in  the  Union. 

THE   BATTLE   OF    TREXTOX. 

The  summer  and  fall  of  1776  was  the  most  gloomy  period  of  the  American 
revolution.  General  Washington  had  been  obliged  to  retreat  from  Long  Island  to 
New  York,  thence  over  the  Hudson  to  New  Jersey,  and  through  New  Jersey  to 
Pennsylvania,  vigorously  pursued  by  an  enemy  flushed  with  a  series  of  success. 
The  retreat  through  New  Jersey  was  attended  with  circumstances  of  a  painful 
and  trying  nature.  Washington's  army,  which  had  consisted  of  80,000  men, 
was  now  diminished  to  scarcely  3000,  and  these  were  without  supplies,  without 
pay,  and  many  of  them  without  shoes  or  comfortable  clothing.  Their  footsteps 
were  stained  with  blood  as  they  fled  before  the  enemy.  The  affairs  of  the  Ame- 
ricans seemed  in  such  a  desperate  condition,  that  those  who  had  been  most  con- 
Iklent  of  success,  began  despairingly  to  give  up  all  for  lost.  Many  Americans 
joined  the  British,  and  took  protections  from  them.  In  this  season  of  general 
despondency,  the  American  Congress  recommended  to  each  of  the  States  to 
observe  "a  day  of  solemn  fasting  and  humiliation  before  God." 

General  Washington  saw  the  necessity  of  making  a  desperate  effort  for  the  sal- 
vation of  his  country.  On  the  night  of  the  23th  of  December,  1776,  the  American 
army  recrossed  the  Delaware,  which  was  filled  with  pieces  of  floating  ice,  and 
marched  to  attack  a  division  of  Hessians,  who  had  advanced  to  Trenton.  The 
sun  had  just  risen,  as  the  tents  of  the  enemy  appeared  in  sight.  No  time  was 
to  be  lost — Washington,  rising  en  his  stirrups,  waved  his  sword  towards  the  hos- 
tile army,  and  exclaimed,  "  There,  my  brave  friends,  are  the  enemies  of  your 
country  f  and  now  all  I  have  to  ask  of  you  is,  to  remember  what  you  are  about  to 
fiyhtforf  March!" 

The  troops,  animated  by  their  commander,  pressed  on  to  the  charge  ;  the  Hes- 
sians were  taken  by  surprise,  and  the  contest  was  soon  decided  ;  about  1000  were 
taken  prisoners,  and  40  killed,  among  whom  was  their  commander,  (a  German 
officer,)  Colonel  Rahl. 

In  this  important  expedition,  Washington  divided  his  troops  into  three  parts, 


424  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Which  were  to  assemble  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware,  on  the  night  of  the  25th 
of  December.  One  of  these  divisions,  led  by  General  Irvine,  was  directed  to  cross 
the  Delaware  at  the  Trenton  ferry,  and  secure  the  bridge  below  the  town,  so  as 
to  prevent  the  escape  of  any  part  of  the  enemy  by  that  road.  Another  division, 
led  by  General  Cadwallader,  was  to  cross  over  at  Bristol,  and  carry  the  post  at 
Burlington.  The  third,  which  was  the  principal  division,  and  consisted  of  about 
2400  Continental  troops,  commanded  by  General  Washington  in  person,  was  to 
cross  at  M'Konkey's  ferry,  about  nine  miles  above  Trenton,  and  to  march 
against  the  enemy  posted  at  that  town.  The  night  fixed  on  for  the  enter- 
prise was  severly  cold.  A  storm  of  snow,  mingled  with  hail  and  rain,  fell  in 
great  quantities ;  and  so  much  ice  was  made  in  the  river,  that  the  artiller}'  could 
not  be  got  over  until  three  o'clock ;  and  before  the  troops  could  take  up  their 
line  of  march  it  was  nearly  four.  The  general,  who  had  hoped  to  throw  them 
all  over  by  twelve  o'clock,  now  despaired  of  surprising  the  town  ;  but  knowing 
that  he  could  not  repass  the  river  without  being  discovered  and  harassed,  he  de- 
termined, at  all  events,  to  push  forward.  He  accordingly  formed  his  detachment 
into  two  divisions,  one  of  which  was  to  march  by  the  lower  or  river  road,  the 
other,  by  the  upper  or  Pennington  road:  As  the  distance  to  Trenton  by  these 
two  roads  was  nearly  the  same,  the  general,  supposing  that  his  two  divisions 
would  arrive  at  the  place  of  destination  about  the  same  time,  ordered  each  of 
them,  immediately  on  forcing  the  outguards,  to  push  directly  into  the  town,  that 
they  might  charge  the  enemy  before  they  had  time  to  form.  The  upper  division, 
accompanied  by  the  general  himself,  arrived  at  the  enemy's  advanced  post  ex- 
actly at  eight  o'clock,  and  immediately  drove  in  the  outguards.  in  three  min- 
utes, a  firing  from  the  division  that  had  taken  the  river  road,  gave  notice  to  the 
general  of  its  arrival.  Colonel  Rahl,  a  very  gallant  Hessian  officer,  who  com- 
manded in  Trenton,  soon  formed  his  main  body,  to  meet  the  assailants ;  but  at 
the  commencement  of  the  action  he  received  a  mortal  wound.  His  troops,  at 
once  confused  and  hard  pressed,  and  having  already  lost  their  artillery,  attempted 
to  file  off  by  a  road  on  the  right,  leading  to  Princeton  ;  but  General  Washington 
perceiving  their  intention,  threw  a  body  of  troops  in  their  front,  which  inter- 
cepted and  assailed  them.  Finding  themselves  surrounded,  they  laid  down 
their  arms.  About  20  of  the  enemy  were  killed  ;  and  909,  including  officers, 
surrendered  themselves  prisoners  of  war.  The  number  of  prisoners  was  soon 
increased  to  about  1000,  by  the  additional  capture  of  those  who  had  concealed 
themselves  in  houses.  Six  field  pieces,  and  a  1000  stand  of  small  'arms,  were 
also  taken.  Of  the  Americans,  two  privates  only  were  killed  ;  two  were  frozen 
to  death  ;  one  officer  and  three  or  four  privates  were  wounded.  General  Irvine 
being  prevented  by  the  ice  from  crossing  the  Delaware,  the  lower  road  toward 
Bordentown  remained  open :  and  about  500  of  the  enemy,  stationed  in  the  lower 
end  of  Trenton,  crossing  over  the  bridge  in  the  commencement  of  the  action, 
marched  clown  the  river  to  Bordentown.  General  Cadwallader  was  prevented 
by  the  same  cause  from  attacking  the  post  at  Burlington.  This  well-judged  and 
successful  enterprise,  revived  the  depressed  spirits  of  the  colonists,  and  produced 
an  immediate  and  happy  effect  in  recruiting  the  American  army. 

THE  MURDER  OF  THE  REV.  JAMES  CALDWELL. 

The  next  summer,  in  June,  Knyphausen  made   his  sudden  and  apparently 
objectless  inroad  into  New  Jersey.     On  the  night  of  the  24th,  Mr.  Caldwell  slept 


NEW    JERSEY.  425 

in  his  own  house,  but  was  wakened  early  in  the  morning  by  the  news  of  the  ap- 
proach of  the  enemy.  Mounting  his  horse  in  haste,  he  started  for  headquarters 
with  the  information.  He  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  however,  when 
he  began  to  have  serious  fears  for  his  wife  and  family  that  he  had  left  behind. 
The  former,  when  she  bade  him  good-bye,  told  him  that  she  had  no  apprehen- 
sions for  her  own  safety,  for  the  enemy,  she  said,  would  not  harm  her  and  her 
little  children.  He  had  often  left  them  in  a  similar  way  before,  and  always  found 
them  safe  on  his  return,  but  now  he  was  oppressed  with  unusual  anxiety,  and, 
after  striving  in  vain  to  shake  it  off,  turned  his  horse  and  galloped  back.  As  he 
rode  up  to  the  door,  his  wife  came  out  to  inquire  what  he  wanted.  He  told  her 
t'.iat  he  wished  her  and  the  children  to  accompany  him  to  camp,  for  he  felt  very 
uneasy  about  leaving  them  behind.  But  she,  knowing  they  would  encumber  his 
movements,  smiled  at  his  fears,  saying  there  was  no  danger  at  all,  and  declined 
entirely  to  leave  the  house.  In  the  meantime  she  went  in  and  brought  from  the 
breakfast  table  a  warm  cup  of  coffee.  While  he  sat  on  his  horse  drinking  it,  the 
enemy  came  in  sight.  Handing  back  the  cup,  and  flinging  her  a  hasty  farewell, 
and  commending  her  to  the  care  and  mercy  of  the  God  in  whom  they  both  trusted, 
he  struck  his  spurs  into  his  horse  and  dashed  away. 

He  had  not  been  gone  long  before  she  had  cause  to  regret  that  she  had  not 
yielded  to  his  entreaties,  for  columns  of  smoke  rising  in  the  distance — the  screams 
of  terrified  women  and  children  running  through  the  streets,  told  her  that  the 
enemy  was  on  a  raid,  and  murder  and  devastation  were  marking  their  passage. 
She  saw  at  once  that  she  was  surrounded  with  deadly  perils,  but  calm  as  became 
the  wife  of  a  hero  as  well  as  clergyman,  she  took  her  infant  and  retired  into  a 
private  room  to  commit  herself  and  children  in  prayer  to  God.  Arising  from  her 
devotions,  she  sat  down  upon  the  bed,  and  was  pondering  on  her  desolate  condi- 
tion, when  the  maid,  who  had  accompanied  her  with  the  other  children,  stepped 
to  the  window  to  look  out.  As  she  did  so,  she  saw  a  "  red  coat "  jump  over  the 
fence  into  the  yard.  Alarmed,  she  turned  quickly  and  told  Mrs.  Caidwell.  The 
latter  knew  at  once  that  evil  was  intended  her,  and  arose  from  the  bed  either  to 
watch  the  man's  actions  or  to  pass  out  of  the.  room,  when  the  villain  caught  a 
glimpse  of  her  through  the  window.  He  knew  her  at  a  glance,  and,  having 
come  on  purpose  to  kill  her,  he  raised  his  musket  and  fired  at  her  through  the 
window,  when  she  fell  amid  her  terrified  children,  pierced  by  two  balls.  In  the 
midst  of  the  alarm  and  confusion  that  followed,  the  torch  was  applied  to  the 
house,  and  soon  the  little  parsonage  was  wrapped  in  flames.  It  was  with  great 
difficulty  that  some  of  the  neighbors,  whom  the  maid  informed  of  the  murder, 
were  enabled  to  drag  the  body  out  of  the  burning  building.  But,  having  ac- 
complished this,  they  were  compelled  to  flee,  leaving  it  exposed  in  the  hot  sun 
in  the  public  street,  where  it  lay  for  hours  with  no  one  humane  enough  to  throw 
a  covering  over  the  pale  and  ghastly  face.  At  length  some  of  her  friends  ob- 
tained permission  from  the  enemy  to  remove  it  into  the  only  house  left  standing 
near  by. 

Mr.  Caidwell  was  at  the  "Short  Hills,"  with  the  army,  while  this  murderous 
scene  was  being  enacted  at  his  quiet  home.  That  evening  passing  by  chance  two 
soldiers  who  were  talking  in  whispers,  he  heard  the  name  of  "Mrs.  Caidwell" 
repeated  two  or  three  times.  Suspecting  at  once  that  something  was  wrong,  he 
asked  them  what  they  were  talking  about — if  anything  had  happened  to  Mrs. 
Caidwell.  They  at  first  hesitated  to  reply,  unwilling  to  break  to  him  the  painful 
\ntelligence,  but  he  besought  them  so  earnestly  to  let  him  know  the  worst  that 


426  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

they  finally  told  him  all.  The  good  man  staggered  like  a  smitten  ox  under  tho 
sudden  blow,  and  turned  pale  as  death.  Rallying,  however,  he  murmured  a 
broken  prayer  and  turned  away  to  weep  alone.  That  was  a  painful  night  to  the 
noble  patriot,  for  not  only  did  he  mourn  deeply  over  the  tragical  end  of  his  wife, 
whom  he  loved  tenderly,  but  he  was  filled  with  apprehension  respecting  his  or- 
phaned children,  one  of  whom  was  an  infant — now  in  possession  of  the  enemy. 
In  the  morning  he  procured  a  flag  of  truce  and  went  over  to  "  Connecticut 
Farms."  The  quiet  little  village  was  a  heap  of  smoking  ruins,  with  only  here 
and  there  a  solitary  building  standing  as  monuments  to  mark  the  desolation.  In 
one  of  these  lay  the  lifeless  body  of  his  wife,  and  in  an  adjoining  apartment  were 
grouped  his  weeping  children. 

The  enemy,  after  burning  Connecticut  Farms,  kept  on  towards  Springfield, 
with  the  intention  of  committing  the  same  barbarous  cruelties  there.  Mr.  CaKl- 
well,  after  seeing  his  wife  buried  and  his  children  placed  in  the  care  of  one  of  his 
parishioners,  hastened  forward  to  join  the  army.  At  Springfield,  a  sharp  en- 
gagement took  place  between  the  enemy  and  the  American  troops,  and  though 
the  former  were  compelled  to  beat  a  hasty  retreat,  it  was  not  till  they  had  burned 
the  village  to  the  ground.  Mr.  Caldwell  was  in  the  hottest  of  the  fight,  and  see- 
ing the  fire  of  one  of  the  companies  slackening  for  want  of  wadding,  he  galloped 
to  the  Presbyterian  meeting  house  near  by,  and,  rushing  in,  ran  from  pew  to 
pew,  filling  his  arms  with  hymn  books.  Hastening  back  with  these  into  the 
battle,  he  scattered  them  about  in  every  direction,  saying,  as  he  pitched  one  here 
and  another  there,  "Now,  put  Watts  into  them,  boys."  With  a  laugh  and  a 
cheer,  they  pulled  out  the  leaves,  and  ramming  home  the  charges  did  give  the 
British  Watts  with  a  will. 

The  next  year  this  patriotic,  gifted  man  met  the  tragical  fate  of  his  wife,  and 
sealed  his  devotion  to  his  country  with  his  blood. 

New  Jersey  remained  comparatively  tranquil  after  the  raid  of  Knyphausen, 
and  flags  of  truce  were  constantly  passing  to  and  fro  to  New  York,  and  only  sol- 
diers enough  were  left  in  the  State  to  act  as  sentinels  at  main  points.  At  this 
time  there  lived  in  New  York  a -family  by  the  name  of  Murray,  who  had  rela- 
tives residing  in  Elizabethtown,  and  who  were  much  beloved  by  the  people  in 
the  vicinity  for  their  kindness  to  Jersey  prisoners  confined  in  the  city.  One  of 
the  family,  Miss  Murray,  wishing  to  visit  Elizabethtown,  came  to  Elizabethtown 
Point  on  the  24th  of  Novemtie^  under  a  flag  of  truce.  Mr.  Caldwell  went  down 
in  a  carriage  to  meet  heryland  accompany  her  to  the  town.  The  details  of  the 
events  that  followed,  I  will  let  Dr.  Murray  tell  in  his  own  language.  "A  sentry 
was  kept  up  at  that  time  at  the  fort.  Tying  his  horse  outside  the  sentinel,  Mr. 
Caldwell  proceeded  to  the  wharf,  and  taking  with  him  Miss  Murray,  placed  her 
in  his  carriage,  and  then  returned  to  the  boat  for  a  small  bundle  that  belonged  to 
JierT  Thus  he  passed  three  times  the  man  who  was  keeping  guard.  With  a 
small  package  he  was  returning  a  second  time  to  his  carriage,  when  the  sentinel 
ordered  him  to  stop,  thinking,  probably,  that  there  was  something  contraband  in 
the  bundle.  He  replied  that  the  bundle  belonged  to  the  young  lady  in  his  car- 
riage. The  sentinel  said  that  it  must  be  examined.  Mr.  Caldwell  turned  quickly 
about  to  carry  it  back  to  the  boat,  that  it  might  be  opened  there,  when  the  fatal 
ball  struck  him.  The  captain  of  the  guard,  hearing  the  report  of  a  gun,  looked 
around,  and  saw  Mr.  Caldwell  staggering  before  him.  He  ran  and  caught  him 
in  his  arms  and  laid  him  on  the  ground,  and  without  speaking  a  word  he  almost 
instantly  expired,  the  ball  having  passed  through  his  heart. 


NEW   JERSEY.  427 

"  The  man  who  shot  him  was  James  Morgan,  belonging  to  the  Jersey  militia—' 
an  Irishman  by  birth,  and  a  man  of  the  most  debased  and  profligate  character. 
He  was  always  drunk  when  he  could  be  ;  and  liquor  turned  him  into  a  savage. 
His  family  resided  near  a  well  in  Elizabethtown,  into  which  a  child  of  his  fell  one 
day  and  was  drowned.  When  he  returned,  he  found  his  child  dead,  and  taking 
it  by  the  arms  he  beat  the  broken-hearted  mother  with  the  dead  body  of  her  own 
child  until  her  cries  brought  some  of  the  neighbors  to  her  rescue." 

Whether  Morgan  was  on  duty  as  a  sentinel  when  he  shot  Caldwell  is  at  least 
questionable.  It  is  said  that  on  his  trial  it  was  proved  that  he  had  just  been  re- 
lieved. Different  motives  are  assigned  for  the  murder.  Some  say  that  Morgan 
was  angry  because  he  had  not  received  his  regular  wages,  and,  inasmuch  as 
Caldwell  was  commissary,  supposed  "he  was  responsible  for  the  neglect;" 
others,  again,  say  that  he  was  bribed  by  the  British,  or  Tories.  Whatever  the 
motives  might  have  been  that  influenced  him,  he  was,  after  a  fair  trial,  convicted 
of  murder,  and  hung  the  next  January.  The  body  of  Mr.  Caldwell  was  placed 
on  some  straw  in  the  bottom  of  a  wagon,  and  taken  up  to  town,  and  the  next 
Tuesday  buried. 

A   MUTINY    IN    THE    CONTINENTAL  ARMY. 

The  situation  of  General  Washington  was  often,  during  the  war,  embarrassing, 
for  want  of  proper  supplies  for  the  army.  It  was  peculiarly  so  while  at  Morris- 
town,  in  1780,  where  he  had  encamped  during  the  winter.  The  cold  was  un- 
commonly severe,  and  the  army  suffered  extremely.  The  following  account  of 
the  state  of  the  American  army  is  taken  from  "Grimshaw's  History  of  the  United 
States:  " 

"  The  distress  suffered  by  the  American  army  did  not  arrive  at  its  highest  pitch 
until  the  present  season.  The  officers  of  the  Jersey  line  now  addressed  a  memo- 
rial to  their  State  Legislature,  complaining,  that  four  months'  pay  for  a  private 
would  not  procure  for  his  family  a  single  bushel  of  wheat ;  that  the  pay  of  a 
colonel  would  not  purchase  oats  for  his  horse  ;  and  that  a  common  laborer  re- 
ceived four  times  as  much  as  an  American  officer.  They  urged,  that  unless  an 
immediate  remedy  was  provided,  the  total  dissolution  of  their  line  was  inevitable; 
and  concluded  by  saying,  that  their  pay  should  be  realized,  either  by  Mexican 
dollars,  or  something  equivalent.  Nor  was  the  insufficiency  of  their  support  the 
only  motive  to  complaint.  Other  causes  of  discontent  prevailed.  The  original 
idea  of  a  continental  army,  to  be  raised,  paid,  and  regulated  upon  an  equal  and 
uniform  principle,  had  been,  in  a  great  measure,  exchanged  for  that  of  State  es- 
tablishments ;  a  pernicious  measure,  partly  originating  from  necessity,  because 
State  credit  was  not  quite  so  much  depreciated  as  continental.  Some  States, 
from  their  superior  ability,  furnished  their  troops  not  only  with  clothing,  but 
with  many  articles  of  convenience.  Others  supplied  them  with  mere  necessaries  ; 
whilst  a  few,  from  their  particular  situation,  could  give  little  or  perhaps  nothing. 
The  officers  and  men,  in  a  routine  of  duty,  daily  intermixed  and  made  compari- 
sons. Those  who  fared  worse  than  others  were  dissatisfied  with  a  service  that 
allowed  such  injurious  distinctions.  Mutiny  began  to  spread,  and  at  length 
broke  out  among  the  soldiers  at  Fort  Schuyler.  Thirty-one  privates  of  the  gar- 
rison went  off  in  a  body.  They  were  overtaken,  and  13  of  their  number  instantly 
killed.  About  the  same  time,  two  regiments  of  Connecticut  troops  mutinied,  and 
got  under  arms,  determined  to  return  home,  or  gain  subsistence  by  the  bayonet. 


428  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Their  officers  reasoned  with  them,  and  used  every  argument  that  could  interest 
their  passions  or  their  pride.  They  at  first  answered,  'Our  sufferings  arc  too 
great,  we  want  present  relief;'  but  military  feelings  were,  in  the  end,  trium- 
phant ;  after  much  expostulation,  they  returned  to  the  encampment. 

"It  is  natural  to  suppose  that  the  British  commander  would  not  lose  so  favor- 
able an  opportunity  of  severing  the  discontented  from  their  companions,  and 
attracting  them  to  his  own  standard.  He  circulated  a  printed  paper  in  the  Ameri- 
can camp ;  tending  to  heighten  the  disorders  by  exaggeration,  and  create  desertion 
by  promises  of  bounty  and  caresses.  But,  so  great  was  the  firmness  of  the  sol- 
diery, and  so  strong  their  attachment  to  their  country,  that  on  the  arrival  of  only 
a  scanty  supply  of  meat,  for  their  immediate  subsistence,  military  duty  was 
cheerfully  performed,  and  the  rolls  were  seldom  dishonored  by  desertion. 

"The  necessities  of  the  American  army  grew  so  pressing  that  Washington  was 
constrained  to  call  on  the  magistrates  of  the  adjacent  counties  for  specified  quan- 
tities of  provisions,  to  be  supplied  in  a  given  number  of  days  ;  and  was  compelled 
even  to  send  out  detachments  to  collect  subsistence  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet. 
Even  this  expedient  at  length  failed  ;  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  army 
being  soon  exhausted.  His  situation  was  painfully  embarrassing.  The  army 
looked  to  him  for  provisions  ;  the  inhabitants  for  protection.  To  supply  the  one, 
and  not  offend  the  other,  seemed  impossible.  To  preserve  order  and  subordina- 
tion, in  an  army  of  republicans,  even  when  well  fed,  regularly  paid,'  and  com- 
fortably clothed,  is  not  an  easy  task  ;  but  to  retain  them  in  service,  and  subject 
them  to  the  rules  of  discipline,  when  wanting  not  only  the  comforts  but  often 
the  necessaries  of  life,  requires  such  address  and  abilities  as  are  rarely  found  in 
human  nature.  These  were,  however,  combined  in  Washington.  lie  not  only 
kept  his  army  in  the  field,  but  opposed  those  difficulties  with  so  much  discretion 
as  to  command  the  approbation  of  both  soldiers  and  people. 

"  To  obviate  these  evils,  Congress  sent  a  committee  of  its  own  members  to  the 
encampment  of  the  main  army.  They  confirmed  the  representations  previously 
made  of  the  distresses  and  the  disorders  arising  from  commissarial  mismanage- 
ment, which  everywhere  prevailed.  In  particular,  they  stated  that  the  main 
army  was  unpaid  for  five  months  ;  that  it  seldom  had  more  than  six  days'  pro- 
vision in  advance ;  and  was  on  different  occasions,  for  several  successive  clays, 
without  meat ;  that  the  horses  were  destitute  of  forage  ;  that  the  medical  depart- 
ment had  no  sugar,  tea,  chocolate,  wine,  or  spirituous  liquors  of  any  kind  ;  that 
every  department  was  without  money  and  without  credit ;  and  that  the  patience 
of  the  soldiers,  worn  down  by  the  pressure  of  complicated  sufferings,  was  on  the 
point  of  being  exhausted/ 

"Misfortunes,  from  every  quarter,  were  at  this  time  pouring  in  upon  the 
United  States.  But  they  seemed  to  rise  in  the  midst  of  their  distresses,  and  gain 
strength  from  the  pressure  of  calamities.  When  Congress  could  obtain  neither 
money  nor  credit  for  the  subsistence  of  their  army,  the  inhabitants  of  Philadelphia 
gave  $300,000  to  procure  a  supply  of  necessary  provisions  for  the  suffering 
troops ;  and  the  ladies  of  that  city,  at  the  same  time,  contributed  largely  to  their 
immediate  relief.  Their  example  was  generally  followed.  The  patriotic  flame 
which  blazed  forth  in  the  beginning  of  the  war  was  rekindled.  The  different 
States  were  ardently  excited  ;  and  it  was  arranged  that  the  regular  army  should 
be  raised  to  35,000  effective  men." 


PENNSYLVANIA. 

Area, 46,000  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1SGO 2,906,115 

Population  in  1870, .3,521,951 

THE  State  of  Pennsylvania,  one  of  the  original  members  of  the 
Union,  lies  between  39°  43'  and  42°  15'  N.  latitude,  and  between 
74°  42'  and  80°  35'  W.  longitude.  Its  extreme  length  is  about  310 
miles,  and  its  extreme  width,  from  north  to  south,  about  160  miles. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  New  York  and  Lake  Erie,  on  the  east 
by  New  York  and  New  Jersey,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Delaware  River,  on  the  south  by  Delaware,  Maryland,  and  West 
Virginia,  and  on  the  west  by  West  Virginia  and  Ohio. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

"No  State  in  the  Union  presents  a  greater  variety  of  surface  than 
Pennsylvania.  Though  they  do  not  rise  to  any  great  elevation  (sel- 
dom above  2000  feet),  its  mountains  spread  over  about  one-fourth  of 
the  State  in  parallel  ridges,  in  a  direction  generally  from  northeast  to 
southwest,  and  occupy  the  southern,  central,  and  eastern  counties. 
Though  all  forming  parts  of  the  great  Appalachian  chain,  they  are 
known  by  various  local  appellations.  Commencing  below  Easton, 
on  the  Delaware,  we  have  the  South  Mountain ;  then  in  order,  pro- 
ceeding west  or  northwest,  the  Blue  or  Kittatinny  Mountains  (both 
entering  the  State  from  New  Jersey,  and  passing  southwest  into 
Maryland),  and  the  Broad  Mountain,  which  lies  south  of  the  North 
Branch  of  the  Susquehanna.  We  now  cross  the  river  just  mentioned, 
but  still  have  with  us  the  Broad  Mountain,  under  the  name  of  the 
Tuscarora;  passing  which,  we  come  upon  another  ridge,  lying  mostly 

429 


430  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

south  of  the  Juniata  River,  known  as  Sideling  Hill;  which  is  suc- 
ceeded in  turn  by  the  Alleghany  Mountains  proper,  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  Atlantic  slope  and  the  Mississippi  Valley.  De- 
scending the  very  gradual  Ohio  slope,  we  cross  two  inferior  but  well- 
defined  chains,  known  as  Laurel  and  Chestnut  Ridges.  As  before 
stated,  these  mountains  do  not  rise  too,  great  height;  the  South  Moun- 
tain is  within  1000,  and  the  Blue  Mountain  within  1500  feet.  Broad 
Mountain  is  said  to  rise  higher  above  its  immediate  base  than  the 
Alleghany  range,  but  to  be  inferior  to  them  in  elevation  above  the 
soa.  These  different  ridges  are  separated  by  valleys,  now  contracted 
within  narrow  limits,  and  now  spreading  out  to  a  width  of  from  15 
to  30  miles.  The  entire  belt  in  Pennsylvania  spreads  over  a  space 
of  200  miles — the  greatest  breadth  the  Alleghany  range  attains  in  its 
whole  course  from  Maine  to  Alabama.  In  the  northern  part  of  the 
State  the  mountains  become  high  and  rugged  hills ;  the  west  is  also 
hilly,  and  the  southeast  and  northwest  moderately  so,  but  occasionally 
level.  The  rivers  of  the  western  part  of  the  State,  cutting  their  way 
through  the  table-land,  present  sometimes  precipitous  shores  of  several 
hundred  feet  in  height,  and  many  valleys  bear  evident  marks  of  their 
having  been  formed  by  running  water."  * 

The  Delaware  River  washes  the  eastern  shore  of  the  State,  and  fur- 
nishes the  principal  means  of  access  to  the  sea.  The  city  of  Philadel- 
phia, the  second  in  size  in  the  Union,  is  situated  on  this  stream,  about 
40  miles  from  its  entrance  into  Delaware  Bay. 

The  Susquehanna  is  the  principal  river  of  the  State.  It  is  formed 
by  two  branches,  the  eastern  rising  in  Otsego  Lake,  in  central  New 
York,  and  the  western  in  western  Pennsylvania.  They  unite  and 
form  the  main  stream  at  Northumberland,  GO  miles  above  Harris- 
burg.  Then  flowing  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  it  enters  the  State 
of  Maryland,  and  empties  into  Chesapeake  Bay.  The  East,  which  is 
also  called  the  North,  Branch  is  250  miles  long,  and  the  West  Branch 
200  miles.  The  length  of  the  main  stream  is  about  150  miles.  They 
all  flow  through  a  very  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  which  is  also 
rich  in  mineral  resources.  A  series  of  canals  extends  from  the  mouth 
of  the  river  to  Northumberland,  and  the  navigation  of  its  branches  is 
improved  in  several  places.  The  principal  tributary  of  the  Susque- 
hanna is  the  Juniata,  which  enters  it  above  Harrisburg,  and  which  is 
famous  for  its  beautiful  and  picturesque  scenery. 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1453. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


431 


VIEW   ON   THE   JUNIATA  RIVER. 

The  Alleghany  River  is  the  principal  stream  in  the  western  part  of 
the  State.  It  rises  in  Potter  county,  and  flows  northward  into  New 
York,  after  which  it  sweeps  back  into  Pennsylvania,  and  pursuing  a 
southwesterly  course,  unites  at  Pittsburg  with  the  Monongahela  (which 
rises  in  West  Virginia  and  flows  northward  to  Pittsburg),  and  forms 
the  Ohio.  It  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  for  about  200  miles 
above  Pittsburg.  The  Ohio  lies  in  this  State  for  the  first  fifty  miles 
of  its  course. 

The  SchuylTdll  is  a  beautiful  river  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State. 
It  empties  into  the  Delaware  at  Philadelphia,  and  supplies  that  city 
with  fresh  water.  The  Lehigh  flows  into  the  Delaware  at  Easton. 

Lake  Erie,  already  described  in  another  chapter,  is  the  only  lake 
lying  in  the  State.  It  washes  the  northwest  part  of  Pennsylvania  for 
about  50  miles. 

MINERALS. 

"Pennsylvania  stands  first  among  the  United  States  in  the  abun- 
dance of  her  coal  and  iron.  Though  not  possessing  a  great  variety 


432 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SUiiUYLKILL   ABOVE   PHILADELPHIA. 


of  rare  minerals,  and  none  of  the  precious  metals,  she  has  those  which 
have  made  England  the  wealthiest  and  most  powerful  nation  on  the 
globe,  while  Spain  and  Portugal,  with  their  gold,  silver,  and  diamond 
mines,  have  become  poor  in  national  wealth,  and  have  sunk  to  a  low 
degree  of  political  influence.  Owing  no  doubt  to  her  homely,  but 
useful  minerals,  Pennsylvania  has  advanced,  between  1840  and  1850, 
in  a  greater  ratio  in  population  than  even  the  Empire  State  (New 
York),  or  that  vigorous  and  youthful  giant  of  the  West,  Ohio.  The 
vast  anthracite  coal  fields  of  Pennsylvania  lie  mostly  between  the  Dela- 
ware and  Susquehanna  rivers,  about  the  head-  waters  of  the  Lehigh, 
Schuylkill,  and  Lackawana.  In  1854  this  region  sent  to  market, 
5,919,555  tons  of  coal  ;  in  1864,  the  product  had  increased  to  10,564,- 
926.  Nearly  half  of  this  came  from  Schuylkill  county.  At  Bloss- 
burg,  in  Tioga  county,  and  in  Clinton  county,  are  mines  of  bituminous 
coal,  said  to  be  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  Newcastle  coal  of  Eng- 
land ;  while  the  region  around  Pitteburg,  the  commencement  of  the 
coal  field  of  the  Mississippi  Valley,  abounds  in  coal  of  the  same  kind, 
but  little  inferior  in  purity.  Cannel  coal  of  fine  quality  is  found  in 
Beaver  county.  The  bituminous  coal  mined  in  western  Pennsylvania, 
in  1864,  was  estimated  at  3,000,000  tons.  Petroleum  abounds  in 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


433 


MOUNT   PISGAII   AND   THE   COAL   REGION. 

the  western  part  of  the  State.  The  best  evidences  of  the  quantity  and 
excellence  of  the  iron  of  Pennsylvania  is  the  fact,  according  to  the 
census  report  of  1850,  that  nearly  half  of  the  pig,  cast,  and  wrought 
iron  manufactured  in  the  Union  was  from  her  forges  and  furnaces. 
This  State  also  abounds  in  lime,  marble,  slate,  and  stones  suitable  for 
building.  Marble  is  particularly  abundant  in  Chester  and  Mont- 
gomery counties.  The  most  important  copper  mines  in  Pennsylvania 
are  in  the  same  counties.  Zinc  is  mined  in  the  vicinity  of  Bethlehem, 
plumbago  in  Bucks  county,  and  lead  in  Chester  and  Montgomery 
counties.  A  bed  of  this  mineral,  of  great  richness,  is  reported  to  have 
been  discovered  recently  in  Blair  county.  Chromium  occurs  in  Ches- 
ter and  Lancaster  counties.  Scattered  over  the  State  are  some  of  the 
following  minerals:  titanium,  plumbago,  magnetic  iron  ore,  iron 
pyrites,  magnesia,  talc,  asbestos,  barytes,  zircon,  tourmalin,  marl,  etc. 
Salt  springs  exist  on  the  Monongahela,  Kiskeminitas,  and  Beaver 
rivers,  and  in  other  parts  of  the  State.  Nearly  12,000,000  bushels 
of  salt  were  manufactured  here  in  18GO.  Nitre  or  saltpetre  has  re- 
cently been  discovered  in  an  extensive  deposit,  and  of  great  richness, 
28 


434  THE     GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

in  the  central  part  of  the  State.  There  are  several  medicinal  springs, 
generally  chalybeate,  the  most  noted  of  which  are  Bedford,  in  the 
county  of  the  same  name;  York,  in  Adams  county;  Doubling  Gap, 
in  Cumberland;  Yellow  Springs,  in  Chester;  and  Ephrata,  in  Lan- 
caster county."  * 

CLIMATE. 

The  southern  and  eastern  portions  of  Pennsylvania  have  a  milder 
climate  than  the  western  part.  In  the  latter,  the  winters  are  long 
and  severe.  The  summers  are  very  hot  all  over  the  State,  and  all 
parts  are  liable  to  sudden  changes  from  heat  to  cold.  The  spring 
comes  early  in  the  southern  counties,  but  is  late  in  the  others.  As  a 
whole  the  State  is  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  Union. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

As  a  general  rule  the  soil  of  the  State  is  good.  That  of  the  lime- 
stone regions,  and  along  the  river  valleys  is  excellent,  and  there  are 
some  fine  lands  in  the  mountain  valleys.  Pennsylvania  is  largely 
engaged  in  agriculture,  being  one .  of  the  first  States  in  the  Union, 
with  respect  to  its  productions.  The  system  of  farming  is  enlightened 
and  progressive,  and  the  people  are  amongst  the  most  industrious  in 
the  world. 

In  1870  there  were  11,515,965  acres  of  improved  land  in  the  State, 
and  5,740,864  acres  of  unimproved  land.  The  remainder  of  the  agri- 
cultural wealth  of  the  State  for  the  same  year  was  as  follows : 

Cash  value  of  farms, $1,043,481,582 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery,  $35,658,196 

Number  of  horses, 460,339 

milch  cows,      . 706,437 

working  oxen, 30,048 

sheep, 1,794,301 

"            swine,,, 867,548 

Value  of  all  live  stock,      ........  $115,647,075 

Bushels  of  wneat, 19,672,967 

rye, 3,577,641 

Indian  com, 34,702,006 

oats, 36,478,585 

barley, 529,562 

Irish  potatoes, 12,889,367 

buckwheat, 2,532,173 

Tons  of  hay, ,  2,848,219 


Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1454. 


PENNSYLVANIA.  435 

Pounds  of  maple  sugar, 1,545,917 

"           tobacco, 3,467,530 

"          beeswax  and  honey,  ....!.  824,022 

wool, 6,561,722 

butter, 60,834,644 

cheese, 1,145,209 

Gallons  of  milk  sold, 14,411,729 

Value  of  orchard  products,  .......  $4,208,094 

"        market  garden  products,     .     .     .     .  $1,810,016 

slaughtered  animals, $28,412,903 

"        forest  products, $2,570,370 

COMMERCE. 

The  returns  of  the  port  of  Philadelphia  do  not  fairly  exhibit  the 
foreign 'trade  of  this  State,  since  a  large  portion  of  its  commerce  passes 
through  the  port  of  New  York.  The  railroads  and  canals  of  the 
State  transport  immense  quantities  of  freight  every  year,  and  the  trade 
with  the  South  and  West,  by  the  Ohio  River,  is  enormous.  The  dis- 
covery of  petroleum  has  greatly  increased  the  foreign  and  domestic 
trades  of  the  State.  The  export  of  this  article  from  Philadelphia  in 
1868  was  40,505,620  gallons.  In  the  same  year  the  petroleum  trade 
of  Pittsburg  amounted  to  about  §13,000,000.  In  1860  the  State  pro- 
duced $21,266,906  worth  of  coal,  which  amount  has  been  greatly 
increased  since  then.  In  1863,  the  tonnage  of  the  State  was  300,741, 
of  which  94,305  was  steam  tonnage.  In  1861,  the  total  imports  of 

the  State  amounted  to  $12,628,348,  and  the  exports  to  $10,013,097. 

• 

MANUFACTURES. 

Pennsylvania  is  largely  engaged  in  manufactures,  ranking  in  this 
respect  amongst  the  most  important  States  in  the  Union.  In  1860, 
there  were  21,000  establishments  in  the  State  devoted  to  manufactures, 
mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  223,250  hands,  a  capital 
of  $189,000,000;*  consuming  raw  material  worth  $145,300,000,  and 
yielding  an  annual  product  of  $285,500,000.  There  were  151  cotton 
mills,  employing  a  capital  of  $8,253,640,  and  5350  male  and  7370 
female  hands,  consuming  raw  material  worth  $6,732,275,  paying  $2,- 
265,912  for  labor,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $11,759,000. 
There  were  447  woollen  factories,  employing  6682  male  and  4022 
female  hands  and  a  capital  of  $5,642,425 ;  consuming  raw  material 
worth  $6,770,347;  paying  $2,239,936  for  labor;  and  yielding  an 

*  The  largest  amount  so  invested  in  any  State. 


436  THE     GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

annual    product   of  $12,744,373.     The  other    manufactures  for  the 
same  year  were  valued  as  follows : 

Leather, $12,491,631 

Pig-iron, 11,424,879 

Rolled  iron, 12,643,500 

Steam  engines  and  machinery, '  7,243,453 

Agricultural  implements, 1,455,760 

Sawed  and  planed  lumber, 11,311,000 

Flour, 26,570,000 

Malt  and  spirituous  liquors, 5,430,000 

Boots  and  shoes,  »    .     . 8,178,935 

Furniture, 2,938,503 

Jewelry,  silverware,  etc., 4.132,130 

INTERNAL   IMPROVEMENTS. 

Pennsylvania  was  one  of  the  first  states  in  the  task  of  providing 
means  of  rapid  and  direct  communication  between  her  various  points. 
The  first  great  work  ever  undertaken  in  this  country  was  the  turnpike 
from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg,  which  until  the  completion  of  the 
Erie  Canal  of  New  York,  was  the  great  highway  between  the  East 
and  the  West.  In  1825,  the  State  began  an  extensive  system  of 
canals.  This  undertaking  was  badly  managed,  however,  and  she 
did  not  at  once  derive  the  great  advantages  from  them  she  had 
expected.  Many  of  these  works  were  injudiciously  located  in  parts 
of  the  State  where  there  was  no  need  for  them.  The  consequence  was 
that  the  profits  of  the  paying  lines  had  to  be  used  to  defray  the 
expenses  of  these  unprofitable  routes,  and  in  the  course  of  time  the 
State  was  burdened  with  a  heavy  debt  on  their  account.  The  railroads 
have  taken  away  the  greater  part  of  their  business,  and  have  thus 
greatly  increased  the  burden  to  the  State. 

The  railroads  of  Pennsylvania  are  amongst  the  most  important  in 
the  country.  Philadelphia  has  direct  railroad  communication  with 
all  the  important  towns  of  the  State,  with  New  York,  Baltimore,  and 
all  parts  of  the  Union.  Seven  or  eight  main  lines  centre  in  this  city, 
and  three  or  four  in  Camden,  New  Jersey,  immediately  opposite. 
These  bring  through  freights  and  passengers  from  all  parts  of  the 
Union  to  Philadelphia. 

In  1872,  there  were  about  1100  miles  of  canal  navigation  in  Penn- 
sylvania, constructed  at  a  cost  of  over  $40,000,000.  In  the  same  year 
there  were  5113  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  the  State.  The  cost  of 
construction  was  about  $250,000,000.  This  makes.  Pennsylvania  the 
first  State  in  the  Union  with  respect  to  the  length  and  cost  of  her 
railroad  system. 


PENNSYLVANIA.  437 

EDUCATION. 

The  State  has  always  been  noted  for  the  excellence  of  its  schools. 
One  of  the  first  efforts  of  the  original  settlers  was  to  provide  for  public 
education,  and  we  find  that  the  plan  of  Government  drawn  up  by 
William  Penn  in  1682,  provided  for  the  establishment  of  public 
schools,  and  their  control  by  the  Governor  and  Provincial  Council. 
The  first  Constitution  of  the  State  (1776)  required  the  establishment 
of  at  least  one  such  school  in  each  county,  and  in  1786,  the  State  made 
a  donation  of  60,000  acres  of  the  public  lands  for  the  support  of  the 
public  schools.  In  1836,  a  permanent  school  fund  was  established. 

The  educational  system  is  under  the  control  of  a  State  Superintend- 
ent of  Public  Instruction,  who  is  appointed  by  the  Governor.  The 
State  is  divided  into  2002  school  districts,  each  of  which  is  immediately 
controlled  by  six  school  directors,  two  of  them  being  elected  each 
year.  They  hold  office  for  three  years.  They  manage  all  the  business 
affairs  of  the  schools,  appoint  the  teachers,  select  the  text-books,  and 
make  an  annual  report  to  the  county  superintendent.  This  officer  is 
required  to  be  an  experienced  teacher,  and  is  elected  for  three  years  by 
the  school  directors  of  the  county.  It  is  his  duty  to  make  a  thorough 
inspection  of  the  schools  in  his  county,  to  satisfy  himself  of  the  com- 
petency of  the  teachers  and  the  proficiency  of  the  pupils,  and  to  jnake 
an  annual  report  of  his  observations  to  the  State  Superintendent. 
The  Public  Schools  of  the  city  of  Philadelphia  are  distinct  from  those 
of  the  State,  and  are  supported  by  the  municipal  authorities.  Includ- 
ing these,  there  were  14,212  public  schools  in  Pennsylvania  in  1870. 
The  number  of  teachers  was  17,612,  of  pupils,  828,981.  The  whole 
amount  expended  during  the  year  for  public  instruction  was  $7,771,- 
761.20. 

In  Philadelphia,  in  the  year  1867,  there  were  374  schools,  with  a 
force  of  1314  teachers.  The  total  number  of  pupils  was  129,226,  the 
average  attendance,  66,333. 

There  are  five  normal  schools  ;  at  Millersville,  Mansfield,  Edinboro, 
and  Kutztown.  The  city  of  Philadelphia  has  a  fine  normal  school 
of  its  own.  The  law  provides  for  the  establishment  of  twelve  such 
schools  in  the  State,  whenever  they  may  become  necessary.  The 
present  number  of  pupils  is  2675. 

There  are  13  colleges  in  Pennsylvania.  One  of  these,  the  College 
of  Agriculture,  is  a  State  institution.  It  is  in  vigorous  operation,  and 
is  meeting  with  great  success.  The  Medical  School  of  the  University 


438  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Jefferson  Medical  College,  the  former  founded 
in  1765,  and  the  latter  in  1824,  are  amongst  the  best  schools  of  their 
kind  in  the  world.  Besides  these  are  6  other  Medical  Colleges. 
There  are  7  Theological  Seminaries,  1  Law  School,  and  9  Colleges  of 
Literature  and  Science  in  the  State.  The  University  of  Pennsylvania 
and  Girard  College  at  Philadelphia;  Dickinson  College  at  Carlisle; 
Washington  College  at  Washington ;  the  Lewisburg  University  at 
Lewisburg;  Franklin  and  Marshal  College  at  Lancaster;  and  the 
Pennsylvania  College  at  Gettysburg,  are  the  principal  institutions  in 
the  State. 

In  1870,  there  were  601  academies,  seminaries,  and  private  schools 
in  the  State,  with  848  teachers,  and  24,815  pupils. 

In  1860,  there  were  1416  libraries  in  Pennsylvania,  containing  1,- 
344,924  volumes.  Of  these,  529,  with  761,299  volumes  were  public. 

In  the  same  year,  the  number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  pub- 
lished in  the  State  was  as  follows:  daily  29,  semi-weekly  3,  tri-weekly 
1,  weekly  297,  monthly  28,  quarterly  6,  annual  3,— total  367.  Of 
these  277  were  political,  43  religious,  25  literary,  and  22  miscellaneous. 

PUBLIC   INSTITUTIONS. 

The  public  institutions  of  this  State  have  long  been  noted  for  their 
extent  and  excellence. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  at  Philadelphia,  the 
State  Lunatic  Hospital,  at  Harrisburg,  and  the  Western  Pennsylvania 
Hospital,  near  Pittsburg,  are  among  the  best  establishments  of  their 
kind  in  the  world.  Besides  these  there  are  three  incorporated  hospi- 
tals, and  several  private  establishments. 

The  Pennsylvania  Institutionjor  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  established  in 
1820,  and  the  Institution  for  the  Blind,  established  in  1833,  both  at 
Philadelphia,  are  open  to  pupils  from  New  Jersey  and  Delaware. 
Those  States,  consequently,  contribute  to  the  support  of  these  esta- 
blishments. 

The  Training  School  for  Feeble-minded  Children  is  at  Media.  It  is 
supported  in  part  by  the  State. 

There  are  two  Houses  of  Refuge.  One,  for  Western  Pennsylvania 
and  located  at  Pittsburg,  is  maintained  entirely,  and  the  other,  at 
Philadelphia,  in  part,  by  the  State,  which  also  maintains  39  schools 
and  homes  for  the  support  and  instruction  of  soldiers'  orphans. 

There  are  two  great  Penitentiaries  in  Pennsylvania — one  at  Phila- 
delphia, and  the  other  at  Alleghany  City.  The  Philadelphia  peni- 


PENNSYLVANIA.  439 

tentiary  is  one  of  the  most  complete  establishments  of  its  kind  in  the 
country.  Both  prisons  are  conducted  on  the  silent  system,  and  the 
prisoners  are  kept  separate  from  each  other.  The  discipline  is  mild 
but  firm,  and  every  effort  is  made  to  reform  as  well  as  punish  the 
prisoner.  In  1866  there  were  569  convicts  in  the  Philadelphia  prison, 
and  418  in  the  Alleghany  prison. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  Pennsylvania  was 
$52,758,384.  The  number  of  churches  was  5668. 

FINANCES. 

The  total  debt  of  the  State  in  December,  1870,  was  $31,111,661.90. 
The  funded  debt  was  $30,997,700.33,  and  the  unfunded  debt 
$113,964.57.  The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending 
November  30,  1870,  amounted  to  $7,737,465.73,  and  the  expenditures 
to  $6,434,522.91.  A  large  part  of  the  debt  was  discharged  in  the 
same  year. 

In  September,  1868,  there  were  197  National  Banks  in  operation 
in  the  State,  with  a  capital  of  $50,247,390. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  freeman,  twenty-one  years  old,  who  has  paid  a  State  or 
County  tax,  within  two  years,  (except  in  cases  of  male  freemen  between 
21  and  22  years,  who  are  not  required  to  pay  tax  as  a  condition  to  this 
right,)  and  has  resided  in  the  State  for  one  year,  and  in  his  election 
district  ten  days,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  State  Government  is  conducted  by  a  Governor,  Auditor-Gen- 
eral, and  Surveyor-Qeneral,  and  a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate 
(of  33  members,  elected  for  3  years,  one-third  retiring  annually),  and 
a  House  of  Representatives  (of  100  members,  elected  annually),  all 
chosen  by  the  people.  There  are,  also,  a  State  Treasurer,  elected 
annually  by  the  Legislature,  and  a  Secretary  of  State,  Attorney-Gen- 
eral, and  Adjutant-General,  and  several  other  executive  officers, 
appointed  by  the  Governor. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  Pennsylvania  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and 
four  Associate  Judges,  elected  by  the  people  for  fifteen  years.  The 
Judge  who  has  the  shortest  term  to  serve,  is  Chief  Justice.  This  is 
the  High  Court  of  Errors  and  Appeals. 


440  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  District  Courts  are  two  in  number,  and  are  established  at 
Philadelphia  (for  the  City  and  County  of  Philadelphia)  and  at  Pitts- 
burg  (for  the  County  of  Alleghany).  Their  jurisdiction  extends  over 
all  civil  suits  in  which  the  claim  exceeds  $1000,  and  in  certain  other 
cases  prescribed  by  law.  They  are  the  principal  commercial  courts 
for  the  cities  in  which  they  are  held. 

The  Courts  of  Common  Pleas  are  each  presided  over  by  one  Judge, 
elected  for  ten  years,  and  one  or  more  Associate  Judges,  elected  for  five 
years.  There  is  a  court  in  every  county.  They  are  also  Judges  of 
Oyer  and  Terrniner  and  general  jail  delivery  in  their  respective  counties. 

Besides  these,  there  are  police  courts  in  the  cities. 

For  purposes  of  government,  Pennsylvania  is  divided  into  G5  coun- 
ties. Harrisburg  is  the  capital  of  the  State. 

HISTORY. 

In  1627,  a  colony  of  Swedes  and  Finns,  well  provided  with  means 
from  Europe,  settled  along  the  lower  part  of  the  western  shore  of  the 
Delaware,  and  in  a  short  time  spread  their  settlements  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Schuylkill  River.  In  1655  they  were  compelled  by  the  Dutch 
to  submit  to  the  authorities  of  New  Amsterdam,  and  in  1664  passed 
under  the  rule  of  the  English.  In  1681,  Charles  II.  granted  the 
territory  west  of  the  Delaware  to  William  Penn,  in  payment  of  a  debt 
due  by  the  British  Government  to  Penn's  grandfather.  Penn  colo- 
nized his  grant  at  once  with  members  of  his  own  faith  (Friends  or 
Quakers),  and  in  1682  founded  the  City  of  Philadelphia.  His  grant 
included  the  present  State  of  Delaware,  which  was  then  known  as  the 
"lower  counties."  In  1699,  Pennsylvania  granted  these  counties  a 
separate  Assembly,  but  they  continued  subject  to  the  authority  of  her 
Governor  until  1776,  when,  upon  the  breaking  out  of  the  Revolution, 
they  formed  an  independent  establishment.  Perm's  charter  failed  to 
define  with  exactness  the  boundaries  of  his  grant,  and  this  led  to 
considerable  unpleasantness  with  the  neighboring  provinces,  which  was 
not  settled  until  1767,  when  the  surveys  of  Mason  and  Dixon  defin- 
itely established  the  boundaries  of  the  province. 

The  first  years  of  the  colony  were  passed  in  peace  with  the  Indians, 
whose  friendship  was  won  and  retained  by  the  wise  and  just  policy 
pursued  towards  them.  Upon  the  outbreak  of  the  war  of  the  Revo- 
lution, however,  they  waged  upon  the  colonists  a  cruel  and  extermin- 
ating warfare,  the  character  of  which  is  well  shown  by  the  terrible 
massacre  at  Wyoming. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


441 


DEEP   CUT,    PENNSYLVANIA   ItAILROAD. 

The  lower  counties  of  the  State  were  settled  by  the  Swedes  origin- 
ally, and  after  them  by  the  Friends  or  Quakers.  These  thrifty  people 
soon  brought  the  colony  to  a  flourishing  condition,  and  made  it,  per- 
haps, the  most  successful  of  all.  They  were  joined  in  1750  by  a  large 
number  of  no  less  thrifty  Germans,  who  settled  in  the  counties  around 
and  west  of  Philadelphia,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  to  which 
they  gave  the  peculiar  characteristics  which  distinguish  them  to-day. 

The  colonists  contributed  their  full  share  to  the  wars  with  France, 
and  gave  a  hearty  support  to  the  measures  for  securing  American 
independence.  Philadelphia  was  at  this  time  the  largest  and  most 
important  city  in  America,  and  was  the  place  at  which  the  Continental 
Congresses  first  met.  It  continued  to  be  the  seat  of  Government 
until  the  occupation  of  the  city  by  the  British  in  1777,  compelled 
Congress  to  withdraw  to  York.  The  battles  of  Brandywine  and 
Germantown  were  fought  in  this  State  about  the  same  time.  The 
massacres  of  Wyoming  and  Paoli,  in  the  same  year,  and  the  memor- 
able winter  at  the  Valley  Forge,  are  thrilling  incidents  in  the  revolu- 
tionary history  of  Pennsylvania. 


442  THE     GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Convention  which  adopted  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States  held  its  sessions  in  the  city  of  Philadelphia, 'which  had  already 
been  made  memorable  by  the  adoption  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence. 

The  Whiskey  Insurrection,  to  which  we  have  already  alluded, 
occurred  during  Washington's  administration. 

The  State  bore  its  share  of  the  burdens  of  the  war  of  1812,  and 
has  since  always  maintained  its  position  as  one  of  the  wealthiest,  most 
progressive,  and  influential  members  of  the  Union. 

During  the  late  Rebellion,  it  contributed  (exclusive  of  militia)  a 
force  of  362,284  men  to  the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States. 

The  southern  counties  suffered  very  much  from  the  incursions  of 
the  Confederates.  In  one  of  these  raids  the  town  of  Chambersburg 
was  burned.  In  June,  1863,  the  State  was  invaded  by  the  Confede- 
rate army  under  General  Lee.  This  force  was  defeated  at  Gettysburg, 
in  Adams  county,  on  the  3d  of  July,  in  one  of  the  most  memorable 
and  decisive  battles  of  the  war.  In  consequence  of  this  defeat,  Gen- 
eral Lee  retreated  into  Maryland,  and  recrossed  the  Potomac. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Philadel- 
phia, Pittsburg,  Alleghany  City,  Scranton,  Reading,  Lancaster,  Erie, 
Easton,  Norristown,  Potts vi lie,  York,  Allentown,  Danville,  Carlisle, 
Williarnsport,  Chambersburg,  West  Chester,  Oil  City,  Wilkesbarre, 
Johnstown,  and  Altoona. 

HARRISBURG, 

The  capital,  and  sixth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Dauphin  county, 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Susquehanna  River,  106  miles  west  by  north 
of  Philadelphia,  and  110  miles  north  of  Washington.  Latitude  40° 
16'  N.;  longitude  76°  50'  W.  The  city  is  beautifully  located,  and 
its  elevated  points  command  fine  views  of  river  and  mountain  scenery. 
It  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  and  healthy  country,  and  is  regularly 
laid  off.  The  business  of  the  place  is  extensive,  owing  to  the  fact 
that  it  is  one  of  the  principal  railroad  centres  of  the  State,  and  has 
canal  transportation  to  the  tide- waters  of  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland. 
Its  proximity  to  the  great  coal  and  iron  regions  of  the  State  also  adds 
to  its  importance.  It  is  already  engaged  in  manufacturing  enterprises 
to  a  considerable  extent.  Several  extensive  iron  furnaces,  rolling  mills, 
a  cotton  factory,  a  manufactory  of  railway  cars,  and  other  works  are 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


443 


SUSQUEHANNA    ABOVE    IIARRISBURG. 

carried  on.  The  city  is  rapidly  growing  in  size  and  population,  and 
promises  to  be  a  large  and  important  inland  city. 

The  streets  are  wide  and  well  paved,  and  the  city  is  substantially 
built.  In  its  general  appearance  it  resembles  Philadelphia,  the  build- 
ings being  generally  of  red  brick  trimmed  with  white  marble.  Front 
street,  a  handsome  avenue,  overlooks  the  Susquehanna,  and  contains 
many  of  the  handsomest  residences  in  the  city. 

The  Public  Buildings  are  few  in  number.  The  State  House  is  an 
imposing  edifice,  and  occupies  a  picturesque  and  commanding  position 
upon  a  natural  eminence,  a  little  north  of  the  centre  of  the  city;  and 
from  its  dome  a  fine  view  may  be  obtained  of  the  broad  and  tortuous 
river,  its  beautiful  islands,  its  bridges,  and  the  adjacent  ranges  of  the 
Kittatinny  Mountains.  The  Land  Office,  a  brick  building,  stands  on 
the  right  of  the  State  House ;  and  the  State  Department,  also  of  brick, 
on  the  left.  To  the  south  of  the  Land  Office,  is  the  State  Arsenal. 
The  Court  House,  on  Market  street,  is  a  stately  structure,  built  of 
brick  and  surmounted  by  a  dome.  The  State  House  contains  a  large 
and  valuable  library. 

There  are  9  public  schools  in  the  city,  and  19  churches.    There  are 


444  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

also  an  efficient  police  force,  and  a  steam  fire  department.  The  city 
is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  pure  water  from  the  river.  It 
is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council,  elected  by  the  people.  In  1870, 
the  population  was  23,109. 

The  first  white  settlement  made  at  Harrisburg  was  in  1719,  by  an 
Englishman  named  John  Harris.  He  purchased  from  the  proprieta- 
ries of  Pennsylvania  a  grant  of  300  acres  of  land  near  his  residence, 
and  bought  of  other  grantees  500  acres  adjoining.  He  carried  on  a 
considerable  trade  with  the  neighboring  Indians.  In  1753,  the  Penns 
granted  to  his  son,  John  Harris,  jr.,  the  right  to  establish  a  ferry 
across  the  Susquehanna  -at  this  point,  and  the  settlement  became 
known  as  Harris'  Ferry.  In  1784,  the  town  was  laid  out.  It  was 
made  the  seat  of  justice  of  the  new  county  formed  from  Lancaster 
and  called  Dauphin,  in  honor  of  the  heir  to  the  Crown  of  France. 
The  town  itself  was  called  Louisburg,  in  honor  of  Louis  XVI.  In 
1791,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  town,  and  its  name  changed  to  Harris- 
burg.  In  1812,  it  became  the  capital  of  the  State;  and  in  1860,  it 
was  incorporated  as  a  city,  and  divided  into  six  wards. 

PHILADELPHIA, 

In  the  county  of  Philadelphia,  the  largest  and  most  important  city 
of  the  State,  and  the  second  city  of  the  United  States,  lies  between  the 
Delaware  and  Schuylkill  rivers,  5  miles  from  their  junction  and  nearly 
100  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  following  the  course  of  the  Dela- 
ware River  and  Bay.  It  is  136  miles  northeast  of  Washington  City, 
and  87  miles  southwest  of  New  York.  The  city  proper  is  located  in 
a  perfectly  level  plain;  but  the  recent  additions,  especially  those  on 
the  northwest,  are  built  on  a  fine  rolling  country,  which  abounds  in 
picturesque  views  which  offer  a  striking  contrast  to  the  uniform  flat- 
ness of  the  old  city.  As  originally  laid  out  in  1701,  the  city  was 
bounded  by  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  rivers,  and  by  Vine  and 
Cedar  streets.  In  1854,  the  adjoining  districts  of  Spring  Garden, 
Penn,  Northern  Liberties,  Kensington,  and  Richmond  on  the  north, 
West  Philadelphia  on  the  west,  and  South  wark,  Moyamensing  and 
Passyunk  on  the  south,  were  consolidated  with  the  city  in  one  muni- 
cipal government.  These  constitute,  with  old  Philadelphia,  the  city 
proper;  but  by  a  recent  Act  of  the  Legislature,  the  limits  of  the  city 
of  Philadelphia  have  been  made  coextensive  with  those  of  the  county, 
which  include  an  area  of  120  square  miles.  The  entire  length  of  the 
city,  from  north  to  south,  is  20  miles;  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


445 


VIEW  OF  PHILADELPHIA  FROM  FAIRMOUNT  PARK. 

east  to  west,  8  miles.  The  suburbs  are  very  beautiful,  and  are 
thickly  built  up  with  handsome  country  seats,  villas,  cottages,  etc.  They 
abound  in  exquisite  scenery,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Wissa- 
hickon.  The  most  densely  settled  portion  of  the  city  is  the  southern 
part,  between  the  two  rivers,  where  the  peninsula  is  only  about  2  miles 
in  width.  From  this  point  it  widens  to  the  northward.  Unlike  New 
York,  the  population  is  not  crowded  into  a  few  houses.  The  dwel- 
lings contain  one  family  as  a  rule,  and  rarely  more  than  two.  They 
are  small  as  a  general  thing,  large  mansions  being  the  exception,  save 
in  the  richer  portions  of  the  city.  The  densely  inhabited  portion 
covers  an  area  of  about  9  square  miles,  extending  for  about  5 
miles  along  the  Delaware,  and  2  miles  along  the  Schuylkill.  The 
largest  part  of  the  business  of  the  city  is  transacted  between  Vine  and 
Spruce  streets,  east  of  12th  street.  The  wealthiest  private  section, 
that  inhabited  by  the  "fashion/'  is  south  of  Walnut,  and  west  of  7th 
street,  Walnut  being  considered  the  most  desirable  street  in  the  city. 
Business  is  making  considerable  inroads  upon  this  section.  Here  are 
to  be  found  some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  elegant  residences  in  the 
Union.  Arch  street,  north  of  Market,  and  Broad  street  towards  its 
northern  end,  are  among  the  handsomest  and  most  desirable  thorough- 
fares. Market  street,  which  is  entirely  devoted  to  business,  extends 


446 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE  WISSAHICKON   AT   CHESTNUT   HILL. 

throughout  the  city  from  east  to  west,  beginning  at  the  Delaware  and 
crossing  the  Schuylkill.  It  is  100  feet  in  width,  and  is  lined  with 
large  warehouses,  usually  of  brick.  Broad  street,  113  feet  wide, 
extends  from  the  northern  to  the  southern  limit  of  the  city.  Its 
northern  portion  is  lined  with  elegant  residences.  The  central  and 
southern  portions  are  devoted  to  business,  and  contain  some  of  the 
handsomest  buildings  in  the  place. 

Philadelphia  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity.     The  original  plan 
of  Penn  contemplated  a  city  with  10  streets  running  from   river  to 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


447 


PHILADELPHIA   SMALL   HOMES. 

river,  and  crossed  by  25  other  streets  at  right  angles  to  them.  Broad 
and  Market  streets  were  to  divide  this  city  into  four  nearly  equal  por- 
tions, a  considerable  area  being  reserved  at  the  intersection  of  those 
streets  for  four  large  squares.  These  constituted  the  famous  Penn 
Square,  which  has  been  recently  stripped  of  its  magnificent  trees  and 
shrubbery  to  make  way  for  the  new  municipal  buildings  which  are  to 
occupy  its  four  divisions.  The  streets  are  usually  from  50  to  66  feet 
in  width,  with  a  few  of  greater  breadth.  Those  running  from  north 
to  south  are  numbered,  beginning  at  the  Delaware  or  eastern  side ; 
those  extending  from  east  to  west  are  named.  In  the  old  sections  of 
the  city,  the  sewerage  is  defective,  in  consequence  of  the  flatness  of  the 
land,  but  the  higher  portions  have  nothing  to  complain  of  in  this 
respect.  Considering  its  size  and  importance,  Philadelphia  is  remark- 
ably deficient  in  good  pavements.  The  streets  are  generally  paved 
with  cobble  stones,  but  Belgian  and  wooden  pavements  are  now  begin- 
ning to  make  their  appearance.  The  general  aspect  of  the  city  is  bright 
and  pleasing,  mingled  with  a  certain  primness,  however,  due  to  its 
Quaker  origin.  Except  in  those  portions  along  the  water,  it  is 
very  clean,  and  is  healthy.  Market  street  divides  it  into  two 


448 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE  LEDGER  BUILDING. 


portions,  called  north  and  south.  The  houses  are  numbered  according 
to  the  streets  between  which  they  are  located,  100  to  a  block.  Thus 
740  would  be  located  between  7th  and  8th  streets.  This  system 
renders  it  comparatively  easy  to  find  a  building  in  any  part  of  the  city. 
That  portion  of  the  city  lying  east  of  the  Schuylkill  is  called  Philadel- 
phia, and  all  west  of  that  river  West  Philadelphia. 

As  a  rule  the  city  is  built  of  brick,  but  of  late  years  many  edifices 
of  brown  and  free  stone,  iron  and  marble,  have  been  erected.  Market 
street  is  the  principal  business  thoroughfare,  and  is  lined  with  immense 
stores,  generally  devoted  to  the  wholesale  trade.  Chestnut  street 
corresponds  to  Broadway  in  New  York,  and  is  the  handsomest  business 
street.  It  is  quite  narrow,  but  contains  the  most  elegant  buildings  in 
the  city,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest  and  most  attractive  streets  in 
the  Union.  It  contains  the  principal  hotels  ;  Independence  Hall ;  the 
Custom  House ;  and  the  Post-Office.  Third  street  is  the  great  money 
centre,  and  is  occupied  for  a  considerable  distance  with  the  offices  of 
bankers  and  brokers,  many  of  which  are  handsome  buildings. 

Now  that  Penn  Square  has  been  destroyed,  there  are  7  public 
squares  in  the  city.  These  are  Independence,  Washington,  Ritten- 
house,  Logan,  Franklin,  Jefferson,  and  Norris  Squares.  They  cover 
each  from  6  to  8  acres,  are  enclosed  with  tasteful  iron  railings,  and  are 
ornamented  with  magnificent  trees,  shrubbery,  fountains,  etc.  They 
are  surrounded  with  large  and  elegant  residences. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


449 


x- 


The  principal  pleasure  ground  is  Fairmount  Park,  in  the  northwest 
portion  of  the  city.  This  magnificent  pleasure  ground  lies  on  both 
sides  of  the  Schuylkill  River,  from  the  Fairmount  water- works  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Wissahickon,  and  along  both  banks  of  the  latter  stream 
to  Chestnut  Hill,  a  distance  of  7J  miles  along  the  Schuylkill  and  6 
miles  along  the  Wissahickon,  making  in  all,  a  distance  of  13  J  miles. 
The  entire  park  comprises  nearly  3000  acres,  making  it  the  most 
extensive  pleasure  ground  in  the  world.  Its  great  length  enables  it  to 
include  the  most  beautiful  portions  of  the  Schuylkill  and  the  far-famed 
29 


450 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE  WISSAHICKOX. 


Wissahickon,  and  it  abounds  in  views. of  landscape  and  river  scenery 
unsurpassed  in  any  portion  of  the  world.  It  is  rich  in  forest  trees,  on 
which  the  white  man's  hand  has  never  been  laid.  It  is  still  in  its 
infancy  as  a  park,  the  work  of  improvement  having  been  scarcely 
begun  :  but  what  has  been  accomplished  gives  promise  of  a  judicious 
and  tasteful  assistance  of  nature.  In  its  primeval  state,  this  park 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


451 


THE  UNION  LEAGUE,   BROAD  STREET. 

constituted  one  of  the  loveliest  regions  in  America.  When  art  and 
wealth  have  done  their  part,  it  will  be  indeed  worthy  of  the  pride  of 
the  people  of  Philadelphia. 

The  Park  contains  the  Fairmount  water-works,  and  a  number  of 
interesting  and  historical  localities.  Small  steamers  ply  on  the  Schuyl- 
kill  from  Fairmount  water-works  to  the  Falls,  and  carriages  supplied 
by  the  Commissioners  convey  visitors  to  the  principal  points  at  a 
moderate  rate  of  fares.  From  the  high  grounds  in  the  northern  por- 
tion a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  the  surrounding  country  is  obtained. 

The  public  buildings  are  numerous  and  handsome.  Girard  College, 
in  the  northern  portion  of  the  city,  is  the  finest  specimen  of  Grecian 
architecture  in  the  United  States.  It  is  built  of  white  marble,  and  is 
entirely  fire-proof.  There  are  two  additional  buildings  on  each  side 
of  the  main  building,  all  of  which  are  of  marble.  The  U.  S.  Custom 
House,  on  Chestnut  street,  also  of  white  marble,  is  a  magnificent  struc- 
ture in  the  Doric  style.  It  is  built  on  a  raised  platform,  and  both 
fronts  are  ornamented  with  noble  colonnades  of  fluted  Doric  columns. 
The  U.  8.  Mint,  on  Chestnut  street,  extends  back  to  Olive  street,  220 
feet.  It  is  built  of  marble,  and  is  the  principal  establishment  of  the 
Federal  Government  for  the  coining  of  money.  The  Merchants'  Ex- 
change, at  the  intersection  of  Walnut,  Third,  and  Dock  streets,  is  a 
handsome  building  of  white  marble.  The  State  House,  or  as  it  is 


452  TJ3E    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


NEW  MASONIC   TEMPLE,    ON  BROAD   STREET. 

better  known,  Independence  Hall,  is  a  plain  edifice  of  brick,  remark- 
able only  for  its  venerable  appearance  and  its  interesting  history.  It 
was  in  this  building  that  the  early  sessions  of  the  Continental  Congress 
were  held,  and  here  was  adopted  the  famous  Declaration  of  Independ- 
ence, on  the  4th  of  July,  1776.  The  Union  League  House  on  Broad 
street,  is  a  handsome  edifice  of  brick,  used  as  a  club  house  by  the 
Union  League  of  Philadelphia.  The  Masonic  Temple,tnow  in  course  of 
construction,  on  Broad  street  between  Market  and  Arch,  will  be  one 
of  the  most  magnificent  structures  in  the  city.  Many  of  the  churches 
are  elegant  and  imposing. 

The  theatres  are  about  6  in  number,  and  besides  these  there  are  a 
number  of  inferior  places  of  amusement.  The  Academy  of  Music  on 
Broad  street,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  halls  in  the  country ;  but 
the  other  theatres,  though  handsome,  are  not  equal  to  those  of  the 
other  large  cities  of  America. 

The  hotels  are  large,  elegant,  and  well  kept.  The  principal  are  the 
Continental,  the  La  Pierre,  the  Girard,  the  Merchants',  the  American, 
and  Colonnade  Hotel.  The  Continental  is  a  splendid  building,  and  in  its 
internal  arrangements  is  equal  to  any  house  of  the  kind  in  the  Union. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  provisions  by  means  of  its  excellent 
markets,  of  which  there  are  24.  Some  of  these  are  handsome  struc- 
tures of  brick  and  iron;  others  are  less  pretentious;  but  the  display 
of  edibles  of  all  kinds  to  be  seen  in  them  is  perhaps  the  finest  in  the 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


453 


world.  The  great  market  garden  regions  of  the  Middle  States  lie  so  close 
to  Philadelphia,  that  but  a  few  hours  intervene  between  the  gathering 
of  the  articles  and  their  delivery  to  the  purchaser  in  the  market. 

The  Educational,  Literary,  and  Scientific  Institutions  are  numerous 
and  of  a  very  high  order.  The  Public  Schools  have  long  been  noted 
for  their  excellence.  They  are  distinct  from  the  State  Schools  of  this 
kind,  and  are  conducted  by  the  city.  There  are  about  375  free  schools 
within  the  corporate  limits,  including  two  high  schools.  The  average 
attendance  of  pupils  is  about 
67,000.  There  are  numerous 
private  schools  and  academies, 
which  are  well  attended.  Phi- 
ladelphia has  always  been 
famous  for  the  care  bestowed 
by  its  people  upon  the  educa- 
tion of  the  young,  and  no 
doubt  owes  a  large  share  of 
its  prosperity  to  this  care. 

The  University  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, 9th  street,  between 
Chestnut  and  Market,  em- 
braces four  departments,  viz. : 
the  Academical,  the  Collegiate, 
the  Medical,  and  the  Law. 
It  ranks  among  the  first  in- 
stitutions of  its  kind  in  Amer- 
ica, and  its  Medical  College  is 
the  oldest  in  the  Union.  The 
Jefferson  Medical  College  is 
also  a  famous  and  flourishing 
institution.  The  Female  Medi- 
cal College  is  devoted  to  the 

object  indicated  by  its  name.  The  others  are  an  Eclectic  and  Homoeo- 
pathic Medical  College,  a  College  of  Pharmacy  for  the  education  of 
druggists  and  chemists,  a  College  of  Dental  Surgery,  a  College  of  Phy- 
sicians, which  is  one  of  the  principal  sources  of  the  American  Phar- 
macopoeia, and  a  Polytechnic  College,  organized  on  the  plans  of  the 
Industrial  Colleges  of  France  and  Germany.  The  Wagner  Free 
Institute,  the  gift  of  Professor  Wagner,  is  a  fine  institution.  Girard 
College,  in  the  northwest  portion  of  the  city,  about  two  miles  from  the 
$tate  House,  was  founded  by  Stephen  Girard,  a  native  of  France  and 


HEMLOCK    GLEN    ON    THE    WISSAHICKON. 


454 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


NEW  ACADEMY  OF  NATURAL  SCIENCES. 


a  merchant  of  Philadelphia,  who  died  in  1831.  He  bequeathed 
$2,000,000  for  this  purpose.  The  buildings  were  completed  in  1847, 
and  the  institution  was  opened  January  1,  1848.  It  is  devoted  to  the 
"  gratuitous  instruction  and  support  of  destitute  orphans."  The  build- 
ings, 6  in  number,  are  of  white  marble. 

The  American  Philosophical  /Society  has  a  valuable  library  and 
collection  of  minerals,  fossils,  and  ancient  relics.  The  Franklin 
Institute  is  a  flourishing  society  composed  of  manufacturers,  artists, 
mechanics,  and  persons  friendly  to  the  mechanic  arts.  It  possesses  a 
library  of  over  8000  volumes,  and  holds  an  annual  exhibition  in 
October.  The  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  is  one  of  the  best  insti- 
tutions of  its  kind  in  the  Union.  It  possesses  a  library  of  26,000 
volumes,  and  a  remarkably  fine  collection  of  specimens,  embracing 
over  200,000  subjects.  The  Historical  Society  of  Pennsylvania  was 
founded  for  the  purpose  of  diffusing  a  knowledge  of  local  history, 
especially  in  relation  to  the  State  of  Pennsylvania.  It  has  published 
a  number  of  valuable  works  on  this  subject.  It  possesses  a  library  of 
18,000  volumes,  and  a  valuable  collection  of  contemporary  documents 
and  relics. 

The  Philadelphia  Library  was  founded  in  1731  through  the  influ- 
ence of  Benjamin  Franklin.  It  numbers  about  90,000  volumes,  and 
is  free  to  all  who  wish  to  use  it.  The  Mercantile  Library  is  supported 
by  the  subscriptions  of  its  members.  It  contains  over  40,000  volumes. 
The  Athanceum  Library  numbers  about  25,000  volumes.  Connected 


PENNSYLVANIA, 


455 


with  it  are  a  news  and  reading  room  and  a  chess  room.  The  Appren- 
tices' Library  contains  22,000  volumes ;  the  Friends'  Library  7000 
volumes ;  and  the  Law  Association  Library  7500  volumes. 

The  Pennsylvania  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  possesses  a  valuable  per- 
manent collection  of  paintings,  and  holds  an  annual  exhibition  of  new 
works.  The  Artists'  Fund  Society,  the  Numismatic  Society  of  Phila- 
delphia, and  the  School  of  Design  for  Women  are  the  other  art 
societies. 

The  Benevolent  and  Charitable  Institutions  number  more  than  100. 
We  can  mention  but  a  few  of  the  most  prominent.  In  respect  to  her 
institutions  of  this  kind, 
Philadelphia  is  second  to 
no  city  in  the  land.  The 
Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  a 
noble  institution,  founded 
in  1751.  It  possesses  an 
anatomical  museum,  and  a 
library  of  more  than  10,000 
volumes.  The  County  Alms 
House  is  an  immense  struc- 
ture, situated  in  the  midst 
of  large  grounds  in  West 
Philadelphia.  Connected 
with  it  is  a  hospital  with 
600  beds.  The  Pennsyl- 
vania Insane  Asylum  is  in 
West  Philadelphia.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  institutions 
of  its  kind  in  existence. 

Its  grounds  cover  an  area  of  114  acres.  The  main  building  is 
430  feet  long.  The  United  States  Naval  Hospital,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  below  South  street,  is  for  the  use  of 
invalid  officers  and  seamen  of  the  U.  S.  Navy.  The  Pennsylvania 
Institute  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  the  Pennsylvania  Institution  for  the 
Blind,  the  Preston  Retreat,  the  House  of  Refuge,  the  House  of  Correc- 
tion, and  Wills  Hospital  are  noble  charities. 

The  Prisons  are  well  conducted.  The  Eastern  State  Penitentiary 
occupies  an  area  of  11  acres,  enclosed  by  a  stone  wall,  30  feet  high. 
It  is  built  of  stone,  and  consists  of  an  octagonal  building  in  the  centre, 
from  which  radiate  wings,  with  rows  of  cells  on  each  side,  and  a 


ON   THE  WISSAIIICKON   DRIVE. 


456 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SCHUYLKILL   RIVER,    FROM   THE   FALLS. 


passage  way  extending  the  entire  length  of  each  wing.  It  is  a  model 
institution  in  every'  respect.  The  Philadelphia  County  Prison  is  a 
massive  building  of  stone.  It  is  used  for  the  purposes  of  a  peniten- 
tiary as  well  as  a  county  jail  and  work-house. 

There  are  about  375  churches  in  the  city.  As  a  rule  they  are 
handsome  and  substantially  built.  The  meeting-houses  of  the  Friends 
are  generally  plain  brick  structures,  remarkable  for  their  absence  of 
display.  They  are  14  in  number. 

The  Cemeteries  are,  Laurel  Hill,  Glenwood,  Mount  Vernon,  Monu- 
ment, Woodlands,  Ronaldson's,  Odd  Fellows',  and  Mount  Moriah.  They 
are  noted  for  their  beauty.  Laurel  Hill  is  considered  by  many  persons 
the  most  beautiful  cemetery  in  the  Union.  It  is  located  on  the  banks 
of  the  Schuylkill,  in  a  lovely  country,  and  contains  many  handsome 
tombs. 

Philadelphia  is  lighted  with  gas  of  an  excellent  quality,  which  is 
supplied  at  a  reasonable  rate  to  the  citizens.  The  gas  works  are  con- 
ducted by  the  city,  and  the  consumers  are  secured  the  best  quality  of 
gas  that  can  be  made,  and  are  protected  from  the  extortions  of  private 
companies.  The  total  length  of  street  mains  is  about  500  miles. 


PENNSYLVANIA 


457 


CHESTNUT   STREET   BRIDGE,    OVER   THE   SCHUYLKILL,    PHILADELPHIA. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Schuylkill  River.  In 
1812  the  Fairmount  Water  Works  were  begun,  and  in  1827  water 
was  introduced  into  the  city.  Since  then  the  city  has  constructed 
additional  reservoirs.  The  Fairmount  Water  Works,  on  the  Schuyl- 
kill River,  in  the  northwest  part  of  the  city,  are  very  interesting  and 
constitute  one  of  the  chief  attractions  to  visitors.  The  average  amount 
used  per  diem  exceeds  25,000,000  gallons. 

Philadelphia  is  connected  with  the  Jersey  shore  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Delaware  by  six  lines  of  steam  ferries.  Numerous  steamers 
ply  on  the  Delaware  between  Philadelphia  and  the  towns  on  that  river. 

The  street  railway  lines  are  22  in  number.  They  constitute  the  best 
system  of  street  transportation  in  the  Union.  By  the  use  of  transfer 
tickets  almost  any  point  within  the  city  limits  can  be  reached  at  a 
uniform  fare  of  seven  cents. 

There  are  9  bridges  in  and  near  Philadelphia.  Some  of  these  are 
used  exclusively  by  the  railway  lines  entering  the  city.  The  bridge 
over  the  Schuylkill  at  Chestnut  street  is  a  beautiful  structure  of  iron, 
390  feet  long,  42  feet  wide,  and  40  feet  above  high  water.  It  cost 
$500,000. 

The  city  is  provided  with  a  strong  and  efficient  police  force,  a  fire 


458 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


alarm  telegraph,  and  a  steam  fire  department,  with  more  than  30 
steam  engines.  It  is  divided  into  24  wards,  and  is  governed  by  a 
Mayor  and  Council  elected  by  the  people. 

There  are  10  daily,  and  40  weekly  newspapers,  and  about  50  peri- 
odicals, weekly  and  monthly,  published  in  Philadelphia.  A  large 
share  of  the  book  publishing  trade  of  the  Union  is  carried  on  here. 

Philadelphia  is  largely  engaged  in  manufactures.  The  district  of 
Manayunk  is  almost  wholly  engaged  in  these  enterprises,  devoting 
itself  principally  to  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  and  carpets.  Sugar 
refining  is  carried  on  extensively  in  the  city.  Large  quantities  of 
shoes,  chemicals,  medicines,  paints,  umbrellas,  parasols,  carts,  wheel- 
barrows, household  furni- 
ture, jewelry,  iron  manu- 
factures of  every  descrip- 
tion, steam  engines,  water 
and  gas  pipes,  military 
goods,  flour,  soap,  ale  and 
beer,  glass,  clothing,  can- 
dles, hosiery,  etc.,  etc.,  are 
manufactured  annually. — 
The  total  capital  invested 
in  manufactures  in  Phila- 
delphia is  estimated  at 
nearly  $100,000,000.  Ship 
building  js  also  Carried  on 
to  a  limited  extent. 

The  commerce  of  Phi- 
ladelphia is  large,  and  is 
growing  rapidly.  Its  for- 
eign trade  passes  principally  through  the  port  of  New  York. 
Efforts  are  now  being  made  to  establish  direct  communication  between 
Philadelphia  and  Liverpool.  In  1865,  there  were  541  arrivals  from 
foreign  po.rts.  The  city  carries  on  an  immense  coasting  trade,  and  its 
harbor  is  usually  crowded  with  vessels.  In  1865,  there  were  31,705 
arrivals  from  American  ports.  The  total  value  of  exports  from  the 
port  of  Philadelphia  in  1865  was,  $11,278,603.  The  imports  in  the 
same  year  amounted  to  $7,164,744.  The  city  also  conducts  a  large 
trade  with  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  especially  with  the  West,  by 
means  of  its  railroads.  Immense  quantities  of  coal  and  petroleum 
annually  pass  through  Philadelphia,  thus  adding  to  its  wealth. 


PUBLIC   FOUNTAIN. 


PENNSYLVANIA.  45^ 

Philadelphia  is  at  present  the  fourth  city  in  the  Union  in  commercial 
importance,  but  it  is  making  rapid  progress  towards  a  higher  position. 

The  U.  8.  Navy  Yard  is  located  on  the  Delaware  River  in  the 
southeastern  part  of  the  city.  It  covers  an  area  of  12  acres,  and 
contains  2  large  ship-houses,  and  all  the  necessary  works.  Some  of 
the  best  vessels  in  the  Navy  have  been  constructed  here.  It  also  con- 
tains a  sectional  floating  dock. 

In  1870,  the  population  of  Philadelphia  was  674,022.  In  1684,  it 
had  2500  inhabitants,  in  1778,  42,520  ;  in  1820  (up  to  which  time  it 
was  the  largest  city  in  the  Union),  167,325  ;  and  in  1860,  565,529. 

The  city  of  Philadelphia  was  founded  by  William  Penn  immediately 
upon  taking  possession  of  the  grant  of  a  province  by  Charles  II.  He 
sent  out  a  body  of  colonists  in  August  1681,  and  in  1682,  came  over 
himself,  and  superintended  the  surveys  of  the  new  city.  During  the 
latter  year,  a  large  number  of  colonists  arrived,  the  majority  of  whom 
were  Friends  or  Quakers,  and  persons  of  respectability  and  wealth. 
Penn's  deliberate  intention  was  to  found  a  large  city,  and  the  general 
plan  of  the  present  city  differs  very  slightly  from  his  original  design. 
The  new  settlement  was  named  by  him  Philadelphia,  partly  from  the 
city  of  that  name  in  Asia  Minor,  but  principally  because  of  the  signi- 
ficance of  the  term.  Penn's  first  care  was  to  make  an  equitable  treaty 
with  the  Indians,  who,  on  their  part,  carefully  abstained  from  molest- 
ing the  new  city,  which  prospered  in  a  marked  degree,  and  became  the 
largest  and  most  important  place  on  the  continent,  which  preeminence 
it  held  until  about  30  years  after  the  opening  of  the  Revolution. 
Philadelphia  T)ore  its  full  share  in  the  events  of  the  early  wars  of  the 
country  with  the  French  and  Indians,  though  it  was  itself  never 


"  In  1741,  the  city  was  divided  into  10  wards.  In  December  1719, 
a  printing  press  was  set  up,  and  Andrew  Bradford  began  to  publish 
the  American  Weekly  Mercury,  which  was  continued  until  1746.  In 

1728,  the    Gazette  was   begun,  which  fell  to  Franklin   to  conduct  in 

1 729.  In  the  latter  year,  the  building  of  a  State  House  was  author- 
ized, the  site  was  selected  in  1730,  and  the  building  begun  in  1732, 
and  completed  in  1735.     The  bell  tower  was  not  erected  till  1750; 
and  on  June  7th,  1753,  the  new  '  great  bell/  cast  here,  weighing  2080 
pounds,  with   the  motto,  '  Proclaim  liberty/  etc.,  was  raised  to  its 
place;  this  is  the  bell  celebrated  in  connection  with  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  now  in  Independence  Hall.     The  first  Colonial 
Congress  met  in  Philadelphia  at  Carpenters'  Hall,  a  building  still  in 


460 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


INDEPENDENCE  HALL,    PHILADELPHIA. 


use  as  a  hall,  on  September  4,  1774.  Congress  held  its  sessions  at  the 
State  House  in  1776,  and  here  adopted  and  signed  the  Declaration  of 
Independence.  The  British  forces  occupied  the  city  from  September, 
1777,  to  June,  1778.  A  census  was  then  taken  by  General  Corn- 
wallis,  and  there  were  found  to  be  21, 767  inhabitants  and  5470  houses, 
but  the  people  were  then  much  scattered.  Congress  resumed  its 


PENNSYLVANIA.  4G1 

sessions  at  Philadelphia  after  the  British  left  it,  and  continued  to  make 
this  the  national  capital  until  the  removal  to  Washington  City  in  1800. 
The  battle  of  Germantown,  October  4,  1777,  was  fought  within  the 
present  chartered  limits  of  the  city,  7  miles  northwest  of  the  centre  of 
the  old  city  proper.  The  State  Legislature  removed  its  sessions  to 
Harrisburg  in  1800,  simultaneously  with  the  removal  of  the  seat  of 
the  General  Government  to  Washington.  The  foreign  commerce  and 
general  trade  of  Philadelphia  increased  rapidly  after  the  close  of  the 
Revolution.  At  the  war  of  1812  this  commerce  almost  wholly  ceased  ; 
in  1816,  business  and  speculation  revived,  but  the  results  were  not 
fortunate,  and  direct  external  trade  never  recovered  its  former  import- 
ance. Previous  to  1839,  the  banking  capital  of  Philadelphia  was 
large,  and  for  most  of  the  period  previous  to  1836,  it  was  the  monetary 
centre  of  the  country.  The  First  Bank  of  the  United  States,  established 
by  Act  of  Congress,  in  1791,  with  a  capital  of  $10,000,000,  was  located 
here ;  and  the  Second  Bank  of  the  United  States  was  established  here 
in  1816,  with  a  capital  of  $35,000,000.  The  subsequent  failure  of 
the  bank  under  its  State  charter  in  1839,  and  the  loss  of  its  large 
capital,  greatly  weakened  the  financial  strength  of  the  city,  and  the 
monetary  centre  was  permanently  transferred  to  New  York.  The  re- 
vulsion of  1837,  and  the  subsequent  financial  depression,  fell  heavily 
on  the  city  and  State,  the  recovery  from  them  not  being  apparent  until 
1844.  In  1793,  the  yellow  fever  made  terrible  ravages,  nearly  deci- 
mating the  population,  and  driving  numbers  into  the  country ;  and 
again  in  1798,  it  was  epidemic.  In  1832,  the  Asiatic  cholera  was 
very  destructive,  the  victims  numbering  770.  More  recently,  there 
have  been  milder  forms  of  epidemic  cholera  and  yellow  fever,  but  as 
a  whole  the  city  has  from  its  foundation  been  conspicuously  healthy,." 
The  separate  municipalities  proved  for  many  years  the  source  of 
considerable  trouble,  and  in  1854,  they  were  all  consolidated  into  one 
city,  under  the  general  name  of  Philadelphia.  By  the  same  enact- 
ment, the  corporate  limits  of  the  city  were  made  to  embrace  the  entire 
county. 

PITTSBURG, 

The  second  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Alleghany  county,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela  rivers,  which  here  form 
the  Ohio  River.  It  is  357  miles  west  of  Philadelphia,  and  223  north- 
west of  Washington  city.  The  city  is  located  on  the  triangular  plain 
enclosed  by  the  Monongahela  and  Alleghany  rivers,  and  by  Grant's  Hill 


462  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  the  other  eminences  at  the  eastern  side  of  the  plain.  "  The  general 
outline  and  many  other  features  of  this  city  bear  a  striking  resemblance 
to  the  lower  part  of  New  York.  Along  the  Monongahela  the  streets 
were  laid  out  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and  extend  either  parallel  or 
perpendicular  to  the  river.  The  same  plan  was  also  adopted  on  the  Alle- 
ghany side,  by  which  arrangement  the  cross  streets  meet  obliquely  a  few 
squares  south  of  the  latter  stream.  The  space  included  within  these 
limits  was  found  insufficient  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  rapidly 
increasing  population,  which  soon  extended  itself  to  the  opposite  shores. 
Here  have  sprung  up  several  large  and  flourishing  towns,  the  most 
important  of  which  are  Alleghany  City  and  Manchester,  situated 
directly  opposite  the  junction  of  the  Alleghany  River  with  the  Ohio, 
and  Birmingham,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Monongahela.  In  commer- 
cial and  social  interests,  all  these  are  identical  with  the  city  proper, 
and  we  should  do  Pittsburg  injustice,  not  to  consider  them  as  a  part 
of  the  same  community." 

The  situation  of  Pittsburg  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  The  city  lies 
in  a  plain  surrounded  by  hills  from  400  to  500  feet  in  height.  At 
the  base  of  these  flow  the  three  rivers  we  have  named.  The  hills  are 
very  rich  in  coal,  iron,  and  limestone.  The  soil  is  fertile  to  the  very 
summit  of  the  hills,  which  are  covered  with  picturesque  forests, 
orchards,  and  gardens,  thus  giving  an  additional  beauty  to  the  land- 
scape. An  English  traveller  writes  of  the  scenery  as  follows  : 

"As  regards  scenery  it  is  beautifully  situated,  being  at  the  foot  of 
the  Alleghany  Mountains,  and  at  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers 
Monongahela  and  Alleghany.  Here,  at  the  town,  they  come  together, 
and  form  the  River  Ohio.  Nothing  can  be  more  picturesque  than 
the  site,  for  the  spurs  of  the  mountains  come  down  close  round  the 
town,  and  the  rivers  are  broad  and  swift,  and  can  be  seen  for  miles 
from  heights  which  may  be  reached  in  a  short  walk.  Even  the  filth 
and  wondrous  blackness  of  the  place  are  picturesque  when  looked 
down  upon  from  above.  The  tops  of  the  churches  are  visible,  and 
some  of  the  larger  buildings  may  be  partially  traced  through  the  thick, 
brown,  settled  smoke.  But  the  city  itself  is  buried  in  a  dense  cloud. 
The  atmosphere  was  especially  heavy  when  I  was  there,  and  the  effect 
was  probably  increased  by  the  general  darkness  of  the  weather.  The 
Monongahela  is  crossed  by  a  fine  bridge,  and  on  the  other  side  the 
ground  rises  at  once,  almost  with  the  rapidity  of  a  precipice;  so  that  a 
commanding  view  is  obtained  down  upon  the  town  and  the  two  rivers 
and  the  different  bridges,  from  a  height  immediately  above  them.  I 


PENNSYLVANIA.  463 

was  never  more  in  love  with  smoke  and  dirt  than  when  I  stood  here 
and  watched  the  darkness  of  night  close  in  upon  the  floating  soot 
which  hovered  over  the  house-tops  of  the  city.  I  cannot  say  that  I 
saw  the  sun  set,  for  there  was  no  sun.  I  should  say  that  the  sun  never 
shone  at  Pittsburg,  as  foreigners  who  visit  London  in  November 
declare  that  the  sun  never  shines  there." 

The  city  is  handsomely  built,  brick  and  stone  being  the  principal 
materials  used;  but  the  dense  smoke  soon  defaces  the  handsomest 
structure.  In  consequence  of  this  the  place  has  a  black  grimy 
appearance,  which  effectually  mars  the  work  of  taste  and  wealth. 
There  are  many  handsome  residences  in  the  eastern  section.  The 
suburbs  are  preferred  for  purposes  of  residence  however.  They  are 
very  picturesque  in  themselves,  and  are  beautifully  built  up,  and 
present  a  very  marked  contrast  to  the  city  in  cleanliness. 

The  Public  Buildings  are  among  the  handsomest  in  America.  The 
Court  House  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  Grant's  Hill,  and  is  a  hand- 
some edifice  of  granite,  of  the  Grecian  Doric  order,  with  a  noble  por- 
tico. The  summit  of  the  dome  is  148  feet  from  the  ground.  The 
new  Custom  House  is  built  of  freestone  in  the  Grecian  style.  It  con- 
tains the  Post  Office.  Besides  these  are  several  others  which  are 
worthy  of  notice.  Some  of  the  churches  and  commercial  buildings 
are  among  the  principal  ornaments  of  the  city.  There  are  also  2  fine 
market  houses,  one  of  which  contains  a  large  public  hall. 

The  Educational  Institutions  are  in  a  flourishing  condition.  The 
public  schools  are  numerous,  and  are  attended  by  about  20,000  pupils. 
Besides  these  the  city  contains  a  nunlber  of  private  schools. 

The  Benevolent  Institutions  are  the  Mercy  Hospital,  under  the 
charge  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy,  the  United  States  Marine  Hospital, 
the  Home  for  ike  Friendless,  the  Church  Home,  designed  chiefly  as  a 
home  for  children  of  all  denominations,  the  Pittsburg  Infirmary,  the 
Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum  and  a  House  of  Refuge.  In  addition 
to  these  are  the  Western  Pennsylvania  Hospital  (which  has  a  depart- 
ment for  the  insane  at  Dixmont,  8  miles  from  the  city),  and  the  House 
of  Industry,  situated  in  Alleghany  City,  but  really  to  be  regarded  as 
among  the  institutions  of  Pittsburg. 

The  Western  Penitentiary  of  Pennsylvania  is  located  in  Alleghany 
City.  It  is  an  immense  stone  building  in  the  Norman  style. 

There  are  about  110  churches  in  the  city  of  Pittsburg,  and  about 
30  in  Alleghany  City.  Some  of  them  are  imposing  structures  and 
are  admirably  located. 


464  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Pittsburg  is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  the  Alleghany  River, 
and  is  lighted  with  gas  of  an  excellent  quality.  It  is  divided  into  9 
wards,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  is  well  provided 
with  street  railways,  which  also  connect  its  business  centres  with  the 
suburbs  on  both  rivers.  Four  fine  bridges  connect  it  with  Alleghany 
City,  and  two  extend  across  the  Monongahela  to  Birmingham. 

Alleghany  City  is  simply  an  extensive  suburb  of  Pittsburg,  and  is 
divided  from  it  by  the  Alleghany  River.  It  is  well  built  in  the 
main,  and  contains  many  handsome  residences,  being  a  favorite  resi- 
dence of  the  people  of  the  greater  city,  as  it  is  very  much  cleaner. 
It  contains  a  large  number  of  manufacturing  establishments,  and  is  a 
place  of  considerable  importance.  Here  are  located  the  Western 
Theological  Seminary  of  the  Presbyterian  Church ;  the  Theological 
Seminary  of  the  Associate  Reformed  Church;  and  the  Alleghany 
Theological  Institute.  In  1870  the  population  of  Alleghany  City  was 
53,181.  The  manufactures,  etc.,  of  the  city  will  be  treated  of  in  con- 
nection with  those  of  Pittsburg.  Alleghany  is  a  distinct  corporation, 
and  is  governed  by  its  own  Mayor  and  Council. 

Birmingham  and  Manchester  are  considerable  suburbs.  The  former 
is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Monongehela  -River,  immediately 
opposite  Pittsburg,  and  the  latter  is  on  the  Ohio,  2  miles  below  the 
city.  Mr.  Geo.  H.  Thurston,  in  his  Quarterly  Circular,  thus  describes 
manufacturing  Pittsburg : 

"  Pittsburgh  is  not  to  be  seen  in  a  day,  nor  yet  in  a  week ;  and  while 
the  simple  fact  that  it  is  a  great  manufacturing  city  is  generally 
acknowledged,  yet  the  details  of  that  greatness  are  but  little  under- 
stood. Many  years  ago,  before  the  iron  horse  had  crossed  the  Alle- 
ghanies,  while  yet  the  transportation  of  the  merchandise  for  the  West 
was  made  in  the  old  six-horse  Conestoga  wagons,  the  City  of  Wheeling 
claimed  importance  and  coming  greatness,  inasmuch  as  that  forty  of 
those  wagons  had  arrived  in  that  city  in  one  day.  Since  then  Wheel- 
ing has  grown  into  an  active  little  competitor  of  Pittsburgh,  the  great 
parent  of  all  western  manufactures,  and  of  which  it,  as  well  as  a  dozen 
other  manufacturing  towns,  are  off-shoots,  the  natural  outspringing 
and  colonization  of  Pittsburgh's  growth.  That  growth  has  been  so 
marked  and  so  continuous  that  we  have  often,  in  the  past  few  years, 
been  tempted  to  remodel  the  language  of  Wheeling,  and  say  :  Forty 
miles  of  mills  and  factories  every  day  in  operation  in  Pittsburgh.  This 
is  no  brag,  but  almost  literally  a  reality,  although  no  doubt  a  terse 
explanation  of  '  what  Pittsburgh  really  is  like '  is  rather  startling  to  her 


PENNSYLVANIA.  465 

own  citizens.  The  real  fact"  is  that  actual  measurement  shows  that  in 
the  limits  of  what  is  known  throughout  the  country  as  Pittsburgh  there 
are  thirty-five  miles  of  manufactories  of  iron,  of  glass,  of  steel,  of 
copper,  of  oil,  of  wools,  of  cotton,  of  brass,  alone,  not  to  include 
manufactories  in  other  materials,  nor  including  any  of  less  grade  than 
manufactories  of  iron  chains  in  iron,  or  plows  in  wood.  A  measure- 
ment of  the  ground  also  shows  that  these  35  miles  of  factories  are  so 
closely  contiguous  that  were  they  placed  in  a  single  row  each  factory 
would  have  but  about  400  feet  of  front  space  for  its  workings. 

"  The  statistics  of  this  statement  of  the  extent  of  Pittsburgh  manu- 
facturing power  are  these:  From  the  point  trf>  the  south  bank  of  the 
Alleghany  River  to  the  Sharpsburg  bridge  is  5  miles ;  in  that  dis- 
tance, between  the  river  bank  and  Penn  street,  there  are  115  factories 
of  the  classes  designated.  From  Sharpsburg  bridge  down  the  north 
bank  of  the  Alleghany  River  to  Wood's  Run  is  8  miles,  and  in  that 
distance  there  are  67  manufactories.  From  Temperanceville  to 
Brownstown,  up  the  west  bank  of  the  Monongahela  River,  is  4  miles, 
and  in  that  distance  there  are  70  factories,  between  the  river  and 
Carson  street.  From  the  Monongahela  bridge  up  the  course  of  the 
Monongahela  River,  to  a  point  beyond  Brownstown,  is  3J  miles,  and 
in  that  distance,  between  Carson  street  and  the  hill,  there  are  43 
manufactories.  From  the  Point  to  the  Copper  Works,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Monongahela,  is  3J  miles,  and  in  that  distance  there  are 
55  factories.  From  Federal  street  out  Ohio  street  to  Duquesne 
Borough  is  1J  miles,  and  in  that  distance  there  are  15  factories.  On 
Butcher's  Run,  in  a  distance  of  2  miles,  there  are  32  factories.  Along 
Liberty  street,  from  the  Point  to  the  Outer  Depot,  there  are  19  fac- 
tories in  a  distance  of  2  miles.  On  2d  and  3d  avenues,  from  Liberty 
to  Try  streets,  a  distance  of  1  mile,  there  are  18  factories.  Along 
•Pennsylvania  avenue  to  Soho  street,  a  distance  of  ]  J  miles,  there  are 
17  factories.  Between  Ohio  street  and  the  base  of  the  hill  there  are, 
in  a  distance  of  3  miles,  24  factories. 

"Thus  in  a  distance  of  35  J  miles  of  streets,  there  are  475  manu- 
factories of  iron,  of  steel,  of  cotton,  of  oil,  of  glass,  of  copper,  occupy- 
ing an  average  of  less  than  400  feet  front  each. 

"Were  these  factories  placed  in  a  single  row,  it  will  be  easily  seen 
how  compactly  they  would  be  crowded,  each  occupying  no  more  terri- 
tory than  was  actually  needed.  They  would  be  a  continuous  row, 
without  interval,  and  show  that  in  reality  there  are  in  Pittsburgh  ab- 
solutely over  35  continuous  miles  of  manufactures  in  daily  operation. 
30 


466  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

"  Pittsburghers,  then,  in  answer  to  the  question,  what  is  Pittsburgh 
like?  can  readily  answer — Like  a  row  35  miles  long  of  factories 
twisted  up  into  a  compact  tangle  all  belching  forth  smoke,  all  glow- 
ing with  fires,  all  swarming  with  workmen,  all  echoing  with  the  clank 
of  machinery.  The  territory  over  and  around  which  this  immense 
chain  of  machinery  is  strung,  though  all  popularly  known  as  Pitts- 
burgh, is  composed  of  the  city  of  Pittsburgh  and  the  city  of  Alleghany, 
the  boroughs  of  Temperanceville,  West  Pittsburgh,  Monongahela, 
South  Pittsburgh,  Birmingham,  and  East  Birmingham.  The  whole 
forms,  however,  one  compact  city,  in  effect,  divided  only  by  the  two 
rivers,  which,  running  through  the  district,  are  spanned  by  numerous 
bridges,  over  several  of  which  street  railroads  link,  with  their  almost 
continuous  lines  of  cars,  in  one  mass,  a  population  in  this  hive  of  in- 
dustry numbering  200,000  souls.  Although  the  name  of  Pittsburgh, 
and  the  term  Pittsburgh  manufactures,  have  been  'as  household 
words7  throughout  the  West,  since  the  days  of  the  earlier  Western 
settlements,  still  its  growth  has  been  so  equable  with  that  of  the  West 
that  but  few  realize  the  real  magnitude  of  the  community. 

"  Called  into  existence  by  no  sudden  speculative  rush  of  emigra- 
tion, drawn  primarily  by  some  adventitious  circumstances,  Pittsburgh 
has  accumulated  its  population  through  the  course  of  years  from  the 
solid  advantages  each  passing  year  renders  but  more  apparent.  In  all 
past  years  Pittsburgh  has  been  a  point  of  departure  for  much  of  the 
emigration  to  the  West,  a  position  the  city  still  maintains.  Thus 
naturally  Pittsburgh  became  a  supply  point  for  the  West,  and  the 
West  the  chief  market  for  her  productions.  The  increase  of  the  popu- 
lation of  the  West  has  told  with  unerring  certainty  upon  the  business 
and  the  population  of  Pittsburgh. 

"In  1800,  the  population  of  the  States  through  and  along  which 
Pittsburgh  enjoys  river  navigation,  was  385,667,  and  that  of  Pitts- 
burgh was  1565,  or  a  little  over  ^  per  cent.,  while  the  value  of  her 
business  was,  in  1803,  but  $350,000,  or  equal  to  92  T2F  per  cent,  of 
the  population  of  the  West. 

"In  1810,  there  were  in  the  same  western  territory  1,057,531  in- 
habitants, and  in  Pittsburgh  4876,  or  j*Q  per  cent.,  being  ^  over  i!^> 
necessary  increase  to  preserve  the  ratio  of  our  increase  in  the  city's 
population,  in  proportion  to  that  of  the  West.  The  amount  of  busi- 
ness of  the  city  was  then  estimated  at  $1,000,000,  equal  to  93  per 
cent,  on  the  population  of  the  territory  indicated. 

"In  1830,  there  were  3,331,298  inhabitants  in  the  section  of  the 


PENNSYLVANIA.  467 

Union  before  indicated,  and  in  Pittsburgh  there  were  16,988,  still 
showing  the  growth  of  the  city  was  not  in  the  same  ratio  of  increase 
as  the  West,  as  in  past  periods,  but  a  gain  of  TV  over  what  was  neces- 
sary. 

"In  1840,  there  were  5,173,949  inhabitants  in  the  western  and 
southwestern  States,  and  the  population  of  Pittsburgh  was  38,931, 
being  %$  per  cent.,  showing  not  only  the  maintenance  of  the  progres- 
sive ratio,  but  a  gain  over  it  of  ^50  per  cent. 

"In  1836,  the  business  of  the  city  was  estimated  at  $31,146,550, 
being  something  over  600  per  cent.,  showing  the  business  of  the  city 
had  not  only  kept  pace  with  the  population  of  the  West,  as  shown  in 
previous  ratios,  but  had  compounded  thereon  500  per  cent. 

"In  1860,  the  population  of  the  Mississippi  basin  and  the  western 
lake  slopes  (Pittsburgh's  market),  was  shown  by  the  census  of  that 
year  to  be  in  round  numbers  17,000,000.  At  that  date  the  business 
of  Pittsburgh  was  estimated  at  over  $100,000,000,  showing  the  ratio 
of  business  on  the  population  of  the  West,  attained  in  1836  and  1840, 
was  still  maintained. 

"The  population  of  the  district  considered  and  claimed  as  Pitts- 
burgh, being  the  compact  mass  of  population  between  and  on  both 
sides  of  the  rivers  to  the  city  limits,  was  estimated  at  140,000  in  that 
year,  showing  that  in  population  as  well  as  business  the  ratio  of  Pitts- 
burgh's prosperity  with  the  wealth  of  the  West  continues  to  be  main- 
tained. What  the  population  of  the  West  may  be  as  shown  by  the 
census  of  1870  we  know  not,  but  those  who  know  the  great  growth 
of  Pittsburgh  in  the  last  nine  years,  the  vast  increase  in  her  rolling- 
mills  and  in  her  workshops,  cannot  doubt  that  the  ratio  of  increase  is- 
still  maintained.  In  the  great  swell  of  the  population  of  the  West, 
Pittsburgh  seems  not  only  to  keep  pace  and  to  hold  her  trade,  but 
that  trade,  like  her  population,  seems  to  increase  in  arithmetical  pro- 
portion with  the  growth  of  the  country.  Considering  the  competitors 
which  have  arisen  for  the  market  Pittsburgh  supplies  with  her  staples, 
this  is  worthy  especial  note  as  indicative  of  a  natural  force  in  her 
position  and  her  resources  not  to  be  lost  sight  of  in  contemplating 
her  future. 

"  The  force  of  Pittsburgh's  position  is  seen  at  a  glance.  Distant 
only  300  to  400  miles  from  three  of  the  greatest  sea-board  cities  of 
the  Union  ;  but  200  miles  from  the  great  chain  of  inland  seas,  and 
reaching  in  all  directions  by  continuous  river  navigation  an  area  of 
country  1200  by  960  geographical  miles,  she  is  at  the  same  time  the 


468  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

key  point  of  a  railway  route  nearer  by  40  miles  from  New  York  to 
the  West  than  any  now  constructed.  Situated  in  the  heart  of  a  bitu- 
minous coal  formation  of  the  Appalachian  field,  and  equally  advan- 
tageously located  as  to  deposits  of  iron  ore,  her  geographical  relations 
to  the  staples  for  manufacturing  are  unequalled.  She  stands  in  a  geo- 
graphical centre  from  which  a  circle  with  a  radius  of  400  miles  em- 
braces Pennsylvania,  New  York,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Connecti- 
cut, Rhode  Island,  Delaware,  New  Jersey,  Maryland,  Virginia,  Ohio, 
North  Carolina,  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Indiana,  Michigan,  Canada, 
parts  of  Illinois  and  South  Carolina.  This  circle  embraces  every 
variety  of  climate,  and  nearly,  if  not  quite  all  the  staples  of  the  United 
States  and  its  valuable  manufacturing  minerals,  over  which  she  holds 
the  magician's  wand  in  her  unequalled  supply  of  fuel.  For  <  coal/ 
says  Vischers,  '  is  the  indispensable  aliment  of  industry.  It  is  to  in- 
dustry what  oxygen  is  to  the  lungs — water  to  the  plant — nourishment 
to  the  animal/ 

"  The  statistics  of  the  coal  by  which  Pittsburgh  is  -surrounded  shows 
how  inexhaustible  is  this  element  of  her  force  and  her  progress.  The 
extent  of  the  bituminous  coal  fields  by  which  Pittsburgh  is  surrounded 
is  equal  to  8,600,000  square  acres.  The  amount  of  coal  contained  in 
that  area  it  is  difficult  to  estimate.  It  has  been  stated  that  the  upper 
seam,  rating  it  at  8  feet,  contains  53,516,430,000  tons,  which  at  $2  per 
ton,  or  a  little  over  7  cents  per  bushel,  would  be  worth  $107,032,- 
860,000 — a  sum  which,  could  it  be  realized,  would  pay  the  national 
debt  thirty  times.  Of  course  although  centuries  will  not  see  it  taken 
from  the  earth,  the  figures  show  what  a  mine  of  wealth  Pittsburgh 
has  to  draw  from ;  and  how  mighty  is  the  magnet  she  possesses  to 
attract  to  her  boundaries  minerals  and  staples  of  all  the  States,  popu- 
lation and  wealth.  At  the  present  time  the  coal  trade  of  the  city 
amounts  to  about  $10,000,000  annually,  and  there  are  in  the  vicinity 
of  Pittsburgh  103  collieries;  the  value  of  lands,  houses,  improve- 
ments, cars,  etc.,  amounts  to  about  $11,000,000.  The  amount  of  coal 
•mined  from  these  collieries  in  1864  was  48,462,966  bushels,  of  which 
nearly  30,000,000  bushels  were  exported  down  the  Ohio  River  alone. 

"  But  not  in  coal  alone  is  her  strength  shown.  In  those  things 
which  coal  enables  her  busy  artizans  to  produce,  is  her  power  equally 
apparent.  As  nearly  as  can  be  ascertained,  one-half  of  the  glass  fac- 
tories in  the  United  States  are  located  at  Pittsburgh,  where  there  are 
40  firms  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  glass,  who  run  60  factories 
producing  the  various  descriptions  of  green,  window,  flint,  and  lime 


PENNSYLVANIA.  4G9 

i 

glass,  employing  over  4000  workmen,  and  producing  between  four 
and  five  millions  worth  of  glass. 

"  In  iron  and  steel,  Pittsburgh  claims  and  maintains  to  be  the  great 
market  of  the  country.  The  exact  money  value  of  this  great  trade 
has  always  been  difficult  to  arrive  at.  Much  of  the  iron  is  shipped 
by  rail  to  various  points,  and  much  by  river.  By  figures  we  have  at 
command  of  the  shipments  of  plate,  bar,  sheet,  and  rod  iron  and  steel 
from  Pittsburgh  in  the  year  1865,  it  would  seem  that  there  were  ex- 
ported, by  rail  alone,  to  24  diiferent  States,  over  143,000  tons,  and 
180,000  kegs  of  nails  to  20  different  States.  These  railroad  exporta- 
tions,  it  must  not  be  forgotten,  are  not  probably  half  the  manufacture. 
That  of  castings  there  were  shipped  by  rail  alone  5,143,008  pounds 
in  1864,  to  22  different  States;  and  that  by  one  railroad  alone  there 
were  received  in  1864,  into  the  city,  107,000  tons  of  pig-iron  and 
blooms,  exclusive  of  the  yield  of  6  or  8  furnaces  running  in  the  city 
of  Pittsburgh,  or  the  imports  by  river  and  other  railroads.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  of  shipments  made  from  Pittsburgh,  at  least  as  much  is 
sent  by  river  as  by  rail.  There  are  over  30  iron  rolling-mills  in 
Pittsburgh,  6  steel  mills,  and  between  50  and  60  iron  founderies. 
These  figures  but  feebly  indicate  the  full  extent  of  the  great  iron  and 
steel  trade  of  the  city,  of  which  the  sales  alone  of  articles  made  of  iron 
subject  to  tax,  made  and  returned  to  the  city,  was  from  March,  1865, 
to  March,  1866,  over  $27,000,000. 

"  Oil  is  another  great  staple,  and  there  are  in  Pittsburgh  58  re- 
fineries, in  which  is  invested  a  capital  of  nearly  §8,000,000  in  buildings 
and  machinery  ;  and  in  the  tanks  and  barges  necessary  to  the  carrying- 
on  of  the  business,  nearly  $6,000,000  more.  The  oil  trade  of  the  city 
for  the  5  years  from  January,  1863,  to  January,  1868,  amounted  to 
about  $56,000,000,  or  an  average  of  about  $11,000,000  annually. 

"  Other  branches  of  Pittsburgh  manufactures  might  be  cited  to  show 
its  force  and  solidity,  but  enough  has  been  stated  to  partially  show 
what  Pittsburgh  is  like.  To  show  that  she  is  like  a  great  city  cf 
nearly  200,000  population  ;  that  she  is  a  great  arsenal  for  the  supply 
of  manufactured  articles;  that  she  grows  with  the  growth,  and  in- 
creases in  wealth  with  the  prosperity  of  the  West.  Although  she  has 
apparently  grown  but  slowly,  yet  she  has  grown  like  the  oak,  and  but 
counts  her  infancy  in  the  years  in  which  other  cities  spring  and  ma- 
ture; and  she  stands  like  a  sooty  giant  astride  the  head  waters  of  the 
Ohio,  rejoicing  in  the  lusty  strength  of  her  fresh  youth,  while  her 
powerful  servant,  the  mighty  Geni  of  the  Mine,  throughout  the  waters 


470  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  the  Ohio,  along  the  shores  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  around  the 
borders  of  the  great  lakes,  on  either  hand  of  the  pathway  of  the  iron 
horse,  athwart  the  Western  prairies,  proclaims  her  the  dusky  Queen 
of  Industry,  and  commands  homage  to  her  iron  sceptre  in  three- 
fourths  of  the  States  of  the  Union." 

Its  very  location  has  placed  an  enormous  trade  in  the  hands  of 
Pittsburg.  Lying  at  the  head  of  the  Ohio  River,  it  has  water  com- 
munication with  every  town  on  the  navigable  portion  of  the  Ohio, 
the  Mississippi,  and  the  Missouri  rivers  and  their  tributaries.  Being 
one  of  the  principal  railway  centres  of  the  West,  it  has  railway  con- 
nections with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  The  principal  harbor  is  fur- 
nished by  the  Monongahela  River,  which  lias  a  greater  depth  of  water 
than  the  Alleghany.  The  Ohio  is  navigable  to  the  confluence  of  those 
streams  for  boats  of  light  draught,  except  at  infrequent  periods  of 
very  great  dryness.  The  boats  are  generally  built  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  adapt  them  to  the  lowest  stages  of  water.  Large  side-wheel 
steamers  also  navigate  the  Ohio  during  the  season  of  high  water.  By 
means  of  these  steamers,  a  heavy  trade  is  maintained  with  the  States 
along  the  rivers  we  have  mentioned.  Pittsburg  thus  controls  about 
12,000  miles  of  water  transportation,  and  can  deliver  its  products 
without  breaking  bulk  in  over  400  counties  of  17  States.  In  1865, 
there  were  159  steamboats  owned  in  the  city.  The  number  is  much 
greater  at  present.  Besides  these,  hundreds  of  steamers,  owned  in 
other  States,  trade  with  Pittsburg. 

In  1870,  the  population  of  Pittsburg  was  86,235. 

In  February,  1754,  a  party  of  English  settlers  built  a  stockade  and 
established  a  trading  post  on  the  point  of  land  lying  between  the 
Monongahela  and  Alleghany  rivers  at  their  confluence,  on  the  site  of 
the  present  city  of  Pittsburg.  In  April,  they  were  attacked  and 
driven  away  by  the  French,  who  claimed  the  country.  The  con- 
querors erected  a  fort  on  the  spot,  and  called  it  Duquesne,  in  honor 
of  the  Governor  of  Canada.  This  fort  at  once  became  the  centre  of 
all  the  military  operations  of  the  French  in  this  part  of  the  country. 
To  the  French  claim,  which  was  based  upon  their  discovery  of  the 
region,  the  English  advanced  a  counter  claim  based  upon  a  charter 
from  the  Crown,  strengthened  by  a  treaty  with  the  Iroquois.  The 
importance  attached  to  the  position  by  the  French  made  it  a  matter 
of  the  greatest  moment  to  the  English  to  obtain  possession  of  it. 
General  Braddock  was  sent,  in  1755,  at  the  head  of  the  largest  force 
that  had  ever  crossed  the  mountains,  to  recapture  it.  He  was  attacked 


PENNSYLVANIA.  4U 

and  defeated  by  the  French  and  Indians,  on  the  9th  of  July  of  that 
year,  at  a  point  on  the  Monongahela,  about  12  miles  above  the  fort. 
On  the  15th  of  October,  1758,  a  force  of  800  men,  under  Major  Grant, 
advancing  to  attack  the  fort,  was  defeated  with  terrible  loss.  "  On  the 
25th  of  November,  1758,  the  fort  fell  into  the  hands  of  a  force  of  6000 
men  under  General  Forbes.  The  French  and  their  Indian  allies 
vainly  endeavored  to  check  Forbes7  advance,  and  failing  in  this,  set 
the  fort  on  fire  and  retreated  on  the  24th,  the  day  before  the  arrival 
of  the  English.  General  Forbes  rebuilt  and  strengthened  the  fort. 
It  was  completed  in  January,  1759,  and  was  called  Fort  Pitt,  in  honor 
of  the  great  English  Minister.  The  French  made  several  efforts  to 
recapture  it,  but  without  success.  In  1764,  the  settlement  of  the 
town  began,  the  houses  being  erected  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort.  In 
1772,  the  fort  was  abandoned  by  the  English,  who  had  no  further 
use  for  it  as  a  military  post.  The  site  was  claimed  by  Virginia  under 
a  charter  from  James  I.  Pennsylvania  also  claimed  it  under  a  char- 
ter from  Charles  II.  Virginia  prepared  to  assert  her  claim  by  force, 
and  on  the  llth  of  August,  1775,  threw  a  company  of  soldiers  into 
Fort  Pitt.  The  Revolution  made  this  a  minor  question,  however, 
and  in  August,  1779,  Commissioners,  appointed  by  the  two  provinces, 
met  in  Baltimore,  and  agreed  upon  the  existing  boundary  which  was 
ratified  by  their  respective  Legislatures.  The  excise  troubles  of  1791— 4, 
made  Pittsburg  the  scene  of  considerable  violence.  In  1845,  a  fire 
destroyed  the  entire  business  portion  of  the  city,  causing  a  loss  of 
$5,000,000.  Pittsburg  was  incorporated  as  a  borough  in  1804,  and 
as  a  city  in  1816. 

SCRANTON, 

The  fourth  city  in  population  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Luzerne 
county,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lacka wanna  River,  137  miles  north- 
east of  Harrisburg.  It  is  the  terminus  of  several  railway  lines  lead- 
ing direct  to  Harrisburg,  Philadelphia,  and  New  York,  and  the  centre 
of  an  immense  coal  trade.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  large  quantities  in 
the  vicinity,  and  the  city  is  largely  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
iron  wares  of  various  kinds.  The  principal  sources  of  its  prosperity, 
however,  are  the  rich  coal  mines  which  lie  near  the  town.  These 
mines  are  worked  by  the  Pennsylvania  and  other  companies,  and  em- 
ploy large  numbers  of  miners  of  all  nationalities. 

Scranton  is  a  well  built  town,  containing  about  4  public  schools, 
11  churches,  and  2  newspaper  offices.     It  is  prettily  situated,  and  is 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC, 


SCRANTON. 

improving  in  its  architectural  pretensions.  During  the  last  few  years, 
the  population  has  increased  with  unprecedented  rapidity.  In  1860, 
the  city  contained  9223  inhabitants.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
35,762.  If  Pittsburg  and  Alleghany  are  regarded  as  one  -city, 
Scranton  is  the  third  city  in  Pennsylvania. 

BEADING, 

The  fifth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Berks  county,  on  the  left 
or  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill  River,  52  miles  east  of  Harrisburg, 
and  52  miles  northwest  of  Philadelphia,  with  both  of  which  places 
it  is  connected  by  railways.  It  has  railway  connections  with  other 
parts  of  the  State.  The  Schuylkill  Canal  brings  it  in  direct  commu- 
nication with  the  entire  Schuylkill  region.  The  river  is  here  crossed 
by  two  bridges,  one  of  which  is  600  feet  long. 

The  city  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  sloping  plain,  which  rises  from 
the  river,  and  is  terminated  on  the  east  by  an  eminence  called  Penn's 
Mount.  The  city  is  well  built,  brick  being  the  principal  material. 
The  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right- 


PENNSYLVANIA.  473 

angles.  The  streets  are  macadamized  and  afford  a  firm,  smooth  road- 
way, admirably  adapted  to  travel.  The  general  appearance  of  the 
town  is  clean. 

The  principal  buildings  are  the  Court  House  and  the  churches, 
some  of  the  latter  of  which  are  very  handsome.  The  public  schools 
are  excellent,  and  there  are  several  private  schools.  There  are  23 
churches  in  the  city,  and  2  daily  and  6  weekly  newspapers  are  pub- 
Jished  here.  Reading  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  water. 
The  surrounding  country  is  very  beautiful,  and  as  this  section  of  the 
State  is  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  regions  of  the  Union,  Reading 
is  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  It  is  also  largely  engaged  in  manu- 
factures— iron,  cotton,  and  flour  being  the  principal  articles.  It  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
33,932. 

Reading  was  laid  out  in  1748,  by  Thomas  and  Richard  Penn,  and 
named  from  the  town  of  Reading  in  England.  In  1783,  it  was  incor- 
porated as  a  borough  ;  and  in  1847,  as  a  city. 

LANCASTER, 

The  seventh  city  of  the  State,  is  finely  situated  in  Lancaster  county, 
1  mile  west  of  Conestoga  Creek,  70  miles  west  of  Philadelphia,  and 
37  miles  east-southeast  of  Harrisburg.  The  Pennsylvania  Central 
Railway  passes  through  the  city,  and  connects  it  with  Philadelphia, 
Harrisburg,  and  Pittsburg.  The  slack-water  navigation  of  the  Con- 
estoga gives  it  water  transportation  to  the  sea,  and  is  a  source  of  con- 
siderable wealth  to  it.  It  is  situated  in  the  wealthiest  and  most 
thickly  populated  section  of  the  State,  and  possesses  a  large  trade  with 
the  surrounding  country  and  with  Philadelphia.  It  is  also  largely 
engaged  in  manufactures,  and  is  extending  its  efforts  in  this  direction. 
It  is  noted  for  the  production  of  rifles,  axes,  carriages,  agricultural 
implements,  locomotives,  and  cotton  goods. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  off.  The  streets  are  straight  and  well 
paved,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right-angles.  The  city  is  lighted 
with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  Conestoga  Creek. 
The  majority  of  the  buildings  are  of  brick,  and  this  gives  to  the  place 
a  substantial  appearance.  Many  of  the  dwellings  are  elegant  and 
would  do  credit  to  any  city.  The  Court  House  is  a  fine  edifice  of 
stone,  in  the  Grecian  style  ;  and  the  County  Prison  is  a  handsome 
structure,  of  sand-stone.  There  are  several  excellent  public  schools 
in  the  city,  and  about  as  many  flourishing  private  schools.  Lancaster 


474  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

is  the  seat  of  Marshal  College,  organized  in  1853,  in  connection  with 
the  old  establishment  of  Franklin  College,  which  was  founded  in  1787. 
The  city  contains  15  churches,  and  2  public  libraries.  Two  daily 
and  7  weekly  newspapers  are  published  here.  Lancaster  is  governed 
by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  20,233. 

Lancaster  was  laid  out  in  1730.  It  was  settled  principally  by 
Germans,  and  the  present  inhabitants  are  mostly  of  German  descent. 
It  was  for  many  years  the  largest  inland  town  in  the  United  States, 
and  was  the  capital  of  Pennsylvania  from  1799  to  1812.  In  1818, 
it  was  incorporated  as  a  city. 

ERIE, 

The  eighth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Erie  county,  on  the  south- 
east shore  of  Lake  Erie,  90  miles  southwest  of  Buffalo,  129  miles 
north  of  Pittsburg,  and  310  miles  northwest  of  Harrisburg.  It  lies 
immediately  opposite  the  island  of  Presque  Isle,  which  was  once  a 
peninsula.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  sheltered  on  the 
lake.  It  is  about  1  mile  wide  and  3J  miles  long,  with  a  depth  of 
from  9  to  25  feet  of  water  along  its  entire  length.  It  has  been  greatly 
improved  and  strongly  fortified  by  the  United  States  Government, 
and  its  entrance  is  marked  by  a  light-house.  It  is  connected  with 
the  Ohio  River  at  Beaver,  by  the  Erie  Extension  Canal,  and  has 
railway  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  It  possesses  a 
flourishing  lake  trade,  and  is  largely  engaged  in  the  export  of  lumber, 
petroleum,  and  coal.  It  is  also  interested  in  manufactures  to  a  limited 
extent,  the  canal  affording  extensive  water-power. 

The  town  is  well  built,  being  constructed  chiefly  of  brick.  It  is 
situated  on  an  elevated  bluff,  overlooking  and  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  the  lake.  The  streets  are  wide  and  straight,  and  cross  each 
other  at  right-angles.  Near  the  centre  of  the  city  is  a  tasteful  park. 
Erie  contains  about  13  churches,  a  public  library,  7  newspaper  offices, 
and  several  public  schools,  which  rank  among  the  best  in  the  State. 
It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water.  It  is  governed  by 
a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  19,646.  It  is 
the  only  lake  port  situated  in  Pennsylvania. 

Erie  was  settled  about  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  In 
1805,  it  was  incorporated.  Its  history  is  uneventful,  and  its  growth 
was  slow.  The  principal  event  connected  with  it  was  the  fitting  out 
here  of  Perry's  fleet  during  the  war  of  1812-15. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


475 


EASTON. 

EASTON, 

In  Northampton  county,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Delaware  River,  at 
the  junction  with  that  stream  of  the  Lehigh  River  and  Bushkill 
Creek,  is  a  flourishing  city.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  in  rectangular 
blocks,  is  well  built,  and  is  lighted  with  gas  and  supplied  with  pure 
water.  It  is  finely  situated  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful scenery  of  the  State,  and  is  in  many  respects  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque cities  in  America.  The  Lehigh  and  Delaware  are  here 
crossed  by  fine  bridges.  The  city  possesses  good  water-power,  and  is 
largely  engaged  in  manufactures.  Flour,  oil,  iron,  lumber,  cotton 
goods,  and  fire-arms  are  the  principal  articles  produced.  The  city  is 
connected  with  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  all  parts  of  the  State, 
by  railway.  By  means  of  these  and  the  Delaware,  Lehigh,  and  Mor- 
ris Canals,  large  quantities  of  coal,  lumber,  and  grain  are  received 
and  shipped  to  the  principal  markets  of  the  country.  Easton  is  one 
of  the  most  enterprising  places  in  Pennsylvania,  and  is  growing  rap- 
idly in  population  and  importance.  It  contains  the  county  buildings, 
several  handsome  churches,  and  several  excellent  schools.  It  is  the 
geat  of  Lafayette  College,  a  flourishing  institution.  Five  newspapers 


476  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

are  published  here.     The  city  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council. 
In  1870  the  population  was  10,987. 

Easton  was  laid  out  in   1 738,  and  was  incorporated  as  a  town  in 
1789.     The  surrounding  country  is  very  beautiful,  and  is  rich  in  iron 

ore  and  limestone. 

v 

MISCELLANIES. 

OLD    TIME    CUSTOMS    IN    PHILADELPHIA. 

Mr.  Watson,  in  his  "Historic  Tales  of  the  Olden  Time,"  gives  some  interest- 
ing accounts  of  the  customs  of  the  people  of  Philadelphia  prior  to  the  Revolution. 

He  sa}rs : 

They  were  distinguished  for  a  frank  and  generous  hospitality.  They  made 
many  entertainments,  but  they  were  devoid  of  glare  and  show,  and  always  abun- 
dant and  good. 

Dr.  Franklin,  describing  the  state  of  the  people  about  the  year  1752,  says  they 
were  all  loyal,  and  submitted  willingly  to  the  government  of  the  Crown,  or  paid 
for  defence  cheerfully.  i;They  were  led  by  a  thread.  They  not  only  had  a  re- 
spect, but  an  affection,  for  Great  Britain,  for  its  laws,  its  customs,  and  its  man- 
ners, and  even  a  fondness  for  its  fashions, — not  yet  subsided.  Natives  of  Great 
Britain  were  always  treated  with  particular  regard  ;  and  to  be  '  an  Old  England 
man '  gave  a  kind  of  rank  and  respect  among  us." 

The  old  people  all  testify  that  the  young  of  their  youth  were  much  more  re- 
served, and  held  under  much  more  restraint  in  the  presence  of  their  elders  arid 
parents,  than  now.  Bashfulness  and  modesty  in  the  young  were  then  regarded 
as  virtues ;  and  the  present  freedom  before  the  aged  was  not  then  countenanced. 
Young  lovers  then  listened  and  took  sidelong  glances,  when  before  their  parents 
or  elders. 

It  was  the  custom  for  the  j'ounger  part  of  the  family,  and  especially  of  the  fe- 
male part,  to  dress  up  neatly  towards  the  close  of  the  day,  and  sit  in  the  street 
porch.  Sometimes  they  would  go  from  porch  to  porch  in  neighborhoods,  and  sit 
and  converse.  Tea  was  such  a  rarity  that  it  was  measured  out  for  the  teapots  in 
small  hand-scales.  Afternoon  visits  were  not  made,  as  now,  at  night,  but  at  so 
early  an  hour  as  to  permit  matrons  to  go  home  and  see  their  children  put 
to  bed. 

Before  the  Revolution,  no  hired  man  or  woman  wore  any  shoes  so  fine  as  calf- 
skin ;  coarse  neats  leather  was  their  every  day  wear.  Men  and  women  then 
hired  by  the  year — men  got  £16  to  £20,  and  a  servant  woman  £8  to  £10.  Out  of 
that  it  was  their  custom  to  lay  up  money,  to  buy  before  their  marriage  a  bed  and 
bedding,  silver  teaspoons,  and  a  spinning  wheel,  etc. 

Among  the  rough  amusements  of  men  might  be  mentioned  shooting,  fishing, 
and  sailing  parties.  These  were  frequent,  as  also  mutton  clubs,  fishing,  house 
and  country  parties  were  much  indulged  in  by  respectable  citizens.  Great  so- 
ciability prevailed  among  all  classes  of  citizens,  until  the  strife  with  Great  Britain 
sent  '  every  man  to  his  own  ways  ; "  then  discord  and  acrimony  ensued,  and  the 
previously  general  friendly  intercourse  never  returned.  We  afterwards  grew  an- 
other and  enlarged  people. 

Our  girls  in  the  daytime  used  to  attend  the  work  of  the  family,  and  in  the  even- 


PENNSYLVANIA.  477 

ing  paraded  in  their  porch  at  the  door.  Some  of  them,  however,  even  then,  read 
novels,  and  walked  without  business  abroad.  Those  who  had  not  housework 
employed  themselves  in  their  accomplishments,  such  as  making  shell-work,  cor- 
nucopias, working  of  pocket  books,  with  a  close,  strong-stitched  needlework. 

The  ladies,  seventy  years  ago,  were  much  accustomed  to  ride  on  horseback 
for  recreation.  It  was  quite  common  to  see  genteel  ladies  riding,  with  jockey 
caps. 

Boarding  schools  for  girls  were  not  known  in  Philadelphia  until  about  the 
time  of  the  Revolution,  nor  had  they  any  separate  schools  for  writing  and  cipher- 
ing, but  were  taught  in  common  with  boys.  The  ornamental  parts  of  female 
education  were  bestowed,  but  geography  and  grammar  were  never  regarded  for 
them,  until  a  certain  Mr.  Horton — thanks  to  his  name — proposed  to  teach  those 
sciences  to  young  ladies.  Similar  institutions  afterwards  grew  into  favor. 

It  was  usual,  in  the  gazettes  of  17GO  to  1770,  to  announce  marriages  in  words 
like  these,  to  wit:  "Miss  Betsey  Lawrence,  or  Miss  Elizabeth  Caton,  a  most 
agreeable  lady,  with  a  large  or  a  handsome  fortune." 

In  still  earlier  times,  marriages  had  to  be  promulged  by  affixing  the  intentions 
of  the  parties  on  the  court  house  or  meeting  house  door  ;  and  when  the  act  was 
solemnized,  they  should  have  at  least  twelve  subscribing  witnesses.  The  act 
which  imposed  it  was  passed  in  1700. 

The  wedding  entertainments  of  olden  times  were  very  expensive  and  harassing 
to  the  wedded.  The  house  of  the  parent  would  be  rilled  with  company  to  dine  ; 
the  same  company  would  stay  to  tea  and  to  supper.  For  two  days,  punch  was 
dealt  out  in  profusion.  The  gentlemen  saw  the  groom  on  the  first  floor,  and 
then  ascended  to  the  second,  where  they  saw  the  bride  ;  there  every  gentleman, 
even  to  100  in  a  day,  kissed  her.  Even  the  plain  Friends  submitted  to  these 
things.  I  have  known  rich  families  which  had  120  persons  to  dine — the  same 
who  had  signed  their  certificate  of  marriage  at  the  monthly  meeting  ;  these  also 
partook  of  tea  and  supper.  As  they  formally  passed  the  meeting  twice,  the  same 
entertainment  was  repeated.  Two  days  the  male  friends  would  call  and  take 
punch,  and  all  would  kiss  the  bride.  Besides  this,  the  married  pair,  for  two  en- 
tire weeks,  saw  large  tea  parties  at  their  home,  having  in  attendance  every  night 
the  groomsman  and  bridesmaids.  To  avoid  expense  and  trouble,  Friends  have 
since  made  it  sufficient  to  pass  but  one  meeting.  When  these  marriage  enter- 
tainments were  made,  it  was  expected  also  that  punch,  cakes,  and  meats  should 
be  sent  out  very  generally  in  the  neighborhood,  even  to  those  who  were  not  visi- 
tors in  the  family. 

Of  articles  and  rules  of  diet,  so  far  as  it  differed  from  ours,  in  the  earliest  time, 
we  may  mention  coffee,  as  a  beverage,  was  used  but  rarely  ;  chocolate  for  morn- 
ing and  evening,  or  thickened  milk  for  children.  Cookery  in  general  was  plainer 
than  now.  In  the  country,  morning  and  evening  repasts  were  generally  made 
of  milk,  having  bread  boiled  therein,  or  else  thickened  with  pop-robins — things 
made  up  of  flour  and  eggs  into  a  batter,  and  so  dropped  in*  with  the  boiling 
milk. 

A  lady  of  my  acquaintance  thus  describes  the  recollections  of  her  early  days, 
preceding  the  war  of  Independence  :  Dress  was  discriminate  and  appropriate, 
both  as  regarded  the  season  and  the  character  of  the  wearer.  Ladies  never  wore 
the  same  dresses  at  work  and  on  visits  ;  they  sat  at  home,  or  went  out  in  the 
morning,  in  chintz  ;  brocades,  satins,  and  mantuas  were  reserved  for  evening  or 
dinner  parties.  Robes  or  negligees,  as  they  were  called,  were  always  worn  in 


478  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

fall  dress.  Muslins  were  not  worn  at  all.  Little  Misses  at  a  dancing  school 
ball  (for  these  were  almost  the  only  fetes  that  fell  to  their  share  in  the  days  of 
discrimination)  were  dressed  in  frocks  of  lawn  or  cambric.  Worsted  was  then 
thought  dress  enough  for  common  days. 

As  a  universal  fact,  it  may  be  remarked,  that  no  other  color  than  black  was 
over  made  for  ladies'  bonnets,  when  formed  of  silk  or  satin.  Fancy  colors  were 
unknown,  and  white  bonnets  of  silk  fabric  had  never  been  seen.  The  first  inno- 
vation remembered  was  the  bringing  in  of  blue  bonnets. 

The  time  was  when  the  plainest  woman  among  the  Friends  (now  so  averse  to 
fancy  colors)  wore  their  colored  silk  aprons,  say,  of  green,  or  blue,  etc.  This 
was  at  a  time  when  the  gay  wore  white  aprons.  In  time,  white  aprons  were  dis- 
used by  the  gentry,  and  then  the  Friends  left  off  their  colored  ones  and  used  the 
white.  The  same  old  ladies  among  Friends,  whom  we  can  remember  as  wearers 
of  the  white  aprons,  wore  also  large  white  beaver  hats,  with  scarcely  the  sign  of 
a  crown,  and  which  was  indeed  confined  to  the  head  by  silk  cords  tied  under  the 
chin.  Eight  dollars  would  buy  such  a  hat,  when  beaver  fur  was  more  plentiful. 
They  lasted  such  ladies  almost  a  whole  life  of  wear.  They  showed  no  fur. 

Very  decent  women  went  abroad  and  to  churches  with  check  aprons.  I  have 
seen  those  who  kept  their  coach  in  my  time  to  bear  them  to  church,  who  told  me 
they  went  on  foot,  with  a  check  apron,  to  the  Arch  street  Presbyterian  meeting 
in  their  3routh.  Then  all  hired  women  wore  short  gowns  and  petticoats  of 
domestic  fabric,  and  could  be  instantly  known  as  such  whenever  seen  abroad. 

In  the  former  days,  it  was  not  uncommon  to  see  aged  persons  with  large  silver 
buttons  to  their  coats  and  vests — it  \vas  a  mark  of  wealth.  Some  had  the  initials 
of  their  names  engraved  on  each  button.  Sometimes  they  were  made  out  of  real 
quarter  dollars,  with  the  coinage  impression  still  retained — these  were  used  for 
the  coats,  and  the  elevenpenny-bits  for  vests  and  breeches.  My  father  wore  an 
entire  suit  decorated  with  conch-shell  buttons,  silver  mounted. 

The  articles  of  dress  in  those  early  times  would  at  the  present  day  not  be  re- 
cognized by  their  names.  The  following  is  an  advertisement  for  the  year  1745  : 

"  For  sale.  Tandems,  isinghams,  nuns,  bag  and  gulix  (these  all  mean  shirt- 
ing), huckabacks  (a  figured  worsted  for  women's  gowns),  quilted  humhums, 
turketees,  grassets,  single  allopeens,  children's  stays,  jumps  and  bodice,  whale- 
bone and  iron  busks,  men's  new  market  caps,  silk  and  worsted  wove  patterns 
for  breeches,  allibanes,  dickmansoy,  cushloes,  chuckloes,  cuttanees,  crimson 
dannador,  chain1  d  soosees,  lemouees,  byrampauts,  moree,  naffermamy,  saxling- 
ham,  prunelloe,  barragons,  druggets,  florettas,"  etc.,  etc. 

It  was  very  common  for  children  and  working  women  to  wear  beads  made  of 
Job's  tears,  a  berry  of  a  shrub.  They  used  them  for  economy,  and  said  it  pre- 
vented several  diseases. 

Until  the  period  of  the  Revolution,  every  person  who  wore  a  fur  hat,  had  it 
always  of  entire  beaver.  Every  apprentice,  at  receiving  his  "freedom,"  received 
a  real  beaver  at  a  cost  of  six  dollars.  Their  every  day  hats  were  of  wool,  called 
felts.  What,  were  called  roram  hats,  being  fur  faced  upon  wool  felts,  came  into 
use  directly  after  the  peace,  and  excited  much  surprise,  as  to  the  invention.  Gen- 
tlemen's hats,  of  entire  beaver,  universally  cost  eight  dollars. 

The  use  of  lace  veils  to  ladies'  faces  is  but  a  modern  fashion,  not  of  more  than 
twenty  to  thirty  years  standing.  Now  they  wear  black,  white,  and  green — the 
last  only  lately  introduced  as  a  summer  veil.  In  olden  time,  none  wore  a  veil 
but  as  a  mark  and  badge  of  mourning,  and  then,  as  now,  of  crape  in  preference 
to  lace. 


PENNSYLVANIA.  479 

Ancient  ladies  remembered  a  time,  in  their  early  life,  when  the  ladies  wore 
blue  stockings  and  party-colored  clocks  of  very  striking  appearance.  May  not 
that  fashion,  as  an  extreme  ton  of  the  upper  circle  in  life,  explain  the  adoption 
of  the  term,  "Blue-stocking  Club?1'  I  have  seen,  in  possession  of  Samuel 
Coates,  Esq.,  the  wedding  silk  stockings  of  his  grandmother,  of  a  lively  green, 
and  great  red  clocks.  My  grandmother  wore,  in  winter,  very  fine  worsted  green 
stockings,  with  a  gay  clock  surmounted  with  a  bunch  of  tulips. 

The  late  President,  Thomas  Jefferson,  when  in  Philadelphia,  on  his  first  mis- 
sion abroad,  was  dressed  in  the  garb  of  his  day  after  this  manner,  to  wit :  he 
wore  a  long  waisted  white  cloth  coat,  scarlet  breeches  and  vest,  a  cocked  hat, 
with  a  black  cockade. 

Even  spectacles,  permanently  useful  as  they  are,  have  been  subject  to  the  ca- 
price of  fashion.  Now  they  are  occasionally  seen  of  gold — a  thing  I  never  saw 
in  my  youth  ;  neither  did  I  ever  see  one  young  man  with  spectacles — now  so  nu- 
merous. A  purblind  or  half-sighted  youth  then  deemed  it  his  positive  disparage- 
ment to  be  so  regarded.  Such  would  have  rather  run  against  a  street  post  six 
times  a  day  than  have  been  seen  with  them.  Indeed,  in  early  olden  time  they 
had  not  the  art  of  using  temple  spectacles.  Old  Mrs.  Shoemaker,  who  died  in 
183"),  at  the  age  of  95,  said  she  had  lived  many  years  in  Philadelphia  before  she 
ever  saw  temple  spectacles — a  name  then  given  as  a  new  discovery,  but  now  so 
common  as  to  have  lost  its  distinctive  character.  In  her  early  years,  the  only 
spectacles  she  ever  saw  were  called  "bridge  spectacles,"  without  any  side  sup- 
porters, and  held  on  the  nose  solely  by  nipping  the  bridge  of  the  nose. 

My  grandmother  wore  a  black  velvet  mask  in  winter,  with  a  silver  mouth-piece 
to  keep  it  on,  by  retaining  it  in  the  mouth.  I  have  been  told  that  green  ones 
have  been  used  in  summer  for  some  few  ladies,  for  riding  in  the  sun  on  horse- 
back. 

Ladies  formerly  wore  cloaks  as  their  chief  overcoats ;  they  were  used  with 
some  changes  of  form  under  the  successive  names  of  roquelaurs,  capuchins,  and 
cardinals. 

In  Mrs.  Shoemaker's  time,  above  named,  they  had  no  knowledge  of  umbrellas 
to  keep  off  rain,  but  she  had  seen  some  few  use  kitisols — an  article  as  small  as 
present  parasols  now.  They  were  entirely  to  keep  off  rain  from  ladies.  They 
were  of  oiled  muslin,  and  of  various  colors.  They  were  imported  from  India  by 
way  of  England.  They  must,  however,  have  been  but  rare,  as  they  never  ap- 
pear in  an}r  advertisements. 

Dr.  Chancellor  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Duche  were  the  first  persons  in  Philadelphia 
who  were  seen  to  wear  umbrellas  to  keep  off  the  rain.  They  were  of  oiled  linen, 
very  coarse  and  clumsy,  with  ratan  sticks.  Before  their  time,  some  doctors  and 
ministers  used  an  oiled  linen  cape,  hooked  round  their  shoulders,  looking  not 
unlike  the  big  coat  capes  now  in  use,  and  then  called  a  roquelaur.  It  was  only 
used  for  severe  storms. 

About  the  year  1771,  the  first  efforts  were  made  in  Philadelphia  to  introduce 
the  use  of  umbrellas  in  summer,  as  a  defence  from  the  sun.  They  were  then 
scouted  in  the  public  gazettes  as  a  ridiculous  effeminacy.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
physicians  recommended  them,  to  keep  of  vertigoes,  epilepsies,  sore  eyes,  fevers, 
etc.  Finally,  as  the  doctors  were  the  chief  patrons,  Doctor  Chancellor  and  Doc- 
tor Morgan,  with  the  Rev.  Parson  Duche,  were  the  first  persons  who  had  the 
hardihood  to  be  so  singular  as  to  wear  umbrellas  in  sunshine.  Mr.  Bingliam, 
when  he  returned  from  the  West  Indies,  where  he  had  amassed  a  great  fortune 


480  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

in  the  Revolution,  appeared  abroad  in  the  streets  attended  by  a  mulatto  boy 
bearing  his  umbrella.     But  his  example  did  not  take,  and  he  desisted  from  its  use. 

HOW  GENERAL  BRADDOCK  WAS  KILLED. 

There  had  long  existed  a  tradition  that  Braddock  was  killed  by  one  of  his  own 
men,  and  more  recent  developments  leave  little  or  no  doubt  of  the  fact.  A  recent 
writer  says  : 

"  When  my  father  was  removing  with  his  family  to  the  west,  one  of  the  Fan- 
setts  kept  a  public  house  to  the  eastward  from,  and  near  where  Uniontown  now 
stands,  as  the  county  seat  of  Fayette,  Pa.  This  man's  house  we  lodged  in  about 
the  10th  of  October,  1781,  twenty-six  years  and  a  few  months  after  Braddock's 
defeat,  and  there  it  was  made  anything  but  a  secret  that  one  of  the  family  dealt 
the  death-blow  to  the  British  general. 

"Thirteen  years  afterwards  I  met  Thomas  Fausett  in  Fayette  county,  then, 
as  he  told  he,  in  his  70th  year.  To  him  I  put  the  plain  question,  and  received  a 
plain  reply,  '  /  did  sJioot  him !  '  He  then  went  on  to  insist,  that,  by  doing  so, 
he  contributed  to  save  what  was  left  of  the  army.  In  brief,  in  my  youth,  I  never 
heard  the  fact  either  doubted  or  blamed,  that  Fausett  shot  Braddock." 

Hon.  Andrew  Stewart,  of  Uniontown,  says  he  knew,  and  often  conversed  with 
Tom  Fausett,  who  did  not  hesitate  to  avow,  in  the  presence  of  his  friends,  that  he 
shot  General  Braddock.  Fausett  was  a  man  of  gigantic  frame,  of  uncivilized  half- 
savage  propensities,  and  spent  most  of  his  life  among  the  mountains,  as  a  hermit, 
living  on  the  game  which  he  killed.  He  would  occasionally  come  into  town,  and 
get  drunk.  Sometimes  he  would  repel  inquiries  into  the  affair  of  Braddock's 
death,  by  putting  his  fingers  to  his  lips  and  uttering  a  sort  of  buzzing  sound  ;  at 
others,  he  would  burst  into  tears,  and  appear  greatly  agitated  by  conflicting 
passions. 

In  spite  of  Br^ddock's  silly  order,  that  the  troops  should  not  protect  themselves 
behind  trees,  Jo*e^ii  Fausett  had  taken  such  a  position,  when  Braddock  rode  up, 
in  a  passion,  and  struck  him  down  with  his  sword.  Tom  Fausett,  who  was  but  a 
short  distance  from  his  brother,  saw  the  whole  transaction,  and  immediately  drew 
up  his  rifle  and  shot  Braddock  through  the  lungs,  partly  in  revenge  for  the  outrage 
upon  his  brother,  and  partly,  as  he  always  alleged,  to  get  the  general  out  of  the 
way,  and  thus  save  the  remainder  of  the  gallant  band,  who  had  been  sacrificed  to 
his  obstinacy  and  want  of  experience  in  frontier  warfare. 

THE  MASSACRE  OF  WYOMING. 

The  year  1776  commenced  a  new  era  in  the  history  of  the  American 
colonies,  and  in  some  measure  gave  peace  to  Wyoming  in  the  midst  of  war, 
by  removing  from  Pennsylvania  the  authority  of  the  proprietaries,  and  royal 
governors.  During  this  interval  of  comparative  repose,  three  companies  of  troops 
were  enlisted  at  Wyoming  for  the  service  of  the  united  colonies.  They  were 
attached  to  the  Connecticut  line,  and  made  part  of  the  troops  of  that  colony.  At 
this  time,  a  full  enumeration  of  the  population  at  Wyoming  was  made,  and  the 
settlements  were  found  to  contain  5000  souls.  Their  militia  at  the  same  time 
amounted  to  1100  men,  capable  of  bearing  arms  ;  and  of  this  force  about  300  en- 
listed to  serve  against  the  common  enemy.  After  their  march,  the  settlers  con- 
tinued to  guard  themselves  with  increased  vigilance.  Regular  garrison  duty  waa 


PENNSYLVANIA.  481 

performed  in  the  several  fortifications  by  classes  of  the  militia  in  successive  order  ; 
in  addition  to  which,  a  patrol  called  the  "Scout,"  was  established  through  the 
valley,  which  was  on  duty  night  and  day  in  succession,  exploring  all  thickets  and 
unfrequented  grounds,  in  search  of  any  lurking  enemy  which  might  have  come 
to  disturb  their  peace,  or  spy  out  the  land. 

The  frontier  settlements  of  the  different  colonies  were  at  this  time  continually 
harassed  by  incursive  parties  of  British  troops  and  Indians  from  Canada ;  and 
the  surrender  of  General  Burgoyne,  which  took  place  in  October,  1777,  did  not 
produce  an  abandonment  of  the  s}rstem.  Early  in  the  spring  of  1778,  a  force 
consisting  of  about  800  men,  and  composed  of  British  regulars,  tories,  and  In- 
dians, under  the  command  of  Colonel  John  Butler,  assembled  at  Niagara,  and 
marched  to  the  reduction  of  Wyoming.  The  Indians  were  in  number  about  400, 
and  were  commanded  by  Brandt,  a  warlike  chief  of  mixed  blood.  At  Tioga 
Point,  these  troops  procured  boats  and  rafts  of  wood,  upon  which  they  floated 
down  the  Susquehanna  until  they  arrived  about  20  miles  above  Wyoming  Fort. 
Here  they  landed,  the  latter  part  of  June.  On  the  evening  of  the  3d  of  July,  they 
took  possession  of  a  fort  which  the  settlers  had  built  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
about  a  mile  below  the  head  of  the  valley,  called  Fort  Wintermoot.  From  this 
fort,  which  the  British  commander  made  his  headquarters,  were  sent  small  scout- 
ing parties  in  search  of  plunder  and  provisions,  as  well  as  to  ascertain  the  situa- 
tion and  strength  of  the  force  which  remained  for  the  defence  of  the  settlement. 

Upon  the  arrival  of  these  troops,  the  settlers  collected  their  principal  forces  in 
a  fortification  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  at  a  large  eddy  in  the  stream 
below  Monockonock  Island,  and  about  3  miles  above  Wyoming  Fort.  This  fort 
had  been  built  and  defended  by  40  of  the  settlers  in  that  vicinity,  and  had  thence 
obtained  the  name  of  "Forty  Fort."  The  garrison,  now  assembled  here,  con- 
sisted of  the  most  active  of  the  settlers,  and  amounted  to  368  men,  a  small  party 
being  left  in  the  other  forts  for  the  protection  of  the  settlement  in  their  immediate 
vicinity.  About  a  month  previous,  messengers  had  been  sent  from  the  settlers 
to  the  continental  army,  to  inform  the  commander-in-chief  of  their  situation,  and 
to  request  that  a  detachment  might  be  sent  to  their  assistance. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  July,  the  officers  of  the  garrison  at  Forty  Fort 
held  a  council  to  determine  on  the  propriety  of  marching  from  the  fort,  and 
attacking  the  enemy  wherever  found.  The  debates  in  this  council  of  war  are 
said  to  have  been  conducted  with  much  warmth  and  animation.  The  ultimate 
determination  was  one  on  which  depended  the  lives  of  the  garrison,  and  the  safety 
of  the  settlements.  On  one  side  it  was  contended  that  their  enemies  were  daily 
increasing  in  numbers — that  they  would  plunder  the  settlements  of  all  kinds  of 
property,  and  would  accumulate  the  means  of  carrying  on  the  war,  while  they 
themselves  would  become  weaker ;  that  the  harvest  would  soon  be  ripe,  and 
would  be  gathered  or  destroyed  by  their  enemies,  and  all  their  means  of  suste- 
nance during  the  succeeding  winter  would  fail ;  that  probably  all  their  messengers 
were  killed,  and  as  there  had  been  more  than  sufficient  time,  and  no  assistance 
arrived,  they  would  probably  receive  none,  and  consequently  now  was  the  proper 
time  to  make  the  attack.  On  the  other  side  it  was  argued,  that  probably  some  or 
all  of  the  messengers  may  have  arrived  at  headquarters,  but  that  the  absence  of 
the  commander-in-chief  may  have  produced  delay  ;  that  one  or  two  weeks  more 
may  bring  the  desired  assistance,  and  that  to  attack  the  enemy,  superior  as  they 
were  in  number,  out  of  the  limits  of  their  own  fort,  would  produce  almost  certain 
destruction  to  the  settlement  and  themselves,  and  captivity  and  slavery — perhaps 
31 


482  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

torture,  to  their  wives  aiid  children.  While  these  debates  were  progressing,  five 
men  belonging  to  Wyoming,  but,  who,  at  that  time,  held  commissions  in  the  con- 
tinental army,  arrived  at  the  fort.  They  had  received  information  that  a  force 
from  Niagara  had  marched  to  destroy  the  settlements  on  the  Susqnehanna,  and 
being  unable  to  bring  with  them  any  reinforcements,  they  resigned  their  appoint- 
ments and  hastened  immediately  to  the  protection  of  their  families.  They  had 
heard  nothing  of  the  messengers,  neither  could  they  give  any  certain  information 
as  to  the  probability  of  relief. 

The  prospects  of  receiving  assistance  became  now  extremely  uncertain.  The 
advocates  for  the  attack  prevailed  in  the  council ;  and  at  dawn  of  day,  on  the 
morning  of  the  3d  of  July,  the  garrison  left  the  fort,  and  began  their  march  up 
the  river,  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Zebulon  Butler.  Having  proceeded 
about  2  miles,  the  troops  halted  for  the  purpose  of  detaching  a  reconnoitering 
party  to  ascertain  the  situation  of  the  enemy.  Colonel  Butler  rode  along  the  flank 
of  the  column  to  invite  volunteers  for  this  service.  Abraham  Pike  and  an  Irish 
companion  offered  their  services,  and  they  being  the  only  volunteers,  were 
accepted.  The  scout  found  the  enemy  in  possession  of  Fort  Wintermoot,  and 
occupying  huts  immediately  around  it,  carousing  in  supposed  security  ;  but  on 
their  return  to  the  advancing  column,  they  met  two  strolling  Indians,  by  whom 
they  were  fired  upon,  and  upon  whom  they  immediately  returned  the  fire  without 
effect.  The  settlers  hastened  their  march  for  the  attack,  but  the  Indians  had 
given  the  alarm,  and  the  advancing  troops  found  the  enemy  already  formed  in 
order  of  battle  a  small  distance  from  their  fort,  with  their  right  flank  covered  by 
a  swamp,  and  their  left  resting  upon  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  settlers  imme- 
diately displayed  their  column,  and  formed  in  corresponding  order ;  but  as  the 
enemy  was  much  superior  in  numbers,  their  line  was  much  more  extensive.  Pine 
woods  and  bushes  covered  the  battle-ground  ;  in  consequence  of  which,  the  move- 
ments of  the  troops  could  not  be  so  quickly  discovered,  nor  so  well  ascertained. 
Colonel  Zebulon  Butler  had  command  of  the  right,  and  was  opposed  by  Colonel 
John  Butler  at  the  head  of  the  British  troops  on  the  left.  Colonel  Nathan  Deni^ 
son  commanded  the  left,  opposed  by  Brandt  at  the  head  of  his  Indians  on  the 
enemy's  right.  The  battle  commenced  at  about  40  rods  distant,  and  continued 
about  15  minutes  through  the  woods  and  brush  without  much  execution.  At  this 
time,  Brandt,  with  his  Indians,  having  penetrated  the  swamp,  turned  the  left 
flank  of  the  settlers'  line,  and  with  a  terrible  war-whoop  and  savage  yell,  made 
a  desperate  charge  upon  the  troops  composing  that  wing,  which  fell  very  fast, 
and  were  immediately  cut  to  pieces  with  the  tomahawk.  Colonel  Denison  having 
asce/tained  that  the  savages  were  gaining  the  rear  of  the  left,  gave  orders  for  that 
wing  to  fall  back,  in  order  to  prevent  being  surrounded  by  the  enemy.  At  the 
same  time,  Colonel  John  Butler  finding  that  the  line  of  the  settlers  did  not  ex- 
tend as  far  towards  the  river  as  his  own,  doubled  that  end  of  his  line,  which  was 
protected  by  a  thick  growth  of  brushwood,  and  having  brought  a  party  of  his 
British  regulars  to  act  in  column  upon  that  wing,  threw  Colonel  Zebulon  Butler's 
troops  into  some  confusion. 

The  orders  of  Colonel  Denison  for  his  troops  to  fall  back  having  been  under- 
stood by  many  to  mean  a  retreat,  the  troops  began  to  retire  in  much  disorder. 
The  savages  considered  this  as  a  flight,  and  commenced  a  most  hideous  yell, 
rushed  forward  with  their  rifles  and  tomahawks,  and  cut  the  retiring  line  to 
pieces.  In  this  situation,  it  was  found  impossible  to  rally  and  form  the  troops, 
and  the  rout  became  general  throughout  the  line.  The  settlers  fled  in  every  direc- 


PENNSYLVANIA.  483 

tion,  and  were  instantly  followed  by  the  savages,  who  killed  or  took  prisoners 
whoever  came  within  their  reach.  Some  succeeded  in  reaching  the  river,  and 
escaped  by  swimming  across  ;  others  fled  to  the  mountains ;  and  the  savages, 
too  much  occupied  with  plunder,  gave  up.  the  pursuit.  When  the  first  intelli- 
gence was  received  in  the  village  of  Wilkesbarre  that  the  battle  was  lost,  the 
women  fled  with  their  children  to  the  mountains,  on  their  way  to  the  settlements 
on  the  Delaware,  where  many  of  them  at  length  arrived  after  suffering  extreme 
hardships.  Many  of  the  men  who  escaped  the  battle,  together  with  their  women 
and  children,  who  were  unable  to  travel  on  foot,  took  refuge  in  Wyoming  Fort, 
and  on  the  following  day,  July  4th,  Butler  and  Brandt,  at  the  head  of  their  combined 
forces,  appeared  before  the  fort  and  demanded  its  surrender.  The  garrison  being 
without  any  efficient  means  of  defence,  surrendered  the  fort  on  articles  of  capitu- 
lation, by  which  the  settlers,  upon  giving  up  their  fortifications,  prisoners,  and 
military  stores,  were  to  remain  in  the  country  unmolested,  provided  they  did  not 
again  take  up  arms. 

In  this  battle,  about  300  of  the  settlers  were  killed  or  missing,  and  from  a  great 
part  of  whom  no  intelligence  was  ever  afterwards  received.  The  officers  killed 
were,  1  lieutenant-colonel,  1  major,  10  captains,  6  lieutenants,  and  2  ensigns. 

A  considerable  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  different  settlements  on  the 
Susquehanna,  who,  from  their  attachment  to  the  British  cause,  were  denominated 
tories,  joined  the  British  and  sa\iagc  troops  previous  to  the  battle,  and  exhibited 
instances  of  the  most  savage  barbarity  in  the  manner  in  which  they  carried  on 
the  war  against  their  former  neighbors  and  friends.  One  instance  may  serve  to 
show  the  desperate  feelings  which  those  times  produced  A  short  distance  below 
the  battle-ground,  there  is  a  large  island  in  the  river  called  "Monockonock 
Island."  Several  of  the  settlers,  while  the  battle  and  pursuit  continued,  suc- 
ceeded in  swimming  to  this  island,  where  they  concealed  themselves  among  the 
logs  and  brushwood  upon  it.  Their  arms  had  been  thrown  away  in  their  flight, 
previous  to  their  entering  the  river,  so  that  they  were  in  a  manner  defenceless. 
Two  of  them  in  particular  were  concealed  near  and  in  sight  of  each  other.  While 
in  this  situation,  they  observed  several  of  the  enemy  who  had  pursued  and  fired 
at  them  while  they  were  swimming  the  river,  preparing  to  follow  them  to  the 
island  with  their  guns.  On  reaching  the  island  they  immediately  wiped  their 
guns  and  loaded  them.  One  of  them  with  his  loaded  gun  soon  passed  close  by 
one  of  these  men  who  lay  concealed  from  his  view,  and  was  immediately  recog- 
nized by  him  to  be  the  brother  of  his  companion  who  was  concealed  near  him, 
but  who,  being  a  tory,  had  joined  the  enemy.  He  passed  slowly  along,  carefully 
examining  every  covert,  and  directly  perceived  his  brother  in  his  place  of  con- 
cealment. He  suddenly  stopped  and  said,  "so  it  is  you,  is  it?"  His  brother 
finding  that  he  was  discovered,  immediately  came  forward  a  few  steps,  and  falling 
on  his  knees,  begged  him  to  spare  his  life,  promising  to  live  with  him  and  serve 
him,  and  even  to  be  his  slave  as  long  as  he  lived,  if  he  would  only  spare  his  life. 
"All  this  is  mighty  good,"  replied  the  savage-hearted  brother  of  the  supplicating 
man,  "  but  you  are  a  d — d  rebel ;  "  and  deliberately  presenting  his  rifle,  shot  him 
dead  upon  the  spot.  The  other  settler  made  his  escape  from  the  island,  and 
having  related  this  fact,  the  tory  brother  thought  it  prudent  to  accompany  the 
British  troops  on  their  return  to  Canada. 

The  conditions  of  the  capitulation  were  entirely  disregarded  by  the  British  and 
savage  forces,  and  after  the  fort  was  delivered  up,  all  kinds  of  barbarities  were 
committed  by  them.  The  village  of  Wilkesbarre,  consisting  of  23  houses,  was 


434  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

burnt ;  men  and  their  wives  were  separated  from  each  other  and  carried  into 
captivity  ;  their  property  was  plundered  and  the  settlement  laid  waste.  The 
remainder  of  the  inhabitants  were  driven  from  the  Valley,  and  compelled  to 
proceed  on  foot  60  miles  through  the  great  swamp  almost  without  food  or  cloth- 
ing. A  number  perished  in  the  journey,  principally  women  and  children — some 
died  of  their  wounds,  others  wandered  from  the  path  in  search  of  food  and  were 
lost,  and  those  who  survived,  called  the  wilderness  through  which  they  passed, 
"TJie  /Shades  of  Death;"  an  appellation  which  it  has  since  retained.  On  their 
way  through  the  swamp,  the  unhappy  fugitives  met  a  detachment  of  regular 
troops  from  the  continental  army  under  the  command  of  Captain  Spalding, 
which,  in  consequence  of  the  representations  made  by  the  messengers  had  been 
sent  to  the  relief  of  the  inhabitants  at  Wyoming ;  but  as  all  was  now  lost,  they 
returned  to  the  Delaware,  and  the  remnant  of  the  inhabitants  proceeded  to  their 
former  homes  in  Connecticut. 

THE  SERMON  BEFORE  THE  BRANDYWINE. 

There  are  contradictory  opinions  about  the  following  sermon,  said  to  be  deliv- 
ered on  the  eve  of  the  battle  of  Brandywine.  Hence  I  give  it  without  comments, 
just  as  I  find  it.  The  name'  of  the  chaplain  is  said  to  have  been  Trout. 

"  They  that  take  tlie  sioord  shall  perish  by  Ifte  sword!'1'' — Matt.  xxvi.  52. 

"  SOLDIERS  AND  COUNTRYMEN  I  We  have  met  this  evening,  perhaps  for  the 
last  time.  We  have  shared  the  toil  of  the  march,  the  peril  of  the  fight,  the  dismay 
of  the  retreat — alike  we  have  endured  cold  and  hunger,  the  contumely  of  the 
internal  foe,  and  outrage  of  the  foreign  oppressor.  We  have  sat  night  after 
night,  beside  the  same  camp  fire,  shared  the  same  rough  soldiers'  fare  ;— we  have 
together  heard  the  roll  of  the  reveille  which  called  us  to  duty,  or  the  beat  of  the 
tattoo  which  gave  the  signal  for  the  hardy  sleep  of  the  soldier,  with  the  earth  for 
his  bed,  and  his  knapsack  for  a  pillow.  And  now,  soldiers  and  brethren,  we  have 
met  in  the  peaceful  valley,  on  the  eve  of  the  battle,  while  the  sunlight  is  dying 
away  behind  yonder  heights,  the  sunlight  that  to-morrow  morn  will  glimmer  on 
scenes  of  blood.  We  have  met  amid  the  whitening  tents  of  our  encampment ;  in 
times  of  terror  and  gloom  have  we  gathered  together.  God  grant  it  may  not  be 
for  the  last  time. 

"  It  is  a  solemn  moment.  Brethren,  does  not  the  solemn  voice  of  nature  seem 
to  echo  the  sympathies  of  the  town  ?  The  flag  of  our  country  droops  heavily 
from  yonder  staff.  The  breeze  has  died  away  along  the  green  plain  of  Chadd's 
Ford — the  plain  that  spreads  before  us  glistening  in  sunlight — the  heights  of  the 
Brandywine  arise  dark  and  gloomy  beyond  the  waters  of  yonder  stream,  and  all 
nature  holds  a  pause  of  solemn  silence  on  the  eve  of  the  uproar  of  the  bloodshed 
and  strife  of  to-morrow. 

'"They  that  take  the  sword  shall  perish  by  the  sword;'  and  have  they  not 
.taken  the  sword  ? 

"  Let  the  blood-stained  valley — the  desolated  homes — the  burned  farm  house — 
the  murdered  farmer — let  the  whitening  bones  of  our  own  countrymen  answer  ! 
Let  the  starving  mother  with  the  babe  clinging  to  her  withered  breast,  let  her 
answer — with  the  death  rattle  mingling  with  the  murmuring  tones  that  mark  the 
last  struggle  for  life ;  let  the  dying  mother  and  her  babe  answer  ! 
,.  "  It  was  but  a  day  past,  and  our  land  sl.ept.iii  the  light  of  peace.  War  was  no,t 


PENNSYLVANIA.  485 

here,  wrong  was  not  here.  Fraud,  and  woe,  and  misery  and  want  dwelt  not 
among  us.  From  the  eternal  solitude  of  the  green  woods,  arose  the  blue  smoke 
of  the  settler's  cabin  ;  and  golden  fields  of  corn  looked  forth  from  amid  the  waste 
of  the  wilderness,  and  the  glad  music  of  human  voices  awoke  the  silence  of  the 
forest. 

"  Now  !  God  of  mercy  !  Behold  the  change.  Under  the  shadow  of  a  pretext, 
under  the  sanctity  of  the  name  of  God — invoking  the  Redeemer  to  their  aid,  do 
these  foreign  hirelings  slay  our  people.  They  throng  our  towns,  they  darken 
our  plains,  and  now  they  encompass  our  posts  on  the  lonely  plain  of  Chadd's 
Ford. 

"'They  that  take  the  sword  shall  perish  by  the  sword.'  Brethren  !  think  me 
not  unworthy  of  belief,  when  I  tell  you  that  the  doom  of  the  Britisher  is  near  ! 
Think  me  not  vain  when  I  tell  you  that  beyond  the  cloud  which  now  enshrouds 
us,  I  see  gathering  thick  and  fast,  the  darker  cloud  and  the  blacker  storm  of 
Divine  Retribution  !  They  may  conquer  us  on  the  morrow  ! — might  and  wrong 
may  prevail,  and  we  may  be  driven  from  the  field — but  the  hour  of  God's  ven- 
geance will  conic  !  Aye,  if  in  the  vast  solitudes  of  eternal  space,  if  in  the  heart 
of  the  boundless  universe,  there  throbs  the  being  of  an  awful  God,  quick  to 
revenge  and  sure  to  punish  guilt,  there  will  the  man,  George  of  Brunswick, 
called  king,  feel  in  his  brain  and  in  his  heart  the  vengeance  of  the  eternal  Jeho- 
vah !  a  blight  will  be  upon  his  life — a  withered  brain,  an  accursed  intellect ;  n, 
blight  will  be  upon  his  children,  and  his  people.  Great  God  !  how  dread  thy 
punishment ! 

"  Soldiers  !  I  look  around  upon  your  familiar  faces  with  a  strange  interest. 
To-morrow  we  will  all  go  forth  to  battle — for  need  I  tell  you  that  your  unworthy 
minister  will  march  with  you,  invoking  God's  aid  in  the  fight.  We  will  march 
forth  to  battle.  Need  I  exhort  you  to  fight  the  good  fight  for  your  homesteads, 
your  wives,  and  your  children  ? 

"  And  in  the  hour  of  battle  when  all  around  is  darkness,  lit  by  the  lurid  cannon 
glare,  and  the  piercing  musket  flash,  when  the  wounded  strew  the  ground  and 
the  dead  litter  your  path  ;  then  remember,  soldiers,  that  God  is  with  you.  The 
eternal  God  is  with  you,  and  fights  for  you.  God  !  the  awful,  the  infinite,  fights 
for  you,  and  you  \vill  triumph. 

'"They  that  take  the  sword  shall  perish  by  the  sword.' 

"You  have  taken  the  sword;  but  not  in  the  spirit  of  wrong  and  revenge. 
You  have  taken  the  sword  for  your  homes,  for  your  wives,  and  for  your  little 
ones.  You  have  taken  the  sword  for  truth,  for  justice,  and  for  right,  and  to  you 
the  promise  is,  be  of  good  cheer,  for  your  foes  have  taken  the  sword  in  defiance 
of  all  man  holds  dear.  They  shall  perish  by  the  sword. 

"And  now,  brethren  and  soldiers,  I  bid  you  all  farewell.  Many  of  us  may 
fall  in  the  fight  of  to-morrow.  God  rest  the  souls  of  the  fallen — many  of  us  may 
live  to  tell  the  story  of  the  fight  of  to-morrow,  and  in  the  memory  of  all  will  rest 
the  quiet  scenes  of  this  autumnal  night. 

"  Solemn  twilight  advances  over  the  valley  ;  the  woods  on  the  opposite  heights 
fling  their  long  shadows  over  the  green  of  the  meadow — around  us  arc  the  tents 
of  the  continental  host — the  suppressed  bustle  of  the  camp,  the  hurried  tread  of 
the  soldiers  to  and  fro  among  the  tents,  the  stillness  that  marks  the  eve  01  battle. 

"  When  we  meet  again,  may  the  long  shadows  of  twilight  be  flung  over  a 
peaceful  land.  God  in  heaven  grant  it !  Amen." 


486  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE  BATTLE  OF  THE  BRANDYWINE,  SEPT.  llth,  1777. 

The  American  army,  in  order  to  encourage  the  partisans  of  independence  and 
overawe  the  disaffected,  marched  through  the  city  of  Philadelphia ;  it  afterwards 
advanced  towards  the  enemy,  and  encamped  behind  White  Clay  Creek.  A  little 
after,  leaving  only  the  riflemen  in  the  camp,  Washington  retired  with  the  main 
body  of  his  army  behind  the  Red  Clay  Creek,  occupying  with  his  right  wing' the 
town  of  Newport,  situated  near  the  Christiana,  and  upon  the  great  road  to  Phila- 
delphia ;  his  left  was  at  Hockesen.  But  this  line  was  little  capable  of  defence. 

The  enemy,  reinforced  by  the  rear  guard  under  General  Grant,  threatened  v,  ith 
liis  right  the  centre  of  the  Americans,  extended  his  left  as  if  with  the  intention 
of  turning  their  right  flank.  Washington  saw  the  danger,  and  retired  with  his 
troops  behind  the  Brandy  wine  ;  he  encamped  on  the  rising  grounds  which  extend 
from  Chadsford,  in  the  direction  of  northwest  to  southeast.  The  riflemen  of  Max- 
well scoured  the  right  bank  of  the  Brandywine,  in  order  to  harass  and  retard 
the  enemy.  The  militia  under  the  command  of  General  Armstrong,  guarded  a 
passage  below  the  principal  encampment  of  Washington,  and  the  right  wing 
lined  the  banks  of  the  river  higher  up,  where  the  passages  were  more  difficult. 
The  passage  of  Chadsford,  as  the  most  practicable  of  all,  was  defended  by  the 
chief  force  of  the  army.  The  troops  being  thus  disposed,  the  American  general 
waited  the  approach  of  the  English.  Although  the  Brandywine,  being  fordable 
almost  everywhere,  could  not  serve  as  a  sufficient  defence  against  the  impetuosity 
of  the  enemy,  yet  Washington  had  taken  post  upon  its  banks,  from  a  conviction 
that  a  battle  was  now  inevitable,  and  that  Philadelphia  could  only  be  saved  by  a 
victory.  General  Howe  displayed  the  front  of  his  army,  but  not  however  with- 
out great  circumspection.  Being  arrived  at  Kennen  Square,  a  short  distance 
from  the  river,  he  detached  his  light-horse  to  the  right  upon  Wilmington,  to  the 
left  upon  Lancaster  road,  and  in  front  towards  Chadsford.  The  two  armies  found 
themselves  writhin  7  miles  of  each  other,  the  Brandywine  flowing  between  them. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  llth  of  September,  the  British  army  marched  to 
the  enemy.  Howe  had  formed  his  army  in  two  columns  ;  the  right  commanded 
by  General  Knyphausen,  the  left  by  Lord  Cornwallis.  His  plan  was,  that 
while  the  first  sliould  make  repeated  feints  to  attempt  the  passage  of  Chadsford, 
in  order  to  occupy  the  attention  of  the  republicans,  the  second  should  take  a  long 
circuit  to  the  upper  part  of  the  river,  and  cross  at  a  place  where  it  is  divided  into 
two  shallow  streams.  The  English  marksmen  fell  in  with  those  of  Maxwell,  and 
a  smart  skirmish  was  immediately  engaged.  The  latter  were  at  first  repulsed  ; 
but  being  reinforced  from  the  camp,  they  compelled  the  English  to  retire  in  their 
turn.  But  at  length,  they  also  were  reinforced,  and  Maxwell  was  constrained  to 
withdraw  his  detachment  behind  the  river.  Meanwhile,  Knyphausen  advanced 
with  his  column,  and  commenced  a  furious  cannonade  upon  the  passage  of  Chads- 
ford,  making  all  his  dispositions  as  if  he  intended  to  force  it.  The  Americans 
defended  themselves  with  gallantry,  and  even  passed  several  detachments  of 
light  troops  to  the  other  side,  in  order  to  harass  the  enemy's  flanks.  But  after  a 
course  of  skirmishes,  sometimes  advancing,  and  at  others  obliged  to  retire, 
they  were  finally,  with  an  eager  pursuit,  driven  over  the  river.  Knyphausen 
then  appeared  more  than  ever  determined  to  pass  the  ford  ;  he  stormed  and  kept 
up  an  incredible  noise.  In  this  manner  the  attention  of  the  Americans  was  fully 
occupied  in  the  neighborhood  of  Chadsford.  Meanwhile,  Lord  Cornwallis,  at 


PENNSYLVANIA.  437 

the  head  of  the  second  column,  took  a  circuitous  march  to  the  left,  and  gained 
unperceived  the  forks  of  the  Brandywine.  By  this  rapid  movement,  he  passed 
both  branches  of  the  river  at  Trimble's  and  at  Jeffery's  fords,  without  opposition, 
about  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  then  turning  short  down  the  river  took  the 
road  to  Dilworth,  in  order  to  fall  upon  the  right  flank  of  the  American  army. 
The  republican  general,  however,  received  intelligence  of  this  movement  about 
noon,  and,  as  it  usually  happens  in  similar  cases,  the  reports  exaggerated  its  im- 
portance exceedingly  ;  it  being  represented  that  General  Howe  commanded  this 
division  in  person.  Washington  therefore  decided  immediately  for  the  most  judi- 
cious, though  boldest  measure;  this  was,  to  pass  the  river  with  the  centre  and 
left  wing  of  his  army,  and  overwhelm  Knyphausen  by  the  most  furious  attack. 
He  justly  reflected  that  the  advantage  he  should  obtain  upon  the  enemy's  right 
would  amply  compensate  the  loss  that  his  own  might  sustain  at  the  same  time. 
Accordingly  he  ordered  General  Sullivan  to  pass  the  Brandywine  with  his  division 
at  an  upper  ford,  and  attack  the  left  of  Knyphausen,  while  he,  in  person,  should 
cross  lower  down  and  fall  upon  the  right  of  the  general. 

They  were  both  already  in  motion  in  order  to  execute  this  design,  when  a 
second  report  arrived,  which  represented  what  had  really  taken  place  as  false, 
or  in  other  words,  that  the  enemy  had  not  crossed  the  two  branches  of  the  river, 
and  that  he  had  not  made  his  appearance  upon  the  right  flank  of  the  American 
troops.  Deceived  by  this  false  intelligence,  Washington  desisted  ;  and  Greene, 
who  had  already  passed  with  the  vanguard,  was  ordered  back.  In  the  midst  of 
these  uncertainties,  the  commander-in -chief  at  length  received  positive  assur- 
ance, not  only  that  the  English  had  appeared  upon  the  left  bank,  but  also  that 
they  were  about  to  fall  in  great  force  upon  the  right  wing.  It  was  composed  of 
the  brigades  of  generals  Stephens,  Sterling,  and  Sullivan  ;  the  first  was  the  most 
advanced,  and  consequently  nearest  to  the  English  ;  the  two  others  were  posted 
in  the  order  of  their  rank,  that  of  Sullivan  being  next  to  the  centre.  This  gene- 
ral was  immediately  detached  from  the  main  body,  to  support  the  former  brigades, 
and  being  the  senior  officer,  took  the  command  of  the  whole  wing.  Washington 
himself,  followed  by  General  Greene,  approached  with  two  strong  divisions  to- 
wards this  wing,  and  posted  himself  between  it  and  the  corps  he  had  left  at  Chads- 
ford,  under  General  Wayne,  to  oppose  the  passage  of  Knyphausen.  These  two 
divisions,  under  the  immediate  orders  of  the  commander-in-chief,  served  as  a 
corps  of  reserve,  ready  to  march,  according  to  circumstances,  to  the  succor  of 
Sullivan  or  of  Wayne. 

But  the  column  of  Cornwallis  was  aready  in  sight  of  the  Americans.  Sullivan 
drew  up  his  troops  on  the'  commanding  ground  above  Birmingham  meeting- 
house, with  his  left  extending  towards  the  Brandywine,  and  both  his  flanks 
covered  with  very  thick  woods.  His  artillery  was  advantageously  planted  upon 
the  neighboring  hills  ;  but  it  appears  that  Sullivan's  own  brigade,  having  taken  a 
long  circuit,  arrived  too  late  upon  the  field  of  battle,  and  had  not  yet  occupied 
the  position  assigned  it,  when  the  action  commenced.  The  English  having  recon- 
noitred the  dispositions  of  the  Americans,  immediately  formed,  and  fell  upon  them 
with  the  utmost  impetuosity.  The  engagement  became  equally  fierce  on  both 
sides  about  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  For  some  length  of  time  the  Americans 
defended  themselves  with  great  valor,  and  the  carnage  was  terrible.  But  such  was 
the  emulation  which  invigorated  the  efforts  of  the  English  and  Hessians,  that  neither 
the  advantages  of  the  situation,  nor  a  heavy  and  well  supported  fire  of  small  arms 
and  artillery,  nor  the  unshaken  courage  of  the  Americans,  were  able  to  resist  their 


488  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

impetuosity.  The  light  infantry,  chasseurs,  grenadiers,  and  guards  threw  them- 
selves with  such  fury  into  the  midst  of  the  republican  battalions,  that  they  were 
forced  to  give  way.  Their  left  flank  was  first  thrown  into  confusion,  but  the 
rout  soon  became  general.  The  vanquished  fled  into  the  woods  in  their  rear  ;  the 
victors  pursued,  and  advanced  by  the  great  road  towards  Dilworth.  On  the  first 
fire  of  the  artillery,  Washington,  having  no  doubt  of  what  was  passing,  had 
pushed  forward  the  reserve  to  the  succor  of  Sullivan.  But  this  corps,  on  ap- 
proaching the  field  of  battle,  fell  in  with  the  flying  soldiers  of  Sullivan  and  per- 
ceived that  no  hope  remained  of  retrieving  the  fortune  of  the  day.  General 
Greene,  by  a  judicious  manoeuvre,  opened  his  ranks  to  receive  the  fugitives,  and 
after  their  passage  having  closed  them  anew,  he  retired  in  good  order  ;  checking 
the  pursuit  of  the  enemy  by  a  continual  fire  of  the  artillery  which  covered  his 
rear.  Having  come  to  a  defile,  covered  on  both  sides  by  the  woods,  he  drew  up 
his  men  there,  and  again  faced  the  enemy.  His  corps  was  composed  of  Vir- 
ginians and  Pennsylvanians ;  they  defended  themselves  with  gallantry  ;  the 
former  especially,  commanded  by  Colonel  Stephens,  made  a  heroic  stand. 

Knyphausen  finding  the  Americans  to  be  fully  engaged  on  their  right,  and  ob- 
serving that  the  corps  opposed  to  him  at  Chadsford  was  enfeebled  by  the  troops 
which  had  been  detached  to  the  succor  of  Sullivan,  began  to  make  dispositions 
for  crossing  the  river  in  reality.  The  passage  at  Chadsford  was  defended  by  an 
intrenchment  and  battery.  The  republicans  stood  firm  at  first ;  but  upon  intelli- 
gence of  'the  defeat  of  their  right,  and  seeing  some  of  the  British  troops  who 
had  penetrated  through  the  woods,  come  out  upon  their  flank,  they  retired  in 
disorder,  abandoning  their  artillery  and  munitions  to  the  German  general.  In 
their  retreat,  or  rather  flight,  they  passed  behind  the  position  of  General  Greene, 
who  still  defended  himself,  and  was  the  last  to  quit  the  field  of  battle.  Finally, 
it  being  already  dark,  after  a  long  and  obstinate  conflict,  he  also  retired.  The 
whole  army  retreated  that  night  to  Chester,  and  the  day  following  to  Philadelphia. 

There  the  fugitives  arrived  incessantly,  having  effected  their  escape  through 
by-ways  and  circuitous  routes.  The  victors  passed  the  night  on  the  field  of  battle. 
If  darkness  had  not  arrived  seasonably,  it  is  very  probable  that  the  whole  Ameri- 
can army  would  have  been  destroyed.  The  loss  of  the  republicans  was  com- 
puted at  about  300  killed,  600  wounded,  and  near  400  taken  prisoners.  They  also 
lost  ten  field-pieces  and  a  howitzer.  The  loss  in  the  royal  army  was  not  in  pro- 
portion, being  something  under  500,  of  which  the  slain  did  not  amount  to  one-fifth. 


ADAM  POE'S  FIGHT  WITH  THE  INDIANS. 

A   REMINISCENCE   OF   THE   EARLY   HISTORY   OF   PITTSBURG. 

About  the  year  1782,  six  or  seven  Wyandotte  Indians  crossed  over  to  the  south 
side  of  the  Ohio  River,  50  miles  below  Pittsburg,  and  in  their  hostile  excursions 
among  our  early  settlers  killed  an  old  man,  whom  they  found  alone  in  one  of  the 
houses  which  they  plundered.  The  news  soon  spread  among  the  white  people, 
seven  or  eight  of  whom  seized  their  rifles  and  pursued  the  marauders.  In  this 
party  were  two  brothers  named  Adam  and  Andrew  Poe,  strong  and  active  men, 
and  much  respected  in  the  settlement.  The  Indians  had  frequently  been  over 
before,  had  sometimes  penetrated  20  miles  into  the  country,  and  had  always  suc- 
ceeded in  recrossing  the  river  without  being  overtaken  by  our  people.  The  Poes 
and  their  companions  were,  therefore,  particularly  anxious  not  to  let  them  escape 


PENNSYLVANIA.  489 

on  this  occasion.  They  pursued  them  all  night,  and  in  the  morning  found  them- 
selves, as  they  expected,  upon  the  right  track.  The  Indians  could  now  be  easily 
followed  by  the  traces  left  upon  the  dew.  The  print  of  one  very  large  foot  was 
seen,  and  it  was  thus  known  that  a  famous  Indian  of  uncommon  size  and  strength 
must  be  of  the  party.  The  track  led  to  the  river.  Our  people  followed  it  di- 
rectly, Adam  Poe  excepted,  who  feared  that  they  might  be  taken  by  surprise,  and 
broke  off  from  the  rest  to  go  along  on  the  edge  of  the  bank,  under  the  cover  of 
trees  and  bushes,  and  to  fall  upon  the  savages  suddenly  that  he  might  get  them 
between  his  own  fire  and  that  of  his  companions.  At  the  point  where  he  sus- 
pected they  were,  he  saw  the  rafts,  which  they  were  accustomed  to  push  before 
them  when  they  swam  the  river,  and  on  which  they  placed  their  blankets,  toma- 
hawks, and  guns.  The  Indians  themselves  he  could  not  see,  and  was  obliged  to 
go  partly  down  the  bank  to  get  a  shot  at  them.  As  he  descended,  with  his  rifle 
cocked,  he  discovered  two,  the  celebrated  large  Indian  and  a  smaller  one,  sepa- 
rated from  the  others,  holding  their  rifles  also  cocked  in  their  hands.  He  took 
aim  at  the  large  one,  but  his  rifle  snapped  without  giving  the  intended  fire.  The 
Indians  turned  instantly  at  the  sound.  Poe  was  too  near  them  to  retreat,  and 
had  not  time  to  cock  and  take  aim  again.  Suddenly  he  leaped  down  upon  them, 
and  caught  the  large  Indian  by  the  clothes  on  his  breast,  and  the  small  one  by 
throwing  an  arm  round  his  neck.  They  all  fell  together,  but  Poe  was  uppermost. 
While  he  was  struggling  to  keep  down  the  large  Indian,  the  small  one,  at  a  word 
spoken  by  his  fellow  savage,  slipped  his  neck  out  of  Poe's  embrace,  and  ran  to 
the  raft  for  a  tomahawk.  The  large  Indian  at  this  moment  threw  his  arms  about 
Poe's  body,  and  held  him  fast  that  the  other  might  come  and  kill  him.  Poe 
watched  the  approach  and  the  descending  arm  of  the  small  Indian  so  well  that  at 
the  instant  of  the  intended  stroke  he  raised  his  foot,  and  by  a  vigorous  and  skilful 
blow  knocked  the  tomahawk  from  the  assailant's  hand.  At  this  the  large  Indian 
cried  out  with  an  exclamation  of  contempt  for  the  small  one.  The  latter,  how- 
ever, caught  his  tomahawk  again,  and  approached  more  cautiously,  waving  his 
arm  up  and  down  with  mock  blows  to  deceive  Poe  as  to  the  stroke  which  was 
intended  to  be  real  and  fatal.  Poe,  however,  was  so  vigilant  and  active  that  he 
averted  the  tomahawk  from  his  head,  and  received  it  upon  his  wrist,  with  a  con- 
siderable wound,  deep  enough  to  cripple,  but  not  entirely  to  destroy  the  use  of 
his  hand.  In  this  crisis  of  peril,  he  made  a  violent  effort,  and  broke  loose  from 
the  large  Indian.  He  snatched  a  rifle  and  shot  the  small  one  through  the  breast 
as  he  ran  up  a  third  time  with  his  lifted  tomahawk.  The  large  Indian  was  now 
on  his  feet,  and,  grasping  Poe  by  the  shoulder  and  the  leg,  hurled  him  in  the  air 
heels  over  head  upon  the  shore.  Poe  instantly  rose,  and  a  new  and  more  despe- 
rate struggle  ensued.  The  bank  was  slippery,  and  they  fell  into  the  water,  where 
each  strove  to  drown  the  other.  Their  efforts  were  long  and  doubtful,  each  al- 
ternately under  and  half  strangled,  till  Poe  fortunately  grasped,  with  his  un- 
\vounded  hand,  the  tuft  of  hair  upon  the  scalp  of  the  Indian,  and  forced  his  head 
into  the  water  ;  this  appeared  to  be  decisive  of  his  fate,  for  soon  he  manifested  all 
the  symptoms  of  a  drowning  man  bewildered  in  the  moment  of  death.  Poe  re- 
laxed his  hold,  and  discovered  too  late  the  stratagem.  The  Indian  was  instantly 
upon  his  feet  again,  and  engaged  anew  in  the  fierce  contest  for  life  and  victory. 
They  were  naturally  carried  further  into  the  stream,  and  the  current,  becoming 
stronger,  bore  them  beyond  their  depth.  They  w«re  now  compelled  to  loosen 
their  hold  upon  each  other,  and  to  swim  for  mutual  safety.  Both  sought  the 
shore  to  seize  a  gun,  but  the  Indian  was  the  best  swimmer,  and  gained  it  first. 


490  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Poe  then  turned  immediately  back  into  the  water  to  avoid  a  greater  danger, 
meaning  to  dive,  if  possible,  to  escape  the  fire.  Fortunately  for  him,  the  Indian 
caught  up  the  rifle  which  had  been  discharged  into  the  breast  of  his  smaller  com- 
panion. At  this  critical  juncture,  Andrew,  his  brother,  returned  in  haste,  having 
left  the  party  who  had  been  in  pursuit  of  the  other  Indians,  and  who  had  killed 
all  but  one  of  them,  at  the  expense  of  three  of  their  own  lives.  lie  heard  that 
Adam  was  in  great  peril,  and  alone  in  the  fight  with  two  against  him.  One  of 
our  people,  following  not  far  in  the  rear  of  Andrew,  mistook  Adam  in  the  water 
with  his  bloody  hand  for  a  wounded  Indian,  and  fired  a  bullet  into  his  shoulder. 
Adam  cried  out  to  his  brother  to  kill  the  big  Indian, on  the  shore,  but  Andrew's 
gun  had  been  discharged  and  was  not  again  loaded.  The  contest  was  now  be- 
tween the  savage  and  Andrew.  Each  labored  to  load  his  rifle  first.  The  Indian, 
after  putting  in  his  powder,  and  hurrying  his  motions  to  force  down  the  ball, 
drew  out  his  ramrod  with  such  violence  as  to  throw  it  some  yards  into  the  water. 
While  he  ran  to  pick  it  up,  Andrew  gained  an  advantage,  and  shot  the  Indian 
just  as  he  was  raising  his  gun  to  his  eye  for  a  deadly  aim.  Andrew  then  jumped 
into  the  river  to  assist  his  wounded  brother  to  the  shore ;  but  Adam,  thinking 
more  of  carrying  the  big  Indian  home  as  a  trophy  than  of  his  own  wounds,  urged 
Andrew  to  go  back  and  prevent  the  struggling  savage  from  rolling  himself  into 
the  current  and  escaping.  Andrew,  however,  was  too  solicitous  for  the  fate  of 
Adam  to  allow  him  to  obey,  and  the  Indian,  jealous  of  his  honor  as  a  warrior 
even  in  death,  and  knowing  well  the  intention  of  his  white  conquerors,  succeeded 
in  retaining  life  and  action  long  enough  to  reach  the  current,  by  which  his  dead 
body  was  carried  down  beyond  the  chance  of  pursuit. 

This  native  was  the  most  distinguished  among  five  celebrated  brothers  belong- 
ing to  the  royal  family  of  the  tribe  of  Wyandottes.  Notwithstanding  he  was  en- 
gaged in  this  predatory  expedition,  he  was  acknowledged  by  all  to  be  peculiarly 
magnanimous  for  an  Indian,  and  had  contributed,  more  than  any  other  individual, 
to  preserve  and  extend  the  practice  which  was  known  to  prevail  in  his  tribe,  that 
of  not  taking  the  lives  of  prisoners,  and  of  not  suffering  them  to  be  treated  ill. 
This  practice  was  an  honorable  distinction  for  the  Wyandottes,  as  was  well  un- 
derstood by  the  white  people  who  were  traders  with  the  Indians,  and  by  those 
of  our  early  settlers  and  brethren  who  had  been  made  prisoners  in  war.  It  was 
a  common  remark  among  them,  u  If  we  become  the  prisoners  of  the  Wyandottes, 
we  shall  be  fortunate.1'  The  death  of  this  large  Indian  and  of  his  four  brothers, 
who  were  all  in  the  party,  was  more  deeply  lamented  by  the  tribe,  as  was  after- 
ward learned,  than  all  the  other  losses  sustained  during  the  hostilities  carried  on 
between  them  and  us.  There  was  a  universal,  solemn,  and  distressing  mourning. 

Adam  Poe  recovered  from  his  wounds,  and  gave  this  account  in  person  to 
James  Morrison,  Esq.,  from  whom  we  have  received  it,  and  by  whom  we  are 
assured  that  it  is  correct.  The  courage  and  enterprise,  the  suffering  and  forti- 
tude, the  decision  and  perseverance  of  the  early  settlers  of  this  western  country, 
by  whose  labors  we  are  now  so  peaceful  and  happy,  ought  not  to  be  forgotten, 
but  may  well  be  related  from  time  to  time  to  excite  in  us  the  spirit  of  similar 
virtues,  and  to  teach  us  how  to  consider  the  slight  privations  which  we  are,  or 
may  be,  called  to  meet.  Gratitude  is  more  appropriate  to  our  condition  than 
discontent. 


DELAWARE. 

Area, 2,120  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 112,216 

Population  in  1870, 125,015 

THE  State  of  Delaware,  one  of  the  original  members  of  the  Union, 
is  situated  between  38°  28'  and  39°  50'  N.  latitude,  and  75°  and 
75°  45'  "W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Pennsylvania, 
on  the  east  by  Delaware  River  and  Bay  (by  which  it  is  separated  from 
New  Jersey)  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the  south  and  west  by 
Maryland.  It  is  about  96  miles  long,  from  north  to  south,  and  37 
miles  wide,  from  east  to  west. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  northern  part  of  the  State  is  a  fine  rolling  country,  healthy  and 
beautiful ;  but  the  southern  and  central  counties  are  low  and  generally 
sandy.  The  lower  part  of  the  State  is  occupied  by  a  large  cypress 
swamp.  Just  north  of  this  swamp,  is  a  slight  elevation  running  north 
and  south.  It  is  occupied  with  swamps,  in  which  rise  the  waters 
flowing  into  the  Delaware  Bay.  This  State  and  the  eastern  shore  of 
Maryland,  lying  between  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  bays,  form 
a  low  peninsula,  over  which  the  salt  air  sweeps  with  but  little  to 
interrupt  it. 

The  Delaware  River,  which  washes  the  eastern  shore  of  the  State, 
has  been  described.  .  It  is  the  principal  stream.  The  Brandywine, 
which  enters  the  State  from  Pennsylvania,  on  the  north,  and  flows 
into  the  Delaware  at  Wilmington,  is  a  fine  mill  stream.  Indian  River, 
which  flows  into  the  Atlantic  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  is  the 
largest  stream  lying  wholly  within  the  limits  of  Delaware.  A  num- 

491 


492  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ber  of  creeks  flow  into  Delaware  Bay  and  the  Atlantic,  and  the  Nanti- 
coke  and  Choptank  rivers  of  Maryland  rise  in  the  southwestern  part 
of  the  State. 

Delaware  Bay  is  a  large  arm  of  the  sea,  separating  the  States  of 
Delaware  and  New  Jersey.  It  is  13  miles  wide  at  its  mouth.  Cape 
Henlopen,  on  the  southwestern  side,  is  in  Delaware ;  and  Cape  May, 
on  the  northeast  side,  in  New  Jersey,  The  bay  is  60  miles  long, 
from  the  capes  to  the  mouth  of  the  Delaware  River,  and  is  25  miles 
wide  at  its  broadest  part.  It  is  considerably  obstructed  with  shoals, 
which  make  its  navigation  difficult  in  many  places.  It  offers  the  only 
harbor  between  New  York  and  the  Chesapeake ;  and  for  the  purpose  of 
protecting  it,  the  Government  has  erected,  at  a  cost  of  over  $2,000,000, 
a  magnificent  breakwater  consisting  of  two  sides,  extending  out  from 
the  Delaware  shore  at  Cape  Henlopen.  The  upper  side  protects  the 
harbor  thus  formed  from  floating  ice,  and  the  lower  side  guards  it 
from  the  violence  of  the  waves  of  the  sea.  The  breakwater  is  built 
of  massive  stone,  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world. 

MINERALS. 

Delaware  is  almost  without  mineral  resources.  Bog  iron  ore  exists 
in  the  southern  swamps;  and  a  fine  white  sand,  used  in  making  glass, 
is  found  near-  the  head  of  Delaware  Bay.  Large  quantities  of  it  are 
shipped  to  New  England. 

CLIMATE. 

The  sea  breeze,  which  sweeps  over  the  entire  State,  renders  the 
climate  mild  and  pleasant,  as  a  general  rule ;  but  the  winters  are 
sometimes  severe  and  trying.  The  southern  and  central  portions  are 
afflicted  with  ague  and  fever,  and  are  consequently  unhealthy. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  in  the  southern  portion  of  the  State  is  sandy ;  in  the  centre 
it  consists  of  a  mixture  of  clay  and  sand ;  and  in  the  northern  part 
it  is  a  fine,  fertile  loam.  Since  the  census  of  1860,  the  State  has 
made  great  progress  in  agriculture,  and  the  cultivation  of  fruit  has 
increased  beyond  the  most  sanguine  expectations.  The  abolition  of 
slavery  has  drawn  into  the  State  a  considerable  emigration  of  small 
farmers  from  New  England,  and  it  is  becoming  one  of  the  most  pro- 
ductive sections  of  the  Union.  The  peach  crop  is  rarely  a  failure  in 


DELAWARE.  493 

* 

this  State,  and  its  small  fruits,  melons,  and  sweet  potatoes  have  made 
it  famous  throughout  the  country. 

In  1869,  there  were  637,065  acres  of  improved,  and  367,230  acres 
of  unimproved  land  in  Delaware.  The  other  products  for  the  same 
year  were  as  follows : 

Cash  value  of  farms  (estimated), $31,426,357 

Value  of  farming  implements  and  machinery 

(estimated), $820,000 

Number  of  horses, 25,160 

asses  and  mules, 4,112 

milch  cows, 24,198 

young  cattle, 35,340 

sheep, 19,540 

swine, 51,360 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $5,144,706 

Bushels  of  wheat, 830,000 

rye, 35,000 

"           Indian  corn, 3,200,000 

oats, 1,723,000 

14           peas  and  beans, 8,438 

"           potatoes, 200,000 

barley, 6,000 

"          buckwheat, 12,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 1,430,502 

"           cheese, ,    .    .    .  6,579 

"           beeswax  and  honey, 68,130 

Tons  of  hay, 30,000 

COMMERCE. 

Delaware  has  but  little  direct  foreign  trade,  almost  the  entire  busi- 
ness of  the  State  passing  through  the  ports  of  Philadelphia  and  Balti- 
more. In  1863,  the  tonnage  owned  in  the  State  amounted  to  25,963. 
Delaware  exports  large  quantities  of  fruit  to  the  northern  States, 
together  with  a  considerable  quantity  of  lumber  from  her  swamps. 

MANUFACTURES. 

The  only  manufacturing  town  in  Delaware,  is  Wilmington ;  but 
manufacturing  establishments  are  located  in  various  parts  of  the  State. 
In  1860,  the  State  contained  564  establishments  devoted  to  manufac- 
tures. They  employed  6192  hands  and  a  capital  of  $5,360,000,  con- 
sumed raw  material  worth  $5,375,000,  and  yielded  an  annual  pro- 
duct of  $9,920,000.  The  following  is  a  detailed  statement  of  the 
value  of  the  principal  manufactures  in  1860  : 


4 

494  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Cotton  goods, $919,103 

Woollen  goods, 156,635 

Leather, 37,240 

Steam  engines  and  machinery, 550,500 

Agricultural  implements, 90,581 

Sawed  and  planed  lumber, 260,000 

Flour, 1,840,000 

Boots  and  shoes, 226,470 

Carriages,       608,580 

The  railroad  cars  and  gunpowder  of  Wilmington  rank  high 
amongst  the  products  of  the  State,  but  no  estimates  of  them  are 
at  hand. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  principal  public  work  in  the  State  is  the  Canal,  extending  en- 
tirely across  the  State  and  connecting  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  bays. 
It  is  16  miles  long,  66  feet  wide  at  the  surface,  10  feet  deep,  and  is  pro- 
vided with  two  lift  and  two  tide  locks,  100  feet  long  by  22  feet  wide. 
It  was  completed  in  1829,  cost  $2,750,000,  and  affords  /nland  steam 
communication  between  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  and  New  York. 
Near  the  eastern  end  of  the  canal,  is  the  famous  "  deep  cut,"  an  ex- 
cavation 90  feet  deep,  .and  6  miles  long,  through  which  the  canal 
passes. 

A  railroad  from  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore,  the  main  line  of  the 
through  travel  between  the  North  and  the  South,  extends  across  the 
northern  part  of  the  State.  The  Delaware  Railroad  extends  from 
Wilmington  through  the  centre  of  the  State  to  the  lower  part  of  the 
eastern  shore  of  Maryland.  A  branch  road  leads  off  from  the  main 
stem  to  Easton,  Md.,  and  another  into  the  eastern  part  of  Sussex 
county.  Owing  to  the  extreme  narrowness  of  the  State,  the  Delaware 
road  brings  every  part  of  it  below  Wilmington  within  direct  rail- 
road communication  with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  In  1872,  the  State 
contained  227  miles  of  completed  railroads,  constructed  at  a  cost  of 
about  $7,000,000.  The  Delaware  road,  it  should  be  added,  connects 
with  steamers  for  Norfolk  at  Crisfield,  Md.,  and  thus  forms  the  most 
direct  route  from  Norfolk  to  Philadelphia  and  New  York. 

EDUCATION. 

There  is  no  regular  public  school  system  in  Delaware,  as  in  the 
other  Middle  States.  The  counties  and  towns  are  left  to  themselves 
in  their  efforts  to  provide  public  instruction.  The  State  makes  an 


DELAWARE.  495 

annual  appropriation  for  this  purpose,  of  50  cents  for  each  pupil  in 
Sussex  and  Kent  counties,  and  20  cents  for  each  pupil  in  Newcastle 
county.  In  1870,  there  were  326  public  schools  in  the  State,  with 
17,835  pupils.  The  number  is  about  the  same  at  present. 

A  State  Normal  School  was  established  in  1866.  Besides  this, 
there  are  two  colleges  in  the  State  with  about  90  students.  Delaware 
College  is  located  at  Newark,  and  St.  Mary's  College  at  Wilmington. 
The  schools  being  closed  to  colored  children,  about  24  colored  schools 
have  been  opened  in  various  parts  of  the  State. 

In  1870,  the  State  contained  473  libraries,  of  which  over  200  were 
public.  There  were  14  political  papers — 1  daily,  10  weekly,  and  3 
semi-weekly — and  1  literary  paper  (a  weekly)  published  in  Delaware. 
They  had  a  total  annual  circulation  of  1,607,840  copies. 

PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS. 

Delaware  maintains  its  insane,  deaf,  dumb,  and  blind,  in  the  insti- 
tutions of  other  States,  and  has  no  such  establishments  of  its  own. 
The  State  is  also  without  a  penitentiary.  Criminals  are  confined  in 
the  county  jails.  Until  within  a  year  or  two,  many  offences  were 
punished  by  whipping  at  the  public  whipping-post,  and  standing  in 
the  pillory.  As  late  as  the  5th  of  December,  1868,  a  scene  of  this 
kind  occurred  at  Newcastle. 

KELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  Delaware  was  $1,823,950. 
The  number  of  churches  was  252. 

FINANCES. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  year  1871,  the  aggregate  indebtedness  of 
the  State  of  Delaware  amounted  to  $1,632,000,  an  increase  of  $1 76,000 
in  two  years.  The  State  has  investments  amounting  to  $1,074,150, 
which  is  $224,000  more  than  it  held  at  the  beginning  of  1869.  The 
receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  year  1870  were  $120,577. 

In  1868,  there  were  11  National  Banks  in  Delaware,  with  an  aggre- 
gate capital  of  $1,428,185. 

GOVERNMENT. 

In  this  State  every  free  male  citizen,  22  years  of  age,  who  has  re- 
sided one  year  in  the  State,  and  for  the  last  month  of  this  year  in  the 


496  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

county,  and  who  has  paid  a  county  tax  assessed  at  least  6  months  be- 
fore the  election,  is  entitled  to  vote;  but  free  male  citizens  between 
21  and  22  years  of  age  may  vote  without  paying  taxes,  provided  they 
have  complied  with  the  other  conditions. 

The  Government  is  conducted  by  a  Governor,  and  Legislature  con- 
sisting of  a  Senate  (of  9  members)  and  a  House  of  Representatives 
(of  21  members),  all  elected  by  the  people.  The  Secretary  of  State  is 
appointed  by  the  Governor,  and  serves  for  4  years.  The  Attorney- 
General  is  appointed  in  the  same  way,  and  holds  office  5  years.  The 
State  Treasurer  and  Auditor  are  elected  by  the  Legislature  for  2  years. 
The  Governor  serves  for  4  years,  and  the  members  of  the  Legislature 
for  2  years.  The  Legislature  meets  once  in  two  years. 

The  Judiciary  consists  of  a  Court  of  Errors  and  Appeals,  Superior 
Court,  Court  of  Chancery,  Orphans'  Court,  Court  of  Oyer  and  Ter- 
miner,  Court  of  General  Sessions  of  the  Peace  and  Jail  Delivery, 
Register's  Court,  and  Justices  of  the  Peace.  The  Chancellor  is  the 
principal  Judge  of  the  State. 

Dover,  in  Kent  county,  is  the  capital. 

For  purposes  of  government,  Delaware  is  divided  into  three  coun- 
ties, viz :  Newcastle,  Kent,  and  Sussex. 

HISTORY. 

The  first  settlements  in  this  State  were  made  by  the  Swedes  and 
Finns,  in  1627.  As  we  have  shown  in  the  sketch  of  Pennsylvania, 
they  were  conquered  by  the  Dutch,  in  1655,  and  turned  over  to  the 
English  when  New  York  passed  into  their  hands,  in  1664.  Dela- 
ware formed  a,  part  of  the  territory  granted  to  William  Penn,  in  1682  ; 
and  from  that  time  until  the  Revolution,  continued  to  form  a  part  of 
Pennsylvania.  It  was  allowed  a  separate  Assembly  about  the  year 
1701,  but  remained  subject  to  the  authority  of  the  Governor  of  Penn- 
sylvania until  1776,  when  it  was  granted  an  independent  existence. 
It  adopted  a  State  Constitution,  on  the  20th  of  September,  1776,  and 
was  received  into  the  Union  of  the  States.  The  province  bore  its  full 
share  of  the  burdens  of  the  wars  with  France;  and  in  the  Revolution, 
the  Delaware  regiment  was  known  as  one  of  the  most  efficient  in  the 
army.  On  the  7th  of  December,  1787,  the  State  ratified  the  Consti- 
tution of  the  United  States;  and  in  1792,  a  new  State  Constitution 
was  adopted. 

In  1865,  slavery  was  abolished  in  the  State  by  the  ratification  of  an 


DELAWARE.  49T 

amendment  to  the  Federal  Constitution.  The  number  of  slaves  was 
1798  in  1860,  but  had  been  considerably  reduced  by  1865. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Wilmington  is  the  largest  town  in  the  State.  The  other  places  of 
importance  are,  Smyrna,  Dover,  Newcastle,  Delaware  City,  Seaford, 
and  Lewes. 

DOVER, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Kent  county,  on  Jones7  Creek,  5 
miles  above  the  Delaware  River.  It  is  50  miles  south  from  Wilmington, 
and  114  northeast  from  Washington  City.  The  town  is  prettily  situated 
on  high  ground,  and  is  built  mostly  of  brick.  The  streets  are  wide 
and  cross  each  other  at  right-angles,  arid  are  prettily  shaded  with  trees. 
The  town  contains  a  fine  State  House,  and  the  buildings  devoted  to 
the  public  offices,  all  of  which  face  an  open  and  tastefully  ornamented 
square.  The  railway  from  Wilmington  to  Crisfield,  Md.,  passes 
through  Dover,  which  is  thus  brought  in  communication  with  all 
parts  of  the  State.  There  are  several  flourishing  schools  in  Dover, 
4  churches,  and  1  newspaper  office.  Many  of  the  residences  are 
handsome  and  attractive.  In  1870,  the  population  was  1913. 

WILMINGTON, 

The  largest  and  most  important  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  New- 
castle county,  on  Christiana  Creek,  just  above  its  junction  with  the 
Brandywine,  and  within  2  miles  of  the  Delaware  River.  It  is  28 
miles  southwest  of  Philadelphia,  and  108  miles  northeast  of  Washing- 
ton City.  It  is  built  on  the  southern  slope  of  a  hill,  the  summit  of 
which  is  110  feet  above  tide-water.  The  upper  portions  of  the  city 
command  excellent  views  of  the  Delaware  River  and  the  surrounding 
country.  The  general  plan  of  Wilmington  is  regular,  with  wide, 
straight  streets  intersecting  each  other  at  right-angles.  The  buildings 
are  principally  of  brick,  and  give  to  the  city  a  substantial  air,  which 
is  being  greatly  improved  of  late  by  the  frequent  introduction  of  stone 
in  the  more  modern  edifices.  The  principal  business  thoroughfare  is 
Market  street,  about  a  mile  in  length.  It  extends  from  the  Chris- 
tiana to  the  Brandywine,  intersects  the  other  streets  at  right-angles, 
and  crosses  each  of  the  creeks  named  by  a  handsome  "  *;dge.  Street 
railways  connect  the  principal  points  of  the  city. 
32 


498 


THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


PEACH  FARM. 


The  Public  Buildings  are  the  Town,  Hall,  the  Custom  House,  a  fine 
granite  structure,  and  the  Institute.  The  Roman  Catholic  College,  about 
10  public  schools,  and  7  or  8  private  schools  constitute  the  educa- 
tional establishments.  The  Institute  contains  a  spacious  hall,  a  scien- 
tific lecture-room,  and  a  library  of  over  8000  volumes.  The  city  also 
contains  a  large  hospital,  an  alms-house,  and  about  30  churches;  is 
supplied  with  pure  water  from  the  Brandy  wine,  and  is  lighted  with 
gas.  It  has  a  well  organized  police  force,  and  a  steam  fire  department. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  Five  newspapers  are  pub- 
lished here. 

Wilmington  is  accessible  to  steamers  and  ships,  and  is  connected 
with  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  by  railway.  It  is  also  the  northern 
terminus  of  the  Delaware  Railway.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable 
trade,  and  is  also  largely  engaged  in  manufactures.  The  principal  of 
these  are  iron  steamboats,  railway  cars,  steam  engines,  railroad  wheels, 
locomotive  and  car  springs,  mill  machinery,  other  iron  goods,  powder, 
carriages,  flour,  leather,  shoes,  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  and  agricul- 
tural implements.  The  famous  powder  works  of  the  Duponts  are 


DELAWARE.  499 

situated  about  2  miles  from  the  city.  In  1870,  the  population  of  the 
city  was  30,841. 

Wilmington  occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Christiana  and  the  village 
built  back  of  it,  which  the  Dutch  called  Christianham.  After  the 
surrender  of  the  Dutch  possessions  on  the  Delaware,  it  was  called 
Altona.  The  town  was  first  laid  out  in  1732,  by  Thomas  Willing, 
and  was  called  Willing  Town,  which  name  was  afterwards  changed  to 
Wilmington.  In  1777,  it  was  occupied  by  the  British.  In  1809,  it 
was  chartered  as  the  "Borough  of  Wilmington ;"  and  in  1832,  it  was 
incorporated  as  a  city. 

The  other  towns  of  the  State  stand  as  follows,  in  respect  to  popula- 
tion: Smyrna,  2110  inhabitants;  Newcastle,  1916;  Delaware  City, 
1059 ;  Seaford,  1308 ;  Lewes,  1090. 


PART    IV. 
THE  SOUTHEKN  STATES. 


MARYLAND. 

Area, ,    .     .    .      9,356  Square  Miles.* 

Population  in  1860, 687,049 

Population  in  1870, 780,894 

THE  State  of  Maryland,  one  of  the  original  members  of  the  Union, 
is  situated  between  38°  and  39°  44'  N.  latitude,  and  75°  10'  and  79° 
20'  W.  longitude.  It  is  190  miles  long  from  east  to  west  in  the  ex- 
treme northern  part,  and  120  miles  wide  from  north  to  south  in  the 
extreme  eastern  part.  Its  width,  however,  varies  greatly  in  different 
localities.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Pennsylvania,  on  the  east 
by  Delaware,  on  the  south  by  Virginia  and  West  Virginia,  and  on 
the  west  by  West  Virginia.  It  is  separated  from  the  two  Virginias 
on  the  south  by  the  Potomac  River.  The  District  of  Columbia,  the 
seat  of  the  Federal  Government,  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  in 
the  southwestern  part  of  the  State,  and  originally  formed  a  part  of 
the  State  of  Maryland. 

TOPOGRAPHY, 

The  Chesapeake  Bay  divides  the  State  into  two  unequal  portions, 
called  the  Eastern  and  Western  Shore.  The  Western  Shore  is  about 
twice  the  size  of  the  Eastern,  and  comprises  the  more  important  part 
of  the  State.  The  Eastern  Shore  is  mostly  level,  or  at  the  best 
slightly  rolling.  The  surface  of  the  Western  Shore  rises  as  it  recedes 
from  the  bay,  and  west  of  Baltimore  is  rugged  and  mountainous.  The 
Alleghany  Mountains  cross  the  State  in  the  western  part,  and  are 
known  as  the  Southeast  Mountain,  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  Catoctiiij 
Blue  Ridge,  Kittatinny,  Rugged  Mountain,  and  Will's  Mountain. 

*  This  estimate  is  exclusive  of  the  area  occupied  by  the  Bay.  Including 
the  Chesapeake,  the  area  of  the  State  is  about  11,124  square  miles. 

503 


504  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  State  is  not  over  6  or  7  miles  wide  in  the  greater  part  of  this  re- 
gion, but  it  is  rich  in  magnificent  scenery. 

The  Chesapeake  Bay  lies  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  and  di- 
vides it,  as  we  have  stated,  into  two  unequal  'portions.  Tt  receives 
the  waters  of  the  Susquehanna  at  its  head,  the  Elk,  Chester, 
Sassafras,  Choptank,  and  Nanticoke  rivers  from  the  Eastern 
Shore,  and  the  Patapsco,  Patuxent,  and  Potomac  from  the  Western. 
The  bay  is  about  200  miles  long,  and  for  120  miles  lies  entirely  in 
Maryland.  The  lower  part,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Potomac,  lies  in 
Virginia.  Its  northern  point  is  called  Cape  Charles,  and  its  southern 
Cape  Henry.  The  width  between  these  capes  is  12  miles.  Above 
this  the  bay  varies  in  width  from  10  to  40  miles.  Its  shores  are 
thickly  studded  with  inlets,  many  of  which  are  fine  harbors.  It  is 
navigable  for  the  largest  ships  nearly  to  its  head,  and  for  steamers 
into  the  Susquehanna.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sheets  of  water 
in  the  world.  After  passing  the  southern  boundary  of  Maryland,  it 
receives  the  waters,  of  the  Rappahannock,  York,  and  James  rivers, 
of  Virginia,  on  its  western  side.  It  connects  Alexandria,  Norfolk, 
and  {Richmond}  in  Virginia,  Washington  City,  in  the  District  of 
Columbia,  and  Baltimore,  in  Maryland,  with  the  sea.  An  immense 
trade  is  carried  on  over  its  waters. 

The  Chesapeake  is  famous  for  the  abundance  and  variety  of  the 
game  which  it  furnishes.  Its  oysters  are  world-renowned,  and  seem 
inexhaustible.  The  bay  and  inlets  abound  in  a  variety  of  the  finest 
fish  and  terrapin,  and  other  salt-water  delicacies  are  found  all  along 
its  shores.  These  waters  supply  the  principal  markets  of  the  Eastern 
States  with  such  delicacies.  "  There  is,"  says  Dr.  Lewis,  in  the 
"American  Sportsman,"  "no  place  in  our  wide  extent  of  country  where 
wild  fowl  shooting  is  followed  with  so  much  ardor  as  on  the  Chesa- 
peake Bay  and  its  tributaries,  not  only  by  those  who  make  a  comfort- 
able living  from  the  business,  but  also  by  gentlemen  who  resort  to 
these  waters  from  all  parts  of  the  adjoining  States  to  participate  in 
the  enjoyments  of  this  far-famed  ducking  ground.  All  species  of 
wild  fowl  come  here  in  numbers  beyond  credence,  and  it  is  really  ne- 
cessary for  a  stranger  to  visit  the  region  if  he  wishes  to  form  a  just 
idea  of  the  wonderful  multitudes  and  numberless  varieties  of  ducks 
that  darken  these  waters,  and  hover  in  interminable  flocks  over  these 
famed  feeding  grounds.  It  is  not,  however,  the  variety  or  extraor- 
dinary numbers  of  ducks  on  the  Chesapeake  that  particularly  attract 
the  steps  of  so  many  shooters  to  these  parts,  as  there  are  other  rivers 


MARYLAND. 


505 


OYSTER   FISHING. 

and  streams  equally  accessible  where  wild  fowl  also  abound.  But  the 
great  magnet  that  makes  these  shores  the  centre  of  attraction,  is  the 
presence  of  the  far-famed  Canvass- Back,  that  here  alone  acquires  its 
peculiar  delicacy  of  flavor,  while  feeding  upon  the  shores  and  flats  of 
these  waters/' 

"The  canvass-baeks,"  says  Dr.  Sharpless,  of  Philadelphia,  in  a 
paper  contributed  to  "Audubon's  Birds  of  America,"  "  pass  up  and 
down  the  bay,  from  river  to  river,  in  their  morning  and  evening 
flights,  giving,  at  certain  localities,  great  opportunities  for  destruction. 
They  pursue,  even  in  their  short  passages,  very  much  the  order  of 
their  migratory  movements,  flying  in  a  line  of  baseless  triangle:  and 
when  the  wind  blows  on  the  points  which  mav  lie  in  their  course,  the 
sportsman  has  great  chance  of  success.  These  points  or  courses  of 
the  ducks  are  materially  affected  by  the  winds ;  for  they  avoid,  if  pos- 
gible,  an  approach  to  the  shore ;  but  when  a  strong  breeze  sets  them 
on  to  these  projections  of  the  land,  they  are  compelled  to  pass  within 
shot,  and  often  over  the  land  itself.  In  the  Susquehanna  and  Elk 
rivers  there  are  few  of  these  points  for  shooting,  and  there  success 


506  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

depends  on  approaching  them  while  on  their  feeding  grounds.  After 
leaving  the  eastern  point  at  the  mouth  of  the  Susquehaima  and  Tur- 
key Point,  the  western  side  of  the  Elk  River,  which  are  both  mode- 
rately good  for  flying  shooting,  the  first  place  of  much  celebrity  is 
the  Narrows,  between  Spesutic  Island  and  the  western  shore.  These 
Narrows  are  about  3  miles  in  length,  and  from  300  to  500  yards  in 
breadth.  By  the  middle  of  November,  the  canvass-backs,  in  particu- 
lar, begin  to  feed  in  this  passage,  and  the  entrance  and  outlet,  as  well 
as  many  intermediate  spots,  become  very  successful  stations.  A  few 
miles  down  the  western  shore  is  Taylor's  Island,  which  is  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Rumney  and  Abbey  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Bush 
River,  which  are  both  celebrated  for  ducks,  as  well  as  for  swans  and 
geese.  These  are  the  most  northerly  points  where  large  fowl  are  met 
with,  and  projecting  out  between  deep  coves,  where  immense  numbers 
of  these  birds  feed,  they  possess  great  advantages.  The  south  point 
of  Bush  River,  Legoe's  Point,  and  Robbins'  and  Pickett's  points, 
near  Gunpowder  River,  are  famous  localities.  Immediately  at  the 
mouth  of  this  river  is  situated  Carroll's  Island,  which  has  long  been 
known  as  a  great  shooting  ground.  Maxwell's  Point,  as  well  as  some 
others  up  other  rivers,  and  even  further  down  the  bay,  are  good 
places,  but  less  celebrated  than  those  mentioned.  Most  of  these  places 
are  let  out  as  shooting  grounds  for  companies  and  individuals,  and 
are  esteemed  so  valuable  that  intruders  are  severely  treated."  Nor- 
folk, Virginia,  on  the  Elizabeth  River,  at  the  lower  extremity  of  the 
bay,  is  the  depot  for  the  receipt  and  sale  of  the  game  taken  in  the 
Chesapeake,  and  there  the  best  purchases  can  be  made.  The  sport, 
as  all  who  have  joined  in  it  full  well  know,  is  not  without  its  diffi- 
culties and  its  dangers.  Says  the  learned  doctor  from  whom  we  have 
already  quoted  :  "  Notwithstanding  the  apparent  facilities  that  are  of- 
fered of  success,  the  amusement  of  duck-shooting  is  probably  one  of 
the  most  exposing  to  cold  and  wet ;  and  those  who  undertake  its  en- 
joyment without  a  courage  '  screwed  to  the  sticking-point,'  will  soon 
discover  that  '  to  one  good  a  thousand  ills  oppose.'  It  is,  indeed,  no 
parlor  sport;  for,  after  creeping  through  mud  and  mire,  often  for 
hundreds  of  yards,  to  be  at  last  disappointed,  and  stand  exposed  on 
points  to  the 'pelting  rain  or  more  than  freezing  cold,' for  hours, 
without  even  the  promise  of  a  shot — would  try  the  patience  of  even 
Franklin's  '  glorious  nibbler.'  It  is,  however,  replete  with  excite- 
ment and  charm.  To  one  who  can  enter  on  the  pleasure  with  a  sys- 
tem formed  for  polar  cold,  and  a  spirit  to  endure  the  weary  toil  of 


MARYLAND.  507 

inany  a  stormy  day,  it  will  yield  a  harvest  of  health  and  delight  that 
the  roamer  of  the  woods  can  rarely  enjoy." 

The  rivers  of  the  State  are  little  more  than  arms  of  the  bay. 

The  Patapsco  River  rises  in  Carroll  county,  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  State.  It  flows  southward  as  far  as  the  line  of  Baltimore  and 
Anne  Arundel  counties,  where  it  turns  to  the  east,  forming  the  boun- 
dary between  those  counties,  and  emptying  into  the  Chesapeake,  14 
miles  east  of  Baltimore  City.  It  is  about  80  miles  long.  Until  it 
reaches  the  border  of  Anne  Arundel  county,  it  flows  through  a  hilly 
country,  and,  being  broken  by  numerous  falls,  forms  a  fine  mill 
stream.  It  flows  into  the  bay  through  a  wide  estuary  about  14  miles 
long,  and  3  miles  wide,  which  is  navigable  to  Baltimore  for  the 
largest  ships.  The  Patuxent  River  rises  about  18  miles  southeast  of 
Frederick  City,  and  flowing  south-southeast  between  the  counties  of 
Montgomery,  Prince  George's,  Charles,  and  St.  Mary's,  on  the  right, 
and  Howard,  Anne  Arundel,  and  Calvert,  on  the  left,  empties  into 
Chesapeake  Bay,  through  a  broad  estuary,  3  or  4  miles  wide.  The 
river  is  90  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for  about  48  or  50  miles  from 
its  mouth.  It  flows  through  a  fine  agricultural  region.  The  Chop- 
tank  River  rises  in  Kent  county,  Delaware,  and  flows  into  the  Chesa- 
peake Bay,  between  Dorchester  and  Talbot  counties,  on  the  Eastern 
Shore  of  Maryland.  About  20  miles  from  its  mouth,  it  spreads  out 
into  a  broad  estuary,  3  or  4  miles  wide,  which  affords  some  of  the 
finest  water  scenery  in  America.  It  is  about  100  miles  long,  is  navi- 
gable for  steamers  for  about  40  miles,  for  sloops  for  10  or  15  miles 
higher,  and  lies  for  the  greater  part  in  Maryland.  The  other  rivers 
are  the  Elk,  Sassafras,  Chester,  Pocomoke,  and  Nanticoke.  These, 
with  the  bay  itself,  cut  up  the  Eastern  Shore  into  so  many  inlets  that 
vessels  can  lie  alongside  the  shores  of  the  majority  of  the  farms  in  that 
part  of  the  State  and  receive  the  crops  on  board. 

Kent  Island,  in  Chesapeake  Bay,  opposite  Annapolis,  forms  a  part 
of  Queen  Anne's  county,  and  is  famous  as  having  been  the  site  of  the 
first  English  settlement  in  the  State. 

MINERALS. 

Coal  and  iron  are  found  in  large  quantities  in  the  western  part  of 
the  State,  and  of  the  very  best  qualities.  Copper  is  found  in  Frederick 
and  Carroll  counties,  where  important  mines  are  located.  Cobalt  is 
found  along  the  Patapsco,  and  traces  of  nickel  have  been  discovered 


508  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

in  some  of  the  copper  mines.  Lignites  occur  in  quantities  in  Anne 
Arundel  county,  mixed  with  amber  and  iron  pyrites.  Alum,  porce*- 
Iain-clay,  lime,  chrome,  manganese,  magnesia,  barytes,  marble,  marl, 
and  ochres  are  also  found,  and  gold  has  been  discovered. 

CLIMATE. 

Lying  between  the  Northern  and  Southern  States,  Maryland  does 
not  share  the  extremes  of  the  temperature  of  either  section,  but  pos- 
sesses a  climate  noted  for  its  evenness  and  mildness.  The  breezes  from 
the  bay  sweep  over  the  greater  part  of  the  State,  and  add  much  to 
this  effect.  The  country  along  the  bay  and  its  tributaries,  however, 
is  sickly,  being  afflicted  with  chills  and  fevers. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  of  the  eastern  shore  is  sandy  in  the  lower  part,  but  consists 
of  mixtures  of  clay  and  sand  above  the  Choptank  River.  The  lands 
of  Talbot  county  are  among  the  finest  in  the  State.  The  southern 
counties  of  the  western  shore  have  also  a  sandy  soil,  but  that  of  the 
other  counties  is  very  fertile.  That  of  Frederick  county  will  compare 
in  productiveness  with  any  in  the  Union.  The  agriculture  of  the 
State  is  backward.  Manures  have  been  but  little  used,  although  lime 
and  marl  exist  in  considerable  quantities  in  the  State.  A  change  for 
the  better  has  taken  place  of  late,  however.  The  abolition  of  slavery- 
has  opened  the  way  for  the  small  farmers  of  New  England  and  the 
Middle  States,  who  are  settling  in  the  State,  especially  upon  the  eastern 
shore,  in  great  numbers.  Great  attention  is  being  paid  to  the  growing 
of  fruits,  to  which  this  State  is  peculiarly  adapted.  Large  quantities 
of  peaches  and  small  fruits  are  annually  sent  to  northern  markets. 
Tobacco  also  forms  an  important  staple.  The  land  is  easily  brought 
to  a  high  state  of  fertility,  and  in  the  eastern  counties  the  winters  are 
short  and  mild.  Horses  in  the  sandy  counties  do  not  require  to  be 
shod,  and  many  of  the  farms  having  water  boundaries  need  little  or 
no  fencing. 

In  1869  there  were  about  3,002,269  acres  of  improved,  and 
1,833,306  acres  of  unimproved  land  in  the  State.  The  other  products 

for  the  same  year  may  be  stated  as  follows : 
- 

Number  of  horses, 99,112 

"  asses  and  mules, .    .    .    .    .    .    .  11,310 

"  milch  cows,     ...         ....  100,030 


MARYLAND.  509 

Number  of  young  cattle,  ........  170,110 

sheep, 160,211 

swine,     .    .     .     .    .     .     .     ...  398,120 

Value  of  domestic  animals,  . $15,667,853 

Bushels  of  wheat, 7,733,000 

rye, 182,000 

Indian  corn, 12,300,000 

oats, 7,100,000 

peas  and  beans, 39,407 

"          potatoes, 1,050,000 

"           barley, 24,000 

buckwheat, 150,000 

Hhds  of  tobacco 25,000 

Pounds  of  wool  (estimated), 500,000 

butter, 5,265,295 

cheese, 8,342 

Tons  of  hay, 191,000 

COMMERCE. 

Baltimore  is  the  chief  commercial  city  of  the  State,  and  is  actively 
engaged  in  an  important  trade  with  the  Southern  and  Western  States, 
and  with  Europe.  The  tonnage  owned,  in  the  State  in  1863  was 
288,860.  During  the  same  year  the  exports  of  the  State  amounted  to 
$12,089,072,  and  the  imports  to  $4,484,399.  The  coal  of  this  State 
is  coming  into  considerable  prominence  as  fuel  for  steamers,  and  an 
important  trade  is  carried  on  with  all  parts  of  the  world  in  canned 
fruits,  vegetables,  oysters,  etc.,  prepared  in  the  Bay  counties  and  in 
Baltimore. 

MANUFACTURES. 

Maryland  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures.  In  1860  there 
were  2980  establishments  in  the  State  devoted  to  manufactures,  min- 
ing, and  the  mechanic  arts.  They  employed  a  capital  of  $51,800,000, 
and  40,900  hands,  consumed  raw  material  worth  $21,900,000,  and 
returned  an  annual  product  of  $43,000,000.  The  value  of  the  prin- 
cipal manufactures  for  1860  was  as  follows : 

Cotton  goods, $2,796,877 

Woollen  goods, 581,955 

Leather, 1,723,033 

Pig-iron, 739,600 

Rolled  iron, 556,000 

Steam  engines  and  machinery, 1,285,000 

Agricultural  implements, 318,980 

Sawed  and  planed  lumber,     ........  720,000 

Flour, .  8,020,000 


510  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Copper,, $60,000 

Spirituous  and  malt  liquors, 571T927 

Boots  and  shoes,  .    ...    .    .    .    .    ....  I,244y167 

Furniture,    . 626,154 

Soap  and  candles,     .    ..    .    ..........  433,345 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

Maryland  was  one  of  the  first -States  in  the  Union  to 'engage  in 
internal  improvements.  Her  first  effort  was  to  build  the  Chesapeake 
and  Ohio  Canal,  between  Washington  City  and  Cumberland.  This 
work  cost  her  over  $7,000,000,  but  has  never  been  a  source  of  profit 
to  her.  The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  extending  from  Baltimore 
across  the  mountains  to  the  Ohio  River",  a't  Wheeling,  West  Va.,  is 
one  of  the  most  important  lines  in  the  tJnion,  and  was  the  first  ever 
opened  in  this  country  for  purposes  of  general  travel.  Baltimore  is 
connected  with  all  the  important  towns  of  the  State,  and  with  all 
parts  of  the  Union.  In  1872,  the  State  contained  820  miles  of  com- 
pleted railroads  (including  a  few  miles  in  the  District  of  Columbia), 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  $45,000,000.  The  total  length  of  canals 
in  the  State  is  about  200  miles, 

• 
EDUCATION. 

Until  recently  the  public  school  system  of  Maryland  was  not  in 
keeping  with  the  traditional  enterprise  and  public  spirit  of  the  State. 
Since  the  close  of  the  war,  however,  the  system  has  been  reorganized 
and  established  upon  a  much  better  plan. 

The  supervision  of  schools  is  rested  in  a  State  Board,  County  Boards, 
and  School  District  Boards.  The  State  Board  consists  of  four  members, 
appointed  by  the  Governor.  The  principal  of  the  State  Normal 
School  is  ex-offieio  a  member  of  this  board.  The  State  Board  has  the 
general  control  of  the  educational  system  of  the  State.  Each  county; 
is  in  charge  of  a  Board  of  County  School  Commissioners,  appointed 
by  the  judges  of  the  Circuit  Court,  and  consisting  of  three  members. 
Each  District  Board  consists  of  three- persons,  appointed  by  the  County 
School  Commissioners.  The  Cou'nty  Commissioners  appoint  County 
Examiners,  who  have  power  to  grant  to  teachers,  after  examination, 
certificates  of  two  grades,  which,  are  good  for  three  years,  but  no 
longer.  A  State  tax  of  10  cents  on  each  one  hundred  dollars  of  tax- 
able property  throughout  the  State  'is  to  be  levied  annually  for  the 
support  of  the  schools. 


MARYLAND.  511 

The  State  formal  School  is  located  in  Baltimore,  and  was  opened 
in  January,  1866.  In  September,  of  the  same  year,  a  Model  School 
was  added  to  it.  A  liberal  provision  is  made  for  a  system  of  colored 
schools  thonghout  the  State. 

The  schools  of  the  city  of  Baltimore  are  distinct  from  those  of  the 
State,  and  are  controlled  by  the  municipal  authorities.  They  have 
long  been  noted  for  their  excellence.  The  school  system  in  the  city  is 
of  far  older  date  than  that  of  the  State. 

In  1870  Maryland  contained  1347  public  schools,  exclusive  of  those 
of  Baltimore  City,  attended  by  75,402  children.  The  total  amount 
expended  upon  the  public  schools  in  the  same  year  was  $751,310. 

The  principal  collegiate  institutions  are  Washington  College,  at 
Chestertown ;  St.  John's  College,  at  Annapolis ;  St.  Mary's  College, 
at  Baltimore;  St.  Charles's  College,  at  Ellicott's  Mills;  Mount  St. 
Mary's  College,  at  Emmittsburg;  the  College  of  St.  James,  in  Wash- 
ington county;  St.  John's  College,  at  Frederick  City;  St.  Mary's 
Theological  Seminary,  at  Baltimore ;  the  Medical  School  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Maryland,  Washington  Medical  College,  the  College  of 
Dental  Surgery,  and  Baltimore  Female  College,  at  Baltimore;  and 
the  State  Agricultural  College,  in  Prince  George's  county.  They  are 
all  prosperous.  During  the  war  some  of  them  were  temporarily 
closed,  but  all  are  again  in  operation.  The  State  supports  the  Agri- 
cultural College,  and  assists  St.  John's  College,  at  Annapolis,  Wash- 
ington College,  at  Chestertown,  and  the  Baltimore  Female  College,  at 
Baltimore  City. 

There  were  in  Maryland,  in  1870,  about  3353  libraries,  containing 
1,713,483  volumes. 

In  the  same  year  the  number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  pub- 
lished in  the  State  was  as  follows :  daily  8,  tri-weekly  1,  weekly  69, 
miscellaneous  10.  In  the  same  year  several  literary  and  religious 
papers  were  published  in  the  State.  The  political  journals  had  an 
aggregate  annual  circulation  of  31,858,514  copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  city  of  Baltimore  is  well  provided  with  penal  and  charitable 
establishments  of  its  own.  Those  of  the  State  are  the  Penitentiary 
and  the  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 

The  Maryland  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Baltimore.  Extensive 
additions  have  been  made  to  its  buildings,  of  late,  but  there  is  still  a 


512  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

deficiency  in  the  accommodations  provided  for  the  prisoners.     In  No- 
vember, 1867,  the  number  of  inmates  was  679. 

The  Maryland  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  at  Baltimore,  is  an  excel- 
lent institution,  and  is  liberally  supported  by  the  State.  In  January, 
1868,  it  contained  113  patients.  Two  classes  are  received  here — 
State  patients,  and  those  who  pay  their  own  expenses. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  Maryland  was  $12,038,650. 
The  number  of  churches  was  1389. 


FINANCES. 

In  1870,  the  public  debt  of  the  State  was  $13,317,475.  The  re- 
ceipts of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  September  30th,  1870, 
were  $2,522,478,  and  the  expenditures  $2,475,069. 

In  1868,  there  were  32  National  Banks,  with  a  total  capital  of 
$12,790,202,  doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

In  this  State  every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  twenty-one 
years  old,  who  has  resided  one  year  in  the  State  and  six  months  in 
the  county,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections.  The  first  Constitution 
of  Maryland  was  adopted  in  August,  1776.  It  has  been  changed 
several  times,  the  present  Constitution  having  been  adoptee^  in  1867. 
The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor  (elected  by  the  people  for 
four  years),  a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  24  members, 
elected  for  four  years,  one-half  going  out  of  office  every  two  years}, 
and  House  of  Delegates  (of  86  members,  elected  for  two  years),  a 
Comptroller,  and  Treasurer,  elected  for  two  years,  a  Secretary  of  State, 
and  an  Attorney-General  and  Superintendent  of  Labor  and  Agricul- 
ture, elected  for  four  years.  The  Governor,  Legislature,  Comptroller, 
Attorney-General,  and  Superintendent  of  Labor  are  chosen  by  the 
people,  the  Treasurer  by  the  Legislature,  and  the  Secretary  of  State 
and  other  officers  appointed  by  the  Governor  and  confirmed  by  the 
Senate.  No  person  holding  an  office  under  the  United  States,  and  no 
minister  of  the  gospel  is  eligible  to  a  seat  in  either  house.  The  Leg- 
islature meets  biennially.  The  general  election  is  held  in  November.- 

The  Court  of  Appeals  consists  of  the  Chief  Judges  of  the  first  seven 
judicial  districts  of  the  State,  and  a  judge  from  the  city  of  Baltimore, 


MARYLAND.  513 

\vho  is  specially  elected  for  that  purpose.  The  Chief  Justice  is  nomi- 
nated by  the  Governor  and  confirmed  by  the.  Senate.  Four  of  the 
judges  constitute  a  quorum,  but  a  decision  cannot  be  rendered  with- 
out the  concurrence  of  at  least  three.  The  judge  who  tried  the  cause 
in  the  lower  court,  is  not  allowed  to  participate  in  the  decision  in  this 
court.  The  court  has  appellate  jurisdiction  only,  but  that  in  all  parts 
of  the  State.  The  other  courts  are  the  Circuit  Courts  of  the  counties, 
Orphans'  Courts,  and  Justices'  Courts,  held  by  justices  of  the  peace. 
Besides  these  are  the  several  courts — Superior,  Circuit,  and  Criminal — 
of  Baltimore  City. 

Annapolis,  in  Anne  Arundel  county,  is  the  capital. 

For  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  22  counties. 

HISTORY. 

The  first  settlement  in  the  State  was  made  on  Kent  Island,  in 
Chesapeake  Bay,  in  the  year  1631,  by  Captain  William  Clayborne, 
with  a  party  of  men  from  Virginia.  On  the  20th  of  June,  the  terri- 
tory of  Terra  Marise,  or  Mary's  Land,  so  named  in  honor  of  Queen 
Henrietta  Maria  of  England,  was  granted  by  Charles  I.  to  Cecilius 
Calvert,  second  Lord  Baltimore.  Calvert  sent  out  a  colony  in  two 
vessels,  the  Ark  and  the  Dove,  in  November,  1633.  This  expedition 
reached  St.  Clement's  Island  on  the  25th  of  March,  1634,  and  on  the 
27th  founded  the  settlement  of  St.  Mary's  (in  what  is  now  St.  Mary's 
county),  on  the  mainland.  The  expedition  was  composed  mainly  of 
Catholic  gentlemen,  their  families,  and  followers,  and  was  in  charge 
of  Leonard  Calvert,  the  brother  of  Lord  Baltimore,  who  was  ap- 
pointed Governor.  As  soon  as  the  colony  was  firmly  established, 
other  emigrants  came  from  England  in  considerable  numbers,  and 
Clayborne,  having  refused  to  submit  to  the  authority  of  the  Gover- 
nor, was  driven  from  Kent  Island.  The  Indians  gave  the  settlers 
some  trouble,  but  were  promptly  made  to  keep  the  peace.  The  first 
Legislative  Assembly  met  in  1639. 

In  1642,  a  band  of  Puritans,  expelled  from  Virginia  for  refusing 
to  conform  to  the  worship  of  the  Church  of  England,  settled  in  Mary- 
land, and  were  not  long  in  giving  evidences  of  their  determination  to 
disregard  the  authority  of  the  rightful  government  of  the  province. 
Clayborne  also  came  back  and  regained  possession  of  Kent  Island. 
The  Governor  made  an  effort  to  expel  him,  but  he  and  his  followers, 
aided  by  the  Puritan  settlers,  not  only  defeated  this  eifort,  but  seized 
33 


514  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  government  of  the  province,  and  forced  Calvert  to  fly  into  Vir- 
ginia, in  1644.  Clayborne  held  the  control  of  affairs  until  1646, 
when  Calvert  entered  the  province  at  the  head  of  a  considerable  force, 
and  reestablished  the  authority  of  the  proprietary.  In  1649,  the  As- 
sembly enacted  this  wise  statute :  "  Whereas  the  enforcing  of  the  con- 
science in  matters  of  religion  hath  frequently  fallen  out  to  be  of 
dangerous  consequences  in  those  Commonwealths  where  it  has  been 
practised,  and  for  the  more  quiet  and  peaceful  government  of  this 
Province,  and  the  better  to  preserve -mutual  love  and  amity  among 
the  inhabitants,  no  person  within  this  Province,  professing  to  believe 
in  Jesus  Christ,  shall  be  anyways  troubled,  molested,  or  discounte- 
nanced for  his  or  her  religion,  or  in  the  free  exercise  thereof." 

The  Puritans  gave  great  trouble  to  the  colony.  They  had  founded 
the  town  of  Providence,  which  was  afterwards  called  Annapolis,  and 
were  centred  mainly  in  that  part  of  the  State.  Finally  they  were 
granted  the  county  of  Charles.  Upon  the  establishment  of  the  Com- 
monwealth in  England,  they  insisted  that  the  colony  ought  to  submit 
to  it,  but  the  authorities  proclaimed  Charles  II.  When  the  Assembly 
met  again,  it  was  found  that  the  Puritans  were  largely  in  excess  of 
the  followers  of  the  Proprietary.  In  1652,  the  Commissioners  sent 
out  from  England  by  the  Parliament  arrived,  and  completely  estab- 
lished the  authority  of  the  Commonwealth.  Governor  Stone,  the 
representative  of  Lord  Baltimore,  was  removed.  One  of  the  Com- 
missioners referred  to  was  no  other  than  Clayborne,  the  old  enemy 
of  Lord  Baltimore.  Kent  Island  was  given  up  to  him,  and  he  was 
also  assigned  Palmer  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Susquehanna  River. 
In  1654,  Lord  Baltimore  made  a  vigorous  attempt  by  force  of  arms 
to  regain  his  rights.  A  bitter  contest  was  begun,  and  continued  with 
alternate  success  and  failure  until  March  25th,  1655,  when  Lord 
Baltimore's  forces  made  an  attack  on  Providence  (Annapolis),  and 
were  repulsed  with  terrible  slaughter  by  the  Puritans,  the  whole  force 
being  killed  or  captured.  Governor  Stone  was  among  the  prisoners, 
all  of  whom  were  condemned  to  death.  It  is  known  that  at  least  four 
of  them  were  executed.  The  Puritans  continued  to  hold  the  govern- 
ment until  1657,  when  Lord  Baltimore's  rights  were  restored,  and  his 
brother  Philip  Calvert  appointed  Governor.  His  family  continued 
to  hold  the  government  until  1688,  when  William  and  Mary,  having 
come  to  the  throne  of  England,  assumed  the  control  of  the  Province. 
From  this  time  the  Governor  was  appointed  by  the  Crown,  until 
1714,  when  Benedict  Charles  Calvert,  the  lineal  heir  of  the  first  pro- 


MARYLAND.  515 

prietor,  was  granted  the  government  again.  Unlike  the  rest  of  his 
family,  he  was  a  Protestant,  which  was  the  cause  of  his  succession  to 
his  hereditary  rights. 

In  1691,  the  seat  of  government  was  transferred  to  Providence,  the 
name  of  which  was  changed  to  Annapolis.  In  1695,  a  post  route,  the 
first  in  America,  was  established  from  the  Potomac,  through  Anna- 
polis, to  Philadelphia.  In  1729,  the  town  of  Baltimore  was  founded,  i 
Frederick  City  in  1745,  and  Georgetown  (now  in  the  District  of 
Columbia)  in  1751.  By  1756  the  population  of  the  colony  had  in- 
creased to  154,188  souls,  of  whom  over  40,000  were  negroes.  The 
colony  also  increased  in  material  prosperity.  By  the  year  mentioned 
above,  the  annual  export  of  tobacco  was  30,000  hogsheads,  and,  in 
spite  of  the  efforts  of  the  home  government  to  prevent  it,  there  were 
8  furnaces  and  9  forges  for  smelting  copper  in  operation  in  the 
province. 

During  the  wars  with  France,  Maryland  contributed  liberally  to 
the  common  cause.  Between  1754  and  1758,  her  western  frontier 
suffered  severely  from  the  savages,  whose  outrages  were  stopped  only 
by  the  capture  of  Fort  Duquesne. 

The  colony  offered  a  spirited  resistance  to  the  injustice  of  the  home 
Government,  and  promptly  made  common  cause  in  this  matter  with 
the  other  provinces.  The  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  caused  the 
overthrow  of  the  proprietary  government,  which  patriotically  sub- 
mitted to  the  necessity,  and  in  August,  1776,  a  Convention  of  the 
people  adopted  a  State  Constitution,  which  went  into  immediate  ope- 
ration. The  State  made  liberal  contributions  of  men  and  money  for 
the  maintenance  of  the  war.  The  "  Maryland  Line"  won  a  name  in 
this  struggle,  which  is  one  of  the  most  precious  legacies  they  have  left 
to 'their  children.  Congress  assembled  at  Baltimore,  and  afterwards 
at  Annapolis,  towards  the  close  of  the  war,  and  it  was  at  the  latter 
place  that  Washington  resigned  his  commission,  on  the  23d  of  Decem- 
ber, 1783.  Upon  the  close  of  the  war,  great  and  successful  efforts 
were  made  to  settle  the  western  part  of  the  State.  Maryland  ratified 
the  Federal  Constitution  April  28th,  1788. 

During  the  war  of  1812,  the  shores  of  the  Chesapeake  Bay  were 
brutally  ravaged  by  a  British  fleet  commanded  by  Admiral  Cockbtirn. 
French  town,  Havre  de  Grace,  Frederictown,  and  Georgetown  were 
sacked  and  burned.  The  militia  of  the  State  were  defeated  at  Bla- 
densburg,  where  they  attempted  to  arrest  the  march  of  the  British 
upon  Washington  City,  yi  1814.  They  repulsed  the  same  force  A 


516  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

North  Point,  near  Baltimore,  on  the  13th  of  September,  1814,  and 
killed  the  British  Commander,  General  Ross;  and  on  the  14th  re- 
pulsed the  attack  of  the  enemy's  fleet  upon  Fort  McHenry,  which 
protected  the  entrance  to  the  city  of  Baltimore. 

When  the  question  of  establishing  a  seat  of  Government  was 
brought  up,  near  the  close  of  the  last  century,  Maryland  granted  to 
the  United  States  60  square  miles  of  her  territory,  lying  near  the  falls 
of  the  Potomac.  Virginia  united  with  her,  and  added  enough  of  her 
own  territory  to  make  the  grant  consist  of  100  square  miles.  The 
offer  was  accepted  by  the  United  States,  and  the  District  of  Columbia 
was  erected.  The  seat  of  Government  was  transferred  to  it  in  1800. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  late  war,  it  was  generally  supposed  that 
Maryland  would  secede  from  the  Union,  and  join  the  other  States  of 
the  South  in  their  attempt  to  establish  a  new  Confederacy.  This 
course  would  undoubtedly  have  been  pursued,  had  the  State  been 
free  to  act  as  it  wished ;  but  at  the  first  opening  of  the  struggle,  it 
was  promptly  occupied  by  the  forces  of  the  General  Government. 
During  the  war,  it  was  nominally  allowed  to  control  its  own  affairs, 
but  was  really  held  down  by  force  until  the  cessation  of  hostilities. 
It  was  invaded  three  times  by  a  Confederate  army,  and,  with  the 
District  of  Columbia,  formed  the  base  from  which  the  operations  of 
the  Federal  Army  of  the  Potomac  were  conducted.  The  battles  of 
South  Mountain  and  Antietam,  or  Sharpsburg,  and  Monocacy  Bridge, 
near  Frederick  City,  were  fought  in  the  western  part  of  the  State; 
and  Maryland  Heights,  opposite  Harper's  Ferry,  on  the  Potomac, 
bore  a  prominent  part  in  the  military  operations  around  that  place. 
Raiding  parties  entered  the  State  repeatedly  from  Virginia,  penetrat- 
ing upon  one  occasion  beyond  Baltimore,  and  a  number  of  minor 
conflicts  occurred  between  these  parties  and  detachments  of  the  Union 
army.  During  the  war,  the  State  furnished  a  considerable  force  to 
the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States ;  but  a  much  larger  number 
of  native  Marylanders  crossed  the  Potomac  and  entered  the  Southern 
army. 

Slavery  was  abolished  by  a  State  Convention  in  1864. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  most  important  cities  and  towns  in  the 
State  are,  Baltimore,  Frederick,  Cumberland,  Cambridge,  Easton,  and 
Chestertown. 


MARYLAND.  511 

ANNAPOLIS, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Anne  Arundel  county,  on  the 
south  or  right  bank  of  the  Severn  River,  2  miles  from  its  entrance 
into  Chesapeake  Bay.  It  is  beautifully  located  in  full  view  of  the 
bay,  of  which  it  commands  extensive  and  picturesque  views.  It  is 
30  miles  south  by  east  from  Baltimore,  and  37  miles  east  by  north 
from  Washington.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  country,  and 
bears  marks  of  its  antiquity  on  every  hand.  The  buildings  are  gene- 
rally in  the  style  of  a  century  ago,  though  the  city  contains  many- 
handsome  modern  edifices.  As  a  rule  the  town  is  well  built.  The 
plan  of  the  city  bears  some  resemblance  to  that  of  the  National  Capi- 
tal, all  of  the  streets  radiating  from  two  points,  the  State  House  and 
the  Episcopal  church.  The  city  bears  ample  evidence  of  the  wealth 
and  prosperity  which  it  once  possessed  in  many  ancient  and  extensive 
mansions,  with  large  ranges  of  offices  and  stables,  now  gone  to  decay, 
and  in  some  cases  uninhabited. 

The  State  House  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  is  a  vener- 
able edifice  of  brick,  with  a  lofty  dome  and  cupola.  It  is  situated  in 
a  small  park  on  the  highest  point  of  the  city,  and  contains  the  halls 
of  the  Legislature,  the  offices  of  the  Governor  and  Secretary  of  State, 
and  the  State  Library.  The  hall  now  occupied  by  the  State  Senate 
was  used  for  the  sessions  of  the  Continental  Congress  near  the  close 
of  the  Revolution,  and  it  was  here  that  Washington  resigned  his 
commission  as  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  American  armies.  The 
hall  is  now  ornamented  with  a  large  painting  commemorating  that 
event.  It  is  from  the  pencil  of  Mr.  Edwin  White,  of  New  York. 
To  the  east  of  the  State  House  stands  the  official  mansion  of  the 
Governor  of  Maryland,  who  is  obliged  to  reside  here  during  his  term 
of  office. 

Annapolis  is  lighted  with  gas,  but  many  of  the  buildings  still  use 
oil  lamps.  It  is  connected  with  Baltimore  and  Washington  City  by 
a  railway,  and  with  the  former  city  by  a  line  of  steamers.  It  was 
formerly  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  but  is  now  important  only  as 
the  capital  of  the  State.  It  contains  6  churches,  and  2  newspaper  of- 
fices, and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  popu- 
lation was  5744. 

The  city  is  well  supplied  with  public  and  private  schools.  St.  John's 
College  is  a  flourishing  institution,  supported  in  part  by  the  State.  It 
was  closed  during  the  civil  war,  but  is  now  in  a  fair  way  to  regain  its 
former  prosperity. 


518  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Annapolis  is  the  seat  of  the  Naval  Academy  of  the  United  States, 
established  during  the  administration  of  President  Polk,  the  Hon.  Geo. 
Bancroft  being  Secretary  of  the  Navy.  It  is  located  in  the  northeast 
part  of  the  city,  immediately  on  the  shore  of  the  Severn,  and  is  de- 
signed for  the  education  #nd  training  of  officers  of  the  United  States 
Navy. 

Annapolis  was  founded  about  1649,  and  was  at  first  called  Provi- 
dence. The  events  of  its  early  history  have  been  already  related  in 
the  sketch  of  the  history  of  the  State.  In  1708  it  was  chartered  as  a 
city,  and 'named  Annapolis,  in  honor  of  Queen  Anne,  who  had  be- 
stowed several  valuable  presents  upon  the  town.  It  was  for  many 
years  the  most  important  city  in  Maryland,  but  was  at  length  sur- 
passed by  Baltimore,  to  which  city  its  large  trade  was  transferred. 

BALTIMORE, 

The  largest  and  most  important  city  of  the  State,  and  the  sixth  city 
of  the  United  States,  is  situated  in  Baltimore  county,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Patapsco  Kiver,  about  12  miles  from  its  entrance  into 
Chesapeake  Bay.  It  is  38  miles  northeast  from  Washington,  98 
miles  southwest  from  Philadelphia,  and  200  miles  from  the  ocean  by 
the  course  of  the  Chesapeake.  The  city  is  built  partly  along  the  river 
shore,  and  partly  along  a  range  of  hills  overhanging  the  Patapsco  and 
commanding  distant  views  of  the  bay.  Below  Baltimore  the  river 
widens  into  a  broad  estuary,  several  rniles  in  width.  Some  portions 
of  the  city  are  100  feet  above  tide  water,  and  the  view  of  Baltimore 
from  the  river  is  very  beautiful  and  attractive.  This  rolling  charac- 
ter of  the  ground  enables  the  city  to  provide  the  best  system  of 
sewerage  in  the  country,  and  does  much  to  render  Baltimore  a  re- 
markably clean  city.  "  Perhaps  no  city  in  the  United  States  has  such 
a  picturesque  sight  as  Baltimore,  covering  as  it  does  a  number  of  emi- 
nences, which,  however  inconvenient  they  may  be  for  the  residents, 
furnish  a  pleasant  variety  for  the  stranger.  If  the  visitor  ascends  the 
Washington  Monument,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  city,  on  a  hill, 
itself  100  feet  above  tide,  he  has  one  of  the  finest  panoramas  furnished 
by  any  city  in  the  Union.  Immediately  beneath  and  around  him  are 
some  of  the  most  capacious  streets,  lined  with  residences  rarely 
equalled  in  elegance,  size,  and  position.  To  the  north  and  northwest 
are  the  newer  and  finer  buildings,  constituting  the  fashionable  part  of 
the  city,  while  to  the  south  lies  the  great  centre  of  trade;  a  little  to  the 
southeast  is  the  harbor,  and  beyond  it  Federal  Hill ;  while  far  in  the 


MARYLAND. 


519 


BATTLE  MONUMENT. 

distance,  but  nearly  in  the  same  direction,  stretches  the  beautiful  arm 
of  the  bay  on  which  Baltimore  stands.  To  the  east  and  southeast, 
across  Jones'  Falls  (a  small  creek  which  divides  the  city  into  two 
portions),  lie  the  Old  Town  and  Fell's  Point ;  and  to  the  west  the 
newer  portions,  which  are  extending  rapidly.  The  view  is  varied  by 
the  dome  of  the  Catholic  cathedral,  the  Unitarian  church,  and  the 
Exchange,  by  the  Shot-tower,  by  the  Battle  Monument,  and  by  the 
steeples  and  towers  of  the  various  churches  scattered  in  all  directions; 
the  whole  girt  on  the  northwest  and  east  by  beautiful  hills  crowned 
with  a  natural  growth  of  trees.  Although  the  site  of  the  city  is  such 
as  to  cause  irregularity  in  some  of  the  streets,  the  different  sections  are 
laid  out  with  great  uniformity.  Baltimore  street,  the  fashionable 
promenade,  and  seat  of  the  retail  and  jobbing  business,  divides  the 
city  into  two  nearly  equal  portions,  the  larger  part  lying  to  the  north. 
Charles  street,  crossing  this  at  right  angles,  also  divides  the  city  into 
two  nearly  equal  parts,  the  portion  called  North  Charles  street  being 
mostly  occupied  with  elegant  residences,  and  South  Charles  street, 
between  Baltimore  and  Lombard  streets,  with  extensive  wholesale 
warehouses. 


520  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"From  the  number  and  prominence  of  its  monuments,  Baltimore 
has  been  denominated  the  '  Monumental  City/  The  most  remarkable 
of  these  is  the  Washington  Monument,  standing  in  a  small,  open  area 
at  the  intersection  of  Charles  and  Monument  streets.  Its  base,  50 
feet  square  and  20  high,  supports  a  doric  column  176J  feet  in  height, 
which  is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  statue  of  Washington,  16  feet  high, 
giving  its  summit  an  elevation  of  312J  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
harbor.  The  shaft,  20  feet  square  at  the  base,  and  14  at  the  top,  is 
ascended  by  means  of  a  winding  stairway  within.  The  whole  is  con- 
structed of  white  marble,  and  cost  $200,000.  Battle  Monument,  also 
a  beautiful  structure  of  marble,  is  situated  in  Monument  Square,  in 
Calvert  street,  near  Lexington  street.  From  the  base,  which  is 
square  and  ornamented  with  various  devices,  rises  a  facial  column,  18 
feet  high,  on  the  bands  of  which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  those  who 
fell  while  defending  the  city  from  the  attack  of  the  British,  September 
12th,  1814.  This  is  surmounted  by  a  beautiful  statue  of  the  Goddess 
of  Liberty,  7J  feet  high,  making  the  entire  height  of  the  monument 
52J  feet.  Another  object  of  much  interest  to  strangers  is  the  Mer- 
chants' Shot-tower,  the  highest,  it  is  said,  in  the  world,  having  an 
elevation  of  246  feet."-* 

The  public  buildings  are  handsome.  The  City  Hall,  on  Holliday 
street,  is  a  magnificent  building  of  white  marble,  covering  an  entire 
square ;  the  U.  8.  Court  House,  on  Fayette  street,  is  a  fine  granite 
structure ;  and  the  U.  S.  Custom  House  and  Post  Office,  on  Lombard 
and  Gay  streets,  the  City  Jail,  the  Maryland  and  Peabody  Institutes, 
the  latter  of  white  marble,  and  the  Masonic  Hall,  also  of  white  marble, 
are  imposing  structures.  The  depots  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  and 
the  Northern  Central  Railways  are  among  the  handsomest  buildings 
of  the  city.  There  are  also  many  elegant  buildings  of  stone,  iron,  and 
marble,  used  for  mercantile  purposes,  which  must  be  included  among 
the  ornaments  of  the  city.  Many  of  the  churches  are  also  worthy  of 
notice  in  this  connection. 

The  educational,  literary,  and  scientific  institutions  of  Baltimore 
have  always  been  amongst  the  best  in  the  land.  The  public  schools 
were  famous  when  those  of  the  other  large  American  cities  were  striv- 
ing for  the  excellence  they  have  since  attained.  In  1870,  the  city 
contained  119  schools,  attended  by  23,913  pupils.  In  the  same  year 
the  city  paid  $26,322  for  schools  for  colored  children.  The  private 


Lippincott's  Gazetteer. 


MARYLAND.  521 

schools  are  numerous,  of  a  high  character,  and  are  well  attended.  The 
higher  schools  are  the  University  of  Maryland,  the  Medical  Depart- 
ment of  which  was  founded  in  1807  ;  Loyola  College-,  the  Theological 
School,  formerly  connected  with  St.  Mary's  (R.  C.)  College  ;  the  Balti- 
more College  of  Pharmacy  ;  and  the  College  of  Dental  Surgeons.  The 
Peabody  Institute,  on  Charles  and  Monument  streets,  is  the  gift  of 
George  Peabody,  and  is  devoted  to  literary  and  scientific  purposes. 
It  contains  a  good  and  growing  library,  and  a  gallery  of  fine  arts. 
The  Athanceum,  St.  Paul  and  Saratoga  streets,  contains  the  Mercan- 
tile Library,  about  20,000  volumes,  and  the  Baltimore  Library,  15,000 
volumes.  It  is  also  occupied  by  the  Historical  Society  of  Maryland, 
which  possesses  a  library  of  1000  volumes,  and  a  collection  of  papers 
and  other  relics.  An  annual  exhibition  of  paintings  is  held  in  the 
rooms  of  this  society.  The  Maryland  Institute  occupies  a  large  build- 
ing on  Baltimore  street  near  Jones'  Falls.  The  lower  part  is  used 
as  a  market.  The  upper  part  is  an  immense  hall,  in  which  an  annual 
exhibition  of  the  mechanic  arts  is  held.  It  possesses  a  fine  library. 
The  reading  room  belonging  to  the  Board  of  Trade  is  supplied  with 
newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  benevolent  and  charitable  institutions  are  the  Maryland  Hos- 
pital for  the  Insane,  situated  on  a  hill  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city ; 
the  Mount  Hope  Institution,  for  the  same  purpose,  under  the  charge 
of  the  Sisters  of  Charity ;  the  Baltimore  Infirmary,  with  beds  for  300 
patients;  the  Maryland  Institution  for  the  Instruction  of  the  Blind; 
the  Church  Home  and  Infirmary,  connected  with  the  Episcopal 
Church  ;  the  Union  Protestant  Infirmary  ;  the  Aged  Women9 s  Home  ; 
the  Old  Men's  Home;  the  Home  of  the  Friendless ;  the  House  of  the 
Good  Shepherd,  for  the  reformation  of  fallen  women ;  the  Almshouse, 
and  four  Dispensaries. 

The  prisons  and  reformatory  establishments  are  the  State  Peniten- 
tiary, the  City  Jail,  a  handsome  granite  structure,  and  the  House  of 
Refuge,  for  the  reformation  of  juvenile  delinquents. 

The  hotels  of  Baltimore  are  good.  The  principal  are  the  City 
Hotel  (Barnum's),  and  the  Gilmore  and  Eutaw  Houses. 

Baltimore  is  very  far  behind  its  eastern  rivals  in  many  things.  The 
streets  are  badly  paved,  cobble  stones  predominating,  and  the  side- 
walks are  of  brick.  While  the  city  contains  a  large  number  of  mag- 
nificent buildings,  its  principal  thoroughfare,  Baltimore  street,  cannot 
compare  with  the  corresponding  streets  of  either  New  York,  Phila- 
delphia, Boston,  Chicago,  or  St.  Louis.  In  the  private  portions,  the 


522 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


BALTIMORE  STREET. 


principal  material  used  is  brick,  with  white  marble  trimmings. 
Brown  stone  is  now  becoming  common  in  the  wealthier  sections.  The 
city  is  noted  for  the  large  number  of  small  dwellings  which  it  con- 
tains. These  furnish  homes  for  the  working  classes,  who  live  in 
greater  comfort  and  privacy  than  in  almost  any  other  large  city  in  the 
world.  Few  houses  contain  more  than  one  family.  The  more  fashion- 
able quarters  are  beautifully  built  up,  and  will  compare  favorably 
with  any  city  in  the  country. 

Street  railway  lines  connect  the  various  parts  of  the  city.  The  cars 
of  every  line  touch  Baltimore  street  below  Calvert  and  above  Gay 
street,  and  thus  bring  all  points  in  connection  with  the  business  centre. 
Similar  lines  connect  the  city  with  its  principal  suburbs. 

There  are  between  160  and  170  churches  in  Baltimore.  Some  of 
these  are  very  costly  and  beautiful.  Baltimore  is  the  See  of  a  Roman 
Catholic  Archbishop,  who  is  the  Primate  of  the  United  States. 

The  city  contains  several  parks  and  pleasure  grounds.  These  are 
Union,  Franklin,  and  Lafayette  squares,  and  Patterson  and  Druid 
Hill  parks.  Patterson  Park  contains  36  acres,  and  embraces  the 


MARYLAND.  523 

earthworks  thrown  up  for  the  defence  of  the  city  in  the  war  of  1812. 
Druid  Hill  Park  contains  550  acres,  and  abounds  in  fine  trees  and 
shrubbery.  It  is  naturally  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  American 
parks,  and  has  been  greatly  improved  and  ornamented  since  its  pur- 
chase by  the  city.  It  is  situated  in  the  northern  suburbs  of  the  city, 
beyond  the  extreme  end  of  Madison  Avenue. 

The  cemeteries  are  Greenmount,  Loudon  Park,  Baltimore,  Mount 
Olivet,  Mount  Carmel,  and  the  Western.  Greenmount  is  very  beauti- 
ful, and  contains  many  handsome  monuments. 

The  theatres  of  Baltimore  are  behind  those  of  the  other  large  cities 
of  the  Union.  The  principal  are  the  Holliday  Street  Theatre  and  the 
Concordia  Opera  House. 

Baltimore  is  the  terminus  of  five  railway  lines,  which  connect  it 
with  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway  is 
one  of  the  great  trunk  lines  to  the  West,  and  one  of  the  finest  works 
in  the  world.  By  means  of  these  it  conducts  an  enormous  trade  with 
the  West,  and  with  the  interior  of  the  State  of  Virginia.  Steamboats 
ply  between  Baltimore  and  the  principal  towns  on  the  Chesapeake 
Bay  and  the  rivers  emptying  into  it,  and  a  large  coasting  trade  is 
carried  on  from  this  port.  A  line  of  first-class  steamers  connects  the 
city  with  the  port  of  Bremen,  in  Germany,  and  is  bringing  a  large 
portion  of  the  emigration  from  that  country  through  the  port  of  Balti- 
more. Baltimore  enjoys  very  great  facilities  for  commerce  from  its 
situation,  and  needs  but  the  energy  and  enterprise  of  its  former  days 
to  be  a  more  important  commercial  city  than  it  is.  In  1864,  the 
arrivals  at  the  port  of  Baltimore,  not  counting  the  bay  craft,  were 
1143  steamers,  38  ships,  137  barks,  197  brigs,  1025  schooners,  mak- 
ing a  total  of  2540  vessels.  In  the  same  year,  the  foreign  imports 
of  Baltimore  were  $6,076,300;  and  the  exports  were  $12,362,448. 
The  registered  tonnage  for  the  same  year  was  45,198 ;  enrolled  and 
licensed,  203,497  ;  making  a  total  of  248,695  tons.  By  means  of  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  and  Northern  Central  Railways,  a  heavy  coal 
trade  is  carried  on  through  Baltimore.  Large  quantities  of  this  are 
shipped  from  Locust  Point. 

Baltimore  is  largely  engaged  in  manufactures,  Jones7  Falls  furnish- 
ing excellent  water-power.  Some  of  the  largest  machine  shops  in  the 
country  are  located  here.  The  principal  manufactures  are  cotton  and 
iron  goods,  machinery,  steam  engines,  agricultural  implements,  and 
flour. 

The  city  is  abundantly  supplied  with  water  from  Swann  Lake  and 


524  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Jones'  Falls.  The  water  is  brought  a  distance  of  seven  miles  to  the 
city  reservoirs,  which  are  from  110  to  1*50  feet  above  tide- water. 
The  city  is  lighted  with  gas  of  an  excellent  quality,  and  is  provided 
with  a  police  and  fire  alarm  telegraph,  an  efficient  police  force,  and 
an  admirable  steam  fire  department.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  267,354. 

In  the  year  1729,  the  General  Assembly  of  Maryland  took  meas- 
ures for  "  erecting  a  town  on  the  north  side  of  the  Patapsco  in  Balti- 
more county."  The  site  had  been  settled  as  early  as  1682,  by  David 
Jones,  who  gave  his  name  to  the  small  stream  which  now  flows 
through  the  city  of  Baltimore,  dividing  it  into  "  old  "  and  "  new  " 
town.  On  the  12th  of  January,  1730,  a  town  of  60  acres  of  land  was 
laid  out  by  the  county  surveyor  and  commissioners,  and  called  Balti- 
more in  honor  of  Cecilius  Calvert  Lord  Baltimore.  "  In  the  same 
year,  William  Fell,  a  ship-carpenter,  having  purchased  a  tract  east 
of  the  falls,  called  it  Fell's  Point,  after  his  own  name,  which  it  still 
bears.  In  1732,  a  new  town  of  10  acres  in  20  lots,  was  laid  out  on 
the  east  of  the  falls,  and  called  Jonestown,  in  honor  of  David  Jones, 
the  first  settler.  The  name  has  long  been  forgotten,  and  as  a  settle- 
ment existed  there  before  that  of  Baltimore,  it  was  called  '  old  town/ 
Jonestown  was  united  to  Baltimore  in  1745,  dropping  its  own  name, 
and  two  years  afterward  Baltimore,  which  properly  lay  up  about  the 
head  of  the  <  basin/  near  the  foot  of  the  present  South  Charles  street, 
was  extended  as  far  eastwardly  as  Jones7  Falls,  under  an  express  pro- 
vision that  there  was  nothing  in  the  Act  recognizing  a  right  to  'elect 
delegates  to  the  Assembly  as  representatives  from  the  town.'  This 
was  the  earliest  manifestation  of  that  singular  jealousy,  which  has 
ever  since  been  shown  in  the  Legislature  by  the  Maryland  county  mem- 
bers against  the  city  of  Baltimore." 

In  1755,  Baltimore  contained  but  25  houses  and  200  inhabitants, 
In  1767,  it  was  made  the  county  seat.  In  1769,  the  first  fire  engine 
was  introduced.  In  1773,  William  Goddard  began  the  publication 
of  the  "  Maryland  Journal  and  Baltimore  Advertiser/'  In  the  same 
.year  a  line  of  stage  coaches  and  a  line  of  sailing  packets  were  estab- 
lished between  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia ;  and  a  theatre  was  built 
on  Albemarle  street.  In  1775,  Baltimore  contained  564  houses,  and 
5934  inhabitants.  In  1776,  Philadelphia  having  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  the  British,  Congress  removed  to  Baltimore,  and  held  its 
sessions  in  a  building  on  the  southeast  corner  of  Baltimore  and  Lib- 
erty streets.  In  1784,  the  streets  were  lighted  with  oil  lamps,  and 


MARYLAND. 


525 


SCENE  ON  BALTIMORE  AND   OHIO  RAILWAY. 

3  constables  and  14  watchmen  were  appointed  "for  the  security  of 
the  town."  In  1796,  Baltimore  was  incorporated  as  a  city,  the  popu- 
lation being  about  20,000.  In  1800,  the  population  was  26,514. 
The  city  was  now  highly  prosperous,  and  was  possessed  of  a  large 
and  thriving  trade  with  all  parts  of  the  world.  In  1814,  it  was 
attacked  by  the  British,  who  were  repulsed  at  North  Point  and  at 
Fort  McHenry,  by  both  land  and  water.  In  1829,  the  first  public 
school  was  opened.  In  1813,  the  first  steamboat,  called  the  Chesa- 
peake, was  placed  upon  the  line  to  Philadelphia  via  Frenchtown  and 
Newcastle,  Del.  On  the  4th  of  July,  1828,  the  corner-stone  of  the 
great  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway  was  laid  by  the  venerable  Charles 
Carroll  of  Carrollton.  During  the  civil  war,  the  city  was  occupied 
by  the  United  States  troops.  It  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody  riot  on  the 
19th  of  April,  1861. 

FREDERICK    CITY, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Frederick  county,  2  miles 
west  of  the  Monocacy  River,  65  miles  west  of  Baltimore,  and  44 


526  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

miles  northwest  of  Washington  City.  It  is  3  miles  distant  from  the 
main  line  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  branch  railway.  The  city  is  built  chiefly  of  brick  and 
stone;  the  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  and  cross  each  other  at 
right-angles,  and  are  shaded  with  fine  trees.  The  Court  House  is  a 
handsome  building.  The  town  contains  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum 
of  Maryland,  11  churches,  a  college  and  an  academy  and  several  fine 
schools,  both  public  and  private.  Two  newspapers  are  published  here. 
Frederick  is  next  to  Baltimore  in  wealth  and  commercial  impor- 
tance. It  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  agricultural  section,  and  pos- 
sesses a  considerable  trade.  To  a  limited  extent  it  is  engaged  in 
manufactures,  leather,  iron,  wool,  paper,  and  flour  being  the  principal 
articles  produced.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  is  supplied  with  water, 
and  is  provided  with  a  steam  fire  department.  It  is  governed  by  a 
Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  8526. 

CUMBERLAND, 

The  third  city  of  the  State  with  regard  to  population,  is  situated  in 
Alleghany  county,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Potomac  River,  179  miles 
west-by-north  of  Baltimore,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  the  Balti- 
more and  Ohio  Railway.  It  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  National 
Road.  The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal,  whose  eastern  terminus  is 
at  Georgetown,  D.  C.,  ends  here.  The  town  is  connected  with  Pitts- 
burg,  Pa.,  by  the  Connellsville  Railway.  It  is  beautifully  located  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  is  generally  well  built.  The  Court 
House  is  the  principal  building. 

The  importance  of  Cumberland  is  due  to  its  vicinity  to  the  coal  and 
iron  mines  of  Maryland,  which  lie  but  a  few  miles  to  the  west  of  it, 
and  in  the  mountains.  Immense  quantities  of  a  semi-bituminous  coal 
are  mined  in  this  region  and  shipped  east  and  west. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  It  contains  about  6  churches,  several  schools,  and  3  news- 
paper offices.  In  1870  the  population  was  8056. 

MISCELLANIES. 

THE    BALTIMORE    RIOT. 

A  few  days  after  the  declaration  of  war,  the  town  of  Baltimore  was  seriously 
disturbed.  Some  harsh  strictures  on  the  conduct  of  Government  having  appeared 
in  a  newspaper  of  that  city,  entitled  the  Federal  Republican,  the  resentment  of 
the  opposite  party  was  shown  by  destroying  the  office  and  press  of  that  establish- 


MARYLAND.  52T 

ment.  The  commotion  excited  by  this  outrage  had,  however,  in  a  great  measure 
subsided,  and  the  transaction  was  brought  before  a  criminal  court  for  investiga- 
tion. But  events  more  alarming  and  tragical  shortly  afterwards  succeeded.  On 
the  26th  of  July,  Mr.  Hanson,  the  leading  editor  of  the  obnoxious  journal,  who 
had  deemed  it  prudent  to  leave  the  disordered  city,  returned,  accompanied  by  his 
political  adherents  ;  amongst  whom  was  General  Henry  Lee,  of  Alexandria,  an 
officer  distinguished  in  the  Revolution  for  his  bravery  in  partisan  warfare  at  the 
head  of  a  legion  of  cavalry,  afterwards  Governor  of  Virginia,  and  a  representa- 
tive from  that  State  in  the  Congress  of  the  Federal  Government.  Determined  to 
re-commence  the  paper,  by  first  printing  it  in  Georgetown,  in  the  District  of 
Columbia,  and  then  transmitting  it  to  Baltimore  for  distribution,  a  house  was  for 
this  purpose  occupied  in  Charles  street,  secured  against  external  violence,  and 
guarded  by  a  party  well  provided  for  defence.  On  the  28th,  papers  were  accord- 
ingly issued.  These  contained  severe  animadversions  against  the  Mayor,  police, 
and  the  people  of  Baltimore,  for  the  depredations  committed  on  the  establishment 
in  the  preceding  month,  and  were  generally  circulated  throughout  the  city. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  it  became  known  that  Mr.  Hanson  was  in  the  new  of- 
fice in  Charles  street,  and  it  was  early  whispered  that  the  building  would  be  as- 
sailed. A  number  of  citizens  who  espoused  his  opinions  went,  therefore,  to  the 
house,  and  joined  in  its  protection.  Towards  the  evening,  a  crowd  of  boys  col- 
lected, who,  after  using  opprobrious  epithets  to  those  within,  began  to  throw 
stones  at  the  windows  ;  and  about  the  same  time  a  person  on  the  pavement,  en- 
deavoring to  dissuade  the  youths  from  mischief,  was  severely  wounded  by  some- 
thing ponderous  thrown  from  the  house.  They  were  cautioned  from  the  windows 
to  desist ;  but  still  continued  to  assail  the  place  with  stones.  Two  muskets  we're 
then  fired  from  the  upper  story ;  charged,  it  was  supposed,  with  blank  cartridges, 
to  deter  them  from  further  violence  ;  immediately  the  crowd  in  the  street  greatly 
increased  ;  the  boys  were  displaced  by  men  ;  the  sashes  of  the  lower  windows 
were  broken,  and  attempts  made  to  force  the  door.  Muskets,  in  quick  succession, 
were  discharged  from  the  house  ;  some  military  arrived  to  disperse  the  crowd  ; 
several  shots  were  fired  in  return  ;  and  at  length  a  Dr.  Gale  was  killed  by  a  shot 
from  the  office  door.  The  irritation  of  the  mob  was  increased.  They  planted  a 
cannon  against  the  house,  but  were  restrained  from  discharging  it  by  the  timely 
arrival  of  an  additional  military  force,  and  an  agreement  that  the  persons  in  the 
house  would  surrender  to  the  civil  authority.  Accordingly,  early  in  the  follow- 
ing morning,  having  received  assurances  on  which  they  thought  themselves  safe 
in  relying,  they  surrendered,  and  were  conducted  to  the  county  jail,  contiguous 
to  the  city.  The  party  consisted  of  about  20  persons  ;  amongst  whom  were  Gene- 
ral Lee,  General  James  Lingan,  and  Mr.  Hanson. 

The  Mayor  directed  the  Sheriff  to  use  every  precaution  to  secure  the  doors  of 
the  prison,  and  the  commander  of  the  troops  to  employ  a  competent  force  to  pre- 
serve the  peace.  In  the  evening  everything  bore  the  appearance  of  tranquillity  ; 
and  the  soldiers,  by  the  consent  of  the  magistrate,  were  dismissed.  But  shortly 
after  dark,  a  great  crowd  of  disorderly  persons  reassembled  about  the  jail,  and 
manifested  an  intention  to  force  it  open.  On  being  apprised  of  this,  the  Mayor 
hastened  to  the  spot,  and,  with  the  aid  of  a  few  other  gentlemen,  for  a  while  pre- 
vented the  execution  of  the  design  :  but  they  were  at  length  overpowered  by  the 
number  and  violence  of  the  assailants.  The  Mayor  was  carried  away  by  force, 
and  tlie  turnkey  compelled  to  open  the  doors.  A  tragedy  ensued,  which  cannot 
be  described  :  it  can  be  imagined  only  by  those  who  are  familiar  with  scenes  of 


528  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

blood.  General  Lingan  was  killed ;  eleven  were  beaten  and  mangled  with  weapons 
of  every  description,  such  as  stones,  bludgeons,  and  sledge-hammers,  and  then 
thrown  as  dead,  into  one  pile,  outside  of  the  door.  A  few  of  the  prisoners  fortu- 
nately escaped  through  the  crowd :  Mr.  Hanson,  fainting  from  his  repeated 
wounds,  was  carried  by  a  gentleman  (of  opposite  political  sentiments),  at  the 
hazard  of  his  own  life,  across  the  adjoining  river,  whence  he  with  difficulty 
reached  the  dwelling  of  a  friend. 

No  effectual  inquisition  was  ever  made  into  this  signal  violation  of  the  peace, 
nor  punishment  inflicted  on  the  guilty.  The  leaders,  on  both  sides,  underwent 
trials  ;  but,  owing  to  the  inflammation  of  public  feeling,  they  were  acquitted. 

ANECDOTE    OF    CHARLES    CARROLL. 

The  name  of  Carroll  is  the  only  one  on  the  Declaration  to  which  the  residence 
of  the  signer  is  appended.  The  reason  why  it  was  done  in  this  case  is  under- 
stood to  be  as  follows  :  The  patriots  who  signed  that  document,  did  it,  almost 
literally,  with  ropes  about  their  necks,  it  being  generally  supposed  that  they 
would,  if  unsuccessful,  be  hung  as  rebels.  When  Carroll  had  signed  his  name, 
some  one  at  his  elbow  remarked,  "  You'll  get  clear — there  are  several  of  that 
name — they  will  not  know  which  to  take." — "  Not  so,"  replied  he,  and  iminedi, 
ately  added,  "of  Carrollton." 


•DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA. 

Area, 60  Square  Miles 

Population  in  1360 75,080 

Population  in  1870, 131,706 

THE  District  of  Columbia  originally  embraced  an  area  of  ten  miles 
square,  but  the  portion  ceded  by  Virginia  was  restored  to  that  State 
in  1846,  so  that  the  present  District  comprises  only  the  grant  made 
to  the  General  Government  by  the  State  of  Maryland.  It  lies  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Potomac  at  the  head  of  tide  water,  160  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  It  includes  the  cities  of  Washington  and  George- 
town, and  is  the  seat  of  the  Federal  Government  of  the  Republic. 
In  its  physical  features  it  is  like  those  portions  of  the  State  of  Mary- 
land immediately  surrounding  it. 

Until  recently  it  was  governed  exclusively  by  Congress,  and  had 
no  voice  in  its  own  affairs.  Early  in  the  year  1871,  however,  the 
two  Houses  of  Congress  passed  a  bill,  which  received  the  signature 
of  the  President  on  the  21st  of  February,  making  great  changes  in 
the  affairs  of  the  District.  By  this  law  the  District  of  Columbia  has 
been  given  the  management  of  its  own  affairs.  The  District  is  organ- 
ized as  a  Territory,  with  a  Government,  consisting  of  a  Governor 
and  an  Assembly.  The  Governor  is  appointed  by  the  President  of 
the  United  States  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the 
Senate.  He  holds  office  for  four  years  and  until  his  successor  shall  be 
appointed  and  qualified.  He  must  be  a  citizen  of  the  District  for  at 
least  12  months  previous  to  his  appointment,  and  have  the  qualifica- 
tions of  a  voter.  His  duties  and  powers  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
Governor  of  a  Territory  of  the  United  States.  The  Assembly 
34  529 


530  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

consists  of  a  Council  and  a  House  of  Delegates.  The  Council  is 
composed  of  11  members,  of  whom  2  are  residents  of  the  City  of 
Georgetown,  2  residents  of  the  District  outside  of  Washington  and 
Georgetown,  and  7  residents  of  the  City  of  Washington.  They  are 
appointed  by  the  President,  by  and.  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the 
Senate.  They  must  have  the  qualifications  of  voters  to  be  eligible  to 
their  office.  They  hold  office  for  two  years,  five  and  six  going  out  on 
alternate  years.  The  House  of  Delegates  consists  of  22  members,  2 
from  each  of  the  11  districts  into  which  the  District  of  Columbia  is 
divided.  They  are  elected  by  the  people,  and  must  have  the  qualifi- 
cations prescribed  for  members  of  the  Council. 

The  right  of  suffrage  is  conferred  upon  all  male  citizens  of  the 
United  States  above  the  age  of  21  years,  who  have  resided  in  the  Dis- 
trict for  a  period  of  12  months  previous  to  an  election,  except  persons 
of  unsound  mind  and  those  convicted  of  infamous  crimes.  The 
Assembly  has  no  power  to  abridge  or  limit  the  right  of  suffrage. 

The  Government  must  confine  itself  entirely  to  the  affairs  of  the 
District  of  Columbia.  The  inhabitants  of  the  District  do  not  vote  for 
President  or  Vice-President  of  the  United  States.  They  send  one 
delegate  to  Congress,  who  is  entitled  to  the  same  rights  and  privileges 
in  that  body  as  are  exercised  and  enjoyed  by  the  Delegates  from  the 
several  Territories  of  the  United  States  to  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives. He  is  by  virtue  of  his  position  a  member  of  the  House  Com- 
mittee for  the  District  of  Columbia.  His  term  of  office  is  2  years. 

All  the  acts  of  the  Legislative  Assembly  are  subject  at  all  times  to 
repeal  or  modification  by  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  which 
body  retains  its  powers  of  legislation  over  the  District  as  formerly. 

By  this  law  the  charters  formerly  held  by  the  Cities  of  Washing- 
ton and  Georgetown  are  repealed,  and  all  offices  of  those  corporations 
abolished.  The  cities  are  brought  directly  under  the  control  of  the 
District  Government,  which  succeeds  to  the  possession  of  the  muni- 
cipal property.  The  cities  retaijj  their  names  and  boundaries,  but  no 
longer  exist  as  separate  corporations,  the  government  of  both  being 
confided  to  the  authorities  of  the  District. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  the  District  of  Columbia  is  the  highest 
judicial  tribunal.  It  consists  of  four  justices  (one  of  whom  is  desig- 
nated as  the  Chief  Justice),  appointed  by  the  President  and  confirmed 
by  the  Senate  of  the  United  States.  The  other  Courts  are  the  Dis- 
trict and  Criminal  Courts,  below  which  are  the  Justices  of  the  Peace- 


532  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

HISTORY. 

After  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  Congress  continued  to  meet  in 
the  City  of  Philadelphia.  In  June,  1783,  a  band  of  mutinous  soldiers 
broke  into  the  hall  where  Congress  was  in  session,  and  in  a  grossly 
insulting  manner  demanded  the  "  back  pay"  due  them,  which 
amounted  to  a  considerable  sum.  This  insult  was  felt  deeply  by  the 
members,  and  it  was  agreed  by  common  consent  that  it  would  be 
better  for  the  seat  of  Government  to  be  removed  to  a  part  of  the 
country  where  the  danger  of  a  repetition  of  the  occurrence  would  not 
be  so  imminent.  El  bridge  Gerry  introduced  a  resolution  authorizing 
the  building  of  a  Federal  City,  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware  or 
Potomac,  and  the  erection  of  buildings  suitable  for  the  use  of  Con- 
gress, provided  a  good  location  and  the  proper  amount  of  land  could 
be  obtained  on  either  of  those  rivers.  This  resolution  was  carried  on 
the  7th  of  October,  1783,  but  was  amended  by  a  provision  for  build- 
ings on  both  rivers,  and  was  repealed  on  the  26th  of  April,  1784. 
Congress  met  at  Trenton,  N.  J.,  in  October,  1 784,  and  appointed 
three  commissioners,  who  were  authorized  to- lay  out  a  district  between 
two  and  three  miles  square  on  the  Delaware,  for  a  Federal  City.  The 
next  January,  Congress  met  in  New  York,  and  efforts  were  made  to 
locate  the  district  on  the  Potomac,  but  without  success. 

In  September,  1787,  the  present  Constitution  of  the  United  States 
was  adopted,  which  provides  that  Congress  shall  have  power  "to 
exercise  exclusive  legislation,  in  all  cases  whatsoever,  over  such  dis- 
trict (not  exceeding  ten  miles  square)  as  may,  by  cession  of  particular 
States,  and  the  acceptance  of  Congress,  become  the  seat  of  Government 
of  the  United  States." 

This  clause  of  the  Constitution  fixed  definitely  the  size  of  the  new 
district,  and  was  the  first  real  step  towards  its  acquisition.  Appre- 
ciating the  advantage  of  having  the  Capital  within  its  limits,  the 
State  of  Maryland,  through  its  Legislature,  on  the  23d  of  December, 
1788,  offered  to  Congress  "any  district  (not  exceeding  ten  miles 
square)  which  the  Congress  may  fix  upon  and  accept  for  the  seat  of 
Government  of  the  United  States."  The  matter  was  debated  in  Con- 
gress in  1789. 

It  was  agreed  on  all  sides  that  the  district  ought  to  be  located  in  a 
section  of  the  country  easy  of  access  from  all  parts  of  the  Union,  and 
ought  to  be  as  central  as  was  consistent  with  the  wealth  and  popula- 
tion of  the  section  chosen.  The  North  and  the  South — for  the  sec- 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  533 

tional  division  of  the  country  had  been  made  even  at  that  early  day — 
each  desired  to  secure  the  location  of  the  new  city  within  its  own 
limits.  The  former  demanded  that  the  capital  should  be  built  on  the 
banks  of  the  Susquehanna,  and  the  latter  made  a  similar  demand  in 
favor  of  the  Delaware  or  Potomac.  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Ger- 
mantown, Havre  de  Grace,  Wright's  Ferry,  Baltimore,  and  Cono- 
cocheague  (now  Washington  City),  each  had  its  partisans.  The  con- 
troversy ran  very  high,  and  came  near  resulting  in  a  serious  quarrel 
between  the  States.  On  the  5th  of  September,  1789,  the  House  of 
Representatives  passed  a  resolution,  "That  the  permanent  seat  of 
Government  of  the  United  States  ought  io  be  at  some  convenient 
place  on  the  banks  of  the  Susquehanna,  in  the  State  of  Pennsylvania." 
This  resolution  gave  great  oifence  to  the  Southern  members,  and  even 
Mr.  Madison  went  so  far  as  to  declare  that  had  such  an  action  on  the 
part  of  Congress  been  foreseen,  Virginia  would  not  have  ratified  the 
Constitution.  The  matter  was  made  worse  by  the  immediate  passage 
of  a  bill  by  the  House  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  the  resolution  into 
effect.  The  vote  stood,  31  to  10.  The  Senate  amended  the, bill 
by  inserting  Germantown,  Pennsylvania,  instead  of  the  location 
on  the  Susquehanna,  which  amendment  was  accepted  by  the  House. 
The  House  further  amended  the  Act  by  providing  that  the  laws  of 
Pennsylvania  should  continue  in  force  in  the  new  district  until  Con- 
gress should  order  otherwise.  The  Senate  decided  to  postpone  the 
consideration  of  this  amendment  until  the  next  session,  and  the  matter 
went  over.  Germantown  was  thus  actually  chosen  as  the  Federal 
City,  and  it  needed  only  the  consent  of  the  Senate  to  the  last-men- 
tioned amendment  to  make  the  transaction  complete. 

Thus  far  none  of  the  States  but  Maryland  had  taken  any  official 
action  in  this  matter.  The  South  was  greatly  excited  over  the  course 
of  Congress,  all  of  the  Northern  States  were  not  pleased,  and  the 
matter  was  felt  to  be  a  very  serious  danger  to  the  harmony  of  the  new 
Confederation.  On  the  3d  of  December,  1789,  the  General  Assembly 
of  Virginia  passed  an  Act  ceding  a  district  to  Congress  on  the  banks 
of  the  Potomac.  The  cooperation  of  Maryland  was  asked  in  inducing 
Congress  to  accept  the  offer,  and  a  sum  not  exceeding  $120,000  was 
pledged  for  the  erection  of  public  buildings,  if  Maryland,  on  her  part, 
would  contribute  a  sum  not  less  than  two-fifths  of  that  amount  for 
the  same  purpose.  Maryland  at  once  agreed  to  the  request  of  Vir- 
ginia, and  pledged  herself  for  the  money.  Other  States  now  made 
offers  of  territory  to  Congress,  but  no  immediate  action  upon  the  sub- 
ject was  taken  by  that  body. 


534  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  great  question  which  at  that  time  occupied  the  attention  of  the 
people,  was  the  funding  of  the  public  debt.  Congress  was  divided 
upon  the  subject.  An  amendment  had  been  presented  to  the  House, 
and  had  been  rejected,  providing  that  the  General  Government  should 
assume  the  State  debts  to  the  amount  of  $21,000,000.  This  question 
had  become  very  closely  interwoven  with  that  of  selecting  a  Federal 
district.  The  Northern  members  were  in  favor  of  the  assumption, 
but  did  not  desire  the  location  of  the  district  in  the  South ;  and  the 
Southern  members,  while  divided  upon  the  assumption  question,  were 
to  a  man  in  favor  of  having  the  offers  of  Maryland  and  Virginia 
accepted.  Matters  were  *at  a  dead  halt,  and  the  future  seemed 
ominous. 

Jefferson  was  at  this  time  Secretary  of  State,  and  Hamilton  Secre- 
tary of  the  Treasury.  Both  were  anxious  to  avert  the  danger  which 
the  vexed  questions  threatened,  and  after  discussing  the  matter  confi- 
dentially, came  to  the  conclusion  that  a  compromise  was  necessary. 
Hamilton  urged  that  the  South  should  consent  to  the  assumption  of 
the  State  debts  by  the  Government,  and  declared  that  he  felt  sure  if 
they  would  do  this,  the  North  would  agree  to  locate  the  capital  on 
the  Potomac.  It  was  decided  that  Jefferson  should  ask  the  members 
whose  votes  would  accomplish  this,  to  dine  with  him  the  next  day, 
and  lay  the  matter  before  them.  The  dinner  was  given,  the  plan 
proposed  by  Hamilton  discussed,  and  a  sufficient  number  of  votes 
pledged  for  the  assumption  bill.  Hamilton  undertook  to  win  over 
the  Northern  members  to  the  capital  scheme,  and  succeeded.  The 
assumption  bill  became  a  law,  and  Congress  definitely  accepted  the 
offers  of  Maryland  and  Virginia. 

On  the  3d  of  March,  1791,  Congress  amended  the  original  Act  so 
as  to  include  the  city  of  Alexandria  in  the  district,  and  the  following 
proclamation  was  issued  by  President  Washington,  establishing  the 
new  district : 

"Whereas,  By  a  proclamation,  bearing  date  the  14th  of  January 
of  this  present  year,  and  in  pursuance  of  certain  Acts  of  the  States  of 
Maryland  and  Virginia,  and  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States, 
therein  mentioned,  certain  lines  of  experiment  were  directed  to  be  run 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Georgetown,  in  Maryland,  for  the  purpose  of 
determining  the  location  of  a  part  of  the  territory  of  ten  miles  square, 
for  the  permanent  seat  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States;  and 
a  certain  part  was  directed  to  be  located  within  the  said  lines  of  ex- 
periment, on  both  sides  of  the  Potomac,  and  above  the  limits  of  the 
Eastern  Branch,  prescribed  by  the  said  Act  of  Congress ; 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  535 

"And  Congress,  by  an  amendatory  Act,  passed  on  the  3d  day  of  this 
present  month  of  March,  have  given  further  authority  to  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States  to  make  any  part  of  the  said  territory,  be- 
low the  said  limit,  and  above  the  mouth  of  Hunting  Creek,  a  part  of 
the  said  District,  so  as  to  include  a  convenient  part  of  the  Eastern 
Branch  of  the  lands  lying  on  the  lower  side  thereof,  and  also  the  town 
of  Alexandria ; 

"  Now,  therefore,  for  the  purpose  of  amending  and  completing  the 
location  of  the  whole  of  the  said  territory  of  ten  miles  square,  in  con- 
formity with  the  said  amendatory  Act  of  Congress,  I  do  hereby 
declare  and  make  known  that  the  whole  of  the  said  territory  shall 
be  located  and  included  within  the  four  lines  following,  that  is  to  say : 

"Beginning  at  Jones'  Point,  being  the  upper  cape  of  Hunting 
Creek,  in  Virginia,  and  at  an  angle  in  the  outset  of  45°  west  of 
north,  and  running  in  a  direct  line  ten  miles,  for  the  first  line;  then 
beginning  again  at  the  same  Jones'  Point,  and  running  another  direct 
line  at  a  right  angle  with  the  first,  across  the  Potomac,  ten  miles,  for 
the  second  line ;  then,  from  the  terminations  of  the  said  first  and  sec- 
ond lines,  running  two  other  direct  lines,  of  ten  miles  each,  the  one 
crossing  the  Eastern  Branch  aforesaid,  and  the  other  the  Potomac,  and 
meeting  each  other  in  a  point. 

"And  I  do  accordingly  direct  the  Commissioners  named  under  the 
authority  of  the  said  first-mentioned  Act  of  Congress  to  proceed  forth- 
with to  have  the  said  four  lines  run,  and  by  proper  metes  and  bounds 
defined  and  limited,  and  thereof  to  make  due  report  under  their  hands 
and  seals ;  and  the  territory  so  to  be  located,  defined,  and  limited, 
shall  be  the  whole  territory  accepted  by  the  said  Act  of  Congress  as 
the  District  for  the  permanent  seat  of  the  Government  of  the  United 
States. 

"In  testimony  whereof,  I  have  caused  the  seal  of  the  United  States 
to  be  affixed  to  these  presents,  and  signed  the  same  with  my  hand. 
Done  at  Georgetown  aforesaid,  the  30th  day  of  March,  in  the  year 
of  our  Lord,  1791,  and  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States,  the 
fifteenth.  GEORGE  WASHINGTON." 

The  District  was  laid  out  by  three  Commissioners,  appointed  by 
the  President,  in  accordance  with  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  January, 
1791.  These  Commissioners  were  Thomas  Johnson,  David  Stuart, 
and  Daniel  Carroll.  On  the  15th  of  April,  in  the  same  year,  they 
superintended  the  laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  the  District,  at  Jones' 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  537 

Point,  near  Alexandria.  This  act  was  performed  with  the  ceremonies 
prescribed  by  the  Masonic  ritual.  The  District  was  named  Columbia, 
in  honor  of  the  great  discoverer  of  the  continent. 

Having  thus  acquired  a  Federal  District,  and  having  definitely  lo- 
cated its  boundaries,  the  next  step  was  to  lay  off  the  new  city  which 
was  to  be  the  capital  of  the  nation.  This  task  was  confided  to  Major 
L/Enfant,  a  distinguished  engineer,  who  was  informed  by  the  Com- 
missioners that  the  new  city  would  bear  the  name  of  "Washington.77 

In  February,  1871,  the  Government  of  the  District  was  reorganized, 
as  has  been  already  described. 

The  cities  of  the  District  are  Washington  and  Georgetown. 

WASHINGTON    CITY, 

The  capital  of  the  United  States,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Potomac  River,  between  that  stream  and  a  tributary  called  the  East 
Branch,  a  few  miles  below  the  head  of  tide  water.  It  is  295  miles 
from  the  ocean,  226  miles  southwest  of  New  York,  432  miles  south- 
west of  Boston,  544  miles  northeast  of  Charleston,  1203  miles  north- 
east of  New  Orleans,  497  miles  east  of  Cincinnati,  763  miles  southeast 
of  Chicago,  1200  miles  northeast  of  St.  Louis,  and  2000  miles  in  an 
air  line  northeast  of  San  Francisco.  The  Capitol,  which  is  nearly 
the  centre  of  the  city,  is  located  in  38°  52'  20"  N.  latitude,  and  77° 
Of  15"  W.  longitude  from  Greenwich.  The  city  has  connections  by 
railroad  and  steamboat  with  all  parts  of  the  continent,  and  telegraphic 
lines  extend  from  it  all  over  the  world.  The  Potomac  is  navigable 
for  ships  of  the  largest  size  as  far  as  Greenleaf's  Point,  the  site  of  the 
Arsenal  and  Penitentiary.  The  British  fleet  anchored  here  in  1814, 
and  the  frigate  Minnesota  was  launched  at  the  Navy  Yard  some  years 
ago,  and  carried  down  the  stream  after  being  equipped.  The  situa- 
tion of  the  city  is  advantageous  in  many  respects.  Its  front  is  washed 
by  the  Potomac,  on  the  east  is  the  East  Branch,  and  on  the  left  a 
stream  called  Rock  Creek,  which  separates  it  from  Georgetown. 
"  The  general  altitude  of  the  city  plot  is  40  feet  above  the  river,  but 
this  is  diversified  by  irregular  elevations,  which  serve  to  give  variety 
and  commanding  sites  for  public  buildings.  The  plot  is  slightly 
amphitheatrical,  the  President's  House,  on  the  west,  standing  on  one 
of  the  sides,  and  the  Capitol  on  the  other,  while  the  space  between 
verges  towards  a  point  near  the  river.  The  President's  House  and  the 
Capitol  stand  centrally  with  regard  to  the  whole,  though  situated  at 
the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  each  other,  the  former  44  feet 


538  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

above  the  Potomac,  and  the  latter  72  feet.  The  summit  of  the  hill 
011  which  the  Capitol  stands  is  the  commencement  of  a  plain  stretch- 
ing east,  while  that  to  the  north  of  the  President's  House  tends 
westward." 

Washington  is  laid  off  in  a  peculiar  manner.  According  to  the 
original  plan,  the  Capitol  was  designed  to  be  the  centre  of  the  city, 
and  the  starting  point  of  the  whole  system  of  streets.  This  plan  has 
been  adhered  to  in  the  main,  though  it  has  been  altered  in  some  re- 
spects. The  streets  running  east  and  west  are  designated  by  letters. 
They  are  divided  into  two  classes  or  sets — those  north  of  the  Capi- 
tol, and  those  south  of  it.  Thus,  the  first  street  north  of  the  Capitol 
is  A  Street  North,  and  the  first  street  south  of  it,  A  Street  South ;  the 
-  next  is  B  Street,  North  or  South,  and  so  on.  The  streets  running  north 
and  south  are  numbered.  Thus,  the  street  immediately  east  of  the 
Capitol  is  First  Street  East,  and  that  immediately  west  of  it,  First 
Street  West,  and  so  on.  These  distinctions  of  North,  South,  East, 
and  West  are  most  important,  as  forgetfulness  of  them  is  apt  to  lead 
to  very  great  blunders.  The  streets  are  laid  off  at  regular  distances 
from  each  other,  but  for  convenience,  other  thoroughfares,  not  laid  down 
in  the  original  plan,  have  been  cut  through  some  of  the  blocks.  These 
are  called  "  Half  streets,"  as  they  occur  between  and  are  parallel  with 
the  numbered  streets.  Thus,  Four-and-a-half  Street  is  between 
Fourth  and  Fifth  streets,  and  runs  parallel  with  them.  The  avenues 
run  diagonally  across  the  city,  cutting  the  streets  at  right-angles. 
New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  and  Delaware  avenues  intersect 
at  the  Capitol,  and  Pennsylvania,  New  York,  Vermont,  and  Connec- 
ticut avenues  intersect  at  the  President's  house.  Pennsylvania  Ave- 
nue is  the  main  thoroughfare.  It  is  160  feet  wide,  and  runs  the  entire 
length  of  the  city,  from  the  Eastern  Branch  to  Rock  Creek, — which 
latter  stream  separates  Washington  from  Georgetown.  It  was  origi- 
nally a  swampy  thicket.  The  bushes  were  cut  away  to  the  desired 
width  soon  after  the  city  was  laid  off,  but  few  persons  cared  to  settle 
in  the  swamp.  Through  the  exertions  of  President  Jefferson,  it  was 
planted  with  four  rows  of  fine  Lombardy  poplars, — one  on  each  side 
and  two  in  the  middle, — with  the  hope  of  making  it  equal  to  the 
famous  Unter  den  Linden,  in  Berlin.  The  poplars  did  not  grow  as 
well  as  was  hoped,  however,  and,  when  the  avenue  was  graded  and 
paved  by  order  of  Congress,  in  1832  and  1833,  were  removed.  The 
street  is  now  well  paved  and  lighted.  It  is  handsomely  built  up, 
and  contains  some  buildings  which  would  do  credit  to  any  city.  The 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  539 

view  from  either  the  Capitol  or  the  President's  House  along  the  ave- 
nue is  very  fine. 

There  are  1170  blocks  or  squares,  bounded  by  22  avenues  ranging 
from  130  to  160  feet  in  width,  named,  as  far  as  they  go,  after  the 
different  States ;  and  100  streets,  from  70  to  100  feet  wide.  The  cir- 
cumference of  the  city  is  14  miles.  There  are  199  miles  of  streets, 
and  65  miles  of  avenues.  The  paving  and  grading  of  the  streets  has 
been  done  almost  entirely  by  the  city.  The  Government  claims  every 
privilege  accorded  to  it  by  the  original  design,  but  steadily  refuses  to 
carry  out  the  part  assigned  it  by  that  same  plan. 

Were  it  not  for  the  Public  Buildings  which  it  contains,  Washing- 
ton would  be  a  most  uninteresting  city ;  but  these  have  made  it  one 
of  the  principal  attractions  of  the  country.  With  the  single  exception 
of  the  City  Hall  and  the  Smithsonian  Institute,  these  buildings  are 
owned  and  used  by  the  Federal  Government  of  the  United  States. 

The-  Capitol  is  the  grandest  and  most  majestic  edifice  in  the  New 
World,  and  one  of  the  finest  on  the  globe.  It  stands  on  the  western 
brow  of  a  commanding  hill,  and  overlooks  the  city  and  the  surrounding 
country.  The  site  was  chosen  by  Washington,  who  was  greatly  im- 
pressed with  its  advantages.  The  corner-stone  of  the  original  build- 
ing was  laid  by  Washington,  on  the  18th  of  September,  1793.  This 
edifice  was  finished  in  1811,  and  was  burned  by  the  British  army,  in 
1814.  Its  reconstruction  was  begun  immediately  after  the  close  of 
the  war,  and  the  building  was  completed  according  to  the  original 
design  in  1825.  In  1851,  work  was  begun  on  the  Capitol  for  the 
purpose  of  enlarging  and  beautifying  it.  The  principal  additions  con- 
sist of  a  massive  dome  over  the  central  building,  and  a  wing  at  the 
northern  and  southern  extremities  of  the  old  structure.  The  building 
is  not  quite  finished  at  present,  but  will  require  only  a  few  years  to 
complete  it. 

The  extension  consists  of  two  wings,  each  of  which  has  a  front  of 
142  feet  8  inches,  and  a  depth  of  238  feet  10  inches,  not  including  the 
porticoes  and  steps.  The  porticoes  front  the  east,  and  have  each  22 
monolithic  fluted  columns.  They  "  extend  the  entire  width  of  the 
front,  having  central  projections  of  10  feet  4  inches,  forming  double 
porticoes  in  the  centre,  the  width  of  the  gable.  There  is  also  a  por- 
tico of  10  columns  on  the  west  end  of  each  wing,  105  feet  8  inches 
wide,  projecting  10  feet  6  inches,  and  like  porticoes  on  the  north  side 
of  the  north  wing  and  south  side  of  the  south  wing,  with  a  width  of 
121  feet  4  inches.  The  centre  building  is  352  feet  4  inches  long  and 
121  feet  6  inches  deep,  with  a  portico  160  feet  wide,  of  24  columns, 


540  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

with  a  double  fagade  on  the  east,  and  a  projection  of  83  feet  on  the 
west,  embracing  a  recessed  portico  of  10  coupled  columns.  The  en- 
tire length  of  the  Capitol  is  751  feet  4  inches,  and  the  greatest  depth, 
including  porticoes  and  steps,  is  324  feet.  The  ground  actually  cov- 
ered by  the  building,  exclusive  of  the  court-yards,  is  153,112  square 
feet,  or  652  feet  over  3  J  acres.  "  The  material  of  which  the  extension 
is  built,  is  a  white  marble  slightly  variegated  with  blue,  and  was  pro- 
cured from  a  quarry  in  Lee,  Massachusetts.  The  columns  are  all  of 
white  marble  obtained  from  Maryland.  The  principal  story  of  the 
Capitol  rests  upon  a  rustic  basement,  which  supports  an  ordon nance 
of  pilasters  rising  to  the  height  of  the  two  stories  above.  Upon  these 
pilasters  rests  the  entablature  and  beautiful  frieze,  and  the  whole  is 
surmounted  by  a  marble  balustrade.  The  main  entrances  are  by  the 
three  eastern  porticoes,  being  made  easy  of  access  by  broad  flights  of 
stone  steps  with  massive  cheek-blocks,  and  vaulted  carriage-ways  be- 
neath to  the  basement  entrances." 

The  building  faces  the  east,  and  the  rear  is  in  the  direction  of  the 
principal  part  of  the  city.  This  location  was  made  under  the  impres- 
sion that  the  neighborhood  of  the  Capitol  would  be  first  settled  in  the 
growth  of  the  new  city;  but  the  designs  of  the  projectors  not  having 
been  realized,  the  building  now  faces  the  wrong  way. 

Standing  in  front  of  the  edifice,  and  at  a  distance  sufficient  to  take 
in  the  whole  view,  the  effect  is  indescribably  grand.  The  pure  white 
marble  glitters  and  shines  in  the  sunlight,  and  the  huge  structure 
towers  above  one  like  one  of  the  famed  palaces  of  old  romance.  The 
broad  nights  of  steps  of  the  wings  and  central  buildings  have  an  air  of 
elegance  and  lightness  which  is  surprising  when  their  massive  character 
is  considered.  The  pediments  of  the  porticoes  will  contain  magnificent 
groups  of  sculpture.  The  central  pediment  is  decorated  with  a  group 
sculptured  in  alto-relievo.  The  Genius  of  America,  crowned  with  a 
star,  holds  in  her  right  hand  a  shield  bearing  the  letters  U.  S.  A., 
•  surrounded  with  a  glory.  The  shield  rests  on  an  altar  inscribed  with 
the  date,  "July  4,  1776,"  encircled  with  a  laurel  wreath.  A  spear 
is  behind  her  within  reach,  and  the  eagle  crouches  at  her  feet.  She  is 
gazing  at  Hope,  who  stands  on  her  left,  and  is  directing  her  attention 
to  Justice,  on  her  right,  who  holds  in  her  right  hand  a  scroll  inscribed, 
"Constitution  of  the  United  States,"  and  in  her  left  the  scales.  The 
group  is  said  to  have  been  designed  by  John  Quincy  Adams,  and  was 
executed  by  Signer  Persico.  The  northern  pediment  contains  Craw- 
ford's famous  group,  representing  the  progress  of  civilization  in  the 
United  States.  America  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  tympanum,  in 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  541 

the  full  light  of  the  rising  sun.  On  her  right  hand  are  War,  Com- 
merce, Youth  and  Education,  and  Agriculture ;  on  her  left  the  pio- 
neer backwoodsman,  the  hunter,  the  Indian  and  his  squaw  with  an 
infant  in  her  arms,  sitting  by  a  filled  grave.  The  southern  pediment 
has  not  yet  been  filled.  It  is  said  that  the  design  adopted  for  it  is  by 
William  R.  Barbee,  and  represents  the  discovery  of  the  country  by 
Columbus.  The  cheek-blocks  of  the  steps  to  the  central  portico  are 
ornamented  by  two  fine  groups  of  statuary.  The  group  on  the  right 
of  the  steps  represents  the  discovery  of  America,  and  is  by  Persico. 
Columbus,  landing  in  the  New  World,  holds  aloft  in  his  right  hand 
a  globe,  symbolic  of  his  discovery.  He  is  clad  in  armor,  which  is 
said  to  be  a  faithful  copy  of  a  suit  worn  by  him.  An  Indian  maiden 
crouches  beneath  his  uplifted  arm,  her  face  expressive  of  the  surprise 
and  terror  of  her  race  at  the  appearance  of  the  whites.  The  group 
on  the  left  is  called  "  Civilization"  and  is  by  Greenough.  A  terror- 
stricken  mother,  clasping  her  babe  to  her  breast,  crouches  at  the  feet 
of  a  stalwart  Indian  warrior,  whose  arms,  raised  in  the  act  of  striking 
her  with  his  tomahawk,  are  seized  and  pinioned  by  the  husband  and 
father,  who  returns  at  the  fortunate  moment,  accompanied  by  his 
faithful  dog,  which  stands  by  ready  to  spring  to  the  aid  of  his  master. 
The  entire  cost  of  the  Capitol  and  its  improvements,  when  completed, 
will  be  over  $12,000,000. 

The  interior  of  the  Capitol  is  in  keeping  with  the  exterior.  The 
Rotunda,  which  is  the  central  portion  of  the  old  building,  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  grand  dome,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  beautifully  frescoed 
with  allegorical  designs.  The  walls  are  adorned  with  paintings  and 
statuary,  illustrating  the  history  of  the  country.  The  effect  of  the 
whole  is  very  beautiful. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  central  building,  opposite  the  main  entrance, 
is  the  Library  of  Congress,  a  magnificent  hall,  filled  with  a  collection 
of  nearly  200,000  volumes.  The  copyright  laws  require  a  copy  of 
each  and  every  copyrighted  bool£  published  in  the  United  States  to  be 
deposited  in  this  library.  The  library  is  free  to  the  public  for  use 
within  the  hall,  but  only  Members  of  Congress  and  certain  other  per- 
sons are  privileged  to  take  the  books  from  the  hall. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Rotunda  is  the  portion  of  the  building 
used  by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  its  officers,  and  its 
library,  numbering  between  25,000  and  30,000  volumes.  A  hand- 
some corridor  leads  from  this  portion  to  the  new  North  Wing,  used 
by  the  Senate  of  the  United  States  and  its  Committees.  The  base* 


542  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ment  of  this  wing  is  exquisitely  frescoed  with  illustrations  belonging 
to  the  natural  history  of  North  America,  the  designs  being  painted 
from  life.  The  Committee  rooms  in  this  wing  are  handsome  apart- 
ments, elegantly  fitted  up.  The  corridors  are  beautiful,  and  are  mostly 
of  marble,  with  floors  of  encaustic  tiles. 

Two  handsome  marble  stairways  lead  from  the  basement  to  the 
second,  or  main  floor.  They  are  situated  in  the  southeastern  and 
southwestern  ends  of  the  wing.  They  are  continued,  on  a  much  more 
magnificent  scale,  from  the  second  floor  to  the  galleries  and  rooms 
of  the  third  floor.  This  portion  of  the  two  wings  is  on  a  level  with 
the  floor  of  the  Rotunda,  and  contains  the  principal  apartments  of 
the  Capitol.  The  main  entrances  are  by  the  magnificent  North  and 
South  Porticoes,  which  are  now  ornamented  with  the  superb  bronze 
doors  designed  for  them.  The  doors  of  the  Senate  portico  illustrate 
the  'events  of  the  life  of  Washington. 

The  retiring  rooms  of  the  Senate,  and  the  rooms  used  by  the  Presi- 
dent and  V ice-President  of  the  United  States  are  gorgeous  apartments. 
The  President's  room  is  adorned  with  fresco  portraits  of  Washington's 
first  Cabinet.  Lying  between  the  President's  and  Vice-President's 
rooms  is  a  suite  of  sumptuous  apartments — the  most  magnificent  in 
the  building — known  as  the  Marble  Room.  The  total  length  of  the 
three  rooms  is  about  85  feet,  the  width  21 J  feet,  and  the  height  19 J 
feet.  The  floor  is  an  exquisite  piece  of  mosaic  in  marble,  and  the  ceil- 
ing is  in  panels  of  slightly  colored  Italian  marble,  and  rests  upon  a 
series  of  magnificent  white  Italian  marble  pillars  with  elaborate  capi- 
tals. The  walls  are  adorned  with  large  and  superb  mirrors,  and  are 
veneered  with  the  finest  specimens  of  Tennessee  marble  in  the  country. 
The  windows  are  richly  curtained,  the  furniture  is  exquisite,  and  the 
apartment  is  lighted  by  a  large  brass  chandelier.  The  suite  is  used 
by  the  Senators  as  a  retiring  and  private  reception  room.  The  prin- 
cipal apartment  in  this  wing  is  the  Senate  Chamber,  a  magnificent 
hall,  112  feet  in  length,  82  feet  wide,  and  30  feet  high.  The  ceiling 
is  constructed  entirely  of  cast  iron,  deeply  panelled,  with  stained 
glass  skylights,  and  ornamented  with  foliage,  pendants,  and  drops, 
of  the  richest  and  most  elaborate  description.  The  walls  and  ceiling 
are  painted  with  strong,  brilliant  colors,  and  all  the  iron  work  is 
bronzed  and  gilded.  A  cushioned  gallery  extends  entirely  around 
the  hall.  That  portion  immediately  over  the  chair  of  the  Vice- 
President  of  the  United  States  is  assigned  to  the  reporters  of  the  press, 
and  a  section  enclosed  by  handsome  iron  railings,  and  i  mined  lately 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  543 

facing  the  Chair,  is  for  the  use  of  the  members  of  the  Diplomatic 
Corps.  The  rest  of  the  gallery  is  divided  into  sections  for  ladies  and 
gentlemen.  A  fine  view  of  the  hall  can  be  obtained  from  any  part  of 
it.  The  space  under  the  gallery  is  enclosed,  and  used  as  cloak-rooms, 
etc.  The  gallery  will  seat  one  thousand  persons. 

Immediately  opposite  the  main  door  of  the  Chamber  is  the  chair  of 
the  Vice-President  of  the  United  States,  who  presides  over  the  Senate. 
It  is  placed  on  a  platform  of  pure  white  marble,  and  behind  a  desk 
of  the  same  material.  Just  below  this  is  a  similar  but  larger  desk, 
used  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Senate  and  his  assistants,  and  at  the  foot 
of  this  table  are  the  chairs  of  the  short-hand  reporters  of  the  debates. 

The  floor  rises  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre  from  the  space  in 
front  of  the  Secretary's  desk  to  the  rear.  Along  these  rows  of  steps, 
the  registers  are  built  in  the  floor,  and  keep  the  temperature  of  the 
Chamber  at  a  fixed  heat.  The  desks  of  the  Senators  are  of  oak,  of  a 
handsome  and  convenient  pattern,  and  are  arranged  in  three  semi- 
circular rows  facing  the  Chair.  A  comfortable  armchair  is  provided 
for  each  desk  ;  and  sofas  and  chairs  for  the  convenience  of  Senators 
and  those  entitled  to  the.  privileges  of  the  floor,  are  arranged  around 
the  sides  of  the  hall.  The  choice  of  seats  is  determined  by  drawing 
lots. 

During  the  day  the  glass  ceiling  allows  a  soft  and  pleasant  light  to 
pass  into  the  chamber,  and  at  night  the  gas  jets,  which  are  arranged 
above  the  skylights,  shed  through  the  beautiful  hall  a  radiance  which 
can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  the  light  of  the  sun. 

In  the  South  Wing  of  the  old  building,  and  opening  upon  the 
Rotunda,  is  the  old  Hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  apartments  in  the  Capitol.  In  accordance  with  the 
popular  wish  this  hall  is  preserved  in  its  original  state,  and  is  now 
used  as  a  gallery  of  Statuary.  A  fine  corridor,  ornamented  with  a  pair 
of  bronze  doors,  leads  to  the  new  South  Wing,  now  used  by  the  House 
of  Representatives  and  its  officers.  These  doors  are  the  work  of  Ran- 
dolph Rogers,  an  American  artist,  and  are  said  to  be  the  finest  works 
of  their  kind  in  the  world.  They  illustrate  the  principal  scenes  in 
the  life  of  Columbus. 

The  basement  of  the  South  Wing  contains  the  Committee  rooms 
of  the  House  of  Representatives.  These  are  equal  in  magnificence  to 
those  of  the  Senate.  The  corridors  are  not  as  handsome  as  those  of 
the  North  Wing,  but  are  still  very  beautiful.  The  first  floor  is 
reached  by  an  elegant  stairway  of  marble  at  each  end  of  the  wing 


544  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

These  stairways  are  continued  to  the  second  floor  on  a  more  magnifi- 
cent scale,  and  are  ornamented  with  fine  paintings  by  Leutze  and 
other  artists.  The  corridors  contain  several  statues  of  the  great  men 
of  America.  The  Speaker's  Room,  used  by  the  .presiding  officer  of 
the  House  of  Representatives,  is  a  beautiful  apartment,  and  is  orna- 
mented with  portraits  of  nearly  every  Speaker  since  the  organization 
of  the  Government. 

The  Hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives  occupies  the  central  por- 
tion of  the  wing.  It  is  139  feet  long,  93  feet  wide,  and  36  feet  high. 
It  is  of  sufficient  size  to  afford  comfortable  accommodations  for  the 
increased  number  of  members  a  century  hence.  It  has  an  area  of 
12,927  square  feet.  The  galleries  extend  entirely  around  it,  and  will 
seat  1200  persons.  The  seats  are  cushioned,  and  present  a  handsome 
appearance.  That  portion  opposite  the  Speaker's  chair  is  ornamented 
with  a  magnificent  bronze  clock.  Immediately  over  the  Speaker's 
chair  is  the  Reporters'  Gallery,  which  is  for  the  exclusive  use  of  the 
Press.  It  is  furnished  with  handsome  private  desks,  one  of  which  is 
assigned  to  the  accredited  reporter  for  some  particular  journal  for  the 
entire  session.  Some  25  or  30  of  the  leading  newspapers  of  the 
land  are  represented  here.  The  rest  of  the  gallery  is  divided  into 
sections  for  the  members  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps,  for  ladies,  and  for 
gentlemen  unaccompanied  by  ladies.  These  are  separated  from  each 
other  by  iron  railings.  The  ceiling  is  of  cast  iron,  and  is  similar  to 
that  of  the  Senate  Chamber,  but  handsomer.  In  the  centre  is  a  large 
skylight  containing  a  number  of  panels  ornamented  with  the  coats  of 
arms  of  the  various  States  and  Territories  of  the  Union.  The  hall  is 
lighted  by  means  of  this  skylight.  "An  arrangement  of  movable 
metallic  plates,  on  the  principle  of  Venetian  blinds,  is  placed  under 
the  sunny  side  of  the  respective  roofs  of  the  House  and  Senate,  so  that 
the  same  amount  of  light  may  be  admitted  all  the  time."  The  ar- 
rangement of  the  gas  lights  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Senate  Chamber. 
Fifteen  hundred  burners  are  placed  over  the  glass  of  the  ceiling,  at  a 
distance  of  an  inch  apart.  Over  each  one  of  these  passes  an  incom- 
bustible wire.  The  gas  is  turned  on,  an  electric  current  flashes  along 
the  wire,  and  in  an  instant  the  hall  is  filled  with  a  soft,  pleasing  light, 
which  resembles  that  of  the  sun.  Opposite  the  principal  door,  are 
three  desks  of  pure  white  marble,  ranged  one  above  the  other.  The 
highest  is  occupied  by  the  Speaker  of  the  House,  the  next  by  the 
Clerk  of  the  House  and  his  assistants,  and  the  lowest  by  the  official 
reporters  of  the  debates.  The  registers  for  warming  the  hall  are  built 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  545 

in  the  sides  of  the  different  steps  into  which  the  floor  is  divided,  and 
openings  in  the  wall  permit  the  heated  air  to  pass  off.  The  engines 
which  work  the  heating  and  ventilating  apparatus  are  situated  in  the 
basement,  and  are  of  such  power  that  the  air  of  the  entire  hall  is  re- 
newed every  five  minutes.  The  ceiling  is  magnificently  painted,  and 
the  walls  below  the  galleries  are  laid  off  in  large  panels,  which  are  to 
be  ornamented  with  paintings  in  fresco  illustrative  of  the  principal 
events  in  the  history  of  the  country.  One  of  these  panels  has  already 
been  filled  with  a  magnificent  fresco,  by  Brumidi,  illustrating  an 
event  which  occurred  at  the  Siege  of  Yorktown.  On  the  right  and 
left  of  the  Speaker's  chair  are  full-length  portraits  of  Washington  and 
Lafayette.  The  portrait  of  Washington  was  painted  by  Yanderlyn, 
by  order  of  Congress,  and  that  of  Lafayette  was  presented  to  Congress 
by  the  great  Frenchman  himself,  on  the  occasion  of  his  visit  to  the 
United  States,  in  1825.  Both  pictures  were  among  the  ornaments  of 
the  old  Hall  of  Representatives.  The  floor  rises  from  south  to  north, 
like  an  amphitheatre.  The  seats  and  desks  of  the  members  (which 
are  similar  to  those  of  the  Senators)  are  arranged  along  this  amphi- 
theatre, in  successive  circles,  facing  the  Speaker.  There  are  at  present 
236  of  these  desks  and  seats  in  use.  The  desks  and  chairs  are  all  of 
a  handsome  pattern,  and  make  a  very  showy  appearance.  Seats  are 
chosen  by  lot  at  the  beginning  of  every  session.  The  desk  of  the 
Sergeant-at-Arms  is  on  the  Speaker's  right,  that  of  the  Door-keeper 
on  his  left.  The  space  under  the  galleries  is  enclosed  and  occupied 
by  two  cloak  rooms  for  Members,  a  Barber  Shop  for  Members,  a  Fold- 
ing Room,  and  Document  Room. 

The  Capitol  grounds  cover  an  area  of  several  acres,  and  are  hand- 
somely ornamented  with  statuary,  fountains,  shrubbery,  etc.  The 
dome  of  the  Capitol  is  surmounted  by  Crawford's  statue  of  Freedom, 
a  magnificent  work  of  bronze.  It  is  placed  at  an  altitude  of  300  feet 
from  the  ground.  From  the  gallery  below  the  base  of  the  statue 
magnificent  views  of  the  city,  the  Potomac,  and  the  surrounding 
country  may  be  had. 

The  Executive  Mansion,  or,  as  it  is  more  commonly  called,  the 
White  House,  is  the  official  residence  of  the  President  of  the  United 
States.  It  is  situated  on  Pennsylvania  avenue,  near  the  western  end 
of  the  city,  and  is  surrounded  by  the  Treasury,  State,  AYar,  and  Navy 
Departments.  The  grounds  in  front  are  handsomely  ornamented, 
and  in  the  rear  a  fine  park  stretches  away  to  the  river.  The  location 
is  attractive,  and  commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Potomac,  but  it 
35 


54G 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC1, 


UNITED   STATES  TREASURY. 


is  not  healthy.  Ague  and  fever  prevail  in  the  spring  and  fall,  and 
render  it  anything  but  a  desirable  place  of  residence.  The  building 
is  constructed  of  freestone,  painted  white— hence  its  most  common 
name,  the  "  White  House."  It  was  designed  by  James  Hoban,  and 
was  modelled  after  the  palace  of  the  Duke  of  Leinster.  The  corner- 
stone was  laid  on  the  13th  of  October,  1792,  and  the  house  was  ready 
for  occupancy  in  the  summer  of  1800.  It  was  partially  destroyed  by 
the  British  in  1814.  It  has  a  front  of  170  feet,  and  a  depth  of  86 
feet.  It  contains  two  lofty  stories  of  rooms,  and  the  roof  is  surrounded 
with  a  handsome  balustrade.  The  exterior  walls  are  ornamented  with 
fine  Ionic  pilasters.  On  the  north  front  is  a  handsome  portico,  with 
four  Ionic  columns  in  front,  and  a  projecting  screen  with  three  columns. 
The  space  between  these  two  rows  of  pillars  is  a  covered  carriage  way. 
The  main  entrance  to  the  house  is  from  this  portico  through  a  massive 
doorway,  which  opens  into  the  main  hall.  The  garden  front  has  a 
rusticated  basement,  which  gives  a  third  story  to  the  house  on  this 
ride,  and  by  a  semicircular  projecting  colonnade  of  six  columns,  with 
l/.vo  flights  of  steps  leading  from  the  ground  to  the  level  of  the  prin- 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  547 

cipal  story.  The  interior  is  handsome,  but  simple,  and  contains  the 
state  apartments,  or  rooms  used  for  public  receptions,  the  Executive 
offices,  and  the  private  residence  of  the  President  and  his  family. 

The  United  States  Treasury  is  located  on  Pennsylvania  avenue,  at 
the  corner  of  Fifteenth  street  west,  fronting  G  street.  The  old  build- 
ing was  commenced  in  1836,  and  was  constructed  of  inferior  brown 
sandstone,  painted  in  imitation  of  granite.  In  1855,  the  extension  was 
begun.  It  is  now  nearly  completed.  This  extension  has  more  than 
doubled  the  size  of  the  original  edifice,  and  has  made  the  whole 
building  one  of  the  handsomest  and  most  imposing  in  the  country. 
The  old  building  extended  along  Fifteenth  street,  and  was  ornamented 
with  an  unbroken  Ionic  colonnade,  342  feet  long,  which,  though 
showy,  was  inconvenient,  as  it  excluded  the  light  from  the  rooms. 
The  plan  of  the  extension  flanks  the  old  building  at  each  end  with 
massive  granite  masonry,  and  makes  beautiful  terminations  of  the 
north  and  south  fronts,  which  serve  to  relieve  the  dreary  monotony 
of  the  long  colonnade,  besides  providing  a  large  new  building  at  each 
end.  "  There  are  two  inner  quadrangles  formed  by  the  old  rear 
building,  extending  back  from  the  eastern  entrance.  These  courts  are 
each  130  feet  square.  The  walls  of  the  extension  are  composed  of 
pilasters,  resting  on  a  base  which  rises  some  12  feet  above  the  ground 
on  the  southern  or  lower  side.  Between  the  pilasters  or  antse  are  belt 
courses,  beautifully  moulded,  and  the  facings  of  the  doors  and  win- 
dows are  fine  bold  mouldings  in  keeping.  In  the  centre  of  the 
southern,  western,  and  northern  fronts  are  magnificent  porticoes.  The 
west  front  has  also  the  projecting  pediments  at  the  ends,  corresponding 
with  those  on  the  east  side,  and  each  supported  by  square  antse  at  the 
angles,  with  two  columns  between.  The  whole  building  is  of  the 
Grecian  or  Ionic  order,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  massive  balustrade. 
The  new  structure  is  of  the  best  and  most  beautiful  granite  in  the 
world,  brought  from  Dix  Island,  on  the  coast  of  Maine.  The  antse 
and  columns  are  monoliths.  The  large,  solid  antse  weigh  nearly 
100,000  pounds,  and  the  columns  some  75,000.  The  facility  with 
which  the  immense  masses  are  hewn  out  of  the  quarries,  swung  on 
board  vessels,  brought  to  the  capital,  and  raised  to  the  positions  which 
the  architect  in  his  studio  designed  them  to  occupy,  conveys  a  high 
idea  of  American  art  and  enterprise.  The  Treasury  Building,  as  ex- 
tended, is  465  feet  long,  exclusive  of  the  porticoes,  by  266  feet  wide." 
The  courts  are  ornamented  with  handsome  fountains.  A  very  beau- 
tiful one  adorns  the  space  in  front  of  the  western  portico,  at  the  en- 


548  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

trance  to  the  President's  Park,  and  another  is  now  being  constructed 
before  the  north  front.  The  entrances  are  through  massive  gateways. 
The  yard  on  the  north  and  west  sides  is  lower  than  the  street,  and 
broad  flights  of  steps  lead  to  it.  A  handsome  granite  balustrade  ex- 
tends along  the  north  wall.  The  interior  arrangements  are  unusually 
fine.  The  architecture  ranks  next  to  that  of  the  Capitol  in  its  mag- 
nificence, and  is  peculiarly  American  in  its  details.  Unlike  most  of 
the  public  buildings,  the  offices  are  large,  airy,  and  handsome,  pre- 
senting the  appearance  of  splendid  saloons,  and  affording  a  greater 
degree  of  comfort  to  the  occupants  than  the  narrow,  cell-like  apart- 
ments of  the  old  Treasury. 

The  Department  of  State  will  soon  be  located  in  the  Treasury  Ex- 
tension, where  elegant  and  convenient  apartments  are  being  prepared 
for  it. 

The  Patent  Office,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  Department  of 
the  Interior,  is  used  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  and  his  clerks, 
but  was  designed  originally  for  the  use  of  the  Bureau  of  Patents. 
This  bureau  is  entrusted  with  the  duty  of  granting  letters  patent 
securing  a  profitable  reward  to  any  person  inventing  articles  beneficial 
to  civilization.  The  building,  known  as  the  Patent  Office,  occupies 
two  whole  squares,  and  fronts  south  on  F  street,  north  on  G  street, 
east  on  7th  street  west,  and  west  on  9th  street  west.  The  length 
of  the  building,  from  7th  to  9th  streets,  is  410  feet,  and  the  width, 
from  F  to  G  streets,  is  275  feet.  It  is  built  up  along  the  four  sides, 
with  a  large  interior  quadrangle  about  265  by  135  feet  in  size.  It  is 
constructed  in  the  plainest  Doric  style,  of  massive  crystallized  marble, 
and  though  devoid  of  exterior  ornament,  is  one  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent buildings  in  the  city.  It  is  grand  in  its  simplicity,  and  its  archi- 
tectural details  are  pure  and  tasteful.  It  is  ornamented  with  massive 
porticoes,  one  on  each  front,  which  add  much  to  its  appearance.  The 
eastern  portico  is  much  admired.  That  on  the  south  front  is  an  exact 
copy  of  the  portico  of  the  Pantheon  of  Rome.  The  interior  is  divided 
into  three  stories.  The  ground  and  second  floors  are  arranged  in  offices 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  business  of  the  Interior  Department,  but 
the  third  floor  is  occupied  by  an  immense  saloon  extending  entirely 
around  the  quadrangle.  This  is  used  as  the  Model  Room,  but  partakes, 
as  far  as  the  south  hall  is  concerned,  of  the  character  of  a  museum.  The 
models  and  other  articles  are  arranged  in  glass  cases  on  each  side  of 
the  room,  ample  space  being  left  in  the  centre  for  promenading. 
There  are  two  rows  of  cases,  one  above  the  other — the  upper  row  be- 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA. 


549 


UNITED   STATES  PATENT   OFFICE. 

ing  placed  in  a  handsome  light  gallery  of  iron,  reached  by  tasteful 
iron  stairways,  and  extending  entirely  around  the  east,  north,  and 
west  halls.  The  halls  themselves  are  paved  with  handsome  tiles. 
The  ceiling  is  supported  by  a  double  row  of  imposing  pillars,  which 
also  act  as  supports  to  the  galleries,  and  both  the  walls  and  ceilings 
are  finished  in  marble  panels  and  frescoes.  A  more  beautiful  saloon 
is  not  to  be  found  in  America.  Connected  with  the  Patent  Office 
is  a  valuable  library,  and  the  most  interesting  museum  of  American 
antiquities,  etc.,  in  the  country. 

The  General  Post  Office  is  used  by  the  Postmaster-General  of  the 
United  States,  and  his  assistants.  It  covers  an  entire  block,  almost 
directly  opposite  the  Patent  Office,  and  is  bounded  by  E  and  F  streets 
north,  and  7th  and  8th  streets  west.  It  is  300  feet  long,  from  north 
to  south,  and  204  feet  wide,  from  east  to  west.  It  is  built  of  white 
marble,  in  the  Corinthian  style  of  architecture,  and  is  the  best  repre- 
sentation of  the  Italian  palatial  ever  erected  upon  this  continent.  It 
is  rectangular  in  form,  with  a  spacious  interior  court-yard,  95  by  194 
feet  in  size.  On  the  7th  street  side  there  is  a  vestibule,  which  consti- 


550  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

tutes  the  grand  entrance  into  the  building.  The  ceiling  is  composed 
of  exquisitely  ornamented  marble  panels,  supported  by  four  marble 
columns ;  and  the  walls,  niches,  and  floor,  are  of  marble,  the  floor 
being  richly  tesselated.  On  8th  street  there  is  an  entrance  for  mail 
wagons,  handsomely  ornamented.  The  City  post-office  is  in  the  F 
street  side  of  the  building,  and  is  tastefully  arranged. 

The  War  Department  is  situated  on  Pennsylvania  avenue,  west  of  the 
President's  House.  It  is  a  plain,  old-fashioned  edifice  of  brick,  painted 
iu  lead  color.  It  contains  the  offices  of  the  Secretary  of  War  and  his 
assistants. 

The  Navy  Department  is  situated  immediately  in  the  rear  of  the 
War  Department,  and  fronts  on  17th  street  west.  It  is  a  plain  build- 
ing of  brick,  and  contains  the  offices  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  and 
his  clerks.  It  is  proposed  to  erect  new  and  handsome  edifices  for  the 
War  and  Navy  departments. 

The  Bureau  of  Agriculture  stands  upon  a  portion  of  the  Smith- 
sonian Reservation.  The  grounds  about  it  comprise  about  20  acres,  and 
have  been  laid  out  with  much  taste.  The  building  is  of  pressed  brick, 
four  stories  high,  and  is  surmounted  with  a  French  roof.  It  contains 
the  offices  of  the  Commissioner  of  Agriculture  and  his  assistants, 
whose  business  it  is  to  overlook  and  promote  the  agricultural  interests 
of  the  country,  and  to  receive  and  publish  statistics  concerning  them. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  departments  of  the  Government. 

The  Navy  Yard,  situated  on  the  Eastern  Branch,  at  the  foot  of  8th 
street  east,  covers  an  area  of  20  acres,  enclosed  by  a  high  brick  wall. 
It  is  one  of  the  principal  establishments  of  the  Government,  and  con- 
tains several  ship  houses,  and  machine  shops  for  the  manufacture  of 
everything  needed  for  the  building,  equipping,  and  fitting-out  of  ships 
of  war. 

The  Arsenal  stands  at  the  extreme  southern  end  of  the  city,  on 
Greenleaf 's  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Eastern  Branch  of  the  Potomac. 
It  is  quite  an  extensive  establishment,  and  is  one  of  the  principal 
Arsenals  of  Construction  in  the  country.  It  is  interesting  as  having 
been  the  scene  of  the  trial  and  execution  of  the  persons  concerned  in 
the  assassination  of  President  Lincoln. 

The  National  Observatory  is  situated  upon  an  elevated  site,  south- 
west of  the  President's  mansion,  near  the  Georgetown  line,  and  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  both  cities  and  of  the  Potomac  River  as  far  down 
as  Fort  Washington  and  Mount  Vernon.  It  is  under  the  control  of  the 
Navy  Department,  and  is  in  charge  of  a  corps  of  naval  officers  selected 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  551 

for  their  scientific  abilities.  It  ranks  high  amongst  the  Observatories' 
of  the  world,  that  of  Russia  only  being  superior  to  it.  It  is  in  charge 
of  all  the  nautical  »books,  maps,  charts,  and  instruments  belonging  to 
the  Navy. 

The  Smithsonian  Institution  stands  on  a  part  of  the  portion  of  the 
public  grounds  extending  westward  from  the  Capitol  to  the  Potomac 
River,  and  called  " The  Mall."  The  grounds  extend  from  7th  street 
west  to  12th  street  west,  and  from  the  Canal  (which  forms  the  north- 
ern boundary)  to  B  street  south.  They  are  very  extensive,  com- 
prising an  area  of  52  acres,  and  were  laid  out  by  the  distinguished 
horticulturist  and  landscape  gardener,  Andrew  Jackson  Downing, 
who  died  while  engaged  in  this  work.  A  handsome  monument  to 
his  memory  stands  in  the  grounds.  It  consists  of  a  massive  vase 
resting  on  a  pedestal,  the  whole  being  executed  of  the  finest  Italian 
marble.  The  building  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  park.  The  site 
is  about  20  feet  above  the  average  level  of  Pennsylvania  avenue,  and 
the  centre  of  the  building  is  exactly  opposite  10th  street  west. 

The  structure  is  in  the  style  of  architecture  belonging  to  the  last 
half  of  the  twelfth  century,  the  latest  variety  tof  rounded  style,  as  it  is 
found  immediately  anterior  to  its  merging  into  the  early  Gothic,  and 
is  known  as  the  Norman,  the  Lombard,  or  Romanesque.  The  semi- 
circular arch,  stilted,  is  employed  throughout — in  doors,  windows,  and 
other  openings.  The  main  building  is  205  feet  long  by  57  feet  wide, 
and,  to  the  top  of  the  corbel  course,  58  feet  high.  The  east  wing  is 
82  by  52  feet,  and,  to  the  top  of  its  battlement,  42  J  feet  high.  The 
west  wing,  including  its  projecting  apsis,  is  84  by  40  feet,  and  38  feet 
high.  Each  of  the  wings  is  connected  with  the  main  building  by  a 
range,,  which,  including  its  cloisters,  is  60  feet  long  by  49  feet  wide. 
This  makes  the  length  of  the  entire  building,  from  east  to  west,  447 
feet.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  160  feet.  The  north  front  of  the  main 
building  is  ornamented  with  two  central  towers,  the  loftiest  of  which 
is  150  feet  high.  It  has  also  a  handsome  covered  carriage-way,  upon 
which  opens  the  main  entrance  to  the  building.  The  south  central 
tower  is  37  feet  square,  91  feet  high,  and  massively  constructed.  A 
double  campanile  tower,  17  feet  square,  and  117  feet  high,  rises  from 
the  northeast  corner  of  the  main  building ;  and  the  southwest  corner 
has  a  lofty  octagonal  tower,  in  which  is  a  spiral  stairway,  leading  to 
the  summit.  There  are  four  other  smaller  towers  of  lesser  heights, 
making  nine  in  all,  the  effect  of  which  is  very  beautiful,  and  which 
once  caused  a  wit  to  remark  that  it  seemed  to  him  as  if  a  "  col  lection 


552  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  church  steeples  had  gotten  lost,  and  were  consulting  together  as  to 
the  best  means  of  getting  home  to  their  respective  churches."  The 
entire  edifice  is  constructed  of  a  fine  quality  of  lilac-gray  freestone, 
found  in  the  new  red-sandstone  formation,  where  it  crosses  the  Poto- 
mac near  the  mouth  of  Seneca  Creek.  The  Institution  was  founded 
by  James  Smithsdn,  an  eminent  Englishman.  He  died  in  1828,  and 
left  the  sum  of  $515,169  to  the  United  States  for  the  purpose  of 
founding  the  Institution  which  bears  his  name.  The  object  of  Smith- 
son  in  founding  this  institution  was,  in  his  own  words,  "to  found  at 
Washington,  under  the  name  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  an  estab- 
lishment for  the  increase  and  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  men." 

The  National  Washington  Monument  stands  immediately  on  the 
shore  of  the  Potomac,  directly  west  of  the  Capitol,  and  south  of  the 
White  House.  It  is  unfinished.  Its  total  height  is  to  be  600  feet,  of 
which  184  feet  have  been  completed.  No  work  has  been  done  on  it 
for  several  years.  It  is  to  be  finished  by  the  voluntary  contributions 
of  the  citizens  of  the  Republic.  It  is  to  be  built  of  white  marble. 

The  City  Hall  is  the  property  of  the  City  of  Washington.  It  is  a 
common  place  structure  of  white  marble.  Besides  the  public  build- 
ings, there  are  a  number  of  fine  edifices  used  for  business  purposes  and 
for  residences.  The  city  is  improving  rapidly  in  this  respect. 

The  trade  of  Washington  is  almost  entirely  local.  The  City  is  con- 
nected with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railways,  and  the  Potomac  is 
navigable  for  steamers.  Its  manufacturing,  interests  are  in  their 
infancy.  The  principal  amount  of  the  work  done  is  on  Government 
account. 

The  principal  points  of  the  city  are  connected  by  street  railways. 
Pure  water  is  brought  into  the  city  from  the  Potomac  above  George- 
town. The  Aqueduct  is  one  of  the  finest  works  in  the  world.  It 
was  constructed  by  the  U.  S.  Engineer  Corps.  The  city  is  lighted 
with  gas.  It  contains  about  60  churches,  some  of  which  are  very 
handsome.  The  Markets  are  bountifully  supplied.  The  Hotels  are 
numerous,  but  do  not  compare  favorably  with  those  of  the  other  large 
cities  of  the  country.  The  Public  Schools  are,  as  yet,  in  their  infancy. 
There  are  five  large  "  public  schools,"  as  they  are  called,  which  cor- 
respond to  the  "  high  schools"  of  most  other  cities,  and  a  number  of 
primary  schools.  The  system  is  still  incomplete,  and  capable  of  great 
expansion  and  reform.  Of  late  years  it  has  received  more  attention 
from  the  city  authorities  and  the  people,  and  there  is  now  a  fair  pros- 
pect that  the  system  will  soon  be  placed  upon  a  basis  which  will 
enable  it  to  meet  the  wants  of  all  classes  of  the  community. 


DISTRICT    OF    COLUMBIA.  553 

There  are  many  private  schools,  some  of  which  are  excellent,  and 
the  city  also  contains  several  male  and  female  boarding  schools. 
Columbia  Gonzaga  (a  Roman  Catholic  Institution)  and  the  National 
Medical  Colleges  are  located  here. 

The  government  of  the  city  is  merged  with  that  of  the  District  of 
Columbia.  In  1870  the  population  was  109,204. 

The  early  history  of  Washington  has  been  given  in  connection  with 
the  District  of  Columbia.  In  1800,  the  period  of  the  removal  of  the 
Government  from  Philadelphia,  the  population  was  3210.  By  1810 
it  had  increased  to  8208.  In  1814  the  city  was  captured  by  a  British 
army  under  Lord  Ross.  Upon  their  withdrawal  from  the  city, 
they  set  fire  to  the  Capitol,  the  President's  House,  and  the  other 
public  buildings,  which  were  either  wholly  destroyed  or  greatly 
injured.  In  1864,  the  city  was  attacked  by  a  Confederate  army 
under  General  Early,  who  failed  to  capture  it,  and  was  forced  to 
retreat.  The  city  has  been  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  interesting 
events  of  the  late  history  of  the  Republic. 

GEORGETOWN 

Is  situated  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Potomac 
River,  at  the  head  of  tide  water.  It  is  separated  from  Washington 
City  by  Rock  Creek.  It  is  built  along  a  range  of  hills,  the  highest 
of  which  are  called  the  "Heights."  These  are  occupied  by  numerous 
villas  and  tasteful  residences,  and  command  extensive  views  of  Wash- 
ington and  the  surrounding  country.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  off 
and  is  well  built,  though  somewhat  "  old  timey  "  in  appearance.  It 
was  once  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  possessed  a  large  foreign 
commerce  fifty  years  ago.  At  present  the  tonnage  owned  in  the  port 
does  not  exceed  3000  tons.  It  is  still  one  of  the  most  important  fish 
markets  in  the  country.  Vast  quantities  of  shad  and  herring  are 
caught  in  the  Potomac  and  arc  brought  to  Georgetown  to.  be  packed 
in  barrels.  The  city  is  interested  in  manufactures  to  a  considerable 
extent,  and  is  improving  rapidly  in  this  respect.  There  are  nearly 
50  flour  mills  in  the  city.  The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  really 
terminates  here,  although  there  is  a  prolongation  extending  across  the 
Potomac  to  Alexandria,  in  Virginia.  The  canal  is  carried  over  the 
Potomac  in  an  aqueduct,  a  tremendous  structure,  1446  feet  in  length, 
and  36  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  river.  The  cost  of  this 
structure  was  $2,000,000. 


554  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Georgetown  is  said  to  be  a  more  agreeable  place  of  residence  than 
Washington.  It  is  noted  for  its  cultivated  society,  and  the  hospitality 
of  its  people.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Georgetown  College,  a  Roman 
Catholic  institution  of  high  rank.  The  city  has  its  public  schools, 
and  a  number  of  private  schools.  A  United  States  hospital  for 
soldiers  is  located  here.  Georgetown  is  connected  with  Washington 
by  a  street  railway.  It  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Potomac,  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  contains  10  churches.  The  government  of  the 
city  is  merged  in  that  of  the  District.  In  1870  the  population  was 
11,384.  Georgetown  is  a  much  older  place  than  Washington.  It 
was  laid  out  by  act  of  the  Colonial  Government  of  Maryland  in  1751, 
and  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1789. 


VIRGINIA. 

Area, 38,352  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  I860,* 1,596,318 

Population  in  1870, 1,225,163 

THE  State  of  Virginia,  the  oldest  of  the  original  members  of  the 
Union,  is  situated  between  36°  30'  and  about  39°  20'  N.  latitude,  and 
between  75°  10'  and  83°  30'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Maryland,  West  Virginia,  and  Kentucky,  on  the  east  by 
Maryland  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  south  by  North  Carolina 
and  Tennessee,  and  on  the  west  by  Kentucky  and  West  Virginia. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  following  description  of  the  natural  features  of  this  State  is 
taken  from  a  pamphlet  recently  issued  by  General  John  D.  Imboden, 
the  "  Domestic  State  Agent  of  Immigration  for  Virginia." 

"  No  State  in  the  Union  presents  a  greater  variety  of  surface  and 
climate  than  Virginia — from  the  mountains  of  the  interior  and  the 
rugged  hills  east  and  west  of  them,  to  the  rich  alluvions  of  the  rivers, 
and  the  sandy  flats  on  the  sea-coast.  The  greatest  extent  of  moun- 
tains, and  the  greatest  variety  of  timbers  are  found  in  this  State. 
White  Top  Mountain,  in  Gray  son  county,  attains  an  elevation  of  six 
thousand  feet. 

"The  State  is  by  nature  divided  into  five  districts  or  regions,  viz. : 
the  Lower  or  Tide- water,  the  Piedmont,  the  Valley,  the  Alleghanies, 
and  the  Trans-Alleghanies.  We  will  glance  at  them  in  their  natural 
order. 

*  Since  the  census  of  1860,  the  western  counties  of  the  old  State  have 
been  erected  into  the  new  State  of  West  Virginia. 

555 


556  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"  LOWER  OR  TIDE-WATER  DISTRICT.  —  Thirty-seven  counties, 
mostly  bordering  on  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  Chesapeake  Bay,  compose 
this  district.  It  is  generally  level,  not  more  than  60  feet  above  tide, 
even  in  the  highest  places.  Great  navigable  streams  traverse  it  in  a 
southeastern  direction,  such  as  the  Potomac,  Rappahannock,  York, 
and  James,  with  a  multitude  of  smaller  streams.  The  great  slope 
which  forms  this  district  is  *  divided  by  natural  boundaries  into  no  less 
than  twelve  principal  peninsulas/  says  General  Wise,  of  Virginia,  in 
a  recent  address,  replete  with  valuable  information,  '  the  eastern  shore 
of  the  Chesapeake,  that  between  the  Potomac  and  Rappahannock ; 
between  the  Rappahannock  and  Piankatank  ;  between  the  Piankatank 
and  York ;  the  York  and  James ;  the  Mattapony  and  Pamunkey ; 
the  Chickahorniny  and  the  James;  the  Nansemond  and  Dismal 
Swamp  and  the  Ocean ;  the  Nausemond  and  James  and  the  Black- 
water;  the  Black  water  and  the  Nottoway;  the  Nottoway  and  Me- 
herrin  ;  the  Meherrin  and  the  Roanoke.' 

"  This  favored  region  contains  every  variety  of  soil.  The  delta  of 
these  rivers  l  in  the  borders  of  Virginia  is  richer  and  rarer  in  every 
production  than  the  garden  of  the  Nile/  There  is  nowhere  near  it 
any  < arida  nutrix  leonum,'  says  General  Wise,  'and  its  only  quags  of 
swamp,  even  in  the  Big  Dragon  of  the  Piankatank,  and  on  the 
Chickahominy,  and  around  the  fire-fly  camp  of  Drummond  Lake,  are 
capable  of  being  converted  into  a  New  Holland,  by  dyke  and  ditch 
of  easy  spit  and  drain,  or  horticulture  of  every  fruit  and  vegetable, 
where  drought  cannot  parch,  and  of  a  temperature  milder  than  that 
much  farther  south.  Vegetation  is  confined  to  no  one  class  of  plants 
and  trees,  and  flower,  and  fruit,  and  cereal,  and  staple  crops  of  every 
variety  flourish  with  a  beauty  and  a  fullness  and  a  flavor  to  cheer 
industry  and  art  with  luscious  plenty  at  home  and  a  paying  profit  at 
the  markets  of  every  Eastern  city.  There  is  a  navigable  stream  at 
almost  every  door.  There  are  eligible  sites  on  every  creek  and  river 
in  this  region,  not  only  for  all  the  more  common  fruits,  such  as  apples, 
peaches,  pears,  cherries,  berries,  plums,  and  melons,  but  for  the  rarer 
and  more  delicate  fruits — such  as  grapes,  figs,  pomegranates,  apricots, 
nectarines,  Persian  cantelopes,  strawberries,  and  cranberries.  Accord- 
ing to  Prince,  there  are  no  sites  on  the  continent  so  Italy-like  for 
fruits,  as  some  of  these  peninsulas  of  lowland  Virginia. 

"  The  crops  of  grain  and  vegetables  are  still  more  various,  and  the 
lands  the  easiest  tilled  in  the  world,  with  mines  of  marl  and  shell, 
and  fossils  and  muck  for  manure  in  every  part.  It  is  a  great  mistake 


VIRGINIA.  557 

to  suppose  that  this  section  is  not  equally  good  for  stock-raising  of  its 
kind,  and  for  clothing  as  well  as  for  food.  It  has  the  finest  ranges  in 
its  savannas  and  salt  marshes,  for  small  cattle  of  the  Devon  breed,  and 
the  best  for  hogs  and  sheep — and  the  hardiest  blooded  horses.  The 
pony  of  the  Chincoteague  Island  will  sell  for  a  higher  price  than 
any  horse  in  America  proportioned  to  his  girth ;  and  the  best  racers 
of  the  two  last  centuries  were  foaled  from  the  blood  the  south  side  of 
the  James.  Flax  and  hemp  may  be  grown  to  any  extent,  and  cotton 
has  been  grown  profitably.  Its  forests  furnish  the  choicest  ship-timber 
from  its  salt  sea  atmosphere  in  thirty  miles  of  the  coast.  Its  Hampton 
Roads  is  the  largest  harbor  of  the  continent,  to  which  the  eastern 
rivers  converge  from  every  point  of  the  compass  for  commerce.  And, 
everywhere,  on  land  and  water,  nature  has  provided  a  meat-house  of 
fisheries  and  game,  venison,  wild  turkeys,  quails  and  woodcock,  rabbits, 
squirrels,  robins,  sora,  reed-birds,  shell-fish,  scale-fish,  terrapins,  turtles, 
swans,  wild  geese,  brant,  wild  ducks,  and  plover  innumerable,  and 
indestructible. 

"The  salubrity  'of  its  climate/  says  General  Wise,  '  will  compare 
with  that  of  any  region  since  drainage  and  liming  of  the  lands  began 
to  remove  the  causes  of  malarial  fevers  chiefly  at  the  point  where  the 
tides  of  salt  water  meet  the  currents  of  the  fresh  water  at  the  rivers.7 

"  The  entire  region  is  favorable  to  the  growth  of  the  finer  kinds  of 
tobacco,  offering  great  inducements  for  the  settlement  of  growers  from 
the  various  portions  of  European  tobacco  regions.  There  is  no  reason 
why  the  finest  Cuban  tobaccoes  should  not  grow  here,  and  with  the 
now  spreading  cultivation  of  the  Latakia  tobacco  plant,  brought  by 
Bayard  Taylor  from  Palestine,  and  successfully  introduced  already  by 
him  in  Pennsylvania,  a  great  future  is  open  for  this  staple  in  Virginia. 
Mr.  Taylor  thinks  this  variety  incomparably  better  than  the  finest 
Yara  or  Cuba  ever  grown,  and  states  that  it  does  not  deteriorate  by 
being  transplanted,  but  retains  perfectly  all  its  delicious  characteristics. 

"  Market  gardeners  near  Norfolk  cultivate  early  vegetables  for  the 
markets  of  Maryland,  Pennsylvania  and  New  York,  having  their 
produce  ripening  from  three  to  four  weeks  earlier  than  in  those  more 
northern  latitudes.  They  have  been  known,  on  from  five  to  ten  acres 
in  cultivation,  to  make  per  annum  from  $2500  to  $5000  clear  profit. 
By  the  Anarnessic  line  of  raflroad,  which  now  in  thirteen  hours'  travel 
connects  the  city  of  Norfolk  with  the  metropolis  of  New  York,  market 
gardeners  and  farmers  on  the  lower  Chesapeake  Bay,  especially  those 
who  live  in  Accomac  and  Northampton  counties,  may  directly,  and 


55$  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

those  of  Princess  Anne,  Norfolk,  York,  Gloucester,  Mat-hews,  Mid- 
dlesex, Lancaster,  and  Northumberland  may,  by  means  of  their  own 
little  schooners,  in  one  night's  travel  across  the  bay,  offer  their  produce 
for  sale  within  twenty -four  hours,  in  the  best  market  on  the  American 
continent.  The  fisheries  on  these  coasts  are  world-renowned.  On 
the  whole  line  of  the  counties  above  mentioned,  fish  manure  can  be 
abundantly  obtained  for  the  labor  of  carrying  it  away.  Wheat  and 
other  cereals  flourish.  During  the  war  in  this  section,  the  inhabitants 
felt  no  apprehension  on  the  score  of  living ;  they  could  find  fish  and 
oysters,  and  wild  ducks,  everywhere,  and  in  plenty.  In  Narisemoncf 
county,  in  the  celebrated  Dismal  Swamp,  peat  has  been  discovered. 
It  is  now  being  cut,  moulded  and  shipped  to  the  northern  cities,  and 
found  to  be  extremely  profitable. 

"  By  allowing  100  inhabitants  to  the  square  mile,  and  giving  60 
acres  as  a  homestead  to  each  family,  the  lowlands  of  Virginia  can 
maintain  a  population  of  1,600,000  souls. 

"  PIEDMONT  DISTRICT. — At  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  stretching 
away  to  where  the  navigation  of  the  rivers  which  traverse  the  lowlands 
ceases,  a  region  embracing  32  counties,  lies,  more  diversified  in 
surface  than  the  lowlands — and,  of  course,  more  elevated,  with  a 
genial,  healthful  climate.  Here  are  found  the  greatest  inducements 
for  the  erection  of  manufacturing  establishments, — natural  water- 
power  being  everywhere  abundantly  at  command.  This  land  is  the 
Piedmont  of  Virginia — like  the  vinous  land  of  Italy,  though  not  so 
naked.  As  General  Wise  says :  '  For  hill  and  dale,  and  grove  and 
meadow,  for  lawns  and  orchards,  and  mountain  spires  and  undulating 
surface  of  waving  wheat-fields  and  green  swards,  and  buoyant  springs 
and  sparkling  fountains,  and  bracing  air — it  surpasses  all  classic  lands 
of  Arcadia.'  It  is  divided  by  the  James  into  North  and  South  Pied- 
mont, from  the  Point  of  Rocks  to  Lynchburg,  and  from  Lynchburg 
to  the  North  Carolina  line.  The  difference  in  these  two  divisions  of 
the  Piedmont  is  attributable  more  to  the  difference  in  the  past  habits 
of  cultivating  the  two  than  to  any  great  variation  of  soil  or  climate. 
Though  one  is  farther  north,  yet  the  climate  of  each  is  much  the 
same  as  that  of  the  other,  both  being  affected  by  a  mountain  atmos- 
phere. The  northern  has  the  stiffest  clay,  and  cultivates  wheat  and 
corn  and  artificial  grasses,  and  raises  live  stock ;  the  southern  culti- 
vates mostly  tobacco  and  corn,  though  wheat  also  largely,  and  grazes 
but  little.  Both  are  beautiful  and  fertile  and  fit  for  farming — capable 
of  the  highest  culture;  are  cool  and  bracing  in  temperature  and 
blessed  with  health. 


VIRGINIA.  559 

"This  district  has  an  area  of  10,000  square  miles,  and  is  capable  of 
maintaining  a  population  of  1,000,000  souls.  It  is  not  generally  a 
lime  land,  but  portions  of  it  are  very  rich,  viz. :  Loudoun,  Fauquier, 
Albemarle,  and  Bedford  counties.  The  tobacco  which  is  raised  in  the 
southern  section  of  Piedmont,  south  of  38°,  is  known  as  shipping 
tobacco.  The  fine  tobacco  counties  in  this  section  are  Albemarle, 
Henry,  Pittsylvania,  Halifax,  Campbell,  etc. 

"Before  we  reach  the  third  principal  region  of  Virginia  we  must 
cross  the  Blue  Ridge,  where  we  find  still  some  of  the  most  beautiful 
forests  of  America,  and  an  atmosphere  of  surpassing  salubrity.  The 
productions  of  this  magnificent  mountain-belt  are  similar  to  those 
regions  on  its  sides.  Waving  wheat-fields  and  pastures  and  charming 
valleys,  with  grazing  cattle  and  hardy  husbandry,  may  everywhere  be 
met.  Vineyards  are  everywhere  springing  up,  and  its  honey  finds 
now,  and  its  wines  will  soon  find,  a  market  in  the  world. 

"  To  the  sturdy  emigrant  this  ridge  offers  still  thousands  of  acres 
of  virgin  lands,  and  nowhere  in  America  will  he  have  nature's  assur- 
ance of  a  long  life  so  plainly  indicated  as  here.  This  ridge  alone  con- 
tains at  least  2000  square  miles,  or  1,280,000  acres — enough  to  divide 
into  6400  farms  of  200  acres  each,  and  to  support  a  population  of 
50,000  more  than  it  has  now. 

"  VALLEY  DISTRICT.— Crossing  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains  we 
come  to  the  celebrated  valley  of  Virginia  (Shenandoah  and  South 
Branch),  not  only  renowned  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil — 8000  square 
miles  in  area,  and  capable  of  supporting  800,000  people — but  for  the 
splendid  characteristics  of  its  inhabitants — originally  English,  German, 
Scotch  and  Irish,  now  intermixed  in  one  brave  race.  A  continuation 
of  the  fruitful  Cumberland  Valley  of  Pennsylvania,  it  stretches 
between  the  Blue  Ridge  and  Alleghany  Mountains  the  entire  length  of 
Virginia,  obliquely  from  northeast  to  southwest,  nearly  300  miles, 
and  is  from  25  to  30  miles  wide.  Possessing  the  finest  grazing  country 
in  the  world,  and  having  throughout  a  limestone  foundation,  its  lands 
yield  from  20  to  40  bushels  ef  wheat,  and  from  40  to  50  bushels  of 
Indian  corn  is  by  no  means  an  extraordinary  crop. 

"To  show  the  remarkable  permanancy  of  its  fertility,  we  cite  the 
following  from  a  traveller  in  the  last  century.  Burnaby,  in  his 
travels,  describes  the  condition  of  the  Germans  on  the  Shenandoah  as 
follows:  ' I  could  not  but  reflect  with  pleasure  on  the  situation  of 
these  people,  and  think  if  there  is  such  a  thing  as  happiness  in  this 
life  they  enjoy  it.  Far  from  the  bustle  of  the  world,  they  live  in  the 


560  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

most  delightful  climate  and  richest  soil  imaginable ;  they  are  every- 
where surrounded  with  beautiful  prospects  and  sylvan  scenes,  lofty 
mountains,  transparent  streams,  falls  of  water,  rich  valleys,  and 
majestic  woods;  the  whole  interspersed  with  an  infinite  variety  of 
flowering  shrubs,  constitute  the  landscape  surrounding  them  ;  they 
are  subject  to  few  diseases;  are  generally  robust  and  live  in  perfect 
liberty ;  they  are  ignorant  of  want  and  acquainted  with  but  few  vices ; 
their  inexperience  of  the  elegancies  of  life  precludes  any  regret  that 
they  possess  not  the  means  of  enjoying  them ;  but  they  possess  what 
many  princes  would  give  their  dominions  for — health,  content,  and 
tranquillity  of  mind.'  Seventy  years  later.  Bernhard,  Duke  of  Saxc- 
Weimer,  says  of  this  valley  :  '  The  country  was  pretty  well  cultivated, 
and  by  the  exterior  of  many  country  houses,  we  were  induced  to  be- 
lieve their  inhabitants  enjoyed  plenty/  Daniel  Webster,  twenty  years 
after  this,  in  a  public  oration  in  the  Shenandoah  Valley,  said :  '  he 
had  seen  no  finer  farming  land  in  his  European  travels  than  in  that 
valley/  Still  twenty  years  later,  and  the  Northern  troops  when  they 
entered  it  victoriously,  after  its  great  defender,  Stonewall  Jackson,  had 
fallen,  exclaimed :  (  Here  is  a  second  Canaan,  let  us  rest  here  and 
pitch  our  tents.'  What  gives  particular  interest  to  this  valley  and  to 
the  Blue  Ridge  to  the  European  and  Northern  emigrant  is  the  fact 
that  there  have  never  been  many  negroes  within  them — at  this  day 
the  land  is  cultivated  almost  entirely  by  white  laborers. 

"THE  ALLEGHANIES. — Beyond  this  valley  westward  rise  the 
Alleghanies.  Their  range  runs  northeast  and  southwest  250  miles, 
by  50  miles  of  average  width — making  of  mountains,  valleys,  and 
dales,  12,500  square  miles.  Besides  their  aspect  of  rocks,  ridges, 
caves,  valleys,  slopes,  healing  springs,  streams,  and  fountains,  they 
present  to  the  eye  a  most  luxuriant  indigenous  verdure  of  blue-grass 
spread  over  forests  and  fields,  which  offer  grazing  to  live  stock  on 
nature's  pastures  without  cost  of  clearing  or  cultivation.  North  of 
the  High  Knob  and  Haystack  there  are  no  negroes.  The  whole 
region  of  these  mountains  abounds  in  minerals  of  every  description, 
which  wait  for  capital  to  develop  them.  Wheat,  rye,  oats,  and  other 
grains,  and  the  fruits  of  northern  latitudes  grow  luxuriantly  every- 
where in  the  valleys,  dales,  plateaus,  and  on  the  slopes  of  these  rugged 
mountains,  and  offer  a  most  inviting  home  to  a  Swiss,  a  Scot,  a  Swede, 
a  Norwegian,  etc.  There  is  room  enough  in  these  mountains  for 
1,200,000  immigrants  of  every  kind  of  occupation." 

The  lower  part  of  the  State  is  divided  by  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  two 


VIRGINIA 


561 


NATU1IAL    BIUDGE. 

counties  lying  between  the  Bay  and  the  Ocean.  They  are  known  as 
the  Eastern  Shore  of  Virginia.  Below  the  mouth  of  the  Potomac 
River,  the  Chesapeake  lies  wholly  in  the  State,  and  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Rappahannock,  Piankatank,  York,  and  James  rivers. 
The  famous  oyster  fishing  grounds  of  the  Chesapeake  are  within  this 
part  of  the  State,  and  from  them  millions  of  bushels  of  oysters  are 
gathered  every  year,  and  shipped  to  Baltimore  and  the  northern 
cities. 

The  Potomac  River  washes  the  entire  northeast  border  of  the  State. 
It  rises  in  two  branches,  in  the  eastern  part  of  West  Virginia.  These 
branches  unite  in  Hampshire  county,  West  Va.,  from  which  point 
the  main  river  pursues  a  generally  southeast  course  to  its  mouth.  It 
is  350  miles  long,  exclusive  of  its  branches.  It  flows  into  the  Chesa- 
peake Bay  through  a  broad  estuary,  50  miles  long,  and  from  6  to  10 
miles  wide.  It  is  navigable  ta  Washington  for  first-class  vessels. 
36 


562  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

At  Georgetown,  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  it  is  broken  by  a  magni- 
ficent fall,  over  50  feet  high.  The  country  along  its  upper  waters  is 
beautiful  and  grand  beyond  description.  At  Harper's  Ferry,  the 
river  first  touches  the  soil  of  Old  Virginia.  Here  it  breaks  through 
the  Blue  Ridge,  a  mountain-pass  of  the  greatest  magnificence.  It 
forms  the  boundary  between  Maryland  and  West  Virginia  and  Vir- 
ginia. Leesburg  and  Alexandria  are  the  principal  towns  of  Virginia 
on  the  river.  George  Washington  was  born  on  the  shores  of  the 
lower  Potomac.  The  Rappahannock  River  is  formed  by  the  junction 
of  the  North  and  Rapidan  rivers  in  the  eastern  part  of  Culpeper 
county.  Flowing  southeast,  it  empties  into  the  Chesapeake  Bay, 
about  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Potomac. 
It  meets  the  tide  at  Fredericksburg,  its  principal  town.  Above  this 
place  it  possesses  almost  unlimited  water-power  of  the  best  descrip- 
tion. It  is  125  miles  long,  and  flows  through  a  beautiful  and  fertile 
country.  Together  with  the  Rapidan,  it  has  been  rendered  famous 
by  the  events  which  occurred  on  its  shores  during  the  late  civil  war. 
The  York  River  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Mattapony  and 
Pamunkey  rivers,  at  the  southeast  end  of  King  William  county.  It 
is  about  40  miles  long,  with  an  average  width  of  3  miles,  and  flows 
southeasterly  into  Chesapeake  Bay,  directly  opposite  Cape  Charles. 
West  Point,  at  its  head,  now  a  mere  hamlet,  was  once  the  most  im- 
portant place  in  the  colony  of  Virginia.  Yorktown,  so  famous  in  the 
Revolution  and  the  Rebellion,  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  a  mile  or  two  from  its  mouth.  The  James  River,  the  principal 
stream  in  the  State,  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Jackson  and 
Cowpasture  rivers,  on  the  borders  of  Alleghany  and  Bottetourt  coun- 
ties. It  flows  southeast  to  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains,  through  which 
it  forces  its  way,  forming  one  of  the  grandest  river  passes  in  America. 
From  this  point  its  general  course  is  northeast  to  the  southern  border 
of  Albemarle  county,  after  which  it  flows  east-southeast  to  the  bay, 
emptying  into  that  body  of  water  between  Capes  Charles  and  Henry. 
It  is  broken  in  several  places  by  falls,  and  at  Richmond  flows  over  a 
succession  of  rapids  six  miles  long.  It  is  about  450  miles  long,  exclu- 
sive of  its  branches.  It  is  navigable  for  ships  and  steamers  to  Rich- 
mond, 150  miles  from  the  sea,  at  the  head  of  tide  water.  The  James 
River  and  Kanawha  Canal  furnish  uninterrupted  navigation  from 
Richmond  to  beyond  the  Blue  Ridge.  The  James  flows  through  a 
beautiful  and  fertile  country  along  its  whole  length.  Above  Rich- 
mond its  water-power  is  magnificent.  The  lower  part  of  the  river  is 


VIRGINIA.  563 

known  as  Hampton  Roads,  and  is  defended  by  the  powerful  works 
of  Fortress  Monroe  and  Fort  Wool.  Lynchburg  and  Richmond  are 
the  principal  towns  on  the  river.  Norfolk  is  situated  on  the  Eliza- 
beth River,  14  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  James,  opposite  Fort- 
ress Monroe.  The  Roanoke  River  of  North  Carolina,  and  the  Hol- 
ston  of  Tennessee,  rise  in  the  southeast  part  of  Virginia. 

The  State  is  crossed  by  the  Alleghany  and  Blue  Ridge  ranges, 
the  former  separating  it  from  West  Virginia.  The  Cumberland 
Mountains  form  the  southwestern  boundary,  and  separate  Virginia 
from  Kentucky. 

The  region  immediately  south  of  Norfolk  is  occupied  by  an  immense 
marsh  known  as  the  Dismal  Swamp,  through  which  a  canal  has  been 
cut  from  Norfolk  to  Elizabeth  City,  North  Carolina,  connecting  the 
waters  of  the  Chesapeake  with  those  of  Albemarle  Sound. 

"  The  celebrated  swamp  called  the  '  Dismal?  lies  partly  in  Vir- 
ginia and  partly  in  North  Carolina ;  it  extends  from  north  to  south 
nearly  30  miles,  and  averages,  from  east  to  west,  about  10  miles. 
Five  navigable  rivers  and  some  creeks  rise  in  it.  The  sources  of  all 
these  streams  are  hidden  in  the  swamp,  and  no  traces  of  them  appear 
above  ground.  From  this  it  appears  that  there  must  be  plentiful 
subferraneous  fountains  to  supply  these  streams,  or  the  soil  must  be 
filled  perpetually  with  the  water  drained  from  the  higher  lands  which 
surround  it.  The  latter  hypothesis  is  most  probable,  because  the  soil 
of  the  swamp  is  a  complete  quagmire,  trembling  under  the  feet,  and 
filling  immediately  the  impression  of  every  step  with  water.  It  may 
be  penetrated  to  a  great  distance  by  thrusting  down  a  stick,  and  when- 
ever a  fire  is  kindled  upon  it,  after  the  layer  of  leaves  and  rubbish  is 
burned  through,  the  coals  sink  down,  and  are  extinguished.  The 
eastern  skirts  of  the  Dismal  Swamp  are  overgrown  with  reeds,  ten  or 
twelve  feet  high,  interlaced  everywhere  with  thorny  bamboo  briers, 
which  render  it  almost  impossible  to  pass.  Among  these  are  found, 
here  and  there,  a  cypress,  and  white  cedar,  which  last  is  commonly  mis- 
taken for  the  juniper.  Towards  the  south  there  is  a  very  large  tract 
covered  with  reeds,  without  any  trees,  which  being  constantly  green, 
and  waving  in  the  wind,  is  called  the  green  sea.  An  evergreen  shrub, 
called  the  gall-bush,  grows  plentifully  throughout,  but  especially  on 
the  borders ;  it  bears  a  berry  which  dyes  a  black  color,  like  the  gall 
of  an  oak,  and  hence  its  name.  Near  the  middle  of  the  swamp,  the 
trees  grow  much  closer,  both  the  cypress  and  cedar ;  and  being  always 
green,  and  loaded  with  large  tops,  are  much  exposed  to  the  wind.,  and 


564  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

easily  blown  down  in  this  boggy  place,  where  the  soil  is  too  soft  to 
afford  sufficient  hold  to  the  roots.  From  these  causes  the  passage  is 
nearly  always  obstructed  by  trees,  which  lie  piled  in  heaps,  and  riding 
upon  each  other;  and  the  snags  left  in  them  pointing  in  every  direc- 
tion, render  it  very  difficult  to  clamber  over  them.  On  the  western 
border  of  the  Dismal  Swamp  is  a  pine  swamp,  above  a  mile  in 
breadth,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  covered  to  the  depth  of  the  knee 
with  water:  the  bottom,  however,  is  firm,  and  though  the  pines  grow- 
ing upon  it  are  very  large  and  tall,  yet  they  are  not  easily  blown 
down  by  the  wind;  so  that  this  swamp  may  be  passed  without  any 
hinderance,  save  that  occasioned  by  the  deptli  of  the  water.  With  all 
these  disadvantages,  the  Dismal  Swamp,  though  disagreeable  to  the 
other  senses,  is  in  many  places  pleasant  to  the  eye,  on  account  of  the 
perpetual  verdure,  which  makes  every  season  like  the  spring,  and 
every  month  like  May.  Immense  quantities  of  shingles  and  other 
juniper  lumber  are  obtained  from  the  swamp,  and  furnish  employ- 
ment for  many  negroes,  who  reside  in  little  huts  in  its  recesses.  Much 
of  the  lumber  is  brought  out  of  the  swamp,  either  through  ditches  cut 
for  the  purpose,  in  long  narrow  lighters,  or  are  carted  out  by  mules, 
on  roads  made  of  poles  laid  across  the  road  so  as  to  touch  each  other, 
forming  a  bridge  or  causeway.  There  are  very  many  miles  of  Such 
road.  The  laborers  carry  the  shingles,  etc.,  to  these  roads  from  the 
trees,  on  their  heads  and  shoulders.  The  Dismal  Swamp  Canal  runs 
through  it  from  north  to  south,  and  the  Portsmouth  and  Roanoke 
Railroad  passes  for  five  miles  across  its  northern  part.  It  looks  like 
a  grand  avenue,  surrounded  on  either  hand  by  magnificent  forests. 
The  trees  here,  the  cypress,  juniper,  oak,  pine,  etc.,  are  of  enormous 
size,  and  richest  foliage ;  and  below  is  a  thick  entangled  undergrowth 
of  reeds,  woodbine,  grape-vines,  mosses,  and  creepers,  shooting  and 
twisting  spirally  around,  interlaced  and  complicated,  so  as  almost  to 
shut  out  the  sun.  The  engineer  who  had  constructed  the  road 
through  this  extraordinary  swamp,  found  it  so  formidable  a  labor  as 
almost  to  despair  of  success.  In  running  the  line,  his  feet  were 
pierced  by  the  sharp  stumps  of  cut  reeds;  he  was  continually  liable  to 
sink  ankle  or  knee  deep  into  a  soft  muddy  ooze ;  the  yellow  flies  and 
mosquitoes  swarmed  in  myriads ;  and  the  swamp  was  inhabited  by 
venomous  serpents  and  beasts  of  prey.  The  Dismal  Swamp  was  once 
a  favorite  hunting-ground  of  the  Indians ;  arrow-heads,  some  knives 
and  hatchets  are  yet  found  there;  and  it  still  abounds  in  deer, 
bears,  wild  turkeys,  wild-cats,  etc.  The  water  of  this  swamp  is  gene- 


VIRGINIA. 


565 


rally  impregnated  with  juniper,  and  is  considered  medicinal  by  the 
people  of  the  surrounding  country,  who  convey  it  some  distance  in 
barrels.  This  swamp  is  much  more  elevated  than  the  surrounding 
country,  and  by  means  of  the  Dismal  Swamp  Canal  might  be  drained, 
and  thus  a  vast  body  of  most  fertile  soil  reclaimed ;  and  the  canal 
might  be  transformed  into  a  railroad  ;  and  the  juniper  soil,  which  is 
vegetable,  might,  perhaps,  be  used  as  peat." 

MINERALS. 

The  State  of  Virginia  is  especially  rich  in  mineral  resources,  which 
are  still  comparatively  undeveloped.  Gold  is  found  in  Fluvanna, 
Orange,  Spottsylvania,  Goochland,  and  Buckingham  counties,  and  the 


566  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

mines  in  these  regions  can  be  made  to  yield  a  profitable  return.  The 
copper  ore  found  in  Fauquier  county  is  said  to  yield  75  per  cent,  of 
pure  copper.  Coal  and  iron  exist  in  great  quantities.  Immense  beds 
of  bituminous  coal  lie  in  the  neighborhood  of  Richmond  and  in  the 
mountain  regions,  while  anthracite  is  found  in  quantities  in  and 
beyond  the  Valley.  Numerous  salt  springs  exist  in  the  southwestern 
counties  of  the  State,  from  which  large  quantities  of  salt  were  annually 
produced  before  the  late  war.  The  salt  works  were  either  destroyed 
or  greatly  damaged  during  the  war,  so  that  this  branch  of  the  industry 
of  the  State  has  not  fully  recovered  its  importance.  The  other  minerals 
are  lead,  plumbago,  gypsum,  porcelain-clay,  fine  granite,  marble,  slate, 
soapstone,  lime,  water-lime,  and  fire-clay.  The  State  also  abounds 
in  mineral  springs  of  nearly  every  known  variety.  They  are  famous 
among  the  fashionable  summer  resorts  of  the  Union,  and  are  visited 
every  year  by  persons  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 

PRODUCTIONS. 

The  climate,  soil,  and  products  of  the  State  having  been  already 
described  in  the  quotation  from  General  Itnboden's  pamphlet,  it  is 
only  necessary  to  offer  here  a  statement  of  the  principal  agricultural 
products  in  1  866.  The  following  table  is  taken  from  the  report  of 
the  Department  of  Agriculture  for  that  year: 

Bushels  of  Indian  corn, 24,369,908 

wheat, 4,331,364 

4            rye, 698,453 

4             oats, 10,245,156 

buckwheat, 162,686 

4            potatoes, 1,592,166 

Pounds  of  tobacco, 114,480,516 

Tons  of  hay, 203,698 

» 

COMMERCE. 

Previous  to  the  war,  Virginia  was  engaged  in  a  large  and  lucrative 
trade  with  the  States  of  the  Union,  and  had  a  growing  foreign  com- 
merce. Her  tobacco  commanded  a  high  price  in  the  markets  of 
Europe,  and  her  export  of  flour  to  South  America  and  the  West 
Indies  amounted  to  near  200,000  barrels  annually.  Her  oyster  trade 
was  extremely  valuable.  Her  trade  with  Europe,  however,  was  car- 
ried on  mainly  through  the  ports  north  of  her.  The  statistics  for 
1860,  the  year  before  the  war,  include  the  present  State  of  West  Vir- 
ginia, but  we  give  them,  as  there  have  been  no  accurate  returns  since 


VIRGINIA.  56t 


the  close  of  the  struggle.     In   1861,  the  total  exports  of  the  State 
amounted  to  $5,858,024,  and  the  imports  to  $1,326,249. 


MANUFACTURES. 

The  figures  given  below  represent  the  condition  of  Virginia  in 
1860,  and,  of  course,  include  the  present  State  of  West  Virginia.  In 
that  year  there  were  4890  establishments  in  the  State  devoted  to 
manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  They  employed 
36,590  hands  and  a  capital  of  $26,640,000,  consumed  raw  material 
worth  $30,880,000,  and  returned  an  annual  product  of  $51,300/H)0. 
The  value  of  the  principal  products  was  as  follows: 

Cotton  goods, $1,063,611 

Woollen  goods, 809,760 

Leather, 1,218,700 

Pig-iron, 251,173 

Rolled  iron, 1,147,425 

Steam  engines  and  machinery, 1,478,036 

Agricultural  implements, 339,959 

Sawed  and  planed  lumber, 2,540,000 

Flour, 15,210,000 

Salt, 479,000 

Manufactured  tobacco, 12,236,683 

The  manufacturing  interests  of  Virginia  were  almost  fatally  injured 
by  the  war,  and  are  but  slowly  recovering  from  their  reverses.  The 
State  possesses  the  most  abundant  water-power  in  the  world,  and  is 
destined  to  become  one  day  one  of  the  principal  seats  of  American 
manufactures. 
. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  great  rivers  of  the  State  are  navigable  for  a  large  part  of  their 
course,  and  a  fine  canal,  extending  from  Richmond  to  Buchanan,  in 
Bottetourt  county,  beyond  the  Blue  Ridge,  connects  the  mountains 
with  the  sea.  Railroads  extend  through  the  State  in  various  direc- 
tions, connecting  its  various  cities  and  towns  with  the  capital,  and 
with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  Five  lines  centre  in  Richmond,  four  in 
Petersburg,  two  in  Norfolk,  three  in  Lynchburg,  and  three  in  Alex- 
andria. In  1872,  the  State  contained  1416  miles  of  completed  rail- 
road, constructed  at  a  cost  of  $49,975,000.  The  canals  of  the  State 
have  an  aggregate  length  of  about  175  miles. 


568  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

EDUCATION. 

There  is  no  free  school  .system  in  Virginia,  though  a  complete 
system,  including  colored  schools,  will  probably  be  established  during 
the  present  year  (1871).  In  1860,  there  were  23  colleges  in  the 
State,  some  of  which  are  now  in  West  Virginia.  Others  were 
burned. 

The  University  of  Virginia,  at  Charlottes ville,  is  the  principal 
school  in  the  State.  It  was  attended  .by  600  students  in  1860. 
Since  the  close  of  the  war,  it  has  been  reopened,  and  has  regained  a 
large  share  of  its  former  prosperity.  At  present  the  number  of  stu- 
dents is  about  500.  A  student  is  admitted  from  each  Senatorial  dis- 
trict of  the  State,  without  charge  for  matriculation,  tuition,  or  room 
rent,  these  expenses  being  borne  by  the  State.  In  return  for  these 
advantages,  the  student  enjoying  them  is  required  to  teach  in  some 
school  in  the  State  for  a  period  of  two  years  after  his  graduation. 

William  and  Mary  College,  at  Williamsburg,  was  established  in 
1693,  and  liberally  endowed  by  William  and  Mary  of  England.  It 
was  in  successful  operation  until  1860,  and  was  regarded,  next  to  the 
University,  as  the  best  school  in  the  State.  During  the  war,  the 
buildings  and  other  college  property  were  destroyed  by  fire.  Efforts 
are  now  being  made  to  restore  the  institution  to  its  former  condition. 

The  Washington-Lee  University,  at  Lexington,  was  established  as 
an  academy  before  the  Revolution.  In  1798,  it  was  endowed  by 
Washington,  and  reorganized  as  a  college.  It  resumed  its  operations 
after  the  close  of  the  war  under  the  Presidency  of  General  R.  E.  Lee, 
assisted  by  an  excellent  faculty,  and  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  pros- 
perous institutions  in  the  State.  It  was  formerly  known  as  Washing- 
ton College.  After -the  death  of  General  Lee,  in  1870,  it  was  given 
its  present  name. 

Hampden-Sidney  College,  in  Prince  Edward  county,  Randolph- 
Macon  College,  in  Hanover  county,  and  Emory  and  Henry  College,  in 
Washington  county,  are  the  other  collegiate  institutions  in  the  State. 

The  Virginia  Military  Institute,  at  Lexington,  is  entirely  a  State 
institution.  It  was  in  a  high  state  of  prosperity  in  1860,  but  was 
burned  during  the  war.  It  was  reorganized  upon  the  return  of  peace, 
and  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition  again.  It  is  an  admirable 
school,  and  furnishes  its  pupils  with  a  thoroughly  practical,  scientific, 
and  military  training. 


VIRGINIA.  569 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

State  of  Virginia  possesses  a  Penitentiary,  at  Richmond,  an 
Asylum  for  the  Blind,  an  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and  an 
Asylum  for  the  Insane,  at  Staunton,  and  an  Eastern  Asylum  for  the 
Insane,  at  Williamsburg.  No  returns  of  these  institutions  are  at  hand. 

FINANCES. 

The  finances  of  the  State  are  not  in  a  prosperous  condition.  The 
State  debt  is  large  and  increasing,  and  the  interest  thereon  has  not 
been  paid  as  it  accrued.  This  is  attributed  to  the  increased  expenses 
incident  to  the  peculiar  condition  of  affairs  in  the  State,  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  Government  by  the  military  authorities,  and  the  partial 
failure  to  collect  the  revenue.  On  the  1st  of  January,  1871,  the 
amount  of  principal  and  interest  due  by  the  State  was  $47,390,840. 
The  State  holds  about  $10,048,267  of  valuable  assets,  which,  in  a  few 
years,  will  be  available  for  the  reduction  of  the  public  debt,  and  it  is 
believed  that  the  ad  valorem  system  of  taxation  prescribed  by  the 
Constitution  will  produce  an  annual  revenue  more  than  sufficient  to 
meet  the  annual  expenses;  and  now  that  the  control  of  the  State  is 
once  more  in  the  hands  of  its  own  citizens,  it  is  very  certain  that  its 
obligations  will  be  faithfully  met,  and  that  its  time-honored  reputation 
for  integrity  will  suffer  no  stain. 

GOVERNMENT. 

After  the  close  of  the  civil  war,  Virginia  was  kept  under  military 
rule  until  the  early  part  of  1870.  In  the  summer  of  1869,  the  people 
of  the  State,  in  accordance  with  the  provisions  of  the  Reconstruction 
Act,  elected  a  State  Government,  and  the  Legislature  thus  chosen, 
acting  provisionally,  met  at  Richmond  in  October  of  the  same  year. 
Upon  the  reassembling  of  Congress,  after  the  Christmas  holidays,  in 
1869,  measures  were  taken  for  the  readmission  of  the  State  into  the 
Union.  On  the  25th  of  January,  1870,  a  bill,  which  had  passed  both 
Houses  of  Congress,  received  the  Executive  signature.  This  bill  re- 
admitted the  State  under  certain  stringent  conditions,  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  was  a  guarantee  on  the  part  of  the  State  never  to  alter 
its  Constitution  so  as  to  deprive  negroes  of  the  right  of  suffrage,  nor 
to  pass  laws  depriving  negroes  of  the  right  to  hold  office,  or  of  their 
school  privileges.  On  the  27th  of  January,  General  Canby,  the  mili- 


570  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

tary  commander  of  the  department,  transferred  the  government  of 
the  State  to  the  civil  authorities.  The  Legislature  met,  at  the  call  of 
the  Governor,  on  the  8th  of  February,  1870. 

By  the  terms  of  the  new  Constitution  adopted  in  1869,  the  right  of 
suffrage  is  secured  to  every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States  of  the 
age  of  21  years,  who  has  been  a  resident  of  the  State  for  one  year,  and 
of  the  county,  city,  or  town,  three  months  next  preceding  the  election 
at  which  he  desires  to  cast  his  vote. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  Governor,  and  Lieutenant-Governor 
(who  is  ex-officio  the  President  of  the  Senate),  elected  by  the  people 
for  four  years,  and  a  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor,  Second 
Auditor,  and.  Register  of  the  Land  Office,  elected  by  joint  ballot  of 
the  two  Houses  of  the  Legislature.  The  Legislature  consists  of  a 
Senate  of  43  members,  and  a  House  of  Delegates  of  181  members. 
The  two  Houses  are  styled  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Common- 
wealth of  Virginia. 

The  highest  judicial  body  is  the  Supreme  Court  of  Appeals.  It 
consists  of  five  judges,  chosen  for  a  term  of  12  years.  There  are  16 
Circuit  Courts,  the  judges  of  which  hold  office  for  8  years.  The  State 
is  divided  into  82  districts,  for  each  of  which  a  county  judge  is  elected. 
The  courts  of  the  cities  have  their  separate  judges.  The  term  of  office 
of  the  county  and  city  judges  is  3  years.  All  the  judges  of  the  State 
are  chosen  by  a  concurrent  vote  of  the  two  Houses  of  the  General  As- 
sembly. Elections  for  township  and  city  officers  are  held  on  the 
fourth  Thursday  in  May,  and  elections  for  State  officers  and  members 
of  Congress  on  the  first  Tuesday  after  the  first  Monday  in  November. 

The  State  makes  a  liberal  provision  for  the  cause  of  education,  and 
measures  are  now  in  progress  for  the  establishment  of  a  free  school 
system. 

Richmond,  in  Henrico  county,  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  For 
purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  99  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Virginia  was  the  first  settled  of  the  English  colonies.  On  the  1 3th 
of  May,  1607,  a  party  of  105  settlers,  sent  out  by  the  London  Com- 
pany, to  whom  James  I.  had  given  a  charter  for  South  Virginia, 
settled  on  the  north  bank  of  the  James  River,  and  founded  the  town 
of  Jamestown.  This  colony  was  composed  of  worthless  adventurers, 
and  came  in  search  of  gold,  which,  of  course,  was  not  found.  It  was 


VIRGINIA.  571 

nominally  under  the  control  of  Captain  Newport,  but  its  real  leader 
was  the  celebrated  Captain  John  Smith,  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
men  of  that  period.  Nothing  but  his  energy  and  firmness  prevented 
the  colony  from  becoming  a  disastrous  failure.  In  1609,  the  powers 
of  the  London  Company  were  greatly  enlarged,  and  the  government 
of  the  colony  placed  in  its  hands.  Additional  emigrants  were  sent 
out  to  Virginia,  to  the  number  of  about  500  persons,  and  Lord  Dela- 
ware was  appointed  Governor.  The  settlers  were  greatly  harassed 
by  the  savages,  and  suifered  much  from  privation  and  famine,  and  in 
1610  were  reduced  to  only  60  souls,  with  scarcely  food  enough  to  last 
them  ten  days.  They  were  reinforced  at  this  juncture  by  the  arrival 
of  Newport,  Gates,  and  Somers,  with  150  men,  who  had  been  wrecked 
upon  the  Bermudas,  on  their  passage  from  England.  They  expected 
to  find  the  colony  in  a  prosperous  condition,  and  were  so  discouraged 
by  the  state  of  affairs  at  Jamestown,  that  they  took  the  remnant  of 
the  colonists  on  board,  and  started  down  the  river,  intending  to  sail 
for  Newfoundland,  where  they  hoped  to  be  able  to  take  passage  to 
England  in  some  of  the  fishing  vessels.  Upon  reaching  the  mouth 
of  the  James,  they  were  met  by  Lord  Delaware,  the  Governor,  who 
had  arrived  from  England  with  three  ships,  with  supplies  and  addi- 
tional colonists ;  and  the  whole  party  returned  to  Jamestown. 

Virginia  now  grew  rapidly.  The  settlement  at  Jamestown  was 
placed  beyond  all  danger  of  failure;  the  Indians  were  punished  for 
their  attacks  on  the  early  settlers;  and  additional  villages  were 
founded.  In  1619,  1200  colonists  were  sent  over,  including  90  re- 
spectable young  women,  who  were  sold  to  the  planters  as  wives,  for 
100  pounds  of  tobacco  (worth  $75),  the  price  of  their  passage  from 
England.  One  hundred  felons  were  also  sent  over  from  the  English 
prisons,  by  the  express  order  of  the  king,  and  sold  to  the  colonists  as 
slaves.  In  the  same  year,  a  Dutch  trading  ship  anchored  in  the 
James,  and  sold  a  number  of  negro  slaves  to  the  planters,  thus  intro- 
ducing African  slavery  into  the  New  World.  The  colony  continued 
to  thrive,  and  in  1649,  contained  15,000  white  inhabitants,  and  300 
negroes.  About  30  ships  came  yearly  to  trade,  and  there  were  nearly 
30,000  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  goats,  swine,  and  asses  within  its  limits. 

During  the  great  civil  war  in  England,  Virginia  remained  faithful 
to  the  king,  and  continued  to  maintain  its  loyalty,  in  spite  of  the 
efforts  of  the  Parliament  to  win  it  over,  until  1652,  when  it  submitted 
to  the  Commissioners  of  the  Commonwealth  upon  terms  which  were 
all  that  the  colony  could  have  desired.  On  the  restoration  of  Charles 


572  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

II.,  Sir  William  Berkeley,  the  leader  of  the  Stuart  party  in  the  pro- 
vince, returned  to  Virginia,  and  was  reflected  Governor.  Charles 
granted  many  unjust  privileges  to  his  favorites,  who  oppressed  the 
people  of  Virginia  so  sorely,  being  assisted  in  their  oppressions  by  the 
Governor,  that  a  portion  of  the  people  of  the  colony  took  up  arms  to 
maintain  their  ancient  rights.  They  were  conquered  by  the  Governor, 
who  treated  the  vanquished  party  with  such  cruelty  that  he  was 
severely  rebuked  hy  the  king.  This  struggle  is  generally  known  as 
"Bacon's  Rebellion,"  from  Nathaniel  Bacon,  the  military  leader  of 
the  so-called  rebels. 

In  1698,  the  town  of  Williamsburg  was  built,  and  named  in  honor 
of  William  III.  The  country  around  Jamestown  being  marshy  and 
sickly,  the  seat  of  government  was  removed  to  Williamsburg.  The 
original  settlement  at  once  fell  into  decay,  and  at  present  only  a  ruined 
church  tower  marks  the  site. 

Virginia  bore  a  prominent  part  in  the  wars  with  France.  The  war 
of  1754  originated  in  the  efforts  of  the  colony  to  break  up  the  line 
of  military  posts  which  the  French  were  establishing  along  the  Ohio 
River.  This  struggle  first  brought  into  notice  a  young  surveyor, 
George  Washington,  who  acquired  in  it  a  reputation  and  experience, 
which  made  him  the  foremost  soldier  in  the  Province. 

In  1764  the  General  Assembly  of  Virginia  made  an  energetic  and 
spirited  protest  against  the  claim  on  the  part  of  the  English  Crown 
to  tax  the  colonies  without  their  consent.  The  colony  was  not 
represented  in  the  first  Continental  Congress  which  met  in  New  York, 
in  October,  1765,  the  Legislature  having  adjourned  before  the  invita- 
tion of  Massachusetts  was  received ;  but  the  measures  of  that  body 
were  cordially  endorsed  at  the  next  session  of  the  Legislature,  and 
throughout  the  whole  struggle,  Virginia  and  Massachusetts  were  the 
leading  and  most  influential  members  of  the  colonial  union.  All  the 
leading  measures  of  resistance  were  originated  by  one  or  the  other  of 
these  provinces.  The  Royal  Governor,  Lord  Dun  more,  endeavored 
to  check  the  efforts  of  the  people,  and  was  driven  out  of  the  capital, 
and  forced  to  seek  refuge  on  board  a  British  man-of-war.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  capturing  the  town  of  Norfolk,  but  was  finally  driven  out 
of  it,  after  which  he  bombarded  it  from  his  ships.  During  the 
summer  of  1776,  he  continued  to  ravage  the  coast,  but  was  finally 
driven  southward.  In  1779,  the  British  General  Mathews  captured 
and  destroyed  the  town  of  Norfolk,  took  the  villages  of  Portsmouth 
and  Gosport,  and  destroyed  several  ships  of  war  in  course  of  construe- 


VIRGINIA.  .  573 

tion  there,  and  burned  or  captured  130  merchant  vessels  in  the 
vicinity.  In  1781,  Benedict  Arnold,  the  traitor,  captured  and  burned 
the  village  of  Richmond,  but  being  hotly  pressed  by  the  American 
and  French  forces,  retreated  to  the  lower  James,  and  reembarked  for 
Newport,  Rhode  Island.  A  few  months  later,  Cornwallis  and 
Phillips  entered  eastern  Virginia,  and  swept  it  with  fire  and  sword, 
destroying  and  stealing  $10,000,000  worth  of  property.  These  out- 
rages were  partially  avenged  by  the  capture  of  Cornwallis'  army  at 
Yorktown,  on  the  19th  of  October,  1781.  During  the  war,  Virginia 
furnished  her  full  share  of  men  and  means  to  the  cause,  besides  con- 
tributing to  it  many  of  its  great  leaders.  She  gave  to  it,  George 
Washington,  Thomas  Jefferson,  James  Madison,  Patrick  Henry, 
Richard  Henry  Lee,  and  many  other  good  and  great  men. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  war,  Virginia  was  the  first  to  propose  a 
Confederation  of  the  States,  and  at  its  close,  perceiving  that  the  system 
of  Government  in  force  was  not  suited  to  the  necessities  of  the  country, 
was  the  first  to  propose  a  Convention  for  the  purpose  of  remedying  its 
defects.  This  Convention  met  at  Philadelphia,  in  1787,  and  finally 
adopted  the  present  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  which  was 
principally  the  production  of  James  Madison,  of  Virginia.  It  was 
ratified  by  Virginia  on  the  25th  of  June,  1788,  after  encountering  a 
strong  opposition  in  the  State  Convention,  led  by  Patrick  Henry  and 
George  Mason. 

The  State,  in  1784,  ceded  to  the  United  States  its  territory  north- 
west of  the  Ohio  river,  which  has  since  been  organized  into  the  states 
of  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  and  Wisconsin.  The  present 
State  of  Kentucky  also  formed  a  part  of  the  original  State  of  Virginia, 
and  was  erected  into  a  separate  Territory,  in  1789. 

During  the  war  of  1812-15,  the  shores  of  the  Chesapeake  and  its 
tributaries  were  ravaged  by  the  British,  and  in  1814,  the  city  of 
Alexandria  was  captured  by  them.  During  this  struggle  Virginia 
again  gave  a  great  soldier  to  the  country,  in  the  person  of  Winfield 
Scott,  who,  with  Zachary  Taylor,  also  led  the  American  armies  to 
victory  in  the  war  with  Mexico. 

In  1831  a  serious  insurrection  occurred,  under  the  leadership  of 
Nat  Turner,  among  the  negroes  of  Southampton  county.  It  was 
suppressed  and  the  leaders  were  executed,  but  not  before  a  number 
of  whites  had  been  massacred. 

In  1859,  the  state  was  invaded  at  Harper's  Ferry  by  John  Brown 
and  his  adherents,  the  details  of  which  event  have  already  been  given 
iu  another  chapter. 


5U  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Upon  the  secession  of  the  Southern  States,  Virginia  made  great 
efforts  to  secure  a  peaceful  solution  of  the  troubles  between  the  sections  ; 
but  failing  to  accomplish  this,  withdrew  from  the  Union,  and  joined 
the  seceded  States.  Richmond  was  made  the  capital  of  the  new  Con- 
federacy, and  the  Confederate  forces  were  transferred  to  Virginia, 
which  was  thus  made  the  theatre  of  war.  The  events  of  this  unhappy 
struggle  are  too  well  known  to  need  repetition  here.  It  is  sufficient 
to  say  that  this  State  was  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  important 
events  of  the  war.  Seven  Federal  armies  were  defeated,  and  over 
thirty  pitched  battles,  besides  numerous  minor  conflicts,  were  fought 
on  its  Soil.  Finally  Richmond  and  Petersburg  were  captured  by  the 
Union  army,  and  General  Lee,  the  great  military  leader  of  the  South, 
was  made  a  prisoner  with  all  his  troops. 

Virginia  seceded  from  the  Union  on  the  17th  of  April,  1861,  and 
on  the  23d  of  May,  the  ordinance  of  secession  was  ratified  by  a  popu- 
lar vote  of  90,000.  The  people  of  the  Western  counties  were  opposed 
to  this  action,  and  being  determined  not  to  be  forced  out  of  the  Union 
by  the  action  of  Eastern  Virginia,  summoned  a  convention,  which  met 
at  Wheeling  in  June,  1861,  and  formed  the  new  State  of  West  Vir- 
ginia, which  now  includes  that  portion  of  the  old  State  lying  between 
the  Alleghany  Mountains  and  the  Ohio  river.* 

After  the  close  of  the  war,  the  State  was  subjected  to  the  process  of 
reconstruction,  and  until  January  26th,  1870,  was  governed  by  a 
military  commander. 

Virginia  was  greatly  impoverished  by  the  war.  Her  manufactures 
were  almost  totally  destroyed,  and  her  agriculture  crippled  to  a  very 
great  degree.  The  State  is  now  slowly  recovering  from  the  effects 
of  these  disasters.  Now  that  slavery  has  been  abolished,  Virginia 
offers  so  many  inducements  to  settlers  from  other  States  and  from 
Europe,  and  such  great  advantages  to  capitalists,  in  its  water-power 
and  mineral  resources,  that  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  a  few  years 
more  will  see  her  embarked  in  a  career  of  industry  and  prosperity, 
which  will  far  exceed  anything  in  her  past  career. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Norfolk, 
Petersburg,  Alexandria,  Lynchburg,  Portsmouth,  Winchester,  Fred- 

*  For  a  more  complete  account  of  this  separation,  see  West  Virginia. 


VIRGINIA.  575 

ericksburg,  Leesburg,  Danville,  Farmville,  Lexington,  Charlottes- 
ville,  Salem,  Liberty,  Christiansburg,  Staunton,  and  Wytheville. 

RICHMOND, 

The  capital  and  the  largest  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Henrico 
county,  on  the  northeast  bank  of  the  James  River,  at  the  head  of 
tide-water.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  lower  falls  of  the  James,  and  is 
about  184  miles  from  the  sea  by  the  course  of  the  river,  and  100  miles 
in  an  air-line  south-by-west  from  Washington.  Latitude  37°  32'  11" 
K,  longitude  77°  27'  28"  W. 

Richmond  is  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  in  the  Union,  and  its 
situation  is  much  admired  for  its  romantic  beauty.  The  city  is  built 
on  several  hills,  which  are  separated  from  each  other  by  a  picturesque 
valley,  through  which  flows  Shockoe  Creek.  The  principal  are 
Shockoe  and  Church  or  Richmond  hills.  From  any  of  these  elevations 
a  magnificent  prospect  may  be  gained,  embracing  the  beautiful  country 
around  the  city,  and  the  noble  river  winding  among  its  green  hills,  and 
leaping  and  dashing  over  the  rocks  which  break  its  current  for  a  dis- 
tance of  several  miles.  Three  fine  bridges  span  the  stream  at  inter- 
vals of  from  100  yards  to  half  a  mile  apart.  Two  are  used  by  rail- 
ways entering  the  city,  and  connecting  it  with  the  States  south  of  Vir- 
ginia. The  other  is  for  vehicles  and  pedestrians. 

Richmond  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity,  in  perfect  squares.  The 
streets  are  broad,  straight,  and  well  paved,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  the  business  thoroughfares,  are  shaded  with  fine  trees.  The  city  is 
built  generally  of  brick  and  stone,  and  the  most  of  the  houses  are 
situated  in  yards  adorned  with  flowers  and  shrubbery.  The  principal 
business  thoroughfare,  Main  street,  runs  throughout  the  length  of  the 
city,  and  with  the  exception  of  the  upper  and  lower  portions,  is  one 
of  the  best-built  streets  in  the  Union.  Broad  street,  parallel  with 
Main,  is  a  noble  thoroughfare,  and  is  occupied  principally  with  retail 
stores.  The  general  appearance  of  the  city  is  handsome  and  attractive. 
The  long  streets,  or  those  running  parallel  with  the  river,  are  named. 
Those  crossing  them  at  right-angles  are  numbered. 

The  public  buildings  are  handsome.  The  Capitol  is  the  most  con- 
spicuous object  in  the  city.  It  stands  on  Shockoe  Hill,  in  the  midst 
of  a  handsome  square  of  10  acres.  It  is  an  imposing  building,  and  is 
adorned  with  a  portico  of  Ionic  columns.  It  contains  a  marble  statue 
of  Washington,  by  Houdon,  the  famous  French  sculptor.  To  the 
west  of  the  Capitol,  and  within  the  enclosure  of  the  Capitol  Square, 


5T6 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


RICHMOND. 


is  the  monument  erected  to  Washington  by  the  State  of  Virginia.  It 
contains  an  equestrian  statue  of  Washington,  by  Crawford,  and  statues 
of  Jefferson,  Mason,  Henry,  Marshal,  Lee,  and  Morgan,  by  Crawford 
and  Randolph  Rogers.  The  monument  is  of  fine  granite ;  the  statues 
are  of  bronze.  To  the  south  of  the  Washington  monument  stands  a  fine 
marble  statue  of  Henry  Clay.  The  Governor's  Mansion,  a  fine  old- 
fashioned  edifice,  occupies  the  northeast  portion  of  the  square.  The 
City  Hall  is  an  elegant  structure  on  Broad  and  Capitol  streets,  oppo- 
site the  square.  The  Custom  House  extends  from  Main  to  Bank 
street,  immediately  south  of  the  Capitol.  It  is  an  elegant  building 
of  granite,  and  contains,  besides  the  customs  offices,  the  city  post-office, 
and  the  United  States  Court-rooms.  During  the  civil  war,  the  build- 
ing was  occupied  by  the  Executive,  State  and  Treasury  Departments 
of  the  Confederate  Government.  The  Confederate  Congress  sat  in 
the  Capitol. 


VIRGINIA.  577 

The  public  schools  are  good,  though  few  in  number.  The  city  also 
contains  the  Richmond  College,  conducted  by  the  Baptist  church ;  St. 
Vincent's  College,  a  Roman  Catholic  institution ;  and  the  Medical  De- 
partment of  Hampden-Sydney  College,  the  last  of  which  occupies  a  fine 
granite  building  of  Egyptian  architecture.  There  are  a  number  of 
excellent  private  schools  and  seminaries  in  the  city,  which  has  always 
been  celebrated  for  its  schools  of  this  character.  The  Virginia  His- 
torical Society  possesses  a  fine  library.  The  State  Library  is  in  the 
Capitol.  There  are  several  colored  schools  in  the  city. 

There  are  over  30  churches  in  Richmond,  some  of  which  are  very 
handsome.  St.  John's,  on  Church  Hill,  is  interesting  from  its  histori- 
cal associations. 

The  Penal  establishments  are  the  City  Prison  and  the  State  Peniten- 
tiary. The  latter  is  situated  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  river,  and  is  a 
large  edifice  of  brick  with  a  tirade  nearly  300  feet  in  length. 

The  Benevolent  establishments  are  numerous,  and  consist  of  a  city 
Alms-house,  the  Bellevue  Hospital,  the  Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asy- 
lum, and  several  societies  for  the  assistance  of  the  poor  and  distressed. 

The  Cemeteries  are  Holy  wood  and  Shockoe  Hill.  The  former  is 
very  beautiful.  In  the  latter  are  buried  some  of  the  most  distin- 
guished men  of  the  country. 

Richmond  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water  from  the 
James  River.  Street  railways  connect  its  principal  points.  It  is  pro- 
vided with  an  efficient  police  force,  and  a  steam  fire  department,  and 
is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  has  always  been  a  place 
of  great  political  and  commercial  importance,  and  is  noted  for  the 
culture  and  hospitality  of  its  people.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
51,038. 

Richmond  is  admirably  situated  for  commerce  and  manufactures. 
It  lies  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  regions  of  the 
Union,  and  has  railway  connections  with  all  parts  of  the  country. 
The  James  River  and  Kanawha  Canal  afford  water  transportation  to 
the  very  heart  of  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains  and  the  Valley  of  Vir- 
ginia. The  river  is  navigable  to  the  city  for  vessels  drawing  10  feet 
of  water,  and  those  drawing  15  feet  can  lie  within  3  miles  of  the  city. 
There  is  regular  communication  by  steamers  with  Norfolk,  Baltimore, 
Philadelphia,  and  New  York.  The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railway 
is  now  completed  across  the  mountains,  and  will  soon  be  finished  to 
the  Ohio  River.  The  city  is  one  of  the  most  important  tobacco  and 
wheat  markets  in  the  Union,  and  is  one  of  the  principal  seats  of  the 
37 


578  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

manufacture  of  tobacco,  which  is  exported  in  large  quantities  to  the 
Northern  cities  for  sale. 

Richmond  is  already  largely  engaged  in  manufactures,  find  is  des- 
tined to  become  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing  centres  of 
America.  It  is  already  famous  for  its  flour,  its  mills  being  among 
the  most  extensive  in  the  country.  Cotton  and  woollen  goods,  paper 
and  iron  ware  are  produced  in  considerable  quantities.  The  water- 
power  is  derived  from  the  James  River,  which  in  the  course  of  a  few 
miles  descends  100  feet,  thus  furnishing  an  amount  of  power  sufficient 
to  turn  all  the  mills  of  New  England.  The  water  is  never  too  low 
to  be  used.  The  civil  war  struck  a  terrible  blow  at  the  manufactur- 
ing interests  of  Richmond,  but  the  city  is  slowly  recovering  its  former 
prosperity.  Five  daily  papers,  and  a  number  of  weeklies  and  month- 
lies are  published  in  the  city. 

Richmond  was  founded  in  1742;  and  in  1779,  while  still  but  a 
small  village,  was  made  the  capital  of  the  State.  In  1781,  it  was 
invaded  and  occupied  by  the  British,  under  the  command  of  Benedict 
Arnold.  The  invaders  burned  some  public  and  some  private  build- 
ings, and  a  quantity  of  tobacco,  and  retreated  towards  the  lower  James. 
In  1789,  the  place  contained  300  houses,  and  a  bridge  was  built  across 
the  river  by  Colonel  John  Mayo.  In  1800,  it  contained  5737  inhabi- 
tants. It  was  from  the  first  a  place  of  great  political  importance,  ex- 
ercising a  considerable  influence  over  the  country  south  of  Virginia 
as  well  as  over  that  State.  After  the  secession  of  the  Southern  States 
and  the  beginning  of  hostilities  in  April,  1861,  Richmond  was  made 
the  Capital  of  the  Confederacy,  the  Southern  Government  arriving 
there  in  June,  1861.  From  that  time  the  city  was  the  chief  object 
of  the  efforts  of  the  military  forces  of  the  United  States.  It  was  de- 
fended with  great  skill  and  determination,  but  was  finally  entered  by 
the  United  States  forces,  on  the  2d  of  April,  1865.  It  was  set  on  fire 
by  the  Confederate  forces  on  the  night  of  their  departure  from  it,  and 
almost  the  entire  business  quarter,  including  the  large  mills,  etc.,  was 
destroyed.  Since  then,  it  has  been  rebuilt  on  a  handsomer  and  more 
substantial  scale. 

NORFOLK, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Norfolk  county,  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Elizabeth  River,  8  miles  from  Hampton  Roads,  32 
miles  from  the  ocean,  and  160  miles  by  water,  or  106  miles  by  land, 
from  Richmond. 


VIRGINIA.  579 

The  city  is  built  principally  of  brick  and  stone,  on  a  level  plain, 
and  is  somewhat  irregular  in  its  plan.  The  streets  are  wide  and  are 
well  paved,  but  the  general  appearance  of  the  place  is  unattractive. 
There  are,  however,  many  fine  stores  and  handsome  dwellings,  and  of 
late  the  appearance  of  the  city  is  being  gradually  improved.  The 
City  Hall  and  the  Custom  House  are  the  principal  buildings.  The 
city  contains  14  churches,  a  number  of  excellent  schools,  public  and 
private,  and  a  hospital.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a 
Mayor  and  Council. 

Norfolk  possesses  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world.  It  is 
easily  reached  from  the  sea,  and  vessels  of  the  largest  size  can  lie 
alongside  the  wharves.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  defended  by  the 
works  at  and  near  Fortress  Monroe,  which  also  command  the  entrance 
to  Hampton  Roads.  The  Dismal  Swamp  Canal  connects  the  Eliza- 
beth River  with  Albemarle  Sound.  A  very  extensive  trade  in  grain, 
fruits,  and  lumber  is  carried  on  by  means  of  this  canal,  which  is  navi- 
gable for  schooners.  A  railway  connects  the  city  with  Petersburg, 
Lynchburg,  and  the  southwest,  and  regular  lines  of  steamers  and 
steamships  ply  between  Norfolk  and  Richmond,  Baltimore,  Philadel- 
phia, New  York,  and  Boston.  The  foreign  trade  of  the  city  is  grow- 
ing rapidly.  Its  coasting  trade  is  very  great.  An  enormous  traffic 
in  market  garden  produce,  fruits,  eggs,  etc.,  is  maintained  with  the 
Northern  Cities,  the  vicinity  of  Norfolk  being  devoted  almost  exclu- 
sively to  truck  farms.  The  trade  in  oysters  and  fish  is  also  heavy. 

Portsmoutli,  in  the  same  county,  lies  immediately  opposite  Norfolk, 
and  is  separated  from  it  by  the  Elizabeth  River.  It  is  the  terminus 
of  a  railway  to  Weldon,  N.  C.,  and  the  far  South.  Previous  to  the 
war  it  was  the  principal  naval  station  of  the  Republic,  and  was  pro- 
vided with  one  of  the  largest  and  most  complete  navy  yards  in  the 
world.  These  works  were  abandoned  and  destroyed  by  the  United 
States  authorities  upon  the  secession  of  Virginia.  It  is  doubtful 
whether  they  will  ever  be  rebuilt  upon  as  complete  a  scale.  Ferry- 
boats connect  the  city  with  Norfolk. 

The  war  greatly  injured  the  prospects  of  both  cities,  but  they  are 
gradually  recovering  from  their  losses.  The  foreign  trade  of  Norfolk 
promises  to  increase  rapidly,  while  the  situation  of  the  city  will  always 
throw  into  its  hands  a  large  coasting  trade. 

In  1870  the  population  of  Norfolk  was  19,256.  That  of  Ports- 
mouth was  10,492. 

Norfolk  was  laid  out  in  1705,  and  named  from  the  county  of  that 


580  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

name  in  England.  In  1736,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  borough;  in 
1776,  it  was  burned  by  the  British,  and  in  1845  it  was  incorporated 
as  a  city.  In  May,  1861,  it  was  occupied  and  fortified  by  the  Con- 
federates, and  in  May,  1862,  was  captured  by  the  United  States  forces, 
who  held  it  until  the  close  of  the  war. 

PETERSBURG, 

The  third  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Dinwiddie  county,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Appomattox  River,  10  miles  from  the  junction  of 
that  stream  with  the  James  River  at  City  Point,  and  22  miles  south  of 
Richmond.  It  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railway, 
and  by  railway  with  City  Point,  where  the  large  vessels  -trading  with 
the  city  discharge  their  cargoes.  The  city  can  be  reached  by  vessels 
of  100  tons. 

Petersburg  possesses  a  large  trade  in  flour  and  tobacco,  and  is  to  a 
limited  extent  engaged  in  manufactures,  the  falls  of  the  river,  situated 
above  the  town,  furnishing  an  enormous  water-power.  A  canal  has 
been  cut  around  these  falls,  above  which  small  boats  can  ascend  the 
river  for  about  100  miles. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  off,  and  is  well  built.  It  contains  a  num- 
ber of  handsome  buildings,  public  and  private ;  several  fine  schools, 
including;  a  large  female  college,  about  12  churches,  and  3  newspaper 
offices.  It  includes  the  village  of  Blandford,  in  Prince  George  county. 
It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Appomat- 
tox, and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  The  city  was  severely 
injured  by  the  bombardment  to  which  it  was  subjected  during  the 
civil  war.  In  1870  the  population  was  18,950. 

Petersburg  was  founded  by  Act  of  the  General  Assembly  in  1748, 
nnd  was  named  after  Peter  Jones,  the  first  settler  on  the  spot.  In 
1752,  a  bridge  was  built  over  the  Appomattox.  In  April,  1781,  a 
British  force  under  General  Phillips,  2300  strong,  landed  at  City 
Point,  and  advanced  upon  the  city,  defeating  a  small  force  of  militia 
under  Baron  Steuben,  which  sought  to  oppose  their  progress,  and  cap- 
tured the  town,  to  which  they  did  considerable  damage.  They  held 
Petersburg  for  about  24  hours.  In  May,  of  the  same  year,  the  town 
was  occupied  by  Cornwallis'  army.  In  1784,  the  place  became  a  city, 
and  the  towns  of  Blandford,  Pocahontas,  and  Ravenscrofts  were  united 
with  it. 

In  the  summer  of  1864,  General  Grant  crossed  the  James  River 
with  his  army,  and  laid  siege  to  Petersburg,  continuing  at  the  same 


VIRGINIA.  531 

time  his  demonstrations  against  Richmond.  The  siege  was  continued 
until  April,  1865,  when  the  Confederates,  after  a  series  of  severe  bat- 
tles, were  compelled  to  abandon  their  position  around  both  cities.  The 
retreat  which  ensued  terminated  in  the  surrender  of  the  army  of 
General  Lee,  which  practically  closed  the  war.  During  the  siege 
Petersburg  was  frequently  cannonaded,  and  was  severely  injured. 

ALEXANDRIA, 

The  fourth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Alexandria  county,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Potomac  River,  7  miles  below  Washington  City, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam  ferry  and  a  railway.  The  city  is 
delightfully  situated  on  undulating  ground,  and  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  river  and  of  Washington  City.  It  is  substantially  built,  and 
possesses  some  handsome  buildings,  but  its  general  appearance  is  that 
of  a  quiet  inland  town.  The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  angles, 
and  are  generally  well  paved.  Some  of  them  are  shaded  with  mag- 
nificent trees.  The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  Cameron's  Run, 
a  small  stream  close  by,  and  is  lighted  with  gas.  It  contains  several 
public  and  private  schools,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  Theological  Seminary 
and  of  a  High  School  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church.  There  are 
about  12  churches,  and  3  newspaper  offices  in  the  city.  It  is  governed 
by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  13,570. 

Alexandria  was  once  a  place  of  considerable  commercial  importance, 
and  possessed  a  large  foreign  and  domestic  trade.  Some  shipping  is 
still  owned  in  the  port.  The  river  furnishes  unlimited  water  trans- 
portation to  the  sea,  which  is  continued  to  the  mountains  by  the 
Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal,  and  there  is  railway  communication 
with  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  city  seemed  on  the  point  of  recov- 
ering some  share  of  its  former  importance  when' the  civil  war  put  an 
end  to  its  hopes. 

Alexandria  was  settled  in  1748,  and  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in 
1779.  In  1801  it  was  ceded  with  other  territory  to  the  General 
Government,  and  constituted  a  part  of  the  District  of  Columbia  until 
1844,  when  it  was  restored  to  the  State  of  Virginia.  In  the  spring 
of  1861  it  was  occupied  by  the  United  States  forces,  and  was  held  by 
them  during  the  war. 

Eight  miles  below  Alexandria,  on  the  same  side  of  the  Potomac, 
and  within  the  limits  of  Fairfax  county,  is  Mount  Vernon,  the  resi- 
dence and  the  site  of  the  grave  of  George  Washington.  A  few  years 
previous  to  the  civil  war  it  was  purchased  from  the  Washington 


582 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC 


MOUNT  VEBNON. 

family  by  a  fund  raised  through  the  efforts  of  Edward  Everett  and 
others,  and  made  the  property  of  the  nation.  During  the  civil  war 
it  lay  between  the  lines  of  the  two  armies,  each  of  which  scrupulously 
respected  it. 

"  Mount  Vernon,  then  known  as  the  Hunting  Creek  estate,  was 
bequeathed  by  Augustine  Washington,  who  died  in  1743,  to  Law- 
rence Washington,  who  received  a  captain's  commission  in  one  of  the 
four  regiments  raised  in  the  colonies,  to  aid  the  mother  country  in 
her  struggle  against  France  and  Spain,  It  was  named  after  Admiral 
Yernon,  under  whom  Lawrence  Washington  had  served,  and  for 
whom  he  cherished  a  strong  affection.  The  central  part  of  the  man- 
sion, which  is  of  wood,  was  erected  by  Lawrence,  and  the  wings  by 
George  Washington.  It  contains  many  valuable  historical  relics, 
among  which  are  the  key  of  the  Bastile,  presented  by  Lafayette,  portions 
of  the  military  and  personal  furniture  of  Washington,  the  pitcher, 
portrait,  etc.  The  tomb  of  Washington,  which  is  now  fast  going  to 
decay,  occupies  a  more  picturesque  situation  than  the  present  one, 
being  upon  an  elevation  in  full  view  of  the  river.  The  new  tomb, 


VIRGINIA.  583 

into  which  the  remains  were  removed  iu  1837,  and  subsequently 
placed  within  a  marble  sarcophagus,  stands  in  a  more  retired  situa- 
tion, a  short  distance  from  the  house.  It  consists  of  a  plain  but  solid 
structure  of  brick,  with  an  iron  gate  at  its  entrance.  Above  the  area 
of  this  vault  are  inscribed  the  following  lines : 

4  Within  this  enclosure  rest  the  remains  of 
GENERAL  GEOKGE  WASHINGTON.' 

"The  Mount  Yernon  domain,  which  has  remained  since  the  death 
of  Washington  in  the  possession  of  his  descendants,  was  purchased  a 
few  years  ago  for  the  sum  of  $200,000,  raised  by  subscription,  under 
the  auspices  of  a  society  of  ladies  known  as  the  l  Ladies'  Mount  Ver- 
non  Union  Association/  It  is  therefore,  and  will  continue  to  be,  the 
property  of  the  nation.  In  this  noble  movement  the  late  Hon.  Ed- 
ward Everett  took  a  distinguished  and  active  part." 

LYNCHBURG, 

The  fifth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Campbell  county,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  James  River,  120  miles  west-southwest  of  Rich- 
mond, and  20  miles  from  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  built  along  a  steep 
declivity,  which  rises  from  the  river  shore,  and  is  situated  in  a  beau- 
tiful and  picturesque  country.  It  is  irregularly  laid  off,  but  contains 
several  handsome  buildings.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied 
with  water  from  the  river,  which  is  pumped  into  a  reservoir  situated 
253  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river. 

Lynchburg  is  one  of  the  principal  railway  centres  of  the  State, 
being  the  junction  of  roads  leading  directly  from  Norfolk,  Richmond, 
\Yashington  City,  and  Bristol,  Tennessee.  It  is  connected  with 
Richmond  by  the  James  River  Canal.  These  roads  and  the  canal 
have  made  it  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  It  is  one  of  the  principal 
tobacco  markets  of  the  State,  and  has  also  a  large  grain  trade.  Large 
quantities  of  tobacco  are  manufactured  here.  The  city  is,  to  a  limited 
extent,  engaged  in  manufactures,  the  river  affording  extensive  water- 
power.  Tobacco,  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  and  flour  are  the  princi- 
pal articles. 

The  city  contains  10  churches,  several  public  and  private  schools, 
and  3  newspaper  offices. 

It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population 
was  6825. 

Lynchburg  was  founded  in  1786,  and  named  after  John  Lynch,  one 
of  the  original  settlers.  In  1805  it  was  incorporated  as  a  city. 


584  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

MISCELLANIES. 
THE   FIRST  LEGISLATIVE   ASSEMBLY   IN   AMERICA. 

One  of  the  first  acts  of  Yeardley,  in  Virginia,  was  to  emancipate  the  remaining 
servants  of  the  colony.  The  labor  now  being  free,  each  man  enjoying  the  fruits 
of  his  own  industry,  and  anxious  to  increase  his  store,  there  was  no  fear  of 
scarcity,  and  no  time  or  opportunity  for  mutiny  among  the  scattered  and  indus- 
trious planters.  With  the  increasing  strength  and  independence  of  the  colony, 
all  fear  of  the  savages  had  vanished.  It  is  manifest  that  in  these  altered  circum- 
stances a  modification  of  the  despotic  government  ought  to  have  been  made,  be- 
cause its  severity  was  no  longer  necessary,  and  while  the  power  existed  it  might 
be  abused,  as  the  colony  seriously  experienced  in  the  case  of  Argall.  The  mo- 
ment the  colonists  began  to  take  an  interest  in  the  country,  by  the  enjoyment  of 
their  own  labor  and  the  possession  of  property,  it  was  right  that  they  should  have 
some  share  in  that  government,  in  the  prudent  conduct  of  which  they  were  most 
interested.  Yeardley  was  aware  of  this,  for,  without  any  authority  from  home 
which  we  can  trace,  he  called  together  a  General  Assembly,  consisting  of  two 
members  from  every  town,  borough,  or  hundred,  besides  the  Governor  and 
Council,  which  met  at  Jamestown,  near  the  end  of  June,  1619.  In  this  Assembly 
seven  corporations  were  represented,  and  four  more  were  laid  off  in  the  course 
of  the  same  summer. 

In  this  first  North  American  legislature,  wherein  were  "  debated  all  matters 
thought  expedient  for  the  good  of  the  colony,"  several  acts  were  passed  which 
were  pronounced  by  the  treasurer  of  the  company  to  be  "well  and  judiciously 
carried,"  but  which  are  unfortunately  lost  to  posterity.  This  was  an  eventful 
year  to  the  colony,  for,  in  addition  to  their  Assembly,  a  college  was  established 
in  Henrico,  with  a  liberal  endowment.  King  James  had  exacted  £15,000  from 
the  several  bishops  of  his  kingdom  for  the  purpose  of  educating  Indian  children, 
and  10,000  acres  of  land  were  now  added  by  the  company  ;  and  the  original  de- 
sign was  extended  to  make  it  a  seminary  of  learning  also  for  the  English.  One 
hundred  idle  and  dissolute  persons,  in  custody  for  various  misdemeanors,  were 
transported  by  the  authority  of  the  king  and  against  the  wishes  of  the  company 
to  Virginia.  They  were  distributed  through  the  colony  as  servants  to  the  plant- 
ers ;  and  the  degradation  of  the  colonial  character,  produced  by  such  a  process, 
was  endured  for  the  assistance  derived  from  them  in  executing  the  various  plans 
of  industry,  that  were  daily  extending  themselves.  This  beginning  excited  in 
the  colonists  a  desire  for  using  more  extensively  other  labor  than  their  own,  an 
opportunity  for  the  gratification  of  which,  unfortunately,  too  soon  occurred.  In 
this  eventful  year,  too,  a  new  article  was  introduced  into  the  trade  of  the  com- 
pany with  the  colony,  by  the  good  policy  of  the  treasurer,  Sir  Edward  Sandys, 
which  produced  a  material  change  in  the  views  and  feelings  of  the  colonists  with 
regard  to  the  countrjr.  At  the  accession  of  Sir  Edward  to  office,  after  twelve 
years'  labor,  and  an  expenditure  of  £80,000  by  the  company,  there  were  in  the 
colony  no  more  than  600  persons,  men,  women,  and  children.  In  one  year  he 
provided  a  passage  for  1261  new  emigrants.  Among  these  were  90  agreeable 
young  women,  poor,  but  respectable  and  incorrupt,  to  furnish  wives  to  the  colo- 
nists. The  wisdom  of  this  policy  is  evident — the  men  had  hitherto  regarded 
Virginia  only  as  a  place  of  temporary  sojourn  for  the  acquisition  of  wealth,  and 
never  dreamed  of  making  a  permanent  residence  in  a  place  where  it  was  impos- 


VIRGINIA.  585 

sible  to  enjoy  any  of  the  comforts  of  domestic  life.  They  had  consequently  none 
of  those  endearing  ties  of  home  and  kindred  to  bind  them  to  the  country,  or  at- 
tach them  to  its  interests,  which  are  so  necessary  to  make  a  good  citizen.  This 
new  commodity  was  transported  at  the  expense  of  the  colony,  and  sol  1  to  the 
young  planters,  and  the  following  year  another  consignment  was  made  of  60 
young  maids  of  virtuous  education,  young,  handsome,  and  well  recommended. 
A  wife  in  the  first  lot  sold  generally  for  100  pounds  of  tobacco,  but  as  the  value 
of  the  new  article  became  known  in  the  market,  the  price  rose,  and  a  wife  would 
bring  150  pounds  of  tobacco.  A  debt  for  a  wife  was  of  higher  dignity  than  other 
debts,  and  to  be  paid  first.  As  an  additional  inducement  to  marriage,  married 
men  were  generally  preferred  in  the  selection  of  officers  for  the  colony.  Do- 
mestic ties  were  formed,  habits  of  thrift  ensued,  comforts  were  increased,  and 
happiness  diffused  ;  the  tide  of  emigration  swelled  :  within  three  years  50  patents 
for  land  were  granted,  and  3500  persons  found  their  way  to  Virginia. 

In  the  month  of  August  of  this  year  an  event  occurred  which  stamped  its  im- 
press upon  the  Constitution  of  Virginia,  and  indeed  of  the  whole  southern  portion 
of  America.  This  was  the  introduction  of  20  African  slaves  by  a  Dutch  vessel, 
which  availed  itself  of  the  freedom  of  commerce,  which  had  been  released  from 
the  shackles  of  the  company's  monopoly  in  the  early  part  of  this  year,  to-  rivet 
the  bonds  of  slavery  upon  a  portion  of  their  fellow  creatures  and  their  descend- 
ants. The  indented  and  covenanted  servants  which  had  been  long  known  in 
Virginia,  and  whose  condition  was  little  better  than  that  of  slavery,  was  a  small 
evil  and  easily  removed,  because  they  were  of  the  same  color  and  country  with 
their  masters ;  when  they  were  emancipated,  they  leaped  at  once  from  their 
shackles  to  the  full  dignity  of  freedom.  No  one  scorned  to  associate  with  them, 
and  no  one  spurned  their  alliance ;  if  honorable  and  worthy  in  other  respects, 
they  were  equal  to  their  masters,  and  might  even  rise  to  distinction.  But  not  so 
the  poor  African.  Nature  has  fixed  upon  him  a  stamp  which  cannot  be  erased 
or  forgotten,  even  when  his  fetters  have  crumbled  to  the  dust. 

TREATY    BETWEEN    VIRGINIA    AND    ENGLAND. 

In  1650,  the  Government  of  the  Commonwealth  of  England  sent  a  powerful 
fleet  to  reduce  the  Colony  of  Virginia  to  submission,  as  that  colony  had  until  then 
refused  to  acknowledge  any  authority  but  that  of  King  Charles.  The  fleet  cast 
anchor  before  Jamestown,  in  the  month  of  June,  1650.  The  colonists  made  a 
formidable  show  of  resistance,  which  so  impressed  the  Cromwellian  officers  that 
they  consented  to  receive  the  surrender  of  the  colony  upon  the  following  terms, 
which  were  highly  honorable  to  Virginia.  The  reader  will  notice  that  the  poor 
little  colony  is  recognized  by  the  Commonwealth  as  its  "equal." 

The  articles  of  surrender  are  concluded  between  the  Commissioners  of  the 
Commonwealth,  and  the  Council  of  State  and  Grand  Assembly  of  Virginia,  as 
equal  treating  with  equal.  It  secures — 

1st.  That  this  should  be  considered  a  voluntary  act,  not  forced  or  constrained 
by  a  conquest  upon  the  country  ;  and  that  the  colonists  should  have  and  enjoy 
euch  freedoms  and  privileges  as  belong  to  the  freeborn  people  of  England. 

2dly.  That  the  Grand  Assembly,  as  formerly,  should  convene  and  transact  the 
affairs  of  Virginia,  doing  nothing  contrary  to  the  Government  of  the  Common- 
wealth or  laws  of  England. 

3dly.  That  there  should  be  a  full  and  total  remission  of  all  acts,  words,  or  writ- 
ings against  the  Parliament. 


586  THE    GREAT.   REPUBLIC. 

4thly.  That  Virginia  should  have  her  ancient  bounds  and  limits,  granted  by  the 
charters  of  the  former  kings,  and  that  a  new  charter  was  to  be  sought  from 
Parliament  to  that  effect,  against  such  as  had  trespassed  upon  their  ancient 
rights.  [This  clause  would  seem  to  be  aimed  at  some  of  the  neighboring 
colonies.] 

Sthly.  That  all  patents  of  land  under  the  seal  of  the  colony,  granted  by  the 
Governor,  should  remain  in  full  force. 

6thly.  That  the  privilege  of  fifty  acres  of  land  for  every  person  emigrating  to 
the  colony,  should  remain  in  full  force. 

7thly.  That  the  people  of  Virginia  have  free  trade,  as  the  people  of  England 
enjoy,  with  all  places  and  nations,  according  to  the  laws  of  the  Commonwealth  ; 
and  that  Virginia  should  enjoy  equal  privileges,  in  every  respect,  with  any  other 
colony  in  America. 

Sthly.  That  Virginia  should  be  free  from  all  taxes,  customs,  and  impositions 
whatsoever ;  and  that  none  should  be  imposed  upon  them  without  the  consent  of 
their  Grand  Assembly  ;  and  no  forts  or  castles  be  erected,  or  garrison  maintained, 
without  their  consent. 

9thly.  That  no  charge  should  be  required  from  the  country  on  account  of  the 
expense  incurred  in  the  present  fleet. 

lOthly.  That  this  agreement  should  be  tendered  to  all  persons,  and  that  such  as 
should  refuse  to  subscribe  to  it,  should  have  a  year's  time  to  remove  themselves 
and  effects  from  Virginia,  and  in  the  meantime  enjoy  equal  justice. 

The  remaining  articles  were  of  less  importance.  This  was  followed  by  a 
supplemental  treaty,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Governor  and  Council,  and  such 
soldiers  as  had  served  against  the  Commonwealth  in  England — allowing  them 
the  most  favorable  terms. 

ANECDOTES  OP  PATRICK  HENRY. 

The  wants  of  a  large  family  compelled  his  father  to  find  employment  for  his 
sons.  At  the  age  of  15,  Patrick  was  put,  behind  the  counter  of  a  country  mer- 
chant, and  the  year  following  entered  into  business  with  his  elder  brother,  Wil- 
liam, with  whom  was  to  devolve  its  chief  management ;  but  such  were  his  idle 
habits,  that  he  left  the  burden  of  the  concern  to  Patrick,  who  managed  wretchedly. 
The  drudgery  of  business  became  intolerable  to  him,  and  then,  too,  "he  could 
not  find  it  in  his  heart  "  to  disappoint  any  one  who  came  for  credit]  and  he  was 
very  easily  satisfied  with  apologies  for  non-payment.  He  sought  relief  from  his 
cares  by  having  recourse  to  the  violin,  flute,  and  reading.  An  opportunity  was 
presented  of  pursuing  his  favorite  study  of  the  human  character,  and  the  charac- 
ter of  every  customer  underwent  this  scrutiny. 

One  year  put  an  end  to  the  mercantile  concern,  and  the  two  or  three  following 
Patrick  was  engaged  in  settling  up  its  affairs.  At  18  years  of  age  he  married 
Miss  Shelton,  the  daughter  of  a  neighboring  farmer  of  respectability,  and  com- 
menced cultivating  a  small  farm  ;  but  his  aversion  to  systematic  labor,  and  want 
of  skill,  compelled  him  to  abandon  it  at  the  end  of  two  years.  Selling  off  all  his 
little  possessions  at  a  sacrifice,  he  again  embarked  in  the  hazardous  business  of 
merchandise.  His  old  business  habits  still  continued,  and  not  unfrequently  he 
shut  up  his  store  to  indulge  in  the  favorite  sports  of  his  youth.  His  reading  was 
of  a  more  serious  character ;  history,  ancient  and  modern,  lie  became  a  proficient 
in.  Livy,  however,  was  his  favorite ;  and  having  procured  a  copy,  he  read  it 


VIRGINIA.  587 

through  at  least  once  a  year  in  the  early  part  of  his  life.  In  a  few  years  his  sec- 
ond mercantile  experiment  left  him  a  bankrupt,  and  without  any  friends  enabled 
to  assist  him  further.  All  other  means  failing,  he  determined  to  try  the  law.  His 
unfortunate  habits,  unsuitable  to  so  laborious  a  profession,  and  his  pecuniary 
situation  unfitting  him  for  an  extensive  course  of  reading,  led  every  one  to  sup- 
pose that  he  would  not  succeed.  With  only  six  weeks'  study,  he  obtained  a  li- 
cense to  practise,  he  being  then  24  years  of  age.  He  was  then  not  only  unable 
to  draw  a  declaration  or  a  plea,  but  incapable,  it  is  said,  of  the  most  common  and 
simple  business  of  his  profession.  It  was  not  until  his  27th  year  that  an  oppor- 
tunity occurred  for  a  trial  of  his  strength  at  the  bar.  In  the  meantime  the  wants 
and  distresses  of  his  family  were  extreme.  They  lived  mostly  with  his  father- 
in-law,  Mr.  Shelton,  who  then  kept  a  tavern  at  Hanover  Courthouse.  Whenever 
Mr.  Shelton  was  from  home,  Henry  took  his  place  in  the  tavern,  which  is  the 
identical  public  house  now  standing  at  Hanover  Courthouse.  The  occasion  on 
which  his  genius  first  broke  forth,  was  the  controversy  between  the  clergy  and 
the  Legislature  and  people  of  the  State,  relating  to  the  stipend  claimed  by  the 
former.  The  cause  was  popularly  known  as  the  Parsons'  cause.  A  decision  of 
the  court  on  a  demurrer,  in  favor  of  the  claims  of  the  clergy,  had  left  nothing  un- 
determined but  the  amount  of  damages  in  the  cause  which  was  pending.  Soon 
after  the  opening  of  the  court,  the  cause  was  called.  The  scene  which  ensued  is 
thus  vividly  described  by  Wirt : 

"  The  array  before  Mr.  Henry's  eyes  was  now  most  fearful.  On  the  bench  sat 
more  than  20  clergymen,  the  most  learned  men  in  the  colony,  and  the  most  ca- 
pable, as  well  as  the  severest  critics  before  whom  it  was  possible  for  him  to  have 
made  his  debut.  The  courthouse  was  crowded  with  an  overwhelming  multitude, 
and  surrounded  with  an  immense  and  anxious  throng,  who,  not  finding  room  to 
enter,  were  endeavoring  to  listen  without,  in  the  deepest  attention.  But  there 
was  something  still  more  awfully  disconcerting  than  all  this  ;  for  in  the  chair  of 
the  presiding  magistrate  sat  no  other  person  than  his  own  father.  Mr.  Lyons 
opened  the  cause  very  briefly:  in  the  way  of  argument  he  did  nothing  more  than 
explain  to  the  jury,  that  the  decision  upon  the  demurrer  had  put  the  Act  of  1750 
entirely  out  of  the  way,  and  left  the  law  of  1748  as  the  only  standard  of  their 
damages  ;  he  then  concluded  with  a  highly-wrought  eulogium  on  the  benevolence 
of  the  clergy.  And  now  came  on  the  first  trial  of  Patrick  Henry's  strength.  No 
one  had  ever  heard  him  speak,  and  curiosity  was  on  tiptoe  He  rose  very  awk- 
wardly, and  faltered  much  in  his  exordium.  The  people  hung  their  heads  at  so 
unpromising  a  commencement  ;  the  clergy  were  observed  to  exchange  sly  looks 
With  each  other  ;  and  his  father  is  described  as  having  almost  sunk  with  confusion 
from  his  seat.  But  these  feelings  were  of  short  duration,  and  soon  gave  place  to 
others  of  a  very  different  character.  For  now  were  those  wonderful  faculties 
which  he  possessed  for  the  first  time  developed  ;  and  now  was  first  witnessed  that 
mysterious  and  almost  supernatural  transformation  of  appearance,  which  the  fire 
of  his  own  eloquence  never  failed  to  work  in  him.  For,  as  his  mind  rolled  along, 
and  began  to  glow  from  its  own  action,  all  the  exumcB  of  the  clown  seemed  to 
shed  themselves  spontaneously.  His  attitude  by  degrees  became  erect  and  lofty. 
The  spirit  of  his  genius  awakened  all  his  features.  His  countenance  shone  with 
a  nobleness  and  grandeur  which  it  had  never  before  exhibited.  There  was  a 
lightning  in  his  eyes  which  seemed  to  rivet  the  spectator.  His  action  became 
graceful,  bold,  and  commanding  ;  and  in  the  tones  of  his  voice,  but  more  especi- 
ally in  his  emphasis,  there  was  a  peculiar  charm,  a  magic,  of  which  any  one  who 


588  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

ever  heard  him  will  speak  as  soon  as  he  is  named,  but  of  which  no  one  can  give 
any  adequate  description.  They  can  only  say  that  it  struck  upon  the  ear  and 
upon  the  heart,  in  a  manner  which  language  cannot  tell.  Add  to  all  these  his 
wonder-working  fancy,  and  the  peculiar  phraseology  in  which  he  clothed  its 
images  ;  for  lie  painted  to  the  heart  with  a  force  that  almost  petrified  it.  In  the 
language  of  those  who  heard  him  on  this  occasion,  'he  made  their  blood  run 
cold,  and  their  hair  to  rise  on  end.' 

"  It  will  not  be  difficult  for  any  one  who  ever  heard  this  most  extraordinary  man 
to  believe  the  whole  account  of  this  transaction,  which  is  given  by  his  surviving 
hearers  ;  and,  from  their  account,  the  courthouse  of  Hanover  county  must  have 
exhibited,  on  this  occasion,  a  scene  as  picturesque  as  has  been  ever  witnessed  in 
real  life.  They  say  that  the  people,  whose  countenances  had  fallen  as  he  arose, 
had  heard  but  a  very  few  sentences  before  they  began  to  look  up  ;  then  to  look  at 
each  other  with  surprise,  as  if  doubting  the  evidence  of  their  own  senses  ;  then, 
attracted  by  some  strong  gesture,  struck  by  some  majestic  attitude,  fascinated  by 
the  spell  of  his  eye,  the  charm  of  his  emphasis,  and  the  varied  and  commanding 
expression  of  his  countenance,  they  Qould  look  away  no  more.  In  less  than  20 
minutes  they  might  be  seen,  in  every  part  of  the  house,  on  every  bench,  in  every 
window,  stooping  forward  from  their  stands,  in  death -like  silence  ;  their  features 
fixed  in  amazement  and  awe,  all  their  senses  listening  and  riveted  upon  the 
speaker,  as  if  to  catch  the  last  strain  of  some  heavenhr  visitant.  The  mockery  of 
the  clergy  was  soon  turned  into  alarm,  their  triumph  into  confusion  and  despair, 
and  at  one  burst  of  his  rapid  and  overwhelming  invective,  they  fled  from  the 
bench  in  precipitation  and  terror.  As  for  the  father,  such  was  his  surprise,  such 
his  amazement,  such  his  rapture,  that,  forgetting  where  he  was,  and  the  character 
which  he  was  filling,  tears  of  ecstasy  streamed  down  his  cheeks,  without  the 
power  or  inclination  to  repress  them. 

•'  The  jury  seem  to  have  been  so  completely  bewildered  that  they  lost  sight  not 
only  of  the  Act  of  1748,  but  that  of  1758  also  ;  for,  thoughtless  even  of  the  ad- 
mitted right  of  the  plaintiff,  they  had  scarcely  left  the  bar  when  they  returned  with 
a  verdict  of  one  penny  damages.  A  motion  was  made  for  a  new  trial ;  but  the 
court,  too,  had  now  lost  the  equipoise  of  their  judgment,  and  overruled  the  mo- 
tion by  a  unanimous  vote.  The  verdict,  and  judgment  overruling  the  motion, 
were  followed  by  redoubled  acclamation,  from  within  and  without  the  house. 
The  people,  who  had  with  difficulty  kept  their  hands  off  their  champion  from  the 
moment  of  closing  his  harangue,  no  sooner  saw  the  fate  of  the  cause  finally 
sealed,  than  they  seized  him  at  the  bar,  and,  in  spite  of  his  own  exertions  and 
the  continued  cry  of  '  order '  from  the  sheriffs  and  the  court,  they  bore  him  out 
of  the  courthouse,  and,  raising  him  on  their  shoulders,  carried  him  about  the  yard 
in  a  kind  of  electioneering  triumph." 

From  this  time  Mr.  Henry's  star  was  in  the  ascendant,  and  he  at  once  rose  to 
the  head  of  his  profession  in  that  section.  In  the  autumn  of  1764,  having  re- 
moved to  Roundabout,  in  Louisa  county,  he  was  employed  to  argue  a  case  before 
a  committee  on  elections  of  the  House  of  Burgesses.  He  distinguished  himself 
by  a  brilliant  display  on  the  right  of  suffrage.  Such  a  burst  of  eloquence  from  a 
man  of  so  humble  an  appearance,  struck  the  committee  with  amazement,  and  not 
a  sound  but  from  his  lips  broke  the  deep  silence  of  the  room. 

In  1765,  he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  House  of  Burgesses,  when  he  intro- 
duced his  celebrated  resolutions  on  the  Stamp  Act.  Among  his  papers  there  was 
found,  after  his  decease,  one  sealed  and  thus  endorsed : 


VIRGINIA.  589 

"  Enclosed  are  the  resolutions  of  the  Virginia  Assembly,  in  1765,  concerning 
the  Stamp  Act.  Let  my  executors  open  this  paper."  On  the  back  of  the  paper 
containing  the  resolutions  was  the  following  endorsement :  "  The  within  passed 
the  House  of  Burgesses  in  May,  1765.  They  formed  the  first  opposition  to  the 
Stamp  Act,  and  the  scheme  of  taxing  America  by  the  British  Parliament.  All 
the  colonies,  either  through  fear,  or  the  want  of  opportunity  to  form  an  opposi- 
tion, or  from  influence  of  some  kind  or  other,  had  remained  silent.  I  had  been 
for  the  first  time  elected  a  burgess  a  few  days  before,  was  young,  inexperienced, 
unacquainted  with  the  forms  of  the  house  and  the  members  who  composed  it. 
Finding  the  men  of  weight  averse  to  opposition,  and  the  commencement  of  the 
tax  at  hand,  and  that  no  person  was  likely  to  step  forth,  I  determined  to  venture; 
and  alone,  unaided  and  unassisted,  on  the  blank  leaf  of  an  old  law-book,  wrote 
the  within.  Upon  offering  them  to  the  house,  violent  debates  ensued.  Many 
threats  were  uttered,  and  much  abuse  cast  on  me  by  the  parties  for  submission. 
After  a  long  and  warm  contest,  the  resolutions  passed  by  a  very  small  majority, 
perhaps  one  or  two  only.  The  alarm  spread  throughout  America  with  astonish- 
ing quickness,  and  the  ministerial  party  were  overwhelmed.  The  great  point  of 
resistance  to  British  taxation  was  universally  established  in  the  colonies.  This 
brought  on  the  war,  which  finally  separated  the  two  countries,  and  gave  inde- 
pendence to  ours.  Whether  this  will  prove  a  blessing  or  a  curse,  will  depend 
upon  the  use  our  people  make  of  the  blessings  which  a  gracious  God  hath  be- 
stowed on  us.  If  they  are  wise,  they  will  be  great  and  happy.  If  they  are  of  a 
contrary  character,  they  will  be  miserable.  Righteousness  alone  can  exalt  them 
as  a  nation.  Reader,  whoever  thou  art,  remember  this  ;  and,  in  thy  sphere,  prac- 
tise virtue  thyself,  and  encourage  it  in  others.  P.  HENKY." 

It  was  in  the  midst  of  the  above-mentioned  debate  that  he  exclaimed,  in  tones 
of  thunder,  "Caesar  had  his  Brutus — Charles  the  First  his  Cromwell — and  George 
the  Third— "("Treason  !"  cried  the  speaker— "  Treason  !  treason  I"  echoed  from 
every  part  of  the  house.  Henry  faltered  not  for  a  moment ;  taking  a  loftier  atti- 
tude, and  fixing  on  the  speaker  an  eye  of  fire,  he  finished  his  sentence  with  the 
firmest  emphasis) — "may  profit  by  their  example.  If  this  be  treason,  make  the 
most  of  it."  Henceforth  Mr.  Henry  was  the  idol  of  the  people  of  Virginia,  and 
his  influence  as  one  of  the  great  champions  of  liberty  extended  throughout 
America.  In  1769,  he  was  admitted  to  the  bar  of  the  general  court.  Without 
that  legal  learning  which  study  alone  can  supply,  he  was  deficient  as  a  mere 
lawyer.  But  before  a  jury,  in  criminal  cases  particularly,  his  genius  displayed 
itself  most  brilliantly.  His  deep  knowledge  of  the  springs  of  human  action,  his 
power  of  reading  in  the  flitting  expressions  of  the  countenance  what  was  passing 
in  the  hearts  of  his  hearers,  has  rarely  been  possessed  by  any  one  in  so  great  a 
degree.  In  1767  or  1768,  Mr.  Henry  removed  back  to  Hanover,  and  continued  a 
member  of  the  House  of  Burgesses  until  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  acting  upon 
its  most  important  committees,  and  infusing  a  spirit  of  bold  opposition  in  its 
members  to  the  pretensions  of  Britain.  He  was  a  delegate  to  the  first  Colonial 
Congress,  which  assembled  Sept.  4,  1774,  at  Philadelphia. 

Upon  Lord  Dunmore's  seizing  the  gunpowder  at  Williamsburg,  in  the  night 
after  the  battle  of  Lexington,  Henry  summoned  volunteers  to  meet  him  ;  and, 
marching  down  towards  the  capitol,  compelled  the  agent  of  Dunmore  to  give  fi 
pecuniary  compensation  for  it.  This  was  the  first  military  movement  in  Virginia. 
The  Colonial  Convention  of  1775  elected  him  the  colonel  of  the  first  regiment. 


590  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  the  commander  of  "  all  the  forces  raised  and  to  be  raised  for  the  defence  of 
the  colony."  Soon  resigning  his  command,  he  was  elected  a  delegate  to  the  Con- 
vention, and  not  long  after,  in  1776,  the  first  Governor  of  the  commonwealth,  an 
office  he  held  by  successive  re-elections  until  1779,  when,  without  an  intermission, 
he  was  no  longer  constitutionally  eligible.  While  holding  that  office,  he  was 
signally  serviceable  in  sustaining  public  spirit  during  the  gloomiest  period  of  the 
Revolution,  providing  recruits,  and  crushing  the  intrigues  of  the  Tories. 

On  leaving  the  office  of  Governor,  he  served,  until  the  end  of  the  war,  in  the 
Legislature,  when  he  was  again  elected  Governor,  until  the  state  of  his  affairs 
caused  him  to  resign  in  the  autumn  of  1786.  Until  1794  lie  regularly  attended  the 
courts,  where  his  great  reputation  obtained  for  him  a  lucrative  business.  "In 
1788  he  wras  a  member  of  the  Convention  of  Virginia,  which  so  ably  and  elo- 
quently discussed  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States.  He  employed  his  mas- 
terly eloquence,  day  after  day,  in  opposition  to  the  proposed  Constitution.  His 
hostility  to  it  proceeded  entirely  from  an  apprehension  that  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment would  swallow  the  sovereignty  of  the  States ;  and  that,  ultimately  the  liberty 
of  the  people  would  be  destroyed,  or  crushed,  by  an  overgrown  and  ponderous 
consolidation  of  political  power.  The  Constitution  having  been  adopted,  the 
Government  organized,  and  Washington  elected  President,  his  repugnance 
measurably  abated.  The  chapter  of  amendments  considerably  neutralized  his 
objections;  but,  nevertheless,  it  is  believed  that  his  acquiescence  resulted  more 
from  the  consideration  of  a  citizen's  duty,  confidence  in  the  Chief  Magistrate,  and 
a  hopeful  reliance  on  the  wisdom  and  virtue  of  the  people,  rather  than  from  any 
material  change  in  his  opinions." 

In  1794,  Mr.  Henry  retired  from  the  bar.  In  1796,  the  post  of  governor  was 
once  more  tendered  to  him,  and  refused.  In  1798,  the  strong  and  animated  reso- 
lutions of  the  Virginia  Assembly,  in  opposition  to  the  alien  and  sedition  laws, 
which  laws  he  was  in  favor  of,  "conjured  up  the  most  frightful  visions  of  civil 
war,  disunion,  blood,  and  anarchy  ;  and  under  the  impulse  of  these  phantoms, 
to  make  what  he  considered  a  virtuous  effort  for  his  country,  lie  presented  him- 
self in  Charlotte  county  as  a  candidate  for  the  House  of  Delegates,  at  the  spring 
election  of  1799,"  although  he  had  retired  to  private  life  three  years  previously. 

His  speech  on  this  occasion,  before  the  polls  were  opened,  was  the  last  effort 
of  his  eloquence.  "  The  power  of  the  noon-day  sun  wras  gone;  but  its  setting 
splendors  were  not  less  beautifuland  touching."  Mr.  Henry  was  elected  by  his 
usual  commanding  majority,  and  the  most  formidable  preparations  were  made  to 
oppose  him  in  the  Assembly.  But  "the  disease  which  had  been  preying  upon 
him  for  two  years  now  hastened  to  its  crisis  ;  and  on  the  6th  of  June,  1799,  this 
friend  of  liberty  and  man  was  no  more." 

By  his  first  wife  he  had  six  children,  and  by  his  last,  six  sons  and  three  daugh- 
ters. He  left  them  a  large  landed  property.  He  was  temperate  and  frugal  in 
his  habits  of  living,  and  seldom  drank  anything  but  water.  He  was  nearly  six- 
feet  in  height,  spare,  and  raw-boned,  and  with  a  slight  stoop  in  his  shoulders  ; 
his  complexion  dark  and  sallow ;  his  countenance  grave,  thoughtful,  and  pene- 
trating, and  strongly  marked  with  the  lines  of  profound  reflection,  which  with 
his  earnest  manner,  and  the  habitual  knitting  and  contracting  of  his  brows,  gave 
at  times  an  expression  of  severity.  "  He  was  gifted  with  a  strong  and  musical 
voice,  and  a  most  expressive  countenance,  and  he  acquired  particular  skill  in  the 

use  of  them He  could  be  vehement,  insinuating,  humorous,  and  sarcastic, 

by  turns,  an<?  always  with  the  utmost  effect.  He  was  a  natural  orator  of  the 


VIRGINIA.  591 

highest  order,  combining  imagination,  acuteness,  dexterity,  and  ingenuity,  with 
the  most  forcible  action,  and  extraordinary  powers  of  face  and  utterance.  As  a 
statesman,  his  principal  merits  were  sagacity  and  boldness.  His  name  is  bril- 
liantly and  lastingly  connected  with  the  history  of  his  country's  emancipation." 
"In  private  life,  Mr.  Henry  was  as  amiable  as  he  was  brilliant  in  his  public 
career.  He  was  an  exemplary  Christian,  and  his  illustrious  life  was  greatly  orna- 
mented by  the  religion  which  he  professed.  In  his  will  he  left  the  following 
testimony  respecting  the  Christian  religion :  *  I  have  now  disposed  of  all  my 
property  to  my  family.  There  is  one  thing  more  I  wish  I  could  give  them,  and 
that  is  the  Christian  religion.  If  they  have  that,  and  I  had  not  given  one  shilling, 
they  would  be  rich;  and  if  they  have  not  that,  and  I  had  given  them  the  whole 
world,  they  would  be  poor.' ' 

SPEECH  OF  LOGAN,  A  MINGO  CHIEF. 

[  This  celebrated  chief  was  distinguished  for  magnanimity  in  war,  and  greatness 
of  soul  in  peace.  He  was  always  acknowledged  the  friend  of  the  white  people, 
until  the  year  1774,  when  his  brother  and  others  of  his  family  were  murdered  by 
the  whites.  This  drew  on  a  bloody  war  with  the  whites,  and  the  Indians  were 
obliged  to  sue  for  peace.  The  following  speech  was  delivered  at  a  treaty  held  by 
Governor  Dunmore,  of  Virginia,  with  the  Mingoes,  Shawanese,  and  Delawares. 
Logan,  though  desirous  of  peace,  remained  in  his  cabin  in  silence,  till  a  messen- 
ger was  sent  to  him,  to  know  whether  he  would  accede  to  the  proposals.  Logan, 
after  shedding  many  tears  for  the  loss  of  his  friends,  answered  as  follows  :  ] 

"I  appeal  to  any  white  man  to  say,  if  ever  he  entered  Logan's  cabin  hungry, 
and  he  gave  him  not  meat :  if  ever  he  came  cold  and  naked,  and  he  clothed  him 
not.  During  the  course  of  the  last  long  and  bloody  war,  Logan  remained  idle  in 
his  cabin,  an  advocate  for  peace.  Such  was  my  love  for  the  whites,  that  my 
countrymen  pointed  as  they  passed,  and  said,  '  Logan  is  the  friend  of  white  men.' 
I  had  even  thought  to  have  lived  with  you,  but  for  the  injuries  of  one  man. 
Colonel  Cresap,  the  last  spring,  in  cold  blood,  and  unprovoked,  murdered  all  the 
relations  of  Logan,  not  even  sparing  my  women  and  children.  There  runs  not 
a  drop  of  my  blood  in  the  veins  of  any  living  creature.  This  called  on  me  for 
revenge.  I  have  sought  it :  I  have  killed  many :  I  have  fully  glutted  my 
vengeance.  For  my  country,  I  rejoice  at  the  beams  of  peace  :  but  do  not  harbor 
a  thought  that  mine  is  the  joy  of  fear.  Logan  never  felt  fear.  He  will  not  turn 
on  his  heel  to  save  his  life.  Who  is  there  to  mourn  for  Logan  ? — Not  one." 

WASHINGTON  AND  THE  WIDOW  CUSTIS. 

It  was  in  1758  that  Washington,  attired  in  a  military  undress,  and  attended  by 
a  body  servant,  tall  and  militaire  as  his  chief,  crossed  the  ferry  called  Williams's, 
over  the  Pamunkey,  a  branch  of  York  River.  On  the  boat  touching  the  southern 
or  New  Kent  side,  the  soldier's  progress  was  arrested  by  one  of  those  personages 
who  give  the  beau  ideal  of  the  Virginia  gentleman  of  the  old  regime,  the  very 
soul  of  kindness  and  hospitality.  It  was  in  vain  the  soldier  urged  his  business  at 
Williamsburg,  important  communications  to  the  Governor,  etc.  Mr.  Chamber- 
layne,  on  whose  domain  the  militaire  had  just  landed,  would  hear  of  no  excuse. 
Colonel  Washington  was  a  name  and  character  so  dear  to  all  Virginians,  that  his 
passing  by  one  of  the  castles  of  Virginia,  without  calling  and  partaking  of  the 
hospitalities  of  the  host,  was  entirely  out  of  the  question.  The  colonel,  however. 


592  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

did  not  surrender  at  discretion,  but  stoutly  maintained  his  ground  till  Chamber- 
layne,  bringing  up  his  reserve  in  the  intimation  that  he  would  introduce  his  friend 
to  a  young  and  charming  widow,  then  beneath  his  roof,  the  soldier  capitulated, 
on  condition  that  he  should  dine — only  dine — and  then,  by  pressing  his  charger 
and  borrowing  of  the  night,  he  would  reach  Williamsburg  before  his  excellency 
could  shake  off  his  morning  slumbers.  Orders  were  accordingly  issued  to  Bishop, 
the  colonel's  body  servant  and  faithful  follower,  who,  together  with  the  fine 
English  charger,  had  been  bequeathed  by  the  dying  Braddock  to  Major  Washing- 
ton, on  the  famed  and  fated  field  of  Monongahela.  Bishop,  bred  in  the  school 
of  European  discipline,  raised  his  hand  to  his  cap,  as  mucli  as  to  say,  "  Your 
orders  shall  be  obeyed." 

The  colonel  now  proceeded  to  the  mansion,  and  was  introduced  to  various 
guests,  (for  when  was  a  Virginia  domicil  of  the  olden  time  without  guests  ?)  and, 
above  all,  to  the  charming  widow.  Tradition  relates  that  they  were  mutually 
pleased,  on  this,  their  first  interview — nor  is  it  remarkable  ;  they  were  of  an  age 
when  impressions  are  strongest.  The  lady  was  fair  to  behold,  of  fascinating 
manners,  and  splendidly  endowed  with  worldly  benefits.  The  hero  was  fresh 
from  his  early  fields,  redolent  of  fame,  and  with  a  form  on  which  "  every  god  did 
seem  to  set  his  seal,  to  give  the  world  assurance  of  a  man." 

The  morning  passed  pleasantly  away,  evening  came,  with  Bishop,  true  to  his 
orders  and  firm  at  his  post,  holding  the  favorite  charger  with  one  hand,  while  the 
other  was  waiting  to  offer  the  ready  stirrup.  The  sun  sunk  in  the  horizon,  and 
yet  the  colonel  appeared  not.  "'Twas  strange,  'twas  passing  strange;"  surely 
he  was  not  wont  to  be  a  single  moment  behind  his  appointments — for  he  was 
the  most  punctual  of  all  men. 

Meantime,  the  host  enjoyed  the  scene  of  the  veteran  at  the  gate,  while  the 
colonel  jvas  so  agreeably  employed  in  the  parlor  ;  and  proclaiming  that  no  visitor 
ever  left  his  home  at  sunset,  his  military  guest  was,  without  much  difficulty,  per- 
suaded to  order  Bishop  to  put  up  the  horses  for  the  night.  The  sun  rode  high  in 
the  heavens  the  ensuing  day,  when  the  enamored  soldier  pressed  with  his  spur 
his*  charger's  side,  and  speeded  on  his  way  to  the  seat  of  government,  where, 
having  dispatched  his  public  business,  he  retraced  his  steps,  and,  at  the  White 
House,  the  engagement  took  place,  with  preparations  for  marriage. 

And  much  hath  the  biographer  heard  of  that  marriage,  from  the  gray-haired 
domestics  who  waited  at  the  board  where  love  made  the  feast  and  Washington 
the  guest.  And  rare  and  high  was  the  revelry  at  that  palmy  period  of  Virginia's 
festal  age ;  for  many  were  gathered  to  that  marriage,  of  the  good,  the  great,  the 
gifted,  and  they,  with  joyous  acclamations,  hailed  in  Virginia's  youthful  hero  a 
happy  and  prosperous  bridegroom. 

"And  so  you  remember  when  Colonel  Washington  came  a  courting  of  your 
young  mistress  V",  said  the  biographer  to  old  Cully,  in  his  hundredth  year. 
"  Ay,  master,  that  I  do,"  replied  the  ancient  family  servant,  who  had  lived  to  see 
five  generations  ;  "great  times,  sir,  great  times— shall  never  see  the  like  again  !" 
"And  Washington  looked  something  like  a  man,  a  proper  man — hey,  Cully?" 
"  Never  seed  the  like,  sir— never  the  like  of  him,  though  I  have  seen  many  in  my 
day — so  tall,  so  straight !  and  then  he  sat  on  a  horse  and  rode  with  such  an  air  ! 
Ah,  sir,  he  was  like  no  one  else.  Many  of  the  grandest  gentlemen,  in  the  gold 
lace,  were  at  the  wedding ;  but  none  looked  like  the  man  himself."  Strong, 
indeed,  must  have  been  the  impression  which  the  person  and  the  manner  of 
Washington  made  upon  the  "rude,  untutored  mind"  of  this  poor  negro,  since 
the  lapse  of  three-quarters  of  a  century  had  not  sufficed  to  efface  it. 


VIRGINIA.  593 

The  precise  date  of  the  marriage  the  biographer  has  been  unable  to  discover, 
having  in  vain  searched  among  the  records  of  the  vestry  of  St.  Peter's  church, 
New  Kent,  of  which  the  Rev.  Mr.  Munson,  a  Cambridge  scholar,  was  the  rector, 
and  performed  the  ceremony,  it  is  believed,  about  1759.  A  short  time  after  their 
marriage,  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Washington  removed  to  Mount  Vernon,  on  the  Po- 
tomac, and  permanently  settled  there. 

"This  union,"  says  Sparks,  "was  in  every  respect  felicitous.  It  continued 
forty  years.  To  her  intimate  acquaintances  and  to  the  nation,  the  character  of 
Mrs.  Washington  was  ever  a  theme  of  praise.  Affable  and  courteous,  exemplary 
in  her  deportment,  remarkable  for  her  deeds  of  charity  and  piety,  unostentatious, 
and  without  vanity,  she  adorned  by  her  domestic  virtues  the  sphere  of  private 
life,  and  filled  with  dignity  every  station  in  which  she  was  placed." 

Previous  to  his  acquaintance  with  Mrs.  Custis,  Washington  had  been  pleased 
with  other  ladies.  The  author  above  quoted  on  this  point  says,  that  in  1756, 
"  While  in  New  York,  he  was  lodged  and  kindly  entertained  at  the  house  of  Mr. 
Beverley  Robinson,  between  whom  and  himself  an  intimacy  of  friendship  sub- 
sisted, which,  indeed,  continued  without  change,  till  severed  by  their  opposite 
fortunes  twenty  years  afterwards  in  the  Revolution.  It  happened  that  Miss 
Mary  Philips,  a  sister  of  Mrs.  Robinson,  and  a  young  lady  of  rare  accomplish- 
ments, was  an  inmate  of  the  family.  The  charms  of  this  lady  made  a  deep  im- 
pression upon  the  heart  of  the  Virginia  colonel.  He  went  to  Boston,  returned, 
and  was  again  welcomed  to  the  hospitality  of  Mr.  Robinson.  He  lingered  there 
till  duty  called  him  away ;  but  he  was  careful  to  intrust  his  secret  to  a  confiden- 
tial friend,  whose  letters  kept  him  informed  of  every  important  event.  In  a 
few  months,  intelligence  came,  that  a  rival  was  in  the  field,  and  that  the  conse- 
quences could  not  be  answered  for,  if  he  delayed  to  renew  his  visits  to  New  York. 
Whether  time,  the  bustle  of  a  camp,  or  the  scenes  of  war  had  moderated  his  ad- 
miration, or  whether  he  despaired  of  success,  is  not  known.  He  never  saw  the 
lady  again  till  she  was  married  to  that  same  rival,  Captain  Morris,  his  former 
associate  in  arms,  and  one  of  Braddock's  aids-de-camp. 

44  He  had  before  felt  the  influence  of  the  tender  passion.  At  the  age  of  17,  he 
was  smitten  by  the  graces  of  a  fair  one,  whom  he  called  a  4  lowland  beauty,'  and 
whose  praises  he  recorded  in  glowing  strains,  while  wandering  with  his  surveyor's 
compass  among  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  On  that  occasion  he  wrote  despond- 
ing letters  to  a  friend,  and  indited  plaintive  verses,  but  never  ventured  to  reveal 
his  emotions  to  the  lady  who  was  unconsciously  the  cause  of  his  pains." 


THE    DEATH    OF    WASHINGTON. 

Tobias  Lear,  a  gentleman  of  fine  education,  who  was  Washington's  Secretary 
for  a  long  time,  gave  a  simple  but  graphic  account  of  the  scenes  at  the  time  of  the 
death  of  Washington.  It  will  be  remembered  that  the  malady  was  violent  in- 
fltmmalion  of  the  throat.  On  the  first  attack,  Washington  paid  no  attention  to 
it,  and  on  being  advised  to  take  some  simple  remedy  for  hoarseness,  he  said, 
4'  No,  you  know  I  never  take  anything  for  a  cold.  Let  it  go  as  it  came."  That 
was  on  Friday  evening,  the  13th  of  December,  1799.  Between  2  and  3  o'clock 
the  next  morning,  he  awoke  Mrs.  Washington,  and,  with  great  difficulty  of  utter- 
ance, told  her  he  was  very  unwell,  and  had  had  an  ague.  He  would  not  permit 
her  to  rise  to  procure  a  remedy,  lest  she  should  take  cold  ;  but  at  daylight,  when 
the  servant  came  to  make  the  fire  in  the  room,  she  was  sent  to  call  Mr.  Lear. 
38 


594  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Washington  was  then  breathing  with  great  difficulty,  and  one  of  the  overseers 
was  called  in  to  bleed  him,  while  a  servant  was  dispatched  for  Doctor  Craik. 
The  bleeding  afforded  no  relief.  Dr.  Craik  arrived  about  9  o'clock,  and  other 
physicians  were  sent  for.  But  all  their  remedies  were  applied  in  vain.  The 
malady  increased  in  violence,  and  at  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  General  whis- 
pered, "I  find  I  am  going.  My  breath  cannot  last  long.  I  believed  from  the 
first  that  the  disorder  would  prove  fatal."  Between  5  and  6  o'clock,  Dr.  Craik 
went  to  the  bed  and  asked  the  sufferer  if  he  could  sit  up.  He  held  out  his  hand, 
and  was  raised  up.  He  then  said  to  the  several  physicians  present,  "  I  feel  my- 
self going ;  I  thank  you  for  your  attentions ;  but  I  pray  you  to  take  no  more 
trouble  about  me."  He  lay  down  again,  and  all  retired  except  Dr.  Craik.  He 
continued  in  the  same  situation,  uneasy  and  restless,  but  without  complaining ; 
frequently  asking  what  hour  it  was. 

At  about  8  o'clock,  the  physicians  came  into  the  room  and  applied  blisters  and 
cataplasms  of  bran  to  his  legs  and  feet,  after  which  they  went  out,  except  Dr. 
Craik,  without  a  ray  of  hope.  About  10  o'clock,  he  made  several  attempts  to 
speak,  and  at  length,  with  great  difficulty,  he  whispered  to  Mr.  Lear,  "I  am  just 
going.  Have  me  decently  buried  ;  and  do  not  let  my  body  be  put  into  the  vault 
in  less  than  three  days  after  I  am  dead."  He  then  looked  at  Mr.  Lear,  and  said, 
"  Do  you  understand  me  ?  "  Mr.  Lear  replied,  "  Yes,"  when  the  expiring  Patriot 
said,  "  It  is  well."  These  were  his  last  words. 

About  ten  minutes  before  his  death,  his  breathing  became  easier.  He  felt  of 
his  own  pulse,  and  a  few  moments  afterwards  expired.  The  hour  was  11  o'clock 
on  Saturday  evening.  The  only  persons  in  the  room  at  the  time  were  Mrs. 
Washington,  Dr.  Craik,  Mr.  Lear,  Mrs.  Forbes,  the  housekeeper,  Washington's 
favorite  house-servant  Christopher,  and  Caroline,  Molly,  and  Charlotte,  other 
servants.  Mr.  Lear  held  the  hand  of  Washington  to  his  bosom.  Dr.  Craik 
stood  weeping  near.  Mrs.  Washington  sat  at  the  foot  of  the  bed,  and  Christopher 
was  at  its  side.  When  all  was  silent,  Mrs.  Washington  asked,  with  a  firm  and 
collected  voice,  "  Is  he  gone  ?  "  All  were  too  full  for  utterance,  but  an  affirmative 
sign  assured  her  that  he  was  no  more.  "  'Tis  well,"  she  said,  in  the  same  voice, 
"  all  is  over  now ;  I  shall  soon  follow  him ;  I  have  no  more  trials  to  pass 
through." 


NORTH    CAROLINA. 

Area,       50,704  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  I860, 9Q2,6i:2 

Population  in  1870, 1,071,404 

THE  State  of  North  Carolina,  one  of  the  original,  members  of  the 
Union,  lies  between  33°  53'  and  36°  33'  N.  latitude,  and  between 
75°  25'  and  84°  30'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Virginia  and  Tennessee,  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the 
south  by  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the 
west  by  Tennessee.  Its  extreme  length,  from  east  to  west,  is  about 
450  miles,  and  its  extreme  width,  from  north  to  south,  about  180 
miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

In  the  southern  and  southeastern  parts  of  the  State,  the  surface  is 
level  and  sandy,  and  often  marshy.  These  swamp  lands  are  owned 
by  the  Board  of  Literature,  in  trust  for  the  Public  Schools,  and  are 
now  offered  to  actual  settlers  on  very  liberal  terms.  "  The  better  class 
of  these  lands  are  generally  covered  with  a  heavy  and  dense  growth 
of  timber,  vines,  reeds,  and  grass ;  the  soil  is  from  five  to  fifteen  feet 
deep,  and  consists  of  decomposed  vegetable  matter,  fine  sand,  and  finely 
comminuted  clay.  It  produces  exuberantly  all  the  grains,  grass,  cot- 
ton, rice,  peas,  potatoes,  turnips,  pumpkins,  melons,  the  garden  vege- 
tables, apples,  peaches,  and  grapes ;  but  the  best  test  of  its  fertility  is 
its  growth  of  Indian  corn,  an  exhausting  crop,  which  it  will  yield  in 
large  amounts,  from  year  to  year,  without  manures  or  stimulants,  and 
for  an  indefinite  period.  It  will  not  produce  as  much  per  acre  as  the 
heavy  clay  soils  in  the  highest  state  of  improvement;  but  considering 

595 


596  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  difference  of  the  expense  of  production,  the  crops  of  the  former  ar*. 
vastly  the  more  profitable.  The  average  yield  of  Indian  corn  per  acre, 
without  the  application  of  fertilizers  or  stimulants,  is  from  fifty  to 
seventy-five  bushels ;  and  experience  has  proved  that  this  will  continue, 
from  year  to  year,  for  more  than  a  century ;  while  science  infers,  from 
the  facts  of  the  past  and  from  careful  analyses,  that  even  two  centuries 
of  close  cultivation  will  not  exhaust  the  natural  and  ever  renewing 
fertility  of  these  soils.  The  swamps  of  eastern  North  Carolina  do  not 
generate  the  malaria  which,  in  the  marshy  regions  further  south, 
causes  malignant  fevers;  and  the  experience  of  a  large  population 
devoted  for  over  a  century  to  open-air  pursuits,  will  confirm  the  state- 
ment that  the  laborers  here,  in  the  woods,  in  the  fields,  and  on  the 
waters,  are  generally  as  healthy  as  in  any  part  of  the  country." 

The  great  Dismal  Swamp,  already  described,  occupies  the  upper 
part  of  the  counties  lying  immediately  north  of  Albemarle  Sound. 

About  sixty  miles  back  from  the  coast,  the  surface  begins  to  rise, 
arid  forms  a  fine  hill  country  in  the  central  part  of  the  State.  The 
western  part  is  traversed  by  the  ranges  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains, 
one  of  which  (the  Iron  Mountains)  forms  the  boundary  between  North 
Carolina  and  Tennessee.  These  mountains  are  rarely  lower  than 
1000  feet.  The  principal  peaks  are  Clingman's  Peak,  6941  feet,  and 
Mount  Mitchell,  6732  feet  high,  which  form  parts  of  the  Black 
Mountains,  and  Roan  Mountain,  6720  feet,  Grandfather  Mountain, 
5788  feet,  and  Grandmother  Mountain,  2500  feet  high. 

The  coast  is  lined  by  a  chain  of  low  islands  or  sand  reefs,  which  lie 
between  the  mainland  and  the  ocean,  enclosing  a  series  of  sounds  or 
lagoons,  which  are  very  shallow  and  difficult  of  navigation.  Albe- 
marle Soundj  one  of  the  most  important  of  these,  lies  in  the  extreme 
northeastern  part  of  the  State,  immediately  south  of  the  Dismal 
Swamp.  It  extends  inland  from  the  ocean  about  60  miles,  and  is 
from  4  to  15  miles  wide.  Just  northeast  of  it  is  a  smaller  body  of 
water  called  Currituck  Sound,  with  which  it  communicates  by  a  nar- 
row inlet.  Communication  is  had  with  Pamlico  Sound  in  the  same 
way.  Pamlico  Sound  lies  immediately  south  of  Albemarle  Sound, 
and  is  separated  from  it  by  a  swampy  neck  of  land,  which  comprises 
the  counties  of  Hyde,  Tyrrel,  Washington,  and  Beaufort.  The  Sound 
is  80  miles  long,  and  from  10  to  25  miles  wide.  Its  average  depth  is 
about  20  feet,  but  many  shoals  occur  in  it.  It  is  connected  with  Albe- 
marle Sound  at  its  northeastern  extremity  by  a  narrow  inlet,  in  which, 
halfway  between  the  two  sounds,  lies  Roanoke  Island,  famous  as 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  59T 

having  been  the  site  of  the  first  English  colony  in  America,  and  the 
scene  of  a  fierce  and  bloody  battle  during  the  late  war. 

The  Roanoke  and  Chowan  rivers  are  the  principal  streams  flowing 
into  Albernarle  Sound,  and  the  Tar  and  Neuse  rivers  the  principal 
streams  flowing  into  Pamlico  Sound.  The  Roanoke  River  rises  in  two 
branches  in  Virginia,  which  unite  at  Clarksville,  in  Mecklenburg  coun- 
ty, in  that  State.  Its  general  course  is  east-southeast,  as  far  as  the 
northwest  end  of  Halifax  county  (N.  C.),  where  it  enters  North  Caro- 
lina, and  flows  southeast  to  Albemarle  Sound.  It  meets  tidewater  at 
Weldon  in  Halifax  county,  150  miles  from  its  mouth,  but  above  that 
place  is  frequently  broken  by  rapids.  The  length  of  the  main  stream 
is  250  miles.  One  of  its  branches,  the  Staunton  River,  is  about  200 
miles  long,  and  is  regarded  by  some  writers  as  the  true  Roanoke. 
This  would  make  the  length  of  the  river  about  450  miles.  The  Tar 
River,  the  lower  part  of  which  is  sometimes  called  the  Pamlico  River, 
rises  near  the  western  border  of  Granville  county,  and  flows  southeast 
into  Pamlico  Sound.  It  is  navigable  for  small  vessels  to  Tarborough, 
in  Edgecombe  county.  The  Neuse  River  rises  in  Person  county,  the 
central  northern  county  of  the  State,  and  flows  southeast  into  Pamlico 
Sound.  It  is  about  300  miles  long,  and  is  the  second  river  in  size  in 
the  State.  It  is  navigable  to  Waynesborough,  100  miles  from  its 
mouth,  but  light  draught  boats  have  ascended  it  100  miles  farther. 
Its  lower  part  forms  a  broad  estuary  several  miles  wide,  and  about  25 
miles  long,  through  which  it  empties  its  waters.  Extensive  forests  of 
pitch  and  pine  lie  along  its  upper  waters,  or  more  properly  above 
Kinston.  Goldsborough,  Smithfield,  Kinston,  and  Newberne  are  its 
principal  towns.  TJie  Cape  Fear  River,  the  principal  stream  in  the 
State,  is  formed  by  the  confluence,  in  Chatham  county,  of  the  Haw 
and  Deep  rivers.  It  flows  thence,  in  a  southeasterly  direction, 
through  the  centre  of  the  State,  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  At  its 
mouth  it  is  divided  into  two  channels  by  Smith's  Island.  It  is  the 
only  river  of  the  State  flowing  directly  into  the  ocean,  and  is  navigable 
to  Fayetteville,  1,20  miles.  By  means  of  canals,  dams,  etc.,  boats  are 
enabled  now  to  reach  the  coal  mines  of  Chatham  county.  It  is  a  little 
over  300  miles  long.  Wilmington,  the  principal  city  of  the  State, 
Fayetteville,  and  Elizabethtown  are  situated  on  its  banks.  Cape 
Fear,  the  most  southern  point  of  the  State,  is  formed  by  the  lower 
end  of  Smith's  Island.  The  mouth  of  the  river  is  defended  by  Fort 
Fisher,  which  was  bombarded  and  taken  from  the  Confederates  by  the 
naval  and  land  forces  of  the  Union  during  the  late  war.  The  Yad- 


598 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SEA   COAST  OF  NORTH  CAROLINA. 

kin  (called  the  Great  Pedee  in  South  Carolina)  and  Catawba  (Wateree 
in  South  Carolina),  and  several  of  the  principal  rivers  of  South  Caro- 
lina rise  in  and  flow  for  some  distance  through  this  State.  The  waters 
of  North  Carolina  abound  in  fish.  The  fisheries  of  Pamlico  and  Albe- 
marle  Sounds  are  amongst  the  most' valuable  in  the  world.  There 
are  several  inlets  breaking  through  the  sand  ridge  lying  along  the 
coast,  and  several  fine  harbors  within  the  limits  of  the  State.  The 
most  prominent  points  of  this  ridge  are  known  (commencing  on  the 
north)  as  Cape  Hatteras,  Cape  Lookout,  and  Cape  Fear. 

SOIL,    PRODUCTIONS,   CLIMATE,    MINERALS, 

MANUFACTURES,  etc. 

From  a  communication  from  the  Governor  of  North  Carolina  to 
the  United  States  Commissioner  of  Emigration,  we  take  the  following 
description,  which  fairly  represents  the  present  condition  of  the  State: 
"  The  eastern  section  is  mostly  covered  with  pines,  the  middle  and 
western  with  vast  forests  of  oaks  (of  many  species)  interspersed  with 
the  poplar,  hickory,  walnut,  maple,  etc.  Seven  large  rivers,  with 
their  numerous  tributaries,  traverse  the  State,  furnishing  unlimited 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  599 

water-power  as  they  flow  down  from  the  mountains  through  the  middle 
section ;  and  as  they  move  with  a  moderate  current  across  the  champaign 
country,  on  the  east,  into  the  chain  of  sounds  which  skirt  the  coast, 
they  furnish  with  these  an  aggregate  of  900  miles  of  inland  naviga- 
tion, which  might  be  doubled  by  carrying  westward  the  system  of 
slack- water  improvements  already  commenced.  With  these  navigable 
waters  is  interlaced  the  railroad  system  of  the  State,  amounting  to  998 
miles  completed,  and  400  more  in  progress,  which,  with  350  miles 
of  plank-roads  and  turnpikes,  brings  the  sea-coast  into  ready  com- 
munication with  every  part  of  the  State. 

"THE  SOIL  is  very  various;  alluvial  and  peaty  accumulations 
abound  near  the  coast  and  along  the  rivers,  while  in  the  middle  and 
western  regions  the  soil  is  mainly  of  granitic  origin,  and  represents 
every  grade  of  sandy  or  clayey  loam  of  various  fertility. 

"  THE  CLIMATE  has  also  a  wide  range,  being  tempered  on  the  sea- 
board to  something  like  the  mildness  of  that  of  the  Gulf  States,  while 
in  the  mountain  region  it  approaches  the  rigor  of  New  York.  In  the 
middle  section,  which  constitutes  the  larger  part  of  the  State,  and 
represents  the  average  climate,  the  mean  annual  temperature  is  60 
degrees  -(Fahrenheit) — the  mean  summer  temperature  75  degrees; 
mean  winter,  43  degrees ;  extreme  summer  (diurnal),  89  degrees ; 
average  absolute  maximum,  99  degrees ;  extreme  winter  (diurnal),  20 
degrees;  average  absolute  minimum,  12  degrees.  The  annual  fall 
of  rain  is  45  inches.  The  number  of  cloudy  days  in  the  year  is  130 ; 
rainy  days,  60. 

"  THE  VEGETABLE  PEODUCTIONS  are  numerous.  The  most  im- 
portant are  wheat,  corn,  oats,  rye,  potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  peas,  rice, 
cotton,  tobacco,  turpentine,  grapes,  and  fruits.  Wheat  and  corn  are 
produced  with  facility  and  abundance  in  all  parts;  rye,  oats,  and 
potatoes  flourish  in  the  middle  and  western  regions ;  rice,  sweet  pota- 
toes and  peas  in  the  eastern ;  tobacco  in  the  middle ;  cotton  in  the  south- 
ern counties  of  the  middle,  and  in  the  eastern  section  ;  turpentine  and 
pine  lumber  are  peculiar  to  the  east.  The  fruits  most  extensively 
and  largely  cultivated  are  the  apple,  peach,  pear,  and  cherry,  repre- 
sented by  numerous  varieties.  No  part  of  the  continent  is  better 
adapted  to  these  than  the  middle  and  western  regions.  The  principal 
grasses  are  the  orchard,  herd's,  timothy,  and  blue,  to  which  must  be 
added  clover  and  lucerne.  All  these  flourish  in  the  middle  and 
western  regions,  and  some  of  them  grow  wild ;  hence,  stock-raising  is 
easy  and  profitable.  The  stock  chiefly  raised  are  horses,  mules,  cows, 


600  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

sheep,  and  hogs.  The  grapes  usually  cultivated,  besides  foreign 
varieties,  are  the  Scuppernong,  Catawba,  Lincoln,  and  Isabella,  all 
natives  of  the  State,  the  first  three  being  excellent  wine  grapes.  The 
Scuppernong  is  peculiar  to  the  eastern  section.  The  following 
abstract  from  the  United  States  Census  Report,  will  best  show  the 
productions  and  capabilities  of  the  State: — 

Live  stock, $22,000,000 

Wheat, 28,000  bushels  annual  product. 

Corn, 20,000,000 

Oats, 3,225,000 

Rye, 4,000 

Peas 1,000,000 

Potatoes, 740,000 

Sweet  potatoes,    .     .    .  3,000,000        u 

Cotton 58,000,000  pounds  per  annum. 

Tobacco. 12,000.000 

Rice, 2,100,000 

Wool, 800,000        u 

Honey 1,500,000      .  " 

Turpentine,     ....  1,000,000  barrels 

"THE  MANUFACTURES  are  chiefly  cotton,  wool,  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine, lumber,  iron,  and  paper. 

"  The  amount  invested  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton  is  $2,250,000 ; 
lumber,  $1,000,000;  turpentine,  $2,000,000;  iron,  $500,000 ;  wool, 
$350,000. 

"  FISHERIES  abound  in  the  sounds  and  rivers  of  the  eastern  counties. 
The  species  of  fish  mostly  taken  are  the  herring,  shad,  blue-fish, 
mullet,  and  rock.  The  number  of  barrels  annually  packed  for  mar- 
ket is  about  100,000  on  the  waters  of  Albemarle  Sound.  Consider- 
able quantities  are  packed  at  other  points. 

"  MINERALS. — The  most  important  of  these  are  coal,  iron,  gold, 
copper,  silver,  lead,  plumbago,  limestone,  marble,  agolmatolite,  soap- 
stone,  manganese,  whetstones,  grindstones,  roofing-slates,  porcelain 
clay,  and  fire-clay.  The  coal  is  bituminous,  and  exists  in  two  beds, 
situated  respectively  one  hundred  and  two  hundred  miles  from  the 
coast,  on  Cape  Fear  River  and  on  Dan  River.  It  is  abundant, 
accessible,  and  of  good  quality.  Iron  ore  of  excellent  quality  abounds 
in  all  parts  of  the  State;  the  principal  seats  of  its  manufacture  being 
on  the  Cape  Fear,  Catawba,  and  Yadkin  rivers.  Gold  is  found  in 
almost  all  parts  of  the  State,  especially  in  the  middle  region ;  the 
annual  product  for  many  years  has  been  $250,000.  Copper  mines 
abound  in  the  middle,  northern,  and  western  counties.  Plumbago  is 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  601 

found  in  great  abundance  near  the  capital,  and  again  in  the  western 
region ;  marble  in  the  middle  and  western ;  and  marl  everywhere  in 
the  eastern  section.  A  chain  of  silver  and  lead  mines  (containing 
gold  also)  traverses  the  central  portion  of  the  State." 

COMMERCE. 

The  exports  of  North  Carolina  are  principally  pitch,  tar,  turpentine, 
cotton,  and  rice.  In  1860,  the  commerce  of  the  State  was  as  follows: 
Exports  $760,094;  imports  $365,931.  A  vigorous  trade  with  the 
Northern  States  has  sprung  up  since  the  war. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872  there  were  1190  miles  of  completed  railroad  in  North  Caro- 
lina, constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  §30,000,000.  Two  main  lines  cross 
the  State,  one  from  Weldon  to  Wilmington,  the  other  from  Danville, 
Virginia,  to  Charlotte.  There  is  still  another  important  road  from 
Greensboro  in  Guilford  county,  to  Morehead  City,  on  the  Atlantic 
coast.  This  road  crosses  the  Wilmington  and  Weldon  road  at  Golds- 
borough.  There  is  direct  communication  between  the  important 
towns  of  this  State,  by  the  lines  above  mentioned  and  their  branches, 
and  also  with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  The  roads  of  North  Carolina 
were  almost  destroyed  during  the  war,  and  are  slowly  recovering 
from  their  losses. 

EDUCATION. 

The  University  of  North  Carolina  is  located  at  Chapel  Hill,  in 
Orange  county.  It  was  founded  in  1789,  and  with  "its  lands,  emolu- 
ments, and  franchises,  is  under  the  control  of  the  State,  and  is  to  be 
held  to  an  inseparable  connection  with  the  Free  Public  School  System 
of  the  State.  The  benefits  of  the  University  as  far  as  practicable  are 
to  be  extended  to  the  youth  of  the  State,  free  of  expense  for  tuition. 
Previous  to  the  late  war,  this  institution  was  in  a  very  flourishing 
condition,  but  its  resources  have  been  crippled  by  the  failure  of  the 
State  Bank,  in  which  $200,000  of  its  endowment  was  invested. 
The  Board  of  Education  elect  for  the  University  one  Trustee  for  each 
county  in  the  State,  whose  term  of  office  is  eight  years.  One-fourth 
of  the  Trustees  are  chosen  every  second  year.  The  Board  of  Educa- 
tion and  the  President  of  the  University  are  ex-qfficio  members  of  the 
Board  of  Trustees,  and  with  three  other  Trustees  to  be  appointed  by 
the  Board,  constitute  the  Executive  Committee  of  the  Trustees  of  the 
University  of  North  Carolina.  The  Governor  is  ex-qfficio  President 


602  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  the  Board  of  Trustees,  and  Chairman  of  the  Executive  Committee 
of  the  University. 

"  Before  the  war,  public  schools  were  maintained  in  the  State,  by 
means  of  the  income  derived  from  the  Literary  Fund,  which  amounted 
to  $2,500,000  in  1860.  About  half  of  this  fund  was  swept  away  by 
the  war ;  and  the  system  of  district  schools,  which  had  brought  a  rudi- 
mentary education  within  the  reach  of  all,  free  of  cost,  was  prostrated, 
but  measures  have  been  taken  to  revive  it. 

"  The  Constitution  provides  for  a  general  and  uniform  system  of 
Free  Public  Schools.  The  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor,  Secretary 
of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor,  Superintendent  of  Public  Works,  Super- 
intendent of  Public  Instruction,  and  Attorney-General  constitute  a 
State  Board  of  Education,  which  succeeds  to  all  the  powers  and  trusts 
of  the  President  and  Directors  of  the  Literary  Fund  of  North  Caro- 
lina, and  has  full  power  to  legislate  and  make  all  needful  rules  and 
regulations  in  relation  to  Free  Public  Schools,  and  the  Educational 
Fund.  The  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction  has  the  chief  over- 
sight of  the  schools.  Each  county  is  divided  into  school  districts,  in 
each  of  which  one  or  more  public  schools  must  be  maintained  at  least 
four  months  in  the  year.  The  schools  of  each  county  are  under  the 
supervision  and  control  of  county  commissioners  elected  biennially."  * 

In  1870  there  were  about  1250  schools  in  the  State,  attended  by 
32,650  white,  and  12,350  colored  children.  In  1860  there  were  16 
colleges  in  the  State. 

In  the  same  year  there  were  in  North  Carolina  1746  libraries,  con- 
taining 3,687,363  volumes.  The  newspapers  and  periodicals  of  the 
State  were  64  in  number,  with  an  aggregate  circulation  of  6,684,950 
copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

This  State  has  no  Penitentiary,  but  the  Constitution  of  1868  re- 
quires that  one  shall  be  erected  as  speedily  as  possible,  and  also  author- 
izes the  establishment  of  Houses  of  Refuge  and  Workhouses,  as  they 
may  become  necessary. 

The  State  Insane  Asylum,  at  Raleigh,  is  an  excellent  institution. 
It  was  in  a  very  prosperous  condition  before  the  war,  but  during  hos- 
tilities it  was  greatly  impoverished,  and  was  greatly  inconvenienced 
by  the  lack  of  funds  and  supplies.  It  is  now  in  operation  under 
more  favorable  auspices,  and  has  about  180  inmates. 

*  American  Year  Book,  vol.  i.  p.  424. 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  603 

The  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Blind,  at  Raleigh,  was 
closed  for  a  while  during  the  war,  but  was  reopened  in  January,  1866. 
Binding  books,  and  making  shoes  and  brooms,  constitute  the  princi- 
pal work  of  its  pupils.  In  1867  it  had  93  inmates,  26  of  which  were 
blind. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  the  State  was  $2,487,877, 
and  the  number  of  churches,  2497. 


FINANCES. 

In  January,  1871,  the  State  debt  amounted  to  $29,900,045.  The 
annual  expenses  of  the  State,  including  the  interest,  at  six  per  cent, 
on  the  debt,  are  about  $2,500,000,  and  are  provided  for  by  taxation. 

In  1868  there  were  6  National  Banks  in  the  State,  with  a  capital 
of  $653,300. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  North  Carolina  was  adopted  by  the 
people  in  April,  1868.  The  present  State  officers  were  elected  at  the 
same  time,  and  hold  office  for  four  years  from  the  1st  of  January, 
1869.  Every  male  citizen,  21  years  old,  who  has  resided  in  the 
State  one  year,  and  in  the  county  six  months,  has  the  right  to  vote  at 
the  elections,  but  no  person  may  vote  without  being  registered. 

The  Government  of  the  State  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant 
Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor,  Attorney-General, 
and  a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  50  members^  and  House 
of  Representatives  (of  120  members),  all  chosen  by  the  people.  The 
Executive  officers  are  chosen  every  fourth  year,  and  members  of  the 
Legislature  every  two  years.  The  Governor  is  advised  in  his  duties 
by  a  Council  of  State,  of  which  the  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer, 
Auditor,  and  the  Superintendents  of  Public  Works  and  of  Public 
Instruction,  are  ex-cfficio  members.  A  separate  journal  of  the  pro- 
ceedings of  this  Council  is  kept,  which  must  be  submitted  to  the 
Legislature  for  examination  whenever  called  for. 

The  courts  of  the  State  are  the  Supreme  Court,  Superior  Court,  and 
one  County  Court  for  each  county,  the  judges  of  which  are  elected  by 
the  people.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and  four 
Associate  Justices. 

For  purposes  of  government,  North  Carolina  is  divided  into  86 
counties.  Raleigh,  in  Wake  county,  is  the  capital  of  the  State. 


604  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

HISTORY. 

The  first  attempt  of  the  English  to  settle  their  possessions  in 
America,  was  made  at  Roanoke  Island,  in  this  State,  in  1585.  The 
colonists  got  into  trouble  with  the  Indians,  and  the  settlement  was 
abandoned  the  following  year.  In  1630,  an  immense  tract  of  land, 
south  of  the  Chesapeake,  was  granted  to  Sir  Robert  Heath,  and  called 
Carolina.  As  he  did  not  colonize  it,  however,  the  grant  was  afterwards 
declared  forfeit.  In  1663,  the  territory  was  granted  by  Charles  II. 
of  England  to  a  company  of  eight  of  the  most  distinguished  noblemen 
of  England.  This  grant  embraced  the  territory  lying  between  lati- 
tudes 29°  and  36°  30'  north,  and  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans. 
The  grantees  were  given  full  powers  over  their  doirfain.  The  northern 
part  of  this  province  was,  about  this  time,  settled  by  dissenters  from 
Virginia.  It  was  called  Albemarle,  and  an  absurd  Constitution  for 
its  government  was  drawn  up  for  the  proprietors  by  John  Locke.  It 
was  for  about  twenty-five  years,  nominally,  the  supreme  law  of  the 
province,  but  was  at  length  abandoned,  because  of  the  impossibility  of 
carrying  out  its  provisions.  The  colonists,  however,  showed  a  rare 
wisdom  in  the  establishment  of  their  government.  They  carefully 
guarded  the  rights  of  property  and  of  person,  and  granted  entire  free- 
dom in  matters  of  religion.  The  colony  grew  and  prospered  slowly, 
and  in  1674  contained  only  4000  inhabitants.  Its  early  history,  how- 
ever, was  marked  by  continuous  strife  between  the  authorities  and  the 
inhabitants.  In  1695,  John  Archdale,  a  Quaker,  was  appointed  Gov- 
ernor. By  a  series  of  wise  measures,  he  succeeded  in  restoring  order 
and  quiet,  and  in  establishing  churches  and  providing  for  their  sup- 
port. During  his  administration  tar  and  turpentine  were  first  ex- 
ported. In  1711,  by  the  aid  of  troops  from  Virginia,  a  rebellion 
which  had  been  incited  by  Thomas  Cary,  who  wished  to  retain  his 
place  as  Governor,  was  suppressed.  A  little  later,  the  Tuscarora 
Indians  commenced  a  merciless  war  upon  the  settlers.  They  were 
conquered,  with  the  aid  of  the  neighboring  colonies,  in  1713,  and 
compelled  to  move  northward.  In  1729,  the  king  purchased  the 
privileges  of  the  proprietors,  and  Carolina  became  a  royal  province, 
and  was  divided  into  two  colonies,  called  North  and  South  Carolina. 
Slavery  was  introduced  into  the  colony  at  an  early  day,  and  continued 
to  form  the  basis  of  its  agricultural  industry  until  1865.  In  1765, 
the  population  was  greatly  increased  by  the  arrival  of  a  band  of  Pres- 
b3Tterians  from  the  north  of  Ireland,  who  settled  in  the  northwestern 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  605 

part  of  the  State.  They  were  followed  by  a  colony  of  Moravians, 
who  settled  between  the  Yadkin  and  Dan  rivers,  and  a  colony  of 
Highlanders,  who  settled  on  the  upper  Cape  Fear,  near  the  present 
town  of  Fayetteville. 

The  colony  actively  supported  the  measures  of  resistance  to  the 
aggressions  of  the  crown,  and  was  represented  in  the  first  Continental 
Congress,  which  met  in  1774.  The  Governor  endeavored  to  put  a 
stop  to  the  "  seditious  "  proceedings  of  the  patriots,  but  without  effect. 
A  hearty  cooperation  was  given  to  the  cause  of  the  United  Colonies, 
and  in  May,  1775,  a  convention  of  the  people  of  Mecklenburg  county 
formally  threw  off  their  allegiance  to  Great  Britain,  and  proclaimed 
the  independence  of  North  Carolina.  This  declaration  was  not 
generally  sustained  in.  the  province,  however.  In  July,  1775,  the 
Governor  took  refuge  on  board  a  man  of  war  in  Cape  Fear  River, 
from  which  he  issued  his  orders  to  his  partisans  to  join  him  on  the 
coast.  They  made  several  efforts  to  do  so,  being  very  numerous  in 
the  State.  In  the  summer  of  1775,  a  party  of  1500  loyalists,  under 
command  of  McDonald  and  McLeod,  on  their  way  to  the  coast,  were 
met  by  a  force  of  patriots,  under  Caswell  and  Moore,  and  routed,  with 
a  loss  of  850  prisoners,  including  McDonald.  McLeod  was  killed. 
The  assembly  took  vigorous  measures  to  maintain  the  cause  of  the 
colonies,  and  between  August  20th,  1775,  and  July,  1776,  ordered  nine 
regiments  to  be  raised  for  service  in  the  American  army.  In  April, 
1776,  the  delegates  of  the  colony,  in  the  Continental  Congress,  were 
ordered  to  unite  with  the  delegates  of  the  other  colonies  in  a  declara- 
tion of  independence  of  the  British  crown.  In  December,  1776,  a 
State  Constitution  was  adopted. 

North  Carolina  was  partly  exempt  from  the  horrors  of  the  war  until 
1780.  The  successes  of  the  British  forces  in  Georgia  encouraged  a 
strong  party  of  tories  to  rise  in  arms,  and  700  of  them  set  out  to  join 
the  British  at  Augusta,  Georgia.  They  were  met  and  routed  on  their 
march  by  Pickens'  partisan  band  of  South  Carolina.  Seventy  of  them 
were  tried  for  and  convicted  of  treason,  and  five  of  them  were  hanged. 
Two  parties  of  tories  rose  in  1780.  One  succeeded  iii  reaching  the 
British  outposts,  but  the  other  was  dispersed.  On  the  9th  of  October, 
1780,  the  strongest  body  of  tories,  which  had  yet  taken  arms  for 
the  king,  was  defeated  at  King's  Mountain,  by  a  force  of  militia 
under  Shelby  and  Sevier.  They  lost  150  killed,  including  their  leader, 
General  Fergusson,  and  a  large  number  wounded.  The  rest,  800  in 
number,  surrendered,  and  10  of  their  leaders  were  hanged  on  the  field. 


606  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  battle  of  Guilford  Court  House,  (March  15th,  1781,)  in  which 
General  Greene  was  defeated,  was  fought  in  this  State.  North  Caro- 
lina furnished  her  full  quota  of  men  during  the  war,  and  fairly  won 
the  privileges  which  the  successful  issue  of  the  struggle  brought  the 
States. 

In  1784,  the  State  ceded  to  the  United  States  the  territory  now 
embraced  in  the  State  of  Tennessee.  The  Constitution  of  the  United 
States  did  not  prove  acceptable  to  North  Carolina,  and  was  rejected 
by  the  Convention  in  1788,  but  was  finally  ratified  in  1789. 

The  sympathies  of  the  people  of  North  Carolina  were  with  the 
South  in  the  late  war,  and  on  the  20th  of  May,  1861,  an  ordinance  of 
secession  was  adopted,  and  the  State  withdrew  from  the  Union  and 
joined  the  Southern  Confederacy.  Large  numbers  of  troops  were 
contributed  to  the  Con  federate  army,  and  the  forts  along  the  coast  were 
occupied.  Fort  Hatteras,  at  Hatteras  Inlet,  was  taken  by  the  Federal 
fleet  in  1861,  and  Fort  Fisher  and  the  other  defences  of  the  Cape  Fear, 
by  the  army  and  navy  in  1865.  The  fall  of  Fort  Fisher  opened  the 
way  to  Wilmington,  which  was  at  once  occupied  by  the  Union  army. 
The  State  was  held  by  the  various  columns  of  Sherman's  army,  in 
1865,  which  advanced  from  Cheraw,  South  Carolina,  through  Fay- 
etteville,  and  from  Wilmington,  and  Morehead  City,  and  concentrated 
at  Goldsborough,  after  which  they  advanced  on  Raleigh.  The  Con- 
federates made  several  efforts  to  check  this  advance,  but  were  too 
weak  to  accomplish  anything.  The  battles  of  Averasboro  and  Ben- 
tonville  were  fought  by  the  armies  of  Sherman  and  Johnston,  and  the 
latter  general  surrendered  his  forces  to  the  former,  near  Raleigh,  and 
closed  the  war  in  the  State.  During  the  war,  several  severe  struggles 
occurred  on  the  coast,  the  principal  of  which  were  the  capture  of 
Roanoke  Island  by  the  Union  forces,  and  of  Plymouth  by  the  Con- 
federates. 

In  1865  a  Provisional  Governor  was  appointed  by  the  President, 
and  in  1867  the  State  became  a  part  of  the  "  Second  Military  District," 
commanded  by  Major-General  Daniel  E.  Sickles.  A  State  Conven- 
tion was  held  in  1868,  which  adopted  the  present  Constitution.  This 
instrument  was  ratified  by  the  people  at  the  polls  in  April,  and  on  the 
25th  of  June,  1868,  Congress  formally  readmitted  the  State  into  the 
Union. 

CITIES   AND    TOWNS. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Newberne,  Fayetteville,  Salis- 
bury, Charlotte,  Henderson,  Elizabeth  City,  Beaufort,  Warrenton, 
Greensboro,  Kinston,  and  Tarboro. 


NORTH    CAROLINA. 


607 


CAPITOL   AT   RALEIGH. 

RALEIGH, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Wake  county,  4  miles  west 
of  the  Neuse  River,  286  miles  southwest  of  Washington,  latitude  35° 
47'  N.,  longitude  78°  48'  W.  It  is  very  near  the  centre  of  the 
State,  and  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  country.  The  site  of  the 
city  is  elevated,  and  is  noted  for  its  healthfulness.  The  city  is  well 
built  as  a  rule,  the  central  portion  is  occupied  by  a  handsome  park, 
covering  10  acres,  and  known  as  Union  Square.  From  this  park 
four  streets,  each  100  feet  in  width,  radiate  in  as  many  directions ; 
these  streets  divide  the  city  into  four  parts,  each  of  which  is  a  square 
of  four  acres.  In  Union  Square  stands  the  State  House,  a  magnificent 
edifice,  and  one  of  the  largest  and  most  imposing  of  all  the  State 
Capitols.  It  is  built  of  granite  in  imitation  of  the  Parthenon,  is 
surrounded  with  columns  of  the  same  material,  and  is  crowned  with  a 
grand  dome.  It  is  166  feet  long  by  90  feet  wide.  Raleigh  also 
contains  the  Governor's  residence,  and  the  other  State  buildings,  the 
State  Lunatic  Asylum,  and  the  North  Carolina  Institution  for  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb,  a  Court-house,  a  jail,  5  churches,  and  about  9  news- 


608  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

paper  offices.  It  has  direct  railway  communication  with  all  parts  of 
the  State  and  the  Union. 

Raleigh  was  made  the  capital  of  North  Carolina  in  1788.  It  is 
named  after  Sir  Walter  Raleigh.  In  1870  the  population  was  7790. 

WILMINGTON, 

The  largest  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  New  Hanover  county,  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Cape  Fear  River,  just  below  the  entrance  of  the 
northeast  branch  of  the  Cape  Fear  into  the  main  stream.  It  is  34 
miles  from  the  sea,  135  miles  southeast  of  Raleigh,  and  416  miles 
southwest  of  Washington  City.  The  city  is  located  in  a  plain  ex- 
tending back  from  the  river,  and  those  of  the  streets  that  are  not 
paved  are  very  sandy.  As  a  general  rule  the  city  is  well  built.  It 
contains  several  fine  public  buildings,  a  number  of  churches,  several 
public  and  private  schools,  a  theatre,  and  about  4  newspaper  offices. 
It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  has  an  efficient  police  force.  It  is  the 
handsomest  city  in  the  State,  and  is  regarded  as  a  pleasant  place  of 
residence. 

Wilmington  is  the  chief  commercial  city  of  North  Carolina.  It  is 
connected  with  all  parts  of  the  Union  by  railway.  Lines  of  steamers 
navigate  the  Cape  Fear  to  Fayetteville,  and  steamships  ply  regularly 
between  this  port  and  the  principal  cities  of  the  Northern  and  South- 
ern States.  Large  quantities  of  rice,  cotton,  turpentine,  rosin,  tar, 
pitch,  lumber,  and  naval  stores  are  exported  annually  from  Wilming- 
ton. In  1861,  the  year  before  the  civil  war,  the  tonnage  of  the 
district  was  14,511  tons  registered,  and  10,394  licensed  and  enrolled. 
The  war  struck  a  severe  blow  at  the  commerce  of  the  city,  but  it  is 
now  rapidly  regaining  its  former  proportions.  The  city  contains  a 
number  of  steam  saw-mills,  planing  and  rice-mills,  machine  shops, 
and  distilleries.  Wilmington  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council. 
In  1870  the  population  was  13,446. 

Wilmington  was  originally  called  Newton,  and  was  given  its  present 
name  in  honor  of  an  English  nobleman  of  that  name,  who  had  secured 
Governor  Johnston  the  government  of  the  colony.  It  was  settled 
before  the  Revolution,  and  during  the  war  was  merely  an  unimportant 
village.  It  was  occupied  by  the  British  in  January,  1781,  and  held 
by  them  until  the  close  of  the  war.  During  the  civil  war  it  was 
strongly  fortified  by  the  Confederates,  and  was  one  of  the  principal 
ports  from  which  they  kept  up  their  communications  with  Europe. 
It  was  the  centre  of  a  large  blockade  trade.  It  was  blockaded  by  the 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  609 

Unites  States  fleet  during  the  war,  but  the  arrival  and  departure  of 
vessels  from  foreign  ports  continued  with  great  regularity,  until  the 
capture  of  Fort  Fisher,  and  the  defences  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cape 
Fear,  by  a  combined  attack  of  the  land  and  naval  forces  of  the  United 
States  on  the  15th  of  February,  1865.  On  the  22d  of  the  same 
month,  Wilmington  was  occupied  by  the  United  States  army,  and 
remained  in  their  possession  until  the  close  of  the  war. 

NEWBERNE, 

A  flourishing  town  in  Craven  county,  is  one  of  the  principal  ports  of 
the  State.  It  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Neuse  and  Trent 
rivers,  50  miles  from  Pamlico  Sound,  and  120  miles  southeast  of 
Raleigh.  It  is  a-fine  old  town,  substantially  built,  and  attractive  in 
appearance,  and  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  State  by  railway. 
It  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  The  Neuse  is  a  mile  wide  at  this 
point,  and  is  navigable  for  steamers  for  about  8  months  in  the  year. 
The  principal  exports  are  grain,  lumber,  turpentine,  tar,  and  naval 
stores.  Newberne  contains  the  county  buildings,  several  eh  arches, 
schools,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  In  1870  the  population  was  5849. 

Newberne  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State,  and  was  at  one 
time  the  capital  of  North  Carolina.  In  March,  1861,  it  was  attacked 
and  captured  by  the  United  States  forces,  under  General  Burnside, 
after  a  sharp  fight  of  four  hours. 

CHARLOTTE, 

In  Mecklenburg  county,  is  one  of  the  most  important  fowns  in  the 
State.  It  is  situated  on  Sugar  Creek,  158  miles  west-southwest  of 
Raleigh.  It  is  pleasantly  located  in  a  beautiful  country,  and  lies  in 
the  midst  of  the  gold  region  of  the  State.  In  1838,  a  branch  Mint 
was  established  here  by  the  United  States,  for  the  purpose  of  coining 
the  gold  mined  in  this  section.  The  war  put  an  end  to  its  operations, 
and  since  then  it  has  not  been  revived.  Charlotte  contains  several 
churches  and  schools,  2  newspaper  offices,  and  the  county  buildings. 
It  is  one  of  the  principal  railroad  centres  of  the  State,  and  possesses  a 
considerable  trade.  In  1870  the  population  was  4473. 

Charlotte  was  settled  before  the  Revolution.  The  famous  Meck- 
lenburg Convention  met  here  in  1775,  and  adopted  its  Declaration  of 
Independence.  The  British  troops  occupied  the  town  in  1780,  and  it 
was  here  that  General  Greene  relieved  Gates  of  the  command  of  thf 
American  army. 
39 


610  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

MISCELLANIES. 
THE    FIRST    ENGLISH    COLONY    IN   AMERICA. 

Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  is  entitled  to  the  honor  of  planting  the  first  English 
colony  in  America.  His  first  expedition,  on  which  he  had  expended  much  of  his 
private  fortune,  failed — from  what  cause  is  uncertain. 

The  second  expedition,  undertaken  four  years  afterwards,  was  still  more  un- 
fortunate ;  for  it  lost  to  the  world  the  gallant  and  accomplished  projector  of  the 
expedition.  Five  vessels  sailed  from  Plymouth  on  Tuesday,  the  llth  of  June, 
1583.  Two  days  afterward,  the  vice-admiral  complained  of  sickness  aboard,  and 
returned  with  the  finest  ship  in  the  fleet  to  Plymouth.  The  admiral,  nevertheless, 
continued  his  course  with  his  little  squadron,  and  took  possession,  with  the  feudal 
ceremony,  of  Newfoundland,  to  be  held  by  him  as  a  fief  of  the  crown  of  Eng- 
land, in  accordance  with  the  terms  of  his  charter. 

The  looseness  of  morals  displayed  by  the  mariners  of  that  day  is  truly  disgust- 
ing, and  increases  our  wonder  at  the  daring  of  men  who  could  venture  so  far 
from  home,  in  such  frail  barks,  with  almost  a  certainty  of  encountering  on  the 
great  highway,  in  their  fellow-men,  greater  perils  than  were  presented  by  all  the 
terrors  of  the  deep.  Robbery  by  sea  was  too  common,  and  often  committed  in 
violation  of  the  most  sacred  obligations,  even  upon  persons  engaged  in  the  very 
act  of  relieving  the  distress  of  the  depredators.  Gilbert  seems  to  have  been 
cursed  with  a  remarkably  riotous  and  insubordinate  company.  The  sick  and  dis- 
affected were  left  at  Newfoundland,  to  be  sent  home  with  the  Swallow,  and  the 
admiral  proceeded  with  his  three  remaining  barks. 

On  Tuesday,  the  20th  of  August,  they  sailed  from  the  harbor  of  St.  John's,  and 
on  the  29th,  in  about  latitude  44  degrees,  the  largest  remaining  vessel,  by  the  care- 
lessness of  the  crew,  struck,  and  went  to  pieces,  and  the  other  barks  were  forced 
by  a  high  sea  and  a  lee  shore  to  struggle  for  their  own  preservation,  which  they 
accomplished  with  difficulty — alleging,  at  the  same  time,  that  they  could  see  none 
of  the  crew  of  the  wreck  floating  upon  timbers,  but  all  seemed  to  have  gone  down 
when  the  ship  broke  up.  A  few,  however,  escaped  to  Newfoundland  in  the  ship's 
pinnace,  as  was  afterwards  discovered. 

This  calamity,  followed  by  continual  storms,  in  an  unknown  and  shoaly  sea, 
enhanced  by  an  extreme  scantiness  of  provisions,  and  want  of  clothes  and  com- 
forts in  the  two  little  barks  which  yet  remained,  induced  the  admiral,  at  the  ear- 
nest solicitation  of  his  men,  to  return  homeward.  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  was 
vehemently  persuaded  by  the  crew  of  the  Golden  Hind  to  remain  with  them  dur- 
ing the  voyage ;  but,  as  some  malicious  taunts  had  been  thrown  out  by  some 
evil-disposed  person,  accusing  him  of  being  afraid  of  the  sea,  he  chose  to  continue 
to  sail  in  his  little  pinnace,  the  Squirrel,  which  was  burdened  beyond  her  strength. 

After  the  vessels  had  left  the  Azores  to  the  south,  and  reached  the  latitude  of 
England,  they  encountered  violent  and  continued  storms.  On  Monday,  the  9th 
of  September,  the  Squirrel  was  nearly  cast  away,  but  recovered,  and  the  admiral 
was  seen  sitting  abaft  with  a  book  in  his  hand,  and  heard  to  cry  out  to  those  in 
the  Hind,  "  We  are  as  near  to  heaven  by  sea  as  by  land."  That  same  night,  at 
12  o'clock,  the  Squirrel  being  in  advance,  her  light  suddenly  disappeared,  and 
her  hardy  crew,  with  their  gallant  commander,  sleep  forever  in  the  deep.  The 
Hind  reached  Falmouth  in  safety,  but  after  encountering  imminent  peril  to  the 
last  moment. 


NORTH    CAROLINA.  611 

The  daring  spirit  of  the  mariners  of  that  day  is  amazing.  Sir  Waltf-r  Raleigh, 
the  step-brother  of  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert,  so  far  from  being  intimidated  by  the 
melancholy  fate  of  his  relative,  or  disheartened  by  the  unprofitable  and  disastrous 
termination  of  most  of  the  voyages  to  America,  undertook  in  the  very  next  year 
an  expedition  to  the  coast  of  the  present  United  'States.  He  easily  obtained  one 
of  the  usual  unlimited  patents  from  Elizabeth,  and,  leaving  the  cold  north,  with 
its  barren  snows,  its  storms,  icebergs,  and  certain  evils,  together  with  its  imagin- 
ary wealth,  he  spread  his  sails  for  the  sweet  south,  where  he  was  sure  to  find  a 
fertile  soil  and  a  delightful  climate,  though  his  ship's  company  might  not  all  be 
enriched  by  the  discovery  of  gold. 

On  the  2d  of  July  they  found  shoal  water,  "  and  smelt  so  sweet  and  strong  a 
smell,  as  if  .they  had  been  in  the  mJdst  of  some  delicate  garden  abounding  with 
all  kinds  of  odoriferous  flowers." 

On  the  13th,  they  entered  Ocracock  Inlet,  on  the  coast  of  the  present  State  of 
North  Carolina,  and  landed  on  Wocoken  Island.  They  commenced  an  inter- 
course with  the  natives,  who  proved  to  be  bold,  confiding,  intelligent,  and  honor- 
able to  their  friends,  but  treacherous,  revengeful,  and  cruel  towards  their  enemies. 

The  English  explored  a  little  the  surrounding  islands  and  bays,  and  returned 
home  in  September,  carrying  with  them  two  natives,  Manteo  and  Wanchese. 
The  glowing  description  given  by  the  adventurers,  on  their  return,  of  the  beauty 
of  the  country,  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  pleasantness  of  the  climate,  delighted 
the  queen,  and  induced  her  to  name  the  country  of  which  she  had  taken  posses- 
sion, Virginia,  in  commemoration  of  her  unmarried  life. 

It  might  be  expected  that  so  favorable  an  account  would  soon  lead  to  a  new 
expedition.  Accordingly,  another  was  prepared  for  the  succeeding  year,  con- 
sisting of  seven  vessels.  Ralph  Lane  was  appointed  by  Raleigh,  Governor  of  the 
colony,  which  consisted  of  108  persons.  Sir  Richard  Grenville  took  command 
of  the  fleet,  and  several  learned  and  accomplished  men  attended  the  expedition, 
one  of  whom  has  transmitted  to  posterity  many  interesting  particulars  of  the  na- 
ture of  the  country,  and  the  habits,  manners,  and  government  of  its  inhabitants. 

The  English  soon  began  to  maltreat  the  harmless,  unpretending,  and  simple 
natives,  and  they,  on  the  other  hand,  to  grow  jealous  of  the  power  of  the  over- 
bearing strangers.  They  soon  learned  the  inordinate  passion  of  the  newcomers 
for  gold,  and,  taking  advantage  of  their  credulity,  inflicted  upon  them  the  labor 
of  many  fruitless  expeditions  in  search  of  pretended  mines — hoping,  at  the  same 
time,  by  these  divisions,  to  weaken  the  power  of  the  little  colony  to  such  a  degree 
that  they  might  be  able  to  destroy  it  in  detachment ;  but  the  English  were  too 
cautious  for  this,  and  went  too  short  a  distance,  and  in  force  too  powerful  for  the 
Indians  to  encounter  with  the  great  disparity  of  arms.  The  greatest  advantage 
which  accrued  from  these  expeditions,  and  indeed  from  the  whole  attempt  at  a 
settlement,  was  the  discovery  of  Chesapeake  Bay. 

The  little  colony,  finding  no  gold,' and  receiving  no  supplies  from  England, 
had  begun  to  despond,  when  most  unexpectedly  Sir  Francis  Drake  arrived,  on 
his  return  from  his  expedition  against  the  Spaniards  in  South  America,  with  a 
fleet  of  23  ships.  The  sagacity  of  Drake  perceived  in  a  moment  what  was  neces- 
sary for  the  colony,  and  his  generosity  supplied  them  with  provisions,  vessels, 
and  other  things  necessary  to  maintain  their  position,  extend  their  researches, 
ana,  if  necessary,  to  return  to  England  ;  but  the  accomplishment  of  his  purpose 
was  defeated  by  a  violent  storm  which  suddenly  arose,  and  nearly  wrecked  his 
whole  fleet,  driving  the  vessel  of  provisions  intended  for  the  colony  to  sea,  and 


612  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

destroying  the  vessels  which  had  been  set  apart  to  be  left  for  their  use.  He  would 
have  supplied  others  ;  but  the  colony,  with  their  Governor  at  their  head,  earnestly 
requesting  permission  to  return  to  England,  he  complied  with  their  wishes. 
Thus  terminated  the  first  English  settlement  in  America. 

This  little  colony,  during  its  sojourn  with  the  Indians,  had  acquired  something 
of  their  fondness  for  the  use  of  tobacco,  and  learned  to  regard  it  with  almost  the 
same  superstitious  reverence,  as  a  powerful  medicinal  agent.  Upon  their  return, 
they  introduced  the  use  of  this  plant  into  England  ;  and  a  weed  at  first  disgust- 
ing and  nauseating  to  all  who  use  it,  has  become  gradually  the  favorite  luxury 
(and  indeed  with  many  a  necessary  of  life)  of  all  classes  of  society,  and  of  both 
the  young  and  the  old  throughout  the  world — and  this,  after  experience  has 
proved  that  in  most  cases  it  is  an  injury  rather  than  a  benefit  to  the  health. 

THE    GREATEST   AMERICAN. 

The  largest  man  on  record  was  Miles  Darden,  a  native  of  North  Carolina,  who 
was  born  in  1798,  and  who  died  in  Tennessee  in  1857.  He  was  7  feet  and  6 
inches  high,  and  in  1845  weighed  872  pounds.  At  his  death  he  weighed  a  little 
over  1000  pounds.  In  1839,  his  coat  was  buttoned  around  three  men,  each  of 
them  weighing  over  200  pounds,  who  walked  together  in  it  across  the  Square  at 
Lexington.  In  1850,  it  required  13£  yards  of  cloth,  1  yard  wide,  to  make  him  a 
coat.  Until  1853  he  was  active  and  lively,  and  able  to  bear  labor  ;  but  from  that 
time  was  compelled  to  stay  at  home,  or  be  hauled  about  in  a  two-horse  wagon. 
His  coffin  was  8  feet  long,  35  inches  deep,  32  inches  across  the  breast,  18  inches 
across  the  head,  and  14  inches  across  the  feet.  It  required  24  yards  of  black  vel- 
vet to  cover  the  sides  and  lid  of  the  coffin.  Miles  Darden  was  twice  married,  and 
his  children  are  very  large,  though  it  is  probable  that  none  of  them  will  ever  attain 
the  gigantic  weight  and  size  of  their  father. 


SOUTH    CAROLINA. 

Area, 34,000  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 703,708 

(Whites,  291,388 ;  Negroes,  412,320) 

Population  in  1870, 705,606 

THE  State  of  South  Carolina,  one  of  the  13  original  States  of  the 
Union,  lies  between  32°  and  35°  10'  N.  latitude,  and  between 
78°  35'  and  83°  30'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  and 
northeast  by  North  Carolina,  on  the  southeast  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
and  on  the  west  by  Georgia.  The  State  is  almost  triangular  in  shape. 
The  Savannah  River  forms  the  western  boundary,  and  separates  it 
from  Georgia ;  and  the  coast  line  is  about  200  miles  long. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

Along  the  coast,  and  for  about  100  miles  inland,  the  surface  is  low 
and  sandy.  Large  swamps  occupy  the  lower  part  of  the  State,  and  in 
this  district  rice  is  extensively  cultivated.  A  chain  of  low  islands  of 
great  fertility  and  beauty  extends  along  the  coast,  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  a  series  of  shallow  lagoons,  through  which  navigation  is 
maintained  between  Charleston  and  Florida,  safe  from  the  violence 
and  dangers  of  the  sea.  These  islands  extend  down  the  Georgia  and 
Florida  coast,  and  produce  the  famous  "  Sea  Island  Cotton."  About 
100  miles  inland,  a  large  sandy  tract  occurs,  and  is  known  as  the 
"  Midland  country."  Beyond  this  is  the  "  Ridge,"  a  sudden  eleva- 
tion, which  is  overtopped  in  the  northwest  by  the  Blue  Ridge  Moun- 
tains, which  cross  this  part  of  the  State,  and  attain  their  greatest 
height  in  Table  Mountain,  4000  feet  above  the  sea. 

"  From  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Pedee  River  to  that  of  the  Savan- 
nah, the  coast  of  South  Carolina  is  lined  with  a  series  of  bays,  sounds, 

613 


614  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  lagoons,  which,  though  mostly  shallow,  have  sufficient  depth  to 
allow  of  an  extensive  coasting  navigation.  Commencing  at  the  Great 
Pedee,  and  proceeding  south,  we  have  Winyaw  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of 
that  river ;  then,  in  order,  Bull's  Bay,  Charleston  Harbor,  St.  Helena 
Sound,  and  Port  Royal  Entrance,  with  a  number  of  smaller  inlets. 
The  harbor  of  Beaufort  is  much  the  best  of  these,  admitting  vessels 
drawing  1 1  feet  water ;  Charleston  Harbor  is  obstructed  by  a  danger- 
ous bar;  St.  Helena  Sound  is  the  most  capacious  of  these  inlets,  but 
is  beset  with  shoals.  Georgetown,  at  the  head  of  Winyaw  Bay,  can 
only  be  reached  by  vessels  of  small  draught ;  and  Stono  Inlet,  south 
of  Charleston,  has  but  10  feet  water  on  the  bar.  The  Santee  River, 
with  its  main  affluents,  the  Congaree  and  Wateree,  passes  almost  di- 
rectly through  the  middle  of  the  State.  It  is  about  100  miles  from 
the  junction  of  the  Congaree  and  Wateree  to  the  mouth  of  the  Santee, 
and  about  300  miles  from  their  confluence  to  their  sources  in  North 
Carolina.  The  Great  Pedee  enters  the  State  from  North  Carolina 
(where  it  bears  the  name  of  Yadkin),  and  courses  through  the  north- 
east part  of  South  Carolina,  about  150  miles,  into  Winyaw  Bay;  the 
Saluda  and  Broad  rivers  drain  the  northwest  of  the  State,  and  unite 
to  form  the  Congaree ;  the  Broad  River  rises  in  the  west  of  North 
Carolina ;  the  Edisto  and  Combahee  drain  the  southwest  of  the  State, 
and  flow  into  the  Atlantic  after  courses  of  150  to  200  miles;  Lynch 's 
Creek  is  a  tributary  from  the  west,  and  Wacamaw  and  Little  Pedee 
from  the  east  of  the  Great  Pedee ;  all  have  their  sources  in  North 
Carolina.  The  larger  streams  run  in  a  southeast  direction,  and  fur- 
nish an  inland  navigation  of  about  2400  miles,  apart  from  the  creeks 
and  inlets  of  the  sea.  The  Savannah  River  can  be  navigated  by 
steamboats  to  Hamburg,  and  for  smaller  boats  still  higher.  The 
Wacamaw  may  be  ascended  12  miles,  the  Great  Pedee  200  miles,  the 
Congaree  and  the  Wateree  about  the  same  distances  by  steamboats. 
All  these  rivers  are  boatable  above  the  distances  mentioned,  for  keel- 
boats.  Greenville  is  the  only  district  in  the  State  without  the  advan- 
tage of  navigation.  Water-courses  abound  in  all  the  districts  favor- 
able for  mill-sites."  * 

MINERALS. 

The  Agricultural  Bureau  of  the  United  States  makes  the  following 
statement  of  the  mineral  resources  of  the  State  in  1868  : 

"  Iron  of  superior  quality,  in  great  abundance,  is  found  in  Spartan- 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1814. 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  615 

burg,  but  only  used  for  plantation  purposes ;  ore  is  reported  in  Abbe- 
ville. Gold  is  found  in  Spartanburg,  in  Pickens  (where  a  company  is 
successfully  at  work,  near  Walhalla),  in  Abbeville  (where  '  Horn's 
gold  mine/  discovered  in  1834,  has  already  yielded  $1,000,000,  and 
is  still  worked  with  profit) ;  and  in  York  some  mines  have  lately  been 
sold  to  Northern  capitalists,  including  some  California  miners.  Lead, 
also,  is  found  in  Spartan  burg,  copper  and  silver  in  Pickens,  very  pure 
ochre  in  Abbeville,  and  immense  beds  of  kaolin  and  superior  buhr- 
stone.  Marl  in  Barn  well  contains  a  large  percentage  of  lime.  This 
district  has  had  several  manufactories  of  cotton,  paper,  etc.,  in  profit- 
able operation,  and  some  are  yet  running  successfully." 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  South  Carolina  corresponds  with  that  of  the  south 
of  France,  and  of  Italy.  The  winter  is  mild  and  short,  the  spring  is 
pleasant,  and  the  heats  of  the  summer  are  tempered  by  the  cool  sea- 
breezes  which  sweep  over  the  State. 

SOIL  AND   PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  of  the  State  is  divided  into  six  varieties;  1.  The  Tide 
Swamp,  which  is  devoted  exclusively  to  the  culture  of  rice.  2.  The 
Inland  Swamp,  in  which  grow  rice,  cotton,  corn,  and  peas.  3.  The 
Salt  Marsh,  in  which  grows  the  long  cotton.  4.  The  oak  and  pine, 
in  which  grow  long  cotton,  corn,  potatoes,  etc.  5.  The  oak  and 
hickory,  growing  short  cotton  and  corn.  6.  The  Pine  Barrens, 
devoted  to  fruits,  corn,  etc. 

A  publication,  recently  issued  by  the  State  authorities,  gives  the 
following  account  of  the  productions  of  South  Carolina : 

"  The  usual  productions  of  this  State  are  cotton,  the  long  and  short 
staple,  rice,  both  swamp  and  upland,  tobacco,  indigo,  sugar,  wheat, 
rye,  corn,  oats,  millet,  barley,  buckwheat,  peas,  beans,  sorghum,  broom- 
corn,  sunflower,  guinea  corn,  sweet  potatoes,  and  Irish  potatoes. 
Hemp,  flax,  and  hops  grow  luxuriantly.  Of  fruits,  our  orchards  will 
show  apples,  pears,  quinces,  plums,  peaches,  apricots,  nectarines,  cher- 
ries, oranges,  lemons,  olives,  figs,  pomegranates,  and  the  American 
date,  the  persimmons,  of  many  kinds.  Of  berries,  we  have  the  mul- 
berry, raspberry,  strawberry,  blackberry,  huckleberry,  sparkleberry, 
and  elderberry.  Of  nuts,  we  have  the  walnut,  pecan  nut,  chestnut, 
hickory,  hazel-nut,  and  chincapin.  The  grape  grows  luxuriantly  in 


616 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


RICE  FIELDS,  SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


every  portion  of  the  State.  In  our  woods  and  swamps  enormous 
vines  are  found,  extending  to  the  topmost  branches  of  the  tallest 
forest-trees.  Around  Aiken,  about  500  acres  are  now  planted  in 
grapes,  and  the  quantity  increases  annually.  The  vines  are  healthy 
and  vigorous.  The  silkworm  thrives  well  with  us,  and  the  Morus 
multicaulis  flourishes  without  any  more  care  or  attention  than  any  of 
our  forest-trees,  and  the  growth  is  so  rapid  that  the  leaves  can  be  used 
the  second  year  after  planting.  The  tea-plant  is  successfully  culti- 
vated. Of  garden  products,  we  have  turnips,  carrots,  parsnips,  arti- 
chokes, mustard,  benne,  rhubarb,  arrow-root,  water-melons,  musk- 
melons,  cucumbers,  cabbages,  kale,  salads,  peppers,  squashes,  tomatoes, 
pumpkins,  onions,  leeks,  okra,  cauliflower,  beans,  peas,  radishes,  celery, 
etc.,  etc. — in  short,  almost  whatever  can  be  raised  in  any  garden  in 
the  world.  Of  flowers,  we  have  in  our  gardens  whatever  the  earth 
will  yield  in  beauty  and  fragrance.  The  rose  is  a  hedge-plant,  the 
japonica  blossoms  in  the  open  air  throughout  the  winter,  the  jasmine 
perfumes  our  thickets,  and  the  violet  borders  our  roads." 

In  1869,  the  principal  products  of  the  State  were  as  follows: 


Pounds  of  rice  (estimated), 
Bales  of  cotton,    .... 
Bushels  of  wheat, 


60,000,000 
220,000 
920,000 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  61t 

Bushels  of  corn, 8,100,000 

"  peas  and  beans, 1,728,074 

"  sweet  potatoes  (estimated), .  .  .  3,000,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 3,177,934 

The  agriculture  of  South  Carolina  was  much  damaged  by  the  war. 
Many  of  the  inland  plantations,  and  nearly  all  along  the  coast  were 
ruined,  and  the  abolition  of  slavery  produced  serious  losses  by  greatly 
demoralizing  the  only  class  of  laborers  available.  The  State  is  slowly 
recovering  from  its  misfortunes.  It  has,  however,  a  serious  difficulty 
to  contend  against — the  majority  of  its  inhabitants  are  negroes. 
Whatever  we  may  hope  for  them  in  the  future,  the  blacks  are  now  in 
a  wretched  condition  of  ignorance  and  degradation,  and  it  will  require 
all  the  energy  and  genius  of  the  Palmetto  State  to  rise  to  the  position 
to  which  it  is  naturally  entitled. 

COMMERCE. 

The  foreign  trade  of  South  Carolina  was  very  large  previous  to  the 
war,  owing  to  her  heavy  exports  of  cotton  and  rice,  much  of  which 
was  also  shipped  to  the  Northern  States.  The  principal  port  is 
Charleston.  In  1860,  the  total  exports  of  the  State  amounted  to 
$21,205,337,  and  the  imports  to  $1,569,570. 

MANUFACTURES. 

Agriculture  being  almost  the  exclusive  pursuit  of  the  people,  manu- 
factures are  comparatively  neglected  in  South  Carolina,  though  the 
northwestern  part  of  the  State  is  admirably  suited  to  them,  having  a 
salubrious  climate,  and  an  abundance  of  fine  water-power.  In  1860, 
the  aggregate  capital  of  the  manufactures  of  this  State  was  $5,610,000. 
The  annual  product  of  manufactures  and  mining  was  $6,800,000. 

"With  the  raw  material  on  the  spot,"  says  a  recent  State  publica- 
tion, "  and  water-power  and  fuel  everywhere  in  abundance,  no  better 
opening  for  the  establishment  of  factories  can  anywhere  be  found  than 
in  South  Carolina.  This  must  be  obvious  to  all  reflecting  minds. 
We  have  the  cotton,  the  most  valuable  manufacturing  material  in  the 
world,  growing  in  fields  on  the  borders  of  which  the  stream  passes  by, 
where  the  mill  would  find  an  effective  site  •  we  have  the  iron  ore  in 
abundance,  and  the  fuel  near  at  hand,  to  make  our  own  metal  and 
build  our  own  machinery ;  we  have  the  clay  for  stoneware  and  pot- 
tery, the  fine  kaolin  for  porcelain,  and  the  silica  for  glass,  in  many 
portions  of  the  State ;  we  have  the  fine-grained  and  hard  woods  in 


618  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

our  forests  for  all  the  branches  of  cabinet-making ;  and  we  have  an 
excellent  and  ever-ready  market  for  all  our  produce.  The  port  of 
Charleston  is  connected  by  a  system  of  railroads  with  all  parts  of  the 
State  and  the  whole  country,  the  harbor  is  safe  and  capacious,  and  is 
visited  by  vessels  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  In  addition,  we  have 
the  port  of  Georgetown,  and  the  magnificent  Port  Royal,  situated  in  a 
rich  and  fertile  region,  enjoying  a  pleasant  and  salubrious  climate, 
deep  and  capacious  enough  for  the  manoeuvres  of  the  largest  war- vessels 
in  the  world." 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  railroads  of  South  Carolina  were  almost  destroyed  by  the  con- 
tending armies  during  the  war,  but  are  now  slowly  but  surely  recov- 
ering from  their  prostration.  In  1872,  there  were  1000  miles  of  com- 
pleted railroads  in  the  State,  constructed  at  a  cost  of  $25,208,000. 

"  A  glance  at  the  map,"  continues  the  publication  from  which  we 
have  just  quoted,  "will  show  that  a  railroad  station  is  within  easy 
reach  of  every  corner  of  the  State,  The  Charleston  and  Savannah 
Railroad  connects  us  with  all  the  principal  Southern  cities.  The 
South  Carolina  Railroad  runs  up  to  Columbia,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  and  by  a  branch  to  Augusta,  from  thence  forming  a  chain  of 
connections  with  the  Western  States.  The  Greenville  and  Columbia 
Railroad,  by  its  main  line  and  several  branches,  reaches  every  western 
and  northwestern  section  of  the  State,  and  by  its  connection  with  the 
Blue  Ridge  Railroad  (which  for  the  present  terminates  at  the  German 
town  and  settlement  of  Walhalla,  in  Pickens  District),  will  in  a  few 
years  unite  us  with  Cincinnati,  in  Ohio.  The  Columbia  arid  Char- 
lotte Railroad  traverses  the  northern  sections  of  the  State,  and,  by  the 
Danville  Railroad,  terminates  in  Richmond,  Virginia.  The  North- 
eastern Railroad  connects  with  the  Wilmington  and  Manchester  Rail- 
road, and  is  one  of  the  lines  of  travel  from  Charleston  to  New  York. 
Thus  it  will  be  seen,  that  this  State  has  a  complete  net- work  of  inter- 
communication, whilst  connecting  with  every  main  avenue  of  the 
business  and  travel  of  this  continent  by  direct  lines." 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  there  were  11  colleges,  158  academies  and  other  schools, 
and  581  public  schools  in  the  State.  The  University  of  South  Caro- 
lina, at  Columbia,  was  an  institution  of  high  reputation,  and  was 
enjoying  great  prosperity  in  1860.  The  war  caused  the  discontiim- 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  619 

ance  of  all  the  schools,  many  of  them  having  their  buildings  burned, 
and  since  the  restoration  of  peace  the  State  has  been  too  poor  to  do 
much  for  the  cause  of  education. 

The  system  of  public  instruction  has  been  revised  under  the  new 
Constitution,  and  is  placed  in  charge  of  a  State  Superintendent,  who 
is  chosen  by  the  people  at  each  general  election  for  State  officers. 
Each  county  or  district  is  in  charge  of  one  School  Commissioner, 
chosen  biennially  by  the  people  of  the  district.  These  Commissioners 
constitute  a  State  Board  of  Education,  of  which  the  State  Superin- 
tendent is  ex-officio  Chairman.  The  Legislature  is  required  by  the 
new  Constitution  to  provide  a  uniform  system  of  public  schools.  At- 
tendance at  these  or  at  private  schools  is  made  compulsory  upon  all 
children  between  the  ages  of  9  and  16  years,  except  in  case  of  bodily 
or  mental  infirmity.  The  State  is  also  required  to  levy  taxes  for  the 
support  of  these  schools,  and  for  the  support  of  a  Normal  School, 
a  State  University,  an  Agricultural  College,  schools  for  the  Deaf, 
Dumb,  and  Blind,  and  a  State  Reform  School.  A  permanent  school 
fund  is  also  established  for  this  purpose. 

In  1870,  the  number  of  volumes  in  the  libraries  of  this  State  was 
546,244.  Many  libraries  were  destroyed  during  the  war. 

PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  is  provided  with  a  Penitentiary  and  Lunatic  Asylum, 
and  the  Constitution  makes  a  liberal  provision  for  their  support,  and 
for  the  establishment  and  maintenance  of  such  other  charitable  and 
penal  institutions  as  may  be  found  necessary. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  the  value  of  church  property  in  this  State  was  $3,276,982. 
Much  was  destroyed  during  the  war,  the  heaviest  losses  occurring  in 
Charleston  and  Columbia,  where  nearly  all  the  church  buildings  were 
utterly  demolished. 

FINANCES. 

On  the  31st  of  October,  1870,  the  total  debt  of  the  State  was 
$7,665,908.  The  expenditures  of  the  treasury  from  the  15th  of  May 
to  the  15th  of  November,  1868,  were  $409,688,  and  the  receipts  for 
the  same  period  were  $435,373. 


620  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

There  were  at  the  same  time  3  National  Banks,  with  a  capital  of 
$685,000,  doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  the  State  was  adopted  in  1868.  Every 
male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  21  years  old,  without  regard  to 
race,  color,  or  former  condition,  who  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year 
and  in  the  county  six  months,  is  a  voter.  The  disfranchised  are 
paupers,  convicts,  persons  of  unsound  mind,  and  persons  disqualified 
by  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor  and  Lieutenant-Governor, 
who  must  be  30  years  old,  and  two  years  a  resident  of  the  State. 
They  are  elected  by  the  people  biennially.  The  other  executive  offi- 
cers are  a  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer  and  Receiver-General,  Auditor, 
and  Attorney-General,  elected  by  the  people  for  four  years.  The 
Legislature  consists  of  a  Senate  (of  31  members)  and  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives (of  124  members).  The  Senators  are  elected  for  four  years, 
one-half  retiring  every  two  years.  Representatives  are  chosen  bi- 
ennially. 

"The  judicial  power  of  the  State  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court;  in 
two  Circuit  Courts,  viz  :  a  Court  of  Common  Pleas,  having  civil  juris- 
diction, and  a  Court  of  General  Sessions,  with  criminal  jurisdiction 
only  ;  in  Probate  Courts,  and  in  justices  of  the  peace.  The  General 
Assembly  may  also  establish  such  municipal  and  other  inferior  courts 
as  may  lie  deemed  necessary.  The  Supreme  Court  is  to  consist  of  a 
Chief  Justice  and  two  Associate  Justices,  chosen  by  a  joint  vote  of  the 
General  Assembly  for  a  term  of  six  years.  The  Circuit  Judges  are 
to  be  chosen  in  the  same  manner,  and  hold  office  four  years.  A  Court 
of  Probate  is  to  be  established  in  each  county,  the  judge  of  which  shall 
be  chosen  by  a  vote  of  the  people  for  a  term  of  two  years.  Justices 
of  the  peace  are  elected  by  the  people,  and  have  jurisdiction  of  all 
cases  where  the  amount  involved  does  not  exceed  one  hundred  dollars." 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Columbia. 

For  purposes  of  government,  the  State  is  divided  into  30  districts 
or  counties. 

HISTORY. 

The  State  was  first  settled  by  a  band  of  French  Huguenots  under 
Jean  Ribault,  who,  in  May,  1562,  planted  a  colony  on  a  beautiful 
island  in  a  spacious  inlet,  which  he  named  Port  Royal.  The  sur- 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  621 

rounding  country  he  called  Carolina,  in  honor  of  Charles  IX.,  of 
France.  He  left  26  persons  in  this  colony,  and  went  back  to  Europe ; 
but  the  settlers  became  dissatisfied,  mutinied,  killed  their  command- 
ant, abandoned  the  enterprise,  and  sailed  for  France  in  a  rude  vessel 
which  they  had  built.  Their  vessel  proved  a  failure,  and,  after  suf- 
fering great  hardships  and  privations,  they  were  rescued  by  an  English 
ship,  and  carried  to  Europe.  A  permanent  colony  was  planted  at 
Port  Royal  by  the  English  in  1670.  The  settlers  removed,  in  1671, 
to  the  site  of  old  Charleston,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Ashley  River, 
and  in  1680  again  removed  to  the  point  of  land  between  the  Cooper 
and  Ashley  rivers,  and  founded  the  present  city  of  Charleston.  The 
province  grew  rapidly,  and  under  the  general  name  of  Carolina  was 
united  with  the  settlements  in  North  Carolina,  under  one  Govern- 
ment, the  nature  of  which  we  have  already  described  in  the  last 
chapter.  In  1729,  the  king  bought  out  the  proprietors,  and  South 
Carolina  came  into  existence  as  a  separate  royal  province.  By  this 
time  it  had  been  well  settled  by  a  considerable  number  of  French 
Huguenots,  and  Swiss,  Irish,  and  German  emigrants.  The  colony 
was  greatly  harassed  during  its  infancy  by  the  savages,  and  united 
with  Georgia  in  putting  a  stop  to  the  depredations  of  the  Spaniards, 
who  had  settled  Florida  and  were  guilty  of  many  outrages  upon  their 
English  neighbors. 

The  province  was  one  of  the  most  prominent  in  the  measures  of 
resistance  to  British  aggression  adopted  by  the  colonies,  and  in  the 
summer  of  1775  repulsed  a  British  fleet  under  Sir  Peter  Parker, 
which  sought  to  force  an  entrance  into  Charleston  Harbor.  The  State 
was  the  scene  of  many  desperate  and  bloody  encounters  during  the 
war.  Charleston  was  taken  by  the  British,  who  held  the  country  for 
nearly  two  years,  during  which  the  partisan  bands  of  Marion,  Sumter, 
and  Pickens  maintained  a  constant  and  bloody  guerilla  warfare 
against  them,  and  against  their  Tory  adherents,  of  which  the  State 
contained  large  numbers.  The  battles  of  Carnden,  Eutaw  Springs, 
and  the  Cowpens  were  fought  in  South  Carolina,  which  State  main- 
tained its  ancient  reputation  for  bravery  and  patriotism  throughout 
the  whole  struggle. 

The  original  Constitution  of  the  State  was  adopted  in  March,  1776, 
and  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States  was  ratified  in  May,  1798. 

The  State  grew  rapidly  in  wealth  and  importance  after  the  forma- 
tion of  the  Federal  Union.  Negro  slavery  increased  rapidly.  The 
number  of  slaves  in  1790  was  107,094,  and  in  1860,  402,406,  while 


622  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  white  population  had  increased  only  107  per  cent,  in  70  years, 
being  140,178  in  1790,  and  291,388  in  1860.  In  the  latter  year,  the 
free  and  slave  negroes  constituted  nearly  60  per  cent,  of  the  whole 
population. 

Being  a  strictly  agricultural  community,  the  State  was  naturally 
averse  to  the  high  tariff  system  so  popular  in  the  manufacturing  States 
of  the  North,  and,  as  we  have  seen  elsewhere  in  this  book,  carried  its 
opposition  to  the  tariff  measures  of  the  General  Government  to  the 
verge  of  open  war.  From  that  time  it  became  the  leader  of  the 
extreme  States'  Rights  party  of  the  South,  and  upon  various  occasions 
threatened  to  secede  from  the  Union. 

In  December,  1860,  after  the  election  of  Abraham  Lincoln  to  the 
Presidency,  the  State  seceded  from  the  Union.  The  ordinance  of 
secession  was  adopted  by  the  State  Convention,  on  the  20th  of 
December,  1860.  The  forts,  arsenals,  and  public  property  of  the 
United  States  in  South  Carolina  were  seized  and  occupied  by  the 
State  forces,  except  Fort  Sumter,  in  Charleston  Harbor,  which  was 
held  by  a  detachment  of  the  Federal  army.  Hostilities  began  in  the 
bombardment  and  capture  of  this  fort  by  the  Confederates  in  April, 
1861. 

During  the  war  Charleston  was  besieged  by  the  United  States  army, 
and  its  harbor  blockaded  by  the  navy.  Several  severe  battles  occur- 
red in  its  immediate  vicinity,  but  all  the  efforts  of  the  fleet  to  reduce 
its  defences  were  repulsed.  In  the  summer  of  1863,  the  defences  of 
James  Island  were  captured,  and  from  that  time  the  city  was  sub- 
jected to  a  severe  bombardment,  which  laid  a  large  part  of  it  in  ruins. 
It  was  held  by  the  Confederates  until  Sherman's  movements  com- 
pelled them  to  evacuate  it.  As  they  left  it  they  set  fire  to  it,  and 
nearly  the  whole  city  was  destroyed.  It  was  at  once  occupied  by  the 
Union  troops.  Port  Royal  Harbor  was  the  scene  of  a  severe  naval 
bombardment  in  the  fall  of  1861.  The  Confederate  forts  defending 
the  entrance  were  captured,  and  the  harbor  and  its  islands  held  during 
the  war.  After  reaching  Savannah  at  the  close  of  his  march  from 
Atlanta,  Sherman  moved  his  army  through  this  State,  from  the 
neighborhood  of  Port  Royal  to  beyond  Cheraw.  His  troops  destroyed 
immense  quantities  of  property,  and  damaged  the  State  to  a  terrible 
extent.  The  capital,  Columbia,  was  fired  (the  origin  of  the  fire  still 
remaining  a  disputed  question)  and  almost  entirely  destroyed. 

After  the  close  of  the  war,  a  Provisional  Government  was  appointed 
by  the  President.  A  State  Convention  was  held,  a  new  Constitution 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  623 

framed,  and  an  excellent  system  of  Government  established.  Con- 
gress, however,  denied  the  right  of  the  President  to  make  such 
changes,  and  in  1867  abolished  the  new  order  of  affairs,  and  organized 
the  State  into  a  military  district,  the  command  of  which  was  given  to 
Major-General  Daniel  E.  Sickles.  In  August,  1867,  General  Sickles 
was  removed,  and  General  Canby  put  in  his  place. 

In  January,  1868,  a  State  Convention  met  at  Charleston  and 
adopted  a  Constitution,  which  was  ratified  by  the  people,  and  on  the 
25th  of  June,  1868,  the  State  was  readmitted  into  the  Union. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns,  besides  the  capital,  are  Charleston, 
Georgetown,  Camden,  Greenville,  Orangeburg,  and  Winnsboro. 

COLUMBIA, 

The  capital  and  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Richland  district, 
or  county,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Congaree,  just  below  the  confluence 
of  the  Broad  and  Saluda  rivers.  Latitude  33°  57'  N.,  longitude  81° 
7'  W.  It  is  124  miles  north-northwest  of  Charleston,  and  500  miles 
southwest  of  Washington. 

Columbia  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  the  Union.  It  is 
handsomely  built,  its  streets  are  well  paved,  and  are  broad,  straight, 
and  shaded  with  stately  trees,  among  which  the  magnolia  and  the  live 
oak  are  conspicuous.  It  is  located  on  the  bluffs  of  the  Congaree,  a 
few  miles  below  the  falls  of  that  stream,  and  is  noted  for  the  elegant 
mansions  and  exquisite  gardens  with  which  it  abounds.  The  vicinity 
of  the  city  is  one  of  the  most  highly  cultivated  portions  of  the  Union, 
and  is  noted  for  its  model  plantations,  as  well  as  for  its  fine  scenery. 

The  public  buildings  are  among  the  handsomest  in  the  country. 
The  State  House  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  170  feet  long  and  60  feet 
wide,  and  cost  nearly  three  millions  of  dollars.  The  Insane  Asylum 
is  under  the  control  of  the  State.  It  is  a  splendid  building  and  is 
richly  endowed.  The  city  buildings  are  handsome. 

Columbia  contains  a  number  of  fine  public  and  private  schools. 
The  South  Carolina  College,  sometimes  called  the  University  of  South 
Carolina,  is  a  flourishing  institution.  Here  are  located  a  theological 
school  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  College. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  pure  water,  and  is  lighted  with  gas.  It  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  contains  a  number  of  churches 
and  3  newspaper  offices.  In  1870  the  population  was  9298. 


624  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Columbia  is  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  Congaree 
River,  and  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  Union  by  railways.  It 
is  the  centre  of  a  large  cotton  trade. 

The  city  was  occupied  by  the  forces  of  General  Sherman  on  the 
17th  of  February,  1865.  On  the  same  day  a  disastrous  fire  occurred, 
which  laid  a  large  portion  of  the  city  in  ashes. 

CHARLESTON, 

The  largest  city  and  the  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Charles- 
ton district,  or  county,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ashley  and  Cooper 
rivers,  which  unite  to  form  its  harbor.  It  is  7  miles  from  the  sea, 
124  miles  south-southeast  of  Columbia,  and  540  miles  southwest  of 
Washington.  The  city  is  built  upon  a  plateau  elevated  about  12  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  water.  The  tides  rise  to  a  height  of  6  feet, 
and  sweep  by  the  city  with  a  strong  current,  thus  contributing  greatly 
to  its  healthful  ness. 

The  Cooper  and  Ashley  rivers  are  from  30  to  40  feet  deep,  the 
former  is  4200,  and  the  latter  6300  feet  wide.  The  harbor  is  spacious, 
and  will  admit  vessels  drawing  17  feet  water.  "The  coup  d'oeil  is 
imposing  and  highly  picturesque.  Though  the  grounds  are  low, 
hardly  more  than  12  feet  above  high  water,  the  effect  is  fine;  and  the 
city,  like  Venice,  seems,  at  a  little  distance,  to  be  absolutely  rising  out 
of  the  sea.  The  bay  is  almost  completely  land-locked,  making  the 
harborage  and  roadstead  as  secure  as  they  are  ample.  The  adjuncts 
contribute  to  form  a  tout  ensemble  of  much  beauty.  Directly  at  the 
entrance  of  the  city  stands  Castle  Pinckney,  a  fortress  which  covers  an 
ancient  shoal.  A  little  south  of  Pinckney  is  Fort  Ripley,  a  small 
square  work,  built  of  Palmetto  logs,  and  filled  with  paving  stones, 
built  in  1862.  On  the  sea-line  rises  Fort  Moultrie,  famous,  as  Fort 
Sullivan,  in  beating  off,  and  nearly  destroying,  the  British  fleet,  under 
Sir  Peter  Parker,  in  ]  776.  On  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  same 
island  (Sullivan's),  on  which  Fort  Moultrie  stands,  may  yet  be  traced 
the  outline  of  the  fortress  which,  under  Colonel  Thompson,  with  700 
Carolina  rifles,  defeated  Sir  Henry  Clinton  at  the  very  moment  when 
Moultrie  drove  Parker  away  from  the  South.  Within  the  harbor 
the  most  conspicuous  object,  and  the  one  also  of  commanding  interest, 
is  the  ruined  walls  of  Sumter.  This  fort,  with  that  of  Moultrie, 
once  constituted  the  chief  defences  of  Charleston.  The  events  and 
operations  of  which  these  massive  ruins  have  formed  the  chief  centre 
and  culminating  point  are  too  fresh  in  the  public  recollection  to 


SOUTH    CAROLINA. 


625 


A 


CHARLESTON. 


require  more  than  a  brief  retrospect  in  these  pages.  The  fort,  which 
is  an  octagonal  work  of  solid  masonry,  stands  in  the  middle  of  the 
harbor.  The  armament  consisted,  at  the  time  of  the  attack,  of  140 
guns.  It  was  occupied  by  Major  Anderson  on  the  night  of  December 
26,  1860,  and  at  noon  of  the  27th  the  Union  flag  was  hoisted  over  it. 
On  the  llth  of  January  following,  Governor  Pickens  demanded  a 
surrender  of  the  fort,  which  being  refused,  preparations  were  com- 
menced to  attack  it.  Fire  was  opened  under  direction  of  General  G. 
T.  Beauregard  at  4.30  o'clock  A.  M.,  April  llth,  1861,  from  the 
batteries  on  James  Island.  After  a  defence  of  thirty-two  hours  the 
garrison  surrendered,  and  were  transported  to  New  York  in  the 
steamer  Baltic.  The  present  condition  of  the  work  sufficiently  attests 
the  warmth  of  the  second  attack,  August,  1863.  On  James  Island 
are  seen  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Johnson.  On  the  opposite  headlands 
of  the  Haddrill  you  may  trace  the  old  lines  which  helped  in  the 
defence  of  the  city  eighty  years  ago,  but  which  are  now  mostly 
covered  by  the  smart  village  of  Mount  Pleasant.  These  points, 
north,  east,  and  south,  with  the  city  lying  west  of  them,  bound  the 
harbor,  leaving  an  ample  circuit  of  bay — coursing  over  which,  from 
40 


626  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

south  to  north,  the  eye  pursues  the  long  stretch  of  Cooper  River,  the 
Etiwando  of  the  red  men,  along  the  banks  of  which,  for  many  miles, 
the  sight  is  refreshed  by  noble  rice-fields,  and  in  many  places  by  the 
mansions  and  homesteads  of  the  former  planters.  Steamers  ply  up 
this  river,  and  return  the  same  day,  affording  a  good  bird's-eye  view 
of  the  settlements,  along  a  very  picturesque  shore  line  on  either  hand. 
It  was  up  this  river  that  Mr.  Webster  distinguished  himself  by  shoot- 
ing an  alligator,  or  rather  shooting  at  him — the  alligator  diving  at 
the  shot,  and  leaving  the  matter  sufficiently  doubtful  to  enable  an  old 
lawyer  and  politician  to  make  a  plausible  case  of  it.  Standing  on 
James  Island,  or  on  the  battlements  of  Fort  Sumter,  the  eye  notes  the 
broad  stream  of  the  Ashley,  winding  from  west  of  the  city,  round  its 
southernmost  point,  to  mingle  with  the  waters  of  the  Cooper.  The 
Ashley  was  anciently  a  region  of  great  wealth  and  magnificence.  It 
is  still  a  river  of  imposing  aspect — broad,  capacious,  with  grassy, 
well-wooded  banks,  beyond  which  you  may  still  behold  some  antique 
and  noble  edifices." 

The  city  is  regularly  built,  and  is  about  2  miles  long  by  about  1J 
miles  in  width.  The  streets  are  not  very  wide,  but  are  laid  off  regu- 
larly, and  the  city  is  one  of  the  best  built  in  the  country.  The  prin- 
cipal streets  are  Meeting  and  King.  These  run  north  and  south, 
nearly  parallel,  the  whole  length  of  the  city.  Meeting  street  is  60 
feet  wide,  and  on  it  is  transacted  the  principal  business  of  the  city. 
It  contains  some  of  the  handsomest  public  buildings,  and  the  leading 
hotels.  King  street  is  much  narrower,  and  is  the  principal  shopping 
street. 

"A  large  proportion  of  the  population  of  Charleston  consists  of  the 
gentry  of  the  contiguous  parishes,  who,  possessing  large  planting  in- 
terests, are  sufficiently  opulent  to  maintain  abodes  in  the  city  as  well 
as  on  their  plantations.  Here  they  educate  their  children,  and  hither 
they  resort  in  midsummer.  This  is  the  secret  of  something  anomalous 
in  the  life  of  Charleston.  It  is  resorted  to  in  summer  as  a  watering- 
place  by  the  people  of  the  country.  This  practice  will  account  for 
some  of  those  characteristics  which  are  thought  to  be  peculiar  to  the 
city.  The  planters  bring  with  them  wealth  and  leisure,  and  these 
naturally  beget  luxurious  tastes  and  habits.  These  elevate  the  tone 
of  society,  but  tend  to  the  disparagement  of  labor  and  industry. 
Hence  extravagant  standards  of  living,  and  deficient  enterprise  as  well 
as  industry. 

"  The  city  covers  a  considerable  extent  of  territory,  more  than  its 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  627 

number  of  people  would  seem  to  imply,  as  in  other  cities,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  suburban  character  of  so  many  of  the  residents.  The 
dwelling-houses  of  these  are  generally  isolated,  having  large  open 
grounds  on  every  side,  which  are  used  for  gardens.  Rare  exotics,  the 
finer  fruits,  the  peach,  the  nectarine,  the  orange,  fill  these  spaces,  and, 
with  the  vine,  impart  a  rich,  tropical  character  to  the  aspect  of  the 
abode,  which  itself  may  be  neither  very  large  nor  very  magnificent. 
Ample  piazzas  and  verandahs,  ranging  from  1  to  3  stories,  give  cool- 
ness and  shade  to  the  dwelling.  The  houses  are  of  brick  or  wood ; 
there  are  few  of  stone.  Charleston  exhibits  a  peculiar  taste  in  archi- 
tecture. It  is  like  no  other  city  in  the  Union  in  this  respect.  There 
are  few  regular  blocks  or  rows  of  buildings.  There  is  no  uniformity. 
Each  man  has  built  after  his  own  fashion ;  and  there  are  some  singu- 
lar emanations  of  taste ;  but  what  is  lost  in  propriety  is  gained  in 
variety,  and  with  fine  gardens,  open  plats  of  shrubbery,  shade  and 
frtiit  trees,  the  orange,  peach,  etc.,  creepers,  vines,  the  rich  foliage  of 
the  magnolia,  the  oak,  the  cedar,  the  Pride  of  India,  girdling  the 
white  dwellings  and  the  green  verandahs,  the  effect  is  grateful  and 
highly  picturesque."  Scattered  through  the  city  are  a  number  of 
small  public  squares,  the  principal  of  which,  the  Battery,  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  harbor. 

The  public  buildings  are  numerous  and  handsome.  The  most  con- 
spicuous are  the  City  Hall,  Court  House,  Police  Court,  Custom  House, 
Jail,  Workhouse,  and  South  Carolina  Hall. 

The  schools  of  Charleston  have  always  been  famous.  They  embrace 
all  classes,  from  the  public  primary  school  to  colleges  of  a  high  grade. 
The  principal  establishments  of  the  higher  class  are  the  Military 
Academy,  conducted  by  the  State  (one-half  of  its  pupils  being  State 
or  free  students) ;  the  Charleston  College,  founded  in  1788;  and  the 
Medical  College  of  the  State  of  South  Carolina.  The  city  contains 
several  fine  libraries,  among  which  are  the  Mercantile,  Apprentices, 
and  City  Libraries.  The  Art  Society  and  Historical  Society  are  ex- 
cellent institutions,  and  each  possesses  a  valuable  collection  of  works 
relating  to  its  objects. 

The  benevolent  establishments  are  well  conducted.  They  consist 
of  an  Almshouse,  an  Orphan  Asylum,  and  a  Hospital,  together  with 
several  humane  and  charitable  societies.  The  cemeteries  are  among 
the  most  beautiful  in  the  world,  and  are  greatly  admired. 

The  city  contains  over  30  churches,  several  fine  hotels,  about  4  daily 
newspapers,  and  several  weeklies.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  sup- 


628  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

plied  with  water.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870, 
the  population  was  48,956. 

During  the  late  war,  the  city  was  subjected  to  a  severe  bombard- 
ment from  the  United  States  batteries  on  the  bay  islands,  and  was  se- 
verely injured.  It  is  now  slowly  recovering  from  this  damage,  and 
the  old  buildings  are  being  replaced  with  better  and  more  convenient 
edifices. 

Charleston  is  connected  with  the  principal  cities  of  the  Union  by 
railway,  and  by  steamers  with  the  Atlantic  and  Gulf  ports.  It  is  the 
centre  of  a  large  coasting  trade,  and  possesses  some  foreign  commerce. 
It  exports  more  rice  than  any  other  city  in  the  Union,  and  is  next  to 
New  Orleans  and  Mobile  in  its  exportation  of  cotton.  It  has  also  a 
large  trade  in  tobacco,  lumber,  and  flour.  Considerable  shipping  is 
owned  in  the  port.  The  commerce  of  the  city  was  entirely  destroyed 
by  the  late  war,  but  is  now  rapidly  reviving. 

Charleston  was  settled  about  the  year  1679,  by  an  English  colony 
acting  under  a  charter  from  the  British  Crown.  The  expedition  was 
led  by  William  Sayle,  who  became  the  first  Governor.  Some  years 
later  the  settlers  were  joined  by  a  number  of  French  Huguenots,  who 
had  been  exiled  from  their  native  country  on  account  of  their  religion. 
Its  growth  was  greatly  retarded  by  the  fierce  fevers  incident  to  the 
southern  coast,  and  by  many  other  difficulties ;  ^but  it  surmounted 
these,  and  by  1731  contained  600  houses  and  5  churches.  It  took  an 
active  part  in  the  troubles  of  the  Revolution,  and,  although  it  con- 
tained a  large  number  of  persons  devoted  to  the  royal  authority,  sided 
with  the  colonies.  On  the  24th  of  June,  1776,  a  British  fleet  under 
Sir  Peter  .Parker,  consisting  of  9  ships  of  war,  attacked  the  American 
fort  on  Sullivan's  Island,  which  commanded  the  entrance  to  the  har- 
bor. The  fort  was  unfinished  and  badly  armed,  and  was  garrisoned 
by  only  400  men  under  Colonel  Moultrie.  The  British  were  repulsed 
with  severe  loss,  and  came  near  losing  their  fleet.  In  1778,  a  severe 
fire  consumed  252  houses.  On  the  1st  of  April,  1780,  Charlestoh  was 
besieged  by  the  British  under  Sir  Henry  Clinton.  It  was  defended 
by  General  Lincoln  and  a  small  American  force,  who  held  out  until 
May  12th,  when  they  surrendered,  half  the  city  being  in  ruins  and  the 
people  starving.  The  British  held  the  city  until  1782.  In  1783, 
Charleston  was  incorporated  as  a  city.  In  1796,  it  was  again  ravaged 
by  a  fire,  which  destroyed  nearly  a  third  part  of  the  city  and  property 
to  the  amount  of  $2,500,000. 

Charleston  was  the  centre  of  the  Secession  movement  which  resulted 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  629 

in  the  civil  war.  The  beginning  of  hostilities — the  bombardment  and 
capture  of  Fort  Sumter — occurred  here.  The  harbor  was  closely 
blockaded  during  the  war,  and  the  defences  of  the  city  were  frequently 
attacked  by  land  and  sea,  and  the  city  itself  was  subjected  to  a  severe 
and  destructive  bombardment.  After  a  long  and  desperate  siege,  it 
was  recaptured  by  the  United  States  forces  on  the  18th  of  February, 
1865. 

MISCELLANY. 

AN    INCIDENT    IN    THE    LIFE    OF    SERGEANT  JASPER. 

Jasper  had  a  brother,  who  had  joined  the  British,  and  who  held  a  similar  rank 
in  the  army.  To  this  brother  he  was  warmly  attached,  and  actually  ventured 
into  the  British  garrison  at  Ebenezer  to  see  him.  His  brother  was  exceedingly 
alarmed,  lest  he  should  be  seized  and  hung  as  an  American  spy ;  for  his  name 
was  well  known  to  many  of  the  British  officers.  "Do  not  trouble  yourself," 
said  Jasper  ;  "  I  am  no  longer  an  American  soldier." 

"Thank  God  for  that,  William,"  exclaimed  his  brother,  heartily  shaking  him 
by  the  hand  ;  "and  now  only  say  the  word,  my  boy,  and  here  is  a  commission 
for  you,  with  regimentals  and  gold  to  boot,  to  fight  for  His  Majesty,  King 
George." 

Jasper  shook  his  head,  and  observed,  that  though  there  was  but  little  encour- 
agement to  fight  for  his  country,  he  could  not  find  it  in  his  heart  to  fight  against 
her.  And  there  the  conversation  ended.  After  staying  two  or  three  days  with 
his  brother,  inspecting  and  hearing  all  that  he  could,  he  took  his  leave,  returned 
to  the  American  camp  by  a  circuitous  route,  and  told  General  Lincoln  all  that  he 
had  seen. 

Soon  after  he  made  another  trip  to  the  English  garrison,  taking  with  him  his 
particular  friend,  Sergeant  Newton,  who  was  a  young  man  of  great  strength  and 
courage.  His  brother  received  him  with  his  usual  cordiality  ;  and  he  and  his 
friend  spent  several  days  at  the  British  fort  without  giving  the  least  alarm.  On 
the  morning  of  the  third  day,  his  brother  observed  that  he  had  bad  news  to  tell 
him. 

"Ay  !  what  is  it  ?  "  asked  William. 

"Why,"  replied  his  brother,  "here  are  ten  or  a  dozen  American  prisoners, 
brought  in  this  morning,  as  deserters  from  Savannah,  wrhither  they  are  to  be  sent 
immediately ;  and,  from  what  I  can  learn,  it  will  be  apt  to  go  hard  with  them — 
for  it  seems  they  have  all  taken  the  king's  bounty." 

"  Let  us  see  them,"  said  Jasper.  So  his  brother  took  him  and  his  friend  New- 
ton to  see  them.  It  was  indeed  a  melancholy  sight  to  see  the  poor  fellows  hand- 
cuffed upon  the  ground.  But  when  the  eye  rested  on  a  young  woman,  wife  of 
one  of  the  prisoners,  with  her  child,  a  sweet  little  boy  of  five  years,  all  pity  for 
the  male  prisoners  was  forgotten.  Her  humble  garb  showed  that  she  was  poor  ; 
but  her  deep  distress,  and  sympathy  with  her  unfortunate  husband,  proved  that 
she  was  rich  in  conjugal  love,  more  precious  than  all  gold.  She  generally  sat  on 
the  ground  opposite  to  her  husband,  with  her  little  boy  leaning  on  her  lap,  and 
her  coal  black  hair  spreading  in  long,  neglected  tresses  on  her  neck  and  bosom. 
Sometimes  she  would  sit,  silent  as  a  statue  of  grief,  her  eyes  fixed  upon  th* 


630  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

earth  :  then  she  would  start  with  a  convulsive  throb,  and  gaze  on  her  husband's 
face  with  looks  as  piercing  sad  as  if  she  already  saw  him  struggling  in  the  halter, 
herself  a  widow,  and  her  son  an  orphan.  While  the  child,  distressed  by  his 
mother's  anguish,  added  to  the  pathos  of  the  scene  by  the  artl(  ss  tears  of  childish 
suffering.  Though  Jasper  and  Newton  were  undaunted  in  the  field  of  battle, 
their  feelings  were  subdued  by  such  heart-stirring  misery.  As  they  walked  out 
into  the  neighboring  wood,  the  tears  stood  in  the  eyes  of  both.  Jasper  first  broke 
silence.  " Newton,"  said  he,  "my  days  have  been  but  few  ;  but  I  believe  their 
course  is  nearly  finished." 

"  Why  so,  Jasper  ?  " 

"  Why,  I  feel  that  I  must  rescue  those  poor  prisoners,  or  die  with  them,  other- 
wise, the  remembrance  of  that  poor  woman  and  her  child  will  haunt  me  to  my 
grave." 

"That  is  exactly  what  I  feel,  too,"  replied  Newton  ;  "  and  here  is  my  hand  and 
heart  to  stand  by  you,  my  brave  friend,  to  the  last  drop.  Thank  God,  a  man 
can  die  but  once ;  and  why  should  we  fear  to  leave  this  life  in  the  way  of  our 
duty?" 

The  friends  embraced  each  other,  and  entered  into  the  necessary  arrangements 
for  fulfilling  their  desperate  resolution. 

Immediately  after  breakfast,  the  prisoners  were  sent  on  their  way  to  Savannah, 
under  the  guard  of  a  sergeant  and  corporal,  with  8  men.  They  had  not  been 
gone  long,  before  Jasper,  accompanied  by  his  friend  Newton,  took  leave  of  his 
brother,  and  set  out  on  some  pretended  errand  to  the  upper  country.  They  had 
scarcely  got  out  of  sight  of  Ebenezer,  before  they  struck  into  the  woods,  and 
pushed  hard  after  the  prisoners  and  their  guard,  whom  they  closely  dogged  for 
several  miles,  anxiously  watching  an  opportunity  to  make  a  blow.  The  hope,  in- 
deed, seemed  extravagant;  for  what  could  two  unarmed  men  do  against  ten., 
equipped  with  loaded  muskets,  and  bayonets  ?  However,  unable  to  give  up  their 
countrymen,  our  heroes  still  travelled  on. 

About  2  miles  from  Savannah,  there  is  a  famous  spring  generally  called  the 
Spa,  well  known  to  travellers,  who  often  stopped  there  to  quench  their  thirst. 
"Perhaps,"  said  Jasper,  "the  guard  may  stop  there."  Hastening  on  through 
the  woods,  they  gained  the  Spa,  as  theii  last  hope,  and  there  concealed  them- 
selves among  the  thick  bushes  that  grew  around  the  spring.  Presently,  the 
mournful  procession  came  in  sight  of  the  spring,  where  the  sergeant  ordered  a 
halt.  Hope  sprung  afresk  in  the  bosoms  of  our  heroes,  though  no  doubt  mixed 
with  great  aiarms ;  for  "it  was  a  fearful  odds."  The  corporal,  with  his  guard 
of  four  men,  conducted  the  prisoners  to  the  spring,  while  the  sergeant,  with  the 
other  four,  having  grounded  their  arms  near  the  road,  brought  up  the  rear.  The 
prisoners,  wearied  with  their  long  walk,  were  permitted  to  rest  themselves  on 
the  earth.  Poor  Mrs.  Jones,  as  usual,  took  her  seat  opposite  to  her  husband,  and 
her  little  boy,  overcome  with  fatigue,  fell  asleep  in  her  lap.  Two  of  the  corporal's 
men  were  ordered  to  keep  guard,  and  the  other  two  to  give  the  prisoners  drink 
out  of  their  canteens.  These  last  approached  the  spring,  where  our  heroes  lay 
concealed,  and,  resting  their  muskets  against  a  pine  tree,  dipped  up  water. 
Having  drunk  themselves,  they  turned  away  with  replenished  canteens,  to  give 
to  the  prisoners  also.  "Now,  Newton,  is  our  time,"  said  Jasper.  Then,  burst- 
ing like  lions  from  their  concealment,  they  snatched  up  the  two  muskets  that 
were  resting  against  the  pine,  and  in  an  instant  shot  down  the  two  soldiers  who 
were  upon  guard.  It  was  now  a  contest  who  should  get  the  loaded  muskets  that 


SOUTH    CAROLINA.  631 

fell  from  the  hands  of  the  slain ;  for  by  this  time  a  couple  of  brave  Englishmen, 
recovering  from  their  momentary  panic,  had  sprung  and  seized  upon  the  mus- 
kets ;  but  before  they  could  use  them,  the  swift-handed  Americans,  with  clubbed 
guns,  levelled  a  final  blow  at  the  heads  of  their  brave  antagonists.  The  tender 
bones  of  the  skull  gave  way,  and  down  they  sunk,  pale  and  quivering,  without  a 
groan.  Then  hastily  seizing  the  muskets,  which  had  thus  a  second  time  fallen 
from  the  hands  of  the  slain,  they  flew  between  their  surviving  enemies  and  their 
weapons,  grounded  near  the  road,  and  ordered  them  to  surrender ;  which  they 
instantly  did.  They  then  snapped  the  handcuffs  off  the  prisoners,  and  aimed 
them  with  muskets. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  fight,  poor  Mrs.  Jones  had  fallen  to  the  earth  in  a 
swoon,  and  her  little  son  stood  screaming  piteonsly  over  her.  But,  -when  she 
recovered,  and  saw  her  husband  and  his  friends  freed  from  their  fetteirs,  she  be- 
haved like  one  frantic  with  joy.  She  sprung  to  her  husband's  boso*»,  and,  with 
her  arms  round  his  neck,  sobbed  out,  "  My  husband  is  safe — bless  God,  my  hus- 
band is  safe."  Then,  snatching  up  her  child,  she  pressed  him  to-  her  heart,  as 
she  exclaimed,  u  Thank  God  !  my  son  has  a  father  yet."  Then,  kneeling  at  the 
feet  of  Jasper  and  Newton,  she  pressed  their  hands  vehemently,  but  in  the  full- 
ness of  her  heart  she  could  only  say,  "God  bless  you!  God  Almighty  bless 
you!" 

For  fear  of  being  retaken  by  the  English,  our  heroes  seized  the-  arms  and  regi- 
mentals of  the  dead,  and,  with  their  friends  and  captive  foes,  reerossed  the  Sa- 
vannah, and  safely  joined  the  American  army  at  Parisburgh,  to.  the  inexpressible 
astonishment  and  joy  of  all. 


GEORGIA. 

Area, 58,000  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860,  . 1,057,286 

(Whites,  591,588.    Negroes,  465,698) 

Population  in  1870, 1,184,109 

THE  State  of  Georgia,  the  most  southern  of  the  original  members 
of  the  Union,  lies  between  30°  2V  39"  and  35°  N.  latitude,  and  be- 
tween 81°  and  85°  53'  38"  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  North  Carolina  and  Tennessee,  on  the  east  by  South  Caro- 
lina, and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  south  by  Florida,  and  on  the 
west  by  Florida  and  Alabama.  The  Savannah  River  separates  it  from 
South  Carolina,  and  the  Chattahoochee  forms  a  part  of  the  western 
boundary,  separating  the  lower  half  of  the  State  from  Alabama  and 
Florida.  The  greatest  length  of  Georgia,  from  north  to  south,  is 
about  300  miles,  and  its  greatest  width,  from  east  to  west,  about  250 
miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

Along  the  coast,  and  for  about  100  miles  inland,  the  surface  Js 
flat  and  marshy,  resembling  the  lower  part  of  South  Carolina.  Rice 
is  largely  cultivated  here.  A  fine  rolling  country  occupies  the  centre 
of  the  State,  while  the  northern  and  northwestern  parts  are  traversed 
by  the  ranges  of  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains,  which  vary  in  height 
from  1200  to  4000  feet.  The  southeastern  part  contains  a  series  of 
swamps,  having  a  circuit  of  about  180  miles,  known  under  the 
general  name  of  Okefonokee  Swamp.  This  is  one  of  the  wildest  and 
rankest  tracts  in  the  South,  and  abounds  in  alligators,  lizards,  cranes, 
snakes,  etc.  The  coast  is  lined  with  a  chain  of  islands,  similar  to 
those  of  South  Carolina,  which  produce  the  Sea  Island  cotton.  The 
632 


GEORGIA.  633 

waters  lying  between  these  islands  and  the  shore  constitute  an  inner 
passage  along  the  coast,  and  are  navigable  for  light  draft  vessels. 

The  coast  is  deeply  indented  with  inlets,  some  of  which  afford  good 
harbors. 

The  Savannah  River,  which  separates  the  State  from  South  Caro- 
lina, is  formed  by  the  Tugaloo  and  Seneca  rivers.  It  is  about  500 
miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for  large  steamboats  to  Augusta,  230 
miles  from  the  sea.  Ships  ascend  to  Savannah,  about  15  miles  from 
its  mouth.  It  is  lined  with  fine  cotton  and  rice  plantations,  and 
above  Augusta  is  an  excellent  mill  stream.  The  Ogeechee  River  flows 
almost  parallel  with  it,  and  empties  into  Ossabaw  Sound,  a  short  dis-» 
tance  south  of  Savannah.  It  is  navigable  for  small  vessels  for  30  or 
40  miles,  and  for  flat-boats  to  Louisville,  near  the  centre  of  the  eastern 
part  of  the  State.  Its  principal  branch,  the  Cannouchee,  is  navigable 
for  small  vessels  for  50  miles.  The  Altamaha  River  flows  into  the 
Atlantic,  south  of  the  Ogeechee.  It  is  formed  by  the  Oconee  and 
Ocmulgee,  which,  rising  in  the  northern  part  and  flowing  through 
central  Georgia,  unite  about  100  miles  from  the  sea,  and  form  the 
Altamaha.  The  main  river  is  ascended  by  ships  to  Darien,  not  far 
from  its  mouth.  The  Ocmulgee  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  to 
Macon,  and  the  Oconee  to  Milledgeville,  the  capital  of  the  State — each 
nearly  two  hundred  miles  from  the  sea.  The  Santilla  and  St.  Mary's 
drain  the  extreme  southeastern  part  of  the  State,  and  are  navigable 
for  small  vessels  for  about  30  or  40  miles,  and  much  higher  for  flat- 
boats.  The  Chattahoochee  River  rises  in  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains, 
in  Habersham  county,  in  the  extreme  northeastern  corner  of  the  State. 
Flowing  southwest  to  West  Point,  it  strikes  the  boundary  between 
Georgia  and  Alabama,  and  turns  to  the  south,  washing  the  western 
shore  of  the  State  to  its  southern  extremity,  where  it  empties  into  the 
Appalachicola  River,  of  Florida.  It  is  about  550  miles  long,  and  is 
navigable  for  steamers,  from  November  to  June,  to  Columbus,  350 
miles  from  its  mouth.  The  rapids  begin  at  Columbus.  The  upper 
part  of  the  river  flows  through  the  gold  region  of  Georgia,  and  is  a 
fine  mill  stream.  The  Flint  River  is  its  principal  branch.  It  rises 
in  the  western  part  of  the  centre  of  the  State,  and  flows  southwest  into 
the  Chattahoochee,  just  above  the  mouth  of  that  river.  It  is  about 
300  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for  steamers  to  Albany.  The  other 
rivers  are  the  Tallapoosa  and  Coosa,  the  sources  of  the  Alabama,  in 
the  northwest,  the  Hiawassee,  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Tennessee,  in 
the  north,  and  the  Ocklockony  and  Suwanee  and  their  branches,  in  the 
south,  which  flow  into  Florida.  ., 


634  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

MINERALS. 

The  minerals  of  this  State  are  gold,  silver,  copper,  iron,  lead,  man- 
ganese, titanium,  graphite,  antimony,  zinc,  granite,  marble,  gypsum, 
limestone,  coal,  sienite,  marl,  burrstone,  soapstone,  slate,  jasper,  ame- 
thyst, chalcedony,  cornelian,  agate,  rose  quartz,  garnets,  and  several 
others  more  or  less  valuable.  Diamonds  are  sometimes  found.  The 
gold  region  lies  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  principally  in  and 
around  Lumpkin  county.  Until  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California, 
it  was  the  principal  source  of  our  supply.  Previous  to  the  war,  the 
General  Government  maintained  a  branch  mint  at  Dahlonega,  in  the 
centre  of  the  gold  region.  In  1852,  $476,788  were  coined  at  this 
mint.  These  mines  are  far  from  being  exhausted,  and  are  worked 
now  with  considerable  profit. 

"  The  white  marble  quarries  of  Cherokee  county  are  of  great  extent, 
a  portion  of  them  affording  statuary  marble.  The  slate  quarries  of 
Polk  county  are  now  attracting  much  attention.  The  slate  is  con- 
sidered equal  to  the  Welsh,  and  is  now  being  shipped  to  New  York. 
The  quarry  is  of  enormous  extent.  Hydraulic  cement,  nearly  white 
in  color,  and  of  excellent  quality,  is  made  near  Kingston,  Bartow 
county.  The  indications  of  petroleum  in  Floyd  county  are  strong. 
That  section  has  been  thrown  up  in  the  wildest  confusion.  The 
formation  is  the  lower  Silurian,  abounding  in  fossils,  and  both  the 
limestone  and  shale  are  highly  bituminous.  Iron  ore  abounds  in 
Bartow  and  other  counties." 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  Georgia  is  the  most  delightful  of  any  of  the  far 
Southern  States.  The  southern  and  southeastern  parts  are  cooled 
by  the  sea  breeze,  and  the  mountain  regions  are,  though  severe  in 
winter,  delightfully  coolin  summer.  The  spring  comes  early  and  is 
pleasant. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  along  the  coast  and  the  rivers  is  fertile,  and  produces 
almost  any  variety  of  food.  About  65  or  70  miles  from  the  coast,  the 
Pine  Barren  region  begins.  This  soil  is  naturally  poor,  but  is  easily 
fertilized.  It  produces  valuable  timber  and  naval  stores.  In  the 
southwestern  part  of  the  State,  the  soil  is  light  and  sandy,  but, 
although  fertile,  is  easily  worn  out,  and  requires  careful  manuring. 


GEORGIA.  635 

In  the  middle  counties  the  soil  consists  of  a  red  loam  originally  fer- 
tile, but  greatly  exhausted  by  the  bad  system  of  agriculture  pursued 
in  the  State.  The  northern  part  of  the  State  is  very  fertile,  and  will 
produce  cotton,  but  is  much  better  adapted  to  the  growth  of  grain,  to 
which  it  is  principally  devoted.  Cotton  is  raised  in  the  central  and 
southern  counties,  and  rice  along  the  coast  and  the  lower  parts  of  the 
principal  rivers.  The  great  extent  of  navigable  rivers  in  this  State 
renders  it  easy  to  bring  the  crops  to  market,  and  thus  lightens  the  bur- 
dens of  the  producer.  Grain  is  extensively  grown  in  this  State.  The 
greater  part  of  the  cotton  region  can  be  tilled  by  white  labor,  but  here 
and  elsewhere,  rice  requires  a  cultivation  which  would  be  fatal  to 
white  laborers. 

The  agricultural  interests  of  Georgia  were  fearfully  damaged  by  the 
civil  war,  and  the  State  is  but  slowly  recovering  from  its  losses.  The 
statistics  of  1869,  the  latest  available,  are  very  imperfect.  They  are 
as  follows : 

Acres  of  improved  land, 8,062,758 

Bushels  of  wheat, 2,170,000 

rye, 73,000 

oats, 1,200,000 

Indian  corn, 27,500,000 

barley, 13,300 

potatoes, 248,000 

peas  and  beans, 1,965,212 

Tons  of  hay, 48,000 

Number  of  horses, .  198,300 

mules  and  asses, 200,150 

milch  cows, 301,180 

"           young  cattle,  . 780,350 

"           swine, •    .  2,150,300 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $45,372,734 

Bales  of  cotton, 495,000 

Pounds  of  rice  (estimated),  ..." 30,000,000 

COMMERCE. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  civil  war,  Georgia  was  building  up 
a  valuable  and  growing  trade  with  the  Northern  States  and  with 
Europe.  In  1860,  the  foreign  exports  of  the  State  amounted  to 
$18,483,038,  and  the  imports  to  $782,061. 

MANUFACTURES. 

With  an  enterprise  which  won  her  the  title  of  the  "  Empire  State 
of  the  South,"  Georgia  was  making  great  progress  in  manufactures 


638  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

when  the  war  broke  out.  Nearly  all  her  establishments  were  either 
entirely  destroyed,  crippled,  or  forced  to  suspend  operations  by  the 
events  of  the  struggle.  The  State  possesses  unusual  advantages 
for  manufactures,  and  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  it  will  in  a  few 
years  begin  to  develop  this  branch  of  its  industry  with  its  old  energy. 
In  1860,  there  were  1724  establishments  in  Georgia  devoted  to  manu- 
factures, mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  a  capital  of  $11,- 
160,000.  There  were  32  cotton  mills  (30  of  which  were  driven  by 
water-power),  with  a  capital  of  $1,854,603,  yielding  an  annual  pro- 
duct of  $2,215,636;  and  28  woollen  factories,  with  a  capital  of 
$174,600,  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $465,000. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  there  were  2108  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Georgia. 
The  principal  towns  of  the  State  are  connected  by  railroad.  Two 
main  lines  extend  across  the  centre  of  the  State,  from  Savannah  to 
Macon  and  Columbus,  and  from  Augusta  to  Atlanta  and  Chattanooga, 
Tenn.  Three  roads  centre  at  Savannah,  three  at  Augusta,  three  at 
Columbus,  three  at  Macon,  and  four  at  Atlanta.  By  means  of  these 
and  their  branches,  all  parts  of  the  State  and  the  Union  may  be 
reached  with  ease  and  rapidity.  Nearly  every  road  in  the  State  was 
destroyed  during  the  war,  but  almost  all  have  been  restored  since  the 
return  of  peace. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  the  State  contained  31  colleges,  averaging  over  100  students 
each;  1603  academies  and  other  schools,  with  55,000  pupils;  and 
246  public  schools,  with  11,150  pupils.  The  schools  were  broken 
up  by  the  war,  and  it  was  not  until  very  recently  that  anything  was 
done  to  restore  them. 

The  present  Constitution  places  the  system  of  public  education 
under  the  control  of  a  State  School  Commissioner,  appointed  by  the 
Governor  and  confirmed  by  the  Senate,  for  a  period  of  four  years.  A 
permanent  school  fund  has  been  authorized,  which  now  amounts  to 
$242,000,  and  the  Legislature  is  required  to  establish  at  least  one  or 
more  common  schools  in  each  school  district  of  the  State  as  soon  as 
possible,  and  to  levy  taxes  for  their  support. 

The  University  of  Georgia  is  located  at  Athens,  and  was  founded 
in  1801.  It  includes  Franklin  College,  and  is  in  a  prosperous  con- 


GEORGIA.  637 

dition.  It  is  an  excellent  school,  and  possesses  a  library  of  13,000 
volumes,  a  valuable  and  complete  chemical  apparatus,  and  one  of  the 
best  cabinets  of  mineralogy  and  geology  in  the  Union. 

Oglethorpe  University,  at  Mil  ledge  vi  lie ;  Mercer  University,  at  Ren- 
field  ;  Emory  College,  at  Renfield ;  and  the  Wesley  an  Female  College, 
at  Macon,  are  the  other  prominent  schools. 

PUBLIC   INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary,  at  Milledgeville,  was  established  in  1811, 
and  was  provided  with  fine  and  commodious  buildings  of  granite.  It 
was  destroyed  during  the  war,  but  has  been  partially  rebuilt  since 
the  peace. 

The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  located  at  Medway,  near  Milledge- 
ville. It  was  established  in  1842.  Blacks  as  well  as  whites  are  ad- 
mitted. The  institution  is  provided  with  ample  and  substantial  build- 
ings, and  is  now  doing  well. 

The  Academy  for  the  Blind,  at  Maoon,  is  an  excellent  institution. 
It  is  provided  with  handsome  brick  buildings,  and  is  in  successful 
operation. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  in  Murray  county,  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  State,  was  closed  during  the  war,  and  has  not 
yet  been  reopened. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  wero  2698  churches  in  Georgia.  The  total  value  of 
church  property  was  $3,561,955. 

FINANCES. 

In  1870,  the  debt  of  the  State  amounted  to  $6,014,500,  and  had 
not  been  increased  since  1867.  The  State,  according  to  the  asser- 
tion of  the  Governor,  possesses  valuable  assets  to  the  amount  of 
$12,000,000.  In  1869,  the  receipts  of  the  State  Treasury  amounted 
to  $2,183,900,  and  the  expenditures  to  $1,857,825.  The  finances  of 
Georgia  are  in  a  very  unhappy  condition.  A  portion  of  the  public 
debt  was  overdue  in  1870,  and  no  provision  had  been  made  for  its 
payment,  and  the  credit  of  the  State  had  been  considerably  damaged 
by  the  quarrels  between  the  Governor  and  the  Treasurer. 

In  1868,  there  were  8  National  Banks  in  Georgia,  with  an  aggre* 
gate  capital  of  $1,600,000. 


638  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  the  State  was  ratified  by  the  people  on 
the  20th  of  April,  1868.  Every  male  person,  born  in  the  United 
States,  or  who  has  been  naturalized,  or  who  has  legally  declared  his 
intention  to  become  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  twenty-one  years 
old,  who  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  in  the  county  thirty 
days,  who  has  paid  taxes,  and  every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States, 
who  was  a  resident  of  this  State  at  the  time  of  the  adoption  of  this 
Constitution,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections.  Soldiers  and  sailors 
in  the  service  of  the  United  States,  idiots,  insane  persons,  and  convicts 
are  excluded  from  the  ballot.  The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Gover- 
nor, chosen  by  the  people  for  four  years,  a  Secretary  of  State, 
Treasurer,  Comptroller-General,  and  Attorney-General,  elected  for 
four  years  by  the  General  Assembly,  and  a  Legislature,  composed  of  a 
Senate  (of  44  members)  and  House  of  Representatives  (of  175  mem- 
bers). Senators  are  elected  for  four  years,  one-half  retiring  biennially, 
and  Representatives  for  two  years. 

u  The  Judicial  powers  of  the  State  are  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court, 
Superior  Courts,  Courts  of  Ordinary,  Justices  of  the  Peace,  Commis* 
sioned  Notaries  Public,  and  such  other  courts  as  may  be  established 
by  law.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  three  judges,  and  has  juris- 
diction only  for  the  trial  and  correction  of  errors  on  appeal  from 
lower  courts.  The  judges  are  to  be  appointed,  those  of  the  Supreme 
Court  for  12  years,  and  those  of  the  Superior  Courts  for  8  years." 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Atlanta. 

For  purposes  of  government,  Georgia  is  divided  into  132  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Georgia  was  the  last  settled  of  the  thirteen  original  colonies.  It 
was  at  first  included  within  the  charter  of  Carolina,  and  was  the 
object  of  rival  claims  on  the  part  of  Spain  and  England.  On  the  9th 
of  July,  1732,  George  II.  of  England,  after  whom  the  province  was 
named,  granted  it  to  a  corporation,  who  were  styled  "  Trustees  for 
settling  the  colony  of  Georgia."  It  was  designed  to  make  this  colony 
a  refuge  for  the  respectable  poor  of  England.  The  first  colony  was 
planted  at  Savannah,  in  the  spring  of  1733,  by  General  James  Ogle- 
thorpe,  but  the  condition  of  military  service  was  attached  to  the 
possession  of  lands  by  the  colonists,  and  had  the  effect  of  driving  the 
best  settlers  from  the  colony,  and  in  1734  the  system  was  changed, 


GEORGIA.  639 

and  fifty  acres  in  fee  simple  were  offered  to  each  settler.  This  offer 
drew  a  number  of  emigrants  to  the  colony  from  Europe,  chiefly  from 
Germany  and  Scotland.  In  1739,  war  broke  out  between  England 
and  Spain,  and  General  Oglethorpe,  with  1000  militia  from  Georgia 
and  Florida,  and  a  band  of  Indian  allies,  invaded  Florida,  and  made 
an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  capture  St.  Augustine.  In  1742,  the 
Spaniards  revenged  this  invasion  by  sending  36  ships  and  3000  men 
into  Georgia.  Fort  St.  Simon,  on  the  Altamaha  River  was  taken, 
and  Fort  Frederica,  on  St.  Simon's  Island,  would  have  fallen,  had 
not  the  Spaniards,  becoming  alarmed  at  a  stratagem  of  Oglethorpe, 
retired  into  Florida.  Peace  was  restored  soon  after. 

The  early  years  of  the  colony  were  marked  by  troubles  caused  by 
the  restrictions  imposed  by  the  Trustees.  These  and  the  prohibition 
of  slavery  occasioned  so  much  discontent  amongst  the  settlers  that  there 
was  danger  that  the  colony  would  be  abandoned.  In  17C2,  the  Trus- 
tees surrendered  their  charter  to  the  crown,  and  Georgia  became  a 
royal  province.  Privileges  similar  to  those  granted  the  other  colonies 
were  allowed  it,  not  the  least  of  which  was  the  permission  to  import 
and  hold  negro  slaves.  After  this  the  colony  grew  rapidly,  and  rice 
and  cotton  were  largely  cultivated.  In  1775  the  population  num- 
bered 75,000  souls.  In  this  year  its  exports  amounted  to  $517,385, 
and  its  imports  to  $558,885. 

Georgia  was  prompt  to  give  her  support  to  the  measures  of  protec- 
tion and  resistance,  adopted  by  the  other  colonies,  and  made  liberal 
contributions  of  men  and  money  to  the  cause  during  the  Revolution. 
In  1778,  the  British  captured  Savannah,  and  in  1779  took  Augusta 
and  Sunbury.  From  these  points  they  overran  the  State,  compelling 
many  of  the  principal  inhabitants  to  abandon  their  homes  and  flee  for 
their  lives.  In  1779,  the  American  forces  made  an  effort  to  retake 
Savannah,  but  without  success,  and  the  British  continued  to  hold  the 
State  until  the  close  of  the  war. 

The  State  Government  was  established  and  a  Constitution  adopted 
in  1777,  and  a  second  Constitution  in  1785.  The  Federal  Constitu- 
tion was  ratified  on  the  2d  of  January,  1788. 

The  Creeks  and  Cherokees,  dwelling  on  the  north  and  west  frontiers 
of  the  State,  gave  considerable  trouble  by  their  hostilities,  but  in  1791, 
treaties  were  concluded  with  them  which  established  the  boundaries 
of  the  State,  and  put  a  stop  to  the  troubles.  In  1802,  the  Creeks 
ceded  to  the  United  States  the  lands  which  they  held,  and  in  the 
southwest  part  of  this  State,  which  were  assigned  by  the  General 


640  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Government  to  Georgia.  In  the  same  year,  the  State  ceded  to  the 
United  States  all  its  claims  to  the  lands  west  of  its  present  limits. 
This  territory  is  now  embraced  in  the  States  of  Alabama  and  Missis- 
sippi. In  1838  the  Creeks  were  removed  beyond  the  Mississippi, 
by  the  General  Government,  and  Georgia  came  into  possession  of 
their  lands,  which  now  form  the  northern  counties  of  the  State. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  civil  war  Georgia  had  reached  a  high  de- 
gree of  prosperity,  which  she  was  destined  to  lose  during  the  struggle. 
The  State  seceded  from  the  Union  on  the  19th  of  January,  1861. 
From  the  commencement  of  the  war  it  began  to  suffer.  Its  coast  was 
at  the  mercy  of  the  navy  of  the  United  States,  and  was  greatly  dam- 
aged during  the  early  part  of  the  war.  In  the  winter  of  1862  the 
western  armies  commenced  to  operate  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the 
State,  and  from  this  time  until  the  capture  of  Atlanta  this  section  was 
the  scene  of  a  constant  warfare.  The  battles  of  Chickamauga,  between 
Rosecrans  and  Bragg,  and  the  campaign  between  Sherman  and  John- 
ston, occurred  in  this  State.  In  the  fall  of  1864  the  Confederates  ivere 
forced  to  evacuate  Atlanta,  which  was  at  once  occupied  by  Sherman. 
The  inhabitants  were  driven  out,  and  the  city  burned.  After  destroy- 
ing Atlanta,  Sherman  marched  southward  to  Savannah,  which  he 
reached  and  occupied  on  the  24th  of  December,  1864,  ravaging  the 
plantations  along  his  march,  destroying  railroads,  bridges,  factories, 
and  mills,  carrying  off  provisions  of  all  kinds,  and  marking  his  way 
by  a  wide  belt  of  ruin.  It  is  said  by  competent  State  authorities  that 
the  destruction  of  property  in  Georgia  during  the  war  amounted  to 
$400,000,000. 

After  the  restoration  of  peace  a  Provisional  Governor  was  appointed 
by  the  President,  and  a  new  State  Government  put  in  operation. 
Congress  repudiated  all  these  acts,  and  made  the  State  a  part  of  the 
Third  Military  District,  the  command  of  which  was  given  to  Major 
General  Pope,  who  was  succeeded  by  Major  General  Meade.  In 
March,  1868,  a  State  Convention  was  held,  and  a  new  Constitution 
adopted,  which  was  ratified  by  the  people  in  April,  and  the  State  was 
readmitted  into  the  Union  on  the  25th  of  June,  1868.  Owing,  how- 
ever, to  the  failure  of  the  Constitution  to  admit  the  negroes  to  all  the 
privileges  possessed  by  the  whites,  Congress-,  on  the  22d  of  December, 
1869,  passed  a  bill  declaring  Georgia  not  reconstructed,  and  handed 
the  State  over  to  the  military  authorities  again.  After  an  exciting 
contest  the  terms  imposed  by  Congress  were  complied  with,  and  the 
State  was  readmitted  into  the  Union  on  the  14th  of  July,  1870, 


GEORGIA.  641 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Beside  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  Georgia  are, 
Savannah,  Augusta,  Macon,  Columbus,  Rome,  West  Point,  Dalton, 
Americus,  Kingston,  Marietta,  Albany,  Brunswick,  and  Darien. 

ATLANTA, 

Capital  and  fourth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Fulton  county,  7 
miles  southeast  of  the  Chattahoochee  River,  171  miles  west  of  Augusta. 
The  location  is  high  and  healthy.  Four  of  the  principal  railroads  of 
the  State  terminate  here,  and  it  is  to  this  that  the  city  owes  its  rapid 
growth.  Previous  to  the  introduction  of  railways,  it  was  an  unim- 
portant country  village.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1847,  and 
at  the  outbreak  of  the  civil  war  had  a  population  of  about  10,000.  It 
was  occupied  by  the  Confederate  forces  at  the  outset  of  the  war,  and 
was  one  of  their  most  important  posts.  It  was  attacked  by  General 
Sherman  in  the  summer  of  1864,  and  several  severe  battles  were 
fought  in  its  vicinity.  On  the  2d  of  September  it  was  captured  by 
Sherman,  who  banished  the  inhabitants  into  the  Southern  lines.  On 
the  night  of  the  15th  of  November  he  caused  the  city  to  be  burned, 
on  the  eve  of  his  setting  out  on  his  "  March  to  the  Sea."  Since  the 
close  of  the  war  Atlanta  has  been  almost  entirely  rebuilt.  Owing  to 
its  position  as  a  railroad  centre,  and  the  location  of  the  capital  of  the 
State  here,  it  is  rapidly  recovering  its  former  trade  and  importance. 

It  is  well  built  and  regularly  laid  out.  The  principal  buildings 
are  the  City  Hall,  the  Medical  College,  and  the  Opera  House,  pur- 
chased in  1870  by  the  State,  and  now  being  fitted  up  as  a  State  House. 
It  contains  5  churches,  several  excellent  public  and  private  schools, 
and  9  newspaper  offices.  Three  monthly  magazines  are  also  pub- 
lished here.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  is  supplied  with  water,  and 
is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1868  it  became  the  capital 
of  the  State.  In  1870  the  population  was  21,789. 

SAYANNAH, 

The  largest  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Chatham  county,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Savannah  River,  18  miles  from  the  sea,  and  188 
miles  east-southeast  of  Milledgeville.  It  is  situated  on  a  sandy  plain 
about  40  feet  above  low-water  mark,  and  is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing cities  in  the  South.  Its  streets  are  wide  and  straight,  and  at 
every  other  corner  there  is  a  public  square,  usually  circular  or  oval  in 
41 


642 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SAVANNAH. 


shape,  planted  with  the  Pride  of  India.  The  streets  are  broad,  un- 
paved,  and  densely  shaded  with  magnificent  trees.  Broad  and  Bay 
streets  have  handsomely  turfed  promenades  in  the  centre,  with  car- 
riage ways  on  each  side.  There  is  also  a  broad  walk  on  each  side  of 
these  streets.  Its  beautiful  streets  have  gained  for  Savannah  the 
name  of  "  the  Forest  City "  of  the  South.  The  squares  are  orna- 
mented with  handsome  fountains,  statues,  monuments,  etc.  In  John- 
son 's  Square  stands  a  handsome  monument  erected  to  the  memories  of 
Generals  Greene  and  Pulaski.  It  is  of  pure  white  marble,  and  stands 
on  the  spot  where  Pulaski  fell  in  the  attack  on  the  city  by  the  Ameri- 
can army  in  1779.  It  cost  $22,000  in  gold. 

The  city  is  handsomely  built,  many  of  the  residences  being  of  brick. 
The  majority  are  of  wood,  however.  In  the  business  edifices  brick 
and  stone  are  extensively  employed. 

The  Public  Buildings  are  in  keeping  with  the  rest  of  the  city. 
The  principal  are  the  Exchange,  the  Court  House,  the  State  Arsenal, 
the  Custom  House,  the  Jail,  the  Lyceum,  Oglethorpe  and  St.  Andrew's 
Halls,  the  Armory,  the  Theatre,  and  the  Chatham  Academy. 


GEORGIA.  643 

The  schools  are  excellent,  and  the  free  schools  are  among  the  best 
in  the  South.  The  Benevolent  and  Charitable  Institutions  comprise 
the  Orphan  Asylum,  the  Union  Society,  founded  by  Whitfield,  the 
Hibernian  and  Seaman' 's  Friend  Societies,  the  Georgia  Infirmary,  and 
the  Savannah  Hospital.  The  State  Historical  Society  possesses  a  fine 
library.  The  city  contains  about  18  churches,  a  public  library,  sev- 
eral reading  rooms,  and  3  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas, 
is  supplied  with  pure  water,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council. 
It  is  considered  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  South  ;  and  is  im- 
proving in  this  respect  in  consequence  of  the  improved  manner  of 
cultivating  the  land  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  a  favorite  winter  resort  for 
invalids.  In  1870  the  population  was  28,235. 

In  the  vicinity  is  the  Cemetery  of  Bonaventure,  one  of  the  most  re- 
markably beautiful  spots  in  the  world. 

Savannah  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  State,  and  with  Charles- 
ton, S.  C.,  by  railway.  Steamers  navigate  the  Savannah  to  Augusta, 
and  an  active  coast  trade  is  maintained  with  the  Northern  and  South- 
ern ports  of  the  Union.  The  chief  articles  of  export  are  cotton,  rice, 
lumber,  and  naval  stores,  of  which  large  quantities  are  shipped  an- 
nually from  this  port.  The  trade  of  the  city  is  growing  rapidly. 

Savannah  was  founded  by  General  Oglethorpe,  in  1732  or  1733. 
It  was  captured  by  the  British  in  December,  1778,  and  was  evacuated 
by  them  in  1783.  In  1796,  and  again  in  1820,  it  suffered  severely 
from  fire.  In  December,  1864,  it  was  captured  by  the  United  States 
army,  under  General  Sherman,  and  was  held  by  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment until  the  close  of  the  civil  war.  On  the  28th  of  January,  1865, 
a  severe  fire  destroyed  a  considerable  portion  of  the  city. 

AUGUSTA, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Richmond  county,  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Savannah  River,  120  miles  north-northwest  from 
Savannah,  230  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  by  its  course,  and 
136  miles  northwest  of  Charleston.  It  lies  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Savannah,  and  controls  to  a  great  extent  the  lucrative  trade  of 
upper  Georgia.  It  is  one  of  the  handsomest  cities  in  the  South,  and 
is  laid  off  regularly,  with  broad,  straight  streets  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles.  Broad  street  is  the  main  thoroughfare,  and  is  lined 
with  substantial  buildings.  It  contains  the  principal  stores,  the 
hotels,  the  banks,  and  the  markets,  and  is  the  fashionable  promenade. 
The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  the  Masonic  Hall, 


G44  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  Richmond  Academy,  and  the  Medical  College.  The  city  contains 
about  14  churches,  several  excellent  public  and  private  schools,  an 
arsenal,  a  hospital,  and  about  4  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with 
gas,  and  supplied  with  pure  water. 

Having  railroad  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  country,  and 
water  transportation  to  Savannah,  Augusta  carries  on  a  large  trade. 
A  considerable  portion  of  the  produce  of  upper  and  central  Georgia 
finds  a  market  in  this  city.  Augusta  is  paying  considerable  attention 
to  manufactures,  a  canal,  9  miles  in  length,  bringing  the  waters  of  the 
upper  Savannah  into  the  city,  and  furnishing  a  fall  of  40  feet.  A 
bridge  connects  the  city  with  the  South  Carolina  shore.  Augusta  has 
grown  very  rapidly  during  the  past  ten  years.  In  1870,  the  popula- 
tion was  15,389. 

Augusta  was  laid  out  in  1735,  under  a  royal  charter.  It  was  again 
chartered  in  1798,  and  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1817. 

MACON, 

The  third  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Bibb  county,  on  both  sides 
of  the  Ocmulgee  River,  30  miles  southwest  of  Milledgeville,  and  191 
miles  west-northwest  of  Savannah.  It  is  a  handsomely  built  city,  and 
is  regularly  laid  out.  The  streets  are  usually  180  feet  in  width,  and 
are  lined  with  shade  trees.  The  city  is  built  of  brick  and  stone  to  a 
larger  extent  than  most  southern  towns,  and  presents  an  aspect  of 
solidity.  It  contains  a  number  of  elegant  residences,  and  some  o.f  the 
handsomest  public  buildings  in  the  State.  The  suburbs  are  very 
beautiful,  and  are  occupied  chiefly  with  private  residences. 

The  schools  of  Macon,  both  public  and  private,  have  long  been 
noted  for  their  excellence.  The  higher  schools  are  the  Wesley  an 
Female  College,  the  Academy  for  the  Blind,  and  the  Botanico- Medical 
College.  The  charitable  and  benevolent  institutions  are  well  con- 
ducted, and  are  doing  a  noble  work. 

The  city  is  the  point  of  intersection  of  three  railways,  and  possesses 
a  large  trade.  It  lies  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Ocmulgee, 
which  stream  is  navigated  by  small  steamers.  Macon  is  engaged  in 
manufactures  to  a  considerable  extent.  Cotton  goods,  iron  ware, 
machinery,  and  flour  are  the  principal  articles.  The  city  contains  a 
handsome  court-house,  about  7  churches,  and  several  newspaper 
offices,  and  is  lighted  with  gas  and  supplied  with  pure  water.  It  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  pdpulation  was 
10,810. 


GEORGIA.  645 

Although  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the  State,  Macon 
entirely  escaped  injury  during  the  civil  war. 

COLUMBUS, 

The  fifth  city  of  the  State,  and  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  South,  is 
situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Chattahoochee  River,  128  miles 
west-south  west  of  Milledgeville,  90  miles  west-southwest  of  Macon, 
and  290  miles  west  of  Savannah.  It  is  located  in  a  beautiful  country, 
and  is  handsomely  built.  The  city  extends  along  the  river  for  about 
a  mile  and  a  half,  and  is  over  half  a  mile  in  width.  It  is  laid  out  in* 
oblong  blocks,  each  of  which  contains  4  acres,  and  is  divided  into 
8  square  lots.  The  streets  are  from  99  to  165  feet  wide,  are  well 
shaded,  and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  business  streets 
are  well  built,  and  the  main  thoroughfare  is  lined  with  elegant  stores. 
The  private  residences  are  generally  surrounded  with  large  grounds, 
tastefully  ornamented  with  shrubbery,  flowers,  etc.,  and  many  of  them 
are  palatial. 

The  Court  House  is  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  State.  The 
city  contains  5  churches,  several  flourishing  schools,  public  and  pri- 
vate, and  2  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas  and  supplied 
with  pure  water.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  A  fine 
bridge  across  the  Chattahoochee  unites  it  with  Girard  Village,  in 
Alabama,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Previous  to  the  war,  the 
river  was  spanned  by  three  bridges  at  this  point.  In  1870,  the  popu- 
lation was  7401. 

Columbus  lies  in  the  heart  of  a  fine  agricultural  region,  and.  is  the 
centre  of  an  extensive  trade.  The  Chattahoochee  is  navigable  for 
light  draught  steamers,  from  Columbus  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  for  8 
months  in  the  year.  About  80,000  bales  of  cotton  are  shipped 
annually  from  this  place.  The  city  is  connected  by  railway  with  all 
parts  of  the  State. 

The  Chattahoochee  is  broken  at  Columbus  by  a  series  of  falls, 
which  furnish  excellent  water-power.  This  has  been  improved  by 
the  construction  of  a  dam  500  feet  long.  The  city  is  already  exten- 
sively engaged  in  manufactures,  and  it  is  believed  will  be  before  many 
years  one  of  the  principal  manufacturing  cities  of  the  South.  Cotton 
and  woollen  goods,  iron,  machinery,  and  agricultural  implements  are 
the  principal  articles. 

Columbus  was  laid  out  in  1827,  on  what  was  then  known  as  the 
Coweta  Reserve.  It  suffered  considerably  by  the  civil  war. 


646  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

MISCELLANY. 

THE   "EMPRESS"   OF    GEORGIA. 

Among  the  Georgia  settlers  was  a  man  by  the  name  of  Thomas  BosomwortTi, 
a  chaplain  in  the  regiment  of  Oglethorpe.  It  appears  that  he  was  an  arti'ul  and 
avaricious  man.  In  1747,  he  laid  a  plan  either  to  destroy  the  colony  or  acquire 
a  fortune.  Among  a  number  of  Indians  present  at  Frederica,  a  small  English 
settlement,  not  far  from  Savannah,  in  December,  was  an  Indian  king  by  the  name 
of  Nalatclw.  Bosoin worth  suggested  to  him  the  idea  of  being  crowned  in  imperial 
form,  by  those  of  his  tribe  who  were  with  him  :  accordingly,  a  paper  was  drawn 
up,  filled  with  royal  ceremonies,  acknowledging  Malatche  Opiya  Meco  to  be  the 
rightful,  natural  prince  and  emperor  of  the  dominions  of  the  Creek  Nation  ;  vest- 
ing him  with  powers  to  make  laws,  frame  treaties,  declare  war,  convey  lands, 
and  transact  all  affairs  relating  to  the  nation  ;  binding  themselves,  on  the  part  of 
their  several  towns,  to  abide  by  and  fulfil  all  his  contracts  and  engagements. 
This  paper  being  signed  and  sealed  by  the  pretended  kings  and  chiefs,  and  wit- 
nessed in  clue  form,  Malatche  requested  that  a  copy  of  it  might  be  sent  over  to 
the  king  of  England,  for  his  sanction,  and  to  have  it  put  on  record  among  the 
archives  of  his  great  ally. 

Bosomworth  had  thus  accomplished  an  important  object.  He  had  some  time 
before  married  Mary  Musgrove,  a  half-breed  Indian.  He  now  drew  up  a  deed 
of  conveyance  in  the  common  form,  from  Malatche  Opiya  Meco,  Emperor  of  the 
Upper  and  Lower  Creek  Nations,  to  Thomas  and  Mary  Bosomworth,  of  the 
Colony  of  Georgia,  "for,  and  in  consideration  of  ten  pieces  of  stroud,  twelve 
pieces  of  duffles,  two  hundred  weight  of  powder,  two  hundred  weight  of  lead, 
twenty  guns,  twelve  pair  of  pistols,  and  one  hundred  weight  of  vermilion  ;  war- 
ranting and  defending  to  the  said  Thomas  and  Mary  all  those  tracts  of  land 
known  by  the  names  of  Hussoope,  or  Ossabaw,  Cowleygee,  or  St.  Catherines, 
and  Sapelo  islands,  with  their  appurtenances,  etc.,  to  the  said  Thomas  and  Mary 
his  wife,  their  heirs  and  assigns,  as  long  as  the  sun  shall  shine,  or  the  waters  run 
in  the  rivers,  forever.  Signed  on  the  4th  day  of  the  windy  moon,  corresponding 
with  the  14th  of  December." 

His  next  object  was  to  induce  Mary  to  claim  to  be  the  elder  sister  of  Malatche, 
and  of  having  descended  in  a  maternal  line  from  an  Indian  king,  who  held  from 
nature  the  whole  territories  of  the  Creeks ;  and  Bosomworth  now  persuaded  her 
to  assert  her  right  to  them,  as  superior  not  only  to  the  trustees,  but  also  to  that 
of  the  king. 

Accordingly,  Maiy  assumed  the  title  of  an  independent  Empress.  A  meeting 
of  the  Creeks  was  summoned,  before  which  she  set  forth  her  claims.  The  Indians 
became  fired  through  her  eloquence,  and  escorted  her  towards  Savannah  to  prose- 
cute her  claim. 

A  messenger  was  dispatched  to  notify  the  president  and  council  of  the  royal 
family's  approach.  On  receiving  this  intelligence,  the  council  felt  embarrassed. 
Mary  was  an  artful  and  eloquent  woman  ;  the  English  were  few  in  number,  and 
small  their  means  of  defence.  The  militia  were  ordered  under  arms.  Captain 
Noble  Jones,  at  the  head  of  a  troop,  was  dispatched  to  prevent,  if  possible,  their 
entrance  into  Savannah  armed.  Having  met  them,  he  ordered  them  to  stop  and 
lay  down  their  arms.  At  first  they  refused  ;  but  his  determined  appearance  at 
length  prevailed,  and  they  laid  aside  their  arms,  upon  which  Thomas  Bosom- 


GEORGIA.  047 

worth,  in  his  canonical  robes,  with  his  queen  by  his  side,  followed  by  the  kin^ 
and  chiefs,  marched  into  the  town. 

The  inhabitants  were  struck  with  terror  at  the  sight  of  this  ferocious  tribe  of 
savages.  When  they  advanced  up  to  the  parade,  they  found  the  militia  drawn 
up  under  arms  to  receive  them,  by  whom  they  were  saluted  with  fifteen  cannons, 
and  conducted  to  the  president's  house.  Bosomworth  being  ordered  to  with 
draw,  the  Indian  chiefs,  in  a  friendly  manner,  were  requested  to  declare  their  in- 
tention in  paying  this  visit  in  so  large  a  body,  without  being  sent  for  by  any 
person  in  authority  :  the  warriors,  as  they  had  been  instructed,  answered  that 
Mary  was  to  speak  for  them,  and  that  they  would  abide  by  whatever  she  said  ; 
that  they  had  heard  that  she  was  to  be  sent  like  a  captive  over  the  great  waters, 
and  they  were  come  to  know  on  what  account  they  were  to  lose  their  queen  ; 
that  they  intended  no  harm,  and  begged  that  their  arms  might  be  restored  to 
them  ;  and  after  consulting  with  Bosomworth  and  his  wife,  they  would  return 
and  amicably  settle  all  public  affairs.  To  please  them,  their  guns  were  returned, 
but  strict  orders  were  issued  to  allow  them  no  ammunition,  until  the  council 
should  see  more  clearly  into  their  dark  designs.  On  the  day  following,  the 
Indians,  having  had  some  private  conferences  with  Mary,  were  observed,  with 
sullen  countenances,  to  march  in  a  tumultuous  manner  through  the  streets,  evi- 
dencing a  hostile  temper,  apparently  determined  on  mischief:  all  the  men  being 
obliged  to  mount  guard,  the  women  and  children  were  terrified  and  afraid  to  re- 
main in  the  houses  by  themselves,  expecting  every  moment  to  be  murdered  and 
scalped.  During  this  confusion,  a  false  rumor  was  circulated,  that  they  had  cut 
off  President  Stephen's  head  with  a  tomahawk,  which  so  exasperated  the  inhabi- 
tants that  it  was  with  difficulty  the  officers  could  restrain  the  troops  from  firing 
upon  the  savages :  perhaps  the  exercise  of  the  greatest  prudence  was  never  more 
requisite  to  save  the  town  from  being  deluged  with  blood.  Orders  were  given  to 
lay  hold  on  Bosomworth,  to  whom  it  was  insinuated  that  he  was  marked  as  the 
first  victim  in  case  of  extremities;  and  he  was  carried  out  of  the  way,  and  closely 
confined,  upon  which  Mary,  his  beloved  queen,  became  outrageous  and  frantic, 
and  threatened  the  thunder  of  her  vengeance  against  the  magistrates,  and  the 
whole  colony  :  she  ordered  all  white  persons  to  depart  immediately  from  her  ter- 
ritories, and  at  their  peril  to  refuse  ;  she  cursed  Oglethorpe  and  his  fraudulent 
treaties,  and,  furiously  stamping  her  foot  upon  the  earth,  swore  by  her  Maker  that 
the  whole  globe  should  know  that  the  ground  she  stood  upon  was  her  own.  To 
prevent  any  ascendancy  by  bribes  over  the  chiefs  and  warriors,  she  kept  the 
leading  men  constantly  under  her  eye,  and  would  not  suffer  them  to  utter  a  sen- 
tence on  public  affairs,  but  in  her  presence. 

The  president,  finding  no  peaceable  agreement  could  be  made  with  the  Indians 
while  under  the  baleful  influence  of  their  pretended  queen,  ordered  her  to  be 
seized  and  confined.  To  allay  the  storm  of  indignation  excited  by  this,  a  feast 
was  made  for  the  Indians,  at  which  the  evil  designs  of  Bosomworth  were  un- 
folded in  a  speech  by  the  president.  This  had  a  temporary  effect.  Even  Malatche 
seemed  satisfied.  But  wishing  to  see  Bosomworth  and  his  wife  alone  for  a  few 
minutes,  the  artful  couple  again  seduced  the  aged  chief,  who  returned  to  the 
council  full  of  indignation,  insisting  on  the  rights  of  the  queen.  Upon  this,  the 
president  rose,  and  in  a  short  but  plain  address,  so  set  forth  the  impositions  of 
Bosomworth  and  Mary,  that  the  Indians  said  they  were  satisfied ;  their  eyes  were 
opened,  and  they  now  offered  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace.  Accordingly,  pipes 
and  rum  were  brought,  and  they  joined  hand  in  hand  and  smoked  together. 
Presents  were  distributed,  and  all  appeared  satisfied  and  happy. 


C48  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

But  in  the  midst  of  this  friendly  interview,  Mary,  who  by  some  means  had 
contrived  to  escape,  rushed  in  like  a  fury,  and  insultingly  told  the  president  that 
she  would  soon  convince  him  that  the  Indians  were  her  people,  and  that  he  had 
no  business  with  them. 

The  president  advised  her  quietly  to  retire  to  her  lodgings,  or  he  would  send 
.her  to  prison.  Upon  this  Malatche  took  fire  ;  and,  swinging  his  arms,  declared 
that  no  one  should  touch  the  queen.  The  house  was  filled  in  a  moment  with 
tumult ;  every  Indian  having  his  tomahawk  in  his  hand,  and  the  president  and 
council  expecting  nothing  but  instant  death.  At  this  critical  juncture,  Captain 
Noble  Jones  with  his  guard  interposed,  and  required  the  Indians  to  surrender ; 
they  did  so  with  great  reluctance.  Mary  was  conveyed  to  a  safe  place.  Bosom- 
worth  was  sent  for ;  but  for  a  time  treated  the  council  with  great  indignity.  At 
length,  through  the  interposition  of  Bosomworth's  brother,  the  difficulty  was 
settled.  This  rash  and  wicked  man  was  forgiven,  and  the  idle  claims  of  Mary 
were  relinquished. 

They  were,  however,  afterwards  renewed  ;  Bosomworth  himself  instituted  a 
suit  in  England,  founded  upon  his  deed  from  the  Indians.  This  case  was  in  the 
courts  of  Great  Britain  twelve  years.  In  1759,  a  decision  was  made  at  the  Court 
of  St.  James,  granting  to  Bosomworth  and  his  wife  the  island  of  St.  Catherines. 
Bosomworth  and  Mary  took  possession  of  the  island.  There,  some  time  after, 
Mary  died,  and  Bosomworth  married  his  chambermaid.  Finally,  the  remains  of 
these  two  were  deposited  in  the  same  graveyard,  on  the  island  for  which  they 
had  so  long  contended. 


FLORIDA. 

Area,       59,268  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860 140,425 

(Whites,  77,748; 'Negroes,  62,677.) 

Population  in  1870, 187,748 

THE  State  of  Florida  is  situated  between  25°  and  31°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  80°  and  87°  44'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Alabama  and  Georgia,  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
on  the  south  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  and  Alabama.  The  southern  part  of  the  State  forms  a  large 
peninsula.  In  the  eastern  part,  Florida  is  about  385  miles  long  from 
north  to  south.  Its  width  along  its  northern  border  is  about  250 
miles  from  east  to  west.  The  average  width  of  the  peninsula  is  about 
80  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

"  Florida,"  says  Professor  Do  Bow,  "  is  generally  level,  probably 
never  elevated  more  than  250  or  300  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  peninsula  is  covered  with  a  large  sheet  of  water,  called 
the  Everglades,  of  an  immense  extent  (filled  with  islands),  which  it  is 
supposed  may  be  rendered  available  by  drainage.  The  central  por- 
tion of  the  peninsula  is  somewhat  elevated,  the  highest  point  being 
about  171  feet  above  the  ocean,  and  gradually  declining  towards  the 
coast  on  each  side.  The  country  between  the  Suwanee  and  Chatta- 
hoochee  is  elevated  and  hilly,  and  the  western  portion  of  the  State  is 
level.  The  lands  of  Florida  are  almost  sui  generis,  very  curiously 
distributed,  and  may  be  designated  as  high  hummock,  low  hummock, 
swamp,  savanna,  and  the  different  qualities  of  pine  land.  High 
hummock  is  usually  timbered  with  live  and  other  oaks,  magnolia, 

649 

ft 


650  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

laurel,  etc.,  and  is  considered  the  best  description  of  land  for  general 
purposes.  Low  hummock,  timbered  with  live  and  water  oak,  is  sub- 
ject to  overflow,  but  when  drained  is  preferred  for  sugar.  Savannas, 
on  the  margins  of  streams,  and  in  detached  bodies,  are  usually  very 
rich  alluvions,  and  yielding  largely  in  dry,  but  needing  ditching  and 
dyking  in  ordinary  seasons.  Marsh  savannas,  on  the  borders  of  tide 
streams,  are  very  valuable,  when  reclaimed,  for  rice  or  sugar-cane." 

Southwest  of  Florida,  is  a  chain  of  small  rocky  islands,  called  the 
Florida  Keys.  They  are  inhabited  principally  by  wreckers,  and  by 
persons  engaged  in  the  fisheries  and  the  manufacture  of  salt.  The 
largest  and  most  important  of  these  is  Key  West,  which  is  strongly 
fortified,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  naval  stations  of  the  Union. 

The  Sea  Islands  extend  from  South  Carolina  and  Georgia,  along 
the  northeast  coast  of  Florida,  and  are  among  the  finest  and  most 
productive  parts  of  the  State.  The  Everglades  cover  an  immense 
area,  about  160  miles  long,  and  60  miles  broad.  Professor  De  Bow 
speaks  of  them  as  a  vast  lake,  filled  with  innumerable  islands  of  all 
sizes,  which  are  covered  with  a  low  dense  undergrowth,  out  of  which 
occasionally  rises  a  huge  pine  or  palmetto.  The  water  is  6  or  8  feet 
deep,  and  is  filled  with  a  long  rank  grass  which  grows  from  a  vegeta- 
ble deposit  at  the  bottom.  The  banana  and  plantain  grow  well  in 
this  region. 

The  principal  bays  are  Pensacola,  Choctawhatchie,  St.  Andrew's 
St.  Joseph's,  Appalachicola,  Appalachie,  Waccasassa,  Tampa,  Char- 
lotte Harbor,  Oyster,  and  Ponce  de  Leon  bays,  all  on  the  west  side. 
Pensacola  Bay  affords  an  excellent  harbor,  and  is  the  principal  naval 
station  of  the  Republic  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  rivers  of  the  State  are  the  Perdido,  a  small  stream  separating 
Florida  from  Alabama  on  the  west ;  the  Escambia,  Yell-sow,  Choctaw- 
hatchie, Ocklockonee,  and  Suwanee,  which  rise  in  Alabama  and  Geor- 
gia and  flow  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  south,  none  of  them  be- 
ing over  50  or  60  miles  in  length.  The  others  are  the  Carlosahatchie, 
through  which  Lake  Okeechobee  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Gulf, 
the  Withlacoochee  and  Tampa,  on  the  west,  and  the  St.  Mary's  (partly 
separating  the  State  from  Georgia),  the  St.  John's,  and  Indian  rivers, 
emptying  into  the  Atlantic  on  the  east.  The  Indian  River  is  a  mere 
inlet  from  the  ocean  entering  the  State  at  its  southeast  part,  and  ex- 
tending north  and  south.  It  is  about  100  miles  long,  and  of  very 
unequal  breadth.  The  St.  John's  is  the  principal  river  of  Florida. 
It  rises  in  a  marshy  tract  near  the  central  part  of  the  peninsula,  and 


FLORIDA. 


651 


JOHN'S  RIVER. 


flows  in  a  generally  northwest  course  into  the  Atlantic  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  State.  It  is  over  200  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for 
steamers  to  Pilatka,  about  60  miles.  Vessels  drawing  8  feet  of  water 
ascend  the  river  for  107  miles.  The  country  along  the  greater  portion 
of  the  stream  is  a  region  of  cypress  swamps  and  pine  barrens.  The 
Appalachicola  is  navigable  for  vessels  to  its  head. 

A  chain  of  lakes  extends  through  the  centre  of  the  peninsula.    The 
most  southern  of  these  is  Lake  Okeechobee,  about  20  miles  long. 


CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  mild  and  pleasant.  It  partakes  largely  of  the 
characteristics  of  the  torrid  zone,  on  the  borders  of  which  the  State 
lies.  It  is  of  great  benefit  to  invalids.  A  writer  in  the  New  York 
Observer  thus  speaks  of  it : 

"  As  to  the  most  desirable  localities  for  invalids,  the  most  accessible 
are  on  the  St.  John's  River  and  St.  Augustine.  The  interior  or  cen- 
tral portion  of  the  peninsula  may  present  a  climate  even  better  for 


652  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

pulmonary  invalids;  but  those  parts  of  the  country  are  not  supplied 

with  suitable  accommodations,  and  are  not  much  visited 

"  Range  of  the  thermometer  and  the  weather.  The  Army  Mateoro- 
logical  Register  gives  the  monthly  mean  temperature  for  20  years  at 
St.  Augustine,  and  for  31  years  at  West  Point,  IS".  Y.,  as  follows  : 

Jan.          Feb.         Mar.         Apr.        May.          Oct.          Nov.         Dec. 

.     St.  Augustine.... 57- 03    59'94    63'34    68'78    73'50    71" 88    64' 12    57'26 
West  Point 28'28    28'83    37'63    48'70    59'82    53'04    42'23    31'98 

"  Most  of  the  common  garden  vegetables  flourish  all  winter,  oranges 
ripen  on  the  trees,  roses  bloom,  and  mocking-birds  sing.  A  few  times 
we  have  frost — three  times,  I  believe,  last  winter.  Do  not  suppose 
there  are  no  changes  of  temperature,  though  there  are  fewer  than  in 
any  other  State.  There  are  many,  and,  at  times,  they  are  sudden ; 
but  the  thermometer  rarely  goes  down  to  freezing,  and  the  shock  is 
far  less  to  a  delicate  constitution  than  where  it  goes  far  below.  Dur- 
ing the  greater  part  of  the  time  the  sun  shines  brightly,  and  invalids 
can  be  in  the  open  air.  This  is  the  greatest  benefit  of  the  climate.  I 
have  known  many  who  dared  not  set  foot  on  the  ground  from  Novem- 
ber to  April  at  the  North,  who  have  spent  part  of  every  day  walking, 
riding,  playing  croquet,  or  hunting  and  fishing.  Often,  parties  are 
formed  who  go  down  the  peninsula,  camping  out,  and,  as  they  get 
beyond  the  reach  of  frost  within  100  miles  south  of  St.  Augustine, 
suc'h  life  is  most  enjoyable  for  those  who  have  strength  for  it.  Much 
of  the  time  during  every  winter  we  sit  with  open  doors  and  windows. 
Above  all  things,  it  is  important  for  those  who  come  here  for  health 
to  keep  as  much  as  possible  in  the  open  air." 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  is  generally  sandy.  In  the  hummocks,  however,  it  is 
mixed  with  clay.  It  is  fertile,  and  yields  abundant  returns  with 
judicious  culture.  The  best  lands  in  the  State  are  in  the  marshes. 
With  a  proper  system  of  drainage  they  could  be  made  the  most  pro- 
ductive spots  in  America. 

The  natural  growth  of  the  State  is  very  rich.  The  live  oak  and 
other  varieties  of  this  tree,  so  highly  prized  by  ship-builders ;  the 
Cyprus,  pine,  hickory,  dogwood,  magnolia  and  laurel  abound.  The 
timber  trade  of  the  State  is  very  valuable,  and  is  growing  in  impor- 
tance every  year. 

"Cotton,  corn,  sugar-cane,  rice,  potatoes,  and  fruits  are  the  princi- 


FLORIDA.  653 

pal  crops,  but  under  the  present  system  of  culture  yields  are  small 
and  agriculture  not  profitable.  In  a  number  of  counties  cotton  has 
been  the  specialty,  but  under  present  prices  its  production  will  doubt- 
less decline  in  favor  of  other  crops.  Sugar-cane  is  considered  a  good 
crop,  and  is  getting  more  in  favor ;  it  is  easily  cultivated,  and,  as  our 
Leon  correspondent  says,  'would  be  a  good  crop  for  white  labor/ 
In  Baker  county,  sea-island  cotton  and  sugar-cane  are  the  chief  pro- 
ductions. Duval  county,  sweet  potatoes,  corn,  and  sugar-cane ;  corn 
yielding  twenty  bushels  per  acre,  sweet  potatoes  one  hundred  to  two 
hundred  bushels,  sugar-cane  two  hundred  gallons  syrup  and  two 
hundred  pounds  of  sugar;  the  latter  is  the  most  profitable  crop.  In 
Alachua,  sea-island  cotton  is  the  specialty,  of  which  our  reporter 
says :  '  The  price  of  this  cotton  last  year  ranged  from  40  cents  to 
$1.60  per  pound  ;  this  year,  from  85  to  90  cents.  The  average  yield 
is  about  eighty-five  pounds  of  lint  per  acre,  but  as  high  as  four 
hundred  pounds  have  been  raised.  At  50  cents,  with  the  present 
labor,  it  is  a  paying  cropt  Cotton  is  a  hard  crop  to  raise,  takes  the 
whole  year,  and,  for  the  labor  expended,  is' the  least  paying  crop  in 
the  country.  During  the  past  season  ninety-nine  out  of  every 
hundred  have  lost  money.  Corn  produces  an  average  of  eight 
bushels  on  pine  lands,  and  fifteen  bushels  on  hummocks.  Sugar-cane 
does  well,  but  is  raised  for  home  consumption  only/  Wheat  is  not 
grown  as  a  crop  in  Florida,  though  a  correspondent  writes  from  Levy 
county,  that  he  thinks  it  would  do  well  on  their  hummock  lands ;  and 
our  Manatee  reporter  says  he  has  sown  a  package  sent  from  this 
department,  and  it  now  looks  as  well  as  he  has  ever  seen  wheat  in 
Maryland  or  elsewhere.  There  are  a  variety  of  natural  grasses  grow- 
ing throughout  the  State,  and,  as  a  general  rule,  cattle  are  pastured 
on  the  wild  lands  and  without  expense,  frequently  the  whole  year 
round.  Among  the  grasses  named  by  our  correspondents  are, 
Bermuda  grass,  crab-grass,  crow-foot,  joint-grass,  carpet-grass,  wire^- 
grass,  etc.  Our  Levy  county  correspondent  writes : — '  The  grasses 
are  all  wild ;  stock  runs  out  all  the  year  in  the  woods.  They  are 
gathered  in  the  spring,  and  penned  every  night  until  about  August, 
when  they  are  again  turned  out  to  run  during  the  fall  and  winter. 
While  kept  up  they  are  branded,  and  the  cows  are  milked,  though 
they  are  generally  small,  and  give  but  little  milk,  from  one  to  three 
quarts  per  day/  "  *  Tropical  fruits  are  easily  cultivated  in  this  State, 

*  Agricultural  Report  for  February,  1868. 


654  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Oranges  and  lemons  are  raised  in  considerable  quantities;  also, 
bananas,  citrons,  figs  and  other  fruits,  and  it  is  believed  that  coffee 
can  be  successfully  cultivated  in  the  southern  part. 

The  agricultural  wealth  of  the  State  may  be  given  as  follows: 

Acres  of  improved  land, 750,000 

Bushels  of  Indian  corn, 2,500,000 

Pounds  of  tobacco, 250,000 

Bales  of  cotton, 50,000 

Pounds  of  rice, 425,000 

Bushels  of  peas  and  beans, 65,000 

"            sweet  potatoes, 800,000 

Hhds.  of  cane  sugar, 1,500 

Number  of  horses 12,000 

milch  cows 03,000 

"           asses  and  mules, 9,000 

"           swine, 160,000 

"           sheep, 30,000 

The  undergrowth  of  the  State,  as  we  hate  remarked,  is  very  rank. 
Huge  alligators  and  snakes  abound  in  the  swamps;  the  rivers  are  well 
stocked  with  fish ;  and  turtle,  oysters  and  wild  fowl  abound  along 
the  coast. 

COMMERCE. 

This  State  has  little  or  no  foreign  commerce.  Its  trade  is  almost 
entirely  with  the  States  north  of  it,  and  its  exports  consist  of  cotton, 
rice,  naval  stores,  and  fruits.  In  1860  the  exports  of  the  State 
amounted  to  $1,330,230,  and  the  imports  to  $336,931. 

MANUFACTURES. 

Very  little  attention  is  paid  to  manufactures.  In  1860  the  capital 
invested  in  them  amounted  to  $6,675,000.  The  annual  product  was 
valued  at  $2,700,000.  The  lumber  trade  almost  monopolized  this, 
the  value  of  sawed  and  planed  lumber  being  $1,470,000. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872  there  were  466  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Florida,  con- 
structed at  a  cost  of  about  $9,000,000.  The  principal  towns  are  con- 
nected with  each  other,  and  with  all  parts  of  the  Union  by  railroad. 


FLORIDA.  C55 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870  there  were  223  public  schools  in  Florida,  with  10,132  pupils, 
and  1 54  other  schools  and  academies,  with  over  10,000  pupils.  They  were 
nearly  all  closed  by  the  war.  The  new  Constitution  makes  provision 
for  a  system  of  public  free  schools,  which  are  to  be  supported  by  a 
special  tax  levied  by  the  Legislature,  and  a  permanent  school  fund 
nits  been  created.  The  system  is  in  charge  of  a  State  Superintendent 
of  Public  Instruction.  This  officer,  and  the  Secretary  of  State  and 
Attorney-General,  constitute  the  State  Board  of  Education.  Two 
State  seminaries,  the  east  Florida  and  west  Florida,  have  been  estab- 
lished. The  State  Superintendent,  in  his  report  for  1870,  says  free 
schools  are  gaining  in  favor  with  the  people. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

This  State  has  no  penitentiary  or  charitable  asylums.  The  Consti- 
tution makes  provision  for  them,  and  the  Governor  strongly  recom- 
mends their  establishment.  Criminals  are  supported  in  idleness  in 
the  county  prisons,  by  the  State,  which  receives  no  return  for  this 
outlay.  The  Governor,  in  his  message  for  1868,  declared  that  this 
expense  was  so  heavy  that  he  was  compelled  to  pardon  many  criminals 
in  order  to  save  the  State  from  bankruptcy. 

RELIGIOUS  DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870  there  were  390  churches  in  Florida,  and  the  value  of  church 
property    was    $426,520.       Many    of  the   churches   were   destroyed 


during  the  war. 


FINANCES. 


On  the  1st  of  January,  1871,  the  State  debt  amounted  to  $1,288,- 
697,  including  $276,325  in  outstanding  Comptroller's  warrants  and 
Treasurer's  certificates.  The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  year 
1870  were  $230,764,  and  the  expenditures  $208,587. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  the  State  was  ratified  by  the  people  in 
May,  1868.  Every  male  person  twenty-one  years  old,  without 
regard  to  race,  color,  nationality,  or  previous  condition,  who  is  a 
citizen  of  the  United  States,  or  who  shall  have  legally  declared  hi? 


656  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

intention  to  become  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  who  shall  have 
resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  in  the  county  six  months,  is  entitled 
to  vote  at  the  elections.  Persons  coming  of  age,  or  becoming  citizens 
after  1880,  will  not  be  allowed  to  vote  without  being  able  to  read  and 
write,  but  no  one  who  is  an  elector  previous  to  that  year  shall  be 
afterwards  deprived  of  the  elective  franchise  because  of  such  ignorance. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Comptroller,  Treasurer,  and  Attorney-General, 
and  a  Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  24  members,  chosen  for 
four  years,  one-half  retiring  biennially),  and  an  Assembly  (of  53 
members,  elected  for  two  years).  The  Seminole  Indians  are  entitled 
to  one  member  in  the  Assembly.  He  must  be  a  member  of  that  tribe, 
and  chosen  by  the  qualified  electors  thereof.  The  Governor  and 
Lieutenant-Governor  are  chosen  for  four  years  by  the  people.  The 
Executive  officers  are  appointed  by  the  Governor  and  confirmed  by 
the  Senate.  The  Legislature  meets  annually.  - 

The  courts  of  the  State  are  the  Supreme  Court,  seven  Circuit 
Courts,  and  a  County  Court  in  each  county.  All  the  judges  are 
appointed  by  the  Governor  and  confirmed  by  the  Senate.  The  Su- 
preme Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and  two  Associate  Justices. 

For  purposes  of  Government  the  State  is  divided  into  37  counties. 
The  seat  of  government  is  located  at  Tallahassee. 

HISTORY. 

Florida  was  discovered  by  the  Spaniards,  on  Easter  Sunday,  Pas- 
cua  Florida,  and  partly  on  this  account,  and  partly  because  of  its  natu- 
ral beauty,  was  given  its  present  name,  which  signifies  if  the  flowery." 
It  was  first  visited  by  Ponce  de  Leon,  in  1513.  Subsequently,  Yas- 
quez,  a  Spaniard  (in  1520),  Yerazzani,  a  Florentine  (in  1523),  and  De 
Geray,  a  Spaniard  (in  1524),  made  voyages  to  it.  In  1526,  Charles 
Y.,  of  Spain,  granted  all  the  lands  between  Cape  Florida  and  the  Rio 
Panuco  to  Pampilo  de  Narvaez,  who,  in  1528,  landed  at  Appalachee 
with  a  considerable  military  force.  He  was  stoutly  resisted  by  the 
Indian  tribes,  and  was  finally  shipwrecked  and  drowned  on  the  coast, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Panuco.  Only  ten  of  his  followers  returned  to 
Europe.  In  1539,  Florida  was  explored  by  Fernando  de  Soto,  who 
penetrated  as  far  into  the  continent  as  the  Mississippi  River.  Some 
years  later  a  colony  of  French  Huguenots  was  established  in  Florida. 
The  Spaniards  attacked  them  in  1564,  and  hanged  many  of  them  on 
the  trees.  Having  driven  out  the  French,  they  built  a  fort  on  the 


FLORIDA.  G57 

spot.  It  was  subsequently  taken  by  a  French  expedition,  and  the 
garrison  hanged,  in  retaliation  for  the  original  murders.  In  1565, 
the  Spaniards  founded  the  city  of  St.  Augustine,  now  the  oldest  Euro- 
pean settlement  in  the  Union.  They  held  it  until  1586,  when  it  was 
captured  by  the  English  under  Sir  Francis  Drake. 

In  1696,  Pensacola  was  settled  by  the  French.  The  English  had 
claimed  the  northeastern  part  of  the  country  nearly  a  century  before, 
and  now  made  frequent  inroads  upon  the  Spanish  settlements.  In 
1702,  an  expedition  from  Carolina  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to 
capture  St.  Augustine,  and  the  next  year  took  Fort  St.  Mark.  The 
expedition  of  Oglethorpe,  and  the  counter  invasion  of  Georgia  by  the 
Spaniards,  have  already  been  related  in  the  preceding  chapter. 

In  1763,  Spain  ceded  the  whole  of  Florida  to  Great  Britain,  in 
exchange  for  the  Island  of  Cuba,  which  had  been  captured  by  the 
English.  The  country  was  now  divided  into  two  provinces,  the  Appa- 
lachicola  River  being  the  dividing  line.  Many  settlers  came  over  from 
Carolina,  and  a  number  of  emigrants  arrived  from  Italy  and  the  islands 
of  the  Mediterranean.  The  English  held  the  country  during  the 
Revolution,  and  sent  out  many  privateers  from  it,  and  incited  the 
Indians  to  hostilities  against  the  Americans  in  Carolina  and  Georgia* 
In  1778,  General  Prevost  invaded  Georgia,  from  this  State,  and  cap- 
tured Savannah  and  other  towns.  •  This  withdrawal  of  his  forces, 
however,  left  Forida  at  the  mercy  of  the  Spaniards,  who  at  once 
entered  it,  and  in  1781  captured  Pensacola,  and  occupied  a  consid- 
erable part  of  the  province.  The  treaty  of  1783  restored  Florida  to 
Spain,  upon  which  the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  abandoned  it,  and 
removed  to  the  United  States.  The  cession  of  Louisiana  to  the 
United  States,  by  France,  gave  the  former  country  a  claim  to  the 
country  west  of  the  Perdido  River,  which  now  comprises  the  extreme 
southern  end  of  Alabama.  This  section  was  promptly  occupied  by 
the  Federal  army.  During  the  second  war  with  England,  it  was 
ascertained  that  the  British  had  been  allowed  by  the  Spaniards  to  fit 
out  an  expedition  against  the  United  States  from  Pensacola.  General 
Jackson  at  once  entered  Florida  with  his  army,  and  captured  Pensacola. 
He  retook  the  town  in  1818,  and  also  Fort  St.  Mark,  but  they  were 
restored  to  Spain,  who,  in  1819,  sold  the  whole  province  to  the  United 
States.  The  American  authority  was  established  in  Florida,  in  1821. 
Emigrants  at  once  commenced  to  flock  thither,  and  the  territory  began 
to  prosper.  The  growth  of  Florida  was  much  impeded  by  the  war 
broke  out  in  1835,  between  the  Government  and  the  Seminole 
42 


658  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Indians,  who  occupied  the  best  lands  in  the  State,  and  refused  to  allow 
the  whites  to  settle  upon  them.  The  war  lasted  until  May,  1858, 
when  the  Seminoles  agreed  to  remove  to  the  West,  and  were  at  once 
conveyed  thither.  The  war  cost  the  Government  over  $30,000,000 
and  thousands  of  lives. 

Florida  was  organized  as  a  territory  in  1819,  and  admitted  into 
the  Union  as  a  slaveholding  State,  on  the  3d  of  March,  1845.  It 
seceded  from  the  Union  on  the  10th  of  January,  1861,  and  joined  the 
Southern  Confederacy.  The  State  authorities,  in  January,  1861, 
seized  the  navy  yard  and  the  forts  at  Pensacola,  with  the  exception  of 
Fort  Pickens,  on  Santa  Rosa  Island,  in  Pensacola  Bay,  which  was 
held  by  its  commander,  Lieutenant  Slemmer.  It  was  afterwards 
strongly  reinforced,  and  on  several  occasions  bombarded  the  Confed- 
erate works  at  Pensacola. 

The  State  suffered  much  during  the  war.  Key  West,  the  Tortugas, 
and  Fort  Pickens  were  held  by  the  Government  from  the  beginning 
of  the  struggle,  and  afforded  ready  means  of  entering  its  territory ; 
while  the  possession  of  Port  Royal,  in  South  Carolina,  by  the  National 
forces,  placed  northeasern  Florida  at  their  mercy.  A  large  part 
of  the  plantations  were  ruined,  several  towns  were  destroyed,  and 
others  more  or  less  injured,  and  several  severe  battles  were  fought 
within  the  limits  of  the  State.  Slavery  was  abolished  by  the  result 
of  the  war,  but  by  that  time  desertions  and  disease  had  greatly 
reduced  the  negro  population.  At  the  close  of  the  civil  war,  a  Pro- 
visional Government  was  established  by  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  which  was  the  next  year  repudiated  by  Congress.  In  1867, 
the  State  was  made  a  part  of  the  Third  Military  District,  the  head- 
quarters of  which  were  at  Atlanta,  Georgia.  In  January,  1868,  a 
State  Convention  assembled  at  Tallahassee,  and  adopted  a  Constitution, 
which  was  ratified  by  the  people  on  the  6th  of  May,  and  Congress, 
approving  this  action,  readmitted  the  State  into  the  Union  on  the  25th 
of  June,  1868. 

CITIES    AND    TOWNS. 

Beside  the  capital,  the  principal  towns  are,  Pensacola,  Key  West 
City,  Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine,  Quincy,  and  Monticello. 

TALLAHASSEE, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Leon  county,  about  25  miles 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  194  miles  east  of  Mobile.     Latitude, 


FLORIDA.  658 

30°  28'  N.;  longitude,  84°  36'  W.  The  city  lies  on  elevated  ground, 
is  regularly  laid  out,  and  contains  several  tasteful  public  squares.  It 
is  well  built,  and  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  healthiest  and  pleasantest 
cities  in  the  South.  It  lies  in  the  heart  of  the  most  populous  and  fer- 
tile portion  of  the  State,  and  is  connected  with  the  Atlantic  and  Gulf 
coasts,  and  with  Savannah,  Ga.,  by  railway.  It  contains  the  State 
House,  Court  House,  a  jail,  a  Land  Office  of  the  United  States,  several 
churches,  several  fine  schools,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  It  is  gov- 
erned by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  Its  importance  is  due  solely  to  its 
being  the  capital  of  the  State.  In  1870  the  population  was  2023. 

PENSACOLA 

Is  situated  in  Escambia  county,  on  the  west  shore  of  Pensacola  Bay, 
about  10  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  180  miles  west  of  Talla- 
hassee, and  64  miles  east  of  Mobile.  It  is  one  of  the  principal  places 
in  the  State,  and  now  that  it  has  railway  communication  with  the  rest 
of  the  Union,  is  rapidly  growing  in  its  commercial  importance.  It 
possesses  an  admirable  harbor,  admitting  vessels  drawing  21  feet  of 
water.  The  town  is  a  naval  station  of  the  United  States,  and  con- 
tains an  important  navy  yard.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  de- 
fended by  Fort  Pickens,  on  Santa  Rosa  Island,  and  Forts  Barrancas 
and  McRea  on  the  mainland. 

The  city  presents  rather  a  decayed  appearance,  and  bears  many 
marks  of  its  Spanish  origin.  The  houses  are  mostly  old-fashioned 
and  of  wood ;  the  streets  are  generally  unpaved,  and  the  sidewalks 
are  frequently  of  wood.  The  principal  building  is  the  Custom 
House.  There  are  several  churches  and  schools,  and  2  newspaper 
offices  in  the  city.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870 
the  population  was  3347. 

Pensacola  was  permanently  settled  by  the  Spaniards  about  the  year 
1699.  The  French  made  frequent  efforts  to  drive  away  the  Spaniards, 
and  in  1719  captured  the  place,  and  held  it  until  1723,  when  they  re- 
stored it  to  Spain.  In  1763  all  Florida,  including  Pensacola,  passed 
into  the  hands  of  the  British.  Pensacola  was  besieged  and  re-captured 
by  the  Spanish  in  1781.  In  1783  the  whole  province  was  restored 
to  Spain.  In  1814  the  city  was  attacked  and  captured,  with  its  adja- 
cent forts,  by  General  Jackson,  whose  object  was  to  drive  out  the 
British  who  had  been  allowed  by  the  Spaniards  to  establish  them- 
selves there.  In  1818  the  Spaniards  being  either  unable  or  unwilling 
to  put  a  stop  to  the  inroads  of  the  Indians  from  Florida  into  the 


660  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

United  States,  General  Jackson  again  took  possession  of  the  city,  and 
obliged  the  Spanish  Governor,  who  had  taken  refuge  in  Fort  Barran- 
cas, to  surrender  that  work.  In  1821  Pensacola  became  a  city  of  the 
Union  by  the  purchase  of  Florida.  In  January,  1861,  after  the  se- 
cession of  Florida  from  the  Union,  the  State  troops  took  possession  of 
the  navy  yard,  Forts  Barrancas  and  McRea,  and  the  other  Govern- 
ment property.  The  United  States  forces,  under  Lieutenant  Slem- 
mer,  occupied  Fort  Pickens,  on  Santa  Rosa  Island,  and  held  it  until 
reinforced.  The  Southern  forces  at  once  laid  siege  to  Fort  Pickens, 
which  was  also  defended  by  a  naval  force.  The  siege  of  this  fort,  and 
the  blockade  of  Pensacola,  lasted  during  the  greater  portion  of  the 
civil  war. 

ST.    AUGUSTINE 

Is  situated  in  St.  John's  county,  on  the  north  shore  of  Matanzas 
Sound,  2  miles  from  the  Atlantic,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  Anas- 
tasia  Island.  It  is  200  miles  east  by  south  from  Tallahassee.  It 
possesses  but  little  trade,  although  its  harbor  is  safe  and  large.  Large 
ships  cannot  enter  it,  however,  as  there  is  but  9  or  10  feet  of  water  on 
the  bar.  It  is  reached  by  steamer  from  Jacksonville.  It  contains 
the  county  buildings,  several  churches  and  schools,  and  1  newspaper 
office.  In  1870  the  population  was  1717. 

St.  Augustine  is  the  oldest  town  in  the  United  States,  and  one  of 
the  most  interesting.  It  was  settled  by  the  Spaniards  in  1564.  The 
site  was  originally  a  shell  hummock,  scarcely  12  feet  higher  than  the 
surface  of  the  sea.  The  town  formerly  stood  in  a  grove  of  orange 
trees,  but  in  1834  a  great  frost  destroyed  these.  Frost,  however,  is 
very  rare  in  this  part  of  Florida.  Many  winters  pass  without  the 
slightest  mark  of  it,  and  snow  is  almost  unknown. 

"St.  Augustine  is  built  along  the  seaward  side  of  a  narrow  ridge 
of  .land,  situated  between  a  salt  marsh  and  estuary  half  a  mile  from 
the  beach,  two  miles  from  the  ocean,  in  sight  of  the  bar  and  light- 
house, and  in  hearing  of  the  surf.  The  soil  is  sandy  loam  and  decom- 
posed shell,  and  is  very  productive.  Approaching  by  a  bridge  and 
crossing  the  St.  Sebastian  River  and  marsh,  the  stranger  enters  a  well- 
shaded  avenue,  flanked  by  gardens  and  orange-groves,  which  leads 
directly  to  the  centre  of  the  quaint  old  city.  Here  is  the  public 
square,  a  neat  enclosure  of  some  two  acres,  facing  which,  on  either 
side,  stand  the  Court  House,  the  market  and  wharf,  the.  Protestant 
Episcopal  Church — a  plain  building,  in  the  pointed  style,  handsomely 


FLORIDA.  661 

furnished — and,  immediately  opposite,  the  venerable  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  a  striking  edifice  of  seemingly  great  antiquity,  but  built  only 
about  eighty  years  ago.  It  is  of  the  periwig  pattern,  and  in  the  worst 
possible  taste.  One  of  its  bells  bears  date  1682.  Connected  with 
this  church  is  a  small  convent  and  school.  A  minute's  walk  brings 
us  to  the  sea-wall  or  breakwater,  a  broad  line  of  massive  masonry, 
built  about  1840  by  order  of  Government,  at  great  cost,  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  city,  but  \vhose  chief  use  is  that  of  affording  to  the  in- 
habitants the  pleasantest  promenade  in  fine  weather.  This  wall  ex- 
tends half  a  mile  southward  to  the  now  deserted  barracks  and  maga- 
zine, and  as  far  northward  as  Fort  Marion  (formerly  Castle  of  St. 
Mark),  a  picturesque  and  decayed  fortress,  which  once  commanded 
the  whole  harbor,  looming  up  out  of  the  flat  landscape,  grand  as  a 
Moorish  castle,  and  forming  the  most  conspicuous  and  interesting 
relic  of  the  Spanish  occupation.  Parallel  to  this  sea-wall,  run  north 
and  south,  with  short  intersections,  the  three  principal  streets  or  lanes, 
long,  narrow,  without  pavement  or  sidewalk,  irregularly  built  up  with 
1  dumpy  '  but  substantial  houses,  rather  dingy  and  antediluvian,  mostly 
of  stone,  or  with  the  lower  stories  stone  and  the  upper  of  wood. 
They  have  invariably  the  chimneys  outside,  and  are  ornamented  with 
projecting  balconies  and  latticed  verandahs,  from  which  the  gay  paini 
has  long  since  faded,  being  all  toned  and  weather-stained  into  one 
sombre  gray  hue,  which,  in  keeping  with  the  surroundings,  is  the  joint 
result  of  age,  neglect,  sun,  and  saline  air.  Every  house  is  separated 
from  its  neighbor  by  more  or  less  of  garden  plot,  ill  protected  by  broken 
fence  and  crumbling  wall,  wherein  they  raise  two  or  more  crops  of 
vegetables  every  year,  figs  in  perfection,  and  roses  in  unmeasured 
abundance.  St.  Augustine  is  sometimes  styled  the  '  Ancient  City/ 
Its  appearance  is  in  strict  keeping  with  its  venerable  age,  seen  in  the 
unequivocal  marks  of  decay  or  decrepitation.  Perhaps  the  friable  na- 
ture of  the  common  building  material  contributes  to  this  ruinous  ap- 
pearance, all  the  older  houses  being  constructed  of  a  stratified  concrete 
of  minute  shell  and  sand  called  '  coquina/  in  blocks  conveniently  ob- 
tained, and  easily  worked,  hardening  by  exposure,  but  abrading  and 
crumbling  in  course  of  time.  Coquina  houses  are  invariably  dark, 
and  always  damp  in  winter,  on  which  account  frame  dwellings,  though 
not  so  cool,  for  summer  houses,  are  much  preferred  by  the  innovating 
Yankees.  But  the  Minorcan,  or  sub-Spanish  population,  still  adhere 
to  their  traditions,  and  refuse  to  be  reformed.  They  build  for  the 
summer  time — the  longest  season.  Northerners  seeking  in  Florida  a 


662 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


ST.    AUGUSTINE. 

mild  climate  generally  prefer  St.  Augustine ;  and  with  the  best  reason. 
The  proximity  of  the  Gulf  Stream  renders  it  warmer  in  winter  and 
cooler  in  summer  than  the  settlements  on  the  St.  John's  River.  It 
is  at  present  the  most  southern  habitable  place  on  the  eastern  coast ; 
and  it  has  peculiar  advantages  over  all  other  towns  in  East  Florida — 
in  its  churches,  its  company,  and  its  comforts.  Good  society  may  be 
always  had  there;  the  citizens  are  hospitable,  and  among  the  visitors 
are  always  some  agreeable  persons,  cultivated  and  distinguished.  Vi- 
sitors begin  to  arrive  about  the  holidays.  From  the  middle  of  March 
to  the  middle  of  April  is  the  height  of  the  season,  and  then  the  ho- 
tels are  crowded.  Deliciously  fresh  and  mild  is  the  atmosphere  during 
the  first  spring  heats.  Then  the  soft  south  wind  fills  the  senses  with 
a  voluptuous  languor,  and  the  evening  land  breeze  comes  laden  with 
the  fragrance  of  orange-blossoms  and  the  breath  of  roses.  A  moon- 
light walk  upon  the  sea-wall  suggests  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  al- 
lusion is  heightened  by  the  accents  of  a  foreign  tongue.  The  effect 
of  these  happy  climatic  and  social  conditions  is  very  noticeable.  The 
most  morose  tempers  soem  to  lose  their  acerbity,  and  even  the  despair- 
ing invalid  catches  the  contagion  of  cheerfulness.  Two-thirds  of  the 
population  of  St.  Augustine  are  of  Spanish  origin,  and  still  speak  the 
Spanish  language.  The  women  are  pretty,  modest,  dark-eyed  bru- 
nettes;  dress  neatly  in  gay  colors,  are  skilful  at  needle-work,  and 
good  housewives.  The  men  exhibit  equally  characteristic  traits  of 
race  and  nationality.  The  people  are  generally  poor.  There  are  no 


FLORIDA.  663 

manufactures.  The  town  produces  little,  and  exports  nothing — its 
chief  support,  since  the  loss  of  its  orange-groves,  being  derived  from 
Government  offices,  and  receipts  from  strangers.  It  has  one  saw-mill, 
rarely  running." 

KEY  WEST  CITY, 

In  Monroe  county,  in  the  most  populous  town  in  the  State.  It  is 
situated  on  the  island  of  Key  West,  about  60  miles  southwest  of  Cape 
Table,  latitude  24°  33'  N. ;  longitude  81°  40'  W.  It  is  a  well-built 
town,  of  nearly  700  houses.  The  streets  are  50  feet  wide  and  cross 
each  other  at  right-angles.  It  contains  4  churches,  5  schools,  and  a 
fine  Marine  Hospital  belonging  to  the  United  States. 

About  30,000  bushels  of  salt  are  made  annually  at  Key  West  by 
solar  evaporation.  Large  quantities  of  sponges,  turtles,  and  fish  are 
exported  to  the  Atlantic  cities.  The  principal  business  of  the  place, 
however,  is  wrecking.  About  forty-five  or  fifty  vessels  are  annually 
wrecked  in  the  vicinity  of  the  island,  and  the  inhabitants  derive  an 
annual  profit  of  about  $200,000  from  the  salvages  and  other  perqui- 
sites of  these  vessels.  This  business  is  conducted  under  equitable  and 
strict  laws,  and  is  of  benefit  to  ship-owners  as  well  as  to  the  islanders. 

Key  West  was  first  settled  in  1822.  It  is  one  of  the  most  import- 
ant military  stations  of  the  United  States,  as  it  is  the  key  to  the 
Florida  Pass  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  harbor  is  large  and  safe, 
and  will  admit  vessels  drawing  22  feet  of  water.  Its  entrance  is  de- 
fended by  Fort  Taylor,  a  powerful  work.  The  steamers  from  Charles- 
ton and  New  York  touch  at  this  port  once  a  week,  and  furnish  the 
only  regular  communication  with  the  mainland.  In  1870  the  popu- 
lation was  5000. 


ALABAMA. 

Area, .    .    .  50,722  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 946,244 

(Whites,  526,431 ;  Negroes,  419,813) 

Population  in  1870, 996,992 

THE  State  of  Alabama  is  situated  between  30°  10'  and  35°  N. 
latitude,  and  between  85°  and  88°  30'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Tennessee,  on  the  east  by  Georgia,  on  the  south  by 
Florida  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  west  by  Mississippi. 

TOPOGEAPHY. 

The  northeast  part  of  this  State  is  occupied  by  the  southwest  end 
of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  which  terminate  here.  They  gradually 
sink  down*into  a  fine  rolling  country,  which  covers  the  whole  surface 
of  the  State  to  within  sixty  miles  of  the  Gulf,  where  it  becomes  level. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Alabama,  Tennessee,  Tombigbee,  Black 
Warrior,  and  Coosa.  The  Perclido  separates  the  State  from  Florida 
in  the  southeast,  and  the  Choctawhatchie,  Pea,  Yellow,  Connecuh, 
and  Escambia  rivers  rise  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  and  flow 
south  into  Florida. 

The  Alabama  River,  the  most  important  stream  in  the  State,  is 
formed  by  the  Coosa  and  Tallapoosa,  which  unite  about  10  miles 
above  Montgomery.  It  flows  in  a  generally  southwest  direction,  and 
empties  through  Mobile  Bay  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  About  45 
miles  above  Mobile,  it  is  joined  by  the  Tombigbee.  Below  this,  it 
is  called  the  Mobile  River.  It  is  navigable  at  all  seasons  for  first- 
class  steamers.  The  Tallapoosa  is  navigable  for  a  short  distance,  and 
the  Coosa  for  about  160  miles.  The  length  of  the  main  stream  is 
664 


ALABAMA.  665 

about  300  miles.  Its  tributaries  are  the  Cahawba  anJ.  Tombigbee, 
besides  several  small  streams. 

Mr.  Russell,  the  correspondent  of  the  London  Times,  draws  the 
following  picture  of  this  celebrated  river  in  its  prosperous  times : 

"  The  vessel  was  nothing  more  than  a  vast  wooden  house,  of  three 
separate  stories,  floating  on  a  pontoon  which  upheld  the  engine,  with 
a  dining-hall  or  saloon  on  the  second  story  surrounded  by  sleeping- 
berths,  and  a  nest  of  smaller  rooms  up-stairs ;  on  the  metal  roof  was 
a  ( musical '  instrument  called  a  l  calliope/  played  like  a  piano  by  keys, 
which  acted  on  levers  and  valves,  admitting  steam  into  metal  cups, 
where  it  produced  the  requisite  notes — high,  resonant,  and  not  un- 
pleasing  at  a  moderate  distance.  It  is  417  miles  to  Mobile,  but  at 
this  season  the  steamer  can  maintain  a  good  rate  of  speed,  as  there  is 
very  little  cotton  or  cargo  to  be  taken  on  board  at  the  landings,  and 
the  stream  is  full. 

"  The  river  is  about  200  yards  broad,  and  of  the  color  of  chocolate 
and  milk,  with  high,  steep,  wooded  banks,  rising  so  much  above  the 
surface  of  the  stream,  that  a  person  on  the  upper  deck  of  the  towering 
Southern  Republic,  cannot  get  a  glimpse  of  the  fields  and  country 
beyond.  High  banks  and  bluffs  spring  up  to  the  height  of  150  or 
even  200  feet  above  the  river,  the  breadth  of  which  is  so  uniform  as 
to  give  the  Alabama  the  appearance-of  a  canal,  only  relieved  by  sud- 
den bends  and  rapid  curves.  The  surface  is  covered  with  masses  of 
drift  wood,  whole  trees,  and  small  islands  of  branches.  Now  and 
then  a  sharp,  black,  fang-like  projection  standing  stiffly  in  the  current 
gives  warning  of  a  snag,  but  the  helmsman,  who  commands  the  whole 
course  of  the  river,  from  an  elevated  house  amidships  on  the  upper 
deck,  can  see  these  in  time;  and  at  night  pine  boughs  are  lighted  in 
iron  cressets  at  the  bows  to  illuminate  the  water. 

"  The  captain,  who  was  not  particular  whether  his  name  was  spelt 
Maher,  or  Mealier,  or  Meagher  (les  trois  se  disent),  was  evidently  a 
character — perhaps  a  good  one.  One  with  a  grey  eye  full  of  cunning 
and  of  some  humor,  strongly-marked  features,  and  a  very  Celtic 
mouth  of  the  Kerry  type.  He  soon  attached  himself  to  me,  and 
favored  me  with  some  wonderful  yarns,  which  I  hope  he  was  not 
foolish  enough  to  think  I  believed.  One  relating  to  a  wholesale 
destruction  and  massacre  of  Indians  he  narrated  with  evident  gusto. 
Pointing  to  one  of  the  bluffs,  he  said  that  some  thirty  years  ago  the 
whole  of  the  Indians  in  the  district  being  surrounded  by  the  whites, 
betook  themselves  to  that  spot,  and  remained  there  without  any 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


A  BLUFF   ON  THE  ALABAMA  RIVER. 

means  of  escape,  till  they  were  quite  starved  out.  So  they  sent  down 
to  know  if  the  whites  would  let  them  go,  and  it  was  agreed  that  they 
should  be  permitted  to  move  down  the  river  in  boats.  When  the  day 
came,  and  they  were  all  afloat,  the  whites  anticipated  the  boat-mas- 
sacre of  Nana  Sahib  at  Cawnpore,  and  destroyed  the  helpless  red-skins. 
Many  hundreds  thus  perished,  and  the  whole  affair  was  very  much 
approved  of. 

"The  value  of  land  on  the  sides  of  this  river  is  great,  as  it  yields 
nine  to  eleven  bales  of  cotton  to  the  acre — worth  10£.  a  bale  at  present 
prices.  The  only  evidences  of  this  wealth  to  be  seen  by  us  consisted 
of  the  cotton  sheds  on  the  top  of  the  banks,  and  slides  of  timber,  with 
steps  at  eat'-h  side  down  to  the  landings,  so  constructed  that  the  cotton 
bales  could  be  shot  down  on  board  the  vessel.  These  shoots  and  stair- 
cases are  generally  protected  by  a  roof  of  planks,  and  lead  to  unknown 
regions  inhabited  by  niggers  and  their  masters,  the  latter  all  talking 
politics.  And  so  they  talk  through  the  glimmering  of  bad  cigars  for 
hours. 

"  The  management  of  the  boat  is  dexterous, — as  she  approaches  the 
landing-place,  the  helm  is  put  hard  over,  to  the  screaming  of  the 
steam-pipe,  and  the  wild  strains  of  '  Dixie'  floating  out  of  the  throats 
of  the  calliope,  and  as  the  engines  are  detached,  one  wheel  is  worked 
forward,  and  the  other  backs  water,  so  she  soon  turns  head  up  stream, 
and  is  then  gently  paddled  up  to  the  river  bank,  to  which  she  is  just 
kept  up  by  steam — the  plank  is  run  ashore,  and  the  few  passengers 
who  are  coming  in  or  out  are  lighted  on  their  way  by  the  flames  of 
pine  in  an  iron  basket,  swinging  above  the  bow  by  a  long  pole.  Then 


ALABAMA.  667 

we  see  them  vanishing  into  black  darkness  up  the  steps,  or  coming 
down  clearer  and  clearer  till  they  stand  in  the  full  blaze  of  the  beacon, 
which  casts  dark  shadows  on  the  yellow  water.  The  air  is  glistening 
with  fire-flies,  which  dot  the  darkness  with  specks  and  points  of  flame, 
just  as  sparks  fly  through  the  embers  of  tinder  or  half-burned  paper. 
"  Some  of  the  landings  were  by  far  more  important  than  others. 
There  were  some,  for  example,  where  an  iron  railroad  was  worked 
down  the  bank  by  windlasses  for  hoisting  up  goods;  others  where  the 
negroes,  half-naked,  leaped  ashore,  and  rushing  at  piles  of  fire-wood, 
tossed  them  on  board  to  feed  the  engine,  which,  all  uncovered  and 
open  to  the  lower  deck,  lighted  up  the  darkness  by  the  glare  from  the 
stoke-holes,  which  cried  forever  '  Give,  give !'  as  the  negroes  cease- 
lessly thrust  the  pine-beams  into  their  hungry  maws.  I  could  under- 
stand how  easily  a  steamer  can  '  burn  up/  and  how  hopeless  escape 
would  be  under  such  circumstances.  The  whole  framework  of  the 
vessel  is  of  the  lightest  resinous  pine,  so  raw  that  the  turpentine  oozes 
out  through  the  paint ;  the  hull  is  a  mere  shell.  If  the  vessel  once 
caught  fire,  all  that  could  be  done  would  be  to  turn  her  round,  and 
run  her  to  the  bank,  in  the  hope  of  holding  there  long  enough  to 
enable  the  people  to  escape  into  the  trees ;  but  if  she  were  not  near  a 
landing,  many  must  be  lost;  as  the  bank  is  steep  down,  the  vessel 
cannot  be  run  aground ;  and  in  some  places  the  trees  are  in  eight  or 
ten  feet  of  water.  A  few  minutes  would  suffice  to  set  the  vessel  in  a 
blaze  from  stem  to  stern ;  and  if  there  were  cotton  on  board,  the 
bales  would  burn  almost  like  powder.  The  scene  at  each  landing 
was  repeated,  with  few  variations,  ten  times  till  we  reached  Selma, 
110  miles  distance,  at  11.30  at  night. 

"Selma,  which  is  connected  with  the  Tennessee  and  Mississippi 
rivers  by  railroad,  is  built  upon  a  steep,  lofty  bluff,  and  the  lights  in 
the  windows,  and  the  lofty  hotels  above  us,  put  me  in  mind  of  the  old 
town  of  Edinburgh,  seen  from  Princes  Street.  Beside  us  there  was  a 
huge  storied  wharf,  so  that  our  passengers  could  step  on  shore  from 
any  deck  they  pleased. 

"The  cabin  of  one  of  these  steamers,  in  the  month  of  May,  is  not 
favorable  to  sleep.  The  wooden  beams  of  the  engines  creak  and  scream 
'consumedly/  and  the  great  engines  themselves  throb  as  if  they  would 
break  through  their  thin,  pulse  covers  of  pine, — and  the  whistle  sounds, 
and  the  calliope  shrieks  cut  ' Dixie'  incessantly.  So,  when  I  was  up 
and  dressed,  breakfast  was  over,  and  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  slaves  ou  board,  male  and  female,  acting  as  stewards  and  stew- 


668  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC, 

ardesses,  at  their  morning  meal,  which  they  took  with  much  good 
spirits  and  decorum.  They  were  nicely  dressed — clean  and  neat.  I 
was  forced  to  admit  to  myself  that  their  Ashantee  grandsires  and 
grandmothers,  or  their  Kroo  and  Dahomey  progenitors,  were  certainly 
less  comfortable  and  well  clad,  and  that  these  slaves  had  other  social 
advantages,  though  I  could  not  recognize  the  force  of  the  Bishop  of 
Georgia's  assertion,  that  from  slavery  must  come  the  sole  hope  of,  and 
machinery  for,  the  evangelization  of  Africa.  I  confess  I.  would  not 
give  much  for  the  influence  of  the  stewards  and  stewardesses  in 
Christianizing  the  blacks. 

"  The  river,  the  scenery,  and  the  scenes  were  just  the  same  as  yes- 
terday's— high  banks,  cotton  slides,  wooding-stations,  cane-brakes — 
and  a  very  miserable  negro  population,  if  the  specimens  of  women  and 
children  at  the  landings  fairly  represented  the  mass  of  the  slaves. 
They  were  in  strong  contrast  to  the  comfortable,  well-dressed  domestic 
slaves  on  board,  and  it  can  well  be  imagined  there  is  a  wide  difference 
between  the  classes,  and  that  those  condemned  to  work  in  the  open 
fields  must  suffer  exceedingly." 

The  Tombigbee  River,  or,  as  it  is  familiarly  called  by  the  natives,  the 
Bigbee,  rises  in  Tishomingo  county,  in  the  extreme  northeast  of  the 
State  of  Mississippi,  and  flows  southward  to  Columbus,  in  that  State, 
where  it  turns  to  the  east,  enters  the  State  of  Alabama,  and  flows 
southeast  to  Demopolis,  where  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Black 
Warrior,  after  which  it  flows  south  into  the  Alabama  River,  45  miles 
north  of  Mobile.  It  is  450  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for  steamers 
to  Columbus,  Miss.,  366  miles  from  Mobile.  Flat-bottomed  steam- 
boats can  ascend  to  Aberdeen,  40  or  50  miles  above  Columbus.  The 
Tombigbee  flows  through  a  fine,  fertile  country,  and  its  banks  are 
lined  with  cotton  plantations.  Its  principal  branch,  the  Black 
Warrior,  extends  into  the  northeast  part  of  the  State,  and  is  navigable 
for  150  miles,  to  Tuscaloosa,  305  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  flows 
through  a  country  rich  in  mineral  resources.  The  Tennessee  River 
has  130  miles  of  its  course  in  Alabama,  flowing  westward  across  the 
northern  part  of  the  State.  It  will  be  described  in  another  chapter. 

Mobile  Bay  divides  the  extreme  southwest  part  of  the  State  in  half. 
It  extends  southward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mobile  River  to  the 
Gulf,  with  which  it  communicates  by  two  channels  separated  by 
Dauphin  Island.  It  is  35  miles  long,  and  from  3  to  15  miles  wide. 
It  was  the  scene  of  a  desperate  naval  battle  between  the  Federal  and 
Confederate  fleets,  in  which  the  latter  was  destroyed  by  Admiral 


ALABAMA. 

Farragut.  It  communicates  with  Mississippi  Sound  on  the  west,  and, 
in  connection  with  that  body  of  water,  which  is  protected  from  the 
waves  of  the  Gulf  by  a  chain  of  low,  sandy  islands,  furnishes  an 
inner  and  safe  water  route  from  Mobile  to  Lake  Pontchartrain  and 
New  Orleans. 

SOIL,    CLIMATE,    MINERALS,    PRODUCTS,    AND 
MANUFACTURES. 

"  The  soil  varies  with  the  geographical  locality  and  elevation.  The 
mountain  region  of  the  north  is  well  suited  to  grazing  and  stock- 
raising,  and  is  interspersed  with  valleys  of  excellent  soil.  The 
undulating  surface  of  the  central  portion  is  well  watered,  and, 
especially  in  the  river  bottoms,  highly  charged  with  fertilizing 
elements.  The  valley  of  the  Alabama  is  one  of  the  richest  on  the 
continent.  The  removal  of  the  canebrakes  of  Marengo  and  Greene 
counties,  has  disclosed  soil  of  surpassing  quality.  Toward  the  coast  the 
vegetation  becomes  decidedly  tropical.  Cotton  is  the  great  staple,  but 
sugar-cane  is  cultivated  on  the  neck  between  Mississippi  and  Florida, 
and  indigo  has  been  produced  in  considerable  quantities.  Oaks  in 
great  variety,  poplars,  hickories,  chestnuts,  and  mulberries,  cover  the 
northern  and  central  parts,  while  in  the  south  the  pine,  cypress,  and 
loblolly  are  the  prevailing  species. 

"  The  climate  varies  with  the  latitude,  approaching  within  seven 
degrees  of  the  tropics.  The  southern  coast  is  strongly  assimilated  to 
the  torrid  zone  in  its  temperature.  The  nights,  however,  are  alleviated, 
even  in  the  hottest  weather,  by  the  Gulf  breezes.  During  the  coldest 
seasons  the  rivers,  even  in  the  north,  are  seldom  frozen,  and  the 
general  winter  temperature  of  the  State  is  very  mild.  The  low  lands 
near  the  rivers  are  malarious,  but  the  State  generally  is  remarkable 
for  salubrity. 

"The  agricultural  statistics  of  1860  disclose  an  advance,  in  ten 
years,  of  fifty  per  cent,  in  the  amount  of  land  brought  under  cultiva- 
tion, and  of  nearly  two  hundred  per  cent,  in  the  value  of  farms  and 
farm  implements. 

"  Live  stock  presents  some  enlargement  of  aggregate  numbers,  and 
more  than  doubles  in  value.  Animal  products,  such  as  butter,  cheese, 
wool,  honey,  and  slaughtered  animals,  have  increased  fifty  per  cent. 
Cereals,  tobacco,  cotton,  potatoes,  and  hay  show  like  increment. 
Market  garden  products  nearly  double  in  value,  while  orchard  pro- 
ducts increase  nearly  fifteen  fold.  Like  the  neighboring  Gulf  States, 


670  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

an  injudicious  cultivation  of  cotton,  tobacco,  and  other  heavy  staples, 
has  somewhat  exhausted  the  fertility  of  portions  of  the  land.  Tillage 
and  rotation  of  crops  will  remedy  the  mischief  and  restore  the  elements 
of  productiveness.  The  agricultural  development  of  Alabama  awaits 
the  final  adjustment  of  the  system  of  labor,  the  State  possessing  ele- 
ments promising  a  bright  future. 

"The  mineral  resources  of  Alabama  are  sufficiently  known  to 
indicate  their  abundance  and  variety.  The  central  region  is  under- 
laid by  vast  beds  of  iron  ore,  alternating  with  thick  coal  measures 
of  great  extent.  The  juxtaposition  of  these  minerals  favors  mining 
operations  and  the  processes  of  preparing  iron  for  market.  Lead, 
manganese,  ochres,  and  marbles,  are  found  in  different  localities,  and 
even  gold  is  reported.  Sulphur  and  chalybeate  springs  are  of  frequent 
occurrence. 

"The  returns  of  1860  show  1459  manufacturing  establishments, 
with  capital  of  $9,098,181,  producing  articles  valued  at  $10,588,571, 
at  an  outlay  for  labor  and  raw  material  of  $7,622,903 ;  the  margin 
of  profits  was  $2,965,668,  or  nearly  30  per  cent,  on  the  capital 
invested.  A  new  era  in  manufacturing  enterprise  may  be  expected  in 
the  reorganization  of  labor  now  in  progress  in  this  and  other  States, 
in  which  this  great  industrial  interest  will  find  its  true  position  and 
influence  in  the  social  system."  * 

In  1  S69  there  were  6,385,724  <ieres  of  improved  land  in  Alabama. 
In  the  same  year  the  agriculture/  statistics  were  as  follows : 

Bales  of  cotton 510,000 

Pounds  of  rice  (estinia^ed),    ...'....  300,000 

Bushels  of  wheat, 930,000 

44           Indian  corn, 30,200,000 

u           peas  and  beans, .  65,780 

44           sweet  potatoes  (estimated),    .    .    .  5,000,000 

44           oats, 567,000 

Tons  of  hay. 68,000 

Pounds  af  butter 6,028,478 

Nataber  of  horses, 165,063 

**           mules  and  asses, 140,687 

milch  cows, 270,537 

sheep, 680,960 

44            swine, 2,500,000 

44            young  cattle, 600,347 

Value  of  domestic  animals,    .......  $49,111,911 


*  Report  of  the  General  Land  Office. 


ALABAMA.  671 

COMMERCE. 

Alabama,  having  1500  miles  of  river  navigation,  and  one  of  the 
best  harbors  on  the  Gulf  (Mobile),  possesses  considerable  commerce. 
The  export  of  cotton  and  lumber  is  very  large.  In  1860  the  total 
value  of  the  exports  of  the  State  was  $38,670,183  (making  Alabama 
the  third  State  in  the  Union  as  regards  the  value  of  its  exports  that 
year),  and  that  of  the  imports,  $1,050,310. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872  there  were  1671  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Alabama, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  §40,000,000.  The  capital  and  the  prin- 
cipal towns  are  connected  with  each  other,  and  with  all  parts  of  the 
Unioq.  The  great  railroad  route  between  Memphis  and  the  Eastern 
States  extends  across  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  and  there  is  a 
main  route  direct  from  Mobile  to  the  Ohio  River.  The  roads  of  the 
State  were  almost  destroyed  during  the  war,  but  are  slowly  regaining 
their  former  prosperity. 

EDUCATION. 

Alabama  was  one  of  the  most  enterprising  States  in  the  South  in 
the  cause  of  education  previous  to  the  war.  In  1870  the  State  con- 
tained 9  colleges,  with  about  1000  students;  2812  public  schools,  with 
about  62,000  pupils;  and  148  academies  and  other  schools,  with  about 
10,000  pupils. 

The  University  of  Alabama  is  located  near  Tuscaloosa.  It  was  a 
flourishing  institution  previous  to  the  war,  and  held  a  high  rank 
amongst  the  colleges  of  the  country.  Its  buildings  were  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1865.  Measures  were  at  once  taken  to  restore  them  upon  a 
larger  and  more  perfect  plan. 

The  schools  of  the  State  were  generally  closed  by  the  war,  many 
of  them  having  been  destroyed  during  the  struggle.  The  new  Con- 
stitution places  the  educational  system  of  the  State  in  the  hands  of  a 
State  Board  of  Education,  consisting  of  the  State  Superintendent  of 
Public  Instruction,  the  Governor  of  the  State,  who  is  a  member  ex 
officio,  and  two  members  from  each  Congressional  District.  They 
also  constitute  a  Board  of  Regents  of  the  State  University.  The 
Board  meets  annually  at  Montgomery,  at  the  opening  of  the  session 
of  the  Legislature,  and  sits  for  the  transaction  of  business  for  a  period 
not  to  exceed  20  days.  The  Board  is  required  to  establish  one  or 


672  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

more  free  public  schools  in  each  school  district.  A  permanent  school 
fund  is  established,  and  the  Legislature  is  required  to  levy  taxes  for 
the  support  of  the  public  schools. 

In  1860  the  State  contained  395  libraries,  with  13,050  volumes. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Wetumpka,  and  contains  about 
200  prisoners,  three-fourths  of  whom  are  negroes.  The  penitentiary 
is  let  out  to  contractors,  and  is  self-supporting.  The  convicts  are  put 
to  work,  outside  the  prison,  on  railroads,  and  in  the  iron  and  coal 
mines,  a  guard  being  kept  over  them. 

The  Insane  Hospital  is  at  Tuscaloosa.  It  was  established  in  1852, 
and  opened  for  the  reception  of  patients  in  July,  1861.  It  is  an  ex- 
cellent institution,  is  well  managed,  and  is  prosperous.  In  1866 
there  were  151  patients  under  treatment  here.  Those  who  are  able  to 
pay  their  expenses  are  charged  a  moderate  sum.  The  institution  will 
accommodate  350  patients. 

The  Institution  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind  is  at  Talladega.  It 
contains  40  pupils,  who  are  being  instructed  in  the  various  branches 
of  a  good  education. 

RELIGIOUS  DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1860  there  were  1875  churches  in  the  State,  but  many  of  these 
were  destroyed  during  the  war. 

FINANCES. 

The  total  bonded  debt  of  the  State  in  July,  1868,  was  $5,382,800. 
The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  September 
30th,  1868,  were  $1,577,144,  and  the  expenditures  $1,461,429. 

There  were  2  National  Banks  in  the  State,  with  a  capital  of  $500,- 
000,  in  1868. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  the  State  was  adopted  by  the  people  in 
February,.  1868.  Every  male  citizen,  21  years  old,  who  has  resided 
in  the  State  six  months,  and  has  taken  the  oath  to  support  the  Con- 
stitution and  laws  of  the  United  States,  and  of  Alabama,  are  entitled 
to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 


ALABAMA.  673 

Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer  and  Receiver-General,  Auditor  and  At- 
torney General,  and  a  General  Assembly,  consisting  of  a  Senate  and1 
House  of  Representatives.  The  Executive  officers *are  elected  by  the 
people,  and  all  except  the  Auditor,  who  is  chosen  for  four  years,  hold 
office  for  two  years. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  Circuit  Courts, 
Chancery  Courts,  Courts  of  Probate,  and  such  inferior  courts  as  the 
General  Assembly  may  see  fit  to  establish.  The  Supreme  Court  con- 
sists of  three  judges,  and  has  appellate  jurisdiction  only.  All  the 
judges  in  this  State  are  chosen  by  the  people. 

For  purposes  of  government  the  State  is  divided  into  52  counties. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  at  Montgomery. 

HISTORY. 

The  word  ALABAMA  is  an  Indian  expression,  signifying,  "  Here  we 
rest."  The  first  white  man  who  entered  the  State  was  Fernando  de 
Soto,  who  traversed  it  in  1540,  defeating  the  Indians  who  sought  to 
oppose  his  progress  in  several  severe  battles.  He  found  the  savages 
less  barbarous  and  more  civilized  in  this  part  of  the  country  than  in 
the  other  sections  visited  by  him.  He  crossed  the  State  from  the 
northeastern  part  to  Maubila,  said  to  have  occupied  the  present  site 
of  Choctaw  Bluff,  just  above  the  confluence  of  the  Tombigbee  and 
Alabama  rivers.  "  This  place  consisted  of  eighty  handsome  houses, 
each  sufficiently  capacious  to  contain  a  thousand  men.  They  were 
encompassed  by  a  high  wall,  made  of  immense  trunks  of  trees,  set 
deep  in  the  ground  and  close  together,  strengthened  with  cross-tim- 
bers and  interwoven  with  large  vines."  After  De  Soto's  arrival  in 
the  town,  he  and  his  followers  were  treacherously  attacked  by  the  In- 
dians to  the  number  of  ten  thousand.  A  battle  ensued,  which  lasted 
nine  hours,  and  resulted  in  the  destruction  of  six  thousand  Indians 
and  the  town  of  Maubila.  The  Spaniards  suffered  terribly,  and  lost 
eighty  men,  forty-five  horses,  and  all  their  baggage  and  camp  equi- 
page. After  this  De  Soto  proceeded  northward  to  the  Mississippi 
River. 

In  1702,  Bienville,  the  French  Governor  of  Louisiana,  entered 
Mobile  Bay,  and  built  a  fort  and  trading-post  at  the  mouth  of  Dog 
River.  He  called  the  post  Fort  St.  Louis  de  la  Mobile.  This  was 
for  nine  years  the  seat  of  government,  but  in  1711,  the  French 
ascended  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  founded  the  present  city  of 
Mobile.  Bienville  made  treaties  of  friendship  and  alliance  with  the 
43 


6U  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

neighboring  Indian  tribes,  and  for  awhile  the  colony  prospered,  but 
finally  the  colonists  became  so  much  harassed  by  the  English,  who 
incited  the  Indians  against  them,  that  they  abandoned  Mobile.  Negro 
slaves  were  first  brought  into  the  colony  by  three  French  ships  of  war, 
in  1721. 

The  treaty  of  1783  surrendered  the  French  possessions  in  Alabama 
to  Great  Britain. 

"  George  Johnson,  the  first  British  Governor,  organized  a  military 
government,  garrisoned  the  fort  at  Mobile,  and  that  of  Toulouse,  up 
the  Coosa.  The  first  English  inhabitants  of  Mobile  died  in  great 
numbers,  from  habits  of  intemperance,  exposure,  and  contagious  dis- 
orders, introduced  by  the  military.  The  exports  of  Mobile,  in  1772, 
were  indigo,  raw  hides,  corn,  cattle,  tallow,  rice,  pitch,  bear's  oil,  lum- 
ber, fish,  etc.  Cotton  was  cultivated  in  small  quantities.  The  charter 
granted  to  Georgia  comprised  within  its  limits  all  the  territory  west- 
ward to  the  Mississippi.  That  State,  considering  its  title  to  these 
lands  as  perfect,  made  grants  to  various  companies,  for  the  purpose  of 
settlement.  Two  sets  of  these,  known  as  the  l  Yazoo  Grants,'  have 
acquired  a  celebrity  in  history.  By  the  first,  five  millions  of  acres  in 
Mississippi  were  granted  to  the  South  Carolina  Yazoo  Company ; 
seven  millions  to  the  Virginia  Yazoo  Company;  and  3,500,000 
acres  in  Alabama  to  the  Tennessee  Company.  The  United  States 
authorities  opposed  these  grants,  and  the  several  companies  having 
failed  to  pay  the  purchase  money,  Georgia  rescinded  her  patents. 
Several  years  afterwards,  Georgia  made  other  and  more  considerable 
grants.  These  sales  raised  a  storm  throughout  the  country  ;  they  were 
denounced  by  General  Washington,  in  his  message  to  Congress,  and, 
eventually,  they  were  declared  null  and  void. 

"Alabama,  at  this  period,  was  almost  entirely  in  the  occupation  of 
the  natives.  There  was  a  garrison  of  Spanish  troops  at  Mobile,  and 
also  at  St.  Stephens,  on  the  Tombigbee,  with  trading-posts  upon  the 
Oconee,  and  on  other  points  in  the  south  and  west.  The  whole  country 
west  of  the  present  limits  of  Georgia,  to  the  Mississippi,  was  now  pur- 
chased by  the  United  States,  and,  in  1817,  was  erected  into  the  '  Mis- 
sissippi Territory .'  Fort  Stoddard  was  built  near  the  confluence  of 
the  Alabama  and  Tombigbee,  and  the  county  of  Washington  laid  out, 
embracing  a  space  out  of  which  20  counties  in  Alabama  and  12  in 
Mississippi  have  since  been  made. 

"  At  the  period  of  the  second  war  with  Great  Britain,  Alabama  was 
a  theatre  of  Indian  warfare,  as  a  great  part  of  the  State  was  then 


ALABAMA.  675 

inhabited  by  a  number  of  tribes  of  Indians,  of  whom  the  Creeks  were 
the  principal.  In  1812,  the  Creeks  having  been  stirred  up  to  war  by 
Tecumseh,  the  celebrated  Shawnee  warrior,  commenced  hostile  opera- 
tions. In  August,  they  fell  on  Fort  Mimms;  the  garrison  made  a 
desperate  resistance,  but  out  of  three  hundred  men,  women,  and 
children,  only  seventeen  survived  the  massacre.  The  adjoining  States 
were  now  roused  to  action.  In  November,  General  Jackson,  assisted 
by  Generals  Coffee,  Floyd,  and  Claiborne,  entered  the  Indian  country, 
and  defeated  the  Indians  at  Talladega,  where  290  of  their  warriors 
were  slain.  In  November,  General  Floyd  attacked  the  Creeks  on 
their  sacred  ground,  at  Autossee.  Four  hundred  of  their  houses  were 
burned,  and  200  of  their  bravest  men  were  killed,  among  whom  were 
the  kings  of  Autossee  and  Tallahassee. 

"  The  last  stand  of  the  Creeks  was  at  Tohopeka,  a  place  called  the 
'  Horse-Shoe  Bend.'  Here  the  Indians  fought  desperately,  but  were 
entirely  defeated  with  the  loss  of  nearly  600  men.  The  victory 
ended  in  the  submission  of  the  remaining  warriors,  and  in  1814,  a 
treaty  of  peace  was  concluded,  and  the  Creeks  have  now  reuioved 
westward  of  the  Mississippi.  In  1816,  a  cession  was  obtained  from 
the  Indians  of  all  the  territory  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Coosa 
westward  to  Cotton  Gin  Point,  and  to  a  point  running  thence  to 
Caney  Creek  on  the  Tennessee.  The  territorial  government  being 
established,  the  seat  of  government  was  located  at  St.  Stephens. 
William  W.  Bibb  was  appointed  Governor,  and  the  first  legislature 
was  convened  in  1818. 

"  The  floodgates  of  Virginia,  the  two  Carolinas,  Tennessee,  Ken- 
tucky, and  Georgia  were  now  hoisted,  and  the  mighty  streams  of 
emigration  poured  through  them,  spreading  over  the  whole  territory 
of  Alabama.  In  1819,  Alabama  -was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a 
sovereign  State.  The  General  Assembly  convened  at  Huntsville,  and 
W.  W.  Bibb  was  inaugurated  Governor."  * 

The  State  grew  rapidly  in  wealth  and  population.  In  1860,  it  was 
the  fourth  State  of  the  South  in  importance,  and  the  second  in  the 
amount  of  cotton  produced.  Slavery  was  the  basis  of  its  agriculture. 

On  the  llth  of  January,  1861,  the  State  seceded  from  the  Union, 
and  joined  the  Southern  Confederacy.  In  the  spring  of  1862,  after 
the  fall  of  Fort  Donnelson  and  Memphis,  the  northern  part  of  the 
State  became  the  scene  of  constant  military  operations,  and  continued 

*  Barber's  History  of  all  the  Western  States,  p.  573. 


676  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

to  be  torn  by  the  two  armies  till  near  the  close  of  the  war.  The 
losses  in  the  upper  counties  were  immense,  and  the  central  counties 
were  frequently  desolated  by  raiding  parties.  The  forts  (Gaines  and 
Morgan)  defending  the  entrance  to  Mobile  Bay  were  besieged  and 
taken  by  the  United  States  forces  in  1865,  and  in  the  same  year  the 
victory  of  Mobile  Bay,  the  severest  naval  battle  of  the  war,  was  won 
by  the  National  forces  under  Admiral  Farragut. 

The  Southern  Congress  first  met  at  Montgomery,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  and  there  organized  the  new  Confederacy.  Montgomery  was 
the  capital  of  the  Confederacy  until  its  transfer  to  Richmond  in  May, 
1861. 

After  the  close  of  the  war  a  Provisional  Government  was  established 
in  Alabama,  by  the  President  of  the  United  States.  It  was  over- 
turned by  Congress,  and  in  1867  was  included  in  the  Third  Military 
District.  In  November,  1867,  a  Convention  met  at  Montgomery, 
and  framed  a  State  Constitution,  which  wa.s  ratified  by  the  people  on 
the  4th  of  February,  1868,  and  on  the  25th  of  June,  1868,  Congress 
readmitted  the  State  into  the  Union. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  the  State  are, 
Mobile,  Tuscaloosa,  Huntsville,  Selma,  Kingston,  Tuscumbia, 
Decatur,  Cahawba,  and  Marion 

MONTGOMERY, 

The  capital  and  second  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Montgomery 
county,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Alabama  River.  Latitude  32°  21'  N., 
longitude  86°  25'  W.  It  is  197  miles  (by  road)  northeast  of  Mobile, 
or  331  miles  by  water,  and  839  miles  southwest  of  Washington. 
The  city  is  located  on  rising  ground,  which  increases  in  elevation  as 
it  recedes  from  the  river.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  is  well  built,  and 
contains  a  number  of  handsome  buildings. 

The  State  House  is  the  principal  building.  It  stands  on  Capitol 
Hill,  at  the  head  of  Market  street,  and  though  small  in  size,  is  an 
imposing  structure.  It  was  in  this  building  that  the  Provisional 
Government  of  the  Southern  Confederacy  was  organized.  The  other 
prominent  buildings  are  the  churches,  the  Court  House,  the  Theatre, 
and  the  Exchange  Hotel.  The  schools  of  the  city  are  numerous.  The 
city  contains  many  handsome  private  residences.  It  is  lighted  with 


ALABAMA. 


677 


CAPITOL   AT    MONTGOMERY. 

gas,  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  artesian  wells  in  the  centre 
of  the  city. 

Montgomery  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  It  has  direct  com- 
munication by  railway  with  all  parts  of  the  State  and  Union,  and  has 
water  transportation  along  the  navigable  portion  of  the  Alabama  and 
its  tributaries.  The  Alabama  is  never  closed  by  ice,  and  very  rarely 
suffers  from  drought.  Large  steamers  ply  between  Montgomery  and 
Mobile  during  the  entire  year.  Large  steamers  also  ascend  the  Coosa 
River,  as  far  as  Wetumpka.  About  75,000  bales  of  cotton  are  an- 
nually shipped  from  Montgomery. 

Several  newspapers  are  published  in  Montgomery.  The  city  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population  was 
10,588. 

Montgomery  was  settled  about  the  year  1792.  It  was  a  place  of 
considerable  importance  during  Jackson's  operations  against  the  Creek 
Indians,  in  1813-14.  In  1847  it  became  the  capital  of  the  State. 
The  Provisional  Congress  of  the  Confederate  States  met  at  Mont- 
gomery in  February,  1861,  and  there,  in  the  same  month,  Jefferson 
Davis  was  inaugurated  "  President  of  the  Confederate  States."  The 
city  continued  to  be  the  capital  of  the  Confederacy  until  May,  1861. 
In  April,  1865,  the  Confederates,  upon  evacuating  the  place,  set  fire 
to  the  cotton  warehouses,  and  burned  them  together  with  80,000  bales 
of  cotton.  A  week  later  the  arsenal,  railway  depots,  and  foundry 
were  destroyed  by  the  United  States  troops. 


678  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

MOBILE, 

The  largest  city  of  Alabama,  and  the  metropolis  of  the  the  State,  is 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mobile  River,  just  above  its  entrance 
into  Mobile  Bay.  It  is  197  miles  southwest  of  Montgomery,  30  miles 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  165  miles  east  by  north  from  New  Orleans, 
and  1033  miles  southwest  of  Washington. 

The  city  is  built  upon  a  level  plain,  about  15  feet  above  high  water 
in  the  bay,  and  is  laid  off  with  tolerable  regularity.  The  streets  are 
wide,  and  in  the  business  portion  of  the  city  are  paved.  They  are 
shaded  with  fine  trees.  In  this  portion  the  city  is  compactly  built. 
In  the  upper  portion  it  is  scattered  over  a  great  deal  of  ground.  The 
general  appearance  of  the  city  is  handsome,  though  there  are  no  very 
fine  public  buildings.  The  business  houses  are  generally  plain.  -The 
private  residences  of  the  city  will  compare  favorably  with  anything  in 
the  Union.  As  a  rule  they  stand  in  the  midst  of  large  grounds,  and 
the  orange  and  finer  fruits  form  a  prominent  part  of  the  foliage  with 
which  they  are  surrounded.  Government  street  is  the  most  attractive 
in  the  city,  and  is  the  favorite  promenade. 

The  principal  public  building  is  the  Custom  House,  a  showy  edifice 
of  white  marble.  The  others,  the  Municipal  Buildings,  the  Theatre, 
the  Markets  (the  handsomest  in  the  South),  the  Odd  Fellows'  and 
Temperance  Halls,  and  the  Battle  House,  the  principal  hotel. 

The  churches  are  numerous  and  handsome.  The  Benevolent  Insti- 
tutions are,  the  Blind  Asylum,  the  City  Hospital,  the  Roman  Catholic 
Male  and  Female  Orphan  Asylums,  the  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum, 
the  United  States  Marine  Hospital,  and  several  societies  for  the  relief 
of  the  poor  and  suffering. 

The  schools  of  the  city  are  excellent.  There  are  14  large  public 
schools,  and  a  number  of  private  seminaries.  The  Mobile  College  is  a 
flourishing  institution.  Spring  Hill  College,  6  miles  from  the  city,  is 
regarded  as  one  of  the  schools  of  Mobile.  It  is  controlled  by  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  spring  water, 
brought  from  a  distance  of  2  miles  in  iron  pipes.  It  possesses  an  effi- 
cient police  force,  and  a  steam  fire  engine  department.  It  is  governed 
by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population  was  32,184. 

The  position  of  Mobile  has  made  it  a  place  of  great  commercial  im- 
portance. It  is  the  natural  outlet  of  the  great  cotton  country  lying 
north  of  it,  and  watered  by  the  Alabama  and  its  tributaries.  The 


ALABAMA. 


679 


city  extends  along  the  river  shore  for  more  than  two  miles  east  and 
west.  The  bay  is  shallow  and  difficult  of  navigation,  and  it  is  dan- 
gerous for  vessels  drawing  more  than  7  feet  of  water  to  attempt  to 
reach  the  city.  Large  vessels  lie  near  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  and  their 
cargoes  are  sent  down  to  them  on  lighters  or  schooners.  Mobile  is 
the  second  cotton  port  of  the  Union,  ranking  next  to  New  Orleans  in 
the  amount  of  its  shipments  of  this  great  staple.  A  large  portion  of 
its  shipments  are  made  direct  to  Europe.  Previous  to  the  civil  war 
it  exported  annually  about  632,000  bales  of  cotton.  It  is  rapidly  re- 
newing its  former  importance.  Considerable  shipping  is  owned  in  the 
port.  There  is  daily  communication  by  steamboats  with  the  towns 
on  the  Alabama  and  its  tributaries,  and  with  New  Orleans  by  way  of 
Lakes  Borgne  and  Pontchartrain.  A  considerable  trade  is  maintained 
by  sailing  vessels  with  the  Atlantic  and  Gulf  ports.  The  harbor  is 
defended  by  Forts  Morgan  and  Gaines. 

Mobile  was  settled  in  1702  by  the  French  under  Bienville,  and  was 
for  many  years  the  capital  of  the  Colony  of  Louisiana.  Its  early  his- 
tory is  very  interesting,  but  must  be  passed  over  here.  In  1723  the 
seat  of  government  was  removed  to  New  Orleans.  In  1763  Mobile, 
with  all  that  portion  of  Louisiana  lying  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and 


680  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

north  of  Bayou  Iberville,  Lakes  Maurepas  and  Pontchartrain,  passed 
into  the  possession  of  Great  Britain  by  the  terms  of  the  Treaty  of 
Paris.  In  1780  the  fort  and  town  were  captured  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  in  1783  the  occupancy  of  the  place  was  confirmed  to  Spain  by  the 
cession  to  that  Power  of  all  the  British  possessions  on  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  In  April,  1813,  the  town  was  surrendered  by  the  Spaniards 
to  the  United  States  forces  under  General  Wilkinson,  and  since  then 
it  has  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  Republic.  In  1819  Mobile 
was  incorporated  as  a  city.  It  then  contained  a  population  of  800. 
During  the  civil  war  Mobile  was  one  of  the  principal  ports  of  the 
Confederates.  It  was  blockaded  by  the  United  States  forces  during 
the  war.  In  the  spring  of  1865  Forts  Morgan  and  Gaines  were  re- 
duced by  the  United  States  army,  and  the  Confederate  fleet,  under 
Admiral  Buchanan,  was  defeated  and  destroyed  by  the  squadron  of 
Admiral  Farragut,  in  the  desperate  battle  of  Mobile  Bay.  These  suc- 
cesses on  the  part  of  the  United  States  forces  resulted  in  their  occupa- 
tion of  the  city  of  Mobile. 

MISCELLANY. 

BATTLE    OF    THE    HORSE-SHOE    BEND. 

The  Creeks  concentrated  their  forces  at  the  great  bend  of  the  Tallapoosa,  usu- 
ally called  Horse-Shoe  by  the  whites,  and  Tohopeka  by  the  Indians,  a  word  in 
their  language  said  to  signify  a  horse-shoe.  The  peninsula  formed  by  the  bend 
contained  about  100  acres,  on  which  was  a  village  of  some  200  houses.  About 
1000  Indians,  from  the  adjoining  districts,  had  fortified  themselves  on  the  penin- 
eitla  with  great  skill,  having  a  formidable  breastwTork  built  of  large  logs.  They 
had  also  an  ample  supply  of  provisions  and  ammunition. 

On  the  16th  of  March,  1814,  General  Jackson,  having  received  considerable 
reinforcements  of  volunteers  from  Tennessee,  and  friendly  Indians,  left  Fort 
Strother  with  his  whole  disposable  force,  amounting  to  about  3000  of  every  de- 
scription, on  an  expedition  against  this  assemblage  of  Indians.  He  proceeded 
down  the  Coosa  60  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Cedar  Creek,  where  he  established  a 
post  called  Fort  Williams,  and  proceeded  on  the  24th  across  the  ridge  of  land  di- 
viding the  waters  of  the  Coosa  from  the  Tallapoosa ;  and  arrived  at  the  great 
bend  on  the  morning  of  the  27th,  having  the  three  preceding  days  opened  a  pas- 
sage through  the  wilderness  of  52  miles.  On  the  26th,  he  passed  the  battle  ground 
of  the  22d  of  January,  and  left  it  3  miles  in  his  rear.  General  Coffee  was  de- 
tached, with  700  cavalry  and  mounted  gunmen,  and  600  friendly  Indians,  to  cross 
the  river  below  the  bend,  secure  the  opposite  banks,  and  prevent  escape.  Having 
crossed  at  the  Little  Island  ford,  3  miles  below  the  bend,  his  Indians  were  ordered 
silently  to  approach  and  line  the  banks  of  the  river,  while  the  mounted  men  oc- 
cupied the  adjoining  heights,  to  guard  against  reinforcements,  which  might  be 
expected  from  the  Oakfusky  towns,  8  miles  below.  Lieutenant  Bean,  at  the  same 
time,  was  ordered  to  occupy  Little  Island,  at  the  fording  place,  to  secure  any  that 
might  attempt  to  escape  in  that  direction.  In  the  meantime,  General  Jackson, 


ALABAMA.  681 

with  the  artillery  and  infantry,  moved  on  in  slow  and  regular  order  to  the  isthmus, 
and  planted  his  guns  on  an  eminence  150  yards  in  front  of  the  breastwork.  On 
perceiving  that  General  Coffee  had  completed  his  arrangements  below,  he  opened 
a  fire  upon  the  fortification,  but  found  he  could  make  no  other  impression  with 
his  artillery  than  boring  shot-holes  through  the  logs.  General  Coffee's  Indians, 
on  the  bank,  hearing  the  roaring  of  the  cannon  in  front,  and  observing  consider- 
able confusion  on  the  peninsula,  supposing  the  battle  to  be  nearly  won,  crossed 
over  and  set  fire  to  the  village,  and  attacked  the  Creeks  in  the  rear.  At  this  mo- 
ment General  Jackson  ordered  an  assault  upon  the  works  in  front.  The  regular 
troops,  led  by  Colonel  Williams,  accompanied  by  a  part  of  the  militia  of  General 
Dougherty's  brigade,  led  on  by  Colonel  Russell,  presently  got  possession  of  a 
part  of  the  works,  amid  a  tremendous  fire  from  behind  them.  The  advance  guard 
was  led  by  Colonel  Sisler,  and  the  left  extremity  of  the  line  by  Captain  Gordon 
of  the  spies,  and  Captain  M'Marry,  of  General  Johnson's  brigade  of  West  Ten- 
nessee militia.  The  battle  for  a  short  time  was  obstinate,  and  fought  musket  to 
musket  through  the  port-holes  ;  when  the  assailants  succeeded  in  getting  posses- 
sion of  the  opposite  side  of  the  works,  and  the  contest  ended.  The  Creeks  were 
entirely  routed,  and  the  whole  margin  of  the  river  strewed  with  the  slain.  The 
troops  under  General  Jackson,  and  General  Coffee's  Indians,  who  had  crossed 
over  into  the  peninsula,  continued  the  work  of  destruction  as  long  as  there  was  a 
Creek  to  be  found.  General  Coffee,  on  seeing  his  Indians  crossing  over,  had 
ordered  their  places  to  be  supplied  on  the  bank  by  his  riflemen  ;  and  every  Indian 
that  attempted  to  escape  by  swimming  the  river,  or  crossing  the  Little  Island  be- 
low, was  met  and  slain  by  General  Coffee's  troops.  The  battle,  as  long  as  any 
appearance  of  resistance  remained,  lasted  five  hours ;  the  slaughter  continued 
until  dark,  and  was  renewed  the  next  morning,  when  16  more  of  the  unfortunate 
savages  were  hunted  out  of  their  hiding  places  and  slain.  Five  hundred  and 
fifty-seven  warriors  were  found  dead  on  the  peninsula  ;  among  whom  was  their 
famous  prophet  Manahell,  and  two  others,  the  principal  instigators  of  the  war ; 
250  more  were  estimated  to  have  been  killed  in  crossing  the  river,  and  at  other 
places,  which  were  not  found.  General  Jackson's  loss  was  26  white  men,  and 
28  Indians,  killed  ;  and  107  white  men,  and  47  Indians,  wounded. 

This  decisive  victory  put  an  end  to  the  Creek  war.  In  the  short  period  of  five 
months,  from  the  1st  of  November  to  the  1st  of  April,  2000  of  their  warriors, 
among  whom  were  their  principal  prophets  and  kings,  had  been  slain,  most  of  their 
towns  and  villages  burned,  and  the  strong  places  in  their  territory  occupied  by 
the  United  States  troops.  After  this  battle,  the  miserable  remnant  of  the  hostile 
tribes  submitted.  Weatherford,  the  principal  surviving  chief  and  prophet,  who 
led  the  Indians  at  Fort  Mimms,  accompanied  his  surrender  with  this  address  to 
General  Jackson : 

"  I  fought  at  Fort  Mimms — I  fought  the  Georgia  army — I  did  you  all  the  injury 
I  could.  Had  I  been  supported  as  I  was  promised,  I  would  have  done  you  more. 
But  my  warriors  are  all  killed.  I  can  fight  no  longer.  I  look  back  with  sorrow 
l hat  I  have  brought  destruction  upon  my  nation.  I  am  now  in  your  power.  Do 
with  me  as  you  please.  I  am  a  soldier." 


MIS-SISSIPPI. 

Area, 47,156  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 791,305 

(Whites,  353,901 ;  Negroes,  437,404.) 
Population  in  1870, 827,992 

THE  State  of  Mississippi  is  situated  between  30°  20'  and  35°  N. 
latitude,  and  between  88°  12'  and  91°  40'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Tennessee,  on  the  east  by  Alabama,  on  the  south  by 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  Louisiana,  and  on  the  west  by  Louisiana  and 
Arkansas,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Mississippi  River.  Its 
extreme  length,  from  north  to  south,  is  about  400  miles,  and  its 
average  width,  from  east  to  west,  about  150  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The. northern  and  eastern  sections  of  the  State  constitute  a  fine 
rolling  country,  which,  extending  westward,  approaches  the  Mississippi 
in  many  parts  in  high  bluffs  or  in  high  hills.  The  southern  part  of 
the  State  is  level.  Much  of  the  State  is  marshy,  while  the  country 
along  the  Yazoo  and  Sunflower  rivers  is  almost  a  continuous  swamp, 
and  exceedingly  fertile.  The  northeastern  counties  are  fine  prairie 
land,  and  the  southeastern  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  pine,  known 
as  the  "  Piney  Woods."  . 

The  Mississippi  River,  already  described,  washes  the  entire  western 
shore  of  the  State.  Its  tributaries  in  this  State  are,  beginning  on  the 
north,  the  Yazoo,  Big  Black,  and  Homochito,  and  a  number  of  small 
streams.  The  Yazoo  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Tallahatchic 
and  Yallobusha  rivers,  at  Leflore,  in  Carroll  county.  The  general 
direction  of  the  main  stream  and  its  branches  is  southwest.  The  former 
682 


MISSISSIPPI.  683 

flows  into  the  Mississippi  about  twelve  miles  above  Vicksburg.  It 
is  290  miles  long,  and  flows  through  a  country  remarkable  for  its 
fertility.  It  is  navigable  for  its  entire  length  for  steamers,  at  all  sea- 
sons of  the  year.  It  is  very  tortuous  in  its  course,  fully  equalling  the 
Mississippi  in  this  respect.  Its  principal  branch,  the  Tallahatchie,  is 
said  to  be  as  long  as  the  Yazoo.  and  is  quite  as  serpentine  in  its 
course.  It  is  navigable  for  100  miles.  The  Sunflower  River  flows 
into  the  Yazoo  near  its  mouth.  The  Big  Black  River  rises  in  Choc- 
taw  county,  flows  southwest  for  200  miles,  and  empties  into  the 
Mississippi  at  Grand  Gulf.  It  is  navigable  for  50  miles.  The  country 
along  its  banks  is  highly  fertile  and  is  lined  with  fine  cotton  planta- 
tions, but  is  sickly.  The  Pearl  River  rises  in  the  central  part  of  the 
State  and  flows  southwest  to  Jackson,  the  capital  of  the  State,  where 
it  changes  its  course,  and  flows  southeast,  through  Lake  Borgne,  into 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  forms  the  west  boundary  between  the  ex- 
treme southern  part  of  Mississippi  and  Louisiana.  It  is  250  miles 
long,  and  is  only  navigable  at  high  water,  in  consequence  of  being 
obstructed  by  numerous  sand-bars  and  accumulations  of  drift-wood. 
The  southeast  part  of  the  State  is  watered  by  the  Pascagoula,  which 
is  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Chickasawbay  and  Leaf  rivers, 
which  in  their  turn  receive  the  waters  of  numerous  small  streams. 
Light-draft  steamers  ascend  the  Pascagoula  and  the  Leaf  to  a  point 
100  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

A  chain  of  low  islands  extending  along  the  southern  coast,  at  some 
distance  from  the  mainland,  encloses  a  number  of  small  sounds,  of 
which  Mississippi  Sound  and  Biloxi  Bay  are  the  principal.  Lake 
Borgne  lies  partly  in  this  State,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Pearl 
K"  ver. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  varies  in  the  northern  and  southern  parts  of  the  State. 
In  the  former  it  is  mild  and  pleasant  in  the  summer,  but  severer  in 
winter  than  the  climate  of  the  northeastern  part  of  South  Carolina. 
The  writer  can  testify  that  northern  Mississippi  in  winter  deserves  any 
title  rather  than  that  of  the  "Sunny  South."  Fine  apples  and  wheat 
are  raised  here.  The  climate  of  the  southern  part  is  hot  and  trying. 
Tropical  fruits  ripen  thoroughly  here.  The  fig  and  the  orange  grow 
to  great  perfection  without  requiring  shelter.  Cotton  and  Indian  corn 
are  raised  here. 


684 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


PICKING  COTTON. 


SOIL  AND   PRODUCTIONS. 

The  northeast  part  of  the  State,  as  we  have  said,  is  occupied  by  fine 
prairie  lands.  Here  the  soil  consists  of  a  rich  black  loam.  In  the 
southeast  it  is  sandy.  Fruits  flourish  here.  The  best  lands  lie  be- 
tween the  Tennessee  border  and  the  Big  Black  River,  particularly 
between  the  Yazoo  and  its  tributaries  and  the  Mississippi. 

Previous  to  the  war  cotton  was  the  great  staple,  this  State  producing 
more  of  that  article  than  any  other  member  of  the  Union.  The  Re- 
port of  the  United  States  Bureau  of  Agriculture  for  March,  1868,  thus 
speaks  of  the  capacity  of  the  State  for  producing  other  staples  : 

"  In  the  rich  alluvial  soils  of  Washington  county,  *  wheat  was 
grown  during  the  war,  and  its  yield  was  thirty  bushels  per  acre.' 
White  and  red  varieties  have  been  grown  to  some  extent  in  Yazoo ; 
•  white  preferred,  as  less  liable  to  rust.  In  Leake,  a  preference  is  give/a 


MISSISSIPPI.  685 

to  the  hardier  red  wheat.  lied  wheat  is  preferred  in  Winston.  In 
Pike,  little  attention  is  paid  to  wheat,  e  though  the  grain  is  plump 
and  the  bran  is  thinner  than  in  more  northern  latitudes/  In  De  Soto, 
1  wheat  has  never  been  to  any  extent  an  article  made  for  market, 
though  the  county  has  two  or  three  times  before  1860  sent  the  first  to 
the  St.  Louis  market.  In  1860,  fully  half  the  flour  consumed  was 
grown  here;  in  1866  and  1867,  very  little  was  grown,  though  the 
land  in  wheat  in  1867  yielded  a  good  crop.  A  very  large  breadth 
of  land  is  now  in  wheat/  The  usual  time  of  sowing  is  between  the 
15th  of  October  and  first  of  November,  though  many  sow  in  the 
early  part  of  October,  and  some  in  the  latter  portion  of  September. 
The  time  of  harvesting  is  generally  the  last  week  in  May;  early 
varieties,  with  good  season,  are  cut  somewhat  earlier.  The  length 
of  the  season  is  variously  stated,  from  six  to  twelve  months.  The 
fact  is,  that  stock  are  never  fed  to  any  appreciable  extent,  with  the 
exception  of  horses  and  mules.  Sheep  and  cattle  pick  up  their  living 
in  the  winter  months,  as  in  summer.  It  is  true  that  sheep  and  horned 
stock,  as  well  as  horses,  are  sometimes  treated  to  occasional  winter 
pasturage  upon  rye  or  barley  sown  in  September.  With  this  help  it 
is  possible  to  keep  large  flocks  of  sheep,  with  little  expense;  and 
other  kinds  of  farm  animals  may  be  brought  through  the  winter  in 
good  condition  without  other  feed.  The  price  of  pasturage  is 
estimated  at  very  low  rates ;  in  some  counties  as  low  as  $2  or  $3  per 
season,  while  others  range  higher,  up  to  '$1  per  month.  Figs  and 
peaches  everywhere  abound,  growing  rapidly  and  bearing  profusely 
and  surely.  Until  lately  no  profit  was  derived  from  them,  and  now 
only  on  the  line  of  railroad  running  lengthwise  through  the  State. 
Formerly  peaches  were  pecuniarily  profitable  only  in  port-making. 
The  crop  is  very  sure  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State ;  in  the  north- 
ern, it  is  sometimes  injured  by  frosts.  Apples  do  pretty  well,  if  kinds 
are  selected  which  suit  the  climate.  Small  fruits  produce  in  great 
abundance.  The  pear  is  apt  to  blight,  but  is  favorably  mentioned  in 
some  localities.  Grapes  do  well  in  the  poorest  soils,  and  are  free 
from  disease." 

Since  the  war  much  of  the  land  that  was  formerly  planted  in  cotton 
has  been  devoted  to  raising  wheat  and  corn. 

In  1869  there  were  5,065,755  acres  of  cultivated  land  in  Mississippi. 
The  other  agricultural  returns  for  the  same  year  were  as  follows : 

Bales  of  cotton, 725,000 

Pounds  of  rice  (estimated),  ........         400.000 


686  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Bushels  of  wheat, 267,000 

Indian  corn, 30,000,000 

peas  and  beans, 1,988,806 

sweet  potatoes  (estimated),      .    .    .  4,500,000 

Tons  of  hay, 40,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 5,006,610 

Number  of  horses, .    .  117,870 

mules  and  asses,       121,960 

"           milch  cows, .    .    .  300,101 

sheep, 500,340 

swine, •    .  1,750,101 

"           young  cattle, 600,708 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $49,891,692 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Mississippi  has  no  foreign  commerce  of  her  own.  Her  cotton  is 
exported  from  Mobile  and  New  Orleans,  and  her  imports  are  dra\\n 
mainly  through  New  York  and  New  Orleans.  Lumber  and  naval 
stores  are  becoming  prominent  articles  of  export. 

But  little  attention  is  paid  to  manufactures,  agriculture  being  the 
principal  pursuit  of  the  people.  In  1860  the  State  contained  976 
manufacturing  establishments,  employing  a  capital  of  $4,384,492,  and 
yielding  an  annual  product  of  $6,590,  687.  Of  the  above  227  were 
saw-mills,  producing  $1,823,627  worth  of  lumber. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872  there  were  in  Mississippi  900  miles  of  completed  railroads, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  $28,000,000.  The  main  line  of  travel 
from  New  York  to  New  Orleans,  and  from  the  west  to  that  city,  passes 
through  the  centre  of  the  State  from  the  Tennessee  line  southward 
into  Louisiana.  Another  line,  from  Vicksburg  to  the  Alabama  line, 
crosses  the  centre  of  the  State,  from  west  to  east,  and  the  road  from 
Mobile  to  the  Ohio  River,  extends  from  north  to  south,  through 
almost  the  entire  eastern  tier  of  counties,  while  the  northeast  county 
is  crossed  by  the  great  line  from  Memphis  to  Chattanooga,  Tenn.,  and 
the  Atlantic  States.  These  roads  place  all  points  of  the  State  within 
rapid  communication  with  each  other,  and  with  the  whole  country. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  there  were  in  the  State,  19  colleges,  with  over  1300  stu- 
dents; and  1545  other  schools,  with  over  40,000  pupils.  The  school 
system  of  this  State  was  one  of  the  best  in  the  South,  but  was  entirely 
broken  up  by  the  civil  war. 


MISSISSIPPI.  68t 

The  new  Constitution  makes  a  liberal  provision  for  the  cause  of 
education.  The  school  system  is  placed  under  the  control  of  a  State 
Superintendent  and  a  Board  of  Education,  who  nominate  to  the  State 
Senate  suitable  persons  for  the  office  of  County  Superintendent.  Each 
county  constitutes  a  separate  school  district,  also  each  city  of  more 
than  5000  inhabitants.  The  State  Board  and  Superintendent  have 
power  to  prescribe  the  course  of  studies  for  the  schools.  The  immedi- 
ate management  of  the  schools  is  confided  to  local  Boards  of  School 
Directors  appointed  by  the  County  Superintendents.  The  Constitu- 
tion requires  an  annual  taxation  by  the  County  Supervisors  upon  the 
taxable  property  of  each  district,  of  not  more  than  ten  mills  on  the 
dollar,  for  school-house  purposes,  and  of  not  more  than  five  mills  on 
the  dollar  for  a  teachers'  fund.  It  is  hoped  that  the  new  system  will  be 
fairly  inaugurated  within  the  present  year. 

The  University  of  Mississippi,  at  Oxford,  was  the  principal  institu- 
tion of  learning  in  the  State  previous  to  the  war,  and  held  a  deser- 
vedly high  rank  in  the  South.  It  was  closed  during  the  war,  but  has 
since  resumed  its  exercises  with  success. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Asylum  for  the  Blind  contains  about  21  pupils,  and  is 
located  at  Jackson.  The  Insane  Hospital  is  at  the  same  place,  and 
contains  about  150  patients.  The  Deaf  and  Dumb  of  the  State  have 
been  for  some  years  cared  for  at  the  Louisiana  Asylum  at  Baton 
Rouge.  The  State  Penitentiary,  at  Jackson,  contains  at  present  about 
350  prisoners,  and  is  in  a  rather  embarrassed  condition. 

FINANCES. 

In  1870  there  was  no  public  debt  due  by  the  State.  From  October 
16th,  1865,  to  March  1,  1870,  the  total  receipts  of  the  Treasury  of 
the  State  were  $4,351,741,  of  which  $2,267,488  was  in  uncurrent 
funds.  The  disbursements  for  the  same  period  was  $2,319,532. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  State  election,  under  the  provisions  of  the  Reconstruction  Act, 
took  place  on  the  30th  of  November,  and  the  1st  of  December,  1869, 
and  at  this  election  the  new  Constitution  of  the  State  was  ratified  by 
the  people.  On  the  17th  of  February,  1870,  the  State  was  readmitted 
into  the  Union. 

The  State  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Gov- 


688  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ernor,  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor  of  Public  Accounts^and 
Attorney -General,  and  a  Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate  of  33  mem- 
bers, and  a  House  of  Representatives  of  107  members. 

By  the  terms  of  the  Constitution,  all  male  inhabitants  of  this  State, 
except  idiots  and  insane  persons,  and  Indians  not  taxed,  citizens  of 
the  United  States,  or  naturalized,  21  years  of  age,  who  have  resided 
in  the  State  six  months,  and  in  the  county  one  month,  are  entitled  to 
vote  at  the  elections,  unless  disqualified  by  reason  of  crime. 

There  is  a  Supreme  Court,  consisting  of  three  judges  appointed  by 
the  Governor.  These  elect  one  of  their  number  to  the  office  of  Chief 
Justice.  It  is  a  high  court  of  errors  and  appeals.  The  State  is 
divided  into  15  districts,  each  possessing  its  Circuit  Court  presided  over 
by  a  judge,  and  having  criminal  jurisdiction  and  jurisdiction  in  civil 
suits  at  common  law.  The  judges  of  these  courts  are  prohibited  from 
practising  law  in  any  of  the  State  or  United  States  courts  during  their 
terms  of  office.  For  the  purposes  of  Chancery  Courts,  the  State  is 
divided  into  20  districts,  for  each  of  which  a  Chancellor  is  to  be  ap- 
pointed by  the  Governor,  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the 
Senate.  A  Chancery  Court  is  to  be  held  in  each  county  four  times 
a  year. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Jackson. 

HISTORY. 

Fernando  de  Soto  and  his  companions,  who  entered  the  State  in 
1540,  were  the  first  Europeans  who  trod  the  soil  of  Mississippi.  At 
that  time  the  present  territory  of  the  State  was  divided  between  the 
Choctaw,  Chickasaw  and  Natchez  Indians.  La  Salle  descended  the 
Mississippi  River  from  the  Illinois  country  to  the  Gulf  in  1681,  and 
in  1700,  Iberville,  the  Frence  Governor  of  Louisiana,  planted  a 
colony  on  Ship  Island,  on  the  Gulf  coast,  from  which  the  settlement 
was  removed  to  Biloxi  on  the  mainland.  In  1716,  Bienville,  then 
Governor  of  Louisiana,  established  a  post  on  the  Mississippi  River, 
and  called  \tFort  Rosalie.  In  1700,  Iberville  had  designated  this 
spot  as  a  good  site  for  a  town,  and  had  called  it  Rosalie,  in  honor  of 
Rosalie  Countess  of  Pontchartrain,  of  France.  The  present  city  of 
Natchez  occupies  this  site. 

In  1729,  the  Natchez  Indians,  becoming  alarmed  at  the  growing 
powrer  of  the  French,  resolved  to  exterminate  them.  On  the  28th  of 
November,  of  this  year,  they  fell  upon  the  settlement  at  Fort  Rosalie, 
and  massacred  the  garrison  and  settlers,  700  in  number.  When  the 


MISSISSIPPI.  689 

news  of  this  terrible  tragedy  reached  New  Orleans,  Bienville  resolved 
to  retaliate  severely  upon  the  aggressors.  He  applied  to  the  Chicka- 
saws, the  enemies  of  the  Natchez,  fof  assistance,  and  was  furnished 
by  them  with  1600  warriors.  With  these  and  his  own  troops,  Bien- 
ville besieged  the  Natchez  in  their  fort,  but  they  escaped  under  cover 
of  the  night,  and  fled  west  of  the  Mississippi.  They  were  followed 
by  the  French  and  forced  to  surrender ;  after  which,  they  were  taken 
to  New  Orleans,  and  transported  to  the  Island  of  St.  Domingo,  and 
sold  as  slaves.  Being  a  small  nation,  these  measures  literally  exter- 
minated them. 

It  was  well  known  to  the  French  that  the  Chickasaws,  a  powerful 
tribe  dwelling  in  the  fertile  regions  of  the  upper  Tombigbee,  had  in- 
cited the  Natchez  against  them,  and  Bienville  resolved  to  turn  his 
arms  against  them.  In  1736,  he  sailed  from  New  Orleans  to  Mobile 
with  a  strong  force  of  French  troops  and  1200  Choctaw  warriors. 
Upon  reaching  Mobile,  he  ascended  the  Tombigbee  River,  in  boats, 
for  500  miles,  to  the  southeastern  border  of  the  present  county  of 
Pontotoc.  The  site  of  his  landing  is  now  known  as  Cotton  Gin  Port. 
The  Chickasaw  fort,  a  powerful  stronghold,  was  about  25  miles  from 
this  point.  Having  taken  measures  to  secure  his  boats,  Bienville  ad- 
vanced against  the  enemy.  He  made  a  determined  assault  on  the 
hostile  fort,  but  was  repulsed  with  a  loss  of  100  men,  which  so  dis- 
couraged him  that  he  dismissed  the  Choctaws  with  presents,  threw  his 
cannon  in  the  Tombigbee,  and  reembarking  in  his  boats,  floated  down 
the  river  to  Mobile,  whence  he  returned  to  New  Orleans. 

aOne  important  part  of  the  plan  of  the  campaign  against  the 
Chickasaws  was  to  have  the  cooperation  of  a  force  of  French  and  In- 
dians from  Canada.  D'Artaguette,  the  pride  and  flower  of  the  French 
at  the  North,  procured  the  aid  of  '  Chicago,'  the  Illinois  chief  from 
the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan.  His  lieutenant  was  the  gallant  Vin- 
cenneSj  from  the  settlement  on  the  Wabash.  These  heroes  came  down 
the  river  unobserved  to  the  last  Chickasaw  bluff,  and  from  thence 
penetrated  into  the  heart  of  the  country.  On  the  10th  of  May  they 
encamped,  it  is  supposed,  about  six  miles  east  of  the  present  town  of 
Pontotoc,  near  the  appointed  place  of  rendezvous  with  the  force  of 
Bienville.  Having  waited  for  some  time  in  vain  for  intelligence  from 
the  chief  commander,  the  Indian  allies  of  D'Artaguette  became  impa- 
tient for  war  and  plunder,  and  could  not  be  restrained,  when  D'Arta- 
guette consented  to  lead  them  to  the  attack.  He  drove  the  Chicka- 
saws from  two  of  their  fortified  villages,  but  was  severely  wounded  in 
44 


690  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

his  attack  on  the  third.  His  allies,  the  red  men  of  Illinois,  dismayed 
at  this  check,  fled  precipitately,  and  D'Artaguette  was  left  weltering 
in  his  blood.  Yincennes,  his  lieutenant,  and  the  Jesuit  Senat,  their 
spiritual  guide  and  friend,  refusing  to  fly,  shared  the  captivity  of  their 
gallant  leader.  They  were  treated  with  great  care  and  attention  by 
the  Chickasaws,  who  were  in  hopes  of  obtaining  a  great  ransom  from 
Bienville,  then  advancing  into  their  country.  After  his  retreat,  the 
Chickasaws,  despairing  of  receiving  anything  for  their  prisoners,  tor- 
tured and  burnt  them  over  a  slow  fire,  leaving  but  one  alive  to  relate 
their  fate  to  their  countrymen." 

In  1763  the  French  possessions  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the 
Spanish  province  of  Florida,  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  English. 
In  1783  the  country  north  of  the  31st  parallel  was  included  within 
the  limits  of  the  United  States.  The  territory  of  Georgia  extended 
under  its  charter  to  the  Mississippi;  and  in  1795  was  sold  to  the 
General  Government  by  the  Legislature  of  Georgia.  In  1798  the 
territory  of  Mississippi  was  organized,  and  on  the  10th  of  December, 
1817  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State. 

On  the  9th  of  January,  1861,  the  State  seceded  from  the  Union  and 
joined  the  Southern  Confederacy,  of  which  Jefferson  Davis,  an  emi- 
nent citizen  of  Mississippi,  was  chosen  President.  In  1862  the 
northern  part  of  the  State  became  the  scene  of  military  operations, 
and  continued  to  be  occupied  at  various  times  by  the  two  armies  until 
the  close  of  the  war.  The  bloody  battles  of  luka,  and  Corinth,  and 
a  number  of  minor  conflicts,  were  fought  in  this  part  of  Mississippi. 
In  1862  the  city  of  Vicksburg,  on  the  Mississippi  River,  which  was 
said  to  be  the  strongest  place  in  the  South,  was  attacked  by  the 
Federal  fleet.  From  this  time  until  its  capture  by  General  Grant  in 
July,  1863,  it  was  the  object  of  the  most  persistent  efforts  of  the 
United  States  forces.  During  the  operations  connected  with  the  siege 
of  this  place,  severe  battles  were  fought  at  Jackson,  Champion  Hills, 
and  other  points  back  of  the  city.  The  State  was  traversed  repeatedly 
by  raiding  parties  of  cavalry  from  the  Union  lines,  which  inflicted 
great  damage  upon  it.  The  destruction  of  property  caused  by  the  war 
was  immense.  Industry  of  all  kinds  was  paralyzed,  and  at  the  close 
of  the  struggle  the  state  of  affairs  was  made  temporarily  worse  by  the 
abolition  of  slavery,  which  threw  the  labor  system  into  confusion. 

Upon  the  return  of  peace  a  Provisional  Government  was  established 
in  the  State  by  the  President  of  the  United  States.  It  was  repudiated 
and  abolished  by  Congress,  and  in  1867  the  State  was  made  a  part 


MISSISSIPPI. 


691 


JACKSON. 


of  the  Fourth  Military  District.  It  remained  subject  to  military  rule 
until  the  close  of  the  year  1869,  when  it  was  readmitted  into  the 
Union. 

•CITIES   AND   TOWNS. 

Ihe  cities  and  towns,  besides  the  capital,  are,  Vicksburg,  Natchez, 
Columbus,  Holly  Springs,  Grenada,  Oxford,  Canton,  Raymond,  Port 
Gibson,  and  Corinth.  There  are  no  large  cities  in  Mississippi. 

JACKSON, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Hinds  county,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Pearl  Eiver.  Latitude,  32°  23'  N. ;  longitude,  90°  8' 
W.  It  is  45  miles  east  of  Vicksburg,  and  1010  miles  southwest  of 
Washington.  It  is  built  on  a  level  plain,  is  regularly  laid  out,  and 
contains  some  handsome  buildings,  but  is  indifferently  built  in  the 
main.  The  State  House  is  a  handsome  structure,  as  is  also  the  Gov- 
ernor's Mansion.  The  other  public  buildings  are,  the  State  lunatic 
Asylum,  the  Penitentiary,  and  the  United  States  Land  Office.  It  con- 
tains several  churches  and  schools,  and  3  newspaper  offices,  and  is 
lighted  with  gas.  In  1870  the  population  was  4234. 

Jackson  is  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  railway  line  from  the 
North  and  West  with  that  from  Vicksburg  to  Meridian,  Mobile,  etc., 
and  previous  to  the  war  possessed  a  considerable  trade,  shipping  an- 
nually about  30,000  bales  of  cotton.  It  is  gradually  recovering  this 


692 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


NATCHEZ. 

trade.  The  Pearl  River  is  navigable  from  its  mouth  to  the  city  for 
small  steamers. 

Jackson  suffered  severely  from  the  war.  It  was  twice  captured  by 
the  Federal  armies,  and  its  streets  were  the  scene  of  severe  battles. 
The  city  and  public  buildings  were  greatly  damaged  by  the  effects  of 
the  cannonading  and  by  fire. 

NATCHEZ, 

The  second  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Adams  county,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  100  miles  southwest  of  Jackson,  and 
279  miles  (by  water)  northwest  of  New  Orleans.  It  is  situated  on  a 
bluff,  200  feet  in  height,  overlooking  the  river  and  the  great  cypress 
swamps  of  Louisiana.  The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  located 
along  the  river  shore.  This  portion  is  known  as  Natchez- under-the- 
Hill,  and  it  is  here  that  the  river  trade,  which  is  the  principal  source 
of  the  city's  prosperity,  is  conducted.  The  retail  stores  and  private 
residences  are  located  on  the  bluff. 

The  city  proper  is  regularly  laid  out  and  well  built.  The  principal 
public  buildings  are  handsome  edifices.  They  are  the  Court  House, 
Orphan  Asylum,  and  Masonic  Hall.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  are 
well  shaded.  The  private  residences  are  among  the  handsomest  in 
the  South,  and  are  pleasantly  situated  in  the  midst  of  gardens  adorned 
with  flowers,  orange  trees,  etc.  There  are  6  churches,  a  hospital,  a 
number  of  schools,  and  2  newspaper  offices  in  the  city.  Its  public 


MISSISSIPPI.  693 

school  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  South.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas, 
and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  it  contained 
9057  inhabitants. 

Natchez  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  agricultural  country,  with 
which  it  carries  on  a  large  and  growing  trade.  It  is  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal towns  on  the  Mississippi,  and  its  river  trade  is  extensive  and 
valuable.  Large  quantities  of  cotton  are  shipped  from  Natchez  to 
New  Orleans. 

Natchez  was  settled  in  1716  by  the  French,  under  Bienville.  It 
was  the  seat  of  the  famous  tribe  of  Natchez  Indians.  Bienville  called 
his  settlement  Fort  Rosalie.  In  1729,  the  garrison  of  the  fort  was 
massacred  by  the  Indians.  The  French  at  New  Orleans  punished 
this  outrage  by  exterminating  the  Natchez.  By  the  peace  of  1763, 
the  Natchez  District  passed  into  the  hands  of  Great  Britain, 'and  the 
next  year  it  was  included  in  West  Florida.  In  1783,  it  passed  into 
the  possession  of  Spain  with  the  province  of  Florida.  In  1796,  it 
was  ceded  by  Spain  to  the  United  States,  though  the  delivery  was  not 
made  until  1798.  In  1803,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  city.  During 
the  civil  war,  it  was  captured  by  the  forces  of  the  United  States. 

V1CKSBURG, 

The  largest  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Warren  county,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  45  miles  west  of  Jackson,  and  395  miles  by 
water  above  New  Orleans.  The  city  is  built  along  a  range  of  hills 
which  rise  abruptly  from  the  river.  The  principal  streets  run  parallel 
with  the  river,  and  the  others  cross  them  at  right-angles.  The  prin- 
cipal business  streets  are  those  nearest  the  river.  Vicksbnrg  is  one 
of  the  best  built  cities  in  the  South.  The  private  residences  arc  situ- 
ated on  the  crest  of  the  hills,  and  are  generally  neat  and  tasteful,  and 
often  very  handsome  in  appearance.  The  principal  building  is  the 
Court  House,  a  handsome  structure  of  white  marble,  which  forms  the 
principal  object  in  any  view  of  the  city.  The  city  contains  5  churches, 
2  newspaper  offices,  and  several  schools.  Its  public  school  is  the  beet 
in  the  State.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  12,443. 

Vicksburg  is  the  most  important  commercial  town  in  the  State.  It 
has  direct  railway  communication  with  the  North  and  West,  and  a 
railway  is  in  progress  from  De  Soto  directly  opposite  the  city  to 
Shreveport,  La.,  and  Marshal,  Texas.  It  carries  on  a  large  river 
trade,  and  previous  to  the  war  about  125,000  bales  of  cotton  were 


694  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

shipped  from  this  city  to  New  Orleans.    The  most  of  this  was  brought 
into  the  city  by  the  railway.     It  is  slowly  recovering  this  trade. 

Vicksburg  was  settled  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century,  and 
was  named  from  Mr.  Vick,  one  of  the  original  settlers.  It  was  in- 
corporated as  a  town  in  1825,  and  as  a  city  in  1836.  At  an  early 
period  of  the  civil  war,  it  was  fortified  by  the  Confederates,  and  was 
their  principal  stronghold  on  the  Mississippi  River.  On  the  4th  of 
July,  1863,  it  was  surrendered  to  the  United  States  army  under  Gen- 
eral Grant,  after  one  of  the  most  memorable  defences  on  record.  The 
city  suffered  greatly  during  the  siege,  and  after  the  close  of  the  war 
the  entire  lower  part  was  nearly  destroyed  by  fire.  Since  then,  it  has 
been  rebuilt  on  a  handsome  scale.  It  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  and 
most  cultivated  cities  in  the  South,  and  one  of  the  most  enterprising. 

MISCELLANIES. 
EXTERMINATION    OF    THE    NATCHEZ    INDIANS. 

This  remarkable  tribe,  the  most  civilized  of  all  the  original  inhabitants  of  the 
States,  dwelt  in  the  vicinity  of  the  present  city  of  Natchez. 

Their  religion,  in  some  respects,  resembled  that  of  the  fire-worshippers  of 
Persia.  Fire  was  the  emblem  of  their  divinity ;  the  sun  was  their  god  :  their 
chiefs  were  called  u  suns,"  and  their  king  was  called  the  "  Great  Sun."  In  their 
principal  temple  a  perpetual  fire  was  kept  burning  by  the  ministering  priest,  who 
likewise  offered  sacrifices  of  the  first  fruits  of  the  chase.  In  extreme  cases,  they 
offered  sacrifices  of  infant  children,  to  appease  the  wrath  of  the  deity.  When 
Iberville  was  there,  one  of  the  temples  was  struck  by  lightning  and  set  on  fire. 
The  keeper  of  the  fane  solicited  the  squaws  to  throw  their  little  ones  into  the  fire 
to  appease  the  angry  divinity,  and  four  infants  were  thus  sacrificed  before  the 
French  could  prevail  on  them  to  desist  from  the  horrid  rites. 

After  Iberville  reached  the  Natchez  tribe,  the  Great  Sun,  or  king  of  the  con- 
federacy, having  heard  of  the  approach  of  the  French  commandant,  determined 
to  pay  him  a  visit  in  person.  As  he  advanced  to  the  quarters  of  Iberville,  he 
was  borne  upon  the  shoulders  of  some  of  his  men,  and  attended  by  a  great  retinra 
of  his  people.  He  bade  Iberville  a  hearty  welcome,  and  showed  him  the  most 
marked  attention  and  kindness  during  his  stay.  A  treaty  of  friendship  wras  con- 
cluded, with  permission  to  build  a  fort  and  to  establish  a  trading-post  among 
them  ;  which  was,  however,  deferred  for  many  years. 

A  few  stragglers  soon  after  took  up  their  abode  among  the  Natchez ;  but  no 
regular  settlement  was  made  until  1716,  when  Bienville,  Governor  of  Louisiana, 
erected  Fort  Rosalie,  which  is  supposed  to  have  stood  near  the  eastern  limit  of 
the  present  city  of  Natchea. 

Grand  or  Great  Sun,  the  chief  of  the  Natchez,  was  at  first  the  friend  of  the 
whites,  until  the  overbearing  disposition  of  one  man  brought  destruction  on  the 
whole  colony.  The  residence  of  the  Great  Sun  was  a  beautiful  village,  called 
the  White  Apple.  This  village  spread  over  a  space  of  nearly  3  miles  in  extent, 
and  stood  about  12  miles  south  of  the  fort,  near  the  mouth  of  Second  Creek,  and 


MISSISSIPPI,  695 

3  miles  east  of  the  Mississippi.  M.  de  Chopai't,  the  commandant,  was  guilty  of 
great  injustice  toward  the  Indians,  and  went  so  far  as  to  command  the  Great  Sun 
to  leave  the  village  of  his  ancestors,  as  he  wanted  the  ground  for  his  own  pur- 
poses. The  Great  Sun,  finding  Chopart  deaf  to  all  his  entreaties,  formed  a  plot 
to  rid  his  country  of  the  tyrant  who  oppressed  them.  Previous  to  the  tragedy, 
the  Sieur  de  Mace,  ensign  of  the  garrison,  received  advice  of  the  intention  of  the 
Natchez,  through  a  young  Indian  girl  who  loved  him.  She  told  him,  crying, 
that  her  nation  intended  to  massacre  the  French.  Amazed  at  this  story,  he  ques- 
tioned his  mistress.  Her  simple  answers,  and  her  tender  tears,  left  him  no  room 
to  doubt  of  the  plot.  He  informed  Chopart  of  it,  who  forthwith  put  him  under 
arrest  for  giving  a  false  alarm.  The  following  is  from  "  Monette's  History  of  the 
Valley  of  the  Mississippi :  " 

"At  length  the  fatal  day  arrived.  It  was  November  29th,  1729.  Early  in  the 
morning  Great  Sun  repaired,  with  a  few  chosen  warriors,  to  Fort  Rosalie,  and 
all  were  well  armed  with  knives  and  other  concealed  weapons. 

"The  company  had  recently  sent  up  a  large  supply  of  powder  and  lead,  and 
provisions  for  the  use  of  the  post.  The  Indians  had  recourse  to  stratagem  to  pro- 
cure a  supply  of  ammunition,  pretending  that  they  were  preparing  for  a  great 
hunting  excursion.  Before  they  set  out,  they  wished  to  purchase  a  supply  of 
ammunition,  and  they  had  brought  corn  and  poultry  to  barter  for  powder  a^id 
lead.  Having  placed  the  garrison  off  their  guard,  a  number  of  Indians  were  per- 
mitted to  enter  the  fort,  and  others  were  distributed  about  the  company's  ware- 
house. Upon  a  certain  signal  from  the  Great  Sun,  the  Indians  immediately  drt.w 
their  concealed  weapons,  and  commenced  the  carnage  by  one  simultaneous  and 
furious  massacre  of  the  garrison,  and  all  who  were  in  and  near  the  warehouse. 

"Other  parties,  distributed  through  the  contiguous  settlements,  carried  on  the 
bloody  work  in  every  house  as  soon  as  the  smoke  was  seen  to  rise  from  the  houses 
near  the  fort. 

"The  massacre  commenced  at  9  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  before  noon  tlie 
whole  of  the  male  population  of  the  French  colony  on  St.  Catharine  (consisting 
of  about  700  souls)  were  sleeping  the  sleep  of  death.  The  slaves  were  spared  for 
the  service  of  the  victors,  and  the  females  and  children  were  reserved  as  prison- 
ers of  war.  Chopart  fell  among  the  first  victims  ;  and,  as  the  chiefs  disdained  to 
stain  their  hands  with  his  despised  blood,  he  was  dispatched  by  the  hand  of  a 
common  Indian.  Two  mechanics,  a  tailor,  and  a  carpenter  were  spared,  because 
they  might  be  useful  to  the  Indians. 

"While  the  massacre  was  progressing,  the  Great  Sun  seated  himself  in  the 
spacious  warehouse  of  the  company,  and,  with  apparent  unconcern  and  com- 
placency, sat  and  smoked  his  pipe  while  his  warriors  were  depositing  the  heads 
of  the  French  garrison  in  a  pyramid  at  his  feet.  The  head  of  Chopart  was  placed 
in  the  centre,  surmounting  those  of  his  officers  and  soldiers.  So  soon  as  the 
warriors  informed  the  Great  Sun  that  the  last  Frenchman  had  ceased  to  live,  he 
commanded  the  pillage  to  commence.  The  negro  slaves  were  employed  in 
bringing  out  the  plunder  for  distribution.  The  powder  and  military  stores  were 
reserved  for  public  use  in  future  emergencies. 

"  While  the  ardent  spirits  remained,  the  day  and  the  night  alike  presented  one 
continued  scene  of  savage  triumph  and  drunken  revelry.  With  horrid  yells  they 
spent  their  orgies  in  dancing  over  the  mangled  bodies  of  their  enemies,  which  lay 
strewed  in  every  quarter  where  they  had  fallen  in  the  general  carnage.  Here, 
unburied,  they  remained  a  prey  for  dogs  and  hungry  vultures.  Every  vestige 
of  the  houses  and  dwellings  in  all  the  settlements  were  reduced  to  ashes. 


696  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"  Two  soldiers  only,  who  happened  to  be  absent  in  the  woods  at  the  time  of 
the  massacre,  escaped  to  bear  the  melancholy  tidings  to  New  Orleans.  As  they 
approached  the  fort  and  heard  the  deafening  yells  of  the  savages,  and  saw  the 
columns  of  smoke  and  flame  ascending  from  the  buildings,  they  well  judged  the 
fate  of  their  countrymen.  They  concealed  themselves  until  they  could  procure  a 
boat  or  canoe  to  descend  the  river  to  New  Orleans,  where  they  arrived  a  few 
days  afterward,  and  told  the  sad  story  of  the  colony  on  the  St.  Catharine. 

"  The  same  fate  was  shared  by  the  colony  on  the  Yazoo,  near  Fort  St.  Peter, 
and  by  those  on  the  Washita,  at  Sicily  Island,  and  near  the  present  town  of 
Monroe.  Dismay  and  terror  were  spread  over  every  settlement  in  the  province. 
New  Orleans  was  filled  with  mourning  and  sadness  for  the  fate  of  friends  and 
countrymen. 

"The  whole  number  of  victims  slain  in  this  massacre  amounted  to  more  than 
200  men,  besides  a  few  women  and  some  negroes,  who  attempted  to  defend  their 
masters.  Ninety-two  women  and  155  children  were  taken  prisoners.  Among 
the  victims  were  Father  Poisson,  the  Jesuit  missionary  ;  Laloire,  the  principal 
agent  of  the  company  ;  M.  Kollys  and  Son,  who  had  purchased  M.  Hubert's  in- 
terest, and  had  just  arrived  to  take  possession." 

When  the  news  of  this  terrible  disaster  reached  New  Orleans,  the  French  com- 
menced a  war  of  extermination  against  the  Natchez.  The  tribe  eventually  were 
driven  across  the  Mississippi,  and  finally  scattered  and  extirpated.  The  Great 
Sun  and  his  principal  war  chiefs,  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  French,  were 
shipped  to  St.  Domingo  and  sold  as  slaves.  Some  of  the  poor  prisoners  were 
treated  with  excessive  cruelty  ;  four  of  the  men  and  two  of  the  women  were  pub- 
licly burned  to  death  at  New  Orleans.  Some  Tonica  Indians,  who  had  brought 
down  a  Natchez  woman,  whom  they  had  discovered  in  the  woods,  were  allowed 
to  execute  her  in  the  same  manner.  Th%unfortunate  woman  was  led  forth  to  a 
platform  erected  near  the  levee,  and,  surrounded  by  the  whole  population,  was 
slowly  consumed  by  the  flames !  She  supported  her  tortures  with  stoical  forti- 
tude, not  shedding  a  tear.  tt  On  the  contrary,"  says  Gayarre,  "she  upbraided 
her  torturers  with  their  want  of  skill,  flinging  at  them  every  opprobrious  epithet 
she  could  think  of." 

The  scattered  remnants  of  the  tribe  sought  an  asylum  among  the  Chickasaws 
and  other  tribes  who  were  hostile  to  the  French.  Since  that  time,  the  individu- 
ality of  the  Natchez  tribe  has  been  swallowed  up  in  the  nations  with  whom  they 
were  incorporated.  Yet  no  tribe  has  left  so  proud  a  memorial  of  their  courage, 
their  independent  spirit,  and  their  contempt  of  death  in  defence  of  their  rights 
and  liberties.  The  city  of  Natchez  is  their  monument,  standing  upon  the  field 
of  their  glory.  Such  is  the  brief  history  of  the  Natchez  Indians,  who  are  now 
considered  extinct.  In  refinement  and  intelligence  they  were  equal,  if  not  su- 
perior, to  any  other  tribe  north  of  Mexico.  In  courage  and  stratagem  they  were 
inferior  to  none.  Their  form  was  noble  and  commanding  ;  their  stature  was  sel- 
dom under  6  feet,  and  their  persons  were  straight  and  athletic.  Their  counte- 
nance indicated  more  intelligence  than  is  commonly  found  in  savages.  The  head 
was  compressed  from  the  os  frontis  to  the  occiput,  so  that  the  forehead  appeared 
high  and  retreating,  while  the  occiput  was  compressed  almost  in  a  line  with  the 
neck  and  shoulders.  This  peculiarity,  as  well  as  their  straight,  erect  form,  is 
ascribed  to  the  pressure  of  bandages  during  infancy.  Some  of  the  remaining  in- 
dividuals of  the  Natchez  tribe  were  in  the  town  of  Natchez  as  late  as  the  year 
1782,  or  more  than  half  a  century  after  the  Natchez  massacre. 


MISSISSIPPI.  697 


MASON,   THE    OUTLAW. 

Among  the  incidents  in  the  early  history  of  the  Mississippi  Territory  was  the 
violent  death  of  the  notorious  robber,  Mason  This  fearless  bandit  had  become 
the  terror  of  the  routes  from  New  Orleans  and  Natchez  through  the  Indian  na- 
tions. After  the  organization  of  the  Territorial  Government,  and  the  opening  of 
roads  through  the  wilderness  to  Tennessee,  the  return  of  traders,  supercargoes, 
and  boatmen  to  the  Northern  settlements,  with  the  proceeds  of  their  voyage,  was 
on  foot  and  on  horseback,  in  parties  for  mutual  protection,  through  the  Indian 
nations  ;  and  often  rich  treasures  of  specie  were  packed  on  mules  and  horses  over 
these  long  and  toilsome  journeys.  Nor  was  it  a  matter  of  surprise,  in  a  dreary 
wilderness,  that  bandits  should  infest  such  a  route.  It  was  in  the  year  1802, 
when  all  travel  and  intercourse  from  New  Orleans  and  the  Mississippi  Territory 
was  necessarily  by  way  of  this  solitary  trace,  or  by  the  slow-ascending  barge  and 
keel,  that  Mason  made  his  appearance  in  the  Mississippi  Territory. 

Long  accustomed  to  robbery  and  murder  upon  the  Lower  Ohio,  during  the 
Spanish  dominion  on  the  Mississippi,  and  pressed  by  the  rapid  approach  of  the 
American  population,  he  deserted  the  u  Cave  in  the  Rock,"  on  the  Ohio,  and  be- 
gan to  infest  the  great  Natchez  Trace,  where  the  rich  proceeds  of  the  river  trade 
were  the  tempting  prize,  and  where  he  soon  became  the  terror  of  every  peaceful 
traveller  through  the  wilderness.  Associated  with  him  were  his  two  sons  and  a 
few  other  desperate  miscreants  ;  and  the  name  of  Mason  and  his  band  was  known 
and  dreaded  from  the  morasses  of  the  southern  frontier  to  the  silent  shades  of  the 
Tennessee  River.  The  outrages  of  Mason  became  more  frequent  and  sanguinary. 
One  day  found  him  marauding  on  the  banks  of  the  Pearl,  against  the  life  and 
fortune  of  the  trader  ;  and,  before  pursuit  was  organized,  the  hunter,  attracted  by 
the  descending  sweep  of  the  solitary  vulture,  learned  the  story  of  another  robbery 
and  murder  on  the  remote  shores  of  the  Mississippi.  Their  depredations  became 
at  last  so  frequent  and  daring,  that  the  people  of  the  territory  were  driven  to 
adopt  measures  for  their  apprehension.  But  such  was  the  knowledge  of  the  wil- 
derness possessed  by  the  wily  bandit,  and  such  his  untiring  vigilance  and  activity, 
that  for  a  time  he  baffled  every  attempt  for  his  capture. 

Treachery  at  last,  however,  effected  what  stratagem,  enterprise,  and  courage 
had  in  vain  attempted.  A  citizen  of  great  respectability,  passing  with  his  sons 
through  the  wilderness,  was  plundered  by  the  bandits.  Their  lives  were,  how- 
ever, spared,  and  they  returned  to  the  settlement.  Public  feeling  was  now  ex- 
cited, and  the  Governor  of  the  Territory  found  it  necessary  to  act.  Governor 
Claiborne  accordingly  offered  a  liberal  reward  for  the  robber,  Mason,  dead  or 
alive.  The  proclamation  was  widely  distributed,  and  a  copy  of  it  reached  Mason 
himself,  who  indulged  in  much  merriment  on  the  occasion.  Two  of  his  band, 
however,  tempted  by  the  large  reward,  concerted  a  plan  by  which  they  might 
obtain  it.  An  opportunity  soon  occurred ;  and  while  Mason,  in  company  with 
the  two  conspirators,  was  counting  out  some  ill-gotten  plunder,  a  tomahawk  was 
buried  in  his  brain.  His  head  was  severed  from  his  body  and  borne  in  triumph 
to  Washington,  then  the  seat  of  the  Territorial  Government. 

The  head  of  Mason  was  recognized  by  many,  and  identified  by  all  who  read 
the  proclamation,  as  the  head  entirely  corresponded  with  the  description  given 
of  certain  scars  and  peculiar  marks.  Some  delay,  however,  occurred  in  paying 
over  the  reward,  owing  to  the  slender  state  of  the  treasury.  Meantime,  a  great 


698  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

assemblage  from  all  the  adjacent  country  had  taken  place,  to  view  the  grim  and 
ghastly  head  of  the  robber  chief.  They  were  not  less  inspired  with  curiosity  to 
see  and  converse  with  the  individual  whose  prowess  had  delivered  the  country 
of  so  great  a  scourge.  Among  those  spectators  were  the  two  young  men,  who, 
unfortunately  for  these  traitors,  recognized  them  as  companions  of  Mason  in  the 
robbery  of  their  father. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  say  that  treachery  met  its  just  reward,  and  that  justice  was 
also  satisfied.  The  reward  was  not  only  withheld,  but  the  robbers  were  im- 
prisoned, and,  on  the  full  evidence  of  their  guilt,  condemned  and  executed  at 
Greenville,  Jefferson  county. 

The  band  of  Mason,  being  thus  deprived  of  their  leader  and  two  of  his  most 
efficient  men,  dispersed  and  fled  the  country.  Thus  terminated  the  terrors  which 
had  infested  the  route  through  the  Indian  nations,  known  to  travellers  as  the 
"  Natchez  and  Nashville  Trace." 


LOUISIANA. 


Area, 

Population  in  1860, 

(Whites,  357,629. 

Population  in  1870, 


Negroes,  350,373) 


41,346  Square  Miles. 
708,002 

726,915 


THE  State  of  Louisiana  is  situated  between  29°  and  33°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  88°  50'  and  94°  20'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Arkansas  and  Mississippi,  on  the  east  by  Mississippi  and 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  on  the  south  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  on  the 
west  by  TV*:as.  Its  extreme  length  from  east  to  west  is  about  292 
miles,  aii  .  its  extreme  width  from  north  to  south  about  250  miles. 


TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  of  the  entire  State  is  low  and  flat,  its  highest  point 
being  less  than  200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
southern  portion  is  so  low  that  it  is  always  subject  to  overflows,  when 
the  rivers  are  full.  In  the  northern  part,  the  country  is  slightly 
rolling,  except  in  the  northwest,  where  it  is  converted  into  a  series 
of  extensive  marshes  by  the  Red  River  and  its  tributaries. 

The  Gulf  coast  is  extensive,  and  is  cut  up  into  innumerable  bays, 
lakes,  bayous,  and  inlets.  The  principal  are,  Lake  Borgne  in  the 
southeast,  which  is,  strictly  speaking,  a  bay  through  which  Lake 
Pontchartrain  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Gulf.  Black  Lake  Bay 
lies  south  of  this.  On  the  southern  coast  are  (beginning  on  the  east) 
West,  Barataria,  Timbalier,  Terre  Bonne,  Pelto  Lake,  Caillou,  Atcha- 
falaya,  Cote  Blanche,  Vermilion  bays,  and  Mermenteau,  Calcasieu 
and  Sabine  lakes.  The  majority  of  these  afford  excellent  harbors. 
They  are  principally  the  extensions  of  the  rivers  with  which  lower 

699 


700  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Louisiana  is  cut  up.  A  number  of  low  islands  lie  along  the  coast. 
Some  of  them  are  productive,  while  others  are  worthless. 

Small  lakes  are  very  numerous  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State, 
the  whole  of  which  is  more  or  less  marshy. 

Lakes  Maurepas  and  Pontchartrain  lie  in  the  southeast  part  of  the 
State,  near  the  city  of  New  Orleans.  Lake  Maurepas  is  but  an 
extension  of  the  Amite  River  and  flows  into  Lake  Pontchartrain, 
which  in  its  turn  pours  its  waters  through  Lake  Borgne  into  the 
Gulf.  Lake  Pontchartrain  is  about  40  miles  long  and  from  8  to  24 
miles  wide,  and  has  a  maximum  depth  of  from  16  to  20  feet.  It  is 
navigable  for  steamers,  and  is  connected  with  New  Orleans  by  a 
canal.  Several  pleasant  towns  lie  on  its  shores. 

The  Mississippi  River,  already  described,  forms  the  eastern  bound- 
ary of  the  northern  half  of  this  State,  as  far  as  the  southern  line  of 
the  State  of  Mississippi.  It  then  flows  southeast  through  the  centre 
of  lower  Louisiana,  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  the 
extreme  southeast  corner  of  the  State.  It  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Red  River  just  above  the  Mississippi  line,  and  pours  its  own  flood 
into  the  Gulf  through  several  channels  besides  its  own  mouths. 
These  channels  are  called  bayous,  and  leave  the  main  stream  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Red  River,  and  west  of  the  Mississippi.  They 
empty  into  the  Gulf  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  and  are  almost 
all  of  them  navigable  for  steamers.  In  this  way  New  Orleans  has 
abundant  direct  water  communication  with  the  southwest  parishes. 
The  principal  of  these  are  the  Atchafalaya  and  Lafourche  rivers  or 
bayous,  the  former  250,  and  the  latter  150  miles  long.  The  former 
is  more  properly  an  outlet  of  the  Red  than  of  the  Mississippi,  and  is 
believed  to  have  been  the  original  channel  of  the  Red  River.  The 
Red  River,  already  described,  flows  across  the  State  from  northwest  to 
southeast.  It  is  navigable  for  steamers  to  the  border  of  Arkansas. 
Its  principal  branch,  the  Washita,  flows  into  it  near  its  mouth,  and  is 
500  miles  long.  It  is  navigable  for  large  steamers  to  Camden  in 
Arkansas,  300  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  Washita,  in  its  turn,  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  the  Tensas,  a  short  distance  above  its  mouth. 
This  river  is  250  miles  long,  and  navigable  for  150  miles.  The  Teche 
River,  or  Bayou,  commences  a  short  distance  southeast  of  Alexandria, 
on  the  Red  River,  and  flows  southeast  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It 
is  about  200  miles  long,  is  very  tortuous,  and  flows  through  a  low, 
flat  prairie  region  in  which  cotton  and  sugar  grow  to  great  perfection. 
It  is  navigable  at  high  water  for  nearly  its  entire  length.  The  Cal- 


LOUISIANA.  701 

casieu  River,  about  250  miles  long,  drains  the  southwest  part  of  the 
State.  It  is  not  navigable.  The  Sabine  River,  which  rises  in  Texas, 
and  has  a  length  of  about  500  miles,  forms  a  part  of  the  western 
boundary  of  Louisiana,  and  flows  into  Sabine  Lake.  It  is  shallow  at 
its  mouth,  and  navigable  only  for  very  small  steamers  at  high  water. 

MINERALS. 

"  In  the  soil  and  timber  are  to  be  found  the  chief  resources  of  this 
State,  but  few  minerals,  except  salt,  having  as  yet  been  developed  or 
discovered,  though  some  coal,  iron,  and  copper  are  reported  to  exist 
in  Union  parish.  Timber  is  abundant  in  all  parts  of  the  State, 
embracing  many  varieties  of  oak,  ash,  cottonwood,  cypress,  gum,  elm, 
sycamore,  pecan,  hackberry,  pine,  etc.,  and  presenting  great  induce- 
ments for  development,  some  of  the  pine  forests  capable  of  producing 
quantities  of  turpentine.  On  one  of  the  islands  within  the  limits  of 
St.  Mary's  parish — Petite  Anse  or  Salt  Island — there  exists  an 
immense  bed  of  salt.  By  boring,  parties  have  proved  that  the  bed 
is  half  a  mile  square,  and  it  may  extend  a  mile  or  more.  They  have 
gone  thirty-eight  feet  into  the  solid  salt,  and  find  no  signs  of  the 
bottom  of  the  stratum.  The  surface  is  about  on  a  level  with  tide-water, 
and  the  earth  covers  the  salt  from  eleven  to  thirty  feet.  On  the  sur- 
face of  the  salt  they  found  a  soil  like  that  of  the  surrounding  marshes, 
and  above  this  sedge  or  marsh  grass  in  a  good  state  of  preservation. 
Above  the  latter  the  soil  appears  to  be  the  workings  of  the  hill-sides 
above." 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  mild  as  a  general  rule,  but  the  winters  are  severer 
than  those  of  the  Atlantic  States  lying  along  the  same  parallel.  The 
summers  are  long,  hot,  and  dry,  and  cause  a  poisonous  exhalation 
from  the  marshy  soil  which  is  the  fruitful  source  of  yellow  fever. 
The  spring  is  early  and  pleasant. 

SOIL  AND   PRODUCTIONS. 

The  best  soil  is  along  the  rivers  and  in  the  marshy  district. 
Almost  all  the  land  in  the  lower  part  of  the  State  is  fertile,  but  in  the 
northern  part,  away  from  the  rivers,  it  is  poor.  The  swamp  lands 
are  easily  drained,  and  are  almost  inexhaustible.  Tropical  fruits  grow 
well  in  the  southern  parishes,  but  neither  the  orange  nor  the  sugar- 
cane thrives  above  the  31st  parallel  of  north  latitude,  which  marks 
the  southern  boundary  of  the  western  part  of  the  State  of  Mississippi. 
In  the  northern  part  the  fruits  of  the  Middle  States  thrive. 


702 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


GATHERING  SUGAR-CANE. 

The  Report  of  the  Bureau  of  Agriculture  for  1868  thus  speaks 
of  this  State : 

"Cotton,  sugar,  corn,  and  potatoes  are  the  principal  crops  in 
Louisiana,  and  before  the  war  the  cultivation  of  the  first  two  named 
was  very  profitable,  but  our  correspondents  uniformly  represent  the 
production  of  cotton  as  ruinous  to  the  planter  during  the  past  year. 
Jackson  parish  reports  two  hundred  pounds  of  lint  cotton  to  the  acre, 
fifteen  bushels  of  corn,  one  hundred  and  fifty  bushels  of  sweet  potatoes, 
and  twenty  bushels  of  peas.  Tensas  parish,  one  to  one  and  a  half 
bales  to  the  acre  in  good  season,  fifty  to  seventy-five  bushels  of  corn  ; 
in  cultivation,  nine  acres  of  cotton  allotted  to  one  laborer,  and  five 
acres  of  corn.  In  Union  parish  about  six  bales  of  cotton  to  the  hand 
was  expected  before  the  war.  In  Carroll  parish  cotton  will  produce 


LOUISIANA.  703 

six  hundred  pounds  lint  to  the  acre  when  newly  cultivated,  and  a 
fair  laborer  can  make  eight  bales  of  cotton  and  one  hundred  bushels 
of  corn,  yielding  about  $500  to  the  hand ;  but  under  the  present 
system  the  average  is  two  and  a  half  bales  cotton  and  twenty-five 
bushels  corn  to  the  hand.  Prior  to  the  war  the  parish  of  Rapides 
produced  from  30,000  to  40,000  bales  cotton,  15,000  to  18,000  hogs- 
heads sugar,  and  30,000  barrels  molasses,  but  the  production  has 
much  deteriorated,  though  with  the  labor  and  capital  at  command,  the 
capabilities  are  still  as  great.  In  the  southern  tier  of  parishes  sugar, 
rice,  and  tobacco  are  made  specialties,  and  fruits  are  extensively 
grown,  with  great  inducements  for  the  increase  of  the  latter  produc- 
tion. 

"Louisiana  possesses  great  capabilities  for  fruit  culture,  and  the 
climate  and  soil  present  strong  inducements  to  persons  desiring  to 
engage  in  such  production.  In  St.  Mary's  parish  they  have  fruits 
of  various  kinds  from  April  to  November:  '  The  Japan  plum  grows 
all  winter  and  ripens  in  April ;  dewberries  also  ripen  in  April,  and 
grow  in  abundance ;  strawberries,  blackberries,  and  mulberries  ripen 
in  May;  plums  in  June;  peaches,  quinces,  and  figs  in  July;  and 
grapes  and  apples  in  August.  The  muscadine,  a  species  of  scupper- 
nong,  grows  wild,  and  ripens  in  August;  pears  ripen  in  August,  and 
grow  in  great  perfection;  oranges  ripen  in  October,  and  usually 
remain  good  on  the  trees  till  December;  bananas,  limes,  and  lemons 
ripen  in  October.'  The  yield  of  oranges  per  acre  is  enormous.  Our 
correspondent  writes  that  e  it  is  usual  to  plant  about  one  hundred  trees 
to  the  acre  below  New  Orleans  on  the  river.  Some  orchards  yield 
from  $10,000  to  $20,000  annually.  A  full-grown  tree  will  bear  1000 
oranges,  and  a  single  tree  has  been  known  to  yield  5000  oranges. 
Trees  commence  bearing  when  five  years  old,  when  properly  man- 
aged/ What  we  quote  in  regard  to  the  capabilities  of  this  parish 
may  be  said,  with  slight  variation,  of  most  of  the  lower  counties  of 
the  State,  while  in  the  more  northern  regions  many  of  the  fruits 
named  grow  in  perfection,  and  in  some  localities  the  apple  succeeds 
well.  Our  Rapides  reporter  writes :  '  I  have  a  second  crop  of  apples 
this  year.  They  are  hard,  small,  and  poor,  though  they  are  eaten/ 

"  In  Washington  parish  a  small  orchard,  chiefly  peaches,  in  one 
season  yielded  a  profit  of  $4000,  the  fruit  being  early  and  within  close 
proximity  to  New  Orleans  markets.  Our  East  Feliciana  correspon- 
dent writes :  '  This  is  one  of  the  finest  fruit  regions  in  the  world. 
Apples,  peaches,  pears,  quinces,  plums,  figs,  grapes,  berries,  etc.,  do 


104  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

well,  and  wild  blackberries  grow  in  great  abundance,  from  which 
a  superior  wine  is  made.  We  have,  as  yet,  but  few  orchards.  One 
man  this  season  sold  $600  worth  of  pears  from  fourteen  trees/ 
Though  but  little  attention  has  heretofore  been  given  to  fruit  culture, 
the  capabilities  of  the  State  are  so  evident,  and  the  inducements  so 
strong,  in  a  pecuniary  point  of  view,  that  the  production  must,  at  an 
early  day,  become  a  leading  interest  of  Louisiana." 

The  civil  war  laid  prostrate  the  agricultural  interests  of  the  State. 
The  plantations  in  many  cases  were  utterly  ruined.  The  levees  of  the 
rivers  were  cut  or  allowed  to  give  way,  and  many  of  the  finest  cotton 
and  sugar  fields  were  thus  converted  into  worthless  swamps.  It  will 
require  many  years  to  repair  these  losses.  The  returns  of  the  State 
are  as  follows  : 

Bushels  of  Indian  corn, 8,000,000 

Pounds  of  rice, 16,000,000 

Hlids  of  sugar,       85,000 

Gallons  of  molasses, 4,800.000 

Bales  of  cotton, 400,000 

Bushels  of  sweet  potatoes  ^  estimated),    ....  1,100,000 

Number  of  horses, •  .     .  65,000 

asses  and  mules, 64,000 

milch  cows,  .     .     .     .' 110,000 

sheep, 120,000 

swine, 340,000 

young  cattle, 210,000 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $16,000,000 

t 

MANUFACTURES  AND  COMMERCE. 

Little  attention  is  paid  to  manufactures.  In  1860  the  capital  in- 
vested in  them  amounted  to  $7,151,172. 

With  respect  to  its  commercial  advantages  the  State  is  unequalled 
by  any  portion  of  the  world.  The  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries 
bring  to  it  the  products  of  nearly  one  half  the  Union.  New  Orleans 
is  the  principal  port,  and  is  actively  engaged  in  trade  with  all  parts  of 
the  world.  In  1860  the  exports  of  Louisiana  amounted  to  $108,417,798, 
and  the  imports  to  $22,992,773.  In  spite  of  the  losses  of  the  war, 
they  were  as  follows  in  1870:  exports,  $107,657,042;  imports, 
$14,993,754. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  State  the  great  abundance  of  water  trans- 
portation does  away  with  the  necessity  for  many  railways.  In  1868 


LOUISIANA. 


705 


A  SCGAii-IIOUSE. 

there  were  539  miles  of  completed  railway  in  the  State,  constructed  at 
a  cost  of  about  $20,000,030.  A"  main  line  extends  north  through  Mis- 
sissippi to  the  States  of  the  East  and  West,  and  roads  are  in  construction 
from  a  point  opposite  to  Vicksburg,  Miss.,  to  Shreveport  and  north- 
eastern Texas,  and  from  Algiers  along  the  Gulf  coast  to  Galveston, 
Texas. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870  there  were  in  Louisiana  13  colleges,  with  over  1600  students; 
400  academies  and  other  schools,  with  about  25,000  pupils ;  and  1 78  pu  bl  ic 
schools,  with  over  25,000  pupils.  With  the  exception  of  the  schools  of 
New  Orleans,  nearly  all  the  educational  institutions  of  the  State  were 
destroyed  or  discontinued  by  the  war.  Since  the  return  of  peace, 
Centenary  College,  at  Jackson,  and  several  academies  and  private 
schools  have  been  reopened  with  success. 

The  new  Constitution  establishes  a  system  of  public  education,  and 
requires  that  at  least  one  free  public  school  shall  be  opened  in  each 
parish  in  the  State.  A  permanent  school  fund  is  established,  and  the 
Legislature  is  required  to  levy  taxes  for  the  support  of  the  schools. 
Appropriations  by  the  State  for  the  support,  assistance,  or  encourage- 
ment of  any  private  school  or  private  institution  of  learning,  whatso- 
ever, are  forbidden. 
45 


706  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

A  University,  with  collegiate,  law,  and  medical  departments,  is  es- 
tablished at  New  Orleans,  and  supported  in  part  by  the  State. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  has  but  a  few  charitable  institutions  of  its  own,  depending 
mainly  on  similar  establishments  in  the  city  of  New  Orleans,  to  the 
support  of  which  it  contributes. 

The  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Baton  Rouge,  the  old  capital.  It 
was  destroyed  during  the  war,  but  has  since  been  restored.  There 
were  342  males  and  12  females  confined  there  in  1870.  The  institu- 
tion is  supported  to  a  great  extent  by  the  labor  of  the  convicts,  who 
are  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton  and  woollen  goods.  Two 
hundred  looms,  with  the  necessary  machinery,  are  in  operation. 

EELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870  there  were  599  churches  in  Louisiana,  and  the  value  of 
church  property  was  $4,048,525.  The  greater  part  of  this  amount  is 
owned  in  New  Orleans.  In  the  rest  of  the  State  the  loss  was  heavy 
during  the  war. 

FINANCES. 

The  finances  of  Louisiana  are  in  a  very  unfortunate  condition.  The 
amount  of  the  public  debt  is  disputed,  but  the  State  Auditor  estimates 
it  at  $40,021,734,  inclusive  of  an  obligation  to  issue  about  $15,000,000 
worth  of  bonds.  The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year 
ending  November  30, 1870,  were  $6,537,959  ;  while  the  total  expendi- 
tures for  the  same  period  amounted  to  $7,050,636. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  Louisiana  was  adopted  by  the  people 
April  23d,  1868.  Every  male  person,  21  years  old,  born  in  the 
United  States,  or  naturalized,  without  respect  to  race,  color,  or  pre- 
vious condition,  who  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  in  the 
parish  ten  days,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections.  Criminals,  and 
certain  persons  concerned  in  the  Rebellion,  are  excluded  from  the 
franchise. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Auditor,  Treasurer,  Attorney-General,  and  a  Gen- 
eral Assembly,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (36  members,  elected  for  four 


LOUISIANA.  707 

years,  one-half  retiring  biennially)  and  a  House  of  Representatives 
(101  members,  elected  for  frvvo  years),  all  chosen  by  the  people.  The 
Governor  and  other  State  officers  are  elected  for  four  years. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  District  Court, 
Parish  Courts,  and  in  Justices  of  the  Peace.  The  Supreme  Court 
consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and  four  Associate  Justices,  appointed  by 
the  Governor,  by  and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate,  for 
a  period  of  eight  years.  Except  in  specified  cases,  this  court  has  ap- 
pellate jurisdiction  only.  The  judges  of  the  other  courts  are  chosen 
by  the  popular  vote. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  New  Orleans.  Previous  to 
the  war  Baton  Rouge  was  the  capital. 

The  State  is  divided  into  48  parishes. 

HISTORY. 

In  1691  La  Salle  discovered  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
and  took  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  France. 
In  1699  Iberville  attempted  to  form  a  settlement  along  the  lower 
Mississippi,  but  his  attempt  ended  in  the  establishment  of  the  Colony 
of  Biloxi,  in  the  present  State  of  Mississippi.  In  1712  Louis  XIV., 
of  France,  named  the  region  in  honor  of  himself,  and  granted  it  to 
M.  Crozat,  a  wealthy  capitalist,  who,  in  1717,  surrendered  his  charter 
to  the  Government,  complaining  that  he  had  not  been  properly  sup- 
ported by  the  authorities,  and  that  he  had  suffered  such  losses  in  at- 
tempting to  settle  the  province  as  almost  to  ruin  him.  In  1717  the 
famous  John  Law,  living  in  Paris,  obtained  a  charter  for  a  bank,  and 
for  a  Mississippi  company,  to  whom  the  king  granted  the  province. 
A  remarkable  financial  scheme  was  conceived  by  Law  in  connection 
with  these  grants,  and  for  a  while  carried  out  so  successfully  that  the 
stock  of  the  bank  went  up  to  six  hundred  times  its  par  value.  It 
finally  exploded,  however,  and  ruined  every  one  concerned  in  it, 
having  accomplished  nothing  but  the  settlement  of  New  Orleans,  in 
1717.  In  1732  Law's  company  surrendered  their  charter  to  the 
king,  who  declared  the  commerce  of  Louisiana  free  to  all  nations. 

In  1760  war  was  begun  between  Great  Britain  and  France,  and 
Canada  was  conquered  by  the  former  power.  Large  numbers  of 
Canadians  now  emigrated  to  Louisiana,  and  settled  in  the  country 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  founding  the  settlements  of  Attakapas,  Ope- 
lousas,  and  Avoyelles.  In  1762  France  ceded  her  possessions  in 


708  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Louisiana  west  of  the  Mississippi  to  Spain,  and  the  country  east  of 
that  river  to  England.  The  Spanish  authorities  soon  took  possession 
of  New  Orleans,  and  inaugurated  a  series  of  cruel  and  oppressive 
measures,  which  filled  the  French  settlers  with  dismay.  They  held 
the  province  during  the  American  Revolution,  and  towards  the  close 
of  the  war  the  Spanish  Governor  of  New  Orleans  captured  the  British 
garrison  at  Baton  Rouge.  The  treaty  of  1783  opened  the  navigation 
of  the  Mississippi  River  to  all  nations,  but  the  Spaniards  at  New 
Orleans  effectually  neutralized  this  concession  by  seizing  all  merchan- 
dize brought  to  that  city  in  any  but  Spanish  ships.  This  gave  rise  to 
a  long  and  vexatious  dispute  between  the  United  States  and  Spain, 
which  was  terminated  only  by  the  acquisition  of  Louisiana  by  the 
former  power.  The  manner  in  which  this  territory  passed  into  our 
hands,  is  thus  related  by  Bonner,  in  his  "History  of  Louisiana :" 

"  In  1763  Louisiana  was  ceded  to  Spain,  and  by  a  secret  article  in 
the  treaty  of  St.  Ildefonso,  concluded  in  1800,  that  power  ceded  it 
back  to  France.  Napoleon,  however,  wished  to  keep  this  cession 
secret  until  he  should  have — as  he  hoped  to  do — reduced  St.  Domingo 
to  submission.  Failing  in  this,  he  was  rendered  indifferent  to  his 
new  acquisition.  In  January,  1803,  he  sent  out  Laussat  as  prefect 
of  the  colony,  which  was  the  first  intimation  that  the  inhabitants  had 
of  the  transfer,  which  gave  them  great  joy. 

"On  being  informed  of  this  retrocession,  President  Jefferson  had 
dispatched  instructions  to  Robert  Livingston,  the  American  minister 
at  Paris,  to  represent  to  the  First  Consul  that  the  occupation  of  New 
Orleans  by  France  would  endanger  the  friendly  relations  between  the 
two  nations,  and,  perhaps,  even  oblige  the  United  States  to  make  com- 
mon cause  with  England  ;  as  the  possession  of  this  city  by  the  former, 
by  giving  her  the  command  of  the  Mississippi,  the  only  outlet  to  the 
produce  of  the  Western  States,  and  also  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  so  im- 
portant to  American  commerce,  would  render  it  almost  certain  that 
the  conflicting  interests  of  the  two  nations  would  lead  to  an  open  rup- 
ture. Mr.  Livingston  was  therefore  instructed  not  only  to  insist 
upon  the  free  navigation  of  the  Mississippi,  but  to  negotiate  for  the 
acquisition  of  New  Orleans  itself,  and  the  surrounding  territory ;  and 
Mr.  Monroe  was  appointed  with  full  powers  to  assist  him  in  the  nego- 
tiation. 

"  Bonaparte,  who  always  acted  promptly,  soon  came  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  what  he  could  not  defend,  he  had  better  dispose  of  on  the 
•best  terms ;  but  before  deciding,  he  summoned  two  of  his  ministers  in 
council,  on  the  10th  of  April,  1803,  and  thus  addressed  them: 


LOUISIANA.  709 

" ( I  am  fully  sensible  of  the  value  of  Louisiana,  and  it  was  my 
wish  to  repair  the  error  of  the  French  diplomatists  who  abandoned  it 
in  1763.  I  have  scarcely  recovered  it  before  I  run  the  risk  of  losing 
it;  but  if  I  am  obliged  to  give  it  up,  it  shall  hereafter  cost  more  to 
those  who  force  me  to  part  with  it,  than  to  those  to  whom  I  yield  it. 
The  English  have  despoiled  France  of  all  her  northern  possessions  in 
America,  and  now  they  covet  those  of  the  south.  I  am  determined 
that  they  shall  not  have  the  Mississippi.  Although  Louisiana  is  but 
a  trifle  compared  to  their  vast  possessions  in  other  parts  of  the  globf3, 
yet,  judging  from  the  vexation  they  have  manifested  on  seeing  it  re- 
turn to  the  power  of  France,  I  am  certain  that  their  first  object  will 
be  to  gain  possession  of  it.  They  will  probably  commence  the  war  in 
that  quarter.  They  have  twenty  vessels  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and 
our  affairs  in  St.  Domingo  are  daily  getting  worse,  since  the  death  of 
Le  Clerc.  The  conquest  of  Louisiana  might  be  easily  made,  and  I 
have  not  a  moment  to  lose  in  putting  it  out  of  their  reach.  I  am  not 
sure  but  that  they  have  already  begun  an  attack  upon  it*  Such  a 
measure  would  be  in  accordance  with  their  habits ;  and  in  their  place 
I  should  not  wait.  I  am  inclined,  in  order  to  deprive  them  of  all 
prospect  of  ever  possessing  it,  to  cede  it  to  the  United  States.  Indeed, 
I  can  hardly  say  that  I  cede  it,  for  I  do  not  yet  possess  it ;  and  if  I 
wait  but  a  short  time,  my  enemies  may  leave  me  nothing  but  an 
empty  title  to  grant  to  the  Republic  I  wish  to  conciliate.  They  only 
ask  for  one  city  of  Louisiana,  but  I  consider  the  whole  colony  as  lost ; 
and  I  believe  that,  in  the  hands  of  this  rising  power,  it  will  be  more 
useful  to  the  political,  and  even  the  commercial  interests  of  France, 
than  if  I  should  attempt  to  retain  it.  Let  me  have  both  your  opinions 
on  the  subject/ 

"  One  of  the  ministers,  Barbe  Marbois,  fully  approved  of  the  ces- 
sion, but  the  other  opposed  it.  They  debated  the  matter  for  a  long 
time,  and  Bonaparte  concluded  the  conference  without  making  his 
determination  known.  The  next  day,  however,  he  sent  for  Marbois, 
and  said  to  him  : 

*  The  season  for  deliberation  is  over ;  I  have  determined  to  re- 
nounce Louisiana.  I  shall  give  up  not  only  New  Orleans,  but  the 
whole  colony,  without  reservation.  That  I  do  not  undervalue  Louis- 
iana I  have  sufficiently  proved,  as  the  object  of  my  first  treaty  with 
Spain  was  to  recover  it.  But,  though  I  regret  parting  with  it,  I  am 
convinced  it  would  be  folly  to  persist  in  trying  to  keep  it.  I  commis- 
sion you,  therefore,  to  negotiate  this  affair  with  the  envoys  of  the 


710  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

United  States.  Do  not  wait  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Monroe,  but  go  this 
very  day  and  confer  with  Mr.  Livingston.  Remember,  however,  that 
I  need  ample  funds  for  carrying  on  the  war,  and  I  do  not  wish  to 
commence  it  by  levying  new  taxes.  For  the  last  century  France  and 
Spain  have  incurred  great  expense  in  the  improvement  of  Louisiana, 
for  which  her  trade  has  never  indemnified  them.  Large  sums  have 
been  advanced  to  different  companies,  which  have  never  returned  to 
the  treasury.  It  is  fair  that  I  should  require  repayment  for  these. 
Were  I  to  regulate  my  demands  by  the  importance  of  this  territory  to 
the  United  States,  they  would  be  unbounded ;  but,  being  obliged  to 
part  with  it,  I  shall  be  moderate  in  my  terms.  Still,  remember,  I 
must  have  50,000,000  francs,  and  I  will  not  consent  to  take  less.  I 
would  rather  make  some  desperate  effort  to  preserve  this  fine  country.' 

"  The  negotiations  commenced  that  very  day.  Mr.  Monroe  arrived 
at  Paris  on  the  12th  of  April,  and  the  two  representatives  of  the 
United  States,  after  holding  a  private  conference,  announced  that  they 
were  ready  to  treat  for  the  cession  of  the  entire  territory,  which  at 
first  Mr.  Livingston  had  hesitated  to  do,  believing  the  proposal  of  the 
First  Consul  to  be  only  a  device  to  gain  time. 

"On  the  30th  of  April,  1803,  the  treaty  was  signed.  The  United 
States  were  to  pay  $15,000,000  for  their  new  acquisition,  and  be  in- 
demnified for  some  illegal  captures ;  while  it  was  agreed  that  the  ves- 
sels and  merchandise  of  France  and  Spain  should  be  admitted  into  all 
the  ports  of  Louisiana,  free  of  duty,  for  12  years. 

"  Bonaparte  stipulated  in  favor  of  Louisiana  that  it  should,  as  soon 
as  possible,  be  incorporated  into  the  Union,  and  that  its  inhabitants 
should  enjoy  the  same  rights,  privileges,  and  immunities  as  other  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States ;  and  the  third  article  of  the  treaty,  securing 
to  them  these  benefits,  was  drawn  up  by  the  First  Consul  himself, 
who  presented  it  to  the  plenipotentiaries  with  these  words : 

" '  Make  it  known  to  the  people  of  Louisiana  that  we  regret  to  part 
with  them ;  that  we  have  stipulated  for  all  the  advantages  they  could 
desire;  and  that  France,  in  giving  them  up,  has  insured  to  them  the 
greatest  of  all.  They  could  never  have  prospered  under  any  Euro- 
pean government  as  they  will  when  they  become  independent.  But, 
•while  they  enjoy  the  privileges  of  liberty,  let  them  ever  remember 
that  they  are  French,  and  preserve  for  their  mother-country  that 
affection  which  a  common  origin  inspires/ 

"  The  completion  of  this  important  transaction  gave  equal  satisfac- 
tion to  both  parties.  1 1  consider/  said  Livingston,  '  that  from  this 


LOUISIANA.  711 

day  the  United  States  takes  rank  with  the  first  powers  of  Europe,  and 
now  she  is  entirely  escaped  from  the  power  of  England ; '  and  Bona- 
parte expressed  a  similar  sentiment  in  these  words :  '  By  this  cession 
of  territory  I  have  secured  the  power  of  the  United  States,  and  given 
to  England  a  maritime  rival,  who,  at  some  future  time,  will  humble 
her  pride/  These  words  appeared  prophetic  when  the  troops  of 
Britain,  a  few  years  after,  met  so  signal  an  overthrow  on  the  plains 
of  Louisiana. 

"  The  boundaries  of  the  colony  had  never  been  clearly  defined,  and 
one  of  Bonaparte's  ministers  drew  his  attention  to  his  obscurity.  '  No 
matter/  said  he,  '  if  there  was  no  uncertainty,  it  would,  perhaps,  be 
good  policy  to  leave  some;'  and,  in  fact,  the  Americans,  interpreting 
to  their  own  advantage  this  uncertainty,  some  few  years  after  seized 
upon  the  extensive  territory  of  Baton  Rouge,  which  was  in  dispute 
between  them  and  the  Spaniards. 

"On  the  30th  of  November,  1803,  Laussat  took  possession  of  the 
country,  when  Casa  Calvo  and  Salcedo,  the  Spanish  commissioners, 
presented  to  him  the  keys  of  the  city,  over  which  the  tri-colored  flag 
floated  but  for  a  short  time.  The  colony  had  been  under  the  rule  of 
Spain  for  a  little  more  than  34  years. 

"On  the  20th  of  December,  in  the  same  year,  General  "Wilkinson 
and  Governor  Claiborne,  who  were  jointly  commissioned  to  take  pos- 
session of  the  country  for  the  United  States,  made  their  entry  into 
New  Orleans  at  the  head  of  the  American  troops.  Laussat-  gave  up 
his  command,  and  the  star-spangled  banner  supplanted  the  tri-colored 
flag  of  France." 

In  1804,  Louisiana  was  erected  into  a  Territory  by  Congress.  In 
1810,  the  Spanish  post  at  Baton  Rouge  was  seized  by  the  United 
States  forces  under  General  Wilkinson,  and  the  territory  connected 
with  it  added  to  Louisiana,  which  in  1812,  was  admitted  into  the 
Union  as  a  State. 

During  the  second  war  with  England,  the  British  made  several 
attempts  to  get  possession  of  the  mouths  of  the  Mississippi,  but  were 
finally  and  decisively  defeated  on  the  plains  of  Chalmette,  below  New 
Orleans,  on  the  8th  of  January,  1815,  by  an  American  force  under 
General  Andrew  Jackson. 

The  territory  purchased  from  France  by  the  Louisiana  treaty  is 
now  occupied  by  the  States  of  Louisiana,  Arkansas,  Missouri,  Iowa, 
Minnesota,  Kansas,  Nebraska,  and  Oregon,  and  the  Territories  of 
Dacota,  Colorado,  Utah,  Wyoming,  Montana,  Idaho,  and  Washing- 
ton. The  reader  will  thus  see  the  importance  of  the  transaction. 


712  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

On  the  26th  of  January,  1861,  the  State  withdrew  from  the  Union 
and  joined  the  Southern  Confederacy.  One  of  the  first  objects  of  the 
Federal  Government  was  to  secure  the  city  of  New  Orleans,  which 
was  captured  early  in  1862  by  the  fleet  of  Admiral  Farragut.  From 
this  time  the  lower  part  of  the  State  was  more  or  less  overrun  by  the 
forces  of  the  North  and  South.  The  country  along  the  rivers  suffered 
terribly.  In  1863,  the  Confederate  stronghold  at  Port  Hudson,  on 
the  Mississippi  River,  a  short  distance  above  Baton  Rouge,  was  be- 
sieged by  the  forces  of  General  Banks.  The  fall  of  Vicksburg,  in 
July,  1863,  compelled  the  surrender  of  this  place.  Subsequently  the 
northwest  part  of  the  State — the  Red  River  country — was  invaded 
by  a  powerful  force  under  General  Banks.  He  was  defeated  by  the 
Confederates  in  two  severe  battles  and  forced  to  retreat.  While  the 
siege  of  Vicksburg  was  in  progress,  a  severe  battle  was  fought  at 
Baton  Rouge,  which  town  was  almost  destroyed  during  the  war. 
Several  towns  along  the  Mississippi  were  burned,  and  the  lower  par- 
ishes generally  desolated. 

Attempts  were  made,  in  1864,  to  organize  a  "restored  government" 
for  the  State,  and  Representatives  were  elected  to  Congress.  The 
whole  system  was  repudiated  by  Congress  subsequently.  In  1865,  a 
Provisional  Government  was  recognized  by  the  President,  and  over- 
thrown by  Congress,  which  body,  in  1867,  placed  the  State  under 
military  rule  as  a  part  of  the  Fifth  Military  District.  A  Convention 
met  in  New  Orleans,  in  November,  1867,  and  adopted  a  State  Con- 
stitution, which  was  ratified  by  the  people  on  the  23d  of  April,  1868. 
The  State  was  readmitted  into  the  Union  on  the  25th  of  June,  1868. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  most  important  cities  and  towns  in  the  State  are  Donaldson- 
ville,  Algiers,  Baton  Rouge,  Jefferson,  Carrolton,  Plaquemine,  Thi- 
bodeaux,  Alexandria,  Shreveport,  Homer,  and  Opelousas. 

NEW   ORLEANS, 

The  capital  and  commercial  and  social  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  also 
the  ninth  city  of  the  United  States  with  respect  to  population,  and  the 
largest  and  most  important  city  in  the  South.  It  is  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  about  100  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  that  stream.  Latitude  29°  58'  N. ;  longitude  90°  V  W.  It  is 
1663  miles  southwest  of  New  York,  2000  miles  south-by-east  of  the 


LOUISIANA.  713 

Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi,  1628 
miles  south-by-west  of  Chicago,  and  1438  miles  southwest  of  Wash- 
ington. 

"  New  Orleans  is  built  around  a  bend  in  the  river,  from  which  cir- 
cumstance it  has  been  denominated  the  l  Crescent  City/  The  site 
inclines  gently  from  the  margin  of  the  Mississippi  towards  the  marshy 
ground  in  the  rear,  and  is  from  2  to  5  feet  below  the  level  of  the  river 
at  the  usual  spring  freshets.  To  prevent  inundations,  an  embank- 
ment or  levee,  about  1 5  feet  high  in  some  places,  and  6  feet  in  others, 
has  been  raised,  extending  120  miles  above  the  city,  arid  to  Port 
Plaquemine,  43  miles  below  it.  This  forms  a  delightful  promenade. 
In  consequence  of  the  change  of  the  course  of  the  river  opposite  New 
Orleans,  large  quantities  of  alluvion,  swept  from  the  north  and  held  in 
suspension  by  the  current,  are  here  deposited.  New  formations  from 
this  cause,  in  front  of  that  portion  of  the  quay  most  used  for  the  purposes 
of  commerce,  have  been  so  rapid  that  it  has  been  necessary  within  a  few 
years  to  build  piled  wharves  jutting  out  from  50  to  100  feet  into  the 
Mississippi.  The  levee  here  has  also  been  gradually  widened,  so  that 
an  additional  tier  of  warehouses  has  been  erected  between  the  city  and 
the  river.  The  old  city  proper,  originally, laid  out  by  the  French,  is 
in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  1320  yards  long  and  700  yards  wide. 
Above  this  are  what  were  formerly  the  faubourgs  of  St.  Mary,  Annun- 
ciation, and  La  Course;  below,  Marigny,  Dunois,  and  Declouet;  and 
in  the  rear,  Tre'me  and  St.  John's.  Lafayette,  until  a  few  years  ago 
under  a  separate  government,  is  immediately  above  the  city." 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out.  The  streets  are  narrow  in  the  older 
portion,  and  wide  in  the  new,  and  are  well  paved.  Since  the  civil  war, 
the  city  has  been  kept  unusually  clean.  The  principal  business  thor- 
oughfare, Canal  street,  is  190  feet  wide,  with  a  turfed  promenade,  25 
feet  wide,  extending  along  the  middle  of  the  entire  street.  Esplanade, 
Rampart,  and  Basin  streets  have  similar  grass-plots.  The  city  is  well 
built,  the  buildings  being  mostly  of  brick.  Owing  to  the  marshy 
nature  of  the  ground — water  being  found  two  feet  below  the  surface — 
the  houses  have  no  cellars.  A  basement,  about  6  feet  in  height,  takes 
the  place  of  the  cellar.  In  the  business  portions,  the  buildings  are 
5  and  6  stories  in  height,  but  in  the  private  sections  they  are  lower. 
The  dwellings  in  the  suburbs,  especially  in  Lafayette,  are  surrounded 
by  orange,  lemon,  magnolia  and  other  trees  which  fill  the  air  with  a 
delicious  perfume.  Many  of  the  better  class  dwellings  are  palatial  in 
their  external  and  internal  appointments,  and  there  is,  perhaps,  no 


m  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

city  in  the  country  where  the  higher  classes  are  more  luxurious  in 
their  tastes  and  style  of  living.  The  general  aspect  of  the  city  is 
bright,  cheerful  and  inviting.  It  is  so  thoroughly  French  in  its  gen- 
eral characteristics,  that  this  could  hardly  be  otherwise.  "  In  the  old 
city,  many  of  the  dwellings  are  constructed  with  a  carriage-way  and 
gate  leading  directly  from  the  street  to  an  interior  courtyard  enclosed 
by  the  main  building.  Most  of  the  signs  over  the  shops  are  inscribed 
in  French,  or  both  French  and  English.  This  portion  of  the  city, 
with  the  old  Faubourg  Treme  in  its  rear,  constitutes  the  2d  district, 
formerly  the  1st  municipality.  Next  above,  extending  from  Canal 
street  to  Felicity  road,  lies  the  1st  district,  formerly  the  Faubourg  St. 
Mary,  and  subsequently  the  2d  municipality ;  while  still  beyond  is 
the  4th  district,  prior  to  1852  the  city  of  Lafayette.  In  these  two 
districts,  the  buildings  are  more  modern,  and  most  of  the  streets  are 
wider,  though  very  irregular  in  their  directions.  In  the  4th  district, 
many  of  the  dwellings  are  spacious  and  of  great  elegance,  with  ample 
grounds  for  shrubbery,  etc.  Below  the  old  city,  again,  lies  the  3d 
district,  formerly  the  Faubourg  Marigny,  and  afterwards  the  3d  muni- 
cipality, which  is  the  residence  of  a  large  portion  of  the  Creole  and 
foreign  population.  The  nomenclature  of  the  streets  is  remarkable. 
French,  Spanish,  and  Anglo-American  ideas  and  personages  are  all 
represented.  The  9  Muses,  with  other  heathen  divinities,  give  name 
to  one  series,  while  in  other  quarters  are  found  St.  Charles,  St.  Mary, 
St.  Louis,  and  the  like,  together  with  '  Love/  '  Piety/  '  Virtue/  '  Re- 
ligious/ etc.  The  Pontchartrain  railway  runs  through  the  Elysian 
Fields,  a  street,  and  by  no  means  the  most  attractive  one  of  the  city. 
'Greatmen/  'Goodchildren/  ' Frenchmen/  ' Crops/  etc.,  are  specimens 
of  other  odd  and  apparently  whimsical  names.  The  same  street  re- 
peatedly changes,  not  only  its  direction,  but  its  designation.  Thus 
Royal,  one  of  the  original  streets  of  the  old  city,  becomes  St.  Charles 
on  entering  the  1st  district,  and  still  higher  takes  the  pagan  and 
poetical  name  of  Nayades ;  while  its  continuation  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion, through  the  3d  district,  commemorates  the  Marquis  Casa  Calvo, 
the  last  of  the  Spanish  Governors.  In  like  manner,  Bourbon  becomes 
Carondelet  and  then  Apollo  in  one  direction,  and  declines  into  Baga- 
telle in  the  other." 

The  city  contains  a  number  of  handsome  public  squares.  The 
principal  of  these  is  the  Neio  City  Park,  in  the  northeastern  portion, 
near  Metarie  road  and  Monroe  avenue.  It  contains  about  150  acres, 
and  is  handsomely  laid  out.  Jackson  Square,  formerly  the  Place 


LOUISIANA. 


715 


VIEW   IN   ST.    CHARLES   STREET,    NEW    ORLEANS. 

d'Armes,  covers  the  centre  of  the  river  front  of  the  old  Town  Plot, 
now  the  1st  district.  It  is  the  favorite  place  of  resort.  It  is  beau- 
tifully laid  out  in  shell  walks,  and  is  ornamented  with  the  rarest 
plants  and  flowers  of  the  South,  statuary,  etc.  In  the  centre  is  an 
equestrian  statue  of  General  Jackson.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Louis 
and  the  Court  buildings  front  the  square.  Lafayette  Square  is  in  the 
2d  district,  and  is  bounded  by  St.  Charles  and  Camp  streets. 
The  City  Hall  and  several  handsome  buildings  face  it.  Tivoli  Circle, 
Annunciation  and  Washington  Squares,  and  Circus  Place,  are  the 
others.  The  last  named  is  better  known  as  Congo  Square,  and  is 
famous  as  the  favorite  play -ground  of  the  negroes. 

The  Public  Buildings  of  New  Orleans  are  numerous  and  handsome. 
The  U.  S.  Custom  House,  on  Canal  street,  near  the  levee,  is  still  in- 
complete, but  when  finished  will  be,  next  to  the  Capitol  at  Washing- 


716  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ton,  the  largest  building  in  the  United  States.  It  is  built  of  granite 
from  Quincy,  Mass.  Its  main  front,  on  Canal  street,  is  334  feet  long. 
Its  depth  is  297  feet.  The  Post  Office  and  other  Government  offices 
are  located  in  the  building.  The  Mint  is  a  large  edifice  of  brick, 
stuccoed  in  imitation  of  brown  stone,  and  was  used  by  the  Federal 
Government  for  the  coining  of  money  until  the  breaking  out  of  the 
civil  war.  The  City  Hall  is  a  handsome  building  of  white  marble, 
at  the  intersection  of  St.  Charles  and  Lafayette  streets.  It  is  in  the 
Grecian  Ionic  style  of  architecture,  and  is  208  feet  by  90.  It  con- 
tains the  offices  of  the  City  Government.  In  the  absence  of  a  State 
Capitol,  it  is  also  used  by  the  Governor  of  Louisiana  and  the  Secretary 
of  State.  Lyceum  Hall  is  a  handsome  building  on  St.  Charles  street, 
containing  a  lecture  hall  and  the  City  and  State  Libraries.  Odd  Fel- 
lows' Hall  is  a  showy  edifice  of  brick  stuccoed  in  imitation  of  marble. 
Masonic  Hall  and  the  Merchants'  Exchange  are  also  imposing  struc- 
tures. Two  handsome  buildings  in  the  Doric  and  Tuscan  orders,  used 
by  the  city  courts,  are  located  on  Jackson  Square,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  Cathedral.  They  were  constructed  towards  the  close  of  the  last 
century,  through  the  liberality  of  the  founder  of  the  Cathedral,  Don 
Andre  Almonaster. 

The  Benevolent  and  Charitable  institutions  are  numerous,  and  are 
famous  for  their  efficiency.  Perhaps  no  city  in  the  Union  has  a 
greater  number  of  such  institutions,  in  proportion  to  its  population. 
They  are  liberally  supported  by  the  city  and  the  citizens.  The  most 
important  are  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  the  Charity  Hospital,  with 
beds  for  450  patients,  the  Female  Orphan  Asylum,  with  accommoda- 
tions, for  160  children;  the  Poydras  Female  Orphan  Asylum;  the 
Male  Orphan  Asylum ;  the  Asylum  of  St.  Elizabeth,  under  the  charge 
of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy ;  and  the  Maison  de  Sante. 

The  Penal  and  Reformatory  establishments  consist  of  a  Parish  Jail 
and  a  Police  Jail,  and  a  Wwkhouse  in  each  municipality.  The  jails 
are  3  stories  high,  and  are  built  of  brick  stuccoed  in  imitation  of  granite. 
The  workhouses  of  the  2d  and  3d  municipalities  are  model  insti- 
tutions, and  are  devoted  to  the  reformation  of  criminals,  especially 
of  juvenile  offenders. 

The  city  contains  between  55  and  60  church  edifices.  About  one- 
half  of  these  are  Roman  Catholic.  The  principal  church  edifice  is  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Louis,  on  Jackson  Square,  begun  in  1792  and  com- 
pleted in  1794,  by  Don  Andre  Almonaster,  perpetual  regidor,  and 
Alvarez  Real,  of  the  province.  It  is  plain  and  simple,  but  venerable 
and  imposing  in  appearance. 


LOUISIANA.  7U 

The  schools  of  New  Orleans  consist  of  4  high  schools,  and  38  pri- 
mary and  grammar  schools,  which  are  public  and  designed  for  both 
sexes.  In  addition  to  these  are  18  schools  for  colored  children.  The 
University  of  Louisiana  was  organized  in  1849,  and  consists  at  present 
of  a  law  and  medical  school,  both  of  which  are  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition. 

The  city  contains  but  few  public  libraries,  and  these  are  unimport- 
ant. The  City  Library  contains  about  20,000  volumes.  The  best 
libraries  in  New  Orleans  are  those  of  private  individuals,  and  such 
collections  are  said  to  be  numerous. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water  from  the 
Mississippi.  The  water  is  pumped  by  steam  into  an  elevated  reser- 
voir, and  thence  distributed  through  the  city  in  the  ordinary  way. 
Street  railways  and  omnibuses  connect  the  principal  points.  There  is 
a  police  and  fire-alarm  telegraph  in  operation  in  the  city,  which  has 
also  an  efficient  police  force,  and  a  steam  fire  department.  The 
government  consists  of  a  Mayor  and  Common  Council. 

The  newspapers  of  the  city  are  among  the  most  influential  and  the 
ablest  in  the  country.  More  than  15  journals,  daily  and  weekly,  are 
published  here,  several  in  the  French  language. 

The  cemeteries  of  New  Orleans  are  among  its  most  peculiar  features. 
There  are  10  or  12  of  these.  Each  one  is  enclosed  with  a  brick  wall, 
of  arched  cavities,  or  "  ovens,"  as  the  natives  call  them,  made  just  large 
enough  to  admit  a  single  coffin,  and  built  tier  upon  tier,  to  a  height 
of  about  12  feet,  with  a  thickness  of  10.  The  whole  enclosure  is 
divided  into  plots,  with  gravel  paths  intersecting  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  is  densely  covered  with  tombs  built  wholly  above  ground, 
and  from  one  to  three  stories  high.  Many  of  these  tombs  are  very 
handsome.  Burial  beneath  the  surface  is  impracticable,  and  is  only 
resorted  to  by  persons  too  poor  to  buy  a  tomb  for  their  friends. 
Strangers,  the  friendless,  and  the  very  poor  are  taken  to  the  Potters' 
Field,  and  literally  laid  in  the  water,  which  is  found  2  feet  below  the 
surface.  The  marshy  soil  often  casts  these  coffins  up  again,  leaving 
the  bodies  to  rot  under  the  fierce  sun. 

The  Markets  are  characteristic  and  numerous.  "  The  principal  are 
the  vegetable  and  meat  (French)  markets  on  the  levee  near  Jackson 
Square  and  the  French  Cathedral.  To  be  seen  to  the  greatest  advan- 
tage, they  should  be  visited  on  Sunday  morning,  between  the  hours 
of  8  and  9  o'clock.  At  break  of  day  the  gathering  commences — all 
colors,  nations,  and  tongues,  commingled  in  one  heterogeneous  mass. 


718 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


JACKSON   SQUARE,    NEW   ORLEANS. 


The  music,  far  from  being  unpleasant,  however,  is  musical  to  the 
stranger's  ear.  A  visit  thither  is  thus  described  by  a  well-known 
writer :  '  One  morning  we  rose  early  to  visit  the  market  of  the  1st 
municipality,  and  found  the  air  on  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi  filled 
with  mist  as  dense  as  a  London  fog,  but  of  a  pure  white  instead  of 
yellow  color.  Through  this  atmosphere  the  innumerable  masts  of  the 
ships  alongside  the  wharf  were  dimly  seen.  Among  other  fruits  in 
the  market  we  observed  abundance  of  bananas,  and  good  pine-apples, 
for  twenty-five  cents  each,  from  the  West  Indies.  There  were  stalls 
where  hot  coffee  was  selling,  in  white  china  cups,  reminding  us  of 
Paris.  Among  other  articles  exposed  for  sale  were  brooms  made 
of  palmetto-leaves,  and  wagon-loads  of  the  dried  Spanish  moss,  or 
Tillandsia.  The  quantity  of  this  plant  hanging  from  the  trees  in  the 
swamps  of  Louisiana,  and  everywhere  on  the  Delta  of  the  Mississippi, 
might  suffice  to  stuff  all  the  mattresses  in  the  world.  The  Indians 
formerly  used  it  for  another  purpose — to  give  porosity  or  lightness  to 
their  building  materials.  When  passing  through  the  stalls,  we  were 
surrounded  by  a  population  of  negroes,  mulattoes,  and  quadroons, 
sonie  talking  French,  others  a  patois  of  Spanish  and  French,  and 
others  a  mixture  of  French  and  English,  or  English  translated  from 
French,  and  with  the  French  accent.  They  seemed  very  merry, 


LOUISIANA.  710 

especially  those  who  were  jet  black.  Some  of  the  Creoles  also,  both 
of  French  and  Spanish  extraction,  like  many  natives  of  the  South  of 
Europe,  were  very  dark.7 " 

The  hotels  of  New  Orleans  are  among  the  largest  in  the  country, 
and  are  well  kept.  The  principal  are  the  St.  Charles,  the  St.  Louis, 
the  St.  James,  and  the  City  Hotel.  There  are  3  Theatres,  and  2 
Opera  Houses  in  the  city.  They  are  well  supported — especially  the 
Opera  Houses  and  the  Orleans  Theatre,  at  the  last  of  which  the 
performances  are  in  the  French  language. 

New  Orleans  is  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  South,  and  the 
most  important  cotton  market  in  the  Union.  It  is  admirably  situated 
for  commerce.  It  lies  within  100  miles  of  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  2000  miles  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  All  the  immense  trade 
of  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries  can  be  brought  to  the  city  without 
reshipment.  Thus  New  Orleans  is  the  natural  gateway,  through 
which  pours  the  commerce  of  the  entire  Mississippi  Valley.  The 
river  in  front  of  the  city  is  deep  enough  for  the  largest  vessels,  but 
the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  will  not  admit  vessels  drawing 
over  18  feet  of  water.  The  Levee,  or  steamboat  landing,  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  places  in  the  city,  and  is  thoroughly  indicative  of  its 
immense  trade.  It  extends  along  the  river  shore  for  about  4  miles, 
and  has  an  average  breadth  of  100  feet.  Here  may  be  seen  every 
description  of  craft  navigating  the  Mississippi  and  the  adjacent  waters. 
At  one  portion  are  hundreds  of  flat  boats  drawn  up  on  the  land,  some 
filled  with  hay,  corn,  potatoes,  butter,  cheese,  apples,  and  cider,  and 
some  with  horses,  mules,  cattle,  hogs,  sheep,  etc.  The  levee  here  is 
piled  up  with  flour,  pork,  and  all  sorts  of  agricultural  produce  in  the 
greatest  profusion.  Beyond  this  is  the  steamboat  landing,  where  as 
many  as  1200  steamers  may  be  seen  in  the  busy  season,  discharging 
and  receiving  freight.  The  levee  at  this  point  is  covered  with  im- 
mense piles  of  cotton  in  bales,  and  steamers  are  constantly  arriving 
from,  and  departing  for  all  parts  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  Above 
and  below  the  steamer  landing  are  dense  lines  of  steamships  and  sail- 
ing vessels,  in  rows  two  and  three  deep,  bringing  the  products  of 
every  country,  and  carrying  away  the  products  of  the  great  valley. 

The  whole  of  the  commerce  of  the  city,  however,  is  not  carried  on 
upon  the  levee.  The  railways  bring  enormous  quantities  of  produce 
into  New  Orleans,  and  the  trade  which  comes  by  way  of  Lake  Pont- 
chartrain  is  important.  The  lake  is  connected  with  New  Orleans  by 
means  of  a  railway  and  a  canal.  This  canal  terminates  in  a  spacious 


T20  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

basin  near  the  centre  of  the  city.  This  basin  is  always  filled  with 
sloops,  schooners,  and  other  vessels  engaged  in  the  trade  with  the  ports 
on  the  Gulf  coast  to  the  eastward. 

The  river  trade  of  New  Orleans  is  immense,  and  its  foreign  and 
coasting  trades  are  in  proportion.  The  war  for  the  time  destroyed 
both,  but  they  are  now  reviving.  In  1860,  the  year  before  the  civil 
war,  there  were  received  at  New  Orleans  2,255,458  bales  of  cotton, 
and  in  the  same  year  2,214,315  bales  were  exported.  In  the  same 
year  $185,211,254  worth  of  Southern  and  Western  produce  were  re- 
ceived. The  separate  products  were  valued  as  follows  :  cotton,  $109,- 
389,228  ;  sugar,  $18,190,880;  molasses,  $6,250,335;  tobacco,  $8,7 17,- 
485  ;  other  products,  $42,663,326.  In  the  same  year  the  exports  of 
the  city  were  valued  at  $108,293,567,  and  the  imports  at  $22,920,- 
849.  During  the  year  ending  June  30,  1860,  the  entrances  at  the 
port  of  New  Orleans  amounted  to  2052  vessels,  with  a  tonnage  of 
1,212,029;  and  the  clearances  to  2235  vessels,  with  a  tonnage  of 
1,248,526.  During  the  year  ending  August  31,  1860,  the  arrivals 
of  steamboats  were  3566,  and  of  flatboats  831.  These  figures  show 
the  trade  of  the  city  in  its  palmiest  days. 

During  the  year  ending  September  1,  1870,  there  were  received 
at  New  Orleans  1,208,000  bales  of  cotton,  valued  at  $120,000,000; 
57,956  bbls.  of  rice;  produce  from  the  interior  to  the  amount  of 
$200,000,000 ;  and  manufactured  articles  from  the  Northern  States  to 
the  amount  of  $50,000,000.  During  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30, 
1870,  the  foreign  exports  of  New  Orleans  amounted  to  $107,657,042, 
and  the  imports  to  $14,993,754.  The  entire  value  of  the  commerce 
of  the  city  for  the  same  year  was  more  than  $500,000,000.  The  ex- 
ports coastwise  amounted  to  nearly  $60,000,000.  In  the  same  year 
4406  vessels  were  entered  and  cleared  at  the  Custom  House,  with  an 
aggregate  tonnage  of  3,126,319  tons.  The  arrivals  of  steamboats  were 
3650,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of  3,000,000  tons.  In  the  same 
year  2  large  cotton  mills  were  in  operation  in  the  city,  also  a  number 
of  factories  engaged  in  making  oil  from  cotton  seed. 

One  of  the  greatest  drawbacks  to  the  prosperity  of  New  Orleans  is 
the  unhealthiness  of  the  city  and  the  region  in  which  it  is  situated. 
During  the  first  70  or  80  years  after  its  settlement  it  was  regarded 
as  eminently  healthful.  Since  its  transfer  to  the  American  Govern- 
ment it  has  been  repeatedly  ravaged  by  yellow  fever.  Apart  from 
this  disease,  the  city  is  regarded  as  thoroughly  healthful,  and  the  na- 
tives and  acclimated  residents  compare  favorably  with  those  of  any 


LOUISIANA. 


721 


LAFAYETTE  SQUARE,  NEW  ORLEANS. 

other  large  city  in  respect  of  health  and  longevity.  According  to  some 
writers,  yellow  fever  made  its  first  appearance  with  the  arrival  of  the 
Spaniards  in  1769  ;  according  to  others,  it  did  not  appear  until  1796. 
Previous  to  this  it  had  appeared  in  Europe  and  in  the  more  northern 
cities  of  North  America,  In  1819,  '22,  '29,  '33,  '35,  '37,  '39,  '41,  '43, 
'47,  '53,  and  '58,  it  raged  with  fearful  violence.  In  1853,  between 
May  26th  and  October  22d,  8500  persons  are  said  to  have  died  of  the 
fever.  The  greatest  mortality  was  on  the  22d  of  August,  when  283 
persons  died.  During  the  summer  season  large  numbers  of  persons 
leave  the  city,  and  trade  is  very  dull. 

In  1870  the  population  of  New  Orleans  was  191,322,  and  is  made 
up  of  native  Americans,  persons  of  foreign  descent  called  Creoles, 
foreigners,  and  negroes  and  persons  of  African  descent.  "  Those 
who  would  form  a  just  estimate  of  the  social  character  and  appear- 
ance of  the  Creole  population  of  the  city,  should  visit  the  opera  in 
the  height  of  the  season.  The  French  Creole  ladies,  many  of  them 
descended  from  Norman  ancestors,  and  of  pure,  unmixed  blood,  are 
very  handsome.  They  are  usually  attired  in  Parisian  fashion,  not 
over-dressed,  nor  so  thinly  clad  as  are  the  generality  of  American 
women — their  luxuriant  hair,  tastefully  arranged,  fastened  with  or- 
namental pins,  and  adorned  with  a  colored  ribbon  or  a  single  flower. 
The  word  'creole*  is  used  in  Louisiana  to  express  a  native-born 
46 


722  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

American,  whether  black  or  white,  descended  from  old-world  parents, 
for  they  would  not  call  the  aboriginal  Indians  Creoles.  It  never 
means  persons  of  mixed  breed  ;  and  the  French  or  Spanish  Creoles  in 
New  Orleans  would  shrink  as  much  as  a  New  Englander  from  in- 
termarriage with  one  tainted,  in  the  slightest  degree,  with  African 
blood.  The  frequent  alliances  of  the  Creoles,  or  Louisianians,  of 
French  extraction,  with  lawyers  and  merchants  from  the  Northern 
States,  help  to  cement  the  ties  which  are  every  day  binding  more 
firmly  together  the  distant  parts  of  the  Union.  Both  races  may  be 
improved  by  such  connection,  for  the  manners  of  the  Creole  ladies 
are,  for  the  most  part,  more  refined ;  and  many  a  Louisianian  might 
justly  have  felt  indignant  if  he  could  have  overheard  a  conceited 
young  bachelor  from  the  North  telling  me  l  how  much  they  were 
preferred  by  the  fair  sex  to  the  hard-drinking,  gambling,  horse-racing, 
cock-fighting,  and  tobacco-chewing  Southerners/  If  the  Creoles  have 
less  depth  of  character,  and  are  less  striving  and  ambitious  than  the 
New  Englanders,  it  must  be  no  slight  source  of  happiness  to  the 
former  to  be  so  content  with  present  advantages.  They  seem  to  feel, 
far  more  than  the  Anglo-Saxons,  that  if  riches  be  worth  the  winning 
they  are  also  worth  enjoying.  The  quadroons,  or  the  offspring  of  the 
whites  and  mulattoes,  sit  in  an  upper  tier  of  boxes  appropriated  to  them. 
When  they  are  rich,  they  hold  a  peculiar  and  very  equivocal  position 
in  society.  As  children  they  have  often  been  sent  to  Paris  for  their 
education,  and,  being  as  capable  of  improvement  as  any  whites,  re- 
turn with  refined  manners,  and  not  unfrequently  with  more  culti- 
vated minds  than  the  majority  of  those  from  whose  society  they  are 
shut  out.  '  By  the  tyranny  of  caste  they  are  driven,  therefore,  to 
form  among  themselves  a  select  and  exclusive  set.  Among  other 
stories  illustrating  their  social  relation  to  the  whites,  we  are  told  that 
a  young  man  of  the  dominant  race  fell  in  love  with  a  beautiful  quad- 
roon girl,  who  was  so  light-colored  as  to  be  scarcely  distinguishable 
from  one  of  pure  breed.  He  found  that,  in  order  to  render  the  mar- 
riage legal,  he  was  required  to  swear  that  he  himself  had  negro  blood 
in  his  veins;  and,  that  he  might  conscientiously  take  the  oath,  he 
let  some  of  the  blood  of  his  betrothed  into  his  veins  with  a  lancet. 
The  romance  of  this  doubtful  tale  was  greatly  diminished,  although 
I  fear  that  my  inclination  to  believe  in  its  truth  was  equally  en- 
hanced, when  the  additional  circumstance  was  related,  that  the 
young  lady  was  rich/  The  foregoing  sketch  of  society  and  social 
life  in  New  Orleans,  I  need  hardly  remind  my  reader,  was  penned 


LOUISIANA.  723 

long  before  the  late  rebellion  had  so  changed  the  aspect  of  every 
thing  throughout  the  South.  The  visitor  will,  however,  be  sur- 
prised as  well  as  delighted  at  the  extent  to  which  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  'old  regime*  are  still  perpetuated  among  the  descend- 
ants of  the  early  settlers  in  the  Crescent  City." 

Many  of  the  European  customs  are  still  observed  in  New  Orleans. 
"  The  holiday  season,  which  includes  Christmas  and  New  Year's  Day," 
says  the  writer  quoted  above,  "  is  the  best  time  to  visit  the  city.  No 
place  on  the  broad  continent  presents  such  numerous  and  varied  at- 
tractions at  this  festive  season,  and  stolid,  indeed,  must  be  the  stranger 
who  is  not  impressed  with  his  experiences.  The  distinguished  author 
from  whom  we  have  so  largely  quoted,  thus  writes  of  the  Carnival  and 
the  ceremonies  of  Mardi  Gras  :  '  It  was  quite  a  novel  and  refreshing 
sight  to  see  a  whole  population  giving  up  their  minds  for  a  short 
season  to  amusement.  There  was  a  grand  procession  parading  the 
streets,  almost  every  one  dressed  in  the  most  grotesque  attire,  troops 
of  them  on  horseback,  some  in  open  carriages,  with  bands  of  music, 
and  in  a  variety  of  costumes — some  as  Indians,  with  feathers  on  their 
heads,  and  one,  a  jolly  fat  man,  as  Mardi  Gras  himself.  All  wore 
masks,  and  here  and  there  in  the  crowd,  or  stationed  in  a  balcony 
above,  we  saw  persons  armed  with  bags  of  flour,  which  they  showered 
down  copiously  on  any  one  who  seemed  particularly  proud  of  his 
attire.  The  strangeness  of  the  scene  was  not  a  little  heightened  by 
the  blending  of  negroes,  quadroons,  and  mulattoes  in  the  crowd ;  and 
we  were  amused  by  observing  the  ludicrous  surprise,  mixed  with  con- 
tempt, of  several  unmasked,  stiff,  grave  Anglo-Americans  from  the 
North,  who  were  witnessing  for  the  first  time  what  seemed  to  them  so 
much  mummery  and  tomfoolery.  One  wagoner,  coming  out  of  a  cross 
street  in  his  working  dress,  drove  his  team  of  horses  and  vehicle, 
heavily  laden  with  cotton-bales,  right  through  the  procession,  causing 
a  long  interruption.  The  crowd  seemed  determined  to  allow  nothing  to 
disturb  their  good  humor ;  but  although  many  of  the  wealthy  Protestant 
citizens  take  part  in  the  ceremony,  this  rude  intrusion  struck  me  as  a 
kind  of  foreshadowing  of  coming  events,  emblematic  of  the  violent 
shock  which  the  invasion  of  the  Anglo-Americans  is  about  to  give  to 
the  old  regime  of  Louisiana.  A  gentleman  told  me  that,  being  last 
year  in  Rome,  he  had  not  seen  so  many  masks  at  the  Carnival  there ; 
and,  in  spite  of  the  increase  of  Protestants,  he  thought  there  had  been 
quite  as  much  "flour  and  fun"  this  year  as  usual.  The  proportion, 
however,  of  strict  Romanists  is  not  so  great  as  formerly,  and  to-mor- 


724  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

row,  they  say,  when  Lent  begins,  there  will  be  an  end  of  the  trade  in 
masks ;  yet  the  butchers  will  sell  nearly  as  much  meat  as  ever.  Dur- 
ing the  Carnival  the  greater  part  of  the  French  population  keep  open 
houses,  especially  in  the  country/  " 

New  Orleans  was  first  settled  in  1718,  by  Bienville,  who  had  be- 
come satisfied  of  the  propriety  of  removing  the  seat  of  government  of 
the  French  province  of  Louisiana  from  Mobile  to  the  more  productive 
region  of  the  lower  Mississippi.  In  1722,  it  contained  about  100  log 
cabins  and  a  population  of  200  persons.  In  1723,  the  seat  of  Govern- 
ment was  permanently  removed  from  Mobile  to  New  Orleans.  In 
1727,  the  construction  of  the  levee  was  begun.  It  was  more  than  a 
mile  in  length,  and  was  designed  to  protect  the  city  from  the  over- 
flows of  the  river.  Smaller  levees  were  constructed  for  15  miles 
above,  and  15  miles  below  the  city.  In  the  same  year,  a  company  of 
Jesuit  Fathers,  and  one  of  Ursuline  nuns  arrived.  The  Jesuits  re- 
mained until  1763,  when  they  were  expelled.  The  city  grew  gradu- 
ally. In  1745,  the  population  was  estimated  at  800  persons,  exclu- 
sive of  women  and  children,  200  soldiers,  and  300  negroes.  In  1763, 
the  city  of  New  Orleans  passed  into  the  hands  of  Spain,  with  the  rest 
of  Louisiana.  The  inhabitants,  however,  bitterly  opposed  the  transfer, 
and  the  Spaniards  did  not  take  actual  possession  of  the  city  until  1769, 
at  which  time  the  entire  population  numbered  3190.  Many  of  the 
best  inhabitants  removed  to  the  West  Indies,  rather  than  live  under 
Spanish  rule.  Under  the  later  Spanish  Governors,  however,  matters 
took  a  different  turn,  and  the  city  grew  rapidly.  In  1785,  it  con- 
tained 4980  inhabitants.  In  March,  1788,  a  fire  destroyed  900  houses. 
Provisions  ran  low,  and  a  famine  was  imminent.  Between  1792 
and  1797,  the  streets  were  lighted,  fire  companies  were  organized, 
and  the  Carondelet  Canal  was  opened.  In  1800,  Spain  re-ceded 
the  province  of  Louisiana  to  France;  and  in  1803,  Louisiana  was 
purchased  by  the  United  States,  and  New  Orleans  became  an  Ameri- 
can city.  The  population  of  the  city  at  this  time  was  8000.  During 
the  second  war  with  England,  the  English  were  very  anxious  to  cap- 
ture New  Orleans,  which  was  a  prize  of  great  value  as  controlling  the 
navigation  of  the  Mississippi.  They  made  their  grand  attempt  on 
ithe  8th  of  January,  1815,  on  the  plain  of  Chalmette,  near  the  city, 
and  were  defeated  with  heavy  loss  by  a  small  American  force  under 
General  Andrew  Jackson.  In  1836,  the  city  was  divided,  by  an  Act 
of  the  Legislature,  into  three  municipalities,  each  with  a  separate  gov- 
ernment; but,  in  1852,  these  municipalities  were  consolidated,  and 


LOUISIANA.  725 

the  limits  of  the  corporation  were  extended  to  include  the  town  of 
Lafayette,  lying  in  the  adjacent  parish  of  the  same  name.  At  the 
beginning  of  the  civil  war,  the  city  and  the  forts  commanding  the 
lower  Mississippi  were  held  by  the  Confederates.  On  the  25th  of 
April,  1862,  Admiral  (then  Commodore)  Farragut  passed  the  forts 
with  his  fleet,  defeating  and  destroying  the  Confederate  squadron 
which  sought  to  bar  his  way.  This  victory  opened  the  city  to  the 
United  States  army,  which  occupied  it  on  the  1st  of  May,  1862,  and 
held  it  until  the  close  of  the  war.  Soon  after  its  capture,  New  Orleans 
became  the  capital  of  the  State. 

MISCELLANY. 

THE    BATTLE    OF    NEW    ORLEANS. 

On  his  arrival  in  the  city,  General  Jackson,  in  conjunction  with  Judge  Hall, 
and  many  influential  persons  of  the  city,  on  the  16th  of  December,  1814,  issued  an 
order  declaring  the  city  and  environs  of  New  Orleans  to  be  under  strict  martial 
law.  Every  individual  entering  the  city  was  required  to  report  himself  to  the 
adjutant-general,  and  no  person  by  land  or  water  was  suffered  to  leave  the  city 
without  a  passport.  The  street  lamps  were  ordered  to  be  extinguished  at  9 
o'clock  ;  after  which  any  persons  found  in  the  streets,  or  from  their  homes  with- 
out permission  in  writing,  and  not  haying  the  countersign,  were  ordered  to  be 
apprehended  as  spies.  This  measure  at  once  converted  the  whole  city  into  a 
camp,  and  subjected  the  persons  and  property  of  the  citizens  to  the  will  of  the 
commanding  general.  Writs  of  habeas  corpus,  and  all  other  civil  processes  by 
means  of  which  the  lives  and  properties  of  the  people  are  protected,  were  for  the 
time  suspended.  Such  was  the  alarm  and  confusion  of  the  moment,  that  few  in- 
quiries were  made  whence  the  commanding  general  of  a  military  station  derived 
such  powers,  to  be  exercised  over  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  country,  in  no- 
wise connected  with  his  camp.  Although  the  brilliant  success  which  afterward 
attended  the  operations  of  General  Jackson  seemed  to  justify  the  measure,  yet  the 
people  saw  in  it  a  precedent,  which,  though  it  might  have  saved  New  Orleans, 
might  at  some  future  period  extinguish  their  liberties.  A  most  rigid  police  was 
now  instituted.  Spies  and  traitors,  with  which,  the  Governor  complained,  the 
city  abounded,  and  who  had  been  industriously  employed  in  seducing  the  French 
and  Spanish  inhabitants  from  their  allegiance,  now  fled  ;  and  the  remaining  citi- 
zens cordially  co-operated  with  the  general  in  the  means  of  defence.  Fort  St. 
Philips,  which  guarded  the  passage  of  the  river  at  the  Detour  la  Plaqemine,  was 
strengthened  and  placed  under  the  command  of  Major  Overtoil,  an  able  and  skil- 
ful engineer.  A  site  was  selected  for  works  of  defence,  4  miles  below  the  city, 
where  its  destinies  were  ultimately  to  be  determined.  The  right  rested  on  the 
river,  and  the  left  was  flanked  by  an  impenetrable  cypress  swamp,  which  exten- 
ded eastward  to  Lake  Pontchartrain,  and  westward  to  within  a  mile  of  the  river. 
Between  the  swamp  and  the  river  was  a  large  ditch  or  artificial  bayou,  which  had 
been  made  for  agricultural  objects,  but  which  now  served  an  important  military 
purpose.  On  the  northern  bank  of  this  ditch  the  entrenchments  were  thrown  up. 


726  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Each  flank  was  secured  by  an  advance  bastion,  and  the  latter  protected  by  bat- 
teries in  the  rear.  These  works  were  well  mounted  with  artillery.  Opposite 
this  position,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  on  a  rising  ground,  General  Morgan, 
with  the  city  and  drafted  militia,  was  stationed  ;  and  Commodore  Patterson,  with 
the  crews  of  the  Caroline  and  Louisiana,  and  the  guns  of  the  latter,  formed  an- 
other, near  General  Morgan's ;  both  of  which  entirely  enfiladed  the  approach  of 
an  enemy  against  the  principal  works.  A  detachment  was  stationed  above  the 
town  to  guard  the  pass  of  the  Bayou  St.  John,  it  an  attempt  should  be  made  from 
that  quarter.  These  arrangements,  promptly  and  judiciously  made,  gave  entire 
confidence  to  the  citizens,  and  inspired  them  with  zeal  to  second  the  general's 
exertions.  Reinforcements  were  daily  arriving,  and  as  they  arrived  were  imme- 
diately conducted  to  their  respective  stations. 

Landing  of  the  British. — In  the  meantime  the  British  were  actively  employed 
in  making  preparations  for  the  attack ;  believing  the  pass  from  Lake  Borgne  to 
Lake  Pontchartrain  to  be  defended  according  to  General  Wilkinson's  plan,  by  the 
fortress  of  Petit  Coquille,  they  determined  to  land  from  Lake  Borgne  by  the 
Bayou  Bienvenue.  For  this  purpose  they  concentrated  their  forces  on  Ship 
Island,  80  miles  distant  from  the  contemplated  place  of  landing.  The  depth  of 
water  in  Lake  Borgne  was  such  that  this  distance  could  be  traversed  only  by 
boats  and  small  craft,  and  must  necessarily  be  passed  several  times  in  order  to 
bring  up  the  whole  armament.  The  first  object  of  the  British  general  was  to 
clear  the  lake  of  the  American  gunboats ;  and.  for  this  purpose,  40  British 
launches  were  sent  in  pursuit  of  them,  and,  after  a  desperate  resistance,  captured 
and  destroyed  the  whole  American  flotilla,  stationed  on  Lakes  Borgne  and  Pont- 
chartrain, for  the  defence  of  New  Orleans,  consisting  of  5  gunboats  and  a  small 
sloop  and  schooner.  By  this  success,  they  obtained  the  undisturbed  possession 
of  the  lake ;  and,  on  the  22d  of  December,  proceeded  from  their  rendezvous  on 
Ship  Island,  with  all  their  boats  and  small  craft  capable  of  navigating  the  lake, 
to  the  Bayou  of  Bienvenue  ;  and  having  surprised  and  captured  the  videttes  at 
the  mouth  of  the  bayou,  the  first  division  accomplished  their  landing  unobserved. 
Major-General  Villiere,  of  the  New  Orleans  militia,  living  on  the  bayou,  to  whom 
the  important  service  of  making  the  first  attack,  and  giving  notice  of  the  enemy's 
approach,  was  entrusted,  found  them  on  his  plantation,  9  miles  below  the  city, 
without  any  previous  knowledge  of  their  approach. 

Skirmishes  on  the  23d. — Notice  was  immediately  given  to  General  Jackson, 
who  came  out  and  attacked  them  on  the  evening  of  the  23d.  In  this  affair  the 
British  sustained  a  loss,  in  killed,  wounded,  and  missing,  of  500.  The  British 
entrenched  themselves  at  the  Bienvenue  plantation,  4  miles  from  the  American 
camp,  making  the  plantation  house,  in  the  rear  of  their  works,  their  headquarters. 
General  Jackson  established  his  headquarters  at  M'Carty's  plantation,  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  in  full  view  of  the  British  encampment.  Two  armed 
schooners,  the  Caroline  and  Louisiana,  constituting  all  the  American  naval  force 
on  the  river,  dropped  down  from  the  city,  anchored  opposite  the  British  encamp- 
ment, and  opened  a  brisk  fire  upon  their  lines  with  considerable  effect.  On  the 
27th,  the  Caroline,  Captain  Henly,  got  becalmed  within  reach  of  the  British  bat- 
teries, and  was  set  fire  to  and  destroyed  by  their  hot  shot :  the  other  succeeded  in 
getting  out  of  their  reach.  On  the  28th,  the  British  advanced  to  within  half  a  mile 
of  the  American  lines,  and  opened  a  fire  of  shells  and  rockets  ;  but  were  driven 
back  by  the  artillery  with  considerable  loss.  On  the  night  of  the  31st  of  Decem- 
ber, the  enemy  again  advanced  to  within  600  yards  of  General  Jackson's  position,. 


LOUISIANA.  727 

and  erected  three  batteries,  mounting  15  guns,  and  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning 
opened  a  heavy  fire.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  under  cover  of  these  batteries, 
three  unsuccessful  attempts  were  made  to  storm  the  American  works.  By  4  in 
the  afternoon,  all  the  batteries  were  silenced,  and  in  the  following  night  they  re- 
turned to  their  former  position.  On  the  4th  of  January,  General  Adair  arrived 
with  4000  Kentucky  militia,  principally  without  arms.  The  muskets  and  muni- 
tions of  war  destined  for  the  supply  of  this  corps,  were  provided  at  Pittsburgh, 
and  did  not  leave  that  place  until  the  25th  of  December ;  passed  Louisville  the 
6th  of  January,  and  arrived  at  New  Orleans  several  days  after  the  battle  of  the 
8th.  On  the  6th,  the  last  reinforcement  of  3000  men  arrived  from  England,  under 
Major-General  Lambert.  Before  the  final  assault  on  the  American  lines,  the 
British  general  deemed  it  necessary  to  dislodge  General  Morgan  and  Commodore 
Patterson  from  their  positions  on  the  right  bank.  These  posts  so  effectually  en- 
filaded the  approach  to  General  Jackson's  works,  that  the  army  advancing  to  the 
assault  must  be  exposed  to  the  most  imminent  hazard.  To  accomplish  this  ob- 
ject, boats  were  to  be  transported  across  the  island  from  Lake  Borgiie  to  the 
Mississippi ;  for  this  purpose  the  British  had  been  laboriously  employed  in  deep- 
ening and  widening  the  canal  or  Bayou  Blenvenue,.  on  which  they  first  disem- 
barked. On  the  7th,  they  succeeded  in  opening  the  embankment  on  the  river, 
and  completing  a  communication  from  the  lake  to  the  Mississippi.  In  pushing 
the  boats  through,  it  was  found  at  some  places  the  canal  was  not  of  sufficient 
width,  and  at  others  the  banks  fell  in  and  choked  the  passage,  which  necessarily 
occasioned  great  delay  and  increase  of  labor.  At  length,  however,  they  suc- 
ceeded in  hauling  through  a  sufficient  number  to  transport  500  troops  to  the  right 
bank.  At  dawn  of  day,  on  the  8th,  was  the  period  fixed  for  the  final  assault  on 
the  American  lines.  Colonel  Thornton  was  detached  with  500  men,  to  cross  the 
ri\&er  and  attack  the  batteries  on  that  side,  at  the  same  time  that  the  main  assault 
was  to  be  made,  of  which  he  was  to  be  informed  by  a  signal  rocket.  The  Ameri- 
can general  had  detached  Colonel  Davis,  with  300  Kentucky  militia,  badly 
armed,  to  reinforce  General  Morgan.  These  were  immediately  ordered  to  the 
water-edge,  to  oppose  the  enemy's  landing.  Unable  in  their  situation  to  contend 
with  a  superior  force  of  regular  troops,  well  armed,  they  soon  broke  and  fled,  and 
the  Louisiana  militia  at  General  Morgan's  battery  followed  their  example.  Com- 
modore Patterson's  marine  battery  being  now  unprotected,  his  crews  were 
obliged  to  yield  to  an  overwhelming  force,  and  the  British  succeeded  in  silencing 
both  ;  but  the  opposition  which  Colonel  Thornton  met  With  prevented  this  opera- 
tion from  being  completed  until  the  contest  was  nearly  ended  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river. 

At  daylight,  on  the  morning  of  the  8th,  the  main  body  of  the  British,  under 
their  commander-in-chief,  General  Packcnham,  were  seen  advancing  from  their 
encampment  to  storm  the  American  lines.  On  the  preceding  evening,  they  had 
erected  a  battery  within  800  yards,  which  now  opened  a  brisk  fire  to  protect  their 
advance.  The  British  came  on  in  two  columns,  the  left  along  the  levee  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  directed  against  the  American  right,  while  their  right  advanced 
to  the  swamp,  with  a  view  to  turn  General  Jackson's  left.  The  country  being  a 
perfect  level,  and  the  view  unobstructed,  their  march  was  observed  from  its  com- 
mencement. They  were  suffered  to  approach  in  silence  and  unmolested,  until 
within  300  yards  of  the  lines.  This  period  of  suspense  and  expectation  was  em- 
ployed by  General  Jackson  and  his  officers  in  stationing  every  man  at  his  post, 
und  arranging  everything  for  the  decisive  event.  When  the  British  columns  had 


72S  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

advanced  within  300  yards  of  the  lines,  the  whole  artillery  at  once  opened  upon 
them  a  most  deadly  fire.  Forty  pieces  of  cannon,  deeply  charged  with  grape, 
canister,  and  musket  balls,  mowed  them  down  by  hundreds ;  at  the  sai»e  time 
the  batteries  on  the  west  bank  opened  their  fire,  while  the  riflemen,  in  perfect 
security  behind  their  works,  as  the  British  advanced,  took  deliberate  aim,  and 
nearly  every  shot  took  effect.  Through  this  destructive  fire  the  British  left 
column,  under  the  immediate  orders  of  the  Commander-in-chief,  rushed  on  with 
their  fascines  and  scaling-ladders  to  the  advance  bastion  on  the  American  right, 
and  succeeded  in  mounting  the  parapet;  here,  after  a  close  conflict  with  the 
bayonet,  they  succeeded  in  obtaining  possession  of  the  bastion,  when  the  battery 
planted  in  the  rear  for  its  protection,  opened  its  fire  and  drove  the  British  from 
the  ground.  On  the  American  leftj  the  British  attempted  to  pass  the  swamp  and 
gain  the  rear,  but  the  works  had  been  extended  as  far  into  the  swamp  as  the 
ground  would  permit.  Some  who  attempted  it  sunk  into  the  mire  and  disap- 
peared ;  those  behind,  seeing  the  fate  of  their  companions,  seasonably  retreated 
and  gained  the  hard  ground.  The  assault  continued  an  hour  and  a  quarter:  dur- 
ing the  whole  time  the  British  were  exposed  to  the  deliberate  and  destructive  fire 
of  the  American  artillery  and  musketry,  which  lay  in  perfect  security  behind 
their  earthen  breastworks,  through  which  no  balls  could  penetrate.  At  8  o'clock, 
the  British  columns  drew  off  in  confusion,  and  retreated  behind  their  works. 
Flushed  with  success,  the  militia  were  eager  to  pursue  the  British  troops  to  their 
intreuchments,  and  drive  them  immediately  from  the  island.  A  less  prudent  and 
accomplished  general  might  have  been  induced  to  yield  to  the  indiscreet  ardor  of 
his  troops  ;  but  General  Jackson  understood  too  well  the  nature  both  of  his  own 
and  his  enemy's  force  to  hazard  such  an  attempt.  Defeat  must  inevitably  have 
attended  an  assault  made  by  raw  militia  upon  an  intrenched  camp  of  British 
regulars.  The  defence  of  New  Orleans  was  the  object ;  nothing  was  to  be  hazv 
arded  which  would  jeopardize  the  city.  The  British  were  suffered  to  retire  be* 
hind  their  works  without  molestation.  The  result  was  such  as  might  be  expected 
from  the  different  positions  of  the  two  armies.  General  Packenham,  near  the 
crest  of  the  glacis,  received  a  ball  in  his  knee.  Still  continuing  to  lead  on  his 
men,  another  shot  pierced  his  body,  and  he  was  carried  off  the  field.  Nearly  at 
the  same  time,  Major-General  Gibbs,  the  second  in  command,  within  a  few  yards 
of  the  lines,  received  a  mortal  wound,  and  was  removed.  The  third  in  com- 
mand, Major-General  Keane,  at  the  head  of  his  troops  near  the  glacis,  was  se- 
verely wounded.  The  three  commanding  generals,  on  marshaling  their  troops 
at  5  o'clock  in  the  morning,  promised  them  a  plentiful  dinner  in  New  Orleans, 
and  gave  them  Booty  and  Beauty  as  the  parole  and  countersign  of  the  day.  Be- 
fore 8  o'clock  the  three  generals  were  carried  off  the  field,  two  in  the  agonies  of 
death,  and  the  third  entirely  disabled  ;  leaving  upwards  of  2000  of  their  men, 
dead,  dying,  and  wounded,  on  the  field  of  battle.  Colonel  Raynor,  who  com- 
manded the  forlorn  hope  which  stormed  the  American  bastion  on  the  right,  as  he 
was  leading  his  men  up,  had  the  calf  of  his  leg  carried  awray  by  a  cannon  shot. 
Disabled  as  he  was,  he  was  the  first  to  mount  the  parapet,  and  receive  the  Ameri- 
can bayonet.  Seven  hundred  were  killed  on  the  field,  1400  wounded,  and  500 
made  prisoners,  making  a  total  on  that  day  of  2600.  But  6  Americans  were  killed 
and  7  wounded.  Of  General  Morgan's  detachment  on  the  west  bank,  and  in  a 
sortie  on  the  British  lines,  49  were  killed,  and  178  wounded. 

After  the  battle,  General  Lambert,  who  had  arrived  from  England  but  two 
days  before,  and  was  now  the  only  surviving  general,  requested  a  truce  for  the 


LOUISIANA.  T29 

purpose  of  burying  his  dead.  This  was  granted  until  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  9th.  Lines  were  drawn  100  rods  distant  from  the  American  camp,  within 
which  the  British  were  not  permitted  to  approach.  In  the  ditch,  and  in  front  of 
the  works,  within  the  prescribed  lines,  483  British  dead  were  picked  up  by  the 
American  troops,  and  delivered  to  their  companions  over  the  lines  for  burial. 
The  afternoon  of  the  8th,  and  the  whole  of  the  9th,  was  spent  by  the  British  army 
in  burying  their  dead.  The  American  sentinels  guarding  the  lines  during  this 
interval,  frequently  repeated  in  the  hearing  of  the  British,  while  tumbling  their 
companions  by  hundreds  into  pits,  "Six  killed,  seven  wounded." 

Retreat  of  the  British. — On  the  night  of  the  18th,  they  broke  up  their  encamp- 
ment, and  commenced  their  retreat  to  the  place  of  their  first  landing.  To  accom- 
plish this  with  safety,  it  was  necessary  that  the  army  should  move  in  one  body. 
With  this  view,  immediately  after  the  battle  of  the  8th,  large  working  parties  had 
been  employed  in  constructing  a  road  through  a  quagmire,  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance along  the  margin  of  the  bayou  :  by  binding  together  large  quantities  of 
reeds,  and  laying  them  across  the  mire  ;  in  the  course  of  nine  days,  these  parties 
had  constructed  someting  resembling  a  road  from  their  encampment  to  the  place 
of  debarkation.  Along  this  insecure  track  the  British  army  silently  stole  their 
march  in  the  night  of  the  18th  of  January.  By  the  treading  of  the  first  corps, 
the  bundles  of  reeds  gave  way,  and  their  followers  had  to  wade  up  to  their  knees 
in  mire.  Several  perished  in  the  sloughs,  the  darkness  of  the  night  preventing 
their  companions  from  affording  relief.  At  the  mouth  of  the  bayou  were  a  few 
huts,  which  afforded  shelter  for  fishermen  in  the  season  of  catching  fish  for  the 
New  Orleans  market ;  here  the  troops  halted  and  bivouacked  previous  to  their 
embarkation.  Their  provisions  being  exhausted,  a  few  crumbs  of  biscuit  and  a 
small  allowance  of  rum  was  their  only  support.  Here  they  were  80  miles  from 
their  ships,  the  whole  of  which  distance  they  had  to  traverse  in  small  open  boats ; 
and  having  but  few  of  these,  the  embarkation  occupied  ten  days.  On  the  27th, 
the  whole  land  and  naval  forces  which  remained  of  this  disastrous  expedition,  to 
their  great  joy,  found  themselves  on  board  their  ships.  Their  ranks  thinned, 
their  chiefs  and  many  of  their  companions  slain,  their  bodies  emaciated  with 
hunger,  fatigue,  and  sickness,  they  gladly  quitted  this  inauspicious  country.  The 
surviving  commanding  general  observes,  "  that  the  services  of  both  army  and 
navy,  since  their  landing  on  this  coast,  have  been  arduous  beyond  anything  he 
ever  before  witnessed,  and  difficulties  have  been  gotten  over  with  an  assiduity 
and  perseverance  beyond  example  by  all  ranks."  A  British  officer  of  distinction, 
an  actor  in  the  scene,  thus  describes  his  tour  from  the  encampment  to  the  em- 
barkation :  "  For  some  time  our  route  lay  along  the  high  road  beside  the  brink 
of  the  river,  and  was  agreeable  enough  ;  but  as  soon  as  we  began  to  enter  upon 
the  path  through  the  marsh,  all  comfort  was  at  an  end.  Being  constructed  of 
materials  so  slight,  and  resting  upon  a  foundation  so  infirm,  the  treading  of  the 
first  corps  unavoidably  beat  it  to  pieces :  those  which  followed  were  therefore 
compelled  to  flounder  on  in  the  best  way  they  could  ;  and  by  the  time  the  rear 
of  the  column  gained  the  morass,  all  trace  of  a  way  had  entirely  disappeared. 
But  not  only  were  the  reeds  torn  asunder  and  sunk  by  the  pressure  of  those  who 
had  gone  before,  but  the  bog  itself,  which  at  first  might  have  furnished  a  few 
spots  of  firm  footing,  was  trodden  into  the  consistency  of  mud.  The  consequence 
was,  that  every  step  sunk  us  to  the  knees,  and  frequently  higher.  Near  the 
ditches,  indeed,  many  spots  occurred  which  we  had  the  utmost  difficulty  of  cross- 
ing at  all ;  and  as  the  night  was  dark,  there  being  no  moon,  nor  any  light,  except 


730  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

what  the  stars  supplied,  it  was  difficult  to  select  our  steps,  or  even  to  follow  those 
who  called  to  us  that  they  were  safe  on  the  other  side.  At  one  of  these  places,  I 
myself  beheld  an  unfortunate  wretch  gradually  sink,  until  he  totally  disappeared. 
I  saw  him  flounder  in,  heard  him  cry  for  help,  and  ran  forward  with  the  inten- 
tion of  saving  him  ;  but  before  I  had  taken  a  second  step,  I  myself  sunk  at  once 
as  high  as  the  breast.  I  could  feel  no  solid  bottom  under  me,  and  continued 
slowly  to  go  deeper  and  deeper  till  the  mud  reached  my  arms.  Instead  of  en- 
deavoring to  help  the  poor  soldier,  of  whom  nothing  now  could  be  seen  except 
the  head  and  hands,  I  was  forced  to  beg  assistance  for  myself,  when  a  leathern 
canteen  strap  being  thrown  me,  I  laid  hold  of  it,  and  was  dragged  out  just  as  my 
fellow-sufferer  became  invisible.  Over  roads  such  as  these  did  we  continue  our 
march  during  the  whole  of  the  night,  and  in  the  morning  arrived  at  a  place  called 
Fishermen's  huts,  consisting  of  a  clump  of  mud-built  cottages,  standing  by  the 
edge  of  the  water,  on  a  part  of  the  morass  rather  more  firm  than  the  rest.  Here 
we  were  ordered  to  halt ;  wearied  with  exertions  and  oppressed  with  want  of 
sleep,  I  threw  myself  on  the  ground  without  so  much  as  taking  off  my  muddy 
garments,  and  in  an  instant  all  cares  and  troubles  were  forgotten.  Nor  did  I 
awake  from  that  deep  slumber  for  many  hours  ;  when  I  arose,  cold  and  stiff,  and 
addressed  myself  to  the  last  morsel  of  salt  pork  my  wallet  contained.  Without 
tents  or  huts  of  any  description,  our  bed  was  the  morass,  and  our  only  covering 
the  clothes  which  had  not  quitted  our  backs  for  more  than  a  month ;  our  fires 
were  composed  solely  of  reeds,  which,  like  straw,  soon  blaze  up  and  expire 
again,  without  communicating  any  degree  of  warmth.  But,  above  all,  our  pro- 
visions were  expended,  and  from  what  quarter  an  immediate  supply  was  to  be 
obtained,  we  could  not  discover.  Our  sole  dependence  was  upon  the  boats.  Of 
these  a  flotilla  lay  ready  to  receive  us,  in  which  were  already  embarked  the  black 
corps  and  the  44th  ;  but  they  had  brought  with  them  only  food  for  their  own  use, 
it  was  therefore  necessary  that  they  should  reach  the  fleet  and  return  again  before 
we  could  be  supplied.  But  as  the  nearest  shipping  was  80  miles  distant,  and  the 
weather  might  become  boisterous,  or  the  winds  obstinate,  we  might  starve  before 
any  supply  could  arrive.  As  soon  as  the  boats  returned,  regiment  after  regiment 
embarked  and  set  sail  for  the  fleet ;  but  the  distance  being  considerable,  and  the 
wind  foul,  many  days  elapsed  before  the  whole  could  be  got  off;  by  the  end  of 
the  month,  we  were  all  once  more  on  board  our  former  ships." 


TEXAS. 

Area,      247,356  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860 604,215 

(Whites,  421,294 ;  Negroes,  182,921.) 

Population  in  1870, 818,579 

THE  State  of  Texas  lies  between  25°  50'  and  36°  30'  N.  latitude, 
and  between  93°  30'  and  107°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Indian  Territory  and  New  Mexico,  on  the  east  by  Ar- 
kansas, Louisiana,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  on  the  south  by  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  and  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Re- 
public of  Mexico  and  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico.  It  is  very  irregu- 
lar in  shape,  and  is  the  largest  of  the  States.  Its  extreme  length,  from 
northwest  to  southeast,  is  estimated  at  800  miles,  and  its  extreme  width, 
from  east  to  west,  at  750  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

"This  great  State  embraces  every  variety  of  surface,  mountain, 
plain,  hill,  and  desert  within  its  limits.  In  the  southeast,  along  the 
coast  is  a  level  belt  of  land,  from  30  to  60  miles  in  breadth,  which  is 
succeeded  by  an  undulating  and  prairie  country,  occupying  another 
belt  of  from  150  to  200  miles  in  width,  which  is  followed  in  the  west 
and  northwest  by  the  mountainous  region  and  the  table-land.  The 
extreme  north  is  invaded  by  the  Great  American  Desert,  which  ex- 
tends, perhaps,  about  60  miles  within  the  boundary  of  Texas.  Accord- 
ing to  Mr.  Bartlett,  the  pleateau  of  Texas,  including  part  of  New 
Mexico,  extends  from  30°  to  34°  N.  latitude,  and  from  the  Rio  Grande 
east  for  300  miles.  The  north  portion,  called  Llano  Estacado  or 
1  Staked  Plain/  is  2500  feet  above  the  sea.  This  broad  district  is  des- 

731 


732 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


ON  THE  GULF. 

* 

titute  of  forest  trees  and  shrubbery,  except  along  the  margins  of  the 
streams,  and  even  there  never  extending  100  yards  from  the  banks. 
Just  after  rains  a  short  stunted  grass  springs  up,  but  speedily  becomes 
dry,  affording  little  nourishment.  In  this  region  rise  the  Red,  Brazos, 
and  Colorado  rivers.  About  29°  30'  N.  latitude  the  table-land  breaks 
off  into  spurs,  which  descends  to  the  prairies.  The  rivers  have  gener- 
ally alluvial  bottoms  of  from  3  to  20  miles  in  width,  which  are  of 
great  fertility,  and  heavily  timbered.  The  belts  referred  to  above  run 
across  the  State  in  a  direction  nearly  northeast  and  southwest,  so  that 
almost  all  the  northern  part  of  Eastern  Texas  is  included  in  the 
second  division,  or  the  undulating  country.  Little  is  known  of  the  ele- 
vated lands  of  the  west  and  northwest,  as  they  are  yet  the  home  of  few 
white  men  except  the  hunters,  who  pursue  its  buffaloes  and  other  wild 


TEXAS.  733 

animals.  It  is,  however,  represented  as  being  a  well -watered  and  fertile 
region.  A  low  range  of  mountains,  called  the  Colorado  Hills,  runs 
in  a  northern  and  southern  direction,  east  of  the  Colorado  River; 
indeed,  the  whole  section  of  the  State  in  the  same  parallel,  between 
the  Colorado  and  the  Brazos  rivers,  is  broken  with  low  mountains. 
Between  the  Colorado  and  the  Rio  Grande,  and  north  of  the  sources 
of  the  Nueces  and  San  Antonio,  the  country  is  crossed  by  broken 
ranges  of  mountains,  running  in  various  directions,  but  of  whose 
altitude  and  character  we  have  little  reliable  information.  They 
appear,  however,  to  be  outlying  ridges  of  the  great  Rocky  Mountain 
chain.  Of  these  the  Organ,  Hueco  or  Waco,  and  Guadalupe  Moun- 
tains extend  from  the  northwestern  extremity  of  Texas,  where  they 
terminate,  in  a  northern  direction  into  New  Mexico.  According  to 
Bartlett,  the  first  are  about  3000  feet  above  the  Rio  Grande,  and  the 
last  the  same  altitude  above  the  plain. 

"  The  coast  of  Texas  is  lined  with  a  chain  of  low  islands,  which 
form  a  series  of  bays,  sounds,  and  lagoons;  the  most  important  of 
which  are  Galveston,  Matagorda,  Espiritu  Santo,  Aransas,  and  Cor- 
pus Christi  bays,  and  the  Laguna  del  Madre.  Commencing  at  Gal- 
veston Bay,  in  the  northeast,  they  lie  along  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in  the 
order  in  which  they  are  named.  Galveston  Bay,  the  largest  of  these, 
extends  about  35  miles  inland  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  a  direction 
nearly  north.  Matagorda  Bay,  60  miles  long  by  6  to  10  wide,  and 
Laguna  del  Madre,  90  miles  long  by  3  to  6  wide,  are  sounds  rather 
than  bays,  and  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  shore.  The  inlets  of 
these  are  much  obstructed  by  bars ;  Galveston  Inlet,  the  best,  is  said 
to  have  but  12  feet  water,  the  entrance  of  Matagorda  Bay  11  feet,  and 
that  of  San  Luis  but  10  feet.  Aransas  Bay  extends  in  a  northeastern 
and  southwestern  direction  about  25  miles,  by  about  12  miles  in  width ; 
Corpus  Christi  Bay,  40  miles  from  north  to  south,  by  20  miles  from 
east  to  west;  and  Espiritu  Santo  is  20  miles  long  by  10  wide; 
Copanb  Bay,  opening  into  Aransas,  is  20  miles  long  by  3  wide.  A 
writer  in  'De  Bow's  Resources  in  the  South  and  West/  however, 
says—*  Steamships  of  1200  to  1500  tons,  and  sail  vessels  of  1000  tons, 
can  enter  the  port  of  Galveston/  Texas  is  crossed  by  several  long 
rivers,  generally  rising  in  the  table-lands  of  the  west  and  northwest, 
and  pursuing  a  southeastern  course,  discharge  their  waters  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  Commencing  with  the  Rio  Grande,  the  largest  river 
in  Texas,  1800  miles  long,  and  which  forms  its  southwestern  bound- 
ary, and  proceeding  along  the  coast,  we  have  the  Nueces,  San  Antonio, 


734  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Guadalupe,  Colorado,  Brazos,  Trinity,  Neches,  and  Sabine,  whose 
lengths,  in  the  order  named,  are  about  300,  250,  275,  800,  500,  400, 
300,  and  350  miles,  as  estimated  by  measurements  on  the  map.  The 
Eed  River  rises  in  the  northwest  of  the  State,  and  forms  a  large 
part  of  the  northern  boundary  line.  The  Canadian,  a  branch  of  the 
Arkansas,  crosses  the  northern  projection  of  the  State.  All  of  these 
are  navigable  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  (depending  on  the  wetness 
or  dryness  of  the  season,  and  on  local  obstructions,)  the  Sabine  for 
about  150  miles;  the  Trinity,  to  Porter's  Bluffs,  latitude  32°  20'; 
the  San  Jacinto,  50  miles;  the  Brazos,  to  Sullivan's  Shoals,  near  lati- 
tude 31°  N. ;  the  Nueces,  100  miles;  the  Rio  Grande,  400  miles; 
and  the  Red  River,  to  Preston,  latitude  34°  N.,  and  longitude  96°  20' 
W. ;  (during  high  water.)  The  Colorado  is  obstructed  by  a  raft  10 
miles  from  its  mouth  ;  but  when  this  is  removed,  which  it  doubtless 
will  be  ere  long,  it  will  give  a  navigation  of  several  hundred  miles. 
There  are  a  number  of  small  rivers  or  tributaries,  navigable  to  some 
extent,  arid  besides  their  value  as  channels  of  commerce,  they  afford  in 
many  instances  excellent  sites  for  mill  seats.  There  are  no  known 
lakes  of  importance  in  Texas.  Sabine  Lake,  an  expansion  of  the  river 
of  that  name,  near  its  mouth,  20  miles  long,  is  on  the  boundary  of 
Texas  and  Louisiana.  There  is  a  salt  lake  near  the  Rio  Grande, 
from  which  large  quantities  of  salt  are  annually  taken."* 

MINERALS,  CLIMATE,  SOIL,  AND  PRODUCTS. 

The  Hon.  Henry  S.  Randall,  of  New  York,  in  a  paper  lately  con- 
tributed to  The  Rural  New  Yorker,  thus  describes  the  mineral  and 
agricultural  productions  of  the  State : 

"  GfeOLOGY. — The  lower  and  rolling  lands  are  alluvial.  The  hilly 
region  is  cretaceous,  and  abounds  in  excellent  limestone  for  building. 
Beyond  this,  primitive  rocks  appear  in  many  places.  The  great  plains 
consist  of  stratified  clay  and  cretaceous  marls.  On  the  verge  of  these 
plains  are  deposits  of  gypsum  extending  over  an  area  of  thousands  of 
square  miles.  Coal  beds  exist  in  different  localities.  Iron  ores  are 
found  in  inexhaustible  quantities  on  the  Llano  River,  and  they 
abound  on  tributaries  of  Red  River  in  northeastern  Texas.  Copper 
has  been  discovered  in  different  places,  and  also  specimens  of  the 
precious  metals.  The  mineral  regions  of  the  State  have  been  so  little 
explored,  that  the  extent  of  its  resources  in  this  respect  are  but  be- 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1905. 


TEXAS.  T35 

ginning  to  be  known.  Various  salt  springs  have  been  found,  and 
salt  of  good  quality,  produced  by  natural  evaporation,  can  be  obtained 
in  immense  if  not  inexhaustible  quantities  at  the  salt  lagunes  below 
Corpus  Christi,  and  at  the  salt  lake  in  Hidalgo  county,  forty  miles 
from  the  Rio  Grande. 

"  CLIMATE. — As  a  sample  of  the  climate,  we  give  the  mean  tem- 
perature of  every  month  in  the  year  1859,  as  observed  by  Professor 
C.  G.  Forshey,  in  Fayette  county,  on  the  Colorado,  in  latitude  30°  : 
January,  50°  57';  February,  62°  44';  March,  61°  50';  April,  65° 
31';  May,  75°  61';  June,  81°  56';  July,  84°  76' ;  August,  84°  90'; 
September,  79°  42' ;  October,  66°  29' ;  November,  63°  92' ;  Decem- 
ber, 43°  ;  annual  mean,  68°  04'. 

" '  In  point  of  climate/  says  Olmsted,  '  Texas  claims,  with  at  least 
as  much  justice  as  any  other  State,  to  be  called  the  Italy  of  America. 
The  general  average  of  temperature  corresponds,  and  the  skies  are 
equally  clear  and  glowing.  The  peculiarities  over  other  climates  of 
latitude  are  found  in  its  unwavering  summer  sea-breeze  and  its  winter 
northers.  The  first  is  a  delightful  alleviation  of  its  summer  heats, 
flowing  in  each  day  from  the  Gulf,  as  the  sun's  rays  become  oppres- 
sive, and  extending  remotely  inland  to  the  farthest  settlements,  with 
the  same  trustworthy  steadiness.  It  continues  through  the  evening, 
and  is  described  as  having  so  great  effect  that,  however  oppressive 
the  day  may  have  been,  the  nights  are  always  cool  enough  to  de- 
mand a  blanket  and  yield  invigorating  rest/ 

"The  severe  northers  occur  from  December  to  April,  and  usually 
occupy  not  much  over  40  days.  The  rapid  reduction  of  the  tempera- 
ture from  70  or  75  degrees,  to  30  or  40  degrees,  and  the  driving  wind, 
are  keenly  felt.  When  most  cold  and  violent,  and  accompanied  with 
rain  and  sleet,  they  sometimes  cause  considerable  destruction  among 
domestic  animals  exposed  to  their  fury.  These  instances,  however, 
are  rare,  and  the  shelter  of  a  grove  or  hill,  or  even  a  good  farm  wall, 
is  sufficient  to  prevent  such  consequences.  They  are  regarded  as 
healthful  and  invigorating,  and,  notwithstanding  the  sudden  change 
of  temperature  accompanying  them,  do  not  cause,  or  even  exasperate, 
pulmonary  diseases.  It  is  claimed  that  consumption  does  not  origi- 
nate in  the  region  where  they  prevail. 

"As  in  all  new,  warm,  and  highly  fertile  countries,  the  low,  rich 
river  bottoms — especially  those  of  southern  Texas,  which  are  covered 
with  a  boundless  profusion  of  semi-tropical  vegetation — are  not 
healthy  to  unacclimated  persons.  The  higher  lands  between  those 


736  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

rivers  are  usually  considered  healthy,  where  judicious  dispositions  are 
made  by  the  emigrant ;  but  the  Northern  emigrant  runs  some  risk  of 
undergoing  a  'seasoning'  course  of  chills  and  fever.  The  hilly 
regions  of  the  west  are  as  free  from  malaria  as  any  other  new  countries 
we  ever  heard  of — far  more  so,  we  judge,  than  were  large  portions  of 
Ohio,  Illinois,  and  Michigan,  when  first  settled.  We  have  known  of 
hundreds  of  people  from  the  Northern,  Middle,  and  Western  States, 
who  have  emigrated  to  the  sheep-region,  presently  to  be  described, 
and  we  scarcely  remember  of  hearing  of  one  who  incurred  any  disease 
in  the  process  of  acclimation.  Great  numbers  of  invalids,  especially 
of  consumptive  invalids,  from  the  older  Southern  States,  resort  to  the 
region  around  San  Antonio  for  the  improvement  of  their  health.  The 
native  Mexicans  used  to  tell  a  story  in  regard  to  its  healthful  ness 
which  has  a  regular  Yankee  smack  to  it.  They  said  some  travellers 
approaching  San  Antonio  met  three  disconsolate  looking  persons  who 
were  hastening  away  from  the  city.  They  asked  them  what  was  the 
matter,  and  where  they  were  going.  The  three  disconsolate  looking 
persons  replied  that  they  had  met  with  reverses,  that  they  wished  to 
die,  and  were  going  to  some  place  where  people  could  die. 

"Yellow  fever  is  imported  into  the  coast  towns,  as  it  is  imported 
into  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  but  it  does  not  originate  in  them. 
Its  ravages,  as  would  be  expected  in  such  a  climate,  are  sometimes 
severe;  but  it  does  not  penetrate  into  the  hilly  region  any  more  than 
it  penetrates  into  the  interior  of  New  York  or  Pennsylvania. 

"  SOILS  AND  PRODUCTS. — In  the  north,  the  rich,  black  soil  is  espe- 
cially adapted  to  thft  production  of  wheat,  yielding  in  ordinary  sea- 
sons, and  under  the  very  imperfect  cultivation  it  receives,  an  average 
of  21  bushels  to  the  acre.  It  is  of  superior  quality,  and  very  heavy — 
in  occasional  instances  reaching  72  pounds  to  the  bushel.  The  wheat 
region  proper  embraces  about  30  counties,  of  which  Dallas  is  the  centre. 

"The  eastern  counties,  unlike  the  rest  of  the  State,  were  covered  by 
forests.  The  most  northerly  of  these  are  highly  adapted  to  a  diversi- 
fied husbandry The  southeastern  and  central  southern  counties 

are  the  most  fertile  in  Texas,  and  include  the  best  cotton-growing 
region  of  anything  like  an  equal  area  in  the  world.  The  cotton 
counties  proper  constitute  about  one-third  of  the  State.  ....  Sugar 
has  been  produced  to  considerable  extent  near  the  mouths  of  the 
Brazos  and  Colorado.  The  soil  of  western  Texas,  exclusive  of  the 
barren  region  between  the  Nueces  and  the  Rio  Grande,  consists  gen- 
erally of  black,  calcareous  loam,  and  its  pasturages  are  probably  un- 
equalled by  any  other  natural  ones  in  the  world 


TEXAS.  737 

.  .  .  .  "  Corn,  wheat,  oats,  rye,  barley,  buckwheat,  millet,  sorghum, 
Irish  potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  peas,  beans,  turnips,  pumpkins,  and  gar- 
den vegetables  of  every  kind,  produce  remunerative,  and  some  of  them 
abundant,  crops  on  all  the  good  soils  of  the  State,  and  from  many  of 
them  two  crops  might  be  taken  in  a  season.  Fruits  can  be  grown  in 
boundless  profusion Horses,  neat  cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs  re- 
quire so  little  artificial  food  that  they  can  be  raised  at  the  most  trifling 
expense." 

In  1869  there  were  2,650,781  acres  of  improved  land  in  the  State. 
The  returns  for  the  same  year  were  as  follows : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 1,250,000 

Indian  corn, 23,000,000 

peas  and  beans, 341,961 

"           sweet  potatoes  (estimated),  ....  1,500,000 

oats, 1,250,000 

Bales  of  cotton, 465,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 5,850,583 

Number  of  horses, 600,000 

asses  and  mules,  . 93,800 

milch  cows, 640,320 

u            sheep, • 998,972 

swine, 1,580,600 

"            young  cattle, 2,540,300 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $49,825,447 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Texas  has  a  large  and  profitable  trade  with  the  Northern  States, 
and  with  Mexico,  and  some  European  commerce.  In  1860  the  ex- 
ports of  the  State  amounted  to  $6,783,934,  and  the  imports  to  $2,- 
436,408. 

Manufactures  receive  but  little  attention.  In  1860  the  capital 
invested  in  them  amounted  to  $3,850,000.  The  annual  product  was 
valued  at  $6,250,000.  *. 

INTERNAL   IMPROVEMENTS. 

Considering  that  Texas  was  but  recently  settled,  and  that  it  is  still 
very  sparsely  populated,  we  must  admit  that  it  has  made  very  decided 
progress  in  internal  improvements.  Good' roads  connect  the  various 
parts  of  the  State,  and  there  is  railroad  communication  between  Madison, 
on  the  Sabine  River,  and  Houston,  Austin,  and  Galveston.  A  rail- 
road is  in  progress  across  southern  Louisiana,  from  the  Sabine  River 
47 


738  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

to  New  Orleans.     In  1872  the  State  contained  865  miles  of  railroad, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  $30,000,000. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  Texas  contained  8  colleges,  with  588  students;  527  acade- 
mies and  other  schools,  with  over  20,000  pupils;  and  13  public 
schools  with  800  pupils.  There  was  a  Board  of  Education  for 
the  State,  which  controlled  the  system.  The  Superintendent  of 
Public  Instruction,  in  1868,  wrote  as  follows  concerning  the  schools 
of  his  Slate:  "There  is  no  school  system  in  Texas,  and  the  school 
fund  which  had  been  accumulating,  was  mainly  ruined  and  dissipated 
by  the  war.  A  plan  for  free  schools,  in  essentials  similar  to  the 
systems  of  the  States  of  the  North  and  West,  has  been  submitted  to 
the  Reconstruction  Committee,  now  in  session,  and  strong  hopes  are 
entertained  of  its  adoption.  The  number  of  children  who  should  be 
at  school  in  Texas,  exceeds  200,000 ;  the  number  actually  enjoying 
school  privileges  is  about  20,000." 

Since  1868  a  public  school  system  similar  to  that  of  the  other  States 
has  been  adopted,  but  had  not  gone  into  operation  in  1870.  The 
permanent  school  fund  of  the  State  amounts  to  $2,575,000,  nearly  all 
of  which  is  available. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Huntsville.  It  was  erected  in 
1848.  We  have  no  recent  returns  from  it. 

The  Texas  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  located  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Colorado  River,  opposite  the  city  of  Austin.  It  is  in 
great  need  of  suitable  buildings,  and  is  sadly  embarrassed  by  the 
unsettled  condition  of  the  State.  In  1868  it  contained  22  pupils. 

There  are  also  a  Blind  Asylum  and  a  State  Lunatic  Asylum  in  opera- 
tion, both  of  which  are  supported  by  the  State. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870  there  were  647  churches  in  Texas,  and  the  value  of  church 
property  was  $1,035,430. 

FINANCES. 

The  finances  of  Texas  are  in  a  prosperous  condition.  The  State  debt 
in  1870  amounted  to  about  $360,000,  a  mere  trifle.  On  the  3d  of 


TEXAS.  739 

September,  1867,  there  was  a  balance  of  $20,232  in  the  Treasury. 
The  receipts  from  that  date  to  April  16th,  1870,  were  $1,384*190, 
and  the  expenditures  for  the  same  period,  $1,024,891,  leaving  an 
unexpended  balance  in  the  Treasury  of  $379,531.  Adding  the 
balance  of  the  Convention  fund  still  on  hand,  the  cash  balance  in  the 
Treasury  amounted  to  $416,709. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Until  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1869,  the  State  constituted  a  part 
of  the  Fifth  Military  District.  Between  the  30th  of  November,  and 
3d  of  December,  1869,  the  people  by  their  votes  ratified  the  new 
Constitution,  and  on  the  30th  of  March,  1870,  the  State  was  readmit- 
ted into  the  Union. 

By  the  terms  of  the  new  Constitution,  every  male  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  21  years  of  age,  except  criminals,  lunatics,  and  Indians 
not  taxed,  without  regard  to  race,  color,  or  previous  condition,  who 
has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  in  the  county  six  months,  is 
entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Go vernor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  and  Comptroller;  and  a  Legislature, 
consisting  of  a  Senate  of  30  members,  and  a  House  of  Representatives 
of  90  members,  all  elected  by  the  people. 

The  highest  judicial  tribunal  is  the  Supreme  Court,  consisting  of 
three  judges.  The  State  is  divided  into  35  judicial  districts,  for  each 
of  which,  a  District  Judge  is  elected,  who  is  required  to  hold  three 
terms  of  his  court  annually,  in  each  county  of  his  district.  There  are 
also  Justices  of  the  Peace,  with  jurisdiction  in  petty  cases,  who  try 
causes  by  themselves,  or  with  a  jury  of  6  men. 

For  the  purpose  of  repressing  crime  and  lawlessness,  there  is  a  State 
police  force,  consisting  of  4  captains,  8  lieutenants,  20  sergeants,  and 
225  privates.  The  Adjutant-General  of  the  State  acts  as  Chief  of 
this  police.  All  sheriffs,  their  deputies,  constables,  marshals  of 
cities  and  towns,  their  deputies,  and  the  police  of  cities  and  towns,  are 
made  ex-officio  members  of  this  force,  .and  as  such  are  at  all  times 
subject  to  the  orders  of  the  Governor,  or  of*  the  Adjutant-General,  for 
the  purpose  of  preventing  crime  or  arresting  offenders.  The  chief 
and  the  whole  force  are  subject  to  the  orders  of  the  Governor.  For 
the  protection  of  the  settlers  against  the  Indians,  companies  of  rangers 
are  maintained  on  the  frontier,  at  the  expense  of  the  State.  Home- 


740  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

steads  of  not  more  than  200  acres  in  the  country,  and  a  lot  or  lots  not 
in  a  village  or  town  exceeding  $5000  in  value,  exclusive  of  the  value 
of  the  improvements,  are  exempted  from  executions  for  debt.  Liberal 
inducements  in  offers  of  land  are  held  out  to  actual  settlers.  The 
lands  thus  offered  are  among  the  finest  jn  the  State. 

For  purposes  of  Government  the  State  is  divided  into  124  counties. 
The  seat  of  government  is  located  at  Austin. 

HISTORY. 

Texas  was  first  settled  by  a  colony  of  French  under  La  Salle.  It 
was  the  intention  of  the  leader  of  this  expedition  to  found  a  colony 
near  the  month  of  the  Mississippi,  but  sailing  past  it  through  mistake, 
he  entered  Matagorda  Bay,  and  ascended  the  Lavaca  for  five  or  six 
miles,  where  he  built  Fort  St.  Louis,  about  the  year  1686.  After 
enduring  many  hardships,  he  was  murdered  by  his  men  on  the  20th  of 
March,  1687.  When  the  Indians  heard  of  his  death,  they  attacked 
the  fort,  the  garrison  of  which  had  been  much  reduced  by  quarrels 
among  themselves,  captured  it,  and  killed  all  its  defenders  but  four, 
whom  they  carried  into  captivity.  In  April,  1689,  a  Spanish  expedi- 
tion arrived  in  Matagorda  Bay  for  the  purpose  of  driving  away  the 
French,  but  found  the  fort  destroyed.  A  few  years  later  several 
settlements  were  made  in  Texas  by  the  Spaniards,  but  in  consequence 
of  the  hostilities  of  the  Indians,  they  abandoned  them.  In  1712, 
Louis  XIY.  of  France,  granted  the  province,  which  he  claimed,  to 
Crozat,  to  whom  he  had  granted  Louisiana.  This  act  so  alarmed  the 
Spanish  authorities  in  Mexico  that  they  at  once  made  numerous 
settlements  in  Texas,  in  order  to  secure  the  territory  in  advance  of 
the  French,  who  in  1721  made  an  unsuccessful  effort  to  expel  them. 
In  1728,  400  families  were  sent  out  to  Texas  from  the  Canary  Isles 
by  the  Spanish  Government,  and  were  joined  in  that  country  by 
others  from  Mexico.  These  settlers  founded  the  city  of  San  Antonio. 
The  Indians  of  Texas  and  Louisiana  proved  very  troublesome  for 
some  time,  but  were  defeated  in  a  great  battle  by  the  Spaniards,  in 
1732,  and  quieted  for  some  years.  During  the  American  Revolution, 
the  authorities  of  Texas,  after  the  declaration  of  war  against  England 
by  Spain  in  1779,  carried  on  active  hostilities  against  the  British  on 
the  Mississippi.  During  this  period  prosperous  trade  was  carried  on 
vid  Nacogdoches,  between  the  Spanish  settlement  of  Natchez,  in 
Mississippi,  and  the  interior  of  Texas,  and  was  finally  the  means  of 
making  this  State  known  to  the  Americans. 


TEXAS.  741 

In  1803  Louisiana  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  United  States,  and 
in  1819,  a  treaty  between  this  country  and  Spain,  fixed  the  Sabine 
River  as  the  eastern  boundary  of  Texas  upon  the  Gulf.  In  1806, 
the  population  numbered  7000  souls,  a  number  of  whom  were 
Americans. 

"  West  of  the  Sabine  was  a  tract  called  the  '  Neutral  Ground/ 
which  was  occupied  by  bands  of  outlaws  and  desperate  men,  who 
lived  as  buccaneers,  by  robbery  and  plunder,  perpetrated  upon  the 
traders.  The  Spanish  authorities  had  endeavored  to  expel  them,  but 
could  not.  The  United  States  sent  a  force  against  them,  and  drove 
them  away ;  but  they  returned  again,  and  renewed  their  depredations. 
About  this  time,  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Magee,  a  native  of  Massachusetts, 
who  had  commanded  an  expedition  against  these  outlaws,  conceived 
the  idea  of  conquering  Texas  to  the  Eio  Grande,  and  establishing  a 
republican  Government.  The  enterprise  was  undertaken  in  the  name 
of  Don  Bernardo  Gutierres,  though  Magee  was  in  reality  at  the  head 
of  the  movement.  The  freebooters  of  the  neutral  ground  joined  his 
standard,  in  June,  1812.  The  civil  war  at  this  time  raging  in  Mexico 
favored  the  designs  of  Magee,  who  had  with  him  nearly  every  able- 
bodied  man  cast  of  the  Trinity.  He  crossed  the  Colorado  with  about 
800  men.  At  this  point,  he  learned  that  Salcedo,  the  royalist  Gov- 
ernor of  Texas,  had  come  out  against  him  as  far  as  the  Guadalupe, 
with  1400  men,  where  he  lay  in  ambush.  Magee  then  made  a  forced 
march,  and  reached  La  Bahia  on  the*  14th  of  November,  which  was 
surrendered  to  him  with  but  little  opposition.  Here  Magee  was  be- 
sieged by  Salcedo  for  three  weeks.  Previous  to  the  last  assault,  Ma- 
gee agreed  to  deliver  up  the  fort  and  return  home.  When  this  agree- 
ment was  made  known  to  the  army,  it  was  unanimously  voted  down. 
Major  Kemper,  the  next  in  command,  took  the  lead.  Magee,  deeply 
mortified,  retired  to  his  tent,  and,  it  is  said,  died  by  hisjown  hand  a 
little  after  midnight.  The  Spaniards  withdrew  to  San  Antonio,  after 
having  continued  the  siege  till  the  12th  of  March,  1813. 

"  The  Americans,  being  reinforced,  marched  on  San  Antonio. 
When  within  about  nine  miles  of  that  place,  they  came  upon  the 
Spanish  army,  under  Governor  Salcedo,  about  2500  strong,  being 
about  double  the  number  of  the  Americans.  The  battle  of  Rosalia 
ensued,  nearly  1000  of  the  Spaniards  were  slain,  and  some  few  taken 
prisoners.  The  next  day,  Governor  Salcedo  surrendered,  and  being 
put  in  charge  of  a  company  of  Bexar  Mexicans  to  be  transported  to 
New  Orleans,  lie,  with  13  other  officers,  among  whom  was  ex-Go v- 


742  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ernors  Herrera  and  Cordero,  were  taken  to  the  bank  of  the  river  below 
the  town,  where  they  were  stripped  and  tied,  and  their  throats  cut! 
Colonel  Kemper,  Major  Ross,  and  others,  being  disgusted  with  such 
treachery  and  barbarity,  left  the  army  and  returned  home.  Captain 
Perry  now  took  the  command,  and  on  the  night  of  June  4th,  attacked 
and  routed  an  army  of  over  2000  sent  against  them.  Tiie  repub- 
licans, however,  were  finally  defeated  by  another  army,  under  General 
Arredondo,  on  the  Medina,  with  great  slaughter.  Only  93  Americans 
reached  Natchitoches,  among  whom  were  Colonel  Perry  and  Captains 
Taylor  and  Ballard.  The  Spaniards  being  successful,  in  revenge, 
committed  horrid  attrocities  upon  the  friends  of  the  republican  party. 
Thus  ended  the  first  effort  at  Texan  independence. 

"In  February,  1819,  in  a  treaty  with  Spain,  the  Floridas  were 
ceded  to  the  United  States,  and  the  Sabine  agreed  upon  as  the  boun- 
dary of  the  Spanish  possessions.  Texas  thus  being  relinquished  for 
Florida,  a  far  less  valuable  territory,  gave  much  dissatisfaction  to  the 
southern  portion  of  the  people  of  the  United  States.  Early  in  1819, 
Dr.  James  Long  raised  a  company  in  Natchez,  of  75  men,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Nacogdoches,  and  on  his  arrival,  being  joined  by  Colonel 
Davenport  and  Bernardo  Gutierres,  his  command  was  increased  to 
300.  A  provisional  Government  was  then  formed,  and  Texas  was 
declared  to  be  a  l  free  and  independent  republic.'  They  also  enacted 
laws,  and  fixed  the  price  of  lands,  those  on  Red  River  being  estimated 
at  a  dollar  per  acre.  They  also  established  the  first  printing  office, 
Horatio  Bigelow  being  the  editor  of  the  paper.  General  Long  posted 
a  few  troops  at  the  crossing  of  the  Trinity,  the  falls  of  the  Brazos,  and 
at  other  places ;  he  also  dispatched  Colonel  Gaines  to  Galveston,  in 
order  to  obtain  the  cooperation  of  Lafitte,  the  freebooter,  in  the  revo- 
lution. This  was  declined,  Lafitte  stating  the  forces  were  entirely 
inadequate  for  the  purpose.  Meantime,  the  royalists,  under  Colonel 
Parez,  came  and  took  the  post  on  the  Brazos,  with  11  prisoners,  Octo- 
ber llth,  1819,  and  on  the  15th  they  took  La  Bahia  (now  Goliad), 
and  afterwards  the  post  on  the  Trinity,  and  then  proceeded  to  Nacog- 
doches, General  Long  and  his  men  having  barely  made  their  escape 
to  the  Sabine.  Parez  proceeded  to  Cooshattie  village,  and  about  40 
miles  below  that  place,  after  a  severe  conflict  with  the  republicans, 
routed  them.  The  latter  fled  to  Bolivar  Point,  near  Galveston,  where 
General  Long  afterwards  joined  them. 

"  General  Long  appears  to  have  continued  his  head-quarters  at  Boli- 
var Point  for  some  time;  meanwhile  Lafitte  was  obliged  to  leave  Gal- 


TEXAS.  743 

veston.  On  the  day  on  which  he  left,  General  Long,  with  Colonel  Milam 
and  others,  came  over  from  Bolivar  Point  and  dined  with  Lafitte.  Soon 
after,  Long,  Milam,  and  Trespalacios,  collecting  their  forces,  sailed 
with  them  down  the  coast.  General  Long  landed  near  the  month  of  the 
San  Antonio,  and  proceeding  with  a  party  took  possession  of  La  Ba- 
hia.  Milam  and  Trespalacios  soon  after  went  to  Mexico,  in  order  to 
raise  funds  from  the  Republican  Government,  for  at  this  time  the 
revolutionary  cause  was  gaining  ground  in  Mexico.  Notwithstanding 
this,  it  appears  that  the  royalists  succeeded  in  capturing  General  Long 
soon  after,  when  he  was  sent  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  then  set  at 
liberty,  and  finally  assassinated.  The  wife  of  General  Long,  who  re- 
mained at  Bolivar  Point  during  the  absence  of  her  husband,  having 
heard  of  his  death,  returned  to  her  friends  in  the  United  States. 

"  In  December,  1820,  Moses  Austin,  a  native  of  Connecticut,  but  for 
some  time  a  resident  of  Missouri,  set  out  for  San  Antonio  de  Bexar, 
to  solicit  the  sanction  of  the  Government,  and  to  procure  a  tract  of 
land,  for  the  settlement  of  an  Anglo-American  colony  in  Texas.  On 
presenting  himself  to  the  Governor,  he  was,  according  to  the  Spanish 
regulations  respecting  foreigners,  ordered  to  leave  the  province  im- 
mediately. On  crossing  the  public  square,  he  accidentally  met  the 
Baron  de  Bastrop,  with  whom  he  had  a  slight  acquaintance  in  the 
United  States,  many  years  before.  By  his  influence  he  obtained  a 
second  interview  with  the  Governor,  the  result  of  which  was  that  his 
petition  to  introduce  300  American  families  into  Texas  was  recom- 
mended and  forwarded  to  the  proper  authorities  in  Mexico.  It  was 
granted  in  January,  1821.  Mr.  Austin  returned  before  its  fate  was 
known,  and  died  shortly  afterward.  He  left  special  injunctions  to  his 
son,  Stephen  F.  Austin,  to  carry  out  his  cherished  plan  to  establish  a 
colony. 

"On  July  21,  1821,  Stephen  F.  Austin,  accompanied  by  Senor  Se- 
guin  and  seventeen  pioneers,  entered  the  wilderness  of  Texas  to  lay 
the  foundation  of  her  present  prosperity.  He  explored  various  parts, 
and  after  meeting  with  losses  and  difficulties,  located  his  colony  on 
the  Brazos.  Austin  soon  repaired  to  San  Antonio,  to  report  to  the 
Governor,  who  appears  to  have  been  friendly  to  the  enterprise.  When 
he  arrived  there,  in  March,  1822,  he  learned,  with  much  regret,  that 
it  was  necessary  to  make  a  journey  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  to  procure 
a  grant  from  the  supreme  authorities.  On  the  29th  of  April  ensuing, 
Colonel  Austin  arrived  in  Mexico,  and  .succeeded  in  obtaining  from 
Iturbide,  then  emperor,  a  confirmation  of  the  grant  made  to  his  father. 


744  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

When  about  to  return  to  Texas,  Iturbide  was  overthrown,  and  his  acts 
declared  null  and  void.  Austin  was  again  obliged  to  apply  to  the 
reigning  authorities,  who  renewed  the  grant,  and  in  effect  clothed  him 
with  almost  sovereign  power.  In  conjunction  with  Baron  Bastrop, 
Austin  fixed  his  colonial  capital  on  the  Brazos,  calling  it  /San  Felipe 
de  Austin. 

11  When  the  Mexican  Government,  in  1825,  abolished  slavery  within 
her  limits,  most  of  the  settlers  in  Texas  being  planters  from  the 
Southern  States,  who  had  brought  their  slaves  with  them,  felt  them- 
selves aggrieved,  and  petitioned  the  Mexican  congress  in  vain  for  re- 
lief. On  the  establishment  of  Centralism,  under  Santa  Anna,  Texas, 
in  1835,  declared  her  independence.  In  1836,  Santa  Anna,  President  of 
Mexico,  with  a  force  of  several  thousand  men,  moved  forward,  threat- 
ening to  exterminate  the  Americans,  or  to  drive  them  from  the  soil  of 
Texas.  In  March,  San  Antonio  de  Bexar  was  besieged  ;  the  Alamo 
there,  defended  by  only  187  Americans,  was  carried  by  storm,  and  all 
slain ;  among  them  were  Colonel  Travis,  Colonel  David  Crockett  and 
Colonel  Bowie,  the  inventor  of  the  bowie-knife.  While  Santa  Anna  was 
engaged  at  San  Antonio,  General  Urrea  marched  upon  Goliad.  He  had 
a  severe  contest  with  Colonel  Fannin's  troops,  who,  on  March  20th, 
surrendered  themselves  as  prisoners  of  war.  Nine  days  afterward  the 
Texan  prisoners,  to  the  number  of  330,  were  led  out  and  massacred 
in  cold  blood. 

"On  the  7th  of  April,  1836,  Santa  Anna  arrived  at  San  Felipe 
with  the  divisions  of  Sesma  and  Tolsa.  He  proceeded  down  the  west 
bank  of  the  Brazos,  crossed  the  river  at  Richmond,  and  on  the  16th 
reached  Harrisburg.  The  Texans,  under  General  Houston,  now  reduced 
to  less  than  800  men,  retiring  before  his  advance,  proceeded  down  the 
bank  of  the  Buffalo  Bayou,  and  took  a  position  near  the  liiver  San 
Jacinto.  On  the  21st  of  April,  1836,  Santa  Anna,  with  a  force  of  over 
1700  men,  being  encamped  near  General  Houston,  was  attacked  by  the 
Texans.  When  within  about  600  yards,  the  Mexican  line  opened 
their  fire  upon  them,  but  the  Texans,  nothing  daunted,  pressed  on  to 
a  close  conflict,  which  lasted  about  18  minutes,  when  the  enemy  gave 
way,  and  were  totally  routed,  nearly  every  man  was  either  killed, 
wounded,  or  taken  prisoner.  The  Texan  loss  was  but  2  killed,  and 
23  wounded.  -This  victory  secured  the  independence  of  Texas. 

"In  1841,  President  Lamar  organized  what  has  been  termed  the 
'  Santa  Fe  Expedition/ the  object  of  which  was  to  open  trade  with 
Santa  Fe,  and  to  establish  Texan  authority,  in  accordance  with  the 


TEXAS.  745 

treaty  of  Santa  Anna,  over  all  the  territory  east  of  the  Rio  Grande. 
Santa  Fe,  lying  east  of  that  river,  was  still  in  possession  of  the  Mexi- 
cans. On  the  18th  of  June,  the  expedition,  numbering  325  men,  under 
General  M'Leod,  left  Austin,  the  capital  of  Texas,  and  after  a  journey 
of  about  three  months,  arrived  at  the  Spanish  settlements  in  New 
Mexico.  They  were  intercepted  by  a  vastly  superior  force,  and  sur- 
rendered on  condition  of  their  being  allowed  to  return ;  but  instead 
of  this,  they  were  bound  with  ropes  and  leather  thongs,  in  gangs  of 
six  or  eight,  stripped  of  most  of  their  clothing,  and  marched  to  the 
city  of  Mexico,  a  distance  of  1200  miles.  On  their  route,  they  were 
treated  with  cruelty,  beaten,  and  insulted;  forced  to  march  at  times 
by  night  as  well  as  by  day;  blinded  by  sand,  parched  by  thirst,  and 
famishing  with  hunger. 

"  Having  arrived  at  Mexico  in  the  latter  part  of  December,  they 
were,  by  the  orders  of  Santa  Anna,  thrown  into  filthy  prisons.  After 
a  while,  part  were  compelled  to  labor  as  common  scavengers  in  the 
streets  of  the  city ;  while  others  were  sent  to  the  stone  quarries  of 
Pueblo,  where,  under  brutal  taskmasters,  they  labored  with  heavy 
chains  fastened  to  their  limbs.  Of  the  whole  number,  three  were 
murdered  on  the  march  ;  several  died  of  ill-treatment  and  hardship  ; 
some  few  escaped,  some  were  pardoned,  and  nearly  all  eventually  re- 
leased. 

"  Soon  after  the  result  of  this  expedition  was  known,  rumors  pre- 
vailed of  an  intended  invasion  of  Texas.  In  September,  1842,  1200 
Mexicans,  under  General  Woll,  took  the  town  of  Bexar;  but  subse- 
quently retreated  beyond  the  Rio  Grande.  A  Texan  army  was  collec- 
ted, who  were  zealous  to  carry  the  war  into  Mexico.  After  various 
disappointments  and  the  return  of  most  of  the  volunteers,  300 
Texans  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  and  attacked  the  town  of  Mier,  which 
was  garrisoned  by  more  than  2000  Mexicans  strongly  posted.  In  a 
dark,  rainy  night,  they  drove  in  the  guard,  and  in  spite  of  a  constant 
fire  of  the  enemy,  effected  a  lodgment  in  some  houses  in  the  suburbs, 
and  with  the  aid  of  the  deadly  rifle  fought  their  way  into  the  heart 
of  the  place.  At  length,  Ampudia  sent  a  white  flag,  which  was  accom- 
panied by  General  La  Vega  and  other  officers,  to  inform  the  Texans 
of  the  utter  hopelessness  of  resistance  against  an  enemy  ten  times  their 
number.  The  little  band  at  length  very  reluctantly  surrendered, 
after  a  loss  of  only  35  in  killed  and  wounded,  while  the  Mexicans 
admitted  theirs  to  have  been  over  500. 

"  The  Texans,  contrary  to  the  stipulations,  were  marched  to  Mexico, 


746  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

distant  1000  miles.  On  one  occasion,  214  of  them,  although  un- 
armed, rose  upon  their  guard  of  over  300  men,  overpowered  and 
dispersed  them,  and  commenced  their  journey  homeward ;  but  igno- 
rant of  the  country  and  destitute  of  provisions,  and  being  pursued  by 
a  large  party,  they  were  obliged  to  surrender.  Every  tenth  man  was 
shot  for  this  attempt  at  escape.  The  others  were  thrown  into  the 
dungeons  of  Perote,  where  about  30  died  of  cruel  treatment.  A  few 
escaped,  and  the  remainder  were  eventually  released. 

"Early  application  was  made  by  Texas  to  be  annexed  to  the 
United  States.  Several  years  passed  over  without  any  serious  attempts 
having  been  made  by  Mexico  to  regain  Texas,  and  the  political  free- 
dom of  the  country  was  thus  considered  as  established.  Presidents 
Jackson  and  Van  Buren,  in  turn,  objected  on  the  ground  of  the  un- 
settled boundary  of  Texas,  and  the  peaceful  relations  with  Mexico. 
President  Tyler  brought  forward  the  measure,  but  it  was  lost  in  Con- 
gress. It  having  been  the  test  question  in  the  ensuing  Presidential 
election,  and  the  people  deciding  in  its  favor  by  the  election  of  the 
Democratic  candidates,  Texas  was  annexed  to  the  Union  by  a  joint 
resolution  of  Congress,  February  28,  1845. 

"The  Mexican  Minister,  Almonte,  who  had  before  announced  that 
Mexico  would  declare  war  if  Texas  was  annexed,  gave  notice  that 
since  America  had  consummated  'the  most  unjust  act  in  her  history/ 
negotiations  were  at  an  end. 

"War  with  Mexico  then  ensued.  The  theatre  of  Avar  in  this  State 
was  on  the  Rio  Grande.  General  Taylor,  with  the  American  troops, 
routed  the  Mexicans  on-  the  soil  of  Texas,  at  Palo  Alto  and  Resaca 
de  la  Palma,  and  the  arms  of  the  United  States  were  everywhere 
triumphant.  The  State  Government  was  organized  on  the  19th  of 
February,  1846.  The  boundary  between  New  Mexico  and  Texas, 
the  latter  of  which  claimed  the  line  of  the  Rio  Grande,  was  adjusted 
by  treaty  in  1850. 

"The  joint  resolution  by  which  Texas  was  annexed  to  the  Union 
gives  permission  for  the  erection  of  four  additional  States  from  its 
territory,  and  in  these  words — '  New  States,  not  exceeding  four  in 
number,  in  addition  to  said  State  of  Texas,  and  having  sufficient 
population,  may  hereafter,  by  the  consent  of  said  State,  be  formed 
out  of  the  territory  thereof,  which  shall  be  entitled  to  admission  un- 
der the  provisions  of  the  Federal  Constitution/  "  * 


Barber's  History  of  All  the  Western  States. 


TEXAS.  747 

On  the  5th  of  February,  1861,  the  State  seceded  from  the  Union, 
and  joined  the  Southern  Confederacy.  During  the  war  it  had  com- 
parative exemption  from  hostilities,  except  along  the  coast,  where 
considerable  suffering  was  experienced.  At  the  close  of  the  war  a 
Provisional  Government  was  erected,  but  was  repudiated  by  Congress, 
and  in  1867  the  State  was  made  apart  of  the  5th  Military  District, 
and  continued  under  military  rule  until  March,  1870,  when  it  was 
readmitted  into  the  Union. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Galveston,  Houston,  San  An- 
tonio, Brownsville,  and  New  Braunfels. 

AUSTIN, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  beautifully  situated  in  Travis  county,  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Colorado,  about  200  miles,  by  land,  from  its 
mouth,  230  miles  west-northwest  of  Galveston,  and  about  1420  miles 
southwest  of  Washington.  Latitude  30°  15'  N. ;  longitude  97°  47'  W. 
The  city  is  built  on  a  plain  elevated  about  40  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
river.  It  is  well  built,  but  owes  its  importance  entirely  to  its  being 
the  seat  of  the  State  Government.  The  Colorado  is  navigable  to 
Austin  during  the  winter  months,  which  constitute  the  season  of 

O  * 


navigation. 


The  city  contains  the  public  buildings  of  the  State.  The  Capitol 
stands  on  an  eminence  at  the  head  of  Congress  avenue,  the  main 
street  of  the  city.  It  is  a  handsome  building,  and  is  constructed  of 
an  oolite,  of  a  soft  white  color.  It  is  built  in  the  Ionic  style  of 
architecture.  The  Governor's  House  is  a  plain  edifice  of  brick,  on  an 
eminence  about  300  yards  from  the  capitol.  The  Treasury  Depart- 
ment, Land  Office,  arid  the  Lunatic,  Blind,  and  Deaf  and  Dumb 
Asylums,  are  fine  buildings.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Austin 
is  much  admired.  The  city  became  the  capital  of  Texas  in  1844. 
In  1870  the  population  was  4428. 

GALVESTON, 

The  largest  city  and  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  situated 
in  the  county  of  the  same  name,  on  Galveston*  Island  at  its  eastern 
end,  at  the  mouth  of  Galveston  Bay.  It  is  230  miles  east-southeast 
of  Austin,  and  about  200  miles  west  of  New  Orleans.  The  island, 
which  separates  the  bay  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  about  30  miles 


T48  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


GALVESTON 


long  and  3  miles  broad.  The  surface  is  level,  and  its  average  eleva- 
tion above  the  water  is  only  about  4  feet.  From  Galveston  City  the 
bay  extends  to  the  northward  for  35  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Trinity 
River. 

The  harbor  of  Galveston  is  the  best  in  the  State,  and  at  low  tide 
has  from  12  to  14  feet  of  water  on  the  bar.  Within  the  harbor  the 
anchorage  is  ample  and  secure,  and  the  city  is  supplied  with  a  series 
of  excellent  wharves.  Galveston  is  the  seat  of  a  large  coasting  trade, 
and  has  regular  communication  by  steamship  with  New  Orleans  and 
New  York,  and  steamboats  navigate  the  Trinity  and  San  Jacinto 
rivers,  bringing  the  produce  of  the  interior  to  the  seaboard.  There 
is  railway  communication  with  the  principal  towns  of  the  Slate,  and 
a  railway  is  in  progress  which  will  connect  Galveston  with  New 
Orleans. 

The  city  of  Galveston  is  well  built.  The  dwelling  houses  ^re 
mostly  of  wood,  painted  white  and  surrounded  with  large  grounds 
ornamented  with  flowers  and  shrubbery.  The  streets  are  broad, 
straight,  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are  adorned  with  trees, 
flower-gardens,  etc.  The  business  portion  can  boast  a  number  of  fine 
warehouses  and  stores,  and  in  this  respect  the  city  is  improving. 
Galveston  contains  several  good  schools,  public  and  private,  about  8 
churches,  a  handsome  city  hall,  2  large  hotels,  and  several  newspaper 
offices.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  popu- 
lation was  13,818. 

Galveston  Island  was  discovered  by  La  Salle,  in   1686,  and  was 


TEXAS.  749 

called  San  Louis.  A  little  later  its  name  was  changed  to  Galveston, 
after  Galvez,  a  Spanish  nobleman.  After  the  close  of  the  war  of 
1812-15,  the  famous  "Pirate  of  the  Gulf,"  Lafitte,  made  the  island 
his  headquarters.  His  haunt  was  broken  up  in  1821,  by  Lieutenant 
Kearney,  commanding  the  United  States  brig,  Enterprise.  In  1836 
the  first  settlement  was  made  on  the  island  by  persons  who  fled  from 
the  interior  of  the  State  during  the  Texan  Revolution.  During  the 
civil  war  the  city  was  bombarded  by  the  United  States  fleet  stationed 
in  the  vicinity,  and  was  captured  by  the  Federal  forces,  and  retaken 
by  the  Confederates. 

HOUSTON, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Harris  county,  on  Buffalo 
Bayou,  45  miles  by  water  from  its  entrance  into  Galveston  Bay,  200 
miles  east-southeast  of  Austin,  and  82  miles  northwest  of  Galveston 
City.  It  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  and  is  a 
place  of  considerable  commercial  importance.  It  is  the  principal 
entrepot  for  a  large  section  of  country,  and  the  principal  shipping  port 
for  the  cotton,  sugar,  and  grain  of  the  interior.  It  has  regular  steam- 
boat communication  with  Galveston,  and  is  connected  with  the  prin- 
cipal towns  of  the  State  by  railway.  Vast  numbers  of  cattle  are 
raised  in  the  vicinity,  and  these  also  find  a  market  in  Houston. 

Houston  is  built  of  wood,  and  has  few  architectural  pretensions. 
It  contains  several  schools,  factories,  churches,  and  two  newspaper 
offices.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  popu- 
lation was  9382. 

Houston  was  laid  out  by  John  K.  and  A.'  C.  Allen,  and  was  settled 
in  1836.  It  was  for  some  time  the  capital  of  Texas. 

SAN  ANTONIO, 

The  third  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Bexar  county,  on  both  sides 
of  the  San  Antonio  River,  110  miles  southwest  of  Austin.  The  city 
is  sometimes  known  as  San  Antonio  de  Bexar.  It  is  rapidly  improv- 
ing, though  in  some  respects  it  is  more  like  a  Mexican  than  an 
American  city.  It  contains  a  United  States  Arsenal,  several  churches 
and  schools,  and  two  newspaper  offices.  Many  of  the  residences  built 
during  the  past  ten  years  are  very  handsome.  The  city  has  a  flourish- 
ing trade  with  Mexico,  and  is  connected  by  a  line  of  stages  with  the 
railroad  from  Indianola  to  Victoria.  Fort  Alamo,  in  the  vicinity,  is 
one  of  the  most  noted  places  in  the  history  of  Texas.  San  Antonio  is 


750 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE  ALAMO,  SAN  ANTONIO. 

governed  by  a  Mayor  and   Council.     In   1870,  the  population  was 
12,256. 

San  Antonio  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  Union.  It  was 
founded  as  a  mission  in  1703,  by  a  company  of  Franciscan  monks,  and 
named  in  honor  of  San  Francisco  de  Solano.  In  1722,  its  name  was 
changed  to  San  Antonio  de  Valero.  It  bore  a  prominent  part  in  the 
struggles  of  the  Texans  for  independence.  In  1836,  a  small  force  of 
Texans  defended  the  old  mission  of  the  Alamo  against  a  Mexican 
army,  and  died  to  the  last  man.  rather  than  surrender  the  post  en- 
trusted to  them. 

MISCELLANY. 

CAPTURE    OF    THE    ALAMO. 

The  "  Fall  of  the  Alamo,"  like  the  famous  defence  of  Thermopylae,  is  an  event 
that  will  long  live  among  the  heroic  incidents  of  history.  At  2  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  February  23d,  1830,  Santa  Anna,  with  the  2cl  division  of  the  Mexican 
army,  inarched  into  the  town  of  San  Antonio,  having  been  preceded  by  an  ad- 
vance detachment  the  second  day  preceding.  His  army  numbered  several  thou- 
sand strong,  and  comprised  the  choicest  troops  of  his  country.  On  the  same  day 
a  regular  siege  of  the  Alamo  commenced,  and  lasted  eleven  days,  until  the  final 
assault.  The  Alamo  was  then  garrisoned  by  156  men,  under  Lieutenant-Colonel 
William  Barret  Travis,  with  Colonel  James  Bowie,  second,'  as  is  believed,  in 
command.  Colonel  David  Crockett  was  also  with  the  garrison,  but  it  is  un- 
known whether  he  had  a  command,  as  he  had  joined  it  only  a  few  weeks  before. 


TEXAS.  751 

Santa  Anna  immediately  demanded  a  surrender  of  the  garrison,  without  terms. 
Their  reply  was  a  shot  from  the  fort.  He  then  raised  a  blood  red  flag  on  the 
church  at  Bexar,  as  a  token  of  vengeance  against  the  rebels,  and  began  an  attack, 
and  this  by  slow  approaches.  Travis  sent  off  an  express  with  a  strong  appeal  for 
aid,  declaring  that  he  would  never  surrender  nor  retreat.  For  many  days  no 
marked  incidents  occurred  in  the  siege.  On  the  1st  of  March,  83  gallant  men, 
from  Gonzales,  under  Captain  John  W.  Smith,  entered  the  Alamo,  and  raised 
the  effective  force  to  188  men.  On  the  2d,  Travis  sent  out  by  a  courier  a  last  ap- 
peal, setting  forth  fully  his  determination  to  remain  until  he  got  relief  or  perished 
m  the  defence.  About  the  same  time  he  also  wrote  an  affecting  note  to  a  friend  : 
'•  Take  care  of  my  little  boy.  If  the  country  should  be  saved,  I  may  make  him  a 
splendid  fortune  ;  but  if  the  country  should  be  lost,  and  I  should  perish,  he  will 
have  nothing  but  the  proud  recollection  that  he  is  the  son  of  a  man  who  died  for 
Ms  country." 

The  account  of  the  final  assault,  with  the  accompanying  description  of  the 
Alamo,  we  take  from  the  "Fall  of  the  Alamo,"  a  pamphlet  by  Captain  R.  M. 
Potter,  published  at  San  Antonio,  in  July,  1860.  He  had  unusual  opportunities 
for  obtaining  all  that  can  be  known  of  the  final  tragedy,  the  details  of  which  have 
not  been  accurately  given,  for  the  reason  that  not  a  single  defender  survived  it : 

"  Santa  Anna,  after  calling  a  council  of  war  on  the  4th  of  March,  fixed  upon 
the  morning  of  Sunday,  the  Gth,  as  the  time  for  the  final  assault.  Before  narrat- 
ing it,  however,  I  must  describe  the  Alamo  as  it  then  existed.  It  had  been 
founded  soon  after  the  first  settlement  of  the  vicinity,  and  being  originally  built 
as  a  place  of  safety  for  the  settlers  and  their  property,  in  case  of  Indian  hostility, 
with  sufficient  room  for  that  purpose,  it  had  neither  the  strength  nor  compact- 
ness, nor  the  arrangement  of  dominant  points,  which  belong  to  a  regular  fortifi- 
cation. 

uAs  its  area  contained  between  two  and  three  acres,  a  thousand  men  would 
barely  have  sufficed  to  man  its  defences,  and  before  a  heavy  siege  train  its  walls 
would  soon  have  crumbled. 

"This  work  was  not  manned  against  the  assault.  According  to  Santa  Anna's 
report,  21  guns  of  various  calibres  were  planted  in  different  parts  of  the  works. 
Y oakum,  in  his  description  of  the  armament,  mentions  but  14.  Whichever  num- 
ber be  correct,  however,  has  but  little  bearing  upon  the  merits  of  the  final  defence, 
in  which  the  cannon  had  little  to  do.  They  were  in  the  hands  of  men  unskilled 
in  their  use,  and  owing  to  the  construction  of  the  fort  each  had  a  limited  range, 
which  the  enemy,  in  moving  up,  seem  in  a  measure  to  have  avoided. 

"  It  was  resolved  by  Santa  Anna  that  the  assault  should  take  place  at  early 
dawn.  The  order  for  the  attack,  which  I  have  read,  but  have  no  copy  of,  was 
full  and  precise  in  its  details,  and  was  signed  by  Brigadier- General  Amador  as 
head  of  the  staff.  The  besieging  force  consisted  of  the  battalions  of  Toluca, 
Jimenes,  Matamoros,  los  Zapadores  (or  sappers),  and  another,  which  I  think  was 
that  of  Guerrero,  and  the  dragoon  regiment  of  Dolores.  The  infantry  was  di- 
rected at  a  certain  hour,  between  midnight  and  dawn,  to  form  at  a  convenient 
distance  from  the  fort  in  four  columns  of  attack  and  a  reserve.  This  disposition 
was  not  made  by  battalions  ;  for  the  light  companies  of  all  of  them  were  incorpo- 
rated with  the  Zapadores  to  form  the  reserve}  and  some  other  transpositions  may 
have  been  made.  A  certain  number  of  scaling  ladders  and  axes  were  to  be  borne 
with  particular  columns.  The  cavalry  were  to  be  stationed  at  different  points 
around  the  fortress  to  cut  off  fugitives.  From  what  I  have  learned  of  men  en- 


T52  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

gaged  in  the  action,  it  seems  that  these  dispositions  were  changed  on  the  eve  of 
attack,  so  far  as  to  combine  the  live  bodies  of  infantry  into  three  columns  of  at- 
tack. This  included  the  troops  designated  in  the  order  as  the  reserve  ;  and  the 
only  actual  reserve  that  remained  was  the  cavalry. 

"The  immediate  command  of  the  assault  was  entrusted  to  General  Castrillon, 
a  Spaniard  by  birth  and  a  brilliant  soldier.  Santa  Anna  took  his  station,  with  a 
part  of  his  staifand  all  the  regimental  bands,  at  a  battery  south  of  the  Alamo  and 
near  the  old  bridge,  from  which  the  signal  was  to  be  given  by  a  bugle  note  for 
the  columns  to  move  simultaneously,  at  double  quick  time,  against  different 
points  of  the  fortress.  One,  composed  mainly  of  the  battalion  of  Toluca,  was  to 
enter  the  north  breach — the  other  two  to  move  against  the  southern  side :  one  to 
attack  the  gate  of  the  large  area — the  other  to  storm  the  chapel.  By  the  timing 
of  the  signal,  it  was  calculated  that  the  columns  would  reach  the  foot  of  the  wall 
.just  as  it  became  light  enough  to  operate. 

;;  When  the  hour  came,  the  batteries  and  the  music  were  alike  silent,  and  a 
single  blast  of  the  bugle  was  at  first  followed  by  no  sound  save  the  rushing  tramp 
of  soldiers.  The  guns  of  the  fortress  soon  opened  upon  them,  and  then  the  bands 
at  the  south  battery  struck  up  the  assassin  note  of  deguello — '  no  quarter.'  But 
a  few  and  not  very  effective  discharges  from  the  works  could  be  made  before  the 
enemy  Were  under  them.  A  sergeant  of  the  Zapadores  told  me  that  the  column 
he  belonged  to  encountered  but  one  discharge  of  grape  in  moving  up,  and  that 
passed  mostly  over  the  men's  heads  ;  and  it  is  thought  that  the  worn  and  weary 
garrison  was  not  till  then  fully  mustered.  The  Toluca  column  arrived  first  at 
the  foot  of  the  wall,  but  was  not  the  first  to  enter  the  area.  A  large  piece  of  can- 
non at  the  northwest  angle  of  the  area  probably  commanded  the  breach.  Either 
this,  or  the  deadly  fire  of  the  riflemen  at  that  point,  where  Travis  commanded  in 
person,  brought  the  column  to  a  disordered  halt,  and  its  leader,  Colonel  Duque, 
fell  dangerously  wounded.  But,  while  this  was  occurring,  one  of  the  other  col- 
umns entered  the  area  by  the  gate,  or  by  escalade  near  it.  The  defence  of  the 
outer  walls  had  now  to  be  abandoned ;  and  the  garrison  took  refuge  in  the  build- 
ings. It  was  probably  while  the  enemy  were  pouring  in  through  the  breach 
that  Travis  fell  at  his  post ;  for  his  body  was  found  beside  the  gun  just  referred 
to.  All  this  passed  within  a  few  minutes  after  the  bugle  sounded.  The  early 
loss  of  the  outer  barrier,  so  thinly  manned,  was  inevitable  ;  and  it  was  not  until 
the  garrison  became  more  concentrated  and  covered  in  the  inner  works,  that  the 
main  struggle  commenced.  They  were  more  concentrated  as  to  the  space,  not  as  to 
Unity ;  for  there  was  no  communicating  between  the  buildings,  nor  in  all  cases  be- 
tween rooms.  There  was  now  no  retreating  from  point  to  point ;  and  each  group  of 
defenders  had  to  fight  and  die  in  the  den  where  it  was  brought  to  bay.  From  the 
doors,  windows,  and  loopholes  of  the  rooms  around  the  area,  the  crack  of  the  rifle 
and  hiss  of  the  bullet  came  fierce  and  fast :  and  the  enemy  fell  and  recoiled  in  his 
first  efforts  to  charge.  The  gun  beside  which  Travis  lay  was  now  turned  against 
the  buildings,  as  were  also  some  others ;  and  shot  after  shot  in  quick  succession 
was  sent  crashing  through  the  doors  and  barricades  of  the  several  rooms.  Each 
ball  was  followed  by  a  storm  of  musketry  and  a  charge ;  and  thus  room  after 
room  was  carried  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  when  all  within  them  died  fighting 
to  the  last.  The  struggle  was  mad6  up  of  a  number  of  separate  and  desperate 
combats,  often  hand  to  hand,  between  squads  of  the  garrison  and  bodies  of  the 
enemy.  The  bloodiest  spot  about  the  fortress  was  the  long  barrack  and  the  ground 
in  front  of  it,  where  the  enemy  fell  in  heaps. 


TEXAS.  753 

•kln  the  meantime,  the  turning  of  Travis'  gun  had  been  imitated  by  the  garri- 
son. A  small  piece  on  the  roof  of  the  chapel,  or  one  of  the  other  buildings,  was 
turned  against  the  area  while  the  rooms  were  being  stormed.  It  did  more  execu- 
tion than  any  other  cannon  of  the  fortress  ;  but  after  a  few  effective  discharges, 
all  who  manned  it  fell  under  the  enemy's  fire.  Crockett  had  taken  refuge  in  a 
room  of  the  low  barrack  near  the  gate.  He  either  garrisoned  it  alone,  or  was  left 
alone  by  the  fall  of  his  companions,  when  he  sallied  to  meet  his  fate  in  the  face 
of  the  foe,  and  was  shot  down.  Bowie  had  been  severely  hurt  by  a  fall  from  a 
platform,  and,  when  the  attack  came  on,  was  confined  to  his  bed  in  un  upper 
room  of  the  barrack.  He  was  there  killed  on  his  couch,  but  not  without  resist- 
ance ;  for  he  is,  said  to  have  shot  down  with  his  pistols  one  or  more  of  the  enemy 
as  they  entered  the  chamber. 

"  The  church  was  the  last  point  taken.  The  column  which  moved  against  it, 
consisting  of  the  battalion  of  Jimenes  and  other  troops,  was  at  first  repulsed,  and 
took  refuge  among  some  old  houses  outside  of  the  barrier,  near  its  southwest 
angle,  till  it  was  rallied  and  led  on  by  General  Amador.  It  was  soon  joined  by 
the  rest  of  the  force,  and  the  church  was  carried  by  a  coup  de  main.  Its  inmates, 
like  the  rest,  fought  till  the  last,  and  continued  to  fire  from  the  upper  platforms 
after  the  enemy  occupied  the  floor  of  the  building.  A  Mexican  officer  told  of 
seeing  a  man  shot  in  the  crown  of  the  head  in  this  melee.  During  the  closing 
struggle,  Lieutenant  Dickinson,  with  his  child  in  his  arms,  or  tied  to  his  back,  as 
some  accounts  say,  leaped  from  an  upper  window,  and  both  were  killed  in  the 
act.  Of  those  he  left  behind  him,  the  bayonet  soon  gleaned  what  the  bullet 
missed  ;  ami  in  the  upper  part  of  the  church  the  last  defender  must  have  fallen. 
The  morning  breeze  which  received  his  parting  breath  probably  still  fanned  his 
flag  above  that  fabric,  ere  it  was  pulled  down  by  the  victor.  It  is  a  fact  not  often 
remembered,  that  Travis  and  his  men  died  under  the  Mexican  Federal  flag  of 
1824,  instead  of  the  'Lone  Star,'  although  the  independence  of  Texas,  unknown 
to  them,  had  been  declared  four  days  before.  They  died  for  a  Republic  whose 
existence  they  never  knew. 

"The  Alamo  had  fallen. 

"The  action,  according  to  Santa  Anna's  report,  lasted  30  minutes.  It  was 
certainly  short,  and  possibly  no  longer  space  passed  between  the  moment  when 
the  enemy  fronted  the  breach  and  that  when  resistance  died  out.  Some  of  the 
incidents  which  have  to  be  related  separately,  no  doubt  occurred  simultaneously, 
and  occupied  very  little  time. 

"  The  account  of  the  assault  which  Yoakum  and  others  have  adopted  as  au- 
thentic, is  evidently  one  which  popular  tradition  has  based  on  conjecture. 

"A  negro  boy,  belonging  to  Travis,  the  wife  of  Lieutenant  Dickinson,  Mrs. 
Alsbury,  a  native  of  San  Antonio,  and  another  Mexican  woman,  and  two  children, 
were  the  only  inmates  of  the  fortress  whose  lives  were  spared.  The  children 
were  those  of  the  two  females  whose  names  are  given.  Lieutenant  Dickinson 
commanded  a  gun  in  the  east  upper  window  of  the  church.  His  family  was  pro- 
bably in  one  of  the  two  small  upper  rooms  of  the  front.  This  will  account  for 
his  being  able  to  take  one  of  his  children  to  the  rear  platform  while  the  building 
was  being  stormed.  A  small  irrigating  canal  runs  below  the  window  referred 
to  ;  and  his  aim,  in  the  desperate  attempt  at  flight,  probably  was  to  break  his  fall 
by  leaping  into  the  water;  but  the  shower  of  bullets  which  greeted  him  rendered 
the  precaution  as  needless  as  it  was  hopeless. 

uAt  the  time  the  outer  barriers  were  carried,  a  lew  men  leaped  from  them  and 
48 


754  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

attempted  to  escape,  but  were  all  cut  down  by  tbe  cavalry.  Half  an  hour  or  more 
after  the  action  was  over,  a  few  men  were  found  concealed  in  one  of  the  rooms 
under  some  mattresses — General  Houston,  in  a  letter  of  the  llth,  says  as  many  as 
seven  ;  but  I  have  generally  heard  them  spoken  of  as  only  three  or  four.  The  offi- 
cer to  whom  they  were  first  reported  entreated  Santa  Anna  to  cpare  their  lives  ; 
but  he  was  sternly  rebuked  and  the  men  ordered  to  be  siiot,  which  was  done. 
Owing  to  the  hurried  and  confused  manner  in  which  the  mandate  was  obeyed,  a 
Mexican  soldier  was  accidentally  killed  with  them. 

"  Castrillon  was  the  soul  of  the  assault.  Santa  Anna  remained  at  the  south 
battery  with  the  music  of  the  whole  army  and  a  part  of  his  staff,  till  lie  supposed 
the  place  was  nearly  mastered,  when  he  moved  up  with  that  escort  toward  the 
Alamo  ;  but  returned  again  on  being  greeted  by  a  few  rifle  balls  from  the  upper 
windows  of  the  church.  He,  however,  entered  the  area  toward  the  close  of  the 
scene,  and  directed  some  of  the  last  details  of  the  butchery. 

'•The  five  infantry  corps  that  formed  the  attacking  force,  according  to  the  data 
already  referred  to,  amounted  to  about  2500  men.  The  number  of  Mexican 
wounded,  according  to  various  accounts,  largely  exceeded  that  of  the  killed  ;  and 
the  estimates  made  of  both  by  intelligent  men  who  were  in  the  action,  and  whose 
candor  I  think  could  be  relied  on,  rated  their  loss  at  from  150  to  200  killed,  and 
from- 300  to  400  wounded.  The  real  loss  of  the  assailants  in  killed  and  wounded 
probably  did  not  differ  much  from  500  men.  General  Bradburn  was  of  opinion 
that  300  men  in  the  action  were  lost  to  the  service,  counting  with  the  lulled  those 
who  died  of  wounds  or  were  permanently  disabled.  This  agrees  with  the  other 
most  reliable  estimates.  Now,  if  500  men  or  more  were  bullet-stricken  in  half 
an  hour,  by  130  or  less,  it  was  a  rapidity  of  bloodshed  almost  unexampled,  and 
needs  no  exaggeration. 

"Of  the  foregoing  details,  which  do  not  refer  to  documentary  authority,  I  ob- 
tained many  from  General  Bradburn.  who  arrived  at  San  Antonio  a  few  days 
after  the  action,  and  gathered  them  from  officers  who  were  in  it.  A  few  I  had 
through  a  friend  from  General  Amador.  Others  again  I  received  from  three  in- 
telligent sergeants,  who  were  men  of  fair  education,  and  I  think  truthful.  One 
of  them,  Sergeant  Becero,  of  the  battalion  of  Matamoras,  who  was  captured  at 
San  Jacinto,  was  for  several  years  my  servant  in  Texas.  From  men  of  their 
class  I  could  generally  get  more  candid  statements,  as  to  loss  and  other  matters, 
than  from  commissioned  officers.  I  have  also  gathered  some  minor  particulars 
from  local  tradition  preserved  among  the  residents  of  this  town.  When  most  of 
the  details  thus  learned  were  acquired,  I  had  not  seen  the  locality  ;  and  hence  I 
had  to  locate  some  of  the  occurences  by  inference  ;  which  I  have  done  carefully 
and  I  think  correctly. 

"The  stranger  will  naturally  inquire,  'Where  lie  the  heroes  of  the  Alamo?' 
and  Texas  can  only  reply  by  a  silent  blush.  A  few  hours  after  the  action,  the 
bodies  of  the  slaughtered  garrison  were  gathered  up  by  the  victors,  laid  in  three 
piles,  mingled  with  fuel,  and  burned.  On  the  23th  of  February,  near  a  year 
after,  their  bones  and  ashes  were  collected,  placed  in  a  coffin,  and  interred  with 
due  solemnity,  and  with  military  honors,  by  Colonel  Seguin  and  hiu  command. 
The  place  of  burial  \vas  in  what  was  then  a  peach  orchard  outside  the  town,  a 
few  hundred  yards  from  the  Alamo.  It  is  now  a  jarge  enclosed  lot  in  the  midst 
of  the  Alamo  soh-jrb  " 


PART    V. 
THE   WESTERN   STATES. 


WEST    VIRGINIA. 

Area, 23,000  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 376,688 

Population  in  1870, 442,014 

THE  State  of  West  Virginia  (excluding  the  narrow  strip  in  the 
northwest,  called  the  "Pan-handle")  lies  between  37°  6'  and  39°  44' 
N.  latitude,  and  between  77°  40'  and  82°  35'  W.  longitude.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland,  on  the  south- 
east by  Virginia,  on  the  southwest  by  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  and 
on  the  northwest  by  Ohio.  It  is  very  irregular  in  shape. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  is  generally  hilly.  The  northeast  part  of  the  State  is 
crossed  by  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  west  of  which  are  the  Green- 
brier,  Cheat  Mountains,  and  other  eminences,  supposed  to  be  a  pro- 
longation of  the  Cumberland  Mountains.  The  valley  between  these 
ranges  and  the  Alleghanies  is  elevated  to  a  level  of  from  1200  to 
2000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  scenery  of  the  State  is  grand  and  beautiful.  The  celebrated 
pass  at  Harper's  Ferry  lies  in  this  State,  and  is  but  the  beginning  of  a 
series  of  mountain  views,  unsurpassed  in  grandeur  by  any  in  the 
world. 

"  The  scenery  at  Harper's  Ferry  is,  perhaps,  the  most  singularly 
picturesque  in  America.  To  attain  the  view  here  given,  it  was  necessary 
to  climb  the  Blue  Ridge  by  a  narrow  winding  path  immediately  above 
the  bank  of  the  Potomac.  The  view  from  this  lofty  summit  amply 
repays  the  fatigue  incurred  by  its  ascent.  The  junction  of  the  two 
rivers  is  immediately  beneath  the  spectator's  feet;  and  his  delighted 

757 


758 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC, 


.-._  m 


HARPER'S  FERRY. 

eye,  resting  first  upon  the  beautiful  and  thriving  village  of  Harper's 
Ferry,  wanders  over  the  wide  and  woody  plains,  extending  to  the 
Alleghany  Mountains.  President  Jefferson,  who  has  given  the  name 
to  a  beautiful  rock  immediately  above  the  village,  has  left  a  powerful 
description  of  the  scenery  of  Harper's  Ferry.  He  says :  *  The 
passage  of  the  Potomac  through  the  Blue  Ridge,  is,  perhaps,  one 
of  the  most  stupendous  scenes  in  nature.  You  stand  on  a  very  high 
point  of  land ;  on  your  right  comes  up  the  Shenandoah,  having 
ranged  along  the  foot  of  a  mountain  a  hundred  miles  to  seek  a  vent. 
On  your  left  approaches  the  Potomac,  in  quest  of  a  passage  also ;  in 
the  moment  of  their  junction,  they  rush  together  against  the  moun- 
tain, rend  it  asunder,  and  pass  off  to  the  sea.  The  first  glance  of 
this  scene  hurries  our  senses  into  the  opinion  that  this  earth  has  been 
created  in  time;  that  the  mountains  were  formed  first;  that  the 
rivers  began  to  flow  afterwards ;  that  in  this  place  particularly,  they 
have  been  dammed  up  by  the  Blue  Ridge  of  mountains,  and  have 
formed  an  ocean  which  filled  the  whole  valley ;  that,  continuing  to 
rise,  they  have  at  length  broken  over  at  this  spot,  and  have  torn  the 
mountain  down  from  its  summit  to  its  base.  The  piles  of  rock  on 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  759 

each  hand,  particularly  on  the  Shenandoah — tne  evident  marks  of 
their  disrupture  and  avulsion  from  their  beds  by  the  most  powerful 
agents  of  nature,  corroborate  the  impression.  But  the  distant  finish- 
ing which  nature  has  given  to  the  picture,  is  of  a  very  different 
character;  it  is  a  true  contrast  to  the  foreground  ;  it  is  as  placid  and 
delightful  as  that  is  wild  and  tremendous;  for  the  mountain  being 
cloven  asunder,  she  presents  to  your  eye,  through  the  clefts  a  small 
catch  of  smooth  blue  horizon,  at  an  infinite  distance  in  the  plain 
country,  inviting  you,  as  it  were,  from  the  riot  and  tumult  warring 
around,  to  pass  through  the  breach  and  participate  of  the  calm  below. 
Here  the  eye  ultimately  composes  itself;  and  that  way,  too,  the  road 
happens  actually  to  lead.  You  cross  the  Potomac  above  the  junction, 
pass  along  its  side  through  the  base  of  the  mountain  for  three  miles, 
its  terrible  precipices  hanging  in  fragments  over  you,  and  within 
about  twenty  miles  reach  Frederick  town,  and  the  fine  country  round 
that.  This  scene  is  worth  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic;  yet  here, 
as  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Natural  Bridge,  are  people  who  have 
passed  their  lives  within  half  a  dozen  miles,  and  have  never  been  to 
survey  these  monuments  of  a  war  between  rivers  and  mountains, 
which  must  have  shaken  the  earth  itself  to  its  centre.7  There  are 
many  points  of  view  from  which  the  scenery  appears  romantic  and 
beautiful.  Among  these,  that  seen  from  Jefferson's  Rock,  which  is 
on  a  hill  overhanging  the  town,  is  very  fine.  The  top  of  this  rock  is 
flat,  and  nearly  twelve  feet  square;  its  base,  which  does  not  exceed 
five  feet  in  width,  rests  upon  the  top  of  a  larger  rock  ;  and  its  height 
is  about  five  feet.  The  whole  mass  is  so  nicely  balanced,  that  the 
application  of  a  small  force  will  cause  it  to  vibrate  considerably. 
On  this  rock  once  reposed  another  rock,  on  which  Mr.  Jefferson, 
during  a  visit  to  this  place,  inscribed  his  name.  In  the  extraordinary 
political  excitement  of  1798-9,  between  the  federal  and  the  democratic 
parties,  a  Captain  Henry,  who  was  stationed  here  with  some  United 
States  troops,  at  the  head  of  a  band  of  his  men  hurled  off  the  apex 
of  this  rock.  At  Harper's  Ferry,  on  the  Maryland  side,  there  is 
said  to  be  a  wonderful  likeness  of  Washington  in  the  stupendous 
rocks  which  overhang  the  Potomac.  The  nose,  lips,  and  chin  are 
admirably  formed,  and  bear  the  semblance  of  studied  art.  The  fore- 
head is  obscure;  yet  there  is  sufficient  to  give  the  mind  a  just  idea 
of  the  noble  form  and  dignified  carriage,  with  the  mildness  of  feature, 
which  the  original  possessed  so  pre-eminently  as  to  inspire  all  men 
with  a  profound  reverence  towards  this  august  personage." 


760  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Ohio  River,  already  described,  washes  the  entire  northwestern 
shore  of  the  State.  The  cities  of  Wheeling  and  Parkersburg  lie  on  its 
banks.  Its  scenery  is  beautiful,  but  tame.  It  receives  the  waters  of 
the  principal  rivers  of  the  State.  -These  are  the  Little  and  Great 
Kanawha,  the  Guyandotte,  and  Big  Sandy,  which  last  separates  the 
State  from  Kentucky.  The  Monongahela,  one  of  the  branches  of  the 
Ohio,  rises  in  the  centre  of  this  State,  and  flows  north  into  Pennsyl- 
vania. The  Potomac  also  rises  in  the  northeastern  part  and  separates 
West  Virginia  from  Maryland.  The  Great  Kanawha  is  the  principal 
river,  lying  for  the  greater  part  within  the  State.  It  rises  in  Ashe 
county,  North  Carolina,  and  flows  northwest  through  Virginia  and 
West  Virginia  into  the  Ohio,  at  Point  Pleasant.  Before  entering 
West  Virginia  it  is  known  as  New  River.  It  breaks  through  the 
Alleghany  and  Blue  Ridge  ranges,  and  in  Fayette  county,  in  this 
State,  is  joined  by  its  principal  tributary,  the  Gauley.  Two  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Gauley,  the  Kanawha,  now  500  yards  wide, 
falls  over  a  ledge  of  rocks  25  feet  high.  These  falls  are  very  pic- 
turesque, and  are  at  the  head  of  the  navigation  of  the  stream.  The 
scenery,  especially  along  the  New  River,  is  very  beautiful.  The 
Kanawha  is  400  miles  long,  and  navigable  for  100  miles.  The 
Monongahela  is  navigable  at  high  water  from  Pittsburg,  Pa.,  to  Fair- 
mont in  this  State. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  in  West  Virginia  is  invigorating  and  delightful.  Tne 
summers  are  cool  and  pleasant,  yet  hot  enough  for  the  crops,  and  the 
winters  though  severe  are  steady  and  not  unpleasant.  In  healthful- 
ness,  the  State  will  compare  favorably  with  any  part  of  the  Union. 

MINERALS. 

A  recent  report  of  the  Bureau  of  Agriculture  thus  describes  the 
minerals  of  the  State : 

"  The  minerals  of  West  Virginia  are  too  well  known  for  particular 
comment.  Nearly  all  the  counties  in  the  State  contain  coal,  iron,  and 
other  minerals  ;  coal,  in  veins  suitable  for  working,  is  found  in  greatest 
abundance  along  the  banks  of  the  Upper  Ohio,  in  the  hills  along  the 
course  of  the  Monongahela  and  its  branches,  in  the  central  counties 
of  the  State,  in  the  Piedmont  region  east  of  the  summit,  in  the  Ka- 
nawha valley,  and  in  all  the  counties  south  of  that  river.  The  coal 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  761 

lands  of  Guyandotte,  being  bituminous,  cannel,  and  splint  varieties, 
cover  nine-tenths  of  the  Guyandotte  valley,  in  horizontal  strata  in  the 
hills,  from  three  to  eleven  feet  thick,  aggregating  in  some  hills,  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  feet.  Coal  mining  in  Kanawha  is  represented  as  paying 
well.  The  inducements  for  employing  capital  under  practical  super- 
vision is  claimed  to  be  very  flattering,  while  complaint  is  made  of  the 
visionary  character  of  recent  coal  and  oil  operations.  Of  Brooke,  our 
correspondent  says: — 'The  most  valuable  mineral,  however,  is  bitu- 
minous coal,  accessible  by  level  adits  over  the  greater  part  of  the 
county.  The  stratum  is  four  to  five  feet  thick..  In  the  hills,  fronting 
on  the  Ohio  River,  it  is  about  200  feet  above  the  river  level,  and  the 
coal  is  let  down  by  railways  to  boats  for  shipment.  Off  from  the 
river  it  is  mined  merely  for  home  consumption.  As  soon  as  railways 
are  made  up  the  valleys,  an  immense  supply  can  be  obtained.  About 
300  feet  beneath  the  river  level,  there  is  another  stratum,  some  six  or 
seven  feet  in  thickness,  of  superior  coal,  which  has  been  mined  by 
shafts  or  galleries  at  Steubenville,  and  at  Rust  Run,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  A  company  was  formed  a  short  time  ago  to  mine 
this  coal  at  Wellsburg,  our  county  seat,  but  they  have  as  yet  failed  to 
commence.  This  coal  is  almost  wholly  free  from  sulphur,  and  on 
that  account  admirably  fitted  for  working  iron.7  Iron  ore,  of  various 
descriptions,  and  of  superior  quality,  abounds  in  many  of  the  counties. 
It  is  worked  in  a  few  localities  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad, 
but  development  of  the  iron  of  the  State  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have 
commenced.  Other  minerals  are  reported  in  every  section  of  the 
State.  Some  of  the  best  timber  of  the  country  is  to  be  found  here, 
of  all  the  different  kinds  of  oaks,  black  walnut,  hickory,  poplar, 
cherry,  etc.  A  considerable  trade  in  timber  is  already  in  progress 
in  the  river  counties,  and  boat-building  is  engaged  in  to  some  extent. 
The  soil  is  generally  productive,  yielding  well  all  farm  products." 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  of  the  State  is  excellent  as  a  general  rule.  The  river  bot- 
toms and  the  mountain  valleys  are  the  best  lands,  but  the  hill-sides 
are  fertile,  also,  and  admirably  suited  for  grazing. 

In  1869,  there  were  about  3,000,000  acres  of  improved  land  in  the 
State,  and  about  7,000,000  acres  of  unimproved  land.  The  cash 
value  of  farms  was  about  $120,000,000.  Farming  implements  and 
machinery  amounted  to  about  $2,500,000  in  value.  The  value  of 
domestic  animals  was  $17,088,568. 


T62  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  principal  products  are : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 2,500,000 

rye, 300,000 

oats, 2,500,000 

buckwheat, 90,000 

Indian  corn, 8,250,000 

barley, 56,000 

Irish  potatoes, 1,125,000 

Pounds  of  tobacco, 2,000,000 

Tons  of  hay, 225,000 

MANUFACTURES    AND    COMMERCE. 

Manufactures  are  growing  in  importance  in  the  State.  Wheeling, 
the  principal  city,  is  largely  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  iron  and 
glass. 

The  State  has  no  foreign  commerce,  but  carries  on  an  extensive 
trade  along  the  Ohio  River  and  its  tributaries.  Coal,  iron,  and  glass 
are  the  principal  articles  of  export. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  there  were  485  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  West  Vir- 
ginia, constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  $33,000,000.  The  great  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  Railroad,  which  connects  Wheeling  with  Baltimore,  and  its 
branch,  the  Northwestern  Virginia  Railroad,  pass  through  the  northern 
and  northwestern  counties  of  the  State.  The  Hempfield  Railroad  will 
connect  Wheeling  with  Washington,  Pennsylvania,  and  is  to  be  ex- 
tended to  the  Pennsylvania  Central  Railroad  at  Greensburg  in  that 
State.  The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Rail-way  is  completed  from  Coving- 
ton  to  the  Ohio  River,  and  connects  its  eastern  terminus  with  the 
Central  Railroad  of  Virginia. 

EDUCATION. 

Bethany  College,  in  Brooke  county,  is  the  principal  institution  of 
the  State.  It  is  under  the  care  of  the  Campbelite  Church. 

The  State  Superintendent  of  Free  Schools  has  the  general  super- 
vision of  the  system  of  public  instruction  in  the  State.  He  makes  an 
annual  report  of  the  condition  of  the  schools  to  the  Legislature.  Each 
county  is  in  charge  of  a  County  Superintendent,  elected  for  two  years. 
He  is  required  by  law  to  visit  the  schools  and  examine  the  teachers. at 
least  once  in  six  months.  He  reports  annually  to  the  State  Superin- 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  763 

tendent.  The  immediate  control  of  the  schools  is  vested  in  a  Board 
of  Education  in  each  township.  Each  board  consists  of  three  Com- 
missioners, elected  for  three  years,  and  the  clerk  of  the  township. 
They  report  to  the  County  Superintendent.  Three  normal  schools 
have  been  established — one  at  Guyandotte,  Cabell  county  ;  one  at  West 
Liberty,  Ohio  county  ;  and  one  at  Fairmont,  Marion  county.  The 
school  at  West  Liberty  has  been  opened,  and  has  an  attendance  of  90 
pupils. 

An  Agricultural  College,  established  by  the  State  at  Morgan  town,  in 
Monongalia  county,  was  opened  in  June,  1867.  It  is  provided  with 
excellent  buildings  and  a  farm  of  25  acres. 

In  1870,  there  were  2113  school-houses  in  the  State.  The  annual 
attendance  was  87,330.  The  number  of  children  of  school  age  was 
162,430.  The  permanent  school  fund,  of  which  only  the  interest  can 
be  used,  amounts  to  $254,860.  The  total  sum  received  for  school 
purposes,  during  the  year,  amounted  to  $562,761.  The  value  of 
school  property  in  48  counties  was  $1,057,473. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Moundsville,  and  is  in  course 
of  construction,  but  sufficiently  advanced  to  accommodate  the  con- 
victs, who  in  November,  1870,  numbered  114. 

The  Hospital  for  the  Insane  is  at  Weston,  in  Lewis  county.  It  is 
not  yet  finished,  but  is  sufficiently  advanced  to  accommodate  its  pa- 
tients, who  in  1870  numbered  207.  The  buildings,  when  completed, 
will  be  ample  and  very  handsome.  They  were  begun  by  the  old  State 
of  Virginia  before  the  war. 

The  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind  Asylum  of  West  Virginia  is  situated 
at  Romney,  and  was  opened  in  1870.  It  is  too  small  to  accommodate 
the  patients. 

FINANCES. 

The  State  has  no  debt  of  its  own,  and  it  is  not  yet  decided  whether 
it  will  assume  any  share  of  the  debt  of  the  old  State  of  Virginia.  The 
receipts  of  the  treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  September  30,  1870, 
were  $567,321 ;  and  the  expenditures  $420,012.  On  the  1st  of  Oc- 
tober, 1869,  there  was  a  cash  balance  in  the  treasury  of  $66,167, 
making  the  balance  on  October  1,  1870,  $213,476. 

There  were,  in  1868,  in  this  State  5  State  banks,  with  a  capital  of 
$570,200,  and  15  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $2,216,400. 


764  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  the  State  was  ratified  by  the  people  in 
May,  1862.  Every  white  male  citizen,  21  years  old,  who  has  resided 
in  the  State  one  year,  and  in  the  county  thirty  days,  is  entitled  to  vote 
at  the  elections.  Paupers,  lunatics,  and  convicts,  are  not  allowed  to 
vote. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Audi- 
tor, Treasurer,  Attorney-General,  and  a  Legislature  consisting  of  a 
Senate  (of  22  members,  elected  for  two  years)  and  a  House  of  Dele- 
gates (of  51  members,  elected  for  one  year),  all  elected  by  the  peo- 
ple. The  State  officers  are  chosen  for  two  years.  The  Legislature 
meets  every  year  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  January,  and  sits  for  45 
days  only,  unless  two-thirds  of  both  houses  agree  to  prolong  the 
session. 

The  Courts  of  the  State  are,  the  Court  of  Appeals,  Circuit  Courts, 
and  County  Courts.  The  Supreme  Court  of  Appeals  consists  of  3 
judges,  elected  by  the  people  for  12  years,  one  judge  retiring  every  4 
years. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Charleston,  in  Kanawha  county. 
The  State  is  divided  into  53  counties. 

HISTORY. 

This  State  formed  a  part  of  Virginia  until  the  outbreak  of  the  late 
war.  Being  unwilling  to  be  forced  out  of  the  Union  by  the  action  of 
the  eastern  counties,  the  people  of  the  western  district  met  at  Wheeling 
in  convention,  on  the  11th  of  June,  1861,  and  organized  a  State 
Government.  Delegates  from  40  counties  were  present.  On  the  26th 
of  November,  1861,  another  Convention  met  at  Wheeling  and  adopted 
a  State  Constitution  for  the  new  State  of  West  Virginia.  This  was 
ratified  by  the  people  on  the  3d  of  May,  1862,  but  Congress  insisted 
on  the  adoption  of  certain  amendments  to  the  Constitution.  These 
changes  were  made  by  the  Convention,  the  amendments  sustained  by 
a  vote  of  the  people,  and  the  new  State  was  admitted  into  the  Union 
on  the  20th  of  June,  1863. 

During  the  war  the  State  was  repeatedly  invaded  by  the  Confede- 
rates, and  those  regions  bordering  on  the  old  State  of  Virginia  put  to 
considerable  loss.  The  Kanawha  Valley  was  the  scene  of  several  se- 
vere battles,  but  towards  the  close  of  the  war  the  State  was  almost 
exempt  from  hostilities. 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  765 

The  people  were  much  divided  in  sentiment,  the  Union  element 
preponderating,  however.  A  large  number  of  men  enlisted  in  the  Con- 
federate army,  and  the  State  furnished  31,884  troops  to  the  United 
States  army. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

The  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Wheeling,  Parkersburg,  Martins- 
burg,  Charleston,  Lewisburg,  Clarksburg,  Fairmont,  Grafton,  and 
Wellsburg. 

CHARLESTON, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Kanawha  county,  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Kanawha  River,  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  at  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Elk  River,  and  about  150  miles  S.S.W.  of  Wheeling. 
The  river  here  is  about  300  yards  wide,  and  is  navigable  for  small 
steamers  during  the  entire  year.  These  furnish  the  only  means  of 
communication  with  Wheeling  and  Parkersburg,  the  principal  cities 
of  the  State.  Charleston  will  soon  be  connected  with  Eastern  Vir- 
ginia by  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railway,  now  in  course  of  con- 
struction. 

Charleston  is  a  pretty  country  town,  containing  the  county  buildings, 
a  newspaper  office,  3  or  4  churches,  and  several  schools.  Its  only  im- 
portance is  due  to  its  being  the  capital  of  the  State.  Being  difficult 
of  access,  it  is  believed  that  the  seat  of  Government  will  soon  be  re- 
moved to  some  more  convenient  town.  In  1870  the  population  was 
3162. 

Just  above  Charleston  are  the  famous  Kanawha  Salt  Works,  which 
extend  on  both  sides  of  the  river  for  about  15  miles.  Previous  to  the 
civil  war  they  gave  employment  to  about  3000  persons,  and  produced 
large  quantities  of  salt  annually.  During  the  civil  war  they  were 
greatly  injured.  The  entire  Kanawha  region  is  rich  in  coal,  and 
abounds  in  fine  water-power.  Its  proximity  to  the  iron  regions  of  the 
two  Virginias  gives  it  peculiar  advantages  for  manufacturing,  which 
will  no  doubt  be  improved  in  the  course  of  a  few  years. 

WHEELING, 

The  commercial  and  political  metropolis  of  West  Virginia,  and  the 
first  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Ohio  county,  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Ohio  River,  and  on  both  sides  of  Wheeling  Creek,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  latter  stream,  92  miles  below  Pittsburg,  365  miles  above  Cin- 


766 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


\\.v 


WHEELING. 


cinnati,  and  420  miles  west  of  Washington  by  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railway.  Latitude  40°  V  N. ;  longitude  80°  42'  W. 

The  city  is  built  along  a  narrow  alluvial  tract  extending  from  the 
river  to  a  range  of  hills  less  than  a  mile  from  the  water,  and  running 
parallel  with  it.  It  is  about  2  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  breadth 
of  half  a  mile.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  moderately  wide  streets 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  though  it  contains  a  number 
of  handsome  buildings,  public  and  private,  is  but  indifferently  built 
as  a  whole.  The  streets  are  tolerably  well  paved,  and  some  of  them 
are  well  shaded  with  handsome  trees.  The  houses  are  mostly  of  brick, 
and  nearly  the  whole  of  those  recently  erected  are  of  this  material. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are,  the  United  States  Custom  House  (in 
which  is  located  the  Post  Office),  a  handsome  granite  edifice,  and  the 
Court  House.  The  city  contains  24  churches,  some  of  which  would  do 
credit  to  any  city  ;  an  efficient  hospital ;  7  public  schools,  and  several 
excellent  private  schools,  its  female  seminaries  being  among  the  best  in 
the  country ;  a  free  library  of  35,000  volumes ;  2  hotels,  and  4  newspaper 
offices.  Its  principal  points  are  connected  by  a  street  railway,  which 
is  also  extended  across  the  Ohio  to  the  town  of  Bridgeport,  in  the 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  767 

State  of  Ohio;  it  is  lighted  with  gas,  is  supplied  with  pure  water  from 
the  Ohio  River,  and  is  provided  with  a  steam  fire  department,  and  an 
efficient  police  force.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In 
1870  the  population  was  19,282. 

Wheeling  lies  in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  loveliest  portions  of  the 
Ohio  Valley,  and  is  destined  to  become  a  place  of  very  great  import- 
ance. It  is  connected  with  Baltimore  and  the  East  by  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  Railway.  A  railway  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  con- 
nects it  with  Pittsburg  and  Cleveland,  and  another  on  the  same  side 
with  Columbus,  Cincinnati  and  all  parts  of  the  West.  The  Ohio  is 
navigable  for  steamers  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  affords 
water  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  The 
city  is  engaged  in  a  heavy  river  trade,  a  number  of  steamboats  being 
owned  in  W heel  ing. 

The  prosperity  of  the  city  is  due  almost  entirely  to  its  manufactures. 
The  mills  by  which  it  is  surrounded  are  filled  with  coal,  which  lies 
but  a  few  feet  below  the  surface.  The  large  mills  mine  their  own 
coal  at  a  moderate  cost,  many  of  the  "  coal  banks,"  as  they  are  called, 
lying  within  the  city  limits.  Dr.  Reeves,  of  Wheeling,  writing  in 
1870,  thus  speaks  of  the  manufactures  of  the  city : 

"  In  the  manufacture  of  iron  and  nails,  within  the  limits  of  the  city, 
2295  persons  are  employed;  of  these  the  principal  operatives  are 
boilers  and  their  helpers,  620 ;  blacksmiths,  80;  nailers,  127;  nail- 
feeders,  385.  Boilers  work  at  the  furnaces  by  turns  of  ten  hours, 
both  day  and  night,  and  prepare  the  metal  for  the  rolls,  where  it  is 
made  into  bars  and  nail  sheeting.  This  class  of  laborers  is  generally 
composed  of  Germans  and  Irish — the  most  of  them  foreign  born,  and, 
as  a  rule,  are  a  hardy  set  of  men. 

"  The  nail  mills  of  Wheeling — the  Riverside  Iron  Works,  Belmont, 
La  Belle,  and  Wheeling  Iron  and  Nail  Works,  including  the  two 
mills  at  Benwood  and  Bellaire,  which  are  four  miles  distant  from 
Wheeling,  cut  17,350  kegs  of  nails  per  week,  or  about  902,200  kegs 
annually,  at  an  average  value  of  $1,059,900.  Besides  these,  and 
other  rolling  mills  for  the  manufacture  of  railroad  bar  rod,  hammer 
iron,  sheet  iron,  bridge  iron,  bolts,  etc.,  there  are  two  spike  mills 
which  turn  out  annually,  for  railroad  and  boat  building  purposes, 
from  50,000  to  60,000  kegs.  The  toughness  of  Wheeling  nails,  and 
therefore  their  superiority  to  nails  made  at  other  mills,  is  generally 
conceded.  The  Whitaker  Mills,  situated  on  the  bank  of  Wheeling 
Creek,  engage  principally  in  the  manufacture  of  railroad  iron,  spikes, 


T68  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

sheet  iron,  etc.,  and  are  capable  of  rolling  and  finishing  60  tons  of 
railroad  bars  per  day.  Fifty  miles  of  the  rails  of  the  great  Pacific 
road  were  made  at  these  mills.  The  Norway  Manufacturing  Com- 
•pany's  mills,  situated  in  South  Wheeling,  are  supplied  with  machin- 
ery of  the  most  improved  invention,  and  are  capable  of  doing  all 
kinds  of  wrought  iron  bridge  work.  A  part  of  the  grand  railway 
superstructure  soon  to  span  the  Missouri  at  St.  Charles,  near  St.  Louis, 
is  now  going  through  these  mills,  which  not  only  proves  their 
capacity,  but  as  well  their  competitive  ability.  The  hinge  and  tack 
factories  are  extensive  establishments,  and  because  of  the  superior 
manufacture  of  their  stocks,  they  are  rapidly  extending  their  trade  in 
all  directions.  The  founderies  and  machine  shops  give  employment 
to  475  persons,  who  are  remarkable  for  their  general  good  health, 
notwithstanding  their  frequent  excesses  in  eating  and  drinking. 
There  are  eight  founderies  in  the  city.  Three  or  four  of  these 
establishments  are  principally  engaged  in  duplicating  the  patterns 
of  machinery  employed  in  the  different  iron  and  nail  mills,  and  they 
are  also  as  well  prepared  to  make  original  patterns  and  single  castings 
of  any  shape  and  for  any  purpose,  weighing  from  one  pound  to  fifteen 
tons.  Recently  a  new  item  of  business — the  making  of  iron  fronts 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  substantial  patterns,  for  business  houses — 
has  come  into  existence. 

"The  stove  market  is  entirely  supplied  from  home  founderies, 
which  turn  out  annually  thousands  of  different  patterns,  both  for 
cooking  and  heating  purposes.  In  this  particular  line  of  trade,  busi- 
ness is  constantly  on  the  increase,  for  two  reasons,  mainly  :  the  truly 
excellent  patterns  made,  and  the  exceedingly  low  price  at  which  they 
are  sold.  Besides,  it  has  been  ascertained  that  Wheeling  stoves  with- 
stand greater  and  longer  heat  without  burning  than  many  patterns  of 
Eastern  and  Northern  manufacture. 

"  There  are  eight  machine  shops  in  the  city.  Of  these  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  are  the  most  extensive,  and  command  the  labor  of  from  60 
to  120  men,  both  day  and  night.  In  each  of  the  other  shops,  how- 
ever, equally  skilled  machinists  are  busily  employed  the  year  round 
making  steam-engines,  boilers,  shafting,  mill  work,  steamboat  irons, 
etc.,  etc.  In  a  word,  anything  in  the  way  of  Machinery  can  be  made 
at  the  Wheeling  shops  as  well  and  at  as  low  price  as  it  can  be  furnished 
from  the  competing  shops  of  Pittsburg  and  Cincinnati. 

"  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  GLASS. — In  this  department  there  are 
six  extensive  establishments — one  of  which  is  said  to  be  the  largest 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  769 

of  the  kind  in  the  United  States — which  employ  860  persons  of  both 
sexes,  men  and  women,  boys  and  girls.  Many  articles  of  Wheeling 
glass  manufacture  find  ready  sale  in  the  markets  of  other  cities — from 
Maine  to  California ;  and  it  is,  indeed,  remarkable  that  New  England 
sand  can  be  shipped  to  Wheeling,  where  it  is  made  into  the  finest 
flint  glass  wares,  and  then  these  sent  to  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  New 
York  and  Boston,  for  sale  at  even  smaller  prices  than  their  own 
manufacturers  can  produce  like  articles.  Some  idea  may  be  had  of  the 
extent  of  the  business  done,  when  it  is  mentioned  that  to  one  house 
alone,  the  annual  cost  of  packages,  boxes,  barrels,  etc.,  for  shipment 
of  wares,  is  $15,000 ;  and  that  during  the  past  three  months,  over 
16,000  second-hand  barrels  have  been  used  at  a  cost  of  $5000.  The 
superior  quality  of  Wheeling  window  glass  is  generally  acknowledged. 
Several  of  the  finer  grades,  usually  cut  into  large  panes,  closely  resem- 
ble the  best  specimens  of  imported  plate  glass. 

"  Besides  the  manufacture  of  iron,  nails  and  glass,  there  are  several 
establishments  which  are  of  very  great  importance,  both  on  account 
of  the  amount  of  capital  invested,  and  the  number  of  skilled  laborers 
they  employ.  First  in  importance  among  these,  perhaps,  are  the  two 
extensive  ship-yards — one  in  North  Wheeling,  the  other  in  South 
Wheeling.  Many  first-class  boats  are  built  at  these  yards,  and  fur- 
nished with  the  most  improved  machinery  from  Wheeling  shops. 
There  are  also  several  extensive  wagon  and  carriage  manufactories  in 
the  city.  In  these  establishments  a  very  large  capital  is  invested. 
Their  trade  is  principally  with  the  South,  and  the  supply  of  their 
manufactures  scarcely  equals  the  demand.  The  woollen  factory  is  a 
busy  institution,  and  supplies  the  home  and  other  markets  with  many 
excellent  fabrics." 

There  are  about  34  establishments  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
the  articles  referred  to.  Besides  these,  flour,  white  lead,  and  silk  are 
also  produced  here. 

The  Ohio  is  crossed  at  Wheeling  by  a  beautiful  wire  suspension 
bridge,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  with  a  span  of  1010 
feet.  The  height  of  the  towers  is  153  feet  above  low-water  mark, 
and  60  feet  above  the  abutments.  The  bridge  is  supported  by  four 
wire  cables,  each  1380  feet  in  length,  and  8  inches  in  diameter.  The 
cost  of  the  bridge  was  $210,000  in  gold.  It  extends  from  Wheeling 
proper  to  Zanes'  Island,  now  the  7th  ward  of  the  city  of  Wheeling^ 
On  the  western  side  of  the  island,  a  covered  wooden  bridge  connects  it 
with  the  town  of  Bridgeport  in  Ohio. 
49 


770  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Wheeling  was  originally  settled  in  1769  by  Colonel  Ebenezer  Zane, 
his  brothers  Silas  and  Jonathan,  and  a  number  of  others.  They 
chose  the  site  of  the  present  city  for  their  new  home,  and  the  next 
spring  brought  out  their  families.  The  name  of  the  city  is  derived 
from  an  Indian  word — Weeling — signifying  the  place  of  a  head.  Some 
years  before  the  settlement  a  party  of  whites  descending  the  Ohio, 
stopped  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  They  were  murdered  by  the 
Indians,  who  cut  off  the  head  of  one  of  the  victims,  and  placed  it  on  a 
pole  with  the  face  to  the  river,  and  called  the  spot  Weeling.  Soon  after 
the  settlement  a  fort  was  built  near  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  In  Septem- 
ber, 1777,  this  Fort  (Henry)  was  besieged  by  a  force  of  about  500 
Indian  warriors,  led  by  the  notorious  renegade  Simon  Girty.  The 
garrison,  only  42  strong,  repulsed  the  attack,  until  the  arrival  of  a 
reinforcement  of  about  50  men,  when  the  savages  raised  the  siege  and 
retreated.  After  the  close  of  the  Revolution  the  city  grew  slowly. 
The  introduction  of  steam  navigation  on  the  Ohio,  gave  it  an  impetus, 
and  it  soon  entered  upon  its  manufacturing  career,  which  can  be 
limited  only  by  the  amount  of  capital  available  to  its  citizens.  After 
the  secession  of  Virginia,  and  the  separation  from  the  old  State,  it 
was  made  the  capital  of  West  Virginia,  and  continued  to  be  the 
seat  of  Government  until  the  removal  of  the  capital  to  Charleston, 
in  1870. 

PARKERSBTJRG, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Wood  county,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Kanawha,  100 
miles  below  Wheeling,  and  about  400  miles  by  railway  west  of 
Washington.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and  is  neatly  built.  It  contains  a 
Court  House,  about  5  churches,  several  good  schools,  3  newspaper 
offices,  and  several  steam  mills.  It  is  the  western  terminus  of  the 
Northwestern  Virginia  railway,  a  branch  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
railway.  The  Ohio  River  is  here  crossed  by  a  fine  railway  bridge,  by 
means  of  which  close  connections  are  made  with  the  railways  leading 
to  Cincinnati,  etc.  The  city  is  also  actively  engaged  in  the  river 
trade.  The  valley  of  the  Little  Kanawha  abounds  in  oil  wells,  many  of 
which  are  very  profitable.  Just  below  Parkersburg  is  the  long  cele- 
brated Blannerhasset's  Island.  Good  turnpike  roads  extend  from 
Parkersburg  to  Winchester  and  Staunton,  in  Eastern  Virginia.  In 
1870,  the  population  of  Parkersburg  was  5546. 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  YYl 

MISCELLANY. 
BORDER    LIFE. 

Dodridge,  iu  his  "Notes  on  Western  Virginia,"  gives  the  following  account 
ef  the  life  led  by  the  settlers  of  that  region  : 

The  settlements  on  this  side  of  the  mountains  commenced  along  the  Mononga- 
hela,  and  between  that  river  and  the  Laurel  ridge,  in  the  year  1772.  In  the 
succeeding  year  they  reached  the  Ohio  River.  The  greater  number  of  the  first 
settlers  came  from  the  upper  parts  of  the  then  colonies  of  Maryland  and  Virginia. 
Braddock's  trail,  as  it  was  called,  was  the  route  by  which  the  greater  number  of 
them  crossed  the  mountains.  A  less  number  of  them  came  by  the  way  of  Bed- 
ford and  Fort  Ligonier.  They  effected  their  removals  on  horses  furnished  with 
pack-saddles.  This  was  the  more  easily  done,  as  but  few  of  these  early  adven- 
turers into  the  wilderness  were  encumbered  with  much  baggage. 

Land  was  the  object  which  invited  the  greater  number  of  these  people  to  cross 
the  mountain,  for,  as  the  saying  then  was,  "It  was  to  be  had  here  for  taking 
up;  "  that  is,  building  a  cabin  and  raising  a  crop  of  grain,  however  small,  of  any 
kind,  entitled  the  occupant  to  400  acres  of  land,  and  a  pre-emption  right  to  1000 
acres  more  adjoining,  to  be  secured  by  a  land-office  warrant.  This  right  was  to 
take  effect  if  there  happened  to  be  so  much  vacant  land,  or  any  part  thereof,  ad- 
joining the  tract  secured  by  the  settlement  right. 

At  an  early  period  the  Government  of  Virginia  appointed  three  commissioners 
to  give  certificates  of  settlement  rights.  These  certificates,  together  with  the  sur- 
veyor's plat,  were  sent  to  the  land-office  of  the  State,  where  they  lay  six  months, 
to  await  any  caveat  which  might  be  offered.  If  none  was  offered,,  the  patent 
then  issued. 

There  was,  at  an  early  period  of  our  settlements,  an  inferior  kind  of  land  title, 
denominated  a  "tomahawk  right,"  which  was  made  by  deadening  a  few  trees 
near  the  head  of  a  spring,  and  marking  the  bark  of  some  one  or  more  of  them 
with  the  initials  of  the  name  of  the  person  who  made  the  improvement.  I  re- 
member having  seen  a  number  of  those  ''tomahawk  rights"  when  a  boy.  For 
a  long  time  many  of  them  bore  the  names  of  those  who  made  them.  I  have  no 
knowledge  of  the  efficacy  of  the  tomahawk  improvement,  or  whether  it  conferred 
any  right  whatever,  unless  followed  by  an  actual  settlement.  These  rights,  how- 
ever, were  often  bought  and  sold.  Those  who  wished  to  make  settlements  on 
their  favorite  tracts  of  land,  bought  up  the  tomahawk  improvements,  rather  than 
enter  into  quarrels  with  those  who  had  made  them.  Other  improvers  of  the  land, 
with  a  view  to  actual  settlement,  and  who  happened  to  be  stout  veteran  fellows, 
took  a  very  different  course  from  that  of  purchasing  the  "tomahawk  rights." 
When  annoyed  by  the  claimants  under  those  rights,  they  deliberately  cut  a  few 
good  hickories,  and  gave  them  what  was  called  in  those  days  a  "laced  jacket," 
that  is,  a  sound  whipping. 

Some  of  the  early  settlers  took  the  precaution  to  come  over  the  mountains  in 
the  spring,  leaving  their  families  behind  to  raise  a  crop  of  corn,  and  then  return 
and  bring  them  out  in  the  fall.  This  I  should  think  was  the  better  way.  Others, 
especially  those  whose  families  were  small,  brought  them  with  them  in  the 
spring.  My  father  took  the  latter  course.  His  family  was  but  small,  and  1;« 


772  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

brought  them  all  with  him.  The  Indian  meal  which  he  brought  over  the  moun- 
tain was  expended  six  weeks  too  soon,  so  that  for  that  length  of  time  we  had  to 
live  without  bread.  The  lean  venison  and  the  breast  of  wild  turkeys  we  were 
taught  to  call  bread.  The  flesh  of  the  bear  was  denominated  meat.  This  artifice 
did  not  succeed  very  well.  After  living  in  this  way  for  some  time,  we  became 
sickly,  the  stomach  seemed  to  be  always  empty  and  tormented  with  a  sense  of 
hunger.  I  remember  how  narrowly  the  children  watched  the  growth  of  the  po- 
tato tops,  pumpkin  and  squash  vines,  hoping  from  day  to  day  to  get  something  to 
answer  in  the  place  of  bread.  How  delicious  was  the  taste  of  the  young  potatoes 
when  we  got  them  I  What  a  jubilee,  when  we  were  permitted  to  pull  the  young 
corn  for  roasting  ears.  Still  more  so,  when  it  had  acquired  sufficient  hardness 
to  be  made  into  jonny-cakes  by  the  aid  of  a  tin  grater.  We  then  became  healthy, 
vigorous,  and  contented  with  our  situation,  poor  as  it  was. 

My  father,  with  a  small  number  of  his  neighbors,  made  their  settlements  in  the 
spring  of  1773.  Though  they  were  in  a  poor  and  destitute  situation,  they  never- 
theless lived  in  peace  ;  but  their  tranquillity  was  not  of  long  continuance.  Those 
most  atrocious  murders  of  the  peaceable,  inoffensive  Indians,  at  Captina  and 
Yellow  Creek,  brought  on  the  war  of  Lord  Dunmore,  in  the  spring  of  the  year 
1774.  Our  little  settlement  then  broke  up.  The  women  and  children  were  re- 
moved to  Morris's  Fort,  in  Sandy  Creek  glade,  some  distance  to  the  east  of 
Uniontown.  The  fort  consisted  of  an  assemblage  of  small  hovels,  situated  on 
the  margin  of  a  large  and  noxious  marsh,  the  effluvia  of  which  gave  the  most  of 
the  women  and  children  the  fever  and  ague.  The  men  were  compelled  by  ne- 
cessity to  return  home,  and  risk  the  tomahawk  and  scalping- knife  of  the  Indians, 
in  raising  corn  to  keep  their  families  from  starvation  the  succeeding  winter. 
Those  sufferings,  dangers,  and  losses,  were  the  tribute  we  had  to  pay  to  that 
thirst  for  blood  which  actuated  those  veteran  murderers  who  brought  the  war 
upon  us.  The  memory  of  the  sufferers  in  this  war,  as  well  as  that  of  their  de- 
scendants, still  looks  back  upon  them  with  regret  and  abhorrence,  and  the  page 
of  history  will  consign  their  names  to  posterity  with  the  full  weight  of  infamy 
they  deserve. 

My  father,  like  many  others,  believed  that,  having  secured  his  legal  allotment, 
the  rest  of  the  country  belonged  of  right  to  those  who  chose  to  settle  in  it.  There 
was  a  piece  of  vacant  land  adjoining  his  tract,  amounting  to  about  200  acres. 
To  this  tract  of  land  he  had  the  pre-emption  right,  and  accordingly  secured  it  by 
warrant ;  but  his  conscience  would  not  permit  him  to  retain  it  in  his  family  ;  he 
therefore  gave  it  to  an  apprentice  lad  whom  he  had  raised  in  his  house.  This  lad 
sold  it  to  an  uncle  of  mine  for  a  cow  and  a  calf,  and  a  wool  hat. 

Owing  to  the  equal  distribution  of  real  property  directed  by  our  land  laws,  and 
the  sterling  integrity  of  our  forefathers  in  their  observance  of  them,  we  have  no 
districts  of  "sold  land,"  as  it  is  called,  that  is,  large  tracts  of  land  in  the  hands 
of  individuals,  or  companies,  who  neither  sell  nor  improve  them,  as  is  the  case 
in  Lower  Canada  and  the  northwestern  part  of  Pennsylvania.  These  unsettled 
tracts  make  huge  blanks  in  the  population  of  the  country  where  they  exist. 

The  division-lines  between  those  whose  lands  adjoined  were  generally  made  in 
an  amicable  manner,  before  any  survey  of  them  was  made,  by  the  parties  con- 
cerned. In  doing  this,  they  were  guided  mainly  by  the  tops  of  ridges  and  water- 
courses, but  particularly  the  former.  Hence  the  greater  number  of  farms  in  the 
western  parts  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia  bear  a  striking  resemblance  to  an 
amphitheatre.  The  buildings  occupy  a  low  situation,  and  the  tops  of  the 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  778 

surrounding  hills  are  the  boundaries  of  the  tract  to  which  the  family  mansion 
belongs. 

Our  forefathers  were  fond  of  farms  of  this  description,  because,  as  they  said, 
they  were  attended  with  this  convenience,  "that  everything  comes  to  the  house 
down  hill.'1 

Most  of  the  early  settlers  considered  their  land  as  of  little  value,  from  an  appre- 
hension that  after  a  few  years'  cultivation  it  would  lose  its  fertility,  at  least  for  a 
long  time.  I  have  often  heard  them  say  that  such  a  field  would  bear  so  many 
crops,  and  another  so  many  more  or  less  than  that.  The  ground  of  this  belief 
concerning  the  short-lived  fertility  of  the  land  in  this  country,  was  the  poverty 
of  a  great  proportion  of  the  land  in  the  lower  parts  of  Maryland  and  Virginia, 
which,  after  producing  a  few  crops,  became  unfit  for  use,  and  was  thrown  out 
into  commons. 

My  reader  will  naturally  ask  where  were  their  mills  for  grinding  grain  ?  Where 
their  tanneries  for  making  leather  ?  Where  their  smith-shops  for  making  and 
repairing  their  farming  utensils  ?  Who  were  their  carpenters,  tailors,  cabinet 
workmen,  shoemakers,  and  weavers  ?  The  answer  is,  those  manufacturers  did 
not  exist,  nor  had  they  any  tradesmen  who  were  professedly  such.  Every  family 
was  under  the  necessity  of  doing  everything  for  themselves  as  well  as  they  could. 
The  hommony-block  and  hand-mills  were  in  use  in  most  of  our  houses.  The 
first  was  made  of  a  large  block  of  wood  about  3  feet  long,  with  an  excavation 
burned  in  one  end,  wide  at  the  top  and  narrow  at  the  bottom,  so  that  the  action 
of  the  pestle  on  the  bottom  threw  the  corn  up  to  the  sides  towards  the  top  of  it, 
from  whence  it  continually  fell  down  into  the  centre.  In  consequence  of  this 
movement,  the  whole  mass  of  the  grain  was  pretty  equally  subjected  to  the 
strokes  of  the  pestle.  In  the  fall  of  the  year,  while  the  Indian  corn  was  soft,  the 
block  and  pestle  did  very  well  for  making  meal  for  jonny-cake  and  mush,  but 
were  rather  slow  when  the  corn  became  hard. 

The  sweep  was  sometimes  used  to  lessen  the  toil  of  pounding  grain  into  meal. 
This  was  a  pole  of  some  springy  elastic  wood,  30  feet  long  or  more  ;  the  butt  end 
was  placed  under  the  side  of  a  house,  or  a  large  stump.  This  pole  was  supported 
by  two  forks,  placed  about  one-third  of  its  length  from  the  butt  end,  so  as  to  ele- 
vate the  small  end  about  15  feet  from  the  ground  ;  to  this  was  attached,  by  a  large 
mortise,  a  piece  of  a  sapling,  about  5  or  6  inches  in  diameter,  and  8  or  10  feet 
long.  The  lower  end  of  this  was  shaped  so  as  to  answer  for  a  pestle.  A  pin  of 
wood  was  put  through  it  at  a  proper  height,  so  that  two  persons  could  work  at 
the  sweep  at  once.  This  simple  machine  very  much  lessened  the  labor,  and  ex- 
pedited the  work.  I  remember  that,  when  a  boy,  I  put  up  an  excellent  sweep  at 
my  father's.  It  was  made  of  a  sugar-tree  sapling.  It  was  kept  going  almost 
constantly,  from  morning  till  night,  by  our  neighbors  for  several  weeks.  In  the 
Greenbrier  country,  where  they  had  a  number  of  saltpetre  caves,  the  first  settlers 
made  plenty  of  excellent  gunpowder  by  means  of  those  sweeps  and  mortars. 

A  machine  still  more  simple  than  the  mortar  and  pestle  was  used  for  making 
meal,  while  the  corn  was  too  soft  to  be  beaten.  It  was  called  a  grater.  This 
was  a  half-circular  piece  of  tin,  perforated  with  a  punch  from  the  concave  side, 
and  nailed  by  its  edges  to  a  block  of  wood.  The  ears  of  corn  were  rubbed  on  the 
rough  edges  of  the  holes,  while  the  meal  fell  through  them  on  the  board  or  block 
to  which  the  grater  was  nailed,  which,  being  in  a  slanting  direction,  discharged 
the  meal  into  a  cloth  or  bowl  placed  for  its  reception.  This,  to  be  sure,  was  a 
slow  way  of  making  meal,  but  necessity  has  no  law. 


774  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  band-mill  was  better  than  the  mortar  and  grater.  It  was  made  of  two 
circular  stones,  the  lowest  of  which  was  called  the  bed-stone,  the  upper  one  the 
runner.  These  were  placed  in  a  hoop,  with  a  spout  for  discharging  the  meal. 
A  staff  was  let  into  a  hole  in  the  upper  surface  of  the  runner,  near  the  outer  edge, 
and  its  upper  end  through  a  hole  in  a  board  fastened  to  a  joist  above,  so  that  two 
persons  could  be  employed  in  turning  the  mill  at  the  same  time.  The  grain  was 
put  into  the  opening  in  the  runner  by  hand.  These  mills  are  still  in  use  in  Pal- 
estine, the  ancient  country  of  the  Jews.  To  a  mill  of  this  sort  our  Saviour  al- 
luded, when,  with  reference  to  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem,  he  said :  "Two 
women  shall  be  grinding  at  a  mill,  the  one  shall  be  taken  and  the  other  left." 
This  mill  is  much  preferable  to  that  used  at  present  in  Upper  Egypt  for  making 
the  dhoura  bread.  It  is  a  smooth  stone,  placed  on  an  inclined  plane,  upon  which 
the  grain  is  spread,  which  is  made  into  meal  by  rubbing  another  stone  up  and 
down  upon  it. 

Our  first  water-mills  were  of  that  description  denominated  tub-mills.  It  con- 
sists of  a  perpendicular  shaft,  to  the  lower  end  of  which  a  horizontal  wheel  of 
about  4  or  5  feet  in  diameter  is  attached  ;  the  upper  end  passes  through  the  bed- 
stone, and  carries  the  runner  after  the  manner  of  a  trundlehead.  These  mills 
were  built  with  very  little  expense,  and  many  of  them  answered  the  purpose  very 
well.  Instead  of  bolting  cloths,  sifters  were  in  general  use.  They  were  made 
of  deerskins,  in  a  state  of  parchment,  stretched  over  a  hoop,  and  perforated  with 
a  hot  wire. 

Our  clothing  was  all  of  domestic  manufacture.  We  had  no  other  resource  for 
clothing,  and  this  indeed  was  a  poor  one.  The  crops  of  flax  often  failed,  and  the 
sheep  were  destroyed  by  the  wolves.  Linsey,  which  is  made  of  flax  and  wool — 
the  former  the  chain,  the  latter  the  filling — was  the  warmest  and  most  substantial 
cloth  we  could  make.  Almost  every  house  contained  a  loom,  and  almost  every 
woman  was  a  weaver. 

Every  family  tanned  their  own  leather.  The  tan-vat  was  a  large  trough  sunk 
to  the  upper  edge  in  the  ground.  A  quantity  of  bark  was  easily  obtained  every 
spring  in  clearing  and  fencing  land.  This,  after  drying,  was  brought  in,  and  in 
wet 'days  was  shaved  and  pounded  on  a  block  of  wood,  with  an  axe  or  mallet. 
Ashes  were  used  in  place  of  lime,  for  taking  off  the  hair.  Bears'  oil,  hogs'  lard, 
and  tallow,  answered  the  place  of  fish  oil.  The  leather,  to  be  sure,  was  coarse  ; 
but  it  was  substantially  good.  The  operation  of  currying  was  performed  by  a 
drawing-knife,  with  its  edge  turned,  after  the  manner  of  a  curry  ing-knife.  The 
blacking  for  the  leather  was  made  of  soot  and  hogs'  lard. 

Almost  every  family  contained  its  own  tailors  and  shoemakers.  Those  who 
could  not  make  shoes,  could  make  shoepacks.  These,  like  moccasins,  were  made 
of  a  single  piece  of  leather,  with  the  exception  of  a  tongue-piece  on  the  top  of  the 
foot.  This  was  about  2  inches  broad,  and  circular  at  the  lower  end.  To  this  the 
main  piece  of  leather  was  sewed  with  a  gathering  stitch.  The  seam  behind  was 
like  that  of  a  moccasin.  To  the  shoepack  a  sole  was  sometimes  added.  The 
women  did  the  tailor  work.  They  could  all  cut  out  and  make  hunting-shirts, 
leggins,  and  drawers. 

The  state  of  society  which  existed  in  our  country  at  an  early  period  of  its  set- 
tlement, was  well  calculated  to  call  into  action  every  native  mechanical  genius. 
This  happened  in  this  country  There  was  in  almost  every  neighborhood  some 
one,  whose  natural  ingenuity  enabled  him  to  do  many  things  for  himself  and  his 
neighbors,  far  above  what  could  have  been  reasonably  expected.  With  the  few 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  775 

tools  which  they  brought  with  them  into  the  country,  they  certainly  performed 
wonders.  Their  plows,  harrows  with  wooden  teeth,  and  sleds,  were  in  many 
instances  well  made.  Their  cooper-ware,  which  comprehended  everything  for 
holding  milk  and  water,  was  generally  pretty  well  executed.  The  cedar-ware, 
by  having  alternately  a  white  and  red  stave,  was  then  thought  beautiful ;  many 
of  their  puncheon  floors  were  very  neat,  their  joints  close,  and  the  top  even  and 
smooth.  Their  looms,  although  heavy,  did  very  well.  Those  who  could  not 
exercise  these  mechanic  arts,  were  under  the  necessity  of  giving  labor  or  barter 
to  their  neighbors  in  exchange  for  the  use  of  them,  so  far  as  their  necessities 
required. 

For  a  long  time  after  the  first  settlement  of  this  country,  the  inhabitants  in 
general  married  young.  There  was  no  distinction  of  rank,  and  very  little  of  for- 
tune. On  these  accounts  the  first  impression  of  love  resulted  in  marriage  ;  and  a 
family  establishment  cost  but  a  little  labor,  and  nothing  else.  A  description  of  a 
wedding,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end,  will  serve  to  show  the  manners  of  our 
forefathers,  and  mark  the  grade  of  civilization  which  has  succeeded  to  their  rude 
state  of  society  in  the  course  of  a  few  years.  At  an  early  period,  the  practice  of 
celebrating  the  marriage  at  the  house  of  the  bride  began,  and,  it  should  seem, 
with  great  propriety.  She  also  had  the  choice  of  the  priest  to  perform  the  cere- 
mony. 

A  wedding  engaged  the  attention  of  a  whole  neighborhood  ;  and  the  frolic  was 
anticipated  by  old  and  young  with  eager  expectation.  This  is  not  to  be  wondered 
at,  when  it  is  told  that  a  wedding  was  almost  the  only  gathering  which  was  not 
accompanied  with  the  labor  of  reaping,  log-rolling,  building  a  cabin,  or  planning 
some  scout  or  campaign. 

In  the  morning  of  the  wedding-day,  the  groom  and  his  attendants  assembled  at 
the  house  of  his  father,  for  the  purpose  of  reaching  the  mansion  of  his  bride  by 
noon,  which  was  the  usual  time  for  celebrating  the  nuptials,  which  for  certain 
must  take  place  before  dinner. 

Let  the  reader  imagine  an  assemblage  of  people,  without  a  store,  tailor,  or 
mantuamaker,  within  100  miles  ;  and  an  assemblage  of  horses,  without  a  black- 
smith or  saddler  within  an  equal  distance.  The  gentlemen  dressed  in  shoepacks, 
moccasins,  leather  breeches,  leggins,  linsey  hunting-shirts,  and  all  home-made. 
The  ladies  dressed  in  linsey  petticoats,  and  linsey  or  linen  bed-gowns,  coarse 
shoes,  stockings,  handkerchiefs,  and  buckskin  gloves,  if  any.  If  there  were  any 
buckles,  rings,  buttons,  or  ruffles,  they  were  the  relics  of  old  times ;  family  pieces, 
from  parents  or  grand-parents.  The  horses  were  caparisoned  with  old  saddles, 
old  bridles  or  halters,  and  pack-saddles,  with  a  bag  or  blanket  thrown  over  them; 
a  rope  or  string  as  often  constituted  the  girth  as  a  piece  of  leather. 

The  march,  in  double  file,  was  often  interrupted  by  the  narrowness  and  ob- 
structions of  our  horse-paths,  as  they  were  called,  for  we  had  no  roads  ;  and  these 
difficulties  were  often  increased,  sometimes  by  the  good,  and  sometimes  by  the 
ill-will  of  neighbors,  by  falling  trees,  and  tying  grape-vines  across  the  way. 
Sometimes  an  ambuscade  was  formed  by  the  wayside,  and  an  unexpected  dis- 
charge of  several  guns  took  place,  so  as  to  cover  the  wedding-party  with  smoke. 
Let  the  reader  imagine  the  scene  which  followed  this  discharge ;  the  sudden 
spring  of  the  horses,  the  shrieks  of  the  girls,  and  the  chivalric  bustle  of  their 
partners  to  save  them  from  falling.  Sometimes,  in  spite  of  all  that  could  be  done 
to  prevent  it,  some  were  thrown  to  the  ground.  If  a  wrist,  elbow,  or  ankle  hap- 
pened to  be  sprained,  it  was  tied  with  a  handkerchief,  and  little  more  was  thought 
or  said  about  it. 


776  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Another  ceremony  commonly  took  place  before  the  party  reached  the  house  of 
the  bride,  after  the  practice  of  making  whiskey  began,  which  was  at  an  early 
period  ;  when  the  party  were  about  a  mile  from  the  place  of  their  destination, 
two  young  men  would  single  out  to  run  for  the  bottle  ;  the  worse  the  path,  the 
more  logs,  brush,  and  deep  hollows,  the  better,  as  these  obstacles  afforded  an  op- 
portunity for  the  greater  display  of  intrepidity  and  horsemanship.  The  English 
fox-chase,  in  point  of  clanger  to  the  riders  and  their  horses,  is  nothing  to  this  race 
for  the  bottle.  The  start  was  announced  by  an  Indian  yell ;  logs,  brush,  muddy 
hollows,  hill  and  glen,  were  speedily  passed  by  the  rival  ponies.  The  bottle  was 
always  filled  for  the  occasion,  so  that  there  was  no  use  for  judges ;  for  the  first 
who  reached  the  door  was  presented  with  the  prize,  with  which  he  returned  in 
triumph  to  the  company.  On  approaching  them,  he  announced  his  victory  over 
his  rival  by  a  shrill  whoop.  At  the  head  of  the  troop,  he  gave  the  bottle  first  to 
the  groom  and  his  attendants,  and  then  to  each  pair  in  succession  to  the  rear  of 
the  line,  giving  each  a  dram ;  and  then,  putting  the  bottle  in  the  bosom  of  his 
hunting-shirt,  took  his  station  in  the  company. 

The  ceremony  of  the  marriage  preceded  the  dinner,  which  was  a  substantial 
backwoods  feast,  of  beef,  pork,  fowls,  and  sometimes  venison  and  bear-meat, 
roasted  and  boiled,  with  plenty  of  potatoes,  cabbage,  and  other  vegetables.  Dur- 
ing the  dinner  the  greatest  hilarity  always  prevailed,  although  the  table  might  be 
a  large  slab  of  timber,  hewed  out  with  a  broadaxe,  supported  by  four  sticks  set  in 
auger-holes ;  and  the  furniture,  some  old  pewter  dishes  and  plates ;  the  rest, 
wooden  bowls  and  trenchers ;  a  few  pewter  spoons,  much  battered  about  the 
edges,  were  to  be  seen  at  some  tables.  The  rest  were  made  of  horns.  If  knives 
were  scarce,  the  deficiency  was  made  up  by  the  scalping-knives,  which  were  car- 
ried in  sheaths  suspended  to  the  belt  of  the  hunting-shirt. 

After  dinner  the  dancing  commenced,  and  generally  lasted  till  the  next  morn- 
ing. The  figures  of  the  dances  were  three  and  four-handed  reels,  or  square  setts 
and  jigs.  The  commencement  was  always  a  square  four,  which  was  followed  by 
what  was  called  jigging  it  off;  'that  is,  two  of  the  four  would  single  out  for  a  jig, 
and  were  followed  by  the  remaining  couple.  The  jigs  were  often  accompanied 
with  what  was  called  cutting  out ;  that  is,  when  either  of  the  parties  became  tired 
of  the  dance,  on  intimation  the  place  was  supplied  by  some  one  of  the  company 
without  any  interruption  of  the  dance.  In  this  way  a  dance  was  often  continued 
till  the  musician  was  heartily  tired  of  his  situation.  Towards  the  latter  part  of 
the^night,  if  any  of  the  company,  through  weariness,  attempted  to  conceal 
themselves,  for  the  purpose  of  sleeping,  they  were  hunted  up,  paraded  on  the 
floor,  and  the  fiddler  ordered  to  play,  "Hang  out  till  to-morrow  morning." 

About  9  or  10  o'clock,  a  deputation  of  the  young  ladies  stole  off  the  bride,  and 
put  her  to  bed.  In  doing  this,  it  frequently  happened  that  they  had  to  ascend  a 
ladder,  instead  of  a  pair  of  stairs,  leading  from  the  dining  and  ball-room  to  the 
loft,  the  floor  of  which  was  made  of  clapboards,  lying  loose,  and  without  nails. 
As  the  foot  of  the  ladder  was  commonly  behind  the  door,  which  was  purposely 
opened,  for  the  occasion,  and  its  rounds  at  the  inner  ends  were  well  hung  with 
hunting-shirts,  petticoats,  and  other  articles  of  clothing,  the  candles  being  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  house,  the  exit  of  the  bride  was  noticed  by  but  few.  This 
done,  a  deputation  of  young  men  in  like  manner  stole  off  the  groom,  and  placed 
him  snugly  by  the  side  of  his  bride.  The  dance  still  continued  ;  and  if  seats 
happened  to  be  scarce,  which  was  often  the  case,  every  young  man,  when  not 
engaged  in  the  dance,  was  obliged  to  offer  his  lap  as  a  seat  for  one  of  the  girls ; 


WEST  VIRGINIA.  777 

and  the  offer  was  sure  to  be  accepted.  In  the  midst  of  this  hilarity,  the  bride 
and  groom  were  not  forgotten.  Pretty  late  in  the  night,  some  one  would  remind 
the  company  that  the  new  couple  must  stand  in  need  of  some  refreshment ;  black 
Betty,  which  was  the  name  of  the  bottle,  was  called  for,  and  sent  up  the  ladder ; 
but  sometimes  black  Betty  did  not  go  alone.  I  have  many  times  seen  as  much 
bread,  beef,  pork,  and  cabbage  sent  along  with  her  as  would  afford  a  good  meal 
for  half  a  dozen  hungry  men.  The  young  couple  were  compelled  to  eat  and 
drink,  more  or  less,  of  whatever  was  offered  them. 

It  often  happened  that  some  neighbors  or  relations,  not  being  asked  to  the 
wedding,  took  offence  ;  and  the  mode  of  revenge  adopted  by  them  on  such  occa- 
sions was  that  of  cutting  off  the  manes,  foretops,  and  tails  of  the  horses  of  the 
wedding  company. 

On  returning  to  the  infare,  the  order  of  procession,  and  the  race  for  black 
Betty,  was  the  same  as  before.  The  feasting  and  dancing  often  lasted  for  several 
days,  at  the  end  of  which  the  whole  company  were  so  exhausted  with  loss  of 
sleep,  that  several  days'  rest  were  requisite  to  fit  them  to  return  to  their  ordinary 
labors. 

Should  I  be  asked  why  I  have  presented  this  unpleasant  portrait  of  the  rude 
manners  of  our  forefathers,  I  in  my  turn  would  ask  my  reader,  why  are  you 
pleased  with  the  histories  of  the  blood  and  carnage  of  battles  ?  Why  are  you  de- 
lighted with  the  fictions  of  poetry,  the  novel,  and  romance  ?  I  have  related  truth, 
and  only  truth,  strange  as  it  may  seem.  I  have  depicted  a  state  of  society  and 
manners  which  are  fast  vanishing  from  the  memory  of  man,  with  a  view  to  give 
the  youth  of  our  country  a  knowledge  of  the  advantages  of  civilization,  and  to 
give  contentment  to  the  aged,  by  preventing  them  from  saying,  "that  former 
times  were  better  than  the  present." 


TENNESSEE. 

Area,  .    . 45,600  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 1,109,801 

(Whites,  826,782 ;  Negroes,  283,019.) 
Population  in  1870,     ......    1,258, 520 

THE  State  of  Tennessee  is  situated  between  35°  and  36°  36'  N.  lati- 
tude, and  between  81°  40'  and  90°  15'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Kentucky  and  Virginia,  on  the  east  by  North  Carolina,  on 
the  south  by  North  Carolina,  Georgia,  Alabama,  and  Mississippi,  and 
on  the  west  by  Arkansas  and  Missouri.  Its  extreme  length,  from  east 
to  west,  is  about  430  miles,  and  its  average  breadth  about  110  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  eastern  part  of  the  State  is  crossed  by  the  various  ranges  of 
the  great  Alleghany  chain,  which  are  here  known  as  the  Stone,  Iron, 
Bald,  and  Unaka  Mountains.  The  Cumberland  Mountains,  which 
form  the  southeastern  border  of  Kentucky,  cross  this  State  in  a  south- 
western direction,  and  pass  into  Alabama.  They  lie  about  40  or  50 
miles  west  of  the  Alleghany  range,  the  valley  between  them  being 
watered  by  the  Holston,  Clinch,  and  the  other  head  waters  of  the 
Tennessee  River.  The  Cumberland  Mountains  cover  an  area  of  about 
fifty  miles  wide,  and  are  thickly  wooded.  Beyond  this  range  a  fine 
rolling  country,  known  as  Middle  Tennessee,  extends  westward  to  the 
Tennessee  River.  Between  that  stream  and  the  Mississippi  the  land 
is  either  greatly  rolling  or  flat. 

The  Mississippi  River  washes  the  entire  western  shore  of  the  State. 
Memphis,  the  principal  city,  is  situated  on  this  river,  in  the  extreme 
southwestern  corner  of  Tennessee.  The  Tennessee  River  is  formed  by 
778 


TENNESSEE.  779 

the  confluence  of  the  Holston  and  Clinch  rivers,  which,  rising  in  the 
Alleghany  Mountains,  in  Virginia,  unite  at  Kingston,  in  this  State. 
It  flows  in  a  generally  southwestern  direction  to  the  base  of  the  Cum- 
berland Mountains,  at  the  point  where  the  boundaries  of  Tennessee, 
Alabama,  and  Georgia  touch  each  other,  and  then  sweeps  around  to 
the  southwest,  flows  across  the  entire  northern  part  of  Alabama, 
touches  the  northeastern  corner  of  Mississippi,  and,  bending  to  the 
north,  crosses  the  States  of  Tennessee  and  Kentucky,  and  empties  into 
the  Ohio  River  at  Paducah,  48  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  latter 
stream.  At  Florence,  Alabama,  280  miles  from  its  mouth,  the  navi- 
gation is  interrupted  by  the  Muscle  Shoals,  a  series  of  fine  rapids,  ex- 
tending for  about  20  miles  above  this  point.  Beyond  these  rapids, 
the  stream  is  again  navigable  for  steamers  as  far  as  Knoxville,  on  the 
Holston,  500  miles  above  Florence.  The  Tennessee  is  800  miles 
long,  flowing  through  this  State  for  400  miles,  and  its  principal 
branch,  the  Holstou,  300  miles  long,  making  a  total  length  of  1100 
miles.  The  chief  towns  of  this  State  on  its  banks  are  Knoxville 
and  Chattanooga.  It  flows  for  the  most  part  through  a  beautiful  and 
fertile  country.  The  Cumberland  River ,  which  flows  across  the 
northern  part  of  Middle  Tennessee,  rises  in  the  Cumberland  Moun- 
tains in  the  southeastern  part  of  Kentucky.  It  enters  this  State  at 
the  northeast  angle  of  Jackson  county,  and  flows  in  a  generally  south- 
western direction  to  Nashville,  after  which  its  course  is  mainly  north- 
west. It  crosses  the  southern  boundary  of  Kentucky,  about  10  miles 
east  of  the  Tennessee  River,  and  flows  parallel  with  that  stream  into 
the  Ohio.  It  is  about  600  miles  long.  At  high  water  it  is  navigable 
for  large  steamers  to  Nashville,  200  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  for 
small  steamers  300  miles  higher.  The  Forked  Deer,  Big  Hatchie, 
and  Obion  flow  into  the  Mississippi,  and  are  each  navigable  for  a 
greater  or  less  distance.  All  the  waters  of  this  State  ultimately  find 
their  way  to  the  Mississippi. 

MINERALS. 

"  The  mineral  resources  of  Tennessee  are  developed  to  but  a  limited 
extent,  though  her  hills  and  mountains  contain  stores  of  iron,  of  coal, 
and  of  copper,  of  zinc,  of  sandstone,  and  of  the  finest  marble,  awaiting 
the  capital,  enterprise,  and  labor  that  shall  dig  out  and  utilize  these 
dormant  mines  of  wealth.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  great  abundance  in 
nearly  all  the  counties  of  Eastern  and  Middle  Tennessee;  copper,  in 
Greene,  Sevier,  Polk,  Perry,  and  other  counties;  coal,  in  the  coun- 


780  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ties  of  Campbell,  Rhea,  Marion,  etc. ;  some  gold  is  reported  in  Polk, 
salts,  in  Greene  and  Hawkins ;  lead,  in  Perry ;  fine  marble  and  build- 
ing-stones, in  Hawkins,  Campbell,  Monroe,  Meigs,  Giles,  and  William- 
son ;  thick  stratum  of  shale,  in  Coffee,  etc.,  etc.  The  timber  resources 
are  also  extensive,  embracing  a  great  variety,  and  many  of  the  finest 
quality  of  forest  trees — hickory,  the  various  oaks,  poplar,  walnut,  ash, 
beech,  chestnut,  locust,  cedar,  sugar,  pine,  etc.,  which  cover  a  large 
portion  of  the  vast  tracts  classed  '  wild  or  unimproved  lands.'  The 
soil  ranges  from  that  of  the  deep  rich  bottoms,  of  exhaustless  fertility, 
to  light  and  hilly  uplands,  which  require  high  culture  to  become  pro- 
ductive. In  a  number  of  counties,  the  iron  interest  has  been  partially 
developed.  In  Greene,  one  furnace  is  in  operation,  and  a  northern 
company  have  purchased  several  thousand  acres  of  ore-lands,  and  will 
soon  have  extensive  works  completed.  Near  the  town  of  Greeneville, 
there  is  a. bed  of  sulphate  of  iron,  from  which  copperas  was  made 
during  the  war,  and  where  even  the  clay  is  impregnated  with  the 
mineral.  Our  Montgomery  correspondent  says :  '  that  within  twenty- 
five  miles  of  Clarksville  there  are  from  ten  to  twenty  furnaces  lying 
idle  for  want  of  capital ;  most  of  them  were  burned  during  the  war, 
and  the  proprietors  being  unable  to  rebuild  and  run  them,  would  sell 
out  very  low/  The  zinc  of  Greene  county  is  said  to  be  very  rich ; 
during  the  war,  Epsom  salts  were  also  made  to  some  extent  in  the 
mountains.  In  Hawkins,  our  correspondent  states,  '  there  is  an 
underground  stream  of  salt  water  traversing  the  valley,  which  has 
been  tapped  at  several  points,  at  one  of  which  the  manufacture  of  salt 
has  been  successfully  prosecuted  for  a  number  of  years,  though  not 
upon  a  large  scale ;  but  it  is  thought  that,  with  capital  and  enterprise, 
it  might  be  made  to  rival  the  salt- wells  of  southwestern  Virginia  in 
the  production  of  this  valuable  product.  ...  A  most  beautiful 
quality  of  marble  is  found  at  various  points  in  this  county;  one 
quarry  of  which  was  worked  to  a  considerable  extent  before  the  war. 
Much  capital  might  be  profitably  invested  and  many  laborers  use- 
fully employed  in  the  manufacture  and  preparation  for  market  of  the 
two  articles  named— salt  and  marble — as  well  as  iron,  the  ore  of 
which  is  present  in  the  mountains.'  Our  Marion  correspondent  says, 
'  the  quantity  of  bituminous  and  semi-bituminous  coal  and  iron  ore  in 
this  county  is  unlimited,  with  but  little  development  of  the  former 
and  none  of  the  latter,  though  the  inducements  are  great,  produce 
being  abundant  and  transportation  good  and  improving.'  "* 

*  Agricultural  Report. 


TENNESSEE.  781 


CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  usually  mild.  Except  in  the  eastern  part  the  winters 
are  short  and  pleasant,  and  snow  does  not  often  fall.  The  summers 
are  cool  and  delightful,  and  the  State  is  generally  healthful.  In  the 
mountains  the  winters,  though  short,  are  severe. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

In  the  mountains  of  East  Tennessee,  the  land  is  poor  and  difficult 
of  cultivation.  The  valleys,  however,  are  fertile,  and  amply  repay 
the  labor  expended  upon  them.  The  soil  of  Middle  Tennessee  is 
generally  good,  whilst  that  of  Western  Tennessee  consists  of  a  rich 
black  mould. 

The  staple  products  are  Indian  corn,  tobacco,  and  cotton.  The 
agriculture  of  Tennessee  was  almost  destroyed  by  the  war,  the  State 
being,  like  Virginia,  a  vast  battle-field,  but  the  people  are  slowly 
recovering  from  their  losses,  and  are  bringing  their  crops  up  to  some- 
thing like  the  old  average. 

In  1869,  the  State  contained  6,795,337  acres  of  improved  land. 
The  principal  returns  for  the  same  year  were: 

Bushels  of  wheat, 6,750,000 

"           rye, 226,000 

"           peas  and  beans, 547,803 

"           oats, 3,500,000 

"           Indian  corn, 47,500,000 

"           Irish  potatoes, 1,000,000 

Tons  of  hay, 158,000 

Pounds  of  butter,    .    .    ,     .    , 10,017,787 

Number  of  horses, 300,975 

"           asses  and  mules, 131,780 

"           milch  cows, 260,190 

sheep, 960,312 

swine, 2,800,312 

young  cattle, 709,360 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $65,211,425 

In  1870,  the  cotton  crop  amounted  to  about  215,000  bales,  and  the 
tobacco  crop  is  estimated  at  about  35,000,000  pounds. 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

This  State  has  scarcely  any  foreign  trade.  Its  cotton  is  exported 
from  New  Orleans,  and  the  most  of  its  other  products  are  disposed 


782  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

• 

of  in  that  city.    Memphis  has  an  important  trade  with  the  States  along 
the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers  and  with  Arkansas. 

Previous  to  the  war  manufactures  were  an  important  interest  in 
Tennessee,  and  were  becoming  more  extensive  every  year.  The  water 
power  of  the  State  is  magnificent,  and  offers  many  inducements  to 
capitalists.  In  1860  there  were  2572  establishments  in  Tennessee 
devoted  to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts,  employing  a 
capital  of  $14,426,261,  and  12,528  hands,  consuming  raw  material 
worth  $9,416,514,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of  $17,987,225. 
The  principal  products  were  stated  as  follows  for  that  year: 

Value  of  cotton  goods,    . $698,122 

"  flour  and  meal,     ..........  3,820,801 

"  pig-iron, 457,000 

"  bar  and  rolled  iron,       483,248 

"  copper, 404,000 

44  coal, 413,662 

"  sawed  and  planed  lumber,     .    .    .    .    .  1,975,481 

44  leather, 1,118,850 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

There  were,  in  1872,  in  the  State  of  Tennessee,  1520  miles  of  com- 
pleted railroads,  constructed  at  a  cost  of  over  $40,000,000.  Nashville, 
Memphis,  and  Chattanooga  are  the  principal  railroad  centres  of  the 
State,  and  are  connected  with  each  other  and  with  all  parts  of  the 
country.  Western  and  Middle  Tennessee  are  covered  with  a  network 
of  roads  extending  into  Kentucky  on  the  North,  and  Mississippi  and 
Alabama  on  the  south,  and  the  great  route  from  Virginia  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi crosses  the  eastern  part  of  the  State  in  a  southwest  direction, 
from  Bristol  to  Chattanooga.  These  railroads  were  almost  entirely 
destroyed  during  the  war. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  there  were  in  Tennessee  61  colleges,  with  5785  students; 
801  academies  and  other  schools,  with  33,176  pupils;  and  1932  pub- 
lic schools,  with  82,970  pupils.  Schools  were  organized  in  this  State 
as  early  as  1780,  in  East  Tennessee,  and  by  the  year  1795  there  were 
3  colleges  in  the  State. 

The  new  Constitution  makes  a  liberal  provision  for  the  support  of 
free  schools.  A  permanent  school  fund  is  established,  and  taxes  are 
levied  for  the  maintenance  of  the  schools.  The  educational  system  is 
placed  in  charge  of  a  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction,  and  is 
similar  to  that  of  West  Virginia. 


TENNESSEE.  783 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Nashville.  It  is  provided  with 
fine  commodious  buildings,  and  is  conducted  on  the  silent  system. 

The  Tennessee  Hospital  for  the  Insane  and  the  Tennessee  Blind 
School  are  located  at  Nashville.  They  were  damaged  greatly,  and 
met  with  many  losses  during  the  war,  but  have  been  reopened  with 
success  since  the  return  of  peace.  Measures  are  on  foot  for  the  erec- 
tion of  a  hospital  for  the  colored  insane. 

The  Tennessee  Deaf  and  Dumb  School  is  at  Knoxville.  It  was 
established  in  1845.  It  was  broken  up  during  the  war,  and  the  build- 
ing occupied  by  the  two  armies,  in  turn,  as  a  hospital,  and  greatly 
damaged.  It  was  reopened  in  1866,  and  is  now  prosperous. 

FINANCES. 

In  1870  the  State  debt  amounted  to  $29,718,961,  of  which  $24,- 
900,417  consisted  of  bonds  loaned  to  railroads.  The  expenditures  of 
the  treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  September  30,  1867,  were 
$2,259,522,  and  the  receipts  $2,336,445. 

In  1868  there  were  12  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $2,025,300, 
doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT, 

By  the  Constitution  of  this  State  every  male  citizen  21  years  old, 
residing  in  the  State  1  year  and  in  the  county  6  months,  who  has  paid 
the  poll  tax  specified  by  the  Constitution,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the 
elections. 

The  government  of  the  State  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Secretary  of 
State,  Treasurer,  Comptroller,  Attorney-General,  and  a  General  As- 
sembly, consisting  of  a  Senate  and  House  of  Delegates.  The  Gover- 
nor and  members  of  the  Legislature  are  elected  by  the  people  for  two 
years.  The  State  officers,  with  the  exception  of  the  Attorney-General, 
are  elected  for  four  years  by  the  Legislature.  The  Attorney-General 
is  appointed  by  the  judges  of  the  Supreme  Court. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  Courts  of  Chan- 
cery, Circuit  Courts,  County  Courts,  and  Justices'  Courts.  The  Su- 
preme Court  consists  of  5  judges,  no  two  of  which  must  reside  in  the 
same  part  of  the  State. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  at  Nashville. 

For  purposes  of  government  the  State  is  divided  into  84  counties. 


784  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

HISTORY. 

Tennessee  originally  formed  a  part  of  the  province  of  North  Caro- 
lina* It  was,  at  the  time  of  its  settlement,  a  vast  wilderness,  whhh 
was  claimed  as  a  hunting  ground  by  the  Chickasaws,  Choctaws,  Shaw- 
nees,  and  the  Six  Nations.  The  Cherokees  dwelt  in  the  extreme  south- 
east part,  but  no  other  tribe  made  the  Territory  a  place  of  habitation. 

In  1756  Andrew  Lewis  was  sent  into  this  region  for  the  purpose  of 
settling  it,  by  the  Earl  of  Loudon,  then  the  Governor  of  Virginia, 
and  commander  of  the  Royal  forces  in  America.  He  built  a  post, 
which  he  called  Fort  Loudon,  on  the  Wautauga  or  Little  Tennessee, 
about  30  miles  southwest  of  Knoxville.  This  settlement  is  now  a 
thriving  village.  The  fort  was  given  a  strong  garrison  of  British 
troops,  and,  influenced  by  the  sense  of  the  protection  which  this  force 
imparted,  the  region  round  about  was  soon  partially  settled  by  emi- 
grants, and  in  the  spring  of  1758  the  garrison  of  the  fort  was  increased 
to  200  men. 

In  1758,  Colonel  Bird  built  a  post  in  what  is  now  Sullivan  county. 
This  was  for  some  time  believed  to  be  in  Virginia,  and  was  called 
Long  Island  Fort. 

In  1768,  many  families  came  out  to  the  new  region,  and  settled 
along  the  Holston  and  Wautauga  rivers.  In  1769,  or  1770,  a  party 
of  10  hunters  descended  the  Cumberland  River  to  the  Ohio,  in  boats 
which  they  had  built,  stopping  for  a  while  at  the  site  of  the  present 
city  of  Nashville.  They  descended  the  Ohio  to  the  Mississippi,  and 
passed  down  that  river  to  Natchez,  which  was  then  a  Spanish  settle- 
ment. They  were  kindly  treated  by  the  Spaniards,  and  some  of  them 
remained  there,  but  others  returned  to  the  settlements  along  the 
Wautauga. 

In  1760,  Fort  Loudon  was  besieged  by  the  Cherokees,  and  closely 
invested  for  a  month.  The  garrison,  200  in  number,  consumed  their 
horses  and  dogs,  and  finally,  being  on  the  point  of  starvation,  surren- 
dered upon  condition  that  they  should  be  allowed  to  return  to  Vir- 
ginia. They  were  suffered  to  depart  and  to  march  15  miles  from  the 
fort  without  being  molested,  but  when  they  had  accomplished  that 
distance,  were  treacherously  attacked  and  nearly  all  massacred  on  the 
spot.  This  outrage  was  avenged  the  next  year  by  Colonel  Grant, 
who,  with  a  force  of  2600  regular  and  provincial  troops  and  friendly 
Indians,  invaded  the  Cherokee  country  and  laid  waste  their  fields  and 
villages.  These  severe  measures  compelled  the  savages  to  sue  for  peace. 


TENNESSEE.  785 

By  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  the  Tennessee  country  was  quite 
thickly  settled,  and  the  population  was  increasing  at  an  encouraging 
rate.  In  1776,  the  Cherokees,  incited  by  the  British,  waged  a  formid- 
able war  upon  the  settlers,  but  were  defeated  by  the  forces  of  Virginia 
and  North  Carolina.  The  Tennessee  settlements,  at  this  time  known 
as  the  "District  of  Washington,"  were  represented  in  the  Convention 
which  framed  the  Constitution  of  North  Carolina,  and,  in  1780,  the 
Tennessee  militia,  under  Colonel  Levier,  bore  a  conspicuous  part  in 
the  bloody  battle  of  King's  Mountain, 

After  the  war  lands  in  this  region  were  offered  the  North  Carolina 
troops  in  payment  of  the  bounties  due  them.  Many  of  them  accepted 
the  offer  and  settled  on  the  lands.  Others  sold  their  warrants  to  actual 
settlers.  Nashville  had  been  settled  by  a  party  of  two  or  three  hun- 
dred, under  Colonel  Robertson,  as  early  as  1780,  and  the  rich  lands 
of  Davidson  county,  lying  around  it,  now  attracted  the  greater  part 
of  the  holders  of  the  military  warrants. 

In  1785,  the  inhabitants  of  the  present  counties  of  Sullivan,  Wash- 
ington, and  Greene,  attempted  to  set  up  an  independent  State  Govern- 
ment, as  they  declared,  and  with  truth,  that  the  capital  of  North 
Carolina  was  too  far  away  to  benefit  them.  They  called  their  new 
State  Franklin.  This  course  produced  considerable  confusion,  which 
was  not  quieted  until  1790,  when  North  Carolina  ceded  the  territory 
to  the  United  States.  Congress  established  a  Territorial  Government, 
and  the  region  was  called  "  The  Territory  of  the  United  States  south- 
west of  the  Ohio  River." 

In  1794,  the  Territory  of  Tennessee  was  organized,  and  the  Legis- 
lature met  at  Knoxville.  The  next  year  it  was  found  that  it  con- 
tained a  population  of  77,262,  of  which  10,613  were  negro  slaves. 
Efforts  were  now  made  to  secure  its  erection  into  a  State,  and  on  the 
1st  of  June,  1796,  Tennessee  was  admitted  into  the  Union. 

The  State  took  an  active  part  in  the  second  war  with  England,  and 
contributed  to  the  cause  Andrew  Jackson,  who  won  the  victory  of 
New  Orleans,  and  many  of  the  hardy  backwoodsmen  who  fought 
under  him  that  day. 

After  the  return  of  peace,  Tennessee  entered  upon  a  career  of  pros- 
perity, which  was  checked  by  the  Rebellion.  Being  a  slaveholding 
State,  it  was  expected  that  the  people  would  take  sides  with  the  ex- 
treme pro-slavery  party.  When  the  Gulf  States  seceded  from  tho 
Union  in  the  winter  of  1860-61,  Tennessee  was  urged  to  join  them. 
The  Legislature  submitted  to  the  people  the  call  for  a  Convention,  for 
50 


786 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


XASHVILLE. 


the  purpose  of  seceding,  and  this  call  was  defeated  by  a  popular 
majority  of  64,114.  After  the  fall  of  Fort  Sumter,  however,  the 
Governor  convened  the  Legislature  in  extra-session,  and  on  the  9th 
of  May,  1861,  that  body  adopted  an  Ordinance  of  Secession,  and  sent 
representatives  and  senators  to  the  Confederate  Congress.  Western 
and  Middle  Tennessee  were  very  clearly  in  sympathy  with  this  action 
of  the  Legislature,  but  East  Tennessee  was  loyal  to  the  Union. 

The  State  was  at  once  occupied  by  the  Confederates,  and  in  the 
spring  of  1862,  the  western  and  northern  portions  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Union  forces.  Volunteers  enlisted  on  each  side,  and  the  State 
became  the  western  battle-field  of  both  armies.  The  severe  battles  of 
Fort  Donnelson,  Shiloh  and  Pittsburg  Landing,  Murfreesboro,  Chat- 
tanooga, Knoxville,  and  Nashville,  were  fought  within  the  limits  of 
the  State. 

After  the  close  of  the  war,  a  Provisional  Governor  was  appointed, 
and  the  State  was  restored  to  its  former  position  in  the  Union  on  the 
24th  of  July,  1866. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  the  State 
are,  Memphis,  Knoxville,  Chattanooga,  a.nd  Murfreesboro. 


TENNESSEE.  m 

NASHVILLE, 

The  capital  and  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Davidson 
county,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Cumberland  River,  at  the  head  of 
steamboat  navigation,  about  200  miles  from  the  mouth  of  that  stream, 
230  miles  east-northeast  of  Memphis,  and  684  miles  southwest  of 
Washington.  Latitude  36°  9'  N ;  longitude  86°  49'  W. 

The  city  is  delightfully  situated  in  a  beautiful,  healthy,  and  fertile 
country,  and  has  long  been  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the 
southwest.  It  is  built  on  an  elevated  bluff  of  limestone,  and  com- 
mands fine  views  of  the  river  and  vicinity.  It  is  regularly  laid  off, 
and  contains  many  handsome  edifices.  Many  of  the  residences  are 
palatial  in  their  character. 

The  public  buildings  are  handsome.  The  Capitol  is  one  of  the 
finest  edifices  on  the  continent.  It  stands  on  an  eminence  197  feet 
above  the  river,  and  is  built  of  fine  fossilated  limestone,  much  like 
marble,  which  was  quarried  on  the  spot.  Many  of  the  blocks  weigh 
10  tons  each.  Its  dimensions  are  270  by  140  feet.  "Its  architecture 
is  Grecian,  consisting  of  a  Doric  basement,  and  supporting  on  its  four 
fronts,  Ionic  porticoes,  modelled  after  those  of  the  Erechtheum  at 
Athens."  In  the  centre  of  the  building  is  a  tower  80  feet  high.  The 
halls  of  the  Legislature  are  among  the  handsomest  in  the  country, 
being  surpassed  only  by  those  of  the  two  Houses  of  Congress.  The 
cost  of  the  capitol  was  $1,000,000  in  gold.  The  Lunatic  Asylum,  and 
the  State  Penitentiary  are  imposing  buildings.  The  latter  contains 
200  cells.  The  City  Hall  is  also  a  handsome  building. 

The  schools  of  the  city  are  noted  for  their  excellence.  It  has 
several  public  schools  in  operation,  and  one  for  colored  children.  The 
University  of  Nashville,  founded  in  1806,  is  an  institution  of  high 
character.  Its  Medical  Department  is  regarded  as  an  excellent 
school.  The  female  schools  are  considered  the  best  in  the  State.  The 
State  Library  contains  over  12,000  volumes. 

The  Cumberland  River  is  crossed  here  by  a  fine  bridge.  The 
river  is  navigable  for  steamers  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year, 
and  Nashville  is  the  seat  of  a  heavy  river  trade.  It  has  railway  com- 
munication with  all  parts  of  the  State  and  country.  It  contains  about 
14  churches,  and  about  8  newspaper  and  4  magazine  offices.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Cumberland  River, 
and  possesses  a  steam  fire-engine  department,  and  an  efficient  police 
force.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  popu- 
lation was  25,865. 


788 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


MEMPHIS. 


Nashville  has  long  been  noted  for  its  enterprising  spirit,  literary  taste, 
and  polished  society.  It  is  in  everything  but  geographical  position 
a  Southern  rather  than  a  Western  city.  It  was  founded  in  1779,  by 
a  party  of  emigrants  from  North  Carolina,  and  established  as  a  town 
by  the  Assembly  of  that  State,  in  1784.  It  was  named  in  honor  of 
-Colonel  Francis  Nash,  who  fell  at  the  head  of  his  regiment  at  Ger- 
mantown.  It  suffered  very  greatly  during  the  civil  war.  It  was 
occupied  by  the  United  States  array  in  February,  1862,  and  held  until 
the  close  of  the  war.  On  the  16th.  of  December,  1864,  General 
Thomas,  in  command  of  the  United  States  forces,  inflicted  a,  bloody 
defeat  upon  the  Confederate  army,  under  General  Hood,  in  the 
vicinity. 

MEMPHIS, 

The  largest  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Shelby  county,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Wolf  River, 
420  miles  below  St.  Louis,  956  miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  230 
miles  west-southwest  of  Nashville.  It  stands  on  the  4th  Chickasaw 
Bluff,  and  possesses  the  only  convenient  location  for  a  commercial 
city  between  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  Vicksburg,  Mississippi,  a  dis- 
tance of  650  miles.  Possessing  this,  it  has  become  the  most  populous 
and  important  place  on  the  river,  between  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans. 


TENNESSEE.  789 

The  bluff,  on  which  the  city  is  built,  is  elevated  60  feet  above  the 
river,  and  is  about  3  miles  in  length.  At  its  base  a  bed  of  sandstone 
projects  into  the  river,  and  forms  the  levee  or  lauding.  The  city  lies 
entirely  on  the  bluff  above,  and  presents  a  fine  appearance  when 
viewed  from  the  river.  An  esplanade,  several  hundred  feet  in  width, 
occupies  the  front  of  the  plateau,  and  this  is  lined  with  handsome 
buildings,  which  face  the  river.  The  genera1!  appearance  of  the  city 
is  attractive,  and  many  of  the  business  edifices  and  private  residences 
would  do  credit  to  any  city  in  the  land. 

Memphis  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  a  street  railway  connects  its 
various  points.  It  contains  about  24  good  public  schools,  several 
private  schools,  a  Mercantile  Library,  20  churches,  and  10  newspaper 
offices.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  popu- 
lation was  40,226. 

Memphis  is  the  most  important  city  on  the  lower  Mississippi,  be- 
sides New  Orleans.  It  has  grown  with  surprising  rapidity,  notwith- 
standing -the  civil  war,  which  injured  it  severely.  It  is  connected 
with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railway,  and  controls  a  large  share  of 
the  enormous  trade  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  the  principal  point  for 
shipping  the  rich  produce  of  Tennessee,  Northern  Mississippi,  and 
Arkansas.  Corn,  cotton>  wheat,  and  tobacco  are  exported  in  large 
quantities. 

In  1736,  the  French  selected  the  bluff,  on  which  Memphis  stands, 
as  a  suitable  position  for  the  establishment  of  a  fort,  but  they  neglected 
to  occupy  it.  In  1783,  the  Spanish  Government  directed  W.  H. 
Gayoso,  the  Acting-Governor  of  Louisiana,  to  occupy  and  fortify  the 
bluff,  which  was  done.  They  held  the  place  until  the  purchase  of 
Louisiana  by  the  United  States.  In  the  same  year,  Fort  Pickering 
was  established  here  by  the  United  States  forces.  The  settlement 
of  the  town  was  begun  in  1820.  During  the  first  part  of  the  civil 
war  it  was  held  by  the  Confederates.  It  was  captured  by  the  United 
States  forces  in  June,  1862,  and  held  by  them  until  the  close  of  the 
war. 

KNOXYILLE, 

The  third  city  of  the  State,  and  the  principal  place  in  East  Tennessee, 
is  beautifully  situated,  in  Knox  county,  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Holston  River,  4  miles  below  its  junction  with  the  French  Broad 
River,  185  miles  east  of  Nashville.  It  is  located  on  high  ground, 
from  which  are  obtained  magnificent  views  of  the  river  and  distant 


7SO  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Blue  MOULI tains  of  Chilhowee.  The  town  is  well  built,  and  is  said 
to  be  an  agreeable  place  of  residence.  It  contains  the  University  of 
East  Tennessee,  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  5  churches, 
several  public  and  private  schools,  and  2  newspaper  offices.-  It  is 
extensively  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  window-glass.  The  city 
is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railway,  and  the  river  is 
navigable  for  steamers  at*all  seasons.  Fine  marble  quarries,  iron  ore, 
and  bituminous  coal  abound  in  the  surrounding  country.  In  1870, 
the  population  was  8882. 

Knoxville  was  laid  out  in  1794,  in  which  year  it  was  made  the 
capital  of  the  State,  which  it  continued  to  be  until  1817.  During 
the  civil  war,  it  was  the  centre  of  the  opposition  to  the  Confederacy, 
which  was  maintained  throughout  the  whole  struggle  by  the  East 
Tennesseans.  It  was  taken  by  the  United  States  forces  in  the  fall  of 
1862.  The  next  year  it  was  besieged  by  the  Confederates,  under 
General  Longstreet,  and  was  reduced  to  severe  straits.  Several 
desperate  battles  occurred  in  the  vicinity.  It  was  relieved  finally  by 
the  United  States  army,  under  General  Burnside. 

MISCELLANY. 

THE    BOYHOOD    OF   ANDREW  JACKSON. 

His  parents  were  Scotch-Irish  emigrants  from  Carrickfergus,  of  the  humblest 
condition  in  life,  and  to  add  to  the  struggles  of  the  family  with  adversity,  his 
father  died  just  after  the  birth  of  his  son.  His  mother  was  obliged  to  find  a 
home,  as  housekeeper  and  poor  relation,  in  the  family  of  a  brother-in-law,  and 
here  young<Andrew  passed  the  first  ten  or  twelve  years  of  his  life.  He  soon  ac- 
quired the  reputation  of  being  the  most  mischievous  boy  in  the  neighborhood, 
always  full  of  pranks  and  getting  into  trouble.  His  school-days  were  not  of  the 
most  promising  character ;  nor,  judging  from  Mr.  Parton's  lively  description, 
was  his  youthful  brain  in  danger  of  being  turned  by  any  superfluity  of  book- 
learning. 

In  due  time  the  boy  was  sent  to  an  "  old-field  school,"  an  institution  not  much 
unlike  the  road-side  schools  in  Ireland  of  which  we  read.  The  Northern  reader 
is,  perhaps,  not  aware  that  an  "  old-field  "  is  not  a  field  at  all,  but  a  pine  forest. 
When  crop  after  crop  of  cotton,  without  rotation,  has  exhausted  the  soil,  the 
fences  are  taken  away,  the  land  lies  waste,  the  young  pines  at  once  spring  up, 
and  soon  cover  the  whole  field  with  a  thick  growth  of  wood.  In  one  of  these  old 
fields,  the  rudest  possible  shanty  of  a  log  house  is  erected,  with  a  fire-place  that 
extends  from  side  to  side,  and  occupies  a  third  of  the  interior.  In  winter,  the  in- 
terstices of  the  log  walls  are  filled  up  with  clay;  which  the  restless  fingers  of  the 
boys  make  haste  to  remove  in  time  to  admit  the  first  warm  airs  of  spring.  An 
itinerant  schoolmaster  presents  himself  in  a  neighborhood  ;  the  responsible 
farmers  pledge  him  a  certain  number  of  pupils,  and  an  old-field  school  is  estab- 
lished for  the  season.  Such  schools,  called  by  the  same  name,  exist  to  this  day 


TENNESSEE.  m 

In  the  Carolinas,  differing  little  from  those  which  Andrew  Jackson  attended  in 
his  childhood.  Reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  were  all  the  branches  taught  in 
the  early  day.  Among  a  crowd  of  urchins  seated  on  the  slab  benches  of  a  school 
like  this,  fancy  a  tall,  slender  boy,  with  bright  blue  eyes,  a  freckled  face,  an. 
abundance  of  long,  sandy  hair,  and  clad  in  coarse,  copperas-colored  cloth,  with 
bare  feet  dangling  and  kicking,  and  you  have  in  your  mind's  eye  a  picture  of 
Andy  as  he  appeared  in  his  old-field  school  days  in  the  Waxhaw  settlement. 

His  mother  seems  to  have  had  more  ambitious  views  for  her  son,  and  hoped 
that  by  being  enabled  to  obtain  for  him  a  liberal  education,  she  would  have  the 
pleasure  to  see  him  "wag  his  pow  in  a  pulpit"  as  a  clergyman  of  the  Presbyte- 
rian Church.  He  was  not  destined,  however,  to  "beat  the  drum  ecclesiastic," 
though  if  his  good  mother's  wishes  could  have  been  realized,  he  would  doubtless 
have  proved  a  valiant  soldier  of  the  "church  militant,"  and  dealt  thick  and  heavy 
blows  on  the  sinner  and  heretic  with  as  much  unction  as  he  subsequently  discom- 
fited the  invaders  of  his  country  at  New  Orleans.  He  was  a  fighter  from  his 
earliest  boyhood.  Not  a  drop  of  tame  blood  ran  in  his  veins. 

Andy  was  a  wild,  frolicsome,  wilful,  mischievous,  daring,  reckless  boy ;  gene- 
rous to  a  friend,  but  never  content  to  submit  to  a  stronger  enemy.  He  was  pas- 
sionately fond  of  those  sports  which  are  mimic  battles — above  all,  wrestling. 
Being  a  slender  boy,  more  active  than  strong,  he  was  often  thrown. 

"I  could  throw  him  three  times  out  of  four,"  an  old  schoolmate  used  to  say, 
44  but  he  would  never  stay  throwed.  He  was  dead  game,  even  then,  and  never 
would  give  up." 

He  was  exceedingly  fond  of  running  foot  races,  of  leaping  the  bar,  and  jumping, 
and  in  such  sports  he  was  excelled  by  no  one  of  his  years.  To  younger  boys, 
who  never  questioned  his  mastery,  he  was  a  generous  protector;  there  was 
nothing  he  would  not  do  to  defend  them.  His  equals  and  superiors  found  him 
self-willed,  somewhat  overbearing,  easily  offended,  very  irascible,  and,  upon  the 
whole,  "  difficult  to  get  along  with."  One  of  them  said,  many  years  after,  in  the 
heat  of  controversy,  that  of  all  the  boys  he  had  ever  known,  Andrew  Jackson 
was  the  only  bully  who  was  not  also  a  coward. 

But  the  boy,  it  appears,  had  a  special  cause  of  irritation  in  a  disgraceful  disease, 
name  unknown,  which  induces  a  habit  of — not  to  put  too  fine  a  point  on  it — 
"  slobbering."  Woe  to  any  boy  who  presumed  to  jest  at  this  misfortune  !  Andy 
was  upon  him  incontinently,  and  there  was  either  a  fight  or  a  drubbing.  There 
is  a  story,  too,  of  some  boys  secretly  loading  a  gun  to  the  muzzle,  and  giving  it 
to  young  Jackson  to  fire  off,  that  the}'  might  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  it 
"kick"  him  over.  They  had  that  pleasure.  Springing  up  from  the  ground,  the 

boy,  in  a  frenzy  of  passion,  exclaimed :  "  By ,  if  one  of  you  laughs,  I'll  kill 

him ! " 

He  soon  had  an  opportunity  for  pursuing  higher  game.  He  was  9  years  old 
when  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed.  By  the  time  the  war  ap- 
proached the  obscure  settlement  in  the  region  of  the  Catawba,  where  he  was 
born,  he  was  a  little  more  than  13.  A  change  now  came  over  his  rustic  life.  The 
schoolhouse  was  closed,  the  peaceful  labors  of  the  people  interrupted.  His  elder 
brother  Hugh  had  already  mounted  his  horse  and  ridden  southward  to  meet  the 
bloody  strife.  It  was  on  the  29th  of  May,  1780,  that  Tarleton,  with  300  horse- 
men, surprised  a  detachment  of  militia  in  the  Waxhaw  settlement,  and  killed  113 
of  them,  and  wounded  150.  The  wounded,  abandoned  to  the  care  of  the  settlers, 
were  quartered  in  the  houses  of  the  vicinity,  the  old  log  Waxhaw  meeting-house 


792  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

itself  being  converted  into  a  hospital  for  the  most  desperate  cases.  Mrs.  Jack- 
son was  one  of  the  kind  women  who  ministered  to  the  wounded  soldiers  in  the 
church,  and  under  that  roof  her  boys  first  saw  what  war  was.  The  men  were 
dreadfully  mangled.  Some  had  received  as  many  as  thirteen  wounds,  and  none 
less  than  three.  For  many  days  Andrew  and  his  brother  assisted  their  mother 
in  waiting  upon  the  sick  men  ;  Andrew,  more  in  rage  than  pity,  though  pitiful 
by  nature,  burning  to  avenge  their  wounds  and  his  brother's  death. 

Tarleton's  massacre  at  the  Waxhaw  settlement  kindled  the  flames  of  war  in  all 
that  region  of  the  Carolinas.  Andrew,  with  his  brother  Robert,  was  present  at 
Sumter's  attack  on  the  British  post  at  Hanging  Rock,  where  he  might  have  re- 
ceived his  first  lesson  in  the  art  of  war.  Soon  after  he  passed  his  14th  birthday, 
there  ensued  a  fierce,  intestine  warfare  in  the  vicinity  of  his  home — a  war  of 
Whig  and  Tory,  neighbor  against  neighbor,  brother  against  brother,  and  even 
father  against  son.  Among  other  instances  of  the  madness  that  prevailed,  a  case 
is  related  of  a  Whig,  who,  having  found  a  friend  murdered  and  mutilated,  devo- 
ted himself  to  the  slaying  of  Tories.  He  hunted  and  lay  in  wait  for  them,  and 
before  the  war  ended  had  killed  20,  and  then,  recovering  from  that  insanity,  lived 
the  rest  of  his  days  a  conscience-stricken  wretch.  Andrew  and  his  brother  soon 
began  to  take  a  personal  share  in  the  eventful  conflict.  Without  enlisting  in  any 
regular  corps,  they  plunged  into  the  fight  on  their  own  hook,  joining  small  par- 
ties that  went  out  on  single  enterprises  of  retaliation,  mounted  on  their  own 
horses,  and  carrying  their  own  weapons.  Mr.  Parton  gives  a  description  of  one 
of  his  adventures  in  this  line,  which  illustrates  botli  the  time  and  the  boy : 

"In  that  fierce,  Scotch-Indian  warfare,  the  absence  of  a  father  from  home  was 
often  a  better  protection  to  his  family  than  his  presence,  because  his  presence  in- 
vited an  attack.  The  main  object  of  both  parties  was  to  kill  the  fighting  men, 
and  to  avenge  the  slaying  of  partisans.  The  house  of  the  quiet  hero  Hicks,  for 
example,  was  safe  until  it  was  noised  about  among  the  Tories  that  Hicks  was  at 
home.  And  thus  it  came  to  pass,  that  when  a  Whig  soldier  of  note  desired  to 
spend  a  night  with  his  family,  his  neighbors  were  accustomed  to  turn  out  and 
serve  as  a  guard  to  his  house  while  he  slept.  Behold  Robert  and  Andrew  Jack- 
son, with  6  others,  thus  employed  one  night  in  the  spring  of  1781,  at  the  domicil 
of  a  neighbor,  Captain  Sands.  The  guard  on  this  occasion  was  more  a  friendly 
tribute  to  an  active  partisan  than  a  service  considered  necessary  to  his  safety. 
In  short,  the  night  was  not  far  advanced  before  the  whole  party  were  snugly 
housed  and  stretched  upon  the  floor,  all  sound  asleep  except  one,  a  British  de- 
serter, who  was  restless,  and  dozed  at  intervals. 

44  Danger  was  near.  A  band  of  Tories,  bent  on  taking  the  life  of  Captain 
Sands,  approached  the  house  in  two  divisions,  one  party  moving  toward  the  front 
door,  the  other  toward  the  back.  The  wakeful  soldier,  hearing  a  suspicious 
noise,  rose,  went  out  of  doors  to  learn  its  cause,  and  saw  the  foe  stealthily  near- 
ing  the  house.  He  ran  in  in  terror,  and  seizing  Andrew  Jackson,  who  lay  next 
the  door,  by  the  hair,  exclaimed  :  4  The  Tories  are  upon  us  ! ' 

"Andrew  sprang  up  and  ran  out.  Seeing  a  body  of  men  in  the  distance,  he 
placed  the  end  of  his  gun  in  the  Jow  fork  of  a  tree  near  the  door  and  hailed  them. 
No  reply.  He  hailed  them  a  second  time.  No  reply.  They  quickened  their 
pace,  and  had  come  within  a  few  rods  of  the  door.  By  this  time,  too,  the  guard 
in  the  house  had  been  roused,  and  were  gathered  in  a  group  behind  the  boy. 
Andrew  discharged  his  musket,  upon  which  the  Tories  fired  a  volley,  which 
killed  the  hapless  deserter  who  had  given  the  alarm.  The  other  party  of  Tories, 


TENNESSEE.  793 

who  were  approaching  the  house  from  the  other  side,  hearing  this  discharge,  and 
the  rush  of  bullets  above  their  heads,  supposed  that  the  firing  proceeded  from  a 
party  that  had  issued  from  the  house.  They  now  tired  a  volley,  which  sent  a 
shower  of  balls  whistling  about  the  heads  of  their  friends  on  the  other  side.  Both 
parties  hesitated,  and  then  halted.  Andrew  having  thus,  by  his  single  discharge, 
puzzled  and  stopped  the  enemy,  retired  to  the  house,  where  he  and  his  comrades 
kept  up  a  brisk  fire  from  the  windows.  One  of  the  guard  fell  mortally  wounded 
by  his  side,  and  another  received  a  wound  less  severe.  In  the  midst  of  this  sin- 
gular contest,  a  bugle  was  heard,  some  distance  off,  sounding  the  cavalry  charge, 
whereupon  the  Tories,  concluding  that  they  had  come  upon  an  ambush  of  Whigs, 
and  were  about  to  be  assailed  by  horse  and  foot,  fled  to  where  they  had  left  their 
horses,  mounted,  dashed  pell-mell  into  the  woods,  and  were  seen  no  more.  It 
appeared  afterward  that  the  bugle  charge  was  sounded  by  a  neighbor,  who,  judg- 
ing from  the  noise  of  musketry  that  Captain  Sands  was  attacked,  and  having  not 
a  man  with  him  in  his  house,  gave  the  blast  upon  the  trumpet,  thinking  that  even 
a  trick  so  stale,  aided  by  the  darkness  of  the  night,  might  have  some  effect  in 
alarming  the  assailants." 

After  peace  was  restored  to  his  neighborhood,  young  Jackson  embraced  every 
opportunity  to  engage  in  a  "free  fight,"  beside  sharing  largely  in  the  fun  and 
frolic,  which  were  almost  as  congenial  to  his  disposition  as  the  drubbing  of  an 
adversary.  Several  Charleston  families  of  wealth  and  distinction  were  waiting 
in  the  settlement  for  the  evacuation  of  their  city.  With  the  young  men  whose 
acquaintance  he  thus  made,  Andrew  led  a  life  in  the  summer  and  autumn  of  1782 
that  was  more  merry  than  wise.  He  now  began  to  betray  that  taste  for  horse- 
flesh which  became  such  a  decided  passion  in  after  life.  He  ran  races  and  rode 
races,  gambled  a  little,  drank  a  little,  indulged  in  a  cock-fight  occasionally,  and 
presented  a  glorious  specimen  of  the  Young  America  at  that  day.  He  seems  to 
have  had  but  a  faint  love  for  his  Carolina  relations,  and  was  probably  regarded 
as  the  scapegrace  of  the  family. 

It  is  credibly  related  that  his  first  attempt  at  earning  a  living  for  himself  was 
in  the  capacity  of  a  country  schoolmaster ;  but,  after  trying  his  hand  in  this  un- 
congenial employment  for  a  short  time,  he  resolved  to  study  law.  Gathering 
together  his  scanty  earnings,  he  mounts  his  horse,  seis  his  face  to  the  northward 
in  quest  of  a  master  with  whom  to  pursue  his  law  studies,  and  finally  enters  an 
office  in  Salisbury,  N.  C.,  at  the  age  of  18.  Of  his  residence  in  that  pleasant  old 
town,  Mr.  Parton  has  succeeded  in  bagging  some  characteristic  if  not  altogether 
edifying  reminiscences : 

"  Salisbury  teems  with  traditions  respecting  the  residence  there  of  Andrew 
Jackson  as  a  student  of  law.  Their  general  tenor  may  be  expressed  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  first  old  resident  of  the  town,  to  whom  I  applied  for  information : 
'Andrew  Jackson  was  the  most  roaring,  rollicking,  game-cocking,  horse-racing, 
card-playing,  mischievous  fellow  that  ever  lived  irT  Salisbury. '  Add  to  this  such 
expressions  as  these  :  *  He  did  not  trouble  the  law  books  much,'  *  He  was  more  in 
the  stable  than  in  the  office,'  « He  was  the  head  of  all  the  rowdies  hereabouts.' 
That  is  the  substance  of  what  the  Salisbury  of  1859  has  to  say  of  the  Andrew 
Jackson  of  1785. 

"  Nothing  is  more  likely  than  that  he  was  a  roaring,  rollicking  fellow,  over- 
flowing with  life  and  spirits,  and  rejoicing  to  engage  in  all  the  fun  that  was 
going ;  but  I  do  not  believe  that  he  neglected  his  duties  at  the  office  to  the  extent 
to  which  Salisbury  says  he  did.  There  are  good  reasons  for  doubting  it.  At  no 


794  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

part  of  Jackson's  career,  when  we  can  get  a  look  at  him  through  a  pair  of  trust- 
worthy eyes,  do  we  find  him  trifling  with  life.  We  find  him  often  wrong,  but 
always  earnest.  He  never  so  much  as  raised  a  field  of  cotton  which  he  did  not 
have  done  in  the  best  manner  known  to  him.  It  was  not  in  the  nature  of  this 
young  man  to  take  a  great  deal  of  trouble  to  get  a  chance  to  study  law,  and  then 
entirely  to  throw  away  that  chance.  Of  course  he  never  became,  in  any  proper 
sense  of  the  word,  a  lawyer,  but  that  he  was  not  diligent  and  eager  in  picking  up 
the  legal  knowledge  necessary  for  practice  at  that  day,  will  become  less  credible 
to  the  reader  the  more  he  knows  of  him.  Once,  in  the  White  House,  45  years 
after  this  period,  when  some  one  from  Salisbury  reminded  him  of  his  residence 
in  that  town,  he  said,  with  a  smile  and  a  look  of  retrospection  on  his  aged  face : 
*  Yes,  I  lived  at  old  Salisbury.  I  was  but  a  raw  lad  then,  but  I  did  my  best.''  n 


KENTUCKY. 

Area,       37,680  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 1,155,684 

(Whites,  919,517  ;  Negroes,  236,167.) 
Population  in  1870, 1,321,911 

THE  State  of  Kentucky  is  situated  between  36°  30'  and  39°  10'  N. 
latitude,  and  between  81°  50'  and  89°  26'  W.  longitude.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois,  on  the  east  by 
West  Virginia  and  Virginia,  on  the  south  by  Tennessee,  and  on  the 
west  by  Indiana,  Illinois  and  Missouri.  It  is  very  irregular  in  shape, 
the  northern  line  following  the  windings  of  the  Ohio  River.  Its  ex- 
treme length,  from  east  to  west,  is  about  300  miles,  and  its  greatest 
width  (following  a  line  drawn  south  from  Cincinnati,  Ohio)  about 
180  miles.  At  its  southwest  end  it  is  not  over  50  miles  wide. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  southeast  part  of  the  State  is  crossed  by  the  Cumberland  Moun- 
tains, which  separate  it  from  Virginia.  Some  outlying  ridges  of  this 
range,  none  of  them  more  than  2000  feet  high,  extend  into  the  south- 
east counties.  The  centre  of  the  State  is  a  fine  rolling  country,  but 
west  of  the  85th  meridian  of  longitude  the  surface  is  principally  level, 
except  along  the  Ohio  River,  which  is  bordered  by  a  range  of  hills. 
These  hills  approach  the  stream  as  near  as  half  a  mile  in  some  places, 
and  in  others  recede  from  it  to  a  distance  of  10  or  20  miles. 

The  Ohio  River  washes  the  entire  northern  and  northwestern  shore 
of  the  State,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Big  Sandy  (which  separates 
Kentucky  from  West  Virginia),  Licking,  Kentucky,  Salt,  Green, 
Cumberland  and  Tennessee  rivers.  It  borders  the  State  for  600 

795 


T96  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

miles,  and  is  navigable  for  large  steamers  the  whole  distance.  The 
Kentucky  River  rises  in  the  southeast  part  of  the  State,  the  Licking  in 
the  northeast,  the  Salt  and  the  Green  rivers  in  the  centre.  All  flow 
in  a  generally  northwest  course.  They  are  all  navigable  for  over  50 
miles,  except  the  Licking. 

MINERALS. 

"  Kentucky  is  rich  in  mineral  resources,  and  her  beds  of  coal  and 
mountains  of  iron  are  almost  inexhaustible.  Coal  is  found  in  abun- 
dance at  Greenup,  Rockcastle,  Laurel,  Pulaski,  Whitley,  Clinton,  Ed- 
monson,  Hardin,  Ohio,  Butler,  Christian,  Webster,  and  other  coun- 
ties. In  most  of  these  counties  this  coal  is  of  excellent  quality,  but 
used  only  for  home  consumption,  there  being  no  means  of  transporta- 
tion. In  Laurel  county,  the  coal  beds  are  from  3  to  5  feet  in  thick- 
ness. Iron  is  found  in  greater  or  less  quantity  in  Greenup,  Trimble, 
Rockcastle,  Pulaski,  Whitley,  Russell,  Clinton,  Edmonson,  Ohio, 
Butler,  etc,,  but,  like  the  coal  deposits,  has  been  but  feebly  developed. 
In  Greenup,  the  furnaces  are  closed  up,  ore  within  reach  of  present 
facilities  being  pretty  well  exhausted.  Iron  ore  is  found  all  through 
Russell  county.  ( About  35  years  since  a  very  superior  iron  was 
manufactured  here,  from  which  some  of  the  blacksmiths  made  good 
edged  tools  without  steel.  The  iron  was  hard  and  tough.  There  has 
been  no  development  since,  and  it  is  doubted  whether  the  ore  is  in 
sufficient  quantity  to  pay  for  working/  This  ore  also  abounds  in 
Clinton  county,  and  David  Dale  Owen,  in  his  Geological  Survey 
of  Kentucky,  in  speaking  of  this  and  counties  east  of  it,  says : — 
'  There  is  every  reason  for  believing  that  their  resources  in  coal  and 
iron — staple  commodities  of  those  nations  of  greatest  prosperity — 
will,  when  fully  developed,  compare  favorably  with  those  of  any 
civilized  country  on  the  face  of  the  earth.'  In  Butler  county  there  is 
much  iron  ore,  but  it  is  said  to  be  of  the  honeycomb  variety,  which 
is  considered  comparatively  valueless.  A  large  amount  of  capital 
could  be  profitably  invested  in  utilizing  the  iron  interest  of  this 
State. 

"  Lead  is  found  in  Trimble,  Owen,  Bourbon,  Scott,  Franklin,  An- 
derson, Livingston,  and  counties  contiguous.  In  Anderson  there  is 
a  mine  said  to  yield  80  per  cent,  of  lead,  but  the  chemist  making  the 
test  reported  that  it  would  not  pay  to  work  it.  In  Livingston,  lead 
has  been  found  upon  the  surface,  but  has  not  been  worked  to  any 
extent.  Salt  wells  exist  in  several  counties,  but  are  not  worked.  In 


KENTUCKY. 


79T 


Vl-S 


INSIDE   MAMMOTH   CAVE. 


Clinton,  says  our  correspondent,  'a  fine  stream  of  salt  water  has  been 
struck  on  Willis  Creek,  in  the  northwest,  and  a  company  are  now  at 
work  producing  salt,  and  the  prospect  is  considered  good.  There  is 
a  fine  opening  for  men  experienced  in  salt  making,  there  being  an 
abundance  of  water,  and  timber  and  labor  is  cheap.  Salt  for  the 
Nashville  market  and  for  the  Cumberland  River  country  comes  from 
Ohio  and  Western  Virginia.  The  cost  of  shipping  salt  down  the 
Ohio  and  up  the  Cumberland  is  certainly  much  greater  than  down 
the  Cumberland  to  Nashville/  Salt  water  also  abounds  in  Metcalfe, 
Anderson,  Whitley,  Russell,  etc.  There  has  recently  been  discovered 
a  gold  mine  in  Anderson  county,  and  its  value  is  being  now  tested  by 
a  company.  Saltpetre  is  found  in  Rockcastle,  and  limestone  and  free- 
stone abound  in  Lewis,  Trimble,  Clarke,  and  other  counties.  Our 
Lewis  county  correspondent  claims  for  his  county  '  the  finest  ledge  of 
freestone  from  Pittsburg  to  Cincinnati,  from  which  nearly  all  the 
fine  buildings  in  the  latter  city  are  now  being  built,  and  the  rock  of 
which  the  Cincinnati  and  Covington  bridge  was  built  was  taken  from 


798  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  quarries  of  this  county ;  not  extensively  worked,  there  being  but 
one  quarry  in  operation,  employing  200  men/  "  * 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  mild  and  healthful.  The  winters  are  short  and 
pleasant,  and  the  summers  are  cool  and  delightful.  The  State  is  al- 
most exempt  from  the  sudden  changes  which  afflict  the  Atlantic 
States. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

As  a  general  rule  the  soil  of  Kentucky  is  extremely  fertile.  Scarcely 
any  of  the  land  is  unfit  for  cultivation.  The  soil  is  generally  a  black 
mould,  often  two  and  three  feet  deep.  Extensive  and  almost  impene- 
trable canebrakes  occur  in  various  parts  of  the  State,  and  fine  natural 
pastures  occupy  a  region  lying  in  the  south  central  part,  along  the 
sources  of  the  Green  River,  and  known  as  the  "  Barrens." 

The*  State  is  almost  exclusively  agricultural  in  its  pursuits.  The 
great  staples  are  corn,  tobacco,  flax,  hemp,  and  wheat.  There  are 
20,563,652  acres  of  improved  and  unimproved  land  in  the  State, 
valued  at  $217,672,826.  The  tobacco  crop,  in  1870,  amounted  to 
90,000  hhds.  In  1869,  the  principal  returns  were  as  follows: 

Bushels  of  wheat, .  5,500,000 

Indian  corn,    .    .    .    . 51,500,000 

"           oats, 5,800,000 

Irish  potatoes, 2,100,000 

"           rye, 775,000 

"           barley, 304,000 

Tons  of  hay, 155,000 

Number  of  horses, 650,811 

asses  and  mules,       140,910 

"           milch  cows, 280,191 

"           sheep, 1,001,861 

"           swine, •    .  2,690,870 

young  cattle, 610,845 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $69,868,237 

Pounds  of  wool  (estimated), .  2,500,000 

"           flax           " .  800,000 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Kentucky  has  no  foreign  commerce,  but  carries  on  an  active  trade 
with  the  States  along  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers.  Stock  raising 

*  Agricultural  Eeport,  March,  1868. 


KENTUCKY.  799 

forms  an  important  interest  in  this  State,  and  large  droves  of  cattle, 
horses,  and  mules  are  annually  sent  to  the  Eastern  States  for  sale. 

In  1860,  there  were  in  this  State  3450  establishments  devoted  to 
manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  They  employed  a  capi- 
tal of  $20,256,579,  and  produced  goods  worth  $37,931,240.  The 
principal  products  were  as  follows : 

Yalue  of  woollen  goods, $1,128,882 

agricultural  implements, 597,118 

pig-iron, ' 534,164 

rolled  iron, 514,000 

steam  engines  and  machinery,    .     .    .  1,004,664 

coal, 476,800 

sawed  and  planed  lumber, 2,200,674 

flour,       5,034,745 

spirituous  and  malt  liquors,     ....  1,179,351 

"         leather, 701,555 

f~. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  there  were  1123  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Kentucky, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  over  $35,000,000.  The  principal  cities  and 
towns  in  the  northern,  central,  and  western  portions  of  the  State  are 
connected  with  each  other  and  with  all  parts  of  the  Union  by  railroad, 
but  still  many  of  the  finest  sections  of  the  State  are  without  such 
means  of  communication  with  the  cities  on  the  Ohio.  Several  im- 
portant roads  have  been  projected,  and  if  constructed  will  remedy  this 
defect.  A  canal  extends  around  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  at  Louisville. 
It  is  one  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  was  constructed  by  the  General 
Government  at  a  cost  of  $750,000. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  Kentucky  contained  55  colleges,  with  nearly  8000  students; 
857  academies  and  other  schools,  with  about  28,000  pupils;  and  4237 
public  schools,  with  218,240  pupils. 

The  public  school  system  is  in  charge  of  a  Superintendent  of  Public 
Instruction,  Boards  of  County  Commissioners  and  local  trustees  in 
the  districts,  and  measures  are  being  carried  out  which  will  revolu- 
tionize the  old  system  and  render  it  more  efficient.  The  State  has  a 
permanent  school  fund. 

The  most  important  institution  in  the  State  is  the  Kentucky  Uni- 
versity. This  now  includes  the  State  University  established  in  1858, 


800  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Transylvania  University,  and  the  Agricultural  College.     It  is  located 
at  Lexington,  and  includes  "Ashland,"  the  home  of  Henry  Clay. 

In  1870,  there  were  5546  libraries  in  the  State,  with  1,909,230 
volumes;  and  the  number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  was  89,  of 
which  72  were  political,  7  religious,  and  1  literary. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Frankfort.  In  January,  1871,  it 
contained  680  convicts.  Considerable  additions  have  been  recently 
added  to  the  buildings. 

There  are  two  Lunatic  Asylums,  the  "  Eastern/'  at  Lexington,  and 
the  "  Western,"  at  Hopkinsville.  The  former  contained  258  inmates, 
in  October,  1867,  and  the  latter  283,  in  September,  1868. 

The  Kentucky  Institution  for  Deaf  Mutes  is  located  at  Danville,  and 
contains  about  96  pupils ;  and  the  Institution  for  the  Education  and 
Training  of  Feeble-minded  Children  is  at  Danville,  and  contains  about 
52  pupils. 

The  State  has  no  juvenile  reformatory  establishments  in  operation, 
but  the  new  House  of  Reform  was  completed  and  ready  for  use  in  the 
summer  of  1871. 

RELIGIOUS    DEMOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  2696  churches  in  this  State,  and  the  value  of 
church  property  was  $9,824,465. 

FINANCES. 

On  the  10th  of  October,  1870,  the  total  debt  of  the  State  was 
$1,424,934.  The  total  expenditures  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year 
ending  in  October,  1870,  amounted  to  $1,082,639,  and  the  receipts  to 
$996,750. 

In  October,  1868,  there  were  15  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of 
$2,885,000,  doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  white  male  citizen,  21  years  old,  who  has  resided  two  years 
in  the  State,  one  year  in  the  county,  and  sixty  days  in  the  precinct  in 
which  he  presents  his  ballot,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Auditor,  Treasurer,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a 


KENTUCKY.  801 

General  Assembly,  composed  of  a  Senate  (of  38  members,  elected  for 
four  years,  one  half  retiring  biennially)  and  a  House  of  Delegates  (of 
100  members,  elected  for  two  years).  The  Governor,  Lieutenant- 
Go  vernor,  Auditor,  and  Attorney-General,  and  Members  of  the  Legis- 
lature are  elected  by  the  people.  The  Secretary  of  State  is  appointed 
by  the  Governor,  and  confirmed  by  the  Senate.  All  the  State  officers 
serve  four  years. 

The  courts  of  the  State  are  a  Supreme  Court  of  Appeals  (con- 
sisting of  four  judges),  Circuit  Courts,  County  Courts,  and  Justices' 
Courts.  All  the  judges  are  Justices  of  the  Peace,  and  all  are  elected 
by  the  people.  In  the  Supreme  Court,  the  judge  having  the  shortest 
term  to  serve  is  the  Chief  Justice. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  at  Frankfort. 

For  purposes  of  government  the  State  is  divided  into  109  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Kentucky  was  originally  included  within  the  limits  of  Virginia. 
The  name  is  an  Indian  word,  signifying  "the  dark  and  bloody 
ground."  In  1766,  Colonel  James  Smith  made  a  journey  of  explora- 
tion into  this  region,  starting  from  the  Holston  River.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  three  white  men  and  a  negro  slave.  He  found  the  territory 
unoccupied  by  any  Indian  tribes  for  purposes  of  residence,  but 
evidently  used  as  a  hunting-ground  by  several  of  them.  It  gave  evi- 
dence of  great  fertility,  and  its  rich  beauty  impressed  the  explorers 
profoundly.  In  1767,  John  Findley  and  several  companions  set  out 
from  North  Carolina  on  a  trading  expedition  to  this  region,  and  in 
1769,  Daniel  Boone  entered  it  with  a  party  of  five,  in  which  went 
John  Findley,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  it.  The  party  built  a 
cabin  on  Red  River,  from  which  they  made  repeated  excursions. 
During  one  of  these  excursions,  Boone  and  a  man  named  Stuart  were 
captured  by  the  Indians.  They  made  their  escape,  and  returned  to 
their  camp.  They  found  it  deserted  and  destroyed,  but  never 
learned  the  fate  of  those  whom  they  had  left  there.  Soon  after  this, 
Boone  returned  to  his  home  in  North  Carolina. 

In  1770,  a  party  of  Tennesseans,  from  the  Clinch  River,  under 
Colonel  James  Knox,  went  into  Kentucky.  They  remained  there 
some  time,  and  thoroughly  explored  the  southern  and  middle  parts. 
Boone's  party  was  in  Kentucky  at  this  time,  but  never  encountered 
Colonel  Knox  or  any  of  his  men.  They  confined  their  explorations 
to  the  middle  and  northern  sections. 
51 


802  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  reports  of  Boone  and  Knox  caused  the  settlers  of  Virginia  and 
North  Carolina  to  feel  a  lively  interest  in  the  new  country,  in  which 
the  lands  given  to  the  Virginia  troops,  for  services  in  the  French  war, 
were  located.  Surveyors  were  soon  after  sent  out  to  lay  off  these 
lands,  and  in  1773,  a  party,  under  Captain  Bullit,  reached  the  falls 
of  the  Ohio,  and  built  a  fortified  camp  there,  for  the  purpose  of  sur- 
veying the  region. 

In  1774,  James  Harrod  built  a  station,  which  soon  grew  into  con- 
siderable importance,  and  thus  founded  the  town  of  Harrodsburg,  the 
oldest  settlement  in  Kentucky. 

The  next  year,  1775,  Daniel  Boone  built  a  fort  on  the  site  of  the 
present  town  of  Boonesborough.  The  savages  made  repeated  attacks 
upon  his  party,  hoping  to  drive  them  away,  but  without  success. 
The  fort  was  finished  by  the  middle  of  April,  1775,  and  soon  after 
Boone  was  joined  by  his  wife  and  daughters.  He  continued  to  reside 
in  the  fort  with  them. 

In  the  same  year  Simon  Kenton  built  a  cabin  on  the  site  of  the 
present  town  of  Washington,  in  Mason  county. 

In  the  spring  of  1777,  the  General  Assembly  of  Virginia  consti- 
tuted the  Kentucky  region  a  county,  and  established  a  Court  of 
Quarter  Sessions  at  Harrodsburg. 

During  the  Revolution  the  settlements  suffered  much  from  the 
British  and  Indians.  In  1780,  several  of  the  forts  were  taken  by 
them,  cannon  being  employed  for  their  reduction. 

A  large  number  of  settlers  came  out  in  1780  and  1781,  notwith- 
standing the  danger  from  the  Indians.  On  the  19th  of  August,  1782, 
a  bloody  battle  was  fought  between  the  whites  and  the  savages,  near 
Blue  Lick  Springs,  in  which  the  former  were  defeated.  For  some 
years  after  this,  numerous  expeditions  were  sent  from  Kentucky  into 
the  Indian  country  (the  present  State  of  Ohio)  and  many  severe 
conflicts  were  fought  in  that  region. 

After  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  the  Government  of  Virginia  and 
the  Federal  Congress  afforded  so  little  protection  to  the  settlers  that 
they  became  restless  and  discontented.  The  trouble  was  increased  by 
the  fear  that  the  Federal  Government  meant  to  surrender  the  right  to 
.navigate  the  Mississippi,  which  the  settlers  saw  would  be  essential  to 
the  future  prosperity  of  their  country.  It  was  some  time  before  these 
discontents  were  quieted.  In  1774  and  in  1775,  conventions  were 
held  at  Danville,  which  recommended  peaceable  and  quiet  separation 
from  Virginia,  and  the  establishment  of  a  separate  Government  for 


KENTUCKY.  803 

Kentucky.  Several  other  conventions  were  held,  during  which  a  de- 
sire for  a  separate  nationality  was  distinctly  expressed.  Spain  en- 
deavored to  draw  the  Kentuckians  off  from  the  Union  by  offers  of 
special  privileges  on  the  Mississippi,  but  better  counsels  prevailed,  and 
the  Kentuckians  adopted  an  address  to  Congress.  The  result  was 
that  the  Territory  of  Kentucky  was  ceded  by  Virginia  to  the  General 
Government.  It  was  fully  organized  by  Congress  in  1790,  and  in 
1792  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State.  Its  population  now 
numbered  75,000.  The  inefficient  protection  against  the  Indians 
afforded  by  the  Federal  Government,  the  taxes,  and  the  Mississippi 
question  continued  to  agitate  the  State  for  some  years,  and  until  the 
purchase  of  Louisiana  put  an  end  to  the  Mississippi  dispute,  and  the 
peace  of  1815  broke  the  power  of  the  savages. 

During  the  second  war  with  England,  Kentucky  contributed  many 
troops  to  the  western  army  under  General  Harrison.  Many  of  her 
best  citizens  were  killed  at  the  massacre  at  the  River  Raisin,  and  in  the 
attempt  to  relieve  Fort  Meigs.  Her  citizens  responded  promptly  to 
the  call  for  troops  for  the  defence  of  New  Orleans,  and  the  Kentucky 
riflemen  made  a  proud  name  on  the  plains  of  Chalmette.  Indeed, 
they  volunteered  so  fast  that  the  State  authorities  had  to  intervene, 
and  compel  them  to  remain  at  home.  The  Kentucky  troops  nobly 
sustained  their  old  reputation  in  the  war  with  Mexico. 

The  State  grew  rapidly  in  population  and  wealth,  and  was  prosper- 
ing beyond  the  most  sanguine  expectations  of  its  -original  founders. 
When  the  Rebellion  broke  out,  the  people  were  divided  in  sentiment, 
and  a  strong  effort  was  made  to  withdraw  the  State  from  the  Union, 
and  unite  it  with  the  Confederacy.  Failing  to  accomplish  this,  the 
friends  of  the  South  crossed  the  Tennessee  line,  and  entered  the  Con- 
federate army.  The  State  authorities,  however,  remained  loyal  to  the 
Union,  and  the  regular  administration  of  the  Government,  though 
much  interrupted,  was  continued.  The  State  was  invaded  by  the 
Confederate  forces  in  the  summer  of  1861,  and  was  held  by  them 
until  the  next  spring,  when  they  were  forced  back  into  Tennessee. 
In  the  summer  of  1862,  it  was  again  invaded  by  the  Confederates. 
Several  severe  battles  were  fought  on  its  soil,  and  it  was  frequently' 
entered  and  harassed  by  raiding  parties. 

CITIES    AND    TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Louisville, 
Lexington,  Covington,  Newport,  Maysville,  Henderson,  Paducal\ 
Columbus,  Hickman,  Danville,  and  Paris. 


804  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

FRANKFORT, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Franklin  county,  on  the  north- 
east bank  of  the  Kentucky  River,  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  53  miles 
east  of  Louisville,  and  550  miles  west  of  Washington.  Latitude 
38°  14'  N.,  longitude  84°  40'  W.  The  site  of  the  town  is  a  deep 
valley,  surrounded  by  abrupt  hills.  Towards  the  northeast  it  rises  to 
a  considerable  height,  and  from  this  portion  of  the  town  views  may 
be  had  of  some  most  exquisite  scenery. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  generally  well  built.  Many 
of  the  houses  are  constructed  of  a  fine  limestone  or  marble  which 
abounds  in  the  vicinity.  The  general  appearance  of  the  city  is  hand- 
some and  picturesque. 

The  State  Capitol  is  a  fine  building  of  white  marble.  It  stands  on 
an  eminence  near  the  centre  of  the  town.  Frankfort  contains  the 
Governor's  House,  the  State  Penitentiary,  the  State  Arsenal,  a  Court 
House,  six  churches,  several  good  schools,  the  State  Institution  for 
Feeble  Minded  Children,  and  the  Kentucky  Military  Institute.  It 
is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  spring-water  brought  into 
the  town  in  iron  pipes.  Two  newspapers  are  published  here.  In 
1870,  the  population  was  5396. 

The  Kentucky  River  is  100  yards  wide  at  Frankfort,  and  is  spanned 
by  a  chain  bridge  which  connects  the  city  with  the  suburb  of  South 
Frankfort.  Steamers  ascend  to  the  city,  which  is  the  centre  of  an 
active  trade.  The  river  here  flows  through  a  deep  channel  of  lime- 
stone rock,  and  is  noted  for  its  beautiful  scenery.  Railroads  connect 
Frankfort  with  Louisville,  Cincinnati,  Nashville,  and  the  other  cities 
of  the  Union. 

Frankfort  was  established  by  Act  of  the  Legislature  of  Virginia, 
in  1786.  It  was  made  the  capital  of  Kentucky  in  1792.  During  the 
civil  war,  it  was  captured  by  the  Confederate  cavalry,  on  the  6th  of 
September,  1862. 

LOUISVILLE, 

The  largest  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Jefferson  county,  on  the 
south  or  left  bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  at  the  head  of  the  falls,  51 
miles  west  of  Frankfort,  625  miles  by  the  course  of  the  river  below 
Pittsburg,  394  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  590  miles 
west-by-south  from  Washington. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  spacious  sloping  plain,  70  feet  above  low- 


KENTUCKY. 


805 


FRANKFOET. 


water  mark,  and  is  laid  out  with  regularity,  the  streets,  which  arc 
from  60  to  120  feet  in  width,  intersecting  at  right-angles  in  a  direc- 
tion with  and  from  the  river.  Ten  streets  run  parallel  with  the  river, 
and  thirty  streets  intersect  them.  Along  the  river  shore  are  extensive 
wharves.  The  streets  are  generally  well  paved,  arid  are  in  many 
instances  shaded  with  trees.  The  general  appearance  of  the  city  is 
bright  and  attractive,  and  here  are  to  be  seen  some  of  the  handsomest 
buildings  in  the  West.  The  surrounding  country  is  very  beautiful. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  the  Court  House, 
the  Custom  House,  and  the  Masonic  Hall,  all  of  which  are  handsome 
structures. 

The  schools  of  Louisville  have  always  been  regarded  as  among  the 
best  in  the  country.  Its  public  schools  are  perhaps  the  oldest  in  the 
West.  There  are  a  number  of  public  schools  for  both  sexes,  and 
several  flourishing  private  seminaries.  The  higher  schools  are  the 
University  of  Louisville,  and  the  Medical  Institute.  There  is  a  Law 
School  connected  with  the  University.  The  Mercantile  Library  is  a 
flourishing  institution  with  a  good  collection  of  books ;  and  the  His- 
torical Society  possesses  many  interesting  documents  relating  to  the 
early  history  of  the  State. 

The  Benevolent  Institutions  are  well  managed.  They  are  the  State 
Asylum  for  the  Blind,  whose  handsome  buildings  were  erected  partly 
by  the  contributions  of  the  citizens ;  the  State  Marine  Asylum,  two 


806 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


LOUISVILLE. 


Orphan  Asylums,  and  several  societies  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  and 
suffering. 

The  city  contains  about  40  churches,  and  about  12  newspaper  and 
4  magazine  offices;  and  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  water 
from  the  Ohio  River.  It  possesses  an  efficient  police  force,  and  a 
steam  fire  engine  service.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council. 
In  1870,  the  population  was  100,753. 

Louisville  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railway. 
The  Ohio  is  here  crossed  by  a  magnificent  railway  bridge,  which  gives 
the  city  unbroken  communication  with  the  East  and  West. 

The  navigation  of  the  Ohio  is  interrupted  at  Louisville  by  the  only 
falls  which  occur  in  the  course  of  the  stream.  These  falls  are  very 
picturesque  in  appearance.  In  high  stages  of  the  water,  they  entirely 
disappear,  and  steamboats  pass  over  them  ;  but  when  the  water  is  low, 
the  whole  width  of  the  river,  which  is  scarcely  less  than  a  mile,  has 
the  appearance  of  a  great  many  broken  rivers  of  foam,  making  their 
way  over  the  rocks.  The  river  is  divided  by  a  fine  island,  which 
adds  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  To  overcome  the  obstruction  caused 


KENTUCKY.  807 

by  the  falls,  a  canal  was  cut  around  them,  in  1833.  It  is  2J  miles 
long,  50  feet  wide,  10  feet  deep,  with  a  total  lockage  of  22  feet.  It 
was  cut  through  the  solid  limestome  rock,  and  cost  $750,000.  The 
city  carries  on  a  heavy  river  trade,  both  above  and  below  the  falls. 
Its  wharves  are  at  all  times  thronged  with  steamers  and  other  river 
craft,  carrying  to  and  fro  a  merchandise  inferior  only  to  that  coming 
and  going  from  Pittsburg  and  Cincinnati.  The  principal  exports  are 
tobacco,  bagging,  rope,  cordage,  spirits,  pork,  flax,  hemp,  live  stock, 
and  machinery.  The  value  of  the  commerce  of  the  city  is  estimated 
at  from  $80,000,000  to  $100,000,000  per  annum.  A  large  number 
of  steamers  engaged  in  the  river  trade  are  owned  in  the  city. 

The  city  is  also  largely  engaged  in  manufacturing  enterprises.  It 
has  a  number  of  machine  shops  and  founderies;  several  large  steam 
bagging  factories,  rope  walks,  cotton  and  woollen  factories,  flouring 
mills,  tobacco  factories,  distilleries,  breweries,  and  agricultural  imple- 
ment factories,  whose  aggregate  production  makes  up  a  large  portion 
of  its  industry.  The  city  has  grown  rapidly  in  wealth  and  popula- 
tion during  the  last  ten  years. 

Louisville  was  laid  out  in  1773,  but  no  settlement  was  made  on  the 
spot  till  1778,  when  a  block-house  was  built.  In  1780,  the  town  was 
established  by  an  Act  of  the  Virginia  Legislature.  In  1800,  the 
population  amounted  to  600.  The  settlement  suffered  considerably  in 
its  infancy  from  the  incursions  of  the  Indians,  but  grew  rapidly  after 
the  close  of  the  second  war  with  England. 

COVItfGTON, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Kenton  county,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Ohio  and  the  west  bank  of  the  Licking,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  those  rivers,  and  immediately  opposite  the  city  of  Cincin- 
nati, Ohio,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  suspension  bridge.  It  is 
also  connected  with  the  city  of  Newport  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Licking  by  a  suspension  bridge.  It  is  60  miles  north-northeast  of 
Frankfort.  The  city  is  built  on  a  beautiful  plain  extending  back 
from  the  river,  and  the  streets  are  so  arranged  as  to  appear  from  the 
hills  back  of  Cincinnati  as  a  continuation  of  that  city.  The  city  is 
well  built  and  presents  a  handsome  appearance  from  the  river.  Many 
persons  doing  business  in  Cincinnati  reside  here.  The  city  is  lighted 
with  gas  and  supplied  with  water,  and  is  connected  with  Cincinnati 
by  a  street  railway.  It  contains  about  10  churches,  several  good  pub- 
lic and  private  schools,  and  a  newspaper  office.  It  is  the  seat  of  the 


808  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Western  Theological  Seminary,  a  richly  endowed  institution  under 
the  direction  of  the  Baptists.  It  contains  a  number  of  rolling  mills, 
pork  houses,  and  manufactories  of  hemp,  silk,  and  tobacco.  It  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was- 
24,505.  Covington  has  direct  railway  connection  with  Frankfort  and 
Louisville. 

NEWPORT, 

The  third  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Campbell  county,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Ohio,  and  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Licking  River, 
immediately  opposite  Cincinnati  and  Covington.  It  is  connected  with 
Covington  by  a  handsome  suspension  bridge  across  the  Licking.  It 
is  beautifully  situated,  possessing  an  advantage  over  either  of  the 
neighboring  cities  in  this  respect.  It  is  occupied  principally  with  resi- 
dences, many  of  which  are  very  handsome.  It  contains  several 
schools,  about  12  churches,  and  a  newspaper  office.  Several  large 
rolling  mills,  iron  founderies,  and  steam  mills,  and  a  manufactory  of 
silk  goods,  are  located  here.  An  arsenal  and  barracks  of  the  United 
States  army  are  located  here  at  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers.  The 
city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water.  In  1870, 
the  population  was  15,087. 

LEXINGTON, 

The  fourth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Fayette  county,  on  the 
Town  Fork  of  the  Elkhorn  River,  25  miles  southeast  of  Frankfort, 
94  miles  east  of  Louisville,  and  81  miles  south  of  Cincinnati.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  in  the  heart  of  a  lovely  country,  and  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  and  wealthiest  cities  in  the  State.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  in 
rectangular  blocks,  with  well-paved  streets  bordered  with  ornamental 
trees.  It  is  one  of  the  best  built  towns  in  the  West,  many  of  the  pub- 
lic and  private  buildings  being  noted  for  their  beauty.  The  surround- 
ing country  is  occupied  with  elegant  country  seats,  and  adds  very 
much  to  the  general  appearance  of  Lexington. 

Lexington  is  noted  for  the  excellent  schools  which  it  contains.  The 
public  and  private  schools  are  in  flourishing  condition.  Transylvania 
University  is  located  here,  and  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  best  schools 
in  the  West.  Its  law  and  medical  schools  are  largely  attended.  Its 
library  numbers  over  25,000  volumes. 

The  city  also  contains  a  handsome  Court  House,  the  State  Lunatic 
Asylum,  about  12  churches,  and  several  newspaper  offices.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas  and  supplied  with  pure  water.  It  is  largely  en- 


KENTUCKY.  809 

gaged  in  the  manufacture  of  bagging,  ropes,  iron,  brass,  silver  ware, 
carriages,  and  machinery.  It  is  connected  by  railway  with  all  parts 
of  the  State.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the 
population  was  14,801. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Lexington  is  Ashland,  the  home  of 
Henry  Clay.  The  city  contains  a  handsome  monument  to  his  memory, 
erected  in  part  by  the  State. 

Lexington  was  founded  in  1776.  It  appears  that  a  party  of  hun- 
ters, in  1775,  while  encamped  on  the  spot  where  Lexington  is  now 
built,  heard  of  the  first  conflict  between  the  British  and  Provincial 
forces  at  Lexington,  Mass.  In  commemoration  of  this  event,  they 
called  the  place  of  their  encampment  Lexington.  The  town  was  in- 
corporated by  Virginia  in  1782,  and  was  for  several  years  the  capital 
of  Kentucky.  In  1787,  the  publication  of  the  Kentucky  Gazette  was 
begun;  and  in  1798  Transylvania  University  was  established. 

MISCELLANY. 

ADVENTURES    OF    DANIEL    BOONE. 

WRITTEN    BY    HIMSELF. 

It  was  on  the  1st  of  May,  1769,  that  I  resigned  my  domestic  happiness,  and  left 
my  family  and  peaceable  habitation  on  the  Yadkin  River,  in  North  Carolina,  to 
wander  through  the  wilderness  of  America,  in  quest  of  the  country  of  Kentucky, 
in  company  with  John  Finley,  John  Stuart,  Joseph  Holden,  James  Monay,  and 
William  Cool. 

On  the  7th  of  June,  after  travelling  in  a  western  direction,  we  found  ourselves 
on  Red  River,  where  John  Finley  had  formerly  been  trading  with  the  Indians, 
an(J  from  the  top  of  an  eminence  saw  with  pleasure  the  beautiful  level  of  Ken- 
tucky. For  some  time  we  had  experienced  the  most  uncomfortable  weather. 
We  now  encamped,  made  a  shelter  to  defend  us  from  the  inclement  season,  and 
began  to  hunt,  and  reconnoitre  the  country.  We  found  abundance  of  wild  beasts 
in  this  vast  forest.  The  buffaloes  were  more  numerous  than  cattle  in  the  settle- 
ments, browsing  on  the  leaves  of  the  cane,  or  cropping  the  herbage  on  these  ex- 
tensive plains.  We  saw  hundreds  in  a  drove,  and  the  numbers  about  the  salt- 
springs  were  amazing.  In  this  forest,  the  habitation  of  beasts  of  every  American 
kind,  we  hunted  with  great  success  until  December. 

On  the  22d  of  December,  John  Stuart  and  I  had  a  pleasing  ramble  ;  but  fortune 
changed  the  day  at  the  close  of  it.  We  passed  through  a  great  forest,  in  which 
stood  myriads  of  trees,  some  gay  with  blossoms,  others  rich  with  fruits.  Nature 
Was  here  a  series  of  wonders  and  a  fund  of  delight.  Here  she  displayed  her  in- 
genuity and  industry  in  a  variety  of  flowers  and  fruits,  beautifully  colored,  ele- 
gantly shaped,  and  charmingly  flavored  ;  and  we  were  favored  with  numberless 
animals  presenting  themselves  perpetually  to  our  view.  In  the  decline  of  the 
day,  near  Kentucky  River,  as  we  ascended  the  brow  of  a  small  hill,  a  number  of 


810  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Indians  rushed  out  of  a  canebrake  and  made  us  prisoners.  The  Indians  plun- 
dered us,  and  kept  us  in  confinement  seven  days.  During  this  time,  we  dis- 
covered no  uneasiness  or  desire  to  escape,  which  made  them  less  suspicious  ;  but 
in  the  dead  of  night,  as  we  lay  by  a  large  fire  in  a  thick  canebrake,  when  sleep 
had  locked  up  their  senses,  my  situation  not  disposing  me  to  rest,  I  gently  awoke 
my  companion.  We  seized  this  favorable  opportunity  and  departed,  directing 
our  course  toward  the  old  camp,  but  found  it  plundered,  and  our  company  de- 
stroyed or  dispersed. 

About  this  time,  my  brother,  with  another  adventurer,  who  came  to  explore 
the  country  shortly  after  us,  were  wandering  through  the  forest,  and  accidentally 
came  upon  our  camp.  Notwithstanding  our  unfortunate  circumstances,  and  our 
dangerous  situation,  surrounded  with  hostile  savages,  our  meeting  fortunately  in 
the  wilderness  gave  us  the  most  sensible  satisfaction. 

Soon  after  this  my  companion  in  captivity,  John  Stuart,  wras  killed  by  the  sav- 
ages, and  the  man  who  came  with  my  brother,  while  on  a  private  excursion,  was 
soon  after  attacked  and  killed  by  the  wolves.  We  were  now  in  a  dangerous  and 
helpless  situation,  exposed  daily  to  perils  and  death,  among  savages  and  wild 
beasts,  not  a  white  man  in  the  country  but  ourselves. 

Although  many  hundreds  of  miles  from  our  families,  in  the  howling  wilder- 
ness, we  did  not  continue  in  a  state  of  indolence,  but  hunted  every  day,  and  pre- 
pared a  little  cottage  to  defend  us  from  the  winter.  On  the  1st  of  May,  1770,  my 
brother  returned  home  for  a  new  recruit  of  horses  and  ammunition,  leaving  me 
alone,  without  bread,  salt,  or  sugar,  or  even  a  horse  or  a  dog.  I  passed  a  few 
days  uncomfortably.  The  idea  of  a  beloved  wife  and  family,  and  their  anxiety 
on  my  account,  would  have  disposed  me  to  melancholy  if  I  had  further  indulged 
the  thought. 

One  day  I  undertook  a  tour  through  the  country,  when  the  diversities  and 
beauties  of  nature  I  met  with  in  this  charming  season  expelled  every  gloomy 
thought.  Just  at  the  close  of  the  day,  the  gentle  gales  ceased  ;  a  profound  calm 
ensued  ;  not  a  breath  shook  the  tremulous  leaf.  I  had  gained  the  summit  of  a 
commanding  ridge,  and,  looking  around  with  astonishing  delight,  beheld  the 
ample  plains  and  beauteous  tracts  below.  On  one  hand,  I  surveyed  the  famous 
Ohio  rolling  in  silent  dignity,  and  marking  the  western  boundary  of  Kentucky 
with  inconceivable  grandeur.  At  a  vast  distance,  I  beheld  the  mountains  lift 
their  venerable  brows  and  penetrate  the  clouds.  All  things  were  still.  I  kindled 
a  fire  near  a  fountain  of  sweet  water,  and  feasted  on  the  loin  of  a  buck  which  I 
had  killed  a  few  hours  before.  The  shades  of  night  soon  overspread  the  hemis- 
phere, and  the  earth  seemed  to  gasp  after  the  hovering  moisture.  At  a  distance 
I  frequently  heard  the  hideous  yells  of  savages.  My  excursion  had  fatigued  my 
body  and  amused  my  mind.  I  laid  me  down  to  sleep,  and  awoke  not  until  the 
eun  had  chased  away  the  night.  I  continued  this  tour,  and  in  a  few  days  ex- 
plored a  considerable  part  of  the  country,  each  day  equally  pleasing  as  the  first ; 
after  which  I  returned  to  my  old  camp,  which  had  not  been  disturbed  in  my  ab- 
sence. I  could  not  confine  my  lodging  to  it,  but  often  reposed  in  thick  cane- 
brakes  to  avoid  the  savages,  who  I  believe  frequently  visited  my  camp,  but, 
fortunately  for  me,  in  my  absence.  No  populous  city,  with  all  its  varieties  of 
commerce  and  stately  structures,  could  afford  such  pleasure  to  my  mind  as  the 
beauties  of  nature  I  found  in  this  country. 

Until  the  27th  of  July,  I  spent  my  time  in  an  uninterrupted  scene  of  sylvan 
pleasures,  when  my  brother,  to  my  great  felicity,  met  me  according  to  appoint- 


KENTUCKY.  811 

ment  at  our  old  camp.  Soon  after  we  left  the  place,  and  proceeded  to  the  Cum- 
berland River,  reconnoitering  that  part  of  the  country,  and  giving  names  to  the 
different  rivers. 

In  March,  1771,  I  returned  home  to  my  family,  being  determined  to  bring 
them  as  soon  as  possible,  at  the  risk  of  my  life  and  fortune,  to  reside  in  Ken- 
tucky, which  I  esteemed  a  second  Paradise. 

On  my  return,  I  found  my  family  in  happy  circumstances.  I  sold  my  farm  on 
the  Yadkin  and  what  goods  we  could  not  carry  with  us,  and,  on  the  2oth  of  Sep- 
tember, 1773,  we  took  leave  of  our  friends  and  proceeded  on  our  journey  to 
Kentucky,  in  company  with  five  more  families,  and  40  men  that  joined  us  in 
Powell's  Valley,  which  is  150  miles  from  the  new  settled  parts  of  Kentucky. 
But  this  promising  beginning  was  soon  overcast  with  a  cloud  of  adversity. 

On  the  10th  of  October,  the  rear  of  our  company  was  attacked  by  a  party  of 
Indians,  who  killed  6,  and  wounded  one  man.  Of  these,  my  oldest  son  was  one 
that  fell  in  the  action.  Though  we  repulsed  the  enemy,  yet  this  unhappy  affair 
scattered  our  cattle  and  brought  us  into  extreme  difficulty.  We  returned  40 
miles,  to  the  settlement  on  Clench  River.  We  had  passed  over  two  mountains, 
Powell  and  Walden's,  and  were  approaching  Cumberland  Mountain,  when  this 
adverse  fortune  overtook  us.  These  mountains  are  in  the  wilderness,  in  passing 
from  the  old  settlement  in  Virginia  to  Kentucky  ;  they  range  in  a  southwest  and 
northeast  direction ;  are  of  great  length  and  breadth,  and  not  far  distant  from 
each  other.  Over  them  nature  has  formed  passes  less  difficult  than  might  be  ex- 
pected from  the  view  of  such  huge  piles.  The  aspect  of  these  cliffs  is  so  wild  and 
horrid  that  it  is  impossible  to  behold  them  without  horror. 

Until  the  6th  of  June,  1774,  I  remained  with  my  family  on  the  Clench,  when 
myself  and  another  person  were  solicited  by  Governor  Dunmore,  of  Virginia,  to 
conduct  a  number  of  surveyors  to  the  falls  of  Ohio.  This  was  a  tour  of  800 
miles,  and  took  62  days. 

On  my  return,  Governor  Dunmore  gave  me  the  command  of  three  garrisons 
during  the  campaign  against  the  Shawnees.  In  March,  1775,  at  the  solicitation 
of  a  number  of  gentlemen  of  North  Carolina,  I  attended  their  treaty  at  Wataga 
with  the  Cherokee  Indians,  to  purchase  the  lands  on  the  south  side  of  the  Ken- 
tucky River*  After  this,  I  undertook  to  mark  out  a  road  in  the  best  passage  from 
the  settlements  through  the  wilderness  to  Kentucky. 

Having  collected  a  number  of  enterprising  men,  well  armed,  I  soon  began  this 
work.  We  proceeded  until  we  came  within  15  miles  of  where  Boonsborough 
now  stands,  where  the  Indians  attacked  us,  and  killed  2,  and  wounded  2  more  of 
our  party.  This  was  on  the  22d  of  March,  1775.  Two  days  after,  we  were  again 
attacked  by  them,  when  we  had  2  more  killed,  and  3  wounded.  After  this,  we 
proceeded  on  to  Kentucky  River  without  opposition. 

On  the  1st  of  April,  we  began  to  erect  the  fort  of  Boonsborough,  at  a  salt  lick 
60  yards  from  the  river,  on  the  south  side.  On  the  4th,  the  Indians  killed  one 
of  our  men.  On  the  14th  of  June,  having  completed  the  fort,  I  returned  to  my 
family  on  the  Clench,  and  whom  I  soon  afterward  removed  to  the  fort.  My  wife 
and  daughter  were  supposed  to  be  the  first  white  women  that  ever  stood  on  the 
banks  of  Kentucky  River. 

On  the  24th  of  December,  the  Indians  killed  one  of  our  men,  and  wounded 
another  ;  and  on  the  15th  of  July,  1776,  they  took  my  daughter  prisoner.  I  im- 
mediately pursued  them  with  8  men,  and  on  the  16th  overtook  and  engaged 
them.  I  killed  2  of  them  and  recovered  my  daughter. 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Indians,  having  divided  themselves  into  several  parties,  attacked  in  one 
day  all  our  infant  settlements  and  forts,  doing  a  great  deal  of  damage.  The  hus- 
bandmen were  ambushed  and  unexpectedly  attacked  while  toiling  in  the  field. 
They  continued  this  kind  of  warfare  until  the  15th  of  April,  1777,  when  nearly 
100  of  them  attacked  the  village  of  Boonsborough,  and  killed  a  number  of  its  in- 
habitants. On  the  16th,  Colonel  Logan's  fort  was  attacked  by  200  Indians. 
There  were  only  13  men  in  the  fort,  of  whom  the  enemy  killed  2,  and  wounded 
one. 

On  the  20th  of  August,  Colonel  Bowman  arrived  with  100  men  from  Virginia, 
with  which  additional  force  we  had  almost  daily  skirmishes  with  the  Indians, 
who  began  now  to  learn  the  superiority  of  the  *4  long  knife,"  as  they  termed  the 
Virginians  ;  being  out-generalled  in  almost  every  action.  Our  affairs  began  now 
to  wear  a  better  aspect ;  the  Indians  no  longer  daring  to  face  us  in  open  field,  but 
sought  private  opportunities  to  destroy  us. 

On  the  7th  of  February,  1778,  while  on  a  hunting  excursion  alone,  I  met  a 
party  of  102  Indians  and  2  Frenchmen,  marching  to  attack  Boonsborough.  They 
pursued  and  took  me  prisoner,  and  conveyed  me  to  Old  Chilicothe,  the  principal 
Indian  town  on  Little  Miami,  where  we  arrived  on  the  18th  of  February,  after 
an  uncomfortable  journey.  On  the  10th  of  March,  I  was  conducted  to  Detroit, 
and  while  there  was  treated  with  great  humanity  by  Governor  Hamilton,  the 
British  commander  at  that  port,  and  Intendant  for  Indian  Affairs. 

The  Indians  had  such  an  affection  for  me,  that  they  refused  £100  sterling,  of- 
fered them  by  the  Governor,  if  they  would  consent  to  leave  m§  with  him,  that  he 
might  be  enabled  to  liberate  me  on  my  parole.  Several  English  gentlemen,  then 
at  Detroit,  sensible  of  my  adverse  fortune,  and  touched  with  sj'mpathy,  gene- 
rously offered  to  supply  my  wants,  which  I  declined  with  many  thanks,  adding 
that  I  never  expected  it  would  be  in  my  power  to  recompense  such  unmerited 
generosity. 

On  the  10th  of  April,  the  Indians  returned  with  me  to  Old  Chilicothe,  where 
we  arrived  on  the  25th.  This  was  a  long  and  fatiguing  march,  although  through 
an  exceeding  fertile  country,  remarkable  for  springs  and  streams  of  water.  At 
Chilicothe  I  spent  my  time  as  comfortably  as  I  could  expect ;  was  adopted,  ac- 
cording to  their  custom,  into  a  family  where  I  became  a  son,  and  had  a  great 
share  in  the  affection  of  my  new  parents,  brothers,  sisters,  and  friends.  I  was 
exceedingly  familiar  and  friendly  with  them,  always  appearing  as  cheerful  and 
contented  as  possible,  and  they  put  great  confidence  in  me.  I  often  went  a  hunt- 
ing with  them,  and  frequently  gained  the  applause  for  my  activity  at  our  shoot- 
ing matches.  I  was  careful  not  to  exceed  many  of  them  in  shooting,  for  no 
people  are  more  envious  than  they  in  this  sport.  I  could  observe  in  their  counte- 
nances and  gestures  the  greatest  expressions  of  joy  when  they  exceeded  me,  and 
when  the  reverse  happened,  of  envy.  The  Shawnee  king  took  great  notice  of 
me,  and  treated  me  with  profound  respect,  and  entire  friendship,  often  intrusting 
me  to  hunt  at  my  liberty.  I  frequently  returned  with  the  spoils  of  the  woods, 
and  as  often  presented  some  of  what  I  had  taken  to  him,  expressive  of  duty  to 
my  sovereign.  My  food  and  lodging  were  in  common  with  them  ;  not  so  good, 
indeed,  as  I  could  desire,  but  necessity  made  everything  acceptable. 

I  now  began  to  meditate  an  escape,  and  carefully  avoided  giving  suspicion.  'I 
continued  at  Chilicothe  until  the  1st  day  of  June,  when  I  was  taken  to  the  salt 
springs  on  Sciotha,  and  there  employed  ten  days  in  the  manufacturing  of  salt. 
During  this  time,  I  hunted  with  my  Indian  masters,  and  found  the  land,  for  a 
great  extent  about  this  river,  to  exceed  the  soil  of  Kentucky. 


KENTUCKY.  813 

On  my  return  to  Chilicothe,  150  of  the  choicest  Indian  warriors  were  ready  to 
march  against  Boonsborough.  They  were  painted  and  armed  in  a  frightful  man- 
ner. This  alarmed  me,  and  I  determined  to  escape. 

On  the  26th  of  June,  before  sunrise,  I  went  off  secretly,  and  reached  Boons- 
borough  on  the  30th,  a  journey  of  160  miles,  during  which  I  had  only  one  meal. 
1  found  our  fortress  in  a  bad  state,  but  we  immediately  repaired  our  flanks,  gates, 
posterns,  and  formed  double  bastions,  which  we  completed  in  ten  days.  One  of 
my  fellow-prisoners  escaped  after  me,  and  brought  advice,  that  on  account  of  my 
flight,  the  Indians  had  put  off  their  expedition  for  three  weeks. 

About  the  1st  of  August,  I  set  out  with  19  men  to  surprise  Point  Creek-town, 
on  Sciotha,  within  4  miles  of  which  we  fell  in  with  40  Indians  going  against 
Boonsborough.  We  attacked  them,  and  they  soon  gave  way,  without  any  loss 
on  our  part. 

The  enemy  had  one  killed  and  two  wounded.  We  took  three  horses  and  all 
their  baggage.  The  Indians  having  evacuated  their  town,  and  gone  altogether 
against  Boonsborough,  we  returned,  passed  them  on  the  6th,  and  on  the  7th  ar- 
rived safe  at  Boonsborough. 

On  the  9th,  the  Indian  army,  consisting  of  444  men,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Duquesne,  and  11  other  Frenchmen,  and  their  chiefs,  arrived  and  sum- 
moned the  fort  to  surrender.  I  requested  two  days'  consideration,  which  was 
granted.  During  this  we  brought  in  through  the  posterns  all  the  horses  and  other 
cattle  we  could  collect. 

On  the  9th,  in  the  evening,  I  informed  their  commander  that  we  were  deter- 
mined to  defend  the  fort  while  a  man  was  living.  They  then  proposed  a  treaty  : 
they  would  withdraw.  The  treaty  was  held  within  60  yards  of  the  fort,  as  we 
suspected  the  savages.  The  articles  were  agreed  to  and  signed,  when  the  In- 
dians told  us,  as  it  was  their  custom  for  two  Indians  to  shake  hands  with  every 
white  man  in  the  treaty,  as  an  evidence  of  friendship.  We  agreed  to  this  also. 
They  immediately  grappled  us  to  take  us  prisoners,  but  we  cleared  ourselves  of 
them,  though  surrounded  by  hundreds,  and  gained  the  fort  safe,  except  one  man, 
who  was  wounded  by  a  heavy  fire  from  the  enemy. 

The  savages  now  began  to  undermine  the  fort,  beginning  at  the  watermark 
of  Kentucky  River,  which  is  60  yards  from  the  fort ;  this  we  discovered  by  the 
water  being  made  muddy  by  the  clay.  We  countermined  them  by  cutting  a 
trench  across  their  subterraneous  passage.  The  enemy,  discovering  this  by  the 
clay  we  threw  out  of  the  fort,  desisted.  On  the  20th  of  August,  they  raised  the 
siege,  during  which  we  had  2  men  killed,  and  4  wounded.  We  lost  a  number  of 
cattle.  The  loss  of  the  enemy  was  37  killed,  and  a  much  larger  number  wounded. 
We  picked  up  125  pounds  of  their  bullets,  beside  what  stuck  in  the  logs  of  the 
fort. 

In  July,  1779,  during  my  absence,  Colonel  Bowman,  with  160  men,  went 
against  the  Shawnecs  of  Old  Chilicotbe.  He  arrived  undiscovered.  A  battle  en- 
sued, which  lasted  until  10  in  the  morning,  when  Colonel  Bowman  retreated  30 
miles.  The  Indians  collected  all  their  strength  and  pursued  him,  when  another 
engagement  ensued  for  two  hours,  not  to  Colonel  Bowman's  advantage.  Colonel 
Harrod  proposed  to  mount  a  number  of  horses,  and  break  the  enemy's  line,  who 
at  this  time  fought  with  remarkable  fury.  This  desperate  measure  had  a  happy 
effect,  and  the  savages  fled  on  all  sides.  In  these  two  engagements  we  had  9 
men  killed  and  one  wounded.  Enemy's  loss  uncertain.  Only  two  scales  were 
token. 


814  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

June  23d,  1780,  500  Indians  and  Canadians,  under  Colonel  Bird,  attacked 
Riddle  and  Martain's  station,  and  the  forks  of  Licking  River,  with  6  pieces  of  ar- 
tillery. They  took  all  the  inhabitants  captive,  and  killed  one  man  and  two  wo- 
men, loading  the  others  with  the  heavy  baggage,  and  such  as  failed  in  the  journey 
were  tomahawked. 

The  hostile  disposition  of  the  savages  caused  General  Clarke,  the  commandant 
at  the  falls  of  Ohio,  to  march  with  his  regiment  and  the  armed  force  of  the 
country  against  Peccaway,  the  principal  town  of  the  Shawnees,  on  a  branch  of 
the  Great  Miami,  which  he  attacked  with  great  success,  took  70  scalps,  and  re- 
duced the  town  to  ashes,  with  the  loss  of  17  men. 

About  this  time,  I  returned  to  Kentucky  with  my  family ;  for,  during  my  cap- 
tivity, my  wife,  thinking  me  killed  by  the  Indians,  had  transported  my  family 
and  goods,  on  horses,  through  the  wilderness,  amidst  great  dangers,  to  her 
father's  house  in  North  Carolina. 

On  the  6th  of  October,  1780,  soon  after  my  settling  again  at  Boonsborough,  I 
went  with  my  brother  to  the  Blue  Licks,  and  on  our  return  he  was  shot  by  a 
party  of  Indians,  who  followed  me  by  the  scent  of  a  dog,  which  I  shot,  and  es- 
caped. The  severity  of  the  winter  caused  great  distress  in  Kentucky,  the  enemy, 
during  the  summer,  having  destroyed  most  of  the  corn.  The  inhabitants  lived 
chiefly  on  buffalo's  flesh. 

In  the  spring  of  1782,  the  Indians  harassed  us.  In  May,  they  ravished,  killed, 
and  scalped  a  woman  and  her  two  daughters,  near  Ashton's  station,  and  took  a 
negro  prisoner.  Captain  Ashton  pursued  them  with  25  men,  and  in  an  engage- 
ment, which  lasted  two  hours,  his  party  were  obliged  to  retreat,  having  8  killed, 
and  4  mortally  wounded.  Their  brave  commander  fell  in  the  action. 

On  August  18th,  two  boys  were  carried  off  from  Major  Hoy's  station.  Captain 
Holder  pursued  the  enemy  with  17  men,  who  were  also  defeated,  with  the  loss  of 
7  killed,  and  2  wounded.  Our  affairs  became  more  and  more  alarming.  The 
savages  infested  the  country,  and  destroyed  the  whites  as  opportunity  presented. 
In  a  field  near  Lexington,  an  Indian  shot  a  man,  and,  running  to  scalp  him,  was 
himself  shot  from  the  fort,  and  fell  dead  upon  the  ground.  All  the  Indian  na- 
tions were  now  united  against  us. 

On  August  15th,  500  Indians  and  Canadians  came  against  Briat's  station,  5 
miles  from  Lexington.  They  assaulted  the  fort,  and  killed  all  the  cattle  round 
it ;  but  being  repulsed,  they  retired  the  third  day,  having  about  80  killed  ;  their 
wounded  uncertain.  The  garrison  had  4  killed,  and  9  wounded. 

On  August  10th,  Colonels  Todd  and  Trigg,  Major  Harland  and  myself,  speedily 
collected  176  men,  well  armed,  and  pursued  the  savages.  They  had  marched  be- 
yond the  Blue  Licks,  to  a  remarkable  bend  of  the  main  fork  of  the  Licking 
River,  about  43  miles  from  Lexington,  where  we  overtook  them  on  the  19th. 
The  savages,  observing  us,  gave  way,  and  we,  ignorant  of  their  numbers,  passed 
the  river.  When  they  saw  our  proceedings,  having  greatly  the  advantage  in 
situation,  they  formed  their  line  of  battle  from  one  end  of  the  Licking  to  the 
other,  about  a  mile  from  the  Blue  Licks.  The  engagement  was  close  and  warm 
for  about  15  minutes,  when  we,  being  overpowered  by  numbers,  were  obliged  to' 
retreat,  with  a  loss  of  67  men,  7  of  whom  were  taken  prisoners.  The  brave  and 
much-lamented  Colonels  Todd  and  Trigg,  Major  Harland,  and  my  second  son, 
were  among  the  dead.  We  were  afterward  informed  that  the  Indians,  on  num- 
bering their  dead,  finding  that  they  had  4  more  killed  than  we,  4  of  our  people, 
they  had  taken,  were  given  up  to  their  youftg  warriors,  to  be  put  to  death  after 
their  barbarous  manner. 


KENTUCKY.  815 

On  our  retreat,  w<&  were  met  by  Colonel  Logan,  who  -was  hastening  to  join  us 
•with  a  number  of  well-armed  men.  This  powerful  assistance  we  wanted  on  the 
day  of  the  battle.  The  enemy  said,  one  more  fire  from  us  would  have  made  them 
give  way. 

I  cannot  reflect  upon  this  dreadful  scene  without  great  sorrow.  A  zeal  for  the 
defence  of  their  country  led  these  heroes  to  the  scene  of  action,  though  with  few 
men,  to  attack  a  powerful  army  of  experienced  warriors.  When  we  gave  way, 
they  pursued  us  with  the  utmost  eagerness,  and  in  every  quarter  spread  destruc- 
tion. The  river  was  difficult  to  cross,  and  many  were  killed  in  the  fight,  some 
just  entering  the  river,  some  in  th.e  water,  others  after  crossing,  in  ascending  the 
cliffs.  Some  escaped  on  horseback,  a  few  on  foot ;  and  being  dispersed  every- 
where, in  a  few  hours  brought  the  melancholy  news  of  this  unfortunate  battle  to 
Lexington.  Many  widows  were  now  made.  The  reader  may  guess  what  sorrow 
filled  the  hearts  of  the  inhabitants,  exceeding  anything  that  I  am  able  to  describe. 
Being  reinforced,  we  returned  to  bury  the  dead,  and  found  their  bodies  strewed 
everywhere,  cut  and  mangled  in  a  dreadful  manner.  This  mournful  scene  ex- 
hibited a  horror  almost  unparalleled  ;  some  torn  and  eaten  by  wild  beasts  ;  those 
in  the  river  by  fishes ;  all  in  such  a  putrid  condition  that  one  could  not  be  dis- 
tinguished from  another. 

When  General  Clarke,  at  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  heard  of  our  disaster,  he  ordered 
an  expedition  to  pursue  the  savages.  We  overtook  them  within  2  miles  of  their 
town,  and  we  should  have  obtained  a  great  victory  had  not  some  of  them  met  us 
when  about  200  poles  from  their  camp.  The  savages  fled  in  the  utmost  disorder, 
and  evacuated  all  their  towns.  We  burned  to  ashes  Old  Chilicothe,  Peccaway, 
New  Chilicothe,  and  Willstown  ;  entirely  destroyed  their  corn  and  other  fruits, 
and  spread  desolation  through  their  country.  We  took  7  prisoners  and  15  scalps, 
and  lost  only  4  men,  2  of  whom  were  accidentally  killed  by  ourselves.  This 
campaign  damped  the  enemy,  yet  they  made  secret  incursions. 

In  October,  a  party  attacked  Crab  Orchard,  and  one  of  them,  being  a  good  way 
before  the  others,  boldly  entered  a  house  in  which  were  only  a  woman  and  her 
children,  and  a  negro  man.  The  savage  used  no  violence,  but  attempted  to  carry 
off  the  negro,  who  happily  proved  too  strong  for  him,  and  threw  him  on  the 
ground,  and  in  the  struggle  the  woman  cut  off  his  head  with  an  axe,  while  her 
little  daughter  shut  the  door.  The  savages  instantly  came  up,  and  applied  their 
tomahawks  to  the  door,  when  the  mother  putting  an  old  rusty  gun-barrel  through 
the  crevice,  the  savages  immediately  went  off. 

From  that  time  till  the  happy  return  of  peace  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain,  the  Indians  did  us  no  mischief.  Soon  after  this,  the  Indians  de- 
sired peace. 

Two  darling  sons  and  a  brother  I  have  lost  by  savage  hands,  which  have  also 
taken  from  me  40  valuable  horses,  and  abundance  of  cattle.  Many  dark  and 
sleepless  nights  have  I  spent,  separated  from  the  cheerful  society  of  men,  scorched 
by  the  summer's  sun,  and  pinched  by  the  winter's  cold,  an  instrument  ordained 
to  settle  the  wilderness.  DANIEL  BOONE. 

Fayette  county,  Kentucky. 


OHIO. 

Area, 39,964  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, .    .    2,339,511 

Population  in  1870, 2,665,260 

THE  State  of  Ohio  is  situated  between  38°  32'  and  42°  K  latitude, 
and  between  80°  35'  and  84°  40'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Michigan  and  Lake  Erie,  on  the  east  by  Pennsylvania 
and  West  Virginia,  on  the  south  by  West  Virginia  and  Kentucky, 
and  on  the  west  by  Indiana.  Its  extreme  length  from  north  to  south 
is  about  200  miles,  and  its  width  about  195  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  centre  of  the  State  is  occupied  by  a  level  country  elevated 
about  1000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  north  central  part 
of  the  State  is  crossed  by  a  ridge  of  hills  which  separate  the  waters 
which  flow  into  Lake  Erie  from  those  which  flow  into  the  Ohio  River. 
A  second  slope  interrupts  the  Ohio  slope  in  the  south  central  part  of 
the  State,  and  from  this  ridge  the  lower  part  of  the  State  is  a  fine 
rugged  country,  which  rises  into  a  range  of  bold  hills  along  the  Ohio 
River.  There  are  some  prairie  lands  in  the  centre  and  northwest, 
and  in  the  latter  portion  is  a  large  tract  of  great  fertility,  called  the 
Black  Swamp,  a  considerable  part  of  which  is  heavily  timbered. 
Much  of  the  country  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Erie  is  marshy. 

Lake  Erie,  already  described,  forms  the  greater  part  of  the  northern 
boundary,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Maumee,  Sandusky,  Huron, 
and  Cuyahoga.  With  the  exception  of  the  Maumee,  which  has  its 
source  in  Indiana,  all  these  streams  rise  in  and  flow  through  this  State. 
The  principal  towns  on  the  lake  are  Cleveland  and  Sandusky.  San- 
816 


OHIO.  8U 

dusky  Bay  extends  inland  for  about  20  miles.  There  are  several  good 
harbors  on  the  lake.  The  Maumee  is  the  only  navigable  river  empty- 
ing into  the  lake.  Steamers  ascend  it  for  18  miles. 

The  Ohio  River  forms  the  greater  part  of  the  eastern,  and  the  whole 
of  the  southern  boundary,  first  touching  the  State  about  50  miles  be- 
low its  head,  and  flows  by  it  for  a  distance  of  about  470  miles.  It  is 
navigable  the  whole  distance  for  large  steamers  for  one-half  of  the 
year.  Its  principal  tributaries,  beginning  on  the  east,  are  the  Mus- 
kingum,  Scioto,  Little  Miami,  and  Miami  rivers.  They  vary  in  length 
from  110  to  200  miles.  The  Muskingum  is  navigable,  by  means  of 
dams  and  locks,  to  Zanesville,  a  distance  of  70  miles.  At  high  water, 
boats  ascend  to  Coshocton,  30  miles  above  Zanesville.  The  others 
are  not  navigable  at  all.  They  flow  through  a  beautiful  and  highly 
productive  country,  and  furnish  an  abundance  of  excellent  water- 
power. 

There  are  several  islands  belonging  to  thivS  State  in  the  southwest 
end  of  Lake  Erie.  The  principal  of  these  is  Kelley's  Island,  which 
produces  a  fine  quality  of  wine. 

MINERALS. 

Coal  and  iron  are  the  principal  minerals  of  the  State.  Salt  springs 
are  numerous,  and  marble  and  lime  are  found  in  large  quantities. 
The  first  two  are  very  abundant,  and  are  of  an  excellent  quality.  In 
1860,  $2,327,621  worth  of  pig-iron  were  produced  in  Ohio,  and 
$1,539,713  worth  of  coal.  This  made  Ohio  the  second  iron  and  coal 
producing  State  in  the  Union. 

CLIMATE. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  the  climate  is  mild.  Snow  does 
not  lie  long  upon  the  ground.  The  climate  of  the  northern  part  is 
rigorous,  and  is  quite  as  severe  as  that  of  the  Atlantic  States  of  the 
same  latitude.  Severe  droughts  sometimes  occur  in  Ohio,  and  cause 
considerable  damage  to  the  crops,  but  they  are  not  of  frequent  occur- 
rence. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  is  fertile,  there  being  very  little  land  in  the  State  that 
cannot  be  brought  under  profitable  cultivation.     Indeed,  it  is  to  the 
extremely  favorable  character  of  her  soil  that  Ohio  owes  her  present 
52 


818  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

proud  position  in  the  Union,  having  grown  and  prospered  more 
rapidly  than  any  other  State.  Sixty  years  ago,  a  vast  forest  covered 
almost  the  entire  country  between  the  Virginia  line  and  Lake  Erie. 
Now  the  same  area  is  occupied  by  one  of  the  most  important  States 
of  the  Union,  possessing  a  population  of  nearly  3,000,000  souls,  and 
ranking  amongst  the  first  members  of  the  Confederacy  in  her  wealth 
and  resources.  Wine  raising  is  now  a  very  important  interest  along 
the  Ohio  River. 

In  1870,  there  were  about  15,000,000  acres  of  improved  lands  in 
the  State.  In  the  same  year,  the  agricultural  statistics,  as  reported 
by  the  Secretary  of  State,  were  as  follows : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 26,499,729 

"           Indian  com, 62,443,346 

"           oats, 24,417,799 

"           barley, 1,689,416 

rye, 852,722 

"           buckwheat, 223,766 

Irish  potatoes, 10,274,605 

u           sweet  potatoes, 119,746 

flax  seed, 611,046 

apples, 15,518,685 

peaches, 1,444,523 

Tons  of  hay, 1,784,947 

"      clover  hay, .    .    . 360,268 

Pounds  of  tobacco, .  15,943,116 

flax, 18,723,377 

butter, 38,783,607 

cheese, 20,520,168 

maple  sugar, 3,302,714 

wool, 19,292,858 

grapes, 3,794,899 

Gallons  of  wine, 155,535 

,u           sorghum  molasses, 1,777,100 

Number  of  horses,    ............  704,664 

u           mules, 22,057 

sheep, 5,052,028 

swine, 1,720,113 

cattle, 1,521,421 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

This  State  possesses  little  foreign  commerce,  but  its  river  and  lake 
trade  is  immense,  and  is  estimated  at  over  $150,000,000  annually. 
The  river  trade  is  the  more  important  part  of  this.  The  number  of 
steamers  entering  and  clearing  from  Cincinnati  is  about  4000  each  way 
annually. 


OHIO.  819 

The  manufactures  of  this  State,  though  still  in  their  infancy,  are 
growing  in  importance.  In  1860,  Ohio  contained  10,710  establish- 
ments devoted  to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  They 
employed  a  capital  of  $58,000,000,  and  81,200  hands,  consuming 
raw  material  worth  $70,000,000,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of 
$125,000,000,  making  this  the  third  State  in  the  Union  in  respect  to 
the  value  of  goods  produced.  The  principal  products  were  valued 
as  follows: 

Cotton  goods, $629,500  . 

Woollen  goods, 692,333 

Leather, 2,799,239 

Rolled  iron, 692,000 

Steam  engines  and  machinery,       4,855,005 

Agricultural  implements, 2,690,943 

Sawed  and  planed  lumber,    ........  5,600,000 

Flour, 27,130,000 

Salt, 277,000 

Liquors, .     .    .  6,109,000 

Boots  and  shoes, 3,623,827 

Furniture, 3,703,005 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  Ohio  contained  3740  miles  of  completed  railroads,  con- 
structed at  a  cost  of  $135,332,000,  ranking  second  in  the  list  of  States 
with  respect  to  the  total  length  of  its  roads,  and  fourth  with  respect 
to  their  cost.  The  State  is  a  perfect  network  of  railways,  no  town  or 
village  being  more  than  a  few  miles  from  a  railroad  depot.  Direct 
lines  lead  from  all  the  points  of  importance  to  the  principal  cities  of 
the  Union.  The  energy  and  foresight  displayed  by  the  State  in  the 
construction  of  these  roads  have  greatly  added  to  its  wealth  and 
prosperity. 

Ohio  was  the  first  Western  State  to  engage  in  the  construction  of 
canals.  In  1860,  there  were  956  miles  of  canal  navigation  in  the 
State.  In  spite  of  the  abundance  of  railroad  transportation,  the  canals 
of  Ohio  still  continue  to  occupy  an  important  position  in  the  com- 
merce of  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

Ohio  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  States  in  the  Union  in  respect  to» 
its  educational  system.  Schools  were  established  in  this  State  soon 
after  its  first  settlement,  and  in  1804,  the  University  of  Ohio  was 
founded  at  Athens.  In  1867,  there  were  26  colleges,  with  4783 


820  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

students ;  43  female  seminaries,  with  4217  students ;  65  academies  and 
normal  schools,  with  6167  pupils;  and  647  private  schools,  with 
26,450  pupils.  In  1870,  there  were  11,401  public  schools,  with 
719,902  pupils.  The  State  has  a  permanent  school  fund,  amounting 
to  $3,334,500.  The  interest  of  this  is  applied  to  the  schools,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  sum  needed  for  them  each  year  made  up  by  taxes, 
fines,  licences,  etc.  In  1870,  the  amount  expended  on  .the  schools 
was  $4,960,771. 

The  general  supervision  of  the  free  school  system  of  the  State  is 
vested  in  a  Commissioner  of  Schools,  who  is  elected  by  the  people  for 
three  years.  The  cities,  towns,  and  incorporated  villages  are  controlled 
each  by  a  local  Board  of  Education  chosen  by  the  people  thereof.  A 
State  Board  of  Examiners  alone  has  power  to  grant  certificates  of 
competency  to  teachers.  These  certificates,  unless  revoked  by  the 
Board,  are  good  for  the  lifetime  of  the  holder. 

In  1870,  the  State  contained  17,790  libraries,  with  3,687,383  vol- 
umes. Of  these  4374  were  private  libraries. 

In  the  same  year  there  were  271  political,  38  religious,  and  86  mis- 
cellaneous newspapers  and  periodicals  published  in  Ohio,  making  a 
total  of  395.  Of  these  26  were  daily,  3  semi-weekly,  8  tri-weekly, 
299  weekly,  47  monthly,  and  3  annual.  They  had  an  annual  aggre- 
gate circulation  of  98,548,814  copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  public  institutions  are  under  the  supervision  of  a  Board  of 
State  Charities. 

The  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Columbus.  It  is  one  of  the  best  in- 
stitutions of  its  kind  in  the  Union,  and  is  provided  with  handsome 
and  commodious  buildings.  There  is  a  school  attached  to  the  prison, 
in  which  the  convicts  are  taught  the  rudiments  of  a  plain  education. 
The  proceeds  of  the  labor  of  the  prisoners  more  than  supports  the 
institution,  rendering  it  inexpensive  to  the  State.  In  1866,  there 
were  860  convicts  confined  here. 

The  Ohio  Reform  School  is  located  in  Fairfield  county,  six  miles 
.south  of  Lancaster.  It  is  provided  with  ample  buildings,  and  a  farm 
of  1170  acres.  It  is  considered  one  of  the  most  perfect  establishments 
in  the  Union.  In  1870,  it  contained  335  boys. 

The  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Blind,  and  the  Institution 
for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  are  located  at  Columbus. 


OHIO.  821 

In  November,  1870,  the  former  contained  119  pupils,  and  the  latter 
312  pupils. 

There  are  three  Lunatic  Asylums  in  the  State ;  the  Central  Ohio 
Asylum,  at  Columbus;  the  Northern  Ohio  Asylum,  at  Newburgh;  and 
the  Southern  Ohio  Asylum,  at  Day  toil.  The  first  was  destroyed  by 
fire  on  the  17th  of  November,  1868,  and  six  of  the  patients  perished 
in  the  flames.  The  remaining  institutions,  in  1870,  contained  878 
patients.  In  the  same  year  there  were  in  the  county  infirmaries  and 
jails  1176  insane  persons.  The  Asylum  for  Idiots  contains  170 
patients. 

KELIGIOUS  DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  6284  churches  in  Ohio,  and  the  value  of  church 


\ 


property  was  $25,554,725. 

FINANCES. 

In  January,  1871,  the  State  debt  amounted  to  $9,752,136.  During 
the  year  1870,  the  receipts  of  the  Treasury  were  $4,837,990,  and  the 
expenditures  $4,071,953. 

In  the  same  year  there  were  139  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of 
$22,573,881,  doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  white  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  21  years  old,  who 
has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  is  entitled  to  vote.  Persons  in  the 
military  or  naval  service  of  the  United  States,  idiots,  and  insane 
persons  are  excluded  from  the  ballot. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieu  tenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor,  Comptroller,  and  Attorney- 
General,  and  a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  and  a  House  of 
Representatives,  all  chosen  by  the  people.  The  Governor,  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  Treasurer,  Secretary  of  State,  and  Attorney-General,  and 
members  of  the  Legislature  are  elected  for  two  years.  The  Comp- 
troller and  Auditor  are  elected  for  four  years.  There  is  also  a  Board 
of  Public  Works,  consisting  of  3  members,  elected  for  3  yearsr  one 
member  retiring  each  year. 

The  courts  of  the  State  are  the  Supreme  Court,  consisting  of  five 
judges,  elected  by  the  people,  the  judge  with  the  shortest  term  being 
the  Chief  Justice,  the  Courts  of  Common  Pleas,  District  Courts,  and 
Probate  Courts  in  each  county. 


822  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Columbus. 
The  State  is  divided  into  88  counties. 


HISTORY. 

The  territory  now  embraced  in  the  State  of  Ohio  was  first  settled 
by  the  English,  who,  in  1749,  built  a  trading-post  upon  the  Great 
Miami  River.  Previous  to  this,  the  French  had  explored  the  terri- 
tory, and  had  established  a  trading-post  on  the  lower  Ohio,  at  a  point 
within  the  present  limits  of  the  State  of  Illinois.  They  were  jealous 
of  the  establishment  of  the  English  post  on  the  Miami,  and  incited 
the  Indians  to  join  in  an  attack  upon  it.  They  destroyed  it  in  1752, 
after  a  severe  fight,  and  carried  the  traders  into  captivity  in  Canada. 
For  some  years  the  territory  was  in  dispute,  between  the  French  and 
English.  The  Ohio  Company  claimed  the  right,  under  the  charter, 
which  they  held  from  the  English  king,  to  establish  trading-posts 
along  the  Ohio,  and  the  French  were  very  active  in  their  efforts  to 
put  a  stop  to  the  advances  of  their  English  rivals.  It  was  this  quarrel 
which  first  brought  Washington  forward  as  a  military  leader.  The 
territory  was  inhabited  by  Indian  tribes,  who  were  friendly  to  the 
French,  and  hostile  to  the  English.  They  made  frequent  incursions 
across  the  Ohio  against  the  settlements  of  the  whites  in  Virginia,  and 
were  in  their  turn -frequently  attacked  in  their  own  homes  by  the 
English.  Daring  the  Revolution,  they  were  the  allies  of  the  British, 
and  waged  a  bitter  warfare  upon  the  western  settlements  of  the  Ameri- 
cans. This  gave  rise  to  several  memorable  campaigns  by  the  Ameri- 
can forces  west  of  the  Ohio,  in  which  the  savages  were  severely 
punished. 

After  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  several  of  the  States  be- 
came involved  in  disputes  as  to  the  right  of  soil  in  this  territory,  which 
were  only  settled  by  the  cession  of  all  the  State  claims  to  the  United 
States.  Virginia,  in  ceding  her  claims,  reserved  nearly  four  millions 
of  acres,  near  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  as  bounty  lands  for  her  State 
troops,  and  Connecticut  reserved  a  similar  tract,  near  Lake  Erie, 
which  was  sold  to  actual  settlers.  The  sales  of  these  lands  laid  the 
foundation  of  the  school  fund  of  Connecticut. 

In  1788,  the  town  of  Marietta  was  founded  by  the  New  England 
Ohio  Company,  who  purchased  the  lands  on  which  they  located  their 
emigrants,  from  the  United  States  Board  of  Treasury.  In  1791,  the 
town  of  Gallipolis  was  settled  by  168  French  emigrants.  Other  set- 


OHIO.  823 

tiers  now  came  out,  and  the  territory  commenced  to  assume  the  cha- 
racter of  a  permanent  settlement. 

The  Indians  had  by  this  time  become  very  troublesome.  General 
Harmar  was  sent  against  them  with  a  considerable  force,  in  1790, 
but,  although  he  inflicted  considerable  damage  upon  them,  did  not 
succeed  in  intimidating  them.  In  1791,  General  St.  Clair,  the  Gov- 
ernor of  the  Territory,  marched  against  the  Indian  towns  on  the 
Maumee,  with  a  force  of  3000  men.  He  was  surprised  by  the  savages 
on  his  march,  and  his  whole  army  routed,  after  a  desperate  struggle, 
with  a  loss  of  more  than  600  men.  In  1794,  General  Anthony  Wayne, 
of  Revolutionary  fame,  was  sent  into  the  Indian  country  with  a  force 
of  3500  men.  On  the  20th  of  August,  he  inflicted  a  crushing  defeat 
upon  them  at  the  falls  of  the  Maumee.  After  this  he  ravaged  their 
country,  and  pressed  them  so  hard  that  they  were  glad  to  sue  for 
peace,  and  for  some  years  the  territory  was  free  from  hostilities. 

By  this  time  Cincinnati  had  been  settled,  and  the  country  along  the 
southwestern  shore  of  Lake  Erie  was  beginning  to  attract  emigrants. 
The  Miami  country  was  thickly  populated,  and  the  shores  of  the  Ohio 
were  beginning  to  be  dotted  with  farms. 

In  1799,  the  first  Territorial  Legislature  assembled.  Laws  were 
passed  confirming  all  that  had  been  done  by  the  Governor,  and  pro- 
viding for  the  future  security  of  the  Territory.  William  Henry  Har- 
rison, then  Secretary  of  the  Territory,  was  chosen  a  delegate  to  Con- 
gress. Measures  were  begun  and  vigorously  prosecuted,  during  the 
next  two  years,  for  the  purpose  of  securing  the  admission  of  the  Ter- 
ritory into  the  Union.  These  efforts  were  crowned  with  success. 
Early  in  1802,  a  Convention  met  at  Chillicothe,  and  adopted  a  State 
Constitution,  which  was  accepted  by  Congress,  and  on  the  30th  of 
April,  1802,  Ohio  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  sovereign  State. 

In  1810,  war  broke  out  with  the  Indians,  who,  under  the  leadership 
of  the  famous  chief  Tecumseh,  began  a  series  of  bloody  outrages  upon 
the  whites.  General  Harrison,  then  Governor  of  the  Territory  of 
Indiana,  marched  against  them  and  defeated  them  in  the  battle  of 
Tippecanoe,  in  1811.  During  the  second  war  with  England,  the 
western  frontiers  suffered  greatly  from  the  British  and  Indians.  Ohio 
bore  her  full  share  in  the  struggle,  and  her  sons  were  amongst  the 
first  to  volunteer  for  service  against  the  common  foe. 

In  1816,  the  seat  of  Government  was  transferred  from  Chillicothe 
to  Columbus,  and,  in  1817,  the  first  steps  were  taken  by  the  State  for 
the  construction  of  the  canals  which  have  added  so  much  to  her 
wealth. 


824 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


STATE  CAPITOL,  AT  COLUMBUS. 

After  the  treaty  of  1815,  the  State  grew  with  unparalleled  rapidity. 
We  have  already  shown  the  condition  of  Ohio  at  present,  and  can 
add  nothing  to  the  simple  statement  that  this  great  and  flourishing 
commonwealth  but  little  more  than  half  a  century  ago  was  "  a  howling 
wilderness." 

During  the  Rebellion  this  state  contributed  317,133  men  to  the 
service  of  the  United  States. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  Ohio  are, 
Cincinnati,  Cleveland,  Dayton,  Toledo  City,  Zanesville,  Sandusky, 
Chillicothe,  Hamilton,  Springfield,  Portsmouth,  Steubenville,  Brook- 
lyn, Newark,  Xenia,  Piqua,  Mansfield,  Circleville,  Marietta,  Lancaster 
City,  Mount  Yernon,  and  Canton. 

COLUMBUS, 

The  capital  and  fourth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Franklin 
county,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Scioto  River,  90  miles  from  its  mouth, 
120  miles  northeast  of  Cincinnati,  and  350  miles  northwest  of  Wash- 
ington. Latitude  39°  57'  N. ;  longitude  83°  3'  W. 


OHIO.  825 

The  land  on  which  the  city  is  built  rises  gradually  from  the  river, 
and  the  streets  are  laid  out  at  right-angles.  Broad  street  extends  from 
the  river  along  the  National  Road  to  the  east  of  the  city,  and  is  120 
feet  wide ;  and  High  street,  100  feet  wide,  crosses  Broad  at  right-angles. 
This  is  the  principal  business  street.  At  the  intersection  of  the  two 
thoroughfares  is  a  handsome  public  square  of  10  acres.  The 'streets 
are  shaded  with  trees,  and  are  well  paved.  Street  railways  connect 
the  various  points  of  the  corporate  limits.  The  city  is  well  built,  and 
many  of  the  buildings  are  handsome  and  spacious. 

The  State  Capitol  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  public  square.  It  is 
a  splendid  edifice,  304  feet  long  by  184  feet  wide.  It  is  built  of  a 
fine  white  limestone  resembling  marble.  The  interior  decorations  are 
very  fine.  The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  immediately  upon  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  is  built  of  Ohio  marble.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
imposing  structures  in  the  State.  The  State  Institution  for  the  Blind, 
the  Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum,  and  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  are 
handsome  buildings. 

The  city  contains  a  number  of  public  and  private  schools.  The 
Starling  Medical  College  is  a  flourishing  institution.  The  Lutheran 
Church  has  a  theological  seminary  here.  There  are  about  26  churches 
and  several  newspaper  offices  in  Columbus.  The  city  is  lighted  with 
gas  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  It  is  one  of  the  principal  railway  centres  of  the  State,  and 
is  the  seat  of  a  large  and  active  trade  with  the  surrounding  country. 
In  1870,  the  population  was  31,274. 

In  1812,  Columbus  was  selected  as  the  site  of  the  State  capital.  At 
this  time  it  was  a  wilderness,  but  it  grew  rapidly  from  the  first,  but 
was  still  a  small  inland  village  when  the  State  Government  was  re- 
moved to  it  in  1816.  In  1820,  it  had  1400  inhabitants.  The  com- 
pletion of  the  National  Road  to  the  city  brought  it  into  more  direct 
communication  with  the  rest  of  the  country,  and  greatly  accelerated 
its  growth. 

CINCINNATI, 

The  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Hamilton  county,  on  the 
right  or  northern  bank  of  the  Ohio,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Licking 
River.  It  is  120  miles  southwest  of  Columbus,  476  miles  by  water 
from  Pittsburg,  529  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  1520  miles 
from  New  Orleans,  280  miles  southeast  of  Chicago,  and  610  miles 
west  of  Washington.  It  is  the  eighth  city  in  respect  of  population  in 
the  United  States,  and  the  third  city  in  the  West. 


826  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  city  is  beautifully  located.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  a  lovely  val- 
ley, surrounded  by  hills.  It  occupies  the  whole  of  the  first  and 
second  planes  above  the  Ohio  River,  and  extends  over  the  greater  part 
of  the  third,  or  still  higher  elevations  of  Mount  Adams,  Mount  Au- 
burn, Mount  Washington,  etc.  The  first  of  these  planes  or  tables, 
called  "  the  bottom,"  is  at  an  elevation  of  50  feet  above  low-water 
mark ;  the  second,  called  "the  hill,"  about  60  feet  higher,  and  is  densely 
built  upon,  being  the  thickest  settled  portion  of  the  city.  Above  this 
are  the  hills  of  Mount  Auburn,  etc.,  200  feet  higher.  Viewed  from 
one  of  these  last  hills,  the  city  appears  to  occupy  the  centre  of  an  im- 
mense basin,  the  view  being  in  every  direction  terminated  by  swelling 
hills.  The  grade  of  these  planes  or  terraces  has  for  years  been 
changing  to  conform  to  the  general  improvement  of  the  city,  and 
now  affords  the  regular  and  facile  ascent  required  by  heavy  draughts, 
as  well  as  to  permit  the  safe  drainage  of  water  from  the  upper  ter- 
races of  the  city. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  crossing  each  other  at 
right- angles.  They  are  generally  about  66  feet  in  width  ;  are  well 
graded  and  paved,  and  are  in  many  cases  lined  with  beautiful  shade 
trees.  Those  running  east  and  west  are  denominated  Water,  Front, 
Columbia,  Pearl,  Third,  Fourth,  etc. ;  while  those  running  north  and 
south  are  named  Broadway,  Sycamore,  Main,  Walnut,  Western 
Row,  etc.  Main  street  extends  from  the  steamboat  landing  on  the 
river  northwardly  to  the  northern  bound  of  the  second  plane.  The 
steamboat  landing  covers  an  open  area  of  about  10  acres,  with  a  front- 
age of  1000  feet.  The  shore  is  paved  from  low- water  mark,  and  is 
provided  with  wharfboats  or  floating  wharves,  which  rise  and  fall 
with  the  river;  in  the  height  of  which  there  is  a  great  variation,  the 
mean  annual  range  from  high  to  low  water  being  about  50  feet.  Pearl 
street,  parallel  with  the  river,  is  the  great  jobbing  mart.  Fourth 
street  is  the  "  Fifth  Avenue "  of  the  town,  a  long,  wide,  elegant, 
fashionable  promenade  upon  the  crown  of  the  First  Terrace,  follow- 
ing the  course  of  the  river.  Fifth  street  contains  the  markets,  and 
displays  a  scene  of  busy  life  through  an  extent  of  three  or  four 
miles. 

Cincinnati  Is  one  of  the  best  built  cities  in  the  country,  and  in  its 
business  portions  especially  will  compare  favorably  with  any  Ameri- 
can city.  The  improvement  in  this  respect  has  been  very  marked 
during  the  last  ten  years.  Many  handsome  residences  lie  within  the 
city  limits,  and  in  the  suburbs.  The  suburb  of  Clifton  is  one  of  the 


ItlliM 


OHIO. 


827 


VIEW  ON  FOURTH  STREET,    CINCINNATI. 

handsomest  villages  in  the  Union.  As  in  all  western  cities,  how- 
ever, the  buildings  soon  become  tarnished  and  blackened  by  the  coal 
smoke,  the  coal  burned  here  being  very  soft,  and  throwing  off  a  dense, 
black  smoke. 

The  public  buildings  give  evidence  of  the  rapid  growth  in  wealth 
and  importance  of  the  city.  The  material  generally  employed  in  the 
best  buildings  is  a  fine  freestone  or  sandstone,  though  white  limestone 
is  used  to  some  extent.  The  Court  House  is  a  handsome  edifice  of 
white  limestone,  resembling  marble.  It  cost  $500,000.  The  City 
Hall,  the  Custom  House,  the  Melodeon  Hall,  Mozart  Hall,  and  the 
Masonic  Hall,  are  the  other  prominent  structures.  The  colleges, 
churches,  and  benevolent  establishments  of  the  city  are  among  its 
principal  ornaments. 

The  schools  are  numerous,  and  are  of  a  high  character.  There  are 
a  number  of  flourishing  private  schools  and  seminaries,  and  about  22 
public  schools,  including  two  high  schools  in  operation.  The  Col- 
lege of  St.  Xavier,  the  Lane  Theological  Seminary  (Presbyterian), 
the  Fairmount  Theological  Seminary,  the  Wesleyan  Female  College, 


828  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  the  Woodward  and  Eclectic  Medical  Colleges  are  the  principal 
institutions  of  the  higher  class. 

The  Benevolent  Institutions  are,  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Commer- 
cial Hospital,  the  Cincinnati,  St.  Peter's,  St.  Aloysius,  and  West  Ger- 
man Protestant  Orphan  Asylums,  the  Widow's  Home,  the  Asylum  for 
Indigent  Females,  the  House  of  Refuge,  the  Hotel  for  Invalids,  the 
Longview  Asylum,  and  the  Almshouse.  They  are  among  the  best 
arranged  and  most  efficient  institutions  in  the  country. 

There  are  9  public  libraries  in  Cincinnati,  two  of  which  are  German. 
The  Cincinnati  Observatory  is  located  on  Mount  Adams,  and  forms  a 
conspicuous  object  in  any  view  of  the  city.  It  was  built  by  the  volun- 
tary contributions  of  the  citizens,  the  grounds  being  the  gift  of  the 
late  Nicholas  Longworth.  Under  the  management  of  the  late  Pro- 
fessor Mitchell  it  was  raised  to  a  high  degree  of  excellence  and  useful- 
ness. 

The  city  contains  4  first-class  hotels,  about  110  churches,  4  theatres, 
about  56  newspapers  and  periodicals,  8  of  which  are  daily,  and  several 
large  publishing  houses.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with 
pure  water  from  the  Ohio  River.  Street  railways  connect  its  various 
portions,  and  it  possesses  an  efficient  police  force,  a  police  and  fire- 
alarm  telegraph,  and  a  steam  fire  department.  This  city  built  the 
first  steam  fire-engine  ever  used  in  America.  The  city  is  governed 
by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population  was  216,239. 

The  Ohio  is  crossed  at  Cincinnati  by  a  magnificent  suspension 
bridge,  uniting  Cincinnati  with  Covington,  Kentucky,  begun  in  1856, 
and  completed  in  1867.  The  entire  length  of  the  bridge  is  2252 
feet ;  the  distance  between  the  towers  1057  feet ;  height  of  the  towers 
230  feet;  elevation  of  the  floor  at  the  middle  100  feet  above  low-water 
mark.  The  entire  cost  of  the  bridge  was  over  $1,500,000.  It  is 
traversed  by  a  street  railway,  connecting  Cincinnati  and  Covington. 
It  is  an  imposing  and  massive 'structure,  and  a  great  ornament  to  the 
city. 

There  are  10  cemeteries  in  the  vicinity,  the  principal  of  which  is 
the  Spring  Grove  Cemetery,  a  very  beautiful  "  city  of  the  dead." 

Besides  its  river  connections,  Cincinnati  has  direct  communication 
by  railway  with  all  parts  of  the  State  and  Union.  The  Miami  Canal 
connects  it  with  Lake  Erie,  furnishing  also  excellent  water-power  for 
manufacturing  purposes.  Nine  lines  of  railway  enter  the  city,  and 
through  trains  run  from  Cincinnati  to  all  important  points  east  and 
west, 


OHIO. 


829 


Hinni: 
ffllt 


THE    TYLER   DAVIDSON   FOUNTAIN. 


The  river  trade  of  Cincinnati  is  enormous,  and  is  on  the  increase 
in  spite  of  the  activity  of  the  various  railway  lines.  During  the  year 
ending  August  31,  1864,  435  steamboats  and  barges  were  engaged  in 
this  trade,  or  about  121  more  than  were  employed  in  1854.  In  the 
same  year  the  arrivals  of  steamers  numbered  2936,  though  the  trade 
with  the  Lower  Mississippi  and  New  Orleans  was  destroyed  by  the 
war.  Since  the  close  of  the  war,  and  the  opening  of  the  Mississippi 
trade,  the  city  has  resumed  its  full  share  in  this  source  of  wealth. 

Cincinnati  ranks  next  to  Chicago  a%a  pork  market  of  the  Republic. 
An  English  writer,  who  visited  Cincinnati  a  few  years  ago,  humorously 
says  of  this  branch  of  its  industry : 

"  The  great  business  of  Cincinnati  is  hog  killing  now,  as  it  used  to 
be  in  the  old  days  of  which  I  have  so  often  heard.  It  seems  to  be  an 
established  fact  that  in  this  portion  of  the  world  the  porcine  genus  are 
all  hogs.  One  never  hears  of  a  pig.  With  us  a  trade  in  hogs  and 
pigs  is  subject  to  some  little  contumely.  There  is  a  feeling,  which 
has  perhaps  never  been  expressed  in  words,  but  which  certainly  exists, 
that  these  animals  are  not  so  honorable  in  their  bearings  as  sheep 


830  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  oxen.  It  is  a  prejudice  which  by  no  means  exists  in  Cincinnati. 
There  hog  killing  and  salting  and  packing  is  very  honorable,  and  the 
great  men  in  the  trade  are  the  merchant  princes  of  the  city.  I  went 
to  see  the  performance,  feeling  it  to  be  a  duty  to  inspect  everywhere 
that  which  I  found  to  be  of  most  importance  ;  but  I  will  not  describe 
it.  There  were  a  crowd  of  men  operating,  and  I  was  told  that  the 
point  of  honor  was  to  '  put  through '  a  hog  a  minute.  It  must  be 
understood  that  the  animal  enters  upon  the  ceremony  alive,  and  comes 
out  in  that  cleanly,  disemboweled  guise  in  which  it  may  sometimes  be 
seen  hanging  up  previous  to  the  operation  of  the  pork  butcher's  knife. 
To  one  special  man  was  appointed  a  performance  which  seemed  to  be 
specially  disagreeable,  so  that  he  appeared  despicable  in  my  eyes;  but 
when  on  inquiry  I  learned  that  he  earned  five  dollars  (or  a  pound 
sterling)  a  day,  my  judgment  as  to  his  position  was  reversed.  And, 
after  all,  what  matters  the  ugly  nature  of  such  an  occupation  when  a 
man  is  used  to  it  ?  " 

Upwards  of  40  houses  are  engaged  in  this  trade.  About  700,000 
hogs  are  annually  killed  and  packed  here.  The  value  of  the  annual 
product  of  these  houses  in  pork  and  lard  is  estimated  at  about 
$8,000,000. 

The  city  is  largely  engaged  in  manufactures.  There  are  numerous 
iron  and  brass  founderies,  machine  shops,  flouring  mills,  manufacto- 
ries of  furniture,  of  lard  and  stearine  oil,  and  of  candles,  distilleries, 
and  wine  factories.  Considerable  quantities  of  clothing,  tobacco,  and 
wagons  are  also  made  here.  The  hills  of  the  Ohio  above  and  below 
the  city  are  lined  with  extensive  vineyards,  which  produce  large  quan- 
tities of  wine,  which  finds  a  market  in  the  city.  The  vineyard  and 
wine  cellars  of  the  late  Mr.  Longworth  are  well  known  throughout 
the  country. 

In  1864,  the  total  exports  of  the  city  amounted  to  $239,079- 
825;  and  the  imports  to  $389,790,537.  The  principal  articles 
of  export  were  valued  as  follows:  merchandise,  $85,973,400 ;  cotton, 
$34,973,840;  tobacco,  $22,286,485;  whiskey,  $10,520,500;  horses, 
$8,523,847 ;  sugar,  $6,790,054 ;  oil,  $5,610,580  ;  candles,  $3,043,768 ; 
flour,  $2,556,242;  hemp,  $2,363,760;  and  furniture,  $2,154,075. 

The  cities  of  Covington  and  Newport  lie  on  the  Kentucky  shore, 
immediately  opposite  Cincinnati. 

Cincinnati  was  first  settled  on  the  26th  of  December,  1788,  by  a 
party  of  men  under  Matthias  Denman  and  Robert  Paterson,  sent  out 
to  improve  a  portion  of  the  purchase  made  by  the  Hon.  John  Cleves 


OHIO.  831 

Symmes.  This  purchase  embraced  a  tract  of  311,682  acres,  lying  be- 
tween the  Great  and  Little  Miami  rivers,  and  extending  along  the 
Ohio  River  for  a  distance  of  37  miles.  This  party  landed  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Licking  River,  and  laid  out  a  village  called  Losan- 
tiville,  a  name  shortly  abandoned  for  that  of  Cincinnati.  In  Feb- 
ruary, 1789,  Judge  Symmes  himself  arrived  with  another  party,  and, 
landing  at  North  Bend,  laid  out  what  was  designed  to  be  a  large  city, 
to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Symmes.  This  site  is  now  marked 
by  the  village  of  Cleves.  In  a  short  while  a  detachment  of  United 
States  troops  was  sent  to  the  Bend  to  protect  the  settlers  there.  Fort 
Washington  had  been  built  at  Cincinnati  by  this  time,  however,  and 
the  troops  were  removed  thither  soon  after  their  arrival  at  the  Bend, 
and  in  a  short  while  Symmes  was  compelled  to  yield  its  pretensions  to 
Cincinnati.  In  1790,  the  expedition  of  General  Harrison  against  the 
Indians  rendezvoused  at  and  began  its  march  from  Fort  Washington, 
which  was  also  the  starting  point  of  the  ill-fated  expedition  of  St. 
Clair,  in  1791.  In  1792,  the  first  (Presbyterian)  church  was  erected, 
on  what  is  now  the  corner  of  Main  and  Fourth  streets.  In  1793,  the 
first  newspaper,  "The  Sentinel  of  the  Northwest  Territory,"  was  es- 
tablished. In  January,  1794,  a  line  of  two  keel  boats,  with  bullet- 
proof covers  and  portholes,  and  provided  with  cannon  and  small  arms, 
was  established  between  Pittsburg  and  Cincinnati,  each  making  a  trip 
once  in  four  weeks.  During  this  time  the  town  progressed  very 
slowly.  With  the  opening  of  the  present  century  a  change  for  the 
better  set  in,  and  its  growth  became  marked  and  rapid.  The  intro- 
duction of  steam  navigation  placed  in  its  hands  the  enormous  river 
trade,  which  it  has  since  retained.  In  1819,  it  was  incorporated  as 
a  city.  Its  progress  since  its  settlement  is  shown  by  the  following 
table : 

Year.  Population. 

1795, 500 

1800, 750 

1810, 2,540 

1820, 9,602 

1830, 24,831 

1840, 46,338 

1850, 115,436 

1860,  .     .     .     .  • .  171,000 

1870, 216,239 

The  city  contains  a  large  German  population,  the  district  mainly 
inhabited  by  them  being  known  as  "  Over  the  Rhine.'* 


832  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

CLEVELAND, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Cuyahoga  county,  on  the 
southern  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  at  the  mouth  of  Cuyahoga  River,  135 
miles  east-northeast  of  Columbus,  255  miles  northeast  of  Cincinnati, 
and  195  miles  by  water  southwest  of  Buffalo. 

The  city  is  beautifully  located  on  an  elevated  gravelly  plain  over- 
looking the  lake,  at  an  elevation  of  from  60  to  100  feet  above  it.  The 
Cuyahoga  River  flows  through  the  city,  its  tortuous  course  adding  to 
the  picturesque  character  of  the  scenery  and  affording  an  excellent 
harbor  for  several  miles.  From  various  points  excellent  views  are  ob- 
tained of  the  lake,  which  in  summer  seems  a  shoreless  sea  studded 
with  the  white  sails  of  vessels,  and  in  the  winter  resembles  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  being  a  vast  solitude  of  ice. 

Cleveland  is  justly  considered  one  of  the  handsomest  American 
cities.  It  is  regularly  laid  off,  the  streets,  with  a  few  exceptions, 
intersecting  each  other  at  right-angles.  They  are  generally  from  80 
to  120  feet  wide,  and  are  so  thickly  shaded  with  maple  trees — with 
the  exception  of  the  heavy  business  streets — that  Cleveland  has  been 
named  "  The  Forest  City."  In  the  centre  of  the  city  is  a  handsome 
public  square  of  10  acres,  in  which  stands  a  marble  statue  of  Commo- 
dore Perry,  the  hero  of  Lake  Erie.  The  Nicholson  or  wooden  pave- 
ment is  used  on  all  the  principal  streets.  Superior  street  is  the  prin- 
cipal shopping  thoroughfare,  and  contains  the  hotels.  River  and  Mer- 
win  streets,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  are  the  heavy  business 
streets;  and  Euclid  and  Prospect  streets  are  the  favorite  localities 
for  residence.  They  are  beautiful  avenues,  and  are  lined  with  hand- 
some dwellings. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are,  the  United  Stcttes  Building,  con- 
taining the  Custom  House,  Post  Office,  and  United  States  Court; 
the  United  States  Marine  Hospital ;  the  County  Court  House;  the 
City  Police  Court  and  Prison,  and  the  County  Jail.  These  are  built 
of  stone.  The  public  schools  of  Cleveland  have  long  been  noted  for 
their  excellence.  There  are  about  74  in  all,  including  2  high  schools. 
Besides  these,  there  are  a  number  of  private  schools  and  seminaries 
in  the  city.  The  principal  establishments  of  the  higher  class  are,  the 
Cleveland  Medical  College,  Charity  Hospital  Medical  College,  and  the 
Homoeopathic  Medical  College,a\\  of  which  are  flourishing  institutions. 
The  Cleveland  Library  Association  possesses  a  fine  library,  and  holds 
an  annual  course  of  lectures. 


OHIO. 


833 


TE III  Oil 


IlEET,    CLEVELAND. 


There  are  about  32  benevolent  societies  in  the  city.  The  principal 
establishments  are,  the  United  States  Marine  Hospital;  the  Cleveland 
Orphan  Asylum;  3  Roman  Catholic  orphan  asylums ;  the  Home  of  the 
Friendless  (Episcopal);  the  City  Infirmary;  the  House  of  Refuge; 
the  Charity  Hospital. 

Fourteen  newspapers,  5tof  which  are  daily,  and  9  magazines,  are 
published  in  Cleveland.  The  city  contains  about  43  churches,  and  7 
hotels.  It  is  lighted  with  gas  and  is  supplied  with  water,  which  is 
forced  by  steam  from  Lake  Erie  into  an  elevated  reservoir,  from  which 
it  is  distributed  through  the  city.  It  is  provided  with  an  efficient 
police  force,  a  police  and  fire  alarm  telegraph,  a  steam  fire-engine  de- 
partment, and  a  system  of  street  railways.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor 
and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  92,829. 

The  position  of  Cleveland  on  Lake  Erie  has  placed  it  in  possession 
of  an  important  trade.  It  is  next  to  Buffalo  the  most  important  port 
on  the  lake.  The  harbor  is  good,  and  has  been  greatly  improved  by 
the  United  States  Government.  During  the  season  of  navigation 
daily  lines  of  passenger  steamers  ply  between  Cleveland  and  the  Lake 
Superior  ports,  and  about  20  lines  of  steam  propellers  maintain  a 
busy  trade  with  the  principal  towns  on  all  the  great  lakes.  There  is 
direct  communication  between  Cleveland  and  Liverpool,  England,  by 
53 


834  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

sailing  vessels,  via  the  lakes,  the  Welland  Canal  and  the  St.  Lawrence. 
The  lake  trade  is  very  large  and  valuable,  and  is  increasing.  The 
Ohio  Canal  connects  the  lake  with  the  Ohio  River  at  Portsmouth, 
and,  by  means  of  a  branch  at  Beaver,  seven  lines  of  railway,  one 
leading  direct  to  the  oil  regions  of  Pennsylvania,  connect  the  city 
with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  These  have  added  greatly  to  its  trade. 
The  lake  trade  alone  is  estimated  at  about  $225,000,000  per  annum. 

Cleveland  is  largely  engaged  in  ship-building.  Many  vessels  have 
been  constructed  here  for  ocean  service  as  well  as  for  the  lake  trade. 
The  manufactures  of  the  city  are  growing  rapidly.  It  is  especially 
favored  in  this  respect,  owing  to  its  proximity  to  the  coal  fields,  its 
daily  receipts  from  the  mines,  and  its  great  facilities  for  distributing 
its  products  over  the  country.  Iron,  machinery,  nails,  copper,  wooden 
ware,  paper,  furniture,  woollen  goods,  flour,  oil,  and  beer  are  the  prin- 
cipal articles.  The  surrounding  country  is  the  famous  Western  Re- 
serve, one  of  the  richest  dairy  regions  in  the  West,  and  its  products 
find  a  market  in  this  city. 

Cleveland  was  the  first  settlement  within  the  limits  of  Cuyahoga 
county.  It  was  laid  out  in  October,  1796,  and  was  named  in  honor 
of  General  Moses  Cleveland,  a  native  of  Connecticut.  In  1836,  it  was 
incorporated  as  a  city.  In  1840,  it  contained  but  6071  inhabitants. 

DAYTON, 

The  fifth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Montgomery  county,  on  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  Great  Miami  River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mad  River, 
67  miles  west-by-south  of  Columbus,  52  miles  north-northeast  of  Cin- 
cinnati, and  460  miles  west -by-north  of  Washington. 

Dayton  is  a  noticeably  handsome  city.  It  is  regularly  laid  out, 
with  streets  100  feet  wide  crossing  each  other  at  right-angles.  The 
public  buildings  are  elegant,  and  great  taste  has  been  displayed  in  the 
construction  of  the  private  residences.  The  County  Court  House  is 
built  of  pure  white  marble,  and  its  architecture  is  somewhat  in  the 
style  of  the  Parthenon.  It  is  said  to  be  the  most  elegant  structure  of 
its  class  in  the  western  States. 

The  city  contains  over  34  churches,  a  public  library,  several  hotels, 
8  public  and  several  private  schools,  and  4  newspaper  offices.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  water.  It  is  provided  with  a  police 
force  and  steam  fire  department,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  30,473. 

Seven  railways  centre  at  Dayton.     The  city  is  one  of  the  most  im- 


OHIO. 


835 


THE  COURT  HOUSE,  AT  DAYTON. 

portant  manufacturing  towns  in  the  West.  There  is  abundant  water- 
power,  which  is  derived  from  the  waters  of  the  Mad  River,  brought 
into  the  city  by  means  of  a  hydraulic  canal.  The  manufactures  con- 
sist principally  of  railroad  equipments,  iron  ware,  paper,  cotton  and 
woollen  fabrics,  etc. 

The  city  is  the  seat  of  the  Southern  Lunatic  Asylum  of  Ohio. 

Dayton  was  settled  on  the  1st  of  April,  1796.  In  1805,  it  was 
incorporated.  It  grew  slowly,  however,  until  the  close  of  the  war 
of  1812. 

TOLEDO, 

The  third  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Lucas  county,  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  Maurnee  River,  4  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  10  miles 
from  Lake  Erie.  It  is  134  miles  northwest  of  Columbus,  100  miles 
west  of  Cleveland,  and  246  miles  northeast  of  Cincinnati. 

The  city  lies  on  an  elevated  plain.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is 
well  built.  The  principal  buildings  are  the  Public  School  houses, 
the  churches,  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the  hotels,  and  the  Opera 
House.  The  city  contains  about  20  churches,  a  number  of  public  and 
private  schools,  4  newspaper  offices,  and  several  fine  hotels.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  is  supplied  with  water  by  means  of  artesian  wells; 
possesses  a  system  of  street  railways,  and  a  steam  fire  department ;  and 
is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
31,584. 

Toledo  is  just  entering  upon  its  manufacturing  career,  and  offers 


836  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

great  inducements  to  capitalists.  Wooden  ware,  iron,  flax,  tobacco, 
flour,  cotton  fabrics,  and  chandlery  are  made  here  in  small  quantities. 

It  is  an  important  commercial  city,  however.  It  has  railway  con- 
nections with  all  parts  of  the  State  and  Union,  and  the  river  furnishes 
a  safe  and  commodious  harbor  for  vessels  navigating  the  lakes.  It  is 
the  northern  terminus  of  the  Miami  and  Erie  Canal,  which,  starting 
from  Cincinnati,  traverses  the  fertile  valleys  of  the  Miami  and  Mau- 
mee.  The  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal  connects  it  with  E vans vi lie,  Ind., 
on  the  Ohio  River,  traversing  in  its  course  the  valley  of  the  Wabash. 
The  lake,  the  canals  and  the  railways  annually  pour  a  large  and  grow- 
ing trade  into  the  lap  of  Toledo.  The  city  is  an  important  grain  and 
timber  market,  and  is  destined  to  become  of  greater  importance  with 
the  development  of  the  surrounding  country.  Several  grain  eleva- 
tors are  in  operation  along  the  harbor. 

Toledo  covers  the  site  of  a  stockade  fort,  called  Fort  Industry, 
built  in  1800,  near  what  is  now  Summit  street.  It  was  originally 
divided  into  two  settlements,  Vistula  and  Port  Lawrence,  both  of 
which  languished  till  about  the  year  1833.  In  1836,  the  two  villages 
were  united  in  one  corporation  as  the  city  of  Toledo.  The  comple- 
tion of  the  canals,  about  the  year  1845,  marks  the  beginning  of  its 
commercial  importance ;  since  which  time,  it  has  grown  with  great 
rapidity  in  population  and  in  wealth. 

SANDUSKY, 

A  flourishing  city,  is  situated  in  Erie  county,  on  the  southern  shore  of 
Sandusky  Bay,  5  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  110  miles  north-by-east  of 
Columbus,  and  210  miles  north-northeast  of  Cincinnati. 

The  ground  on  which  the  city  is  built  rises  as  it  recedes  from  the 
lake,  and  commands  extensive  and  charming  views  of  it.  It  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  with  wide  streets  shaded  with  trees,  intersecting  each 
other  at  right-angles.  A  handsome  public  square  occupies  the  centre 
of  the  city ;  and  around  it  stand  the  principal  churches.  The  city  is 
well  built,  many  of  the  buildings  being  constructed  of  a  fine  limestone, 
taken  from  the  inexhaustible  bed  of  this  stone  on  which  the  city  is 
built.  Large  quantities  of  this  stone  are  exported. 

There  are  in  Sandusky  about  18  churches,  several  schools,  several 
newspaper  offices,  and  2  hotels.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is 
supplied  with  water.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In 
1870,  the  population  was  13,000. 

Sandusky  is  engaged  in  manufactures  to  a  limited  extent.     It  is 


OHIO.  831 

principally  a  commercial  town,  however.  Its  harbor  is  excellent  and 
safe,  admitting  vessels  of  all  sizes.  During  the  season  of  navigation 
it  is  generally  full  of  steamers  and  sailing  craft  trading  between  San- 
dusky  and  the  various  lake  ports.  Three  railways  connect  the  city 
with  all  parts  of  the  State  and  Union. 

Sandusky  was  originally  settled  in  1817,  by  two  pioneers  from 
Connecticut,  and  the  first  dwelling  was  built  during  the  fall  of  that 
year.  The  first  church  was  built  in  1830. 

The  other  cities  and  towns  of  importance  are,  Zanesville,  Ports- 
mouth, Hamilton,  Xenia,  Springfield,  Newark,  Marietta,  Chillicothe, 
Steubenville,  Urbana,  and  Mansfield. 

MISCELLANY. 

SIMON     KENTON. 

Simon  Kenton  was  a  Virginian  by  birth,  and  emigrated  to  the  wilds  of  the 
West  in  the  year  1771.  He  was  born  (according  to  a  manuscript  which  he  dic- 
tated to  a  gentleman  of  Kentucky,  some  years  since,)  in  Fauquier  county,  on  the 
15th  of  May,  1755,  of  poor  parents.  His  early  life  was  passed  principally  on  a 
farm.  At  the  age  of  16,  having  a  quarrel  with  a  rival  in  a  love  affair,  he  left  his 
antagonist  upon  the  ground  for  dead,  and  made  quick  steps  for  the  wilderness. 
In  the  course  of  a  few  days,  wandering  to  and  fro,  he  arrived  at  a  small  settle- 
ment on  Cheat  Creek,  one  of  the  forks  of  the  Monongahela,  where  he  called  him- 
self Butler.  Here,  according  to  Mr.  McClung,  he  attached  himself  to  a  small 
company  headed  by  John  Mahon  and  Jacob  Greathouse,  which  was  about  start- 
ing farther  west,  on  an  exploring  expedition.  He  was  soon  induced,  however, 
by  a  young  adventurer  of  the  name  of  Yager,  who  had  been  taken  by  the  western 
Indians  when  a  child,  and  spent  many  years  among  them,  to  detach  himself  from 
the  company,  and  go  with  him  to  a  land  which  the  Indians  called  Kan-tuc-kee, 
and  which  he  represented  as  being  a  perfect  elysium.  Accompanied  by  another 
young  man,  named  Strader,  they  set  off  for  the  backwoods  paradise  in  high 
spirits  :  Kenton  not  doubting  that  he  should  find  a  country  flowing  with  milk  and 
honey,  where  he  would  have  little  to  do  but  to  eat,  drink,  and  be  merry.  Such, 
however,  was  not  his  luck.  They  continued  wandering  through  the  wilderness 
for  some  weeks,  without  finding  the  "promised  land,"  and  then  retraced  their 
steps,  and  successively  explored  the  land  about  Salt  Lick,  Little  and  Big  Sandy, 
and  Guyandotte.  At  length,  being  totally  wearied  out,  they  turned  their  atten- 
tion entirely  to  hunting  and  trapping,  and  thus  spent  nearly  two  years.  Being 
discovered  by  the  Indians,  and  losing  one  of  his  companions  (Strader),  Kenton 
was  compelled  to  abandon  his  trapping-waters,  and  hunting-grounds.  After 
divers  hardships,  he  succeeded  in  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Kanawha, 
with  his  remaining  companion,  where  he  found  and  attached  himself  to  another 
exploring  party.  This,  however,  was  attacked  by  the  Indians,  soon  after  com- 
mencing the  descent  of  the  Ohio,  compelled  to  abandon  its  canoes,  and  strike 
diagonally  through  the  woods  for  Greenbriar  county.  Its  members  suffered  much 


838  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

in  accomplishing  this  journey,  from  fatigue,  sickness,  and  famine  ;  and  on  reach- 
ing the  settlements  separated. 

Kenton's  rival  of  the  love  affair  had  long  since  recovered  from  the  castigation 
which  he  had  given  him.  But  of  this  the  young  hero  had  not  heard.  He  there- 
fore did  not  think  proper  to  venture  home ;  but,  instead,  built  a  canoe  on  the 
Monongahela,  and  once  more  sought  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Kanawha,  where  he 
hunted  till  the  spring  of  1774.  This 'year,  he  descended  the  Ohio  as  far  as  the 
mouth  of  Big  Bone  Creek,  and  was  engaged  in  various  explorations  till  1778, 
when  he  joined  Daniel  Boone  in  his  expedition  against  the  Indian  town  on  Paint 
Creek.  Immediately,  on  his  return  from  this,  he  was  dispatched  by  Colonel 
Bowman,  with  two  companions,  to  make  observations  upon  the  Indian  towns  on 
Little  Miami,  against  which  the  colonel  meditated  an  expedition.  He  reached 
the  towns  in  safety,  and  made  the  necessary  surveys  without  being  observed  by 
the  Indians  ;  and  the  expedition  might  have  terminated  much  to  his  credit,  and 
been  very  useful  to  the  settlers  in  Kentucky,  had  he  not,  before  leaving  the 
towns,  stolen  a  number  of  the  Indians'  horses.  The  animals  were  missed  early 
on  the  following  morning,  the  trail  of  the  marauders  was  discovered,  and  pursuit 
instantly  commenced.  Kenton  and  his  companions  soon  heard  cries  in  their 
rear,  knew  that  they  had  been  discovered,  and  saw  the  necessity  of  riding  for 
their  lives.  They  therefore  dashed  through  the  woods  at  a  furious  rate,  with  the 
hue  and  cry  after  them,  until  their  course  was  suddenly  interrupted  by  an  im- 
penetrable swamp.  Here  they,  from  necessity,  paused  for  a  few  moments,  and 
listened  attentively.  Hearing  no  sounds  of  pursuit,  they  resumed  their  course  : 
and  skirting  the  swamp  for  some  distance,  in  the  vain  hope  of  crossing  it,  they 
dashed  off  in  a  straight  line  for  the  Ohio.  They  continued  their  furious  speed  for 
48  hours,  halting  but  once  or  twice  for  a,  few  minutes  to  take  some  refreshment, 
and  reached  the  Ohio  in  safety.  The  river  was  high  and  rough,  and  they  found 
it  impossible  to  urge  the  jaded  horses  over.  Various  efforts  were  made,  but  all 
failed.  Kenton  was  never  remarkable  for  prudence  ;  and,  on  this  occasion,  his 
better  reason  seems  to  have  deserted  him  entirely.  By  abandoning  the  animals, 
he  might  yet  have  escaped,  though  several  hours  had  been  lost  in  endeavoring  to 
get  them  over.  But  this  he  could  not  make  up  his  mind  to  do.  He  therefore 
called  a  council,  when  it  was  determined,  as  they  felt  satisfied  they  must  be  some 
12  hours  in  advance  of  their  pursuers,  that  they  should  conceal  their  horses  in  a 
neighboring  ravine,  and  themselves  take  stations  in  an  adjoining  wood,  in  the  hope 
that  by  sunset  the  high  wind  would  abate,  and  the  state  of  the  river  be  such  as  to 
permit  their  crossing  with  the  booty.  At  the  hour  waited  for,  however,  the  wind 
was  higher,  and  the  water  rougher  than  ever.  Still,  as  if  completely  infatuated, 
they  remained  in  their  dangerous  position  through  the  night.  The  next  morning 
was  mild ;  the  Indians  had  not  yet  been  heard  in  pursuit,  and  Kenton  again 
urged  the  horses  over.  But,  recollecting  the  difficulties  of  the  preceding  day,  the 
affrighted  animals  could  not  now  be  induced  to  enter  the  water  at  all.  Each  of 
the  three  men  therefore  mounted  a  horse,  abandoning  the  rest  (they  had  stolen 
quite  a  drove),  and  started  down  the  river,  with  the  intention  of  keeping  the 
Ohio  and  Indiana  side  till  they  should  arrive  opposite  Louisville.  But  they  were 
slow  in  making  even  this  movement ;  and  they  had  not  ridden  over  100  yards 
when  they  heard  a  loud  halloo,  proceeding  apparently  from  the  spot  which  they 
had  just  left.  They  were  soon  surrounded  by  the  pursuers.  One  of  Kenton's 
companions  effected  his  escape,  the  other  was  killed.  Kenton  was  made  pris- 
oner— "falling  a  victim,"  says  Mr.  McClung,  "to  his  excessive  love  of  horse- 
flesh.'*, 


OHIO.  839 

After  the  Indians  had  scalped  his  dead  companion,  and  kicked  and  cuffed  Ken- 
ton  to  their  hearts'  content,  they  compelled  him  to  lie  down  upon  his  back,  and 
stretch  out  his  arms  to  their  full  length.  They  then  passed  a  stout  stick  at  right 
angles  across  his  breast,  to  each  extremity  of  which  his  wrists  were  fastened  by 
thongs  of  buffalo-hide.  Stakes  were  next  driven  into  the  earth  near  his  feet,  to 
which  they  were  fastened  in  like  manner.  A  halter  was  then  tied  round  his 
neck,  and  fastened  to  a  sapling  which  grew  near.  And  finally,  a  strong  rope 
•was  passed  under  his  body,  and  wound  several  times  round  his  arms  at  the  el- 
bows— thus  lashing  them  to  the  stick  which  lay  across  his  breast,  and  to  which 
his  wrists  were  fastened,  in  a  manner  peculiarly  painful.  He  could  move  neither 
feet,  arms,  nor  head  ;  and  was  kept  in  this  position  till  the  next  morning.  The 
Indians  then,  wishing  to  commence  their  return -journey,  unpinioned  Kenton, 
and  lashed  him  by  the  feet  to  a  wild,  unbroken  colt  (one  of  the  animals  he  had 
stolen  from  them),  with  his  hands  tied  behind  him. 

In  this  manner  he  was  driven  into  a  captivity  as  cruel,  singular,  and  remark- 
able in  other  respects,  as  any  in  the  whole  history  of  Indian  warfare  upon  this 
continent.  "A  fatalist,"  says  the  author  of  the  "Sketches  of  Western  Adven- 
ture," "would  recognize  the  hand  of  destiny  in  every  stage  of  its  progress.  In 
the  infatuation  with  which  Kenton  refused  to  adopt  proper  measures  for  his 
safety,  while  such  were  practicable  ;  in  the  persevering  obstinacy  with  which  he 
remained  on  the  Ohio  shore  until  flight  became  useless;  and  afterward,  in  that 
remarkable  succession  of  accidents,  by  which,  without  the  least  exertion  on  his 
part,  he  was  so  often  at  one  hour  tantalized  with  a  prospect  of  safety,  and  the 
next  plunged  into  the  deepest  despair.  He  was  eight  times  exposed  to  the 
gauntlet — three  times  tied  to  the  stake — and  as  often  thought  himself  upon  the 
eve  of  a  terrible  death.  All  the  sentences  passed  upon  him,  whether  of  mercy  or 
condemnation,  seem  to  have  been  pronounced  in  one  council  only  to  be  reversed 
in  another.  Every  friend  that  Providence  raised  up  in  his  favor,  was  immedi- 
ately followed  by  some  enemy,  who  unexpectedly  interposed,  and  turned  his 
short  glimpse  of  sunshine  into  deeper  darkness  than  ever.  For  three  weeks  he 
was  constantly  see-sawing  between  life  and  death  ;  and  during  the  whole  time  he 
was  perfectly  passive.  No  wisdom,  or  foresight,  or  exertion,  could  have  saved 
him.  Fortune  fought  his  battle  from  first  to  last,  and  seemed  determined  to  per- 
mit nothing  else  to  interfere." 

He  was  eventually  liberated  from  the  Indians,  when  about  to  be  bound  to  the 
stake  for  the  fourth  time  and  burnt,  by  an  Indian  agent  of  the  name  of  Drewyer, 
who  was  anxious  to  obtain  intelligence  for  the  British  comjnander  at  Detroit,  of 
the  strength  and  condition  of  the  settlements  in  Kentucky.  He  got  nothing  im- 
portant out  of  Kenton  ;  but  in  three  weeks,  Football  of  Fortune  was  sent  to  De- 
troit, from  which  place  he  effected  his  escape  in  about  eight  months,  and  returned 
to  Kentucky.  Fearless  and  active,  he  soon  embarked  in  new  enterprises ;  and 
was  with  George  Rogers  Clarke,  in  his  celebrated  expedition  against  Vincennes 
and  Kaskaskia ;  with  Edwards,  in  his  abortive  expedition  to  the  Indian  towns  in 
1785 ;  and  with  Wayne,  in  his  decisive  campaign  of  1794. 

Simon  Kenton,  throughout  the  struggles  of  the  pioneers,  had  the  reputation  of 
being  a  valuable  scout,  a  hardy  woodsman,  and  a  brave  Indian  fighter ;  but,  in 
reviewing  his  eventful  career,  he  appears  to  have  greatly  lacked  discretion,  and 
to  have  evinced  frequently  a  want  of  energy.  In  his  after  life  he  was  much  re- 
spected, and  he  continued  to  the  last  fond  of  regaling  listeners  with  stories  of 
the  early  times.  A  friend  of  ours,  who  some  years  ago  made  a  visit  to  the 


840  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

abode  of  the  venerable  patriarch,  describes  in  the  following  terms  his  appearance 
at  that  time:  "Kenton's  form,  even  under  the  weight  of  79  years,  is  striking; 
and  must  have  been  a  model  of  manly  strength  and  agility.  His  eye  is  bluet 
mild,  and  yet  penetrating  in  its  glance.  The  forehead  projects  very  much  at  the 
eyebrows — which  are  well  defined — and  then  recedes,  and  is  neither  very  high 
nor  very  broad.  His  hair,  which  in  active  life  was  light,  is  now  quite  gray  ;  his 
nose  is  straight ;  and  his  mouth,  before  he  tost.  his.  teeth,  must  have  been  expres- 
sive and  handsome.  I  observed  that  he  had  yet  one, tooth — which,  in  connection 
with  his  character  and  manner  of  conversation,  was  continually  reminding  me  of 
Leatherstocking.  The  whole  face  is  remarkably  expressive,  not  of  turbulence  or 
excitement,  but  rather  of  rumination  and  self-possession.  Simplicity,  frankness, 
honesty,  and  a  strict  regard  to  truth,  appeared  to  be  the  prominent  traits  of  his 
character."  In  giving  an  answer  to  a  question  which  my  friend  asked  him,  I 
was  particularly  struck  with  his  truthfulness  and  simplicity.  The  question  was, 
whether  the  account  of  his  life,  given  in  the  "  Sketches  of  Western  Adventure," 
was  true  or  not.  "  Well,  I'll  tell  you,"  said  he  ;  "  not  true.  The  book  says  that 
when  Blackfish,  the  Injun  warrior,  asked  me,  when  they  had  taken  me  prisoner, 
if  Colonel  Boone  sent  me  to  steal  their  horses,  I  said,  '  No,  sir.'  "  Here  he  looked 
indignant  and  rose  from  his  chair.  "  I  tell  you  I  never  said  '  sir '  to  an  Injun  in 
my  life  ;  I  scarcely  ever  say  it  to  a  white  man."  Here  Mrs.  Kenton,  who  was 
engaged  in  some  domestic  occupation  at  the  table,  turned  round  and  remarked, 
that  when  they  were  last  in  Kentucky,  some  one  gave  her  the  book  to  read  to  her 
husband ;  and  that  wrhen  she  came  to  that  part,  he  would  not  let  her  read  any 
further.  "And  I  tell  you,"  continued  he,  "I  was  never  tied  to  a  stake  in  my 
life  to  be  burned.  They  had  me  painted  black  when  I  saw  Grirty,  but  not  tied  to 
a  stake." 

We  are  inclined  to  think,  notwithstanding  this,  that  the  statement  in  the 
"Sketches,"  of  his  being  three  times  tied  to  the  stake,  is  correct ;  for  .the  author 
of  that  interesting  work  had  before  him  a  manuscript  account  of  the  pioneer's 
life,  which  had  been  dictated  by  Mr.  Kenton  to  a  gentleman  of  Kentucky,  a 
number  of  years  before,  when  he  had  no  motive  to  exaggerate,  and  his  memory 
was  comparatively  unimpaired.  But  he  is  now  beyond  the  reach  of  earthly  toil; 
or  trouble,  or  suffering.  His  old  age  was  as  exemplary  as  his  youth  and  man- 
hood had  been  active  and  useful.  And  though  his  last  years  were  clouded  by 
poverty,  and  his  eyes  closed  in  a  miserable  cabin  to  the  light  of  life,  yet  shall  he 
occupy  a  bright  page  in  our  border  history,  and  his  name  soon  open  to  the  light 
of  tame. 


INDIANA. 

Area,  . 33,809  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, .    1,350,428 

Population  in  1870,      ......    1,680,637 

THE  State  of  Indiana  is  situated  between  37°  50'  and  41°  50'  K 
latitude,  and  between  (about)  84°  50'  and  (about)  88°  W.  longitude. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Michigan  and  Lake  Michigan,  on  the 
east  by  Ohio  and  Kentucky,  on  the  south  by  Kentucky,  and  on  the 
west  by  Illinois.  Its  extreme  length,  from  north  to  south,  is  about 
280  miles,  and  its  extreme  width,  from  east  to  west,  about  144  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  Ohio  River  is  bordered  for  the  most  part  by  a  range  of  hills, 
and  the  country  south  of  the  White  River  is  mostly  rugged.  A  low 
ridge  enters  the  State  from  Kentucky,  and  crosses  the  southern  part 
in  a  northwestern  direction.  The  White  and  Wabash  rivers  break 
through  this  ridge  in  a  series  of  rapids.  The  rapids  of  the  Ohio 
River  are  produced  by  the  same  cause.  North  of  the  White  River, 
the  country  is  either  gently  rolling  or  level.  Fine  prairies  occupy 
the  western  counties,  and  the  eastern  part  of  the  State  is  heavily 
timbered.  Some  swamp  lands  occupy  several  of  the  northwestern 
counties. 

Lake  Michigan,  already  described,  washes  the  western  portion  of 
the  northern  part  of  the  State.  Michigan  City  is  the  principal  town 
on  the  lake. 

The  Ohio  River  washes  the  entire  southern  shore  of  the  State,  and 
receives  the  waters  of  its  principal  stream,  the  Wabash.     The  Wabash 

841 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

rises  in  the  western  part  of  the  State  of  Ohio,  and  enters  Indiana  near 
the  centre  of  the  eastern  boundary.  It  then  flows  northwest  to 
Huntiugton,  where  it  bends  to  the  southwest,  and  flows  in  that  direc- 
tion across  the  State  to  the  Illinois  border,  below  Terre  Haute.  It 
then  forms  the  boundary  between  Indiana  and  Illinois  for  about  100 
miles,  and  empties  into  the  Ohio  River  at  the  southwestern  extremity 
of  the  former  State.  It  is  550  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for  300 
miles  for  steamboats,  at  high  water.  The  White  River  is  the  principal 
branch  of  the  Wabash.  It  is  formed  by  two  branches,  called  the 
East  Fork  and  the  West  Fork.  The  West  Fork,  which  may  be  re- 
garded as  the  main  stream,  rises  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  and 
is  300  miles  long.  It  flows  through  the  central  part  of  Indiana,  and 
is  navigable,  at  high  water,  for  200  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
White  River.  The  East  Fork  is  250  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for 
flat-boats.  The  two  branches  unite  near  Kinderhook,  in  Davies 
county.  The  main  stream  is  about  40  or  50  miles  long.  The  gen- 
eral course  of  the  White  River  and  its  branches  is  southwest.  The 
Wabash  is  obstructed  at  low  water  by  a  ledge  of  rocks  just  above  the 
mouth  of  the  White  River.  The  Maumee  and  its  branches  drain  the 
northeastern  counties,  and  the  Kankakee,  one  of  the  sources  of  the 
Illinois,  flows  through  the  northwest.  The  Upper  St.  Joseph's  of 
Michigan  flows  for  30  miles  through  this  State,  in  the  extreme  northern 
part.  The  Tippecanoe  and  Mississinewa,  flowing  into  the  Wabash, 
the  White  Water  and  Blue  River  flowing  into  the  Ohio,  and  the 
Flat  Rock  flowing  into  the  White  River,  are  the  other  streams  of 
importance. 

MINERALS. 

The  southwestern  part  of  the  State  is  rich  in  coal  beds.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  they  are  capable  of  producing  50,000,000  bushels  to  the 
square  mile.  Iron,  zinc,  gypsum,  marble,  limestone,  and  sandstone, 
of  an  excellent  building  quality,  and  grindstones  are  found. 


CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  mild  as  a  general  rule,  but  liable  to  sudden  and 
severe  changes.  The  summers  are  warm,  but  the  winters,  though 
severe,  are  short,  and  except  in  the  most  northern  counties  deep  snows 
are  not  usual. 


INDIANA.  843 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  of  the  State  is  good,  and  has  never  been  worked  to  its  full 
capacity.  The  best  and  most  fertile  lands  lie  along  the  rivers.  The 
State  contains  a  great  deal  of  excellent  grazing  land. 

According  to  the  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Bureau  for  1869,  there 
were  in  Indiana  8,242,183  acres  of  improved  land.  In  the  same 
year,  the  other  returns  were  as  follows : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 20,600,000 

u          Indian  corn,        73,000,000 

"          rye, 575,000 

oats, 12,413,000 

barley, 411,000 

"          buckwheat, 303,000 

"          potatoes, 4,750,000 

Pounds  of  tobacco, 7,000,000 

butter, 18,306,651 

Tons  of  hay, 1,200,000 

Number  of  horses, 890,340 

asses  and  mules, 35.340 

sheep, 1,011,120 

milch  cows, 390,450 

swine, 3,580,120 

young  cattle, 744,850 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $50,855,539 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

This  State  has  no  foreign  commerce,  but  has  an  active  lake  and 
river  trade. 

Manufactures  do  not  yet  occupy  the  position  to  which  the  cheapness 
of  fuel  and  abundance  of  water-power  in  Indiana  entitle  them.  The 
State  is  almost  entirely  agricultural  at  present,  but  there  is  good  reason 
to  believe  that  it  will  one  day  become  a  prominent  manufacturing 
community.  In  1860,  the  State  contained  5120  establishments  devoted 
to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  They  employed  a 
capital  of  $18,875,000,  consumed  raw  material  worth  $27,360,000, 
and  returned  an  annual  product  of  $43,250,000. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  Indiana  contained  3529  miles  of  completed  railroads,  con- 
structed at  a  cost  of  over  $100,000,000.  Nearly  all  the  great  lines  between 
the  far  West  and  the  East  cross  this  State,  which  is  one  of  the  fore- 


844  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

most  in  the  country  in  the  work  of  internal  improvements.  A  perfect 
network  of  roads  covers  the  State,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  county 
which  is  not  crossed  in  some  part  by  a  railroad.  Seven  lines  centre 
at  the  capital,  and  half  a  dozen  cross  the  northern  part  of  the  State  to 
Chicago.  All  the  important  points  are  thus  connected  with  each 
other,  and  with  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  roads  of  Indiana  are 
amongst  the  best  in  the  country. 

There  are  453  miles  of  canal  navigation  in  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

Indiana  is  one  of  the  first  States  in  respect  to  the  provision  made 
for  public  education. 

In  1870,  there  were  26  colleges  in  the  State,  the  principal  of  which 
is  the  State  University,  at  Bloomingtou,  which  is  a  part  of  the  public 
school  system,  and  furnishes  education  free.  A  State  Normal  school 
has  been  established  at  Terre  Haute. 

The  educational  system,  is  under  the  general  control  of  a  Superintend- 
ent of  Public  Instruction,  elected  by  the  people  for  a  term  of  two  years. 
He  reports  the  condition  of  the  schools  to  the  Legislature  at  the  end 
of  his  term.  A  County  Commissioner  is  in  charge  of  the  schools  of 
each  county,  and  in  each  city  and  township  the  schools  are  controlled 
by  a  Board  of  Trustees.  An  Examiner  is  appointed  in  each  county 
by  the  Commissioner.  It  is  the  duty  of  this  official  to  visit  the  schools 
and  examine  the  teachers,  under  the  direction  of  the  Commissioner,  and 
to  hold  a  Teachers'  Institute  in  his  county  at  least  once  a  year. 

In  1870,  the  school  fund  amounted  to  over  $7,000,000.  The  nura^ 
ber  of  public  schools  in  the  State  was  8871,  and  the  number  of  pupils 
was  446,076.  There  were  also  202  private  schools,  with  about  18,000 
pupils. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

There  are  two  State  prisons  in  this  State — the  State  Prison,  North, 
at  Michigan  City,  and  the  State  Prison,  South,  at  Jefferson vi lie.  At 
the  Jefferson ville  prison,  the  labor  of  the  convicts  is  let  out  to  con- 
tractors, and  the  institution  is  self-sustaining.  The  State  conducts 
the  northern  prison. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  at  Indianapolis,  and  is  a 
flourishing  and  excellent  institution.  The  Institute  for  the  Education 
of  the  Blind,  and  the  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  are  also  at  Indianapolis. 
They  are  well  managed.  In  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  shoe- 


INDIANA.  845 

.making  and  cabinet-making  are  taught  the  boys,  while  the  girls  are 
instructed  in  needle-work.  Brush  and  broom  making  are  carried  on 
by  the  boys,  and  bead  work  of  various  kinds  by  the  girls,  at  the  Blind 
Asylum.  In  October,  1867,  there  were  169  deaf  mutes  in  the  first 
institution  named  above;  96  blind  persons  in  the  second  ;  and  in  1868, 
313  lunatics  in  the  third. 

The  Soldiers'  and  Seamen's  Home  is  located  in  Rush  county.  It  was 
established  in  this  county  in  1866,  and  will  accommodate  100  patients. 

A  State  Reform  School  is  just  being  put  in  operation  in  Hendricks 
county. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  3106  churches  in  Indiana,  and  the  value  of 
church  property  was  $11,942,227 

LIBRARIES    AND    NEWSPAPERS. 

In  1870,  there  were  5301  libraries  in  the  State,  containing  1,125,- 
533  volumes. 

In  the  same  year  the  number  of  newspapers  and  magazines  pub- 
lished in  this  State  was  as  follows :  daily,  20 ;  semi-weekly,  1 ;  weekly, 
233;  monthly,  28.  Total,  293.  Of  these  240  were  political,  9  religious, 
16  literary,  and  28  miscllaneous.  They  had  an  aggregate  annual  cir- 
culation of  26,964,894  copies. 

FINANCES. 

On  the  31st  of  October,  1870,  the  State  debt  amounted  to  $3,970,- 
601.  The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  during  the  fiscal  year  ending  Octo- 
ber 31st,  1870,  amounted  to  $3,896,541,  and  the  expenditures  for  the 
same  period  to  $3,532,406. 

In  1868,  there  were  68  National  banks  doing  business  in  the  State, 
with  a  capital  of  $12,867,000. 

GOVERNMENT. 

By  the  terms  of  the  State  Constitution,  every  male  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  21  years  old,  who  has  resided  in  the  State  six  months, 
and  every  male  of  foreign  birth,  21  years  old,  who  has  resided  in  the 
United  States  one  year,  and  in  the  State  six  months,  and  has  declared 
his  intention  to  become  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  is  entitled  to 
vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 


846  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Secretary  of  State,  Auditor  of  State,  Treasurer  of  State,  and  Attorney- 
General,  and  a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  50  members) 
and  a  House  of  Representatives  (of  98  members),  all  elected  by  the 
people.  The  General  election  is  held  in  October.  The  Governor 
and  Lieutenant-Governor  are  chosen  for  four  years,  and  the  other 
officers  and  the  Legislature  for  two  years.  The  Legislature  meets 
biennially  in  January. 

The  Courts  of  the  State  are  the  Supreme  Court,  Circuit  Courts,  and 
a  Court  of  Common  Pleas.  The  judges  are  elected  by  the  people ; 
those  of  the  Supreme  Court  for  seven  years,  those  of  the  Circuit  Courts 
for  six  years,  and  those  of  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas  for  four  years. 
The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  four  judges. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Indianapolis. 

Indiana  is  divided  into  92  counties. 


HISTORY. 

Originally  a  part  of  New  France,  Indiana  was  first  explored  by  the 
French  missionaries  and  traders.  As  early  as  1700,  Vincennes  was 
a  missionary  station,  and  in  1716  it  became  a  trading-post.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  the  first  actual  white  settlers  were  French  soldiers,  who, 
by  frequent  intermarriages  with  the  Indians,  lost  their  habits  of  civili- 
zation, and  became  a  degenerate  community,  remaining  a  distinct 
class  for  fully  one  hundred  years. 

The  treaty  of  1763,  turned  over  to  Great  Britain  all  the  French 
possessions  east  of  the  Mississippi.  During  the  Revolution,  the 
French  settlers  were  bitterly  hostile  to  the  English,  and  in  one  instance 
gave  such  accurate  information  of  the  situation  and  condition  of  the 
British  fort  at  Vincennes,  that  General  Rogers  Clark,  of  Virginia, 
was  enabled  to  capture  it.  After  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  the 
territory  east  of  the  Mississippi  became  the  property  of  the  United 
States. 

Soon  after  the  settlement  of  Ohio,  several  military  expeditions  were 
sent  into  the  present  State  of  Indiana,  which  was  then  known  as  the 
Indian  country.  In  1790,  General  Harmar  destroyed  the  Indian 
towns  on  the  Maumee,  which  are  supposed  to  have  occupied  the  site  of 
the  present  town  of  Fort  Wayne,  but  was  himself  very  badly  handled 
by  the  savages.  In  May,  1791,  an  expedition  from  Kentucky,  under 
General  Charles  Scott,  laid  waste  the  towns  on  the  Wabash  and  Eel 
rivers,  without  losing  a  man ;  and  in  the  following  August,  another 


INDIANA.  847 

Kentucky  expedition  crossed  into  Indiana,  and  completed  the  work 
which  General  Scott  had  begun. 

The  Indians  continued  hostile  after  the  treaty  of  1795,  owing  to 
the  efforts  of  Tecumseh,  but  a  portion  of  them  sold  their  lands  to  the 
United  States  for  the  benefit  of  the  white  settlers. 

In  1802  and  1803,  and  again  in  1807,  unsuccessful  efforts  were 
made  to  introduce  slavery  into  the  Indiana  territory  in  spite  of  the 
prohibition  of  the  ordinance  by  which  the  territory  had  been  ceded  to 
the  United  States. 

The  Indians  having  become  troublesome  again,  the  Governor,  Gen- 
eral William  Henry  Harrison,  summoned  the  people  to  take  up  arms 
against  them.  The  savages  were  led  by  Tecumseh  and  his  brother 
The  Prophet,  two  able  and  determined  chieftains.  General  Harrison 
marched  into  their  country  with  a  considerable  force.  On  the  7th  of 
November,  1811,  he  appeared  with  his  army  before  Tippecanoe  (the 
Prophet's  town)  on  the  Wabash,  and  demanded  that  the  savages 
should  restore  all  the  property  they  had  taken  from  the  whites.  A 
conference  was  held  between  the  American  commander  and  Tecumseh, 
in  which  it  was  agreed  that  hostilities  should  not  begin  until  the  next 
morning.  Harrison,  however,  knew  that  the  Indians  would  not 
scruple  to  disregard  the  truce,  and  bivouacked  his  army  in  order  of 
battle.  His  suspicions  were  realized.  Just  before  daylight  Tecumseh 
made  a  furious  attack  upon  the  American  camp,  but,  thanks  to  the 
wise  precautions  of  Harrison,  was  repulsed,  and  his  warriors  routed 
with  terrible  loss.  Harrison  followed  up  his  victory  by  devastating 
the  Indian  country.  Soon  after  this  the  tribes  sued  for  peace. 

During  the  war  of  1812  the  Indians  joined  the  British  in  their 
efforts  against  the  Americans,  but  were  terribly  punished  for  so  doing. 
Their  warriors  were  slain  and  their  country  laid  waste,  and  in  the 
battle  of  the  Thames  their  famous  chieftain,  Tecumseh,  was  killed. 

In  the  year  1800  the  region  now  included  in  the  States  of  Illinois 
and  Indiana  was  organized  as  the  Territory  of  Indiana.  In  1809 
Illinois  Territory  was  separated  from  Indiana. 

On  the  29th  of  June,  1816,  a  State  Constitution  was  adopted  by 
the  people,  in  Convention,  and  on  the  llth  of  December,  of  the  same 
year,  Indiana  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  sovereign  State. 

The  new  State  grew  rapidly,  and  attracted  settlers  from  all  parts 
of  the  country.  Emigrants  from  Europe  also  came  over,  and  it  en- 
tered upon  that  splendid  career  of  wealth  and  prosperity  which  it  is 
still  pursuing. 


848 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


STATE  HOUSE  AT   INDIANAPOLIS. 

During  the  late  war  Indiana  furnished  195,147  troops  to  the  ser- 
vice of  the  United  States. 

CITIES   AND   TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  the  State  are, 
New  Albany,  Evansville,  Fort  Wayne,  Lafayette,  Terre  Haute, 
Madison,  Richmond,  Laporte,  Jeffersonville,  Logansport,  and  Michi' 
gan  City. 

INDIANAPOLIS, 

The  capital  and  largest  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Marion  county, 
on  the  west  fork  of  White  River,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Fall  Creek, 
109  miles  northwest  of  Cincinnati,  200  miles  southeast  of  Chicago, 
and  573  miles  west  by  north  of  Washington.  Latitude,  39°  46'  N. ; 
longitude,  86°  5'  W.  It  is  located  in  an  extensive  plain,  and  lies  in 
almost  the  exact  centre  of  the  State.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out, 
and  is  well  built.  It  is  making  rapid  progress  every  year  in  the 
character  of  its  edifices,  both  public  and  private,  and  is  now  noted  as 
one  of  the  handsomest  and  most  attractive  of  the  Western  capitals. 
The  streets  are  wide,  and  generally  cross  each  other  at  right  angles. 
Four  of  them,  however,  are  diagonal,  and  converge  to  a  circular  area 
in  the  centre  of  the  town.  Washington  street  is  the  principal 
thoroughfare,  and  is  120  feet  wide.  The  streets  are  well  paved,  are 
shaded  with  trees,  and  are  traversed  by  lines  of  street  railways.  The 


INDIANA.  849 

business  portions  boast  many  handsome  and  showy  structures,  and  the 
private  streets  contain  a  large  number  of  elegant  residences. 

The  public  buildings  are  a  credit  to  the  city  and  State.  The  State 
House  is  a  noble  edifice,  built  in  imitation  of  the  Parthenon,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome.  Its  dimensions  are  180  by  80  feet.  The  Court 
House  and  the  Union  Depot  are  the  other  prominent  buildings. 

The  schools  of  the  city  are  excellent  and  prosperous.  The  public 
schools  deserve  special  commendation,  and  the  private  academies  and 
seminaries  are  well  conducted.  The  Northwestern  Christian  Univer- 
sity, conducted  by  the  Christian  Church,  the  Baptist  Female  College, 
the  Indiana  Female  College,  and  the  Indiana  Medical  College,  are 
located  here.  The  State  and  Mercantile  Libraries  are  the  principal 
collections  of  books. 

The  Benevolent  Institutions  are,  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  State 
Asylums  for  the  Blind,  and  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and  several  local 
institutions  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  and  afflicted. 

The  city  contains  about  34  churches,  and  several  newspaper  offices, 
is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water.  It  is  provided 
with  an  efficient  police  force,  and  a  steam  fire  department,  and  is  gov- 
erned by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population  was  48,244. 

Eight  railway  lines  centre  at  Indianapolis,  and  make  it  one  of  the 
most  important  railway  points  in  America. 

Manufactures  are  carried  on  to  a  limited  extent,  iron,  machinery, 
paper,  flour,  and  window  sashes  being  the  principal  products. 

Indianapolis  is  noted  for  its  rapid  growth.  In  1820,  when  the  site 
was  selected  for  the  capital  of  the  State,  it  was  covered  with  a  dense 
forest.  The  first  settlement  was  made  in  the  spring  of  that  year,  and 
on  the  1st  of  January,  1825,  the  State  offices  were  removed  from 
Corydon  to  this  place.  The  State  Capitol  was  finished  in  1834. 

EVANSVILLE, 

In  Vanderburgh  county,  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Ohio,  is  the 
second  city  of  the  State,  with  respect  to  population.  It  is  200  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  200  miles  below  Louisville,  Ky.,  and 
144  miles  southwest  of  Indianapolis.  The  city  lies  on  a  high  bank 
of  the  river,  the  ground  sloping  gradually  from  the  first  street  to  the 
edge  of  the  water.  It  is  well  built,  and  presents  a  handsome  appear- 
ance from  the  river.  The  principal  streets  are  wide  and  well  paved. 
The  public  buildings  are,  the  Court  House,  the  Marine  Hospital  of  the 
United  States,  and  the  State  Bank.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and 
54 


850 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


EVANSVILLE. 

is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Ohio.  It  contains  about  30  churches, 
a  number  of  public  and  private  schools,  about  4  newspaper  offices,  and 
several  hotels.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870 
the  population  was  21,830. 

Evansville  is  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the  State.  It  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  which  is  462  miles  long, 
and  the  principal  market  of  the  famous  Green  River  Valley  of  Ken- 
tucky. The  annual  exports  of  the  city  exceed  $8,000,000  in  value, 
of  which  pork,  lard,  and  tobacco  are  the  principal  articles.  The  city 
is  also  extensively  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  iron,  brass,  and 
flour.  The  coal  for  this  purpose  is  mined  about  a  mile  from  the 
Court  House.  A  large  portion  of  the  population  is  of  German  origin. 

The  town  was  laid  out  in  1836,  at  which  time  the  site  was  covered 
with  a  dense  forest.  It  received  its  name  from  Robert  Morgan 
Evans,  a  native  of  Virginia,  one  of  the  original  proprietors. 

FORT   WAYNE, 

In  Allen  county,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Joseph's  and  St. 
Mary's  rivers,  which  here  unite  and  form  the  Maumee.  It  is  1 12  miles 
,  ngrtheast  of  Indianapolis,  and  96  west  of  Toledo,  Ohio.  The  city  is  laid 
out  on  the  level  prairie  land,  and  is  well  built.  It  has  grown  rapidly 
in  the  past  ten  years,  and  its  railway  connections  have  made  it  a  place 
of  considerable  importance.  The  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal  connects  it 
with  the  Ohio  and  Lake  Erie.  It  contains  about  10  churches,  4  news- 


INDIANA. 


851 


NEW   AL13AXY. 

paper  offices,  several  public  schools,  a  female  college,  and  the  county 
buildings,  and  is  lighted  with  gas  and  supplied  with  water.  It  is  the 
chief  market  for  the  rich  ocuntry  surrounding  it,  and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  trade.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In 
1870,  the  population  was  17,718,  making  it  the  third  city  of  the  State. 
Fort  Wayne  occupies  the  site  of  the  "  Twightwee  Village  "  of  the 
Miami  Indians.  The  Frencli  at  an  early  day  built  a  trading-post  here, 
and  in  1764,  the  English  erected  a  fort  on  the  spot.  In  1794,  General 
Anthony  Wayne  erected  a  new  fort,  which  was  called  by  his  name, 
and  which  has  given  its  name  to  the  present  city.  It  was  continued 
as  a  military-post  until  1841,  until  the  removal  westward  of  the 
Miamis  and  Potawatomies. 


NEW  ALBANY, 

In  Floyd  county,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  is  a  very  thriving 
city.  It  is  3  miles  below  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  and  5  miles  below 
Louisville,  136  miles  below  Cincinnati,  and  100  miles  south-by-east 
from  Indianapolis.  It  is  a  handsome  city,  built  on  level  ground,  at  a 
slight  elevation  above  the  river,  with  broad  well-paved  streets,  shaded 
with  handsome  trees.  It  contains  some  showy  buildings  and  fine 
residences.  The  principal  are  "the  county  buildings. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water  from  the 


852  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Ohio.  It  contains  about  18  churches,  several  public  and  private 
schools,  a  Presbyterian  Theological  Seminary,  and  2  newspaper  offices. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population 
was  15,396. 

New  Albany  is  the  most  important  commercial  city  in  the  State. 
It  is  the  centre  of  a  large  river  trade,  and  its  commerce  with  all  parts 
of  the  State  is  important.  Next  to  Cincinnati  it  is  the  principal  point 
on  the  Ohio  for  the  construction  of  steamers.  It  contains  6  steamboat 
yards.  It  is  also  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  iron,  brass,  machinery, 
nails,  locomotives,  woollen  goods,  flour,  and  engines  for  steamboats. 
The  town  was  laid  out  in  1813. 

MADISON, 

In  Jefferson  county,  is  an  enterprising  place.  It  lies  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  90  miles  below  Cincinnati,  44  miles  above 
Louisville,  and  86  miles  south-southeast  of  Indianapolis.  The  city 
lies  in  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  valley,  which,  with  the  hills  on  the 
Kentucky  shore,  and  those  of  Indiana,  and  the  bold  curve  and  broad 
sweep  of  the  Ohio,  affords  a  panorama  rarely  equalled.  This  valley 
is  about  three  miles  long,  and  is  enclosed  by  hills  nearly  400  feet 
high.  The  city  is  well  built,  the  ground  on  which  it  lies  being  about 
30  or  40  feet  above  the  highest  floods.  The  principal  streets  are  well 
paved,  and  the  city  is  lighted  with  gas  and  supplied  with  water.  The 
principal  buildings  are  the  Court  House  and  the  United  States  Hos- 
pital. The  city  contains  about  14  churches,  2  public  libraries,  3  large 
public  schools,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor 
and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  10,709. 

Madison  is  connected  with  all  parts  of  the  State  by  railways,  and  is 
largely  engaged  in  the  river  trade.  The  annual  value  of  the  com- 
merce of  the  city  is  estimated  at  more  than  $8,000,000.  Large 
quantities  of  breadstuffs  are  exported,  and  several  founderies,  machine 
shops,  etc.,  are  in  operation  in  the  city.  There  are  also  several  exten- 
sive pork-packing  establishments. 

Madison  was  first  settled  in  1807.  The  site  was  then  covered  with 
a  dense  growth  of  poplars,  beech,  and  walnut,  and  the  present  landing 
was  covered  with  a  growth  of  cotton-wood,  the  water's  edge  being 
fringed  with  willow's. 

LAFAYETTE, 

In  Tippecanoe  county,  on  the  left  barik  of  the  Wabash  River,  is  a 
growing  city.  It  is  66  miles  northwest  of  Indianapolis,  and 


INDIANA. 


853 


LAFAYETTE. 


123  miles  southeast  of  Chicago.  The  city  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
ground  gradually  rising  from  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the 
river.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  rapidly  improving  in  the  cha- 
racter of  its  buildings.  It  contains  a  handsome  court  house,  4  public 
and  several  private  schools,  14  churches,  and  4  newspaper  offices.  It 
is  lighted  with  gas.  In  1870,  the  population  was  13,506. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city,  on  the  public  square,  is  a  fine  medicinal 
well.  The  well  was  sunk  for  drinking  water,  and  at  the  depth  of 
230  feet  this  mineral  stream  was  struck.  It  is  a  salt  sulphur  water, 
and  closely  resembles  that  of  the  Blue  Lick  Springs  of  Kentucky.  It 
is  applicable  to  numerous  diseases,  such  as  bronchitis,  rheumatism, 
dyspepsia,  diseases  of  the  liver,  kidneys,  sexual  organs,  and  in  general 
for  disturbances  of  the  secretive  organs  or  surfaces.  The  stream  is 
constant,  and  ample  for  bathing  and  drinking  purposes. 

Lafayette  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  the  most  important 
grain  market  in  the  State.  The  Wabash  Canal  connects  it  with  the 
Ohio  and  Lake  Erie,  and  3  railwavs  connect  it  with  the  rest  of  the 
State.  It  possesses  excellent  water-power,  and  is  within  immediate 
reach  of  valuable  beds  of  iron,  coal,  and  clay. 

Lafayette  was  laid  out  in  1825,  on  Government  land.  Seven  miles 
north  of  the  city,  on  the  line  of  the  railway  to  Chicago,  is  the  femous 
battle-field  of  Tippecanoe,  where  on  the  7th  of  November,  1811,  Gen- 
eral Harrison  defeated  the  Indian  chief  Tecumseh. 


854  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

TERRE  HAUTE, 

In  Vigo  county,  on  the  left  or  eastern  bank  of  the  Wabash  River,  is 
a  leading  city  of  the  State.  It  is  73  miles  west  of  Indianapolis, 
109  miles  north  of  Evansville,  and  187  east  of  St.  Louis.  The  site 
of  the  city  is  elevated  about  60  feet  above  low  water,  and  a  few  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  surrounding  prairie.  The  situation  is  very 
beautiful.  The  prairie  is  noted  for  its  fertility,  and  the  beauty  of  its 
landscape.  The  plan  of  the  city  is  rectangular.  The  streets  are  wide, 
and  are  famous  for  their  handsome  shade  trees.  The  greater  portion 
of  the  city  is  built  of  brick,  and  many  of  the  houses  are  handsome. 
The  residences  as  a  rule  are  located  in  grounds  ornamented  with 
shrubbery.  The  city  contains  a  fine  court  house,  a  town  hall,  about 
12  churches,  several  public  and  private  schools,  2  female  colleges,  and 
5  newspaper  offices.  The  Wabash  is  here  crossed  by  a  fine  bridge. 
The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water.  It  is  gov- 
erned by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  16,103. 

Terre  Haute  offers  great  inducements  to  manufacturers.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  extensive  coal-fields,  and  building  stone  and  iron  ore  of  a 
superior  quality  lie  close  by.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade, 
having  railway  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  country,  and 
being  one  of  the  principal  shipping  points  on  the  Wabash  and  Erie 
Canal.  Large  quantities  of  pork,  grain,  and  flour  are  annually 
exported. 

Terre  Haute  was  first  settled  in  1816,  since  which  time  it  has  grown 
steadily. 

MISCELLANY. 

THE  MEETING  OF  GENERAL   HARRISON  AND   TECUMSEH. 

In  the  spring  of  1810,  General  Harrison,  being  Governor  of  the  Northwestern 
Territory,  and  residing  at  Vincennes — the  seat  of  Government — had  learned  from 
various  quarters  that  Tecumseh  had  been  visiting  the  different  Indian  tribes, 
scattered  along  the  valleys  of  the  Wabash  and  Illinois,  with  a  view  of  forming  an 
alliance  and  making  common  cause  against  the  whites,  and  that  there  was  great 
probability  that  his  mission  had  been  successful.  Aware,  as  he  was,  that  if  this 
was  the  case,  and  that  if  the  combination  had  been  formed,  such  as  was  repre- 
sented, the  settlements  in  the  southern  portion  of  Indiana  and  Illinois  were  in 
great  danger  ;  that  Vincennes  itself  would  be  the  first  object  of  attack,  and  that, 
with  a  handful  of  troops  in  the  territory,  a  successful  resistance  might  not  be 
made  ;  and  not  probably  fully  aware  of  the  extent  of  the  organization  attempted 
by  Tecumseh,  and  desirous  of  avoiding,  if  he  could,  the  necessity  of  a  call  to 
arms,  he  sent  a  message  to  him,  then  residing  at  the  "  Prophet's  Town,"  inviting 


INDIANA.  855 

him  to  a  council,  to  be  held  at  as  early  a  period  as  possible,  for  the  purpose  of 
talking  over  and  amicably  settling  all  difficulties  which  might  exist  between  the 
whites  and  the  Shawnees.  It  was  not  until  the  month  of  August  of  the  same 
year,  that  Tecumseh,  accompanied  by  about  70  of  his  warriors,  made  his  appear- 
ance. They  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  Wabash,  just  above  the  town,  and 
Tecumseh  gave  notice  to  the  Governor  that,  in  pursuance  of  his  invitation,  he 
had  come  to  hold  a  talk  "with  him  and  his  braves."  The  succeeding  day  was 
appointed  for  the  meeting.  The  Governor  made  all  suitable  preparations  for  it. 
The  officers  of  the  territory  and  the  leading  citizens  of  the  town  were  invited  to 
be  present,  while  a  portion  of  a  company  of  militia  was  detailed  as  a  guard — fully 
armed  and  equipped  for  any  emergency.  Notice  had  been  sent  to  Tecumseh, 
previous  to  the  meeting,  that  it  was  expected  that  himself  and  a  portion  of  his 
principal  warriors  would  be  present  at  the  council.  The  council  was  held  in  the 
open  lawn  before  the  Governor's  house,  in  a  grove  of  trees  which  then  sur- 
rounded it.  But  two  of  these,  I  regret  to  say,  are  now  remaining.  At  the  time 
appointed,  Tecumseh  and  some  15  or  20  of  his  warriors  made  their  appearance. 
With  a  firm  and  elastic  step,  and  with  a  proud  and  somewhat  defiant  look,  he 
advanced  to  the  place  where  the  Governor  and  those  who  had  been  invited  to  at- 
tend the  conference  were  sitting.  This  place  had  been  fenced  in,  with  a  view  of 
preventing  the  crowd  from  encroaching  upon  the  council  during  its  deliberations. 
As  he  stepped  forward,  he  seemed  to  scan  the  preparations  which  had  been  made 
for  his  reception,  particularly  the  military  part  of  it,  with  an  eye  of  suspicion — by 
no  means,  however,  of  fear.  As  he  came  in  front  of  the  dais,  an  elevated  portion 
of  the  place,  upon  which  the  Governor  and  the  officers  of  the  territory  were 
seated,  the  Governor  invited  him,  through  his  interpreter,  to  come  forward  and 
take  a  seat  with  him  and  his  counsellors,  premising  the  invitation  by  saying : 
"That  it  was  the  wish  of  their  '  Great  Father,'  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
that  he  should  do  so."  The  chief  paused  for  a  moment,  as  the  words  were  ut- 
tered and  the  sentence  finished,  and  raising  his  tall  form  to  its  greatest  height, 
surveyed  the  troops  and  the  crowd  around  him.  Then,  with  his  keen  eyes  fixed 
upon  the  Governor  for  a  single  moment,  and  turning  them  to  the  sky  above,  with 
his  sinewy  arm  pointing  toward  the  heavens,  and  with  a  tone  and  manner  indi- 
cative of  supreme  contempt  for  the  paternity  assigned  him,  said,  in  a  voice  whose 
clarion  tone  was  heard  throughout  the  whole  assembly : 

"  My  Father  ?— The  sun  is  my  father— the  earth  is  my  mother— and  on  her 
bosom  I  will  recline."  Having  finished,  he  stretched  himself  with  his  warriors 
on  the  greensward.  The  effect,  it  is  said,  was  elect  rim],  and  for  some  moments 
there  was  perfect  silence. 

The  Governor,  through  the  interpreter,  tlien  informed  him,  "that  he  had  un- 
derstood he  had  complaints  to  make,  and  redress  to  ask,  for  certain  wrongs 
which  he  (Tecumseh)  supposed  had  been  done  his  tribe,  as  well  as  the  others ; 
that  he  felt  disposed  to  listen  to  the  one  and  make  satisfaction  for  the  other,  if  it 
was  proper  that  he  should  do  so.  That  in  all  his  intercourse  and  negotiations 
with  the  Indians,  he  had  endeavored  to  act  justly  and  honorably  with  them,  and 
believed  he  had  done  so,  and  had  learned  of  no  complaint  of  his  conduct  until  he 
learned  that  Tecumseh  was  endeavoring  to  create  dissatisfaction  toward  the  Gov- 
ernment, not  only  among  the  Shawnees,  but  among  the  other  tribes  dwelling  on 
the  Wabash  and  Illinois ;  and  had,  in  so  doing,  produced  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
between  them  and  the  whites,  by  averring  that  the  tribes  whose  land  the  Govern- 
ment had  lately  purchased,  had  no  right  to  sell,  nor  their  chiefs  any  authority  to 


856  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

convey.  That  he,  the  Governor,  had  invited  him  to  attend  the  council,  with  a 
view  of  learning  from  his  own  lips,  whether  there  was  any  truth  in  the  reports 
which  he  had  heard,  and  to  learn  whether  he,  or  his  tribe,  had  any  just  cause  of 
complaint  against  the  whites,  and,  if  so,  as  a  man  and  a  warrior,  openly  to  avow 
it.  That  as  between  himself  and  as  great  a  warrior  as  Tecumseh  there  should  be 
no  concealment — all  should  be  done  by  them  under  a  clear  sky,  and  in  an  open 
path,  and  with  these  feelings  on  his  own  part,  he  was  glad  to  meet  him  in  coun- 
cil." Tecumseh  arose  as  soon  as  the  Governor  had  finished.  Those  who  knew 
him  speak  of  him  as  one  of  the  most  splendid  specimens  of  his  tribe — celebrated 
for  their  physical  proportions  and  tine  forms,  even  among  the  nations  who  sur- 
rounded them.  Tall,  athletic,  and  manly,  dignified,  but  graceful,  he  seemed  the 
beau  ideal  of  an  Indian  chieftain.  In  a  voice  first  low,  but,  with  all  its  indis- 
tinctness, musical,  he  commenced  his  reply.  As  he  warmed  with  his  subject,  his 
clear  tones  might  be  heard,  as  if  "  trumpet-tongued,"  to  the  utmost  limits  of  the 
assembled  crowd  who  surrounded  him.  The  most  perfect  silence  prevailed,  ex- 
cept when  the  warriors  who  surrounded  him  gave  their  guttural  assent  to  some 
eloquent  recital  of  the  red  man's  wrong  and  the  white  man's  injustice.  Well  in- 
structed in  the  traditions  of  his  tribe,  fully  acquainted  with  their  history,  the 
councils,  treaties,  and  battles  of  the  two  races  for  half  a  century,  he  recapitulated 
the  wrongs  of  the  red  man  from  the  massacre  of  the  Moravian  Indians,  during 
the  Revolutionary  war,  down  to  the  period  he  had  met  the  Governor  in  council. 
He  told  him  "  he  did  not  know  how  he  could  ever  again  be  the  friend  of  the 
white  man."  In  reference  to  the  public  domam,  he  asserted  "that  the  Great 
Spirit  had  given  all  the  country  from  the  Miami  to  the  Mississippi,  from  the  lakes 
to  the  Ohio,  as  a  common  property  to  all  the  tribes  that  dwelt  within  those  bor- 
ders, and  that  the  laud  could  not,  and  should  not  be  sold  without  the  consent  of 
all.  That  all  the  tribes  on  the  continent  formed  but  one  nation.  That  if  the 
United  States  would  not  give  up  the  lands  they  had  bought  of  the  Miamis,  the 
Delawares,  the  Potawatomies,  and  other  tribes,  that  those  united  with  him  were 
determined  to  fall  on  those  tribes  and  annihilate  them.  That  they  were  deter- 
mined to  have  no  more  chiefs,  but  in  future  to  be  governed  by  their  warriors. 
That  their  tribes  had  been  driven  toward  the  setting  sun,  like  a  galloping  horse 
(Ne-kat-a-cush-e  Ka-top-o-lin-to).  That  for  himself  and  his  warriors,  he  had  de- 
termined to  resist  all  further  aggressions  of  the  whites,  and  that  with  his  consent, 
or  that  of  the  Shawnees,  they  should  never  acquire  another  foot  of  land."  To 
those  who  have  never  heard  of  the  Shawnee  language,  I  may  here  remark  it  is 
the  most  musical  and  euphonious  of  all  the  Indian  languages  of  the  West.  When 
spoken  rapidly  by  a  fluent  speaker,  it  sounds  more  like  the  scanning  of  Greek 
and  Latin  verse,  than  anything  I  can  compare  it  to.  The  effect  of  this  address, 
of  which  I  have  simply  given  the  outline,  and  which  occupied  an  hour  in  the  de- 
livery, may  be  readily  imagined. 

William  Henry  Harrison  was  as  brave  a  man  as  ever  lived.  All  who  knew 
him  will  acknowledge  his  courage,  moral  and  physical,  but  he  was  wholly  unpre- 
pared for  such  a  speech  as  this.  There  was  a  coolness,  an  independence,  a  defi- 
ance in  the  whole  manner  and  matter  of  the  chieftain's  speech  which  astonished 
even  him.  He  knew  Tecumseh  well.  He  had  learned  to  appreciate  his  high 
qualities  as  a  man  and  warrior.  He  knew  his  power,  his  skill,  his  influence,  not 
only  over  his  own  tribe,  but  over-  those  who  dwelt  on  the  waters  of  the  Wabash 
and  Illinois.  He  knew  he  was  no  braggart — that  what  he  said  he  meant — what 
he  promised  he  intended  to  perform.  He  was  fully  aware  that  he  was  a  foe  not 


INDIANA.  857 

to  be  treated  light — an  enemy  to  be  conciliated,  not  scorned — one  to  be  met  with 
kindness,  not  contempt.  There  was  a  stillness  throughout  the  assembly  when 
Tecumseh  had  done  speaking  which  was  painful.  Not  a  whisper  was  to  be 
heard — all  eyes  were  turned  from  the  speaker  to  the  Governor.  The  unwarranted 
and  unwarrantable  pretensions  of  the  chief,  and  the  bold  and  defiant  tone  in 
which  he  had  announced  them,  staggered  even  him.  It  was  some  moments  be- 
fore he  arose.  Addressing  Tecumseh,  who  had  taken  his  seat  with  his  warriors, 
he  said  :  "  That  the  charges  of  bad  faith  made  against  the  Government,  and  the 
assertion  that  injustice  had  been  done  the  Indians  in  any  treaty  ever  made,  or 
any  council  ever  held  with  them  by  the  United  States,  had  no  foundation  in  fact. 
That  in  all  their  dealings  with  the  red  man,  they  had  ever  been  governed  by  the 
strictest  rules  of  right  and  justice.  That  while  other  civilized  nations  had  treated 
them  with  contumely  and  contempt,  ours  had  always  acted  hi  good  faith  with 
them.  That  so  far  as  he  individually  was  concerned,  he  could  say,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  'Great  Spirit,'  who  was  watching  over  their  deliberations,  that  his 
conduct,  even  with  the  most  insignificant  tribe,  had  been  marked  with  kindness, 
and  all  his  acts  governed  by  honor,  integrity,  and  fair  dealing.  That  he  had 
uniformly  been  the  friend  of  the  red  man,  and  that  it  was  the  first  time  in  his  life 
that  his  motives  had  been  questioned  or  his  actions  impeached.  It  was  the  first 
time  in  his  life  that  he  had  ever  heard  such  unfounded  claims  put  forth,  as  Te- 
cumseh had  set  up,  by  any  chief,  or  any  Indian,  having  the  least  regard  for 
truth,  or  the  slightest  knowledge  of  the  intercourse  between  the  Indian  and  the 
white  man,  from  the  time  this  continent  was  first  discovered."  What  the  Gover- 
nor had  said  thus  far  had  been  interpreted  by  Barron,  the  interpreter  to  the 
Shawnees,  and  he  was  about  interpreting  it  to  the  Miamis  and  Potawatomies, 
who  formed  part  of  the  cavalcade,  when  Tecumseh,  addressing  the  interpreter  in 
Shawnee,  said,  "  He  lies  !  "  Barron,  who  had,  as  all  subordinates  (especially  in 
the  Indian  department)  have,  a  great  reverence  and  respect  for  the  "powers  that 
be,"  commenced  interpreting  the  language  of  Tecumseh  to  the  Governor,  but 
not  exactly  in  the  terms  made  use  of,  when  Tecumseh,  who  understood  but  little 
English,  perceived  from  his  embarrassment  and  awkwardness,  that  he  was  not 
giving  his  words,  interrupted  him,  and,  again  addressing  him  in  Shawnee,  said : 
"No,  no  ;  tell  him  he  lies.'1''  The  guttural  assent  of  his  party  showed  they  coin- 
cided with  their  chief's  opinion.  General  Gibson,  Secretary  of  the  Territory, 
who  understood  Shawnee,  had  not  been  an  inattentive  spectator  of  the  scene,  and 
understanding  the  import  of  the  language  made  use  of,  and  from  the  excited  state 
of  Tecumseh  and  his  party,  was  apprehensive  of  violence,  made  a  signal  to  the 
troops  in  attendance  to  shoulder  their  arms  and  advance.  They  did  so.  The 
speech  of  Tecumseh  was  literally  translated  to  the  Governor.  He  directed  Barron 
to  say  to  him,  "he  would  hold  no  further  council  with  him,"  and  the  meeting 
broke  up. 

One  can  hardly  imagine  a  more  exciting  scene — one  which  would  be  a  finer 
subject  for  an  "historical  painting,"  to  adorn  the  rotunda  of  the  Capitol.  On 
the  succeeding  day,  Tecumseh  requested  another  interview  with  the  Governor, 
which  was  granted  on  condition  that  he  should  make  an  apology  to  the  Governor 
for  his  language  the  day  before.  This  he  made  through  the  interpreter.  Measures 
for  defence  and  protection  were,  however,  taken,  lest  there  should  be  another 
ontbreak.  Two  companies  of  militia  were  ordered  from  the  country,  and  the  one 
in  town  added  to  them,  while  the  Governor  and  his  friends  went  into  council 
fully  armed  and  prepared  for  any  contingency.  The  conduct  of  Tecumseh  upon 


858  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

this  occasion  was  entirely  different  from  that  of  the  day  before.  Firm  and  in- 
trepid, showing  not  the  slightest  fear  or  alarm,  surrounded  as  he  was  with  the 
military  force  quadrupling  his  own,  he  preserved  the  utmost  composure  and 
equanimity.  No  one  could  have  discerned  from  his  looks,  although  he  must  have 
fully  understood  the  object  of  calling  in  the  troops,  that  he  was  in  the  slightest 
degree  disconcerted.  He  was  cautious  in  his  bearing,  dignified  in  his  manner, 
and  no  one  from  observing  him  would  for  a  moment  have  supposed  he  was  the 
principal  actor  in  the  thrilling  scene  of  the  previous  day. 

In  the  interval  between  the  sessions  of  the  first  and  second  council,  Tecumseh 
had  told  Barron,  the  interpreter,  "  that  he  had  been  informed  by  the  whites,  that 
the  people  of  the  Territory  were  almost  equally  divided,  half  in  favor  of  Tecum- 
seh, and  the  other  adhering  to  the  Governor."  The  same  statement  he  made  in 
council.  He  said  "that  two  Americans  had  made  him  a  visit,  one  in  the  course 
of  the  preceding  winter,  the  other  lately,  and  informed  him  that  Governor  Harri- 
son had  purchased  land  from  the  Indians  without  any  authority  from  the  Gov- 
ernment, and  that  one  half  of  the  people  were  opposed  to  the  purchase.  He  also 
told  the  Governor  that  he,  Harrison,  had  but  two  years  more  to  remain  in  office, 
and  that  he,  Tecumseh,  could  prevail  upon  the  Indians  who  sold  the  lands  not  to 
receive  their  annuities  for  that  time  ;  that  when  the  Governor  was  displaced,  as 
he  would  be,  and  a  good  man  appointed  as  his  successor,  he  would  restore  to  the 
Indians  all  the  lands  purchased  from  them."  After  Tecumseh  had  concluded  his 
speech,  a  Wyandotte,  a  Kickapoo,  a  Potawatomie,  an  Ottawa,  and  a  Winnebago 
chief,  severally  spoke,  and  declared  that  their  tribes  had  entered  into  the  "  Shaw- 
nee  Confederacy,"  and  would  support  the  principles  laid  down  by  Tecumseh, 
whom  they  had  appointed  their  leader. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  council,  the  Governor  informed  Tecumseh  that  "he 
would  immediately  transmit  his  speech  to  the  President,  and  as  soon  as  his  answer 
was  received,  would  send  it  to  him  ;  but,  as  a  person  had  been  appointed  to  run 
the  boundary  line  of  the  new  purchase,  he  wished  to  know  whether  there  would 
be  danger  in  his  proceeding  to  run  the  line."  Tecumseh  replied,  "that  he  and 
his  allies  were  determined  that  the  old  boundary  line  should  continue,  and  that 
if  the  whites  crossed  it,  it  would  be  at  their  peril."  The  Governor  replied, 
"that  since  Tecumseh  had  been  thus  candid  in  stating  his  determination,  he 
would  be  equally  so  with  him.  The  President,  he  was  convinced,  would  never 
allow  that  the  lands  on  the  Wabash  were  the  property  of  any  other  tribes  than 
those  who  had  occupied  them  and  lived  on  them  since  the  white  people  came  to 
America.  And  as  the  title  to  the  lands  lately  purchased  was  derived  from  those 
tribes  by  fair  purchase,  he  might  rest  assured  that  the  right  of  the  United  States 
would  be  supported  by  .the  sword." 

"So  be  it,"  was  the  stern  and  haughty  reply  of  the  Shawnee  chieftain,  as 
he  and  his  braves  took  leave  of  the  Governor  and  wended  their  way  in  Indian  file 
to  their  camping  ground.  And  thus  ended  the  last  conference  on  earth  between 
Hie  chivalrous  and  gallant  Tecumseh,  the  Shawnee  chief,  and  he  who  since  the 
period  alluded  to  has  ruled  the  destinies  of  the  nation  as  its  Chief  Magistrate. 
The  bones  of  the  first  lie  bleaching  on  the  battle  field  of  the  Thames— those  of 
the  last  are  deposited  in  the  mausoleum  that  covers  them  on  the  banks  of  the 
Ohio. 


ILLINOIS. 

Area,      55,410  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860 1,711,951 

Population  in  1870, 2,539,891 

THE  State  of  Illinois  is  situated  between  37°  and  42°  30'  N.  lati- 
tude, and  between  87°  30'  and  91°  40'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Wisconsin,  on  the  east  by  Lake  Michigan  and  Indiana, 
on  the  south  by  Kentucky,  and  on  the  west  by  Missouri  and  Iowa. 
It  is  separated  from  Kentucky  by  the  Ohio,  and  from  Missouri  and 
Iowa  by  the  Mississippi.  One  half  of  the  eastern  part  is  divided 
from  Indiana  by  the  Wabash. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

There  is  a  hilly  region  in  the  southern  part,  and  some  rugged 
country  in  the  northwest ;  but  as  a  general  rule,  the  surface  of  Illinois 
is  level,  consisting  in  many  parts  of  gently  undulating  prairies,  which 
are  covered  with  a  luxuriant  grass  and  an  abundance  of  beautiful 
wild  flowers.  They  also  abound  in  wild  fowl.  Says  a  recent  writer: 

"  The  great  landscape  feature  of  Illinois  is  its  prairies,  which  are 
seen  in  almost  every  section  of  the  State.  The  want  of  variety, 
which  is  ordinarily  essential  to  landscape  attraction,  is  more  than 
compensated  for  in  the  prairie  scenery,  as  in  that  of  the  boundless 
ocean,  by  the  impressive  qualities  of  immensity  and  power.  Far  as 
the  most  searching  eye  can  reach,  the  great  unvarying  plain  rolls  on ; 
its  sublime  grandeur  softened  but  not  weakened  by  the  occasional 
groups  of  trees  in  its  midst,  or  by  the  forests  on  its  verge,  or  by  the 
countless  flowers  everywhere  upon  its  surface.  The  prairies  abound 
in  game.  The  prairie  duck,  sometimes  but  improperly  called  grouse, 

859 


860  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

are  most  abundant  in  September  and  October,  when  large  numbers 
are  annually  taken.  Perhaps  the  most  striking  picture  of  the  prairie 
country  is  to  be  found  on  Grand  Prairie.  Its  gently  undulating 
plains,  profusely  decked  with  flowers  of  every  hue,  and  skirted  on  all 
sides  by  woodland  copse,  roll  on  through  many  long  miles  from  Jack- 
son county,  northeast  to  Iroquois  county,  with  a  width  varying  from 
one  to  a  dozen  or  more  miles.  The  uniform  level  of  the  prairie  region 
is  supposed  to  result  from  the  deposit  of  waters  by  which  the  land 
was  ages  ago  covered.  The  soil  is  entirely  free  from  stones,  and  is 
extremely  fertile.  The  most  notable  characteristic  of  the  prairies, 
their  destitution  of  vegetation,  excepting  in  the  multitude  of  rank 
grasses  and  flowers,  will  gradually  disappear,  since  nothing  prevents 
the  growth  of  the  trees  but  the  continual  fires  which  sweep  over  the 
plains.  These  prevented,  a  fine  growth  of  timber  soon  springs  up  • 
and  as  the  woodlands  are  thus  assisted  in  encroaching  upon  and 
occupying  the  plains,  settlements,  and  habitations  will  follow,  until 
the  prairie  tracts  are  overrun  with  cities  and  towns.  Of  the  thirty- 
five  and  a  half  millions  of  acres  embraced  within  the  State,  but 
thirteen  millions,  or  little  more  than  one-third,  were  improved  in 
1860,  showing  that  despite  her  wonderful  progress  in  population  and 
production,  she  is  yet  only  in  her  infancy.  Excepting  the  specialty 
of  the  prairie,  the  most  interesting  landscape  scenery  of  this  State  is 
that  of  the  bold,  acclivitous  river  shores  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Ohio, 
and  the  Illinois  rivers."  * 

Lake  Michigan  forms  the  northern  part  of  the  eastern  boundary. 
Chicago,  the  principal  city,  is  situated  near  the  southern  end  of  the 
lake,  and  possesses  a  very  large  lake  trade.  The  other  towns  on 
Lake  Michigan  are,  Otsego,  Waukegan,  Rockland,  and  Evanston. 

The  Mississippi  River  forms  the  western  boundary  of  this  State, 
and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Rock,  Illinois,  and  Kaskaskia  rivers, 
besides  those  of  several  smaller  streams.  The  important  places  on 
the  Mississippi,  beginning  on  the  north,  are  Galena,  Rock  Island, 
Oquawka,  Quincy,  Alton,  East  St.  Louis,  and  Thebes.  The  Ohio 
River  forms  the  southern  boundary,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi, 
at  the  extreme  southern  end  of  the  State.  The  city  of  Cairo  is 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  these  two  rivers,  and  is  an  important 
place.  The  Illinois  River  is  the  largest  in  the  State.  It  is  formed  by 
the  confluence  of  the  Des  Plaines  and  Kankakee,  which  unite  at 

*,Appleton's  Hand-Book  of  American  Travel. 


ILLINOIS.  861 

Dresden,  in  Grundy  county,  southwest  of  Lake  Michigan.  It  flows 
across  the  State  in  a  southwestern  direction,  and  empties  into  the 
Mississippi  about  20  miles  from  Alton.  It  is  about  320  miles  long, 
and  has  been  rendered  navigable  at  all  seasons,  to  Ottawa,  286  miles 
from  the  Mississippi.  Peoria,  200  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  the  most 
important  town  on  the  river.  The  Fox  and  Sangamon  rivers  are  its 
principal  branches.  The  former  rises  in  Wisconsin,  and  is  200  miles 
long.  It  is  a  fine  mill-stream  ;  the  latter  rises  in  the  .cast-central  part 
of  the  State,  and  flows  west  into  the  Illinois.  It  is  200  miles  long, 
and  is  navigable  at  high  water  for  small  steamers.  The  Rock  River 
rises  in  Fond  du  Lac  county,  in  Wisconsin,  about  10  miles  south 
of  Lake  Winnebago,  and  flows  southward  into  Illinois,  near  the 
centre  of  the  northern  part  of  the  State.  It  then  turns  to  the  south- 
west and  flows  across  the  State  into  the  Mississippi,  at  Rock  Island 
City.  It  is  330  miles  long,  and  though  interrupted  in  several  places 
by  rapids,  could  be  rendered  navigable  at  a  small  expense ;  steamers 
have  ascended  it  to  Jefferson,  Wisconsin,  225  miles.  It  flows  through 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile  portions  of  Illinois.  The  Kas- 
kaskia  River  rises  in  Champaign  county,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
centre  of  the  State,  and  flows  southwest  into  the  Mississippi  a  few 
miles  below  the  town  of  Kaskaslda.  It  is  300  miles  long,  and  is 
navigable  for  steamers  for  a  considerable  distance.  The  Vermilion, 
EmbarraSj  and  Little  Wabash  rivers,  small  streams,  flow  into  the 
Wabash  from  this  State. 

Several  small  lakes  lie  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State. 

MINERALS. 

There  are  extensive  deposits  of  lead  in  the  extreme  northwestern 
part  of  this  State,  and  extending  into  Wisconsin  and  Iowa.  The 
principal  mines  lie  in  the  vicinity  of  Galena.  Copper  exists  in  large 
quantities  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State.  Bituminous  coal  abounds. 
Iron  is  also  found  in  abundance  in  the  north,  and  to  a  limited  extent 
in  the  south,  and  it  is  said  that  silver  has  been  discovered  in  St.  Clair 
county.  There  are  a  number  of  salt  springs  in  the  State,  and  a 
variety  of  medicinal  springs.  The  other  minerals  are  zinc,  lime, 
marble,  freestone,  gypsum,  and  quartz  crystals. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  not  very  severe,  but  is  subject  to  sudden  changes. 
Deep  snows  are  not  of  general  occurrence,  but  occasionally  take  place, 
and  at  long  intervals  the  rivers  are  frozen  over. 


862  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

Illinois  is  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  States  in  the  Confederacy. 
"The  soils  are  all  highly  fertile  and  productive.  In  the  bottoms,  or  al- 
luvial borders  of  the  rivers,  the  soil  is  chiefly  formed  from  the  de- 
posits of  water  during  flood.  In  some  cases  the  mould  so  formed  is 
twenty-five  feet  and  upward  in  depth,  and  of  inexhaustible  fertility. 
A  tract  called  the  '  American  Bottom/  extending  along  the  Missis- 
sippi for  ninety  miles,  and  about  five  miles  in  average  width,  is  of  this 
formation.  About  the  French  towns  it  has  been  cultivated,  and  pro- 
duced Indian  corn  every  year,  without  manuring,  for  a  century  and  a 
half.  The  prairie  lands,  although  not  so  productive,  are  yet  not  in- 
ferior for  many  agricultural  purposes,  and  are  preferred,  where  wood 
is  to  be  had,  on  account  of  their  superior  salubrity.  The  barrens,  or 
oak  openings,  have  frequently  a  thin  soil." 

The  agricultural  wealth  of  the  State  is  thus  summed  up  in  the  Re- 
port of  the  General  Land  Office  for  1867  : 

"In  1850,  Illinois  had  76,208  farms,  valued  at  ?96,133,290;  in 
1860,  144,338,  valued  at  $408,944,033.  The  quantity  of  land  in 
farms  increased  about  77  per  cent,  during  the  decade,  the  improved 
land  165  per  cent.,  the  cash  value  of  farms  about  325,  and  the  value 
of  farming  implements  and  machinery  nearly  200  per  cent. 

"The  value  of  live  stock  in  1850  was  $24,209,258 ;  in  1860,  $72,- 
501,225;  and  in  1865,  according  to  the  State  returns,  it  had  advanced 
to  $123,770,554,  showing  an  increase,  during  the  ten  years  following 
1850,  of  200  per  cent.,  or  20  per  cent,  per  annum,  and  70  per  cent,  for 
the  five  years  following  1860,  or  14  per  cent,  per  annum. 

"New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Ohio  are  the  only  States  making 
larger  quantities  of  butter ;  and,  in  the  value  of  slaughtered  animals, 
Illinois  is  exceeded  only  by  New  York. 

"In  1860,  Illinois  produced  23,837,023  bushels  of  wheat,  and  115,- 
174,777  bushels  of  Indian  corn,  being  14  bushels  of  wheat  and  67 
bushels  of  Indian  corn  to  every  man,  woman,  and  child. 

"  The  State  surpassed  all  others  in  wheat  and  corn  products,  there 
having  been  cultivated  upon  its  soil  nearly  one-seventh  of  the  entire 
wheat  and  corn  crop  of  the  United  States.  In  1865,  177,095,852 
bushels  of  Indian  corn  were  produced,  and  25,266,745  bushels  of 
wheat.  The  entire  grain  crop  in  1865,  including  Indian  corn,  wheat, 
rye,  oats,  barley,  and  buckwheat,  amounted  to  232,620,1 73  bushels.  The 
crop  of  potatoes  was  5,864,408  bushels,  tobacco,  18,867,722  pounds,  and 


ILLINOIS.  863 

hay,  2,600,000  tons,  the  whole  amounting  in  value  to  $116,274,322. 
Besides  this,  there  were  produced  in  1865,  5,000,000  pounds  of 
cotton,  a  branch  of  industry  just  beginning  to  receive  attention,  yet 
already  pronounced  one  of  the  most  profitable  crops  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  State ;  also  large  quantities  of  grass-seeds,  maple  and 
sorghum  sugar  and  molasses,  flax,  flaxseed,  hemp,  hops,  silk  cocoons, 
bees-wax,  honey,  wine,  butter  and  cheese,  peas  and  beans.  The  wool 
clip  in  1865  was  over  6,000,000  pounds;  orchard  products  of  the 
value  of  $2,000,000,  and  market  $500,000. 

"The  year  1865  was  unfavorable  for  wheat  in  Ohio,  Indiana  and 
Illinois,  the  yield  in  each  being  less  than  either  1862,  1863,  or  1864. 
Illinois  then  produced  32,213,500  bushels. 

"  In  every  year  since  1860,  the  State  has  maintained  a  position  as  the 
leading  wheat  and  corn-growing  region,  while  the  product  of  other 
staples  is  annually  increasing." 

In  1869  the  principal  returns  were  as  follows: 

Bushels  of  wheat, 29,200,000 

Indian  corn, 121,500,000 

"           oats, 35,726,000 

"           Irish  potatoes, 7,500,000 

"           rye, 675,000 

buckwheat, 251,000 

barley,        1,250,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 28,052,551 

Tons  of  hay, 2,800,000 

Number  of  horses, 1,340,320 

mules  and  asses, 99,450 

milch  cows, 850,340 

sheep, .  1,340,120 

swine 3,502,820 

young  cattle, 2,320,500 

Value  of  domestic  animals,    .......  $100,501,270 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Illinois  possesses  a  large  lake  and  river  trade,  dealing  principally  in 
agricultural  products.  The  grain  trade  of  Chicago  is  immense  ;  the 
lumber  trade  is  also  important,  and  Chicago  is  at  present  the  principal 
pork  market  of  the  Republic. 

Manufactures  occupy  a  secondary  place  in  Illinois.  In  1860,  the 
State  contained  4100  establishments  devoted,  to  manufactures,  mining, 
and  the  mechanic  arts.  They  employed  a  capital  of  $27, 700,000,  and 
24,370  hands;  consumed  raw  material  worth  $33,800,000,  and 
yielded  an  annual  product  of  $56,750,000. 


864  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

Illinois  is  one  of  the  foremost  States  in  the  Union  in  respect  to  its 
internal  improvements.  In  1872,  there  were  5904  miles  of  completed 
railroads  in  the  State,  constructed  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $200,000,000. 
The  Report  of  the  General  Land  Office  for  1867  thus  refers  to  the  in- 
ternal improvements  of  this  State  : 

"  The  railroad  system  is  on  a  scale  commensurate  with  its  advanta- 
geous position  in  respect  to  agriculture  and  internal  commerce;  3160 
miles  are  completed,  and  now  in  operation,  812  miles  more  are  in 
course  of  construction,  making  in  the  aggregate  3979  miles,  or  one 
mile  of  railroad  to  14  square  miles  of  territory.  Eight  lines  cross  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  State,  and  the  Mississippi  River  is  ap- 
proached within  the  State  by  thirteen,  connecting  with  the  east  and 
west  through  routes  across  the  States  of  Missouri  and  Iowa,  and 
northern  routes  through  Wisconsin  and  Minnesota,  westward  to 
the  Pacific,  and  eastward  to  the  great  trade  marts  of  the  Atlantic 
coast.  In  addition  to  the  facilities  thus  afforded  to  commerce,  a  canal 
has  been  constructed  from  Lake  Michigan,  at  Chicago,  to  La  Salle, 
on  the  Illinois  River,  100  miles  in  length,  affording  communication 
by  water  between  the  lake  and  the  Mississippi.  The  canal  is  now 
being  enlarged  by  deepening  its  channel  to  accommodate  large  class 
vessels,  so  that  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan  will  flow  through  to  the 
Illinois  River,  the  bed  of  which  is  improved  so  as  to  establish  unin- 
terrupted steam  navigation  at  all  seasons  from  the  Mississippi,  by  way 
of  the  lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  to  the  Atlantic." 

EDUCATION. 

There  are  twenty-four  colleges  in  Illinois  ;  the  majority  of  them  are 
in  prosperous  condition.  Some  of  them  are  really  entitled  to  rank 
only  as  academies  and  seminaries. 

The  public  school  system  is  excellent.  There  is  a  permanent  school 
fund,  and  taxes  are  levied  for  the  support  of  the  schools.  In  1870, 
the  amount  thus  expended  in  the  State  was  $6,027,510.  In  the  same 
year  there  were  11,050  schools  in  the  State,  conducted  by  20,097 
teachers,  and  attended  by  677,623  children. 

The  State  Normal  University  is  located  at  Normal,  near  the  city  of 
Bloomington,  and  is  a  flourishing  institution,  amply  provided  with 
buildings  and  grounds.  At  the  close  of  the  regular  term,  a  Teachers' 


ILLINOIS.  865 

Institute  is  usually  held  for  two  weeks,  and  is  attended  by  hundreds 
of  teachers  from  all  parts  of  the  State. 

The  State  Industrial  University  is  located  at  Quincy.  It  was 
opened  in  1868,  and  has  a  good  number  of  students.  It  embraces 
the  following  schools :  Science,  Literature,  and  Arts ;  Agriculture ;  Me- 
chanical Science  and  Art ;  Military  Tactics  and  Engineering ;  Mining 
and  Metallurgy ;  Civil  Engineering  ;  Analytical  and  Applied  Chem- 
istry ;  Natural  History  and  Practical  Geology ;  Commercial  Science 
and  Art.  Students  may  choose  their  studies,  provided  they  are  suffi- 
ciently advanced  to  keep  up  with  the  regular  classes. 

The  educational  system  of  the  State  is  under  the  general  supervision 
of  a  State  Superintendent  of  Public  Schools,  who  is  elected  by  the 
people  for  four  years.  He  has  power  to  make  such  rules  as  he  may 
deem  necessary  for  the  government  of  the  schools,  and  his  construction 
of  existing  laws  upon  this  subject  must  be  accepted  by  his  subordi- 
nates. He  reports  once  in  two  years  to  the  Legislature.  Each 
county  is  in  charge  of  a  County  Superintendent,  who  is  required  to 
visit  the  schools  and  direct  their  general  operations.  He  reports  bi- 
ennially to  the  State  Superintendent.  Each  township  elects  its 
Trustees,  who  have  the  immediate  management  of  its  schools.  They 
report  once  in  two  years  to  the  County  Superintendent.  Each  Dis- 
trict has  three  Directors,  who  manage  the  finances  of  the  schools. 

All  teachers  are  required  to  possess  certificates  of  competency  from 
the  State  or  County  Superintendent.  A  County  Superintendent's 
certificate  is  good  for  two  years  in  the  county  in  which  it  is  issued. 
The  State  Superintendent's  certificate  is  good  in  any  part  of  Illinois 
during  the  life  of  its  holder. 

In  1870,  there  were  785  private  schools  in  Illinois,  attended  by 
90,152  pupils. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Joliet,  and  was  completed  in 
1868. 

"The  whole  area  of  land  pertaining  to  the  Penitentiary  is  72.19 
acres;  whole  area  within  main  wall,  16  acres;  the  main  wall  is  25 
feet  high  and  6  feet  thick ;  there  are  100  cells  for  separate  system,  7 
by  15  feet,  and  15  feet  high,  900  cells  for  congregate  system,  and  100 
cells  for  females,  4  by  7  feet,  and  7  feet  high.  Each  cell  has  a  dis- 
tinct ventilating  tube  extending  to  roof,  with  two  registers  in  each» 
All  partitions,  floors,  and  ceiling  of  cells  are  formed  each  of  one  stone^ 
55 


866  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

eight  inches  thick.  The  buildings  and  walls  stand  on  rock  foun- 
dation. All  the  buildings  and  grounds  are  supplied  with  pure 
water  from  a  spring  at  the  bluff;  the  buildings  are  warmed  by  steam  ; 
the  kitchen  and  wash  rooms  are  furnished  with  steam  and  other  cook- 
ing and  washing  fixtures  of  the  most  modern  and  approved  kinds. 
The  engines,  of  150  horse  power  each,  furnish  the  motive  power 
for  the  machinery,  running  nearly  1500  feet  of  heavy  line  shafting. 
Altogether,  it  is  one  of  the  most  complete  prisons  in  the  United  States, 
as  well  as  the  most  extensive  and  best  arranged  manufacturing  estab- 
lishment in  the  West.  Until  July,  1867,  the  labor  of  convicts  had 
been  farmed  out  to  contractors,  who  were  bound  to  meet  all  the  ex- 
penses of  the  prison.  At  that  date,  the  State  assumed  entire  control. 
A  Board  of  Commissioners  was  appointed  by  the  Governor,  and  this 
Board  selected  a  Warden,  who  has  the  general  management  of  the 
prison,  under  the  direction  of  the  Commissioners.  All  minors  under 
the  age  of  1 8,  except  for  the  crime  of  robbery,  burglary,  or  arson,  con- 
victed of  any  criminal  offence,  are  exempted  from  punishment  in  the 
Penitentiary.  They  may  be  fined  and  sent  to  county  jail,  or  either, 
for  misdemeanors,  but  for  higher  crimes  are  always  sent  to  the  county 
jail.  The  number  of  these  young  offenders  is  steadily  increasing  in 
the  State. "  * 

The  Illinois  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  the  Institution  for  the 
Education  of  the  Blind,  and  the  Institution  for  Idiots  and  Imbeciles, 
are  located  at  Jacksonville.  They  are  admirably  organized  and  con- 
ducted, and  are  furnished  with  commodious  buildings.  They  take 
rank  among  the  first  institutions  of  a  similar  nature  in  the  Union. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  3459  churches  in  Illinois.  The  value  of  church 
property  was  $22,664,283. 

LIBRARIES    AND    NEWSPAPERS. 

In  1870,  there  were  13,570  libraries  in  Illinois,  containing  3,323,- 
914  volumes.  Of  these,  over  5000  are  public  libraries. 

In  the  same  year  the  number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  pub- 
lished in  the  State  was  as  follows:  daily,  39;  semi-weekly,  4 ;  tri- 
weekly, 10 ;  weekly,  364  ;  miscellaneous,  88  ;  making  a  total  of  505, 
with  an  aggregate  annual  circulation  of  113,140,492  copies. 

*  American  Year  Book,  vol.  i.,  p.  321. 


ILLINOIS.  867 

FINANCES. 

On  the  30th  of  November,  1870,  the  State  debt  amounted  to 
$4,890,937,  with  $3,082,104  in  the  Treasury  applicable  to  its  pay- 
ment. The  receipts  of  the  treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  No- 
vember 30,  1868,  were  $2,276,763,  and  the  expenditures  $2,126,668. 
The  estimated  revenue  for  1871  is  $3,124,316. 

In  1868,  there  were  83  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $12,070,000 
doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  citizen,  21  years  old,  who  has  resided  in  the  State  one 
year,  and  in  the  county  ninety  days,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  government  of  the  State  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor,  and  Attorney- 
General,  and  a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  51  members 
chosen  for  four  years,  one-half  retiring  biennially),  and  a  House  of 
Representatives  (of  153  members,  chosen  for  two  years),  all  elected 
by  the  people.  All  the  State  officers,  except  the  Treasurer,  whose 
term  is  two  years,  are  chosen  for  four  years.  The  Legislature  meets 
annually  on  the  first  Monday  in  January. 

The  courts  of  the  State  are,  the  Supreme  Judicial  Court,  28  Cir- 
cuit Courts,  and  Justices'  Courts.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of 
three  divisions,  corresponding  to  the  three  divisions  of  the  State,  and 
has  appellate  jurisdiction  only.  The  city  of  Chicago  has  its  own 
courts. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Springfield. 

The  State  is  divided  into  102  counties. 

HISTORY. 

This  State  was  first  known  to  the  whites  by  the  name  of  "  The 
Illinois  Country,"  and  was  first  explored,  in  1673,  by  Marquette  (a 
missionary),  and  Joliet,  who  came  from  Canada,  and  were  followed  by 
La  Salle  and  Hennepin.  About  the  year  1693,  mission  stations  were 
established  by  the  French  at  Kaskaskia,  Cahokia,  and  Peoria. 
During  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  French  made 
several  settlements  on  the  lower  Mississippi,  and  a  Jesuit  monastery 
was  established  at  Kaskaskia.  Towards  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  the  British  began  to  advance  their  claims  to  the  Illinois 


868  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

country,  and  the  French  commenced  to  build  new  forts  and  strengthen 
the  old  ones  to  resist  them.  In  1763,  all  the  French  possessions 
east  of  the  Mississippi  were  ceded  to  Great  Britain,  who  thus  became 
mistress  of  the  Illinois  country. 

During  the  Revolution  the  British  had  posts  at  Kaskaskia,  Ca- 
hokia,  and  St.  Vincent  (the  latter  now  Yincennes,  Indiana).  They 
were  captured  by  General  Rogers  Clark,  the  American  commander 
in  this  region,  in  one  of  the  most  memorable  campaigns  in  our  history. 

In  1784,  Virginia  ceded  her  territory  northwest  of  the  Ohio  River 
(of  which  Illinois  then  formed  a  part)  to  the  United  States.  In  1800, 
the  Territory  of  Indiana  was  formed,  embracing  the  country  between 
the  State  of  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi,  and,  in  1809,  Illinois  was 
erected  into  a  separate  Territory,  with  its  present  name.  It  grew 
rapidly  in  population,  and  on  the  23d  of  December,  1818,  was  ad- 
mitted into  the  Union  as  a  sovereign  State. 

During  the  war  of  1812  the  settlers  suiFered  much  from  the  savages 
and  British.  In  the  year  1812,  Captain  Heald,  commanding  Fort 
Dearborn,  which  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Chicago,  was 
directed  by  General  Hull,  who  surrendered  Detroit  to  the  British,  to 
evacuate  that  post,  distribute  his  stores  among  the  Indians,  and  retire 
to  Fort  Wayne,  in  Indiana.  Captain  Heald  had  no  confidence  in  the 
savages,  and  threw  his  powder  into  the  wells,  and  poured  his  whiskey 
on  the  ground.  This  done,  he  abandoned  the  fort,  and  set  out  on 
his  march  to  Indiana.  The  savages  were  particularly  anxious  to 
obtain  the  powder  and  whiskey,  and  were  so  exasperated  at  failing 
to  secure  them  that  they  fell  upon  the  garrison  after  it  had  pro- 
ceeded two  miles  from  the  fort,  and  massacred  41  men,  2  women,  and 
12  children.  This  terrible  occurrence  for  a  long  time  cast  a  gloom 
over  the  Territory. 

In  1832,  during  the  prevalence  of  the  Black  Hawk  War,  the 
northern  part  of  the  State  suffered  much  from  the  depredations  of 
the  savages. 

In  1840,  the  Mormons,  being  driven  out  of  Missouri,  settled  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  in  this  State,  and  founded  a  city 
which  they  called  Nauvoo.  They  were  granted  extraordinary  privi- 
leges by  the  State,  but  were  the  object  of  the  bitter  hatred  of  the  in- 
habitants of  the  surrounding  country.  Several  conflicts  occurred  be- 
tween the  two  parties,  and  the  State  militia  was  called  out  to  preserve 
the  peace.  Joseph  Smith,  the  Mormon  leader  and  "  Prophet/'  and 
his  brother,  Hiram,  were  imprisoned  in  the  jail  at  Carthage,  where 


ILLINOIS. 


809 


STATE   HOUSE,    SPRINGFIELD. 


they  were  attacked  by  a  mob  and  assassinated,  on  the  27th  of  June, 
1844.  The  prisoners  were  at  the  time  under  the  protection  of  the 
State,  and  this  made  the  assassination  all  the  more  outrageous. 
Like  all  such  violent  acts,  it  failed  of  its  object,  and  made  the 
success  of  Mormonism  more  certain.  Soon  after  this,  the  Mormons 
abandoned  Nauvoo,  and  began  their  emigration  to  their  present  home 
in  Utah. 

During  the  late  war,  the  State  of  Illinois  furnished  (to  December 
1,  1864)  197,364  troops  to  the  service  of  the  United  States. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  Illinois  are, 
Chicago,  Peoria,  Quincy,  Bellville,  Alton,  Rockford,  Galena,  and 
Bloom  ington. 

SPRINGFIELD, 

The  capital  and  fourth  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Sangamon 
county,  3  miles  south  of  the  Sangamon  River,  97  miles  northeast  of 
St.  Louis,  and  188  miles  southwest  of  Chicago.  Latitude  39°  48' 
N.;  longitude  89°  33'  W.  The  city  lies  near  the  centre  of  the 
State,  and  is  built  on  the  open  prairie  which  surrounds  it  in  every 
direction.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  well  built.  The  streets  are 


870  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

wide  and  straight,  and  are  ornamented  with  shade  trees.  From  the 
abundance  of  its  shrubbery  and  floral  ornaments  Springfield  has  been 
called  "the  City  of  Flowers."  Many  of  the  residences  are  large 
and  handsome,  and  the  business  section  contains  numerous  showy 
buildings. 

The  State  House  is  an  elegant  structure,  and  stands  in  a  beautiful 
square  of  three  acres,  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  On  the  streets  facing 
the  square  are  the  various  public  buildings  of  the  State  and  city.  The 
Court  House  and  State  Arsenal  are  the  other  prominent  buildings. 
The  city  contains  about  13  churches,  several  public  and  private 
schools,  the  Illinois  State  University,  2  hotels,  and  5  newspaper  offices, 
and  is  lighted  with  gas.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council. 
In  1870,  the  population  was  17,365. 

Lying  in  a  country  unsurpassed  in  fertility,  Springfield  is  a  place  of 
considerable  commercial  importance.  It  has  railway  connections 
with  Chicago  and  St.  Louis,  and  with  all  parts  of  the  State  and  the 
West.  It  is  also  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  flour,  woollen  goods, 
and  iron  ware.  In  the  vicinity  are  extensive  beds  of  bituminous  coal. 

The  city  is  noted  as  having  been  the  home  of  the  late  President 
Lincoln.  In  the  picturesque  cemetery  of  Oak  Ridge,  two  miles  north 
of  the  city,  the  statesman  lies  buried. 

Springfield  was  first  settled  in  1819.  In  1822  it  was  formally  laid 
out,  and  in  1837  it  became  the  capital  of  the  State. 

CHICAGO, 

The  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  the  fifth  city  of  the  Republic  and  the 
second  city  of  the  Western  States.  It  is  situated  in  Cook  county, 
on  the  western  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  about  30  miles  north  of  its 
southern  end,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chicago  River,  on  the  margin  of  a 
prairie  several  miles  in  width.  It  is  188  miles  northeast  of  Spring- 
field, 285  miles  northeast  of  St.  Louis,  300  miles  northwest  of  Cincin- 
nati, 928  miles  northwest  of  New  York,  and  763  miles  northwest  of 
Washington. 

The  site  of  Chicago  is  low,  being  but  five  feet  above  the  lake,  but 
sufficiently  elevated  to  prevent  inundation.  "  The  general  direction 
of  the  lake  shore  here  is  north  and  south.  The  water,  except  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  is  shoal,  and  vessels,  missing  the  entrance  ground, 
go  to  pieces  in  a  storm  within  100  yards  of  the  shore.  The  harbor 
of  Chicago  is  the  river,  and  nothing  more.  It  is  a  short,  deep,  slug- 
glish  stream,  creeping  through  the  black,  fat  mud  of  the  prairie,  and 


ILLINOIS.  871 

in  some  places  would  hardly  be  thought  worthy  of  a  name ;  but  it 
makes  itself  wonderfully  useful  here.  Outside  of  its  mouth  a  vessel 
has  no  protection,  nor  are  there  any  piers  or  wharves.  The  mouth  of 
the  river  has  been  docked  and  dredged  out,  to  afford  a  more  easy 
entrance ;  but,  after  you  are  once  in,  it  narrows  to  a  mere  canal,  from 
50  to  75  yards  in  width.  The  general  course  of  the  river,  for  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile,  is  at  right  angles  with  the  lake  shore,  and  this 
portion  is  known  as  the  Chicago  River.  It  here  divides,  or  more 
properly,  two  branches  unite  to  form  it,  coming  from  opposite  direc- 
tions, and  at  nearly  right  angles  to  the  main  stream.  These  are  called, 
respectively,  the  '  North  Branch '  and  the  '  South  Branch/  and  are 
each  navigable  for  some  4  miles,  giving,  in  the  aggregate,  a  river  front 
of  some  15  or  16  miles,  capable  of  being  increased  by  canals  and  slips, 
some  of  which  have  already  been  constructed.  Into  the  l  South 
Branch '  comes  the  Illinois  Canal,  extending  from  this  point  100 
miles  to  La  Salle,  on  the  Illinois  River,  forming  water  communication 
between  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi.  For  the  want  of  a  map,  take 
the  letter  H ;  call  the  upright  column  on  the  right  hand  the  lake 
shore ;  let  the  cross-bar  represent  the  Chicago  River,  the  left  hand 
column  will  stand  for  the  two  branches,  and  you  have  a  plan  of  the 
water  lines  of  the  City  of  Chicago,  which  will  answer  very  well  for  all 
purposes  of  general  description.  The  general  divisions  thus  formed 
are  called,  respectively,  '  North  Side/  l  South  Side/  '  West  Side.'  In 
this  narrow,  muddy  river,  lie  the  heart  and  strength  of  Chicago.  Dry 
this  up,  and  Chicago  would  dry  up  with  it,  mean  and  dirty  as  it 
looks.  From  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Joseph  River,  in  Michigan,  round 
to  Milwaukie,  in  the  State  of  Wisconsin,  a  distance,  by  the  lake  shore, 
of  more  than  250  miles,  Chicago  is  the  only  place  where  20  vessels 
can  be  loaded  or  unloaded,  or  find  shelter  in  a  storm.  A  glance  at 
the  map,  then,  will  show  that  it  is  the  only  accessible  port — and  hence 
the  commercial  centre — of  a  vast  territory,  measuring  thousands  of 
square  miles  of  the  richest  agricultural  country  in  the  world." 

The  harbor  is  being  gradually  deepened  to  admit  vessels  of  a  large 
class,  and  is  being  so  greatly  improved  at  the  expense  of  the  General 
Government  that  it  will  soon  be  one  of  the  best  on  the  lakes. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks,  with  the  streets 
having  an  average  width  of  80  feet.  From  the  lake  the  city  extends 
westward  for  about  5  miles.  Its  length,  parallel  with  the  lake,  is 
about  8  miles.  The  ground  gradually  rises  to  the  westward  to  an  ex- 
tent sufficient  to  drain  the  city  thoroughly.  The  streets  are  paved 


8T2  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

to  a  great  extent  with  the  Nicholson  pavement  of  wooden  blocks. 
Until  1856,  most  of  the  streets  of  Chicago  were  planked,  and  the 
buildings  then  erected  were  generally  without  cellars.  Consequently 
in  the  spring  of  the  year  the  ground  asserted  its  original  character  of 
a  swamp.  Since  1856,  it  has  become  necessary  to  change  the  grade 
of  the  city  several  times,  and  this  has  made  a  difference  of  from  two 
to  five  feet  in  the  original  level.  The  process  of  raising  the  houses  of 
Chicago  was  one  of  great  interest.  Buildings  of  immense  size,  and 
even  entire  blocks,  were  raised  several  feet  above  their  original  level 
without  a  crack  being  made  in  them,  or  a  single  thing  displaced. 
During  all  this  time  the  houses  were  occupied,  and  the  business  and 
every  day  life  of  the  occupants  went  on  as  usual.  The  following 
account  from  the  Chicago  Tribune,  of  the  raising  of  a  entire  block  of 
business  houses,  in  the  spring  of  1860,  will  show  how  the  work  was 
carried  on : 

"  For  the  past  week  the  marvel  and  the  wonder  of  our  citizens 
and  visitors  has  been  the  spectacle  of  a  solid  front  of  first-class  busi- 
ness blocks,  comprising  the  entire  block  on  the  north  side  of  Lake 
street,  between  Clark  and  La  Salle  streets,  a  length  of  320  feet,  being 
raised  about  four  feet  by  the  almost  resistless  lifting  force  of  6000 
screws.  The  block  comprises  13  first-class  stores,  and  a  large 
double  marble  structure,  the  Marine  Bank  Building.  Its  subdi- 
visions are  a  five-story  marble  front  block  of  three  stores ;  a  second 
four-story  block  of  three  stores,  and  a  five-story  block  of  four  stores, 
at  the  corner  of  Clark  street — these  all  presenting  an  unbroken  front, 
in  the  heart  of  our  city,  and  filled  with  occupants.  This  absence  from 
annoyance  to  the  merchants  and  the  public  was  due  to  the  skill  with 
which  the  contractors  hung  the  side  walks  to  the  block  itself,  and 
carried  up  the  same  with  the  rise  of  the  building.  The  block  was 
raised  four  feet  eight  inches,  the  required  height,  in  five  days,  when 
the  masons  put  in  the  permanent  supports.  The  entire  work  occupied 
about  four  weeks.  An  estimate  from  a  reliable  source  made  the 
entire  weight  thus  raised  about  35,000  tons.  So  carefully  was  it  done, 
that  not  a  pane  of  glass  was  broken,  nor  a  crack  in  masonry  appeared. 
The  internal  order  of  the  block  prevailed  undisturbed.  The  process 
of  raising,  as  indicated  above,  was  by  the  screw,  at  6000  of  which, 
three  inches  in  diameter  and  of  three-eighths  thread,  600  men  were 
employed,  each  man  in  charge  of  from  eight  to  ten  screws.  A  com- 
plete system  of  signals  was  kept  in  operation,  and  by  these  the  work- 
men passed,  each  through  his  series,  giving  each  screw  a  quarter  turn, 


ILLINOIS. 


873 


THE  TRIBUNE   BUILDING. 

then  returning  to  repeat  the  same.  Five  days'  labor  saw  the  immense 
weight  rise  through  four  feet  eight  inches,  to  where  it  stood  on  tempo- 
rary supports,  while  rapidly  being  replaced  by  permanent  foundations. 
The  work,  as  it  stands,  is  worth  going  miles  to  see,  and  has  drawn  the 
admiration  of  thousands  within  the  past  week." 

Chicago  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  cities  on  the  continent,  and 
is  often  called  the  "  New  York  of  the  West."  The  business  streets 
are  lined  with  splendid  warehouses,  which  have  no  superiors  in  ele- 
gance and  convenience  in  any  of  the  Eastern  cities.  Iron,  stone,  and 
marble  are  in  common  use.  Lake  street  is  the  Broadway  of  Chicago, 
while  Michigan  avenue  and  Wabash  avenue  are  lined  with  princely 
edifices,  and  are  adorned  with  rows  of  luxuriant  trees.  South  Water 
street  is  devoted  to  the  heavy  wholesale  trade.  Many  of  the  private 
residences  on  the  north  and  west  side  of  the  river  are  handsomely 
built,  and  are  surrounded  with  elegantly  ornamented  grounds. 


8U  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Chicago  River  is  crossed  by  numerous  bridges,  uniting  the 
various  parts  of  the  city.  These  are  all  drawbridges,  made  so  in  order 
not  to  interfere  with  the  navigation  of  the  river.  They  are  hung  in 
the  middle,  and  turn  on  a  pivot,  only  two  men  being  needed  for  each 
bridge.  In  1867-8,  a  tunnel  was  built  under  the  river,  and  is  now 
in  constant  use  by  vehicles  and  pedestrians.  It  is  the  only  work  of 
the  kind  in  America,  and  with  the  exception  of  the  Thames  Tunnel, 
in  London,  the  only  one  in  the  world. 

Street  railways  connect  the  various  portions  of  the  corporate  limits. 
The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water  from  Lake 
Michigan.  The  water  is  brought  into  the  city  by  means  of  a  tunnel, 
extending  from  the  shore,  under  the  bed  of  the  lake,  to  a  crib  or  well 
built  up  in  the  lake,  two  miles  from  the  land.  The  depth  of  the  shore 
shaft  is  69  feet,  and  of  the  lake  shaft  64  feet.  The  crib  is  simply  a 
well  into  which  the  water  of  the  lake  is  allowed  to  flow,  and  from 
which  it  makes  its  way  to  the  city  through  the  tunnel,  which  is  nearly 
circular  in  form,  being  5  feet  2  inches  high,  and  5  feet  2  inches 
wide.  It  is  enclosed  in  brick  masonry,  8  inches  thick.  The  cost  of 
the  entire  work  was  about  $1,000,000.  The  city  contains  two  arte- 
sian wells  of  great  value.  They  are  respectively  911  and  694  feet 
deep,  and  flow  about  1,200,000  gallons  daily. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  Custom  House,  in  which  is 
the  Post  Office,  a  fine  building  of  stone;  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  a 
beautiful  edifice  of  white  marble;  the  Court  House ;  Crosby's  Opera 
House  ;  and  the  Merchants'  Exchange.  There  are  about  112  churches 
in  the  city.  Some  of  which  possess  handsome  buildings. 

The  schools  of  the  city,  both  public  and  private,  are  noted  for  their 
excellence.  There  are  about  27  public  schools,  3  commercial  colleges, 
and  24  Roman  Catholic  convents  and  schools  in  operation.  The 
institutions  of  the  higher  class  are  the  University  of  Chicago,  founded  by 
the  late  Senator  Douglas,  and  possessing  a  series  of  elegant  buildings; 
the  Chicago  Theological  Seminary  ;  the  Presbyterian  Theological  Semi- 
nary; the  University  of  St.  Mary  of  the  Lake  ;  t\\s  Rush  Medical  College, 
and  two  other  medical  colleges.  The  Dearborn  Observatory  possesses 
a  fine  telescope.  The  Academy  of  Sciences  has  a  collection  of  38,000 
specimens  in  the  various  departments  of  natural  history.  The  His- 
torical Society  Library  numbers  85,000  bound  and  unbound  books  and 
pamphlets.  The  library  of  the  Young  Men's  Association  contains 
about  10,000  volumes;  that  of  the  Law  Institute  numbers  over  8000 
volumes.. 


ILLINOIS.  875 

The  charitable  and  benevolent  institutions  are  numerous  and  well 
managed.  The  principal  are  the  United  States  Marine  Hospital;  the 
Cook  County  Hospital;  the  Magdalen  Asylum;  the  Protestant  Or- 
phan Asylum;  the  Home  for  the  Friendless  ;  St.  Joseph's  (male)  and  St. 
Mary's  (female)  orphan  asylums  ;  and  the  Soldiers'  Home. 

The  city  contains  about  5  theatres,  and  a  number  of  concert  and 
lecture  halls,  and  second-class  places  of  amusement. 

The  cemeteries  are  12  in  number.  Graceland,  Rose  Hill,  Calvary, 
and  Oakwoods  are  the  principal.  They  are  all  situated  beyond  the 
city  limits. 

The  city  contains  a  number  of  handsome  public  squares.  The 
principal  of  these  are  the  Esplanade  or  Lake  Park,  and  Dearborn, 
Union,  Jefferson,  and  Lincoln  Parks.  With  the  exception  of  the  last, 
these  contain  from  1  to  5  acres  each.  Lincoln  Park  embraces  an  area 
of  60  acres,  fronting  on  the  lake,  and  will  eventually  be  the  hand- 
somest pleasure-ground  in  the  West. 

The  hotels  of  Chicago  are  among  the  best  in  the  country,  including 
4  or  5  first-class  establishments,  and  several  inferior  houses.  The 
Tremont,  Sherman,  Richmond,  and  Briggs'  Houses  are  the  leading 
establishments. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  an  efficient  police  force  and  steam  fire  de- 
partment, a  police  and  fire  alarm  telegraph,  and  is  governed  by  a 
Mayor  and  Council  elected  by  the  people.  In  1870,  the  population 
was  298,977. 

The  position  of  Chicago  on  the  lake  and  its  connections  by  rail- 
way with  the  rest  of  the  Union  have  made  it  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant places  in  America.  Possessing  now  one  of  the  best  harbors 
on  the  great  chain  of  lakes,  it  controls  a  large  share  of  the  enormous 
trade  of  those  inland  seas,  and  its  water  communication  with  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  is  made  sure  by  means  of  the  Michigan  and  Illinois 
Canal,  which  is  so  constructed  as  to  turn  the  current  of  the  Chicago 
River  into  the  navigable  portion  of  the  Illinois  River.  This  canal  is 
being  deepened  so  as  to  admit  the  passage  of  steamers  from  the  Il- 
linois to  Chicago  and  the  lakes.  Fifteen  lines  of  railway  centre  here, 
and  afford  rapid  and  direct  communication  with  all  parts  of  the 
Union.  Lines  of  steamships  ply  between  Chicago  and  the  various 
ports  on  Lakes  Michigan,  Huron,  and  Superior.  Some  idea  of  the 
lake  trade  of  Chicago  may  be  gained  from  the  following  statement 
published  by  the  Custom  House  authorities  of  the  port.  The  state- 
ment is  for  the  year  1870 : 


876  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

During  the  months  of  April,  May,  June,  July,  August,  September,  Oc- 
tober and  November,  the  following  number  of  vessels  entered  and  cleared 
the  port  of  Chicago,  and  those  of  the  other  cities  mentioned  : 

Entered.  Cleared. 

Chicago 12,546  12,358 

New  York 5757  6158 

Philadelphia 2098  1698 

Baltimore 1736  1866 

New  Orleans... 1148  1352 

San  Francisco 468  499 

Mobile 456  408 

Savannah 596  610 

Entered  at  Chicago  during  the  eight  months  of  navigation...  12,546 

Entered  at  other  ports  during  the  same  time 12,259 

Chicago's  excess 287 

Average  tonnage  of  vessels  entered  at  Chicago 239,921 

Average  tonnage  of  vessels  entered  at  New  York 599,661       • 

Chicago  is  the  largest  interior  grain  market  in  the  world.  In 
1838,  the  first  shipment  of  wheat  was  made,  and  consisted  of  78 
bushels.  In  1867,  the  total  receipts  of  grain  and  flour  were  as  fol- 
lows: 1,814,236  barrels  of  flour;  13,090,868  bushels  of  wheat ;  23,- 
018,827  bushels  of  corn;  10,988,617  bushels  of  oats;  1,306,204 
bushels  of  rye;  2,246,446  bushels  of  barley ;  in  all,  equal  to  59,722,142 
bushels  of  grain,  the  heaviest  amount  received  in  any  one  year. 

The  grain  elevators  of  Chicago  are  among  its  greatest  curiosities. 
There  are  about  17  in  all,  possessing  an  aggregate  capacity  of  10,055,000 
bushels.  An  English  traveller  thus  describes  them  : 

"  An  elevator  is  as  ugly  a  monster  as  has  been  yet  produced.  In 
uncouthness  of  form  it  outdoes  those  obsolete  old  brutes  who  used  to 
roam  about  the  semi-aqueous  world,  and  live  a  most  uncomfortable 
life  with  their  great  hungering  stomachs  and  huge  unsatisfied  maws. 
The  elevator  itself  consists  of  a  big  moveable  trunk — moveable  as  is 
that  of  an  elephant,  but  not  pliable,  and  less  graceful  even  than  an 
elephant's.  This  is  attached  to  a  huge  granary  or  barn ;  but  in  order 
to  give  altitude  within  the  barn  for  the  necessary  moving  up  and 
down  of  this  trunk — seeing  that  it  cannot  be  curled  gracefully  to  its 
purposes  as  the  elephant's  is  curled — there  is  an  awkward  box  erected 
on  the  roof  of  the  barn,  giving  some  twenty  feet  of  additional  height, 
up  into  which  the  elevator  can  be  thrust.  It  will  be  understood, 
then,  that  this  big  moveable  trunk,  the  head  of  which,  when  it  is 
at  rest,  is  thrust  up  into  the  box  on  the  roof,  is  made  to  slant  down 
in  an  oblique  direction  from  the  building  to  the  river;  for  the  ele- 


ILLINOIS. 


87T 


SCENE  ON  LAKE  STREET. 

vator  is  an  amphibious  institution,  and  flourishes  only  on  the  banks 
of  navigable  waters.  When  its  head  is  ensconced  within  its  box,  and 
the  beast  of  prey  is  thus  nearly  hidden  within  the  building,  the  un- 
suspicious vessel  is  brought  up  within  reach  of  the  creature's  trunk, 
and  down  it  comes,  like  a  mosquito's  proboscis,  right  through  the 
deck,  in  at  the  open  aperture  of  the  hold,  and  so  into  the  very  vitals 
and  bowels  of  the  ship.  When  there,  it  goes  to  work  upon  its  food 
with  a  greed  and  an  avidity  that  is  disgusting  to  a  beholder  of  any 
taste  or  imagination.  And  now  I  must  explain  the  anatomical  ar- 
rangement by  which  the  elevator  still  devours  and  continues  to  devour 
till  the  corn  within  its  reach  has  all  been  swallowed,  masticated,  and 
digested.  Its  long  trunk,  as  seen  slanting  down  from  out  of  the  build- 
ing across  the  wharf  and  into  the  ship,  is  a  mere  wooden  pipe;  but 
this  pipe  is  divided  within.  It  has  two  departments;  and  as  the 
grain-bearing  troughs  pass  up  the  one  on  a  pliable  band,  they  pass 
empty  down  the  other.  The  system,  therefore,  is  that  of  an  ordinary 
dredging  machine ;  only  that  corn  and  not  mud  is  taken  away,  and 
that  the  buckets  or  troughs  are  hidden  from  sight.  Below,  within  the 


878  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

stomach  of  the  poor  bark,  three  or  four  laborers  are  at  work,  helping 
to  feed  the  elevator.  They  shovel  the  corn  up  toward  its  maw,  so 
that  at  every  swallow  he  should  take  in  all  that  he  can  hold.  Thus 
the  troughs,  as  they  ascend,  are  kept  full,  and  when  they  reach  the 
upper  building  they  empty  themselves  into  a  shoot,  over  which  a 
porter  stands  guard,  moderating  the  shoot  by  a  door,  which  the  weight 
of  his  finger  can  open  and  close.  Through  this  doorway  the  corn  runs 
into  a  measure,  and  is  weighed.  By  measures  of  forty  bushels  each, 
the  tale  is  kept.  There  stands  the  apparatus,  with  the  figures  plainly 
marked,  over  against  the  porter's  eye;  and  as  the  sum  mounts  nearly 
up  to  forty  bushels  he  closes  the  door  till  the  grains  run  thinly  through, 
hardly  a  handful  at  a  time,  so  that  the  balance  is  exactly  struck. 
Then  the  teller  standing  by  marks  down  his  figure,  and  the  record 
is  made.  The  exact  porter  touches  the  string  of  another  door,  and 
the  forty  bushels  of  corn  run  out  at  the  bottom  of  the  measure,  dis- 
appear down  another  shoot,  slanting  also  toward  the"  water,  and  de- 
posit themselves  in  the  canal  boat.  The  transit  of  the  bushels  of  corn 
from  the  larger  vessel  to  the  smaller  will  have  taken  less  than  a 
minute,  and  the  cost  of  that  transit  will  have  been — a  farthing. 

"But  I  have  spok,en  of  the  rivers  of  wheat,  and  I  must  explain 
what  are  those  rivers.  In  the  working  of  the  elevator,  which  I  have 
just  attempted  to  describe,  the  two  vessels  were  supposed  to  be  lying 
at  the  same  wharf,  on  the  same  side  of  the  building,  in  the  same 
water,  the  smaller  vessel  inside  the  larger  one.  When  this  is  the  case, 
the  corn  runs  direct  from  the  weighing  measure  into  the  shoot  that 
communicates  with  the  canal  boat.  But  there  is  not  room  or  time 
for  confining  the  work  to  one  side  of  the  building.  There  is  water 
on  both  sides,  and  the  corn  or  wheat  is  elevated  on  the  one  side,  and 
reshipped  on  the  other.  To  effect  this,  the  corn  is  carried  across  the 
breadth  of  the  building ;  but,  nevertheless,  it  is  never  handled  or  moved 
in  its  direction  on  trucks  or  carriages  requiring  the  use  of  men's 
muscles  for  its  motion.  Across  the  floor  of  the  building  are  two  gut- 
ters, or  channels,  and  through  these  small  troughs  on  a  pliable  band 
circulate  very  quickly.  They  which  run  one  way,  in  one  channel,  are 
laden ;  they  which  run  by  the  other  channel  are  empty.  The  corn 
pours  itself  into  these,  and  they  again  pour  it  into  the  shoot  which 
commands  the  other  water.  And  thus  rivers  of  corn  are  running 
through  these  buildings  night  and  day.  The  secret  of  all  the  motion 
and  arrangement  consists,  of  course,  in  the  elevation.  The  corn  is 
lifted  up ;  and  when  lifted  up,  can  move  itself  and  arrange  itself,  and 
weigh  itself,  and  load  itself." 


ILLINOIS.  879 

Next  to  its  trade  in  grain  is  the  lumber  trade  of  Chicago ;  the  city 
being  the  most  important  lumber  market  in  the  United  States.  In 
1867,  there  were  received  here  861,912,900  feet  of  lumber,  432,261,000 
shingles,  and  143,847,000  pieces  of  laths. 

Chicago  ranks  next  to  New  York  as  a  beef  and  cattle  market. 
In  1864,  its  receipts  were  336,627  head.  As  a  beef-packing  point 
it  is  unsurpassed  by  any  city  on  the  continent,  its  annual  packing 
amounting  to  about  100,000  head. 

As  a  pork-packing  point  it  is  the  first  in  the  Union,  having  sur- 
passed Cincinnati  some  years  ago.  In  1864-5,  760,514  hogs  were 
killed  and  packed  here.  In  the  same  year,  the  total  receipts  of  hogs 
at  Chicago  amounted  to  1,410,320.  The  pork  houses  of  Chicago 
are  models  of  their  kind,  and  are  richly  worth  visiting.  The  pork 
house  is  usually  a  substantial  structure  of  brick,  of  about  180  by 
160  feet  on  the  ground  floor,  with  a  large  and  commodious  lard  house 
adjoining,  but  separated  from  it  by  a  heavy  brick  wall  and  iron 
doors  to  prevent  the  steam  and  vapor  from  entering  the  main  build- 
ing. The  pork  house  is  three  stories  high,  with  a  strong,  double, 
flat  roof,  and  this  roof  is  arranged  into  convenient  pens,  the  whole 
being  capable  of  containing  4000  hogs  at  once.  The  lower  floor  is 
used  for  curing  and  storing  the  meat,  the  second  for  packing  and 
shipping,  and  the  third  for  cooking  and  cutting  up  the  hogs. 

As  soon  as  the  hogs  arrive  at  the  pork  house,  they  are  driven 
up  an  inclined  plane  to  the  pens  at  the  top  of  the  building.  They 
are  allowed  to  remain  there  two  nights  and  a  day.  By  this  arrange- 
ment they  are  given  an  abundance  of  pure,  fresh  air,  and  are  brought 
to  the  best  possible  sanitary  condition.  If  they  were  killed  imme- 
diately after  hard  exercise  and  excitement,  as  in  driving  them  to  the 
slaughter  pens,  the  flesh  would  be  in  a  high  state  of  fever,  the  marrow 
in  a  semi-fluid  condition,  and  this  would  produce  what  is  known  as 
foul  joints,  and  the  meat  would  in  a  short  time  become  tainted  and 
eventually  unfit  for  use. 

When  the  time  for  killing  arrives,  twenty  hogs  are  driven  into  a 
pen  with  a  fine  grated  floor.  A  man  enters  the  pen,  and  with  a  long 
hammer  deals  each  hog  a  blow  on .  the  forehead  between  the  eyes, 
which  fells  him  to  the  floor.  He  is  followed  by  another  man,  who 
cuts  the  throat  of  each  animal  with  a  sharp  knife,  the  blood  flowing 
through  the  grated  floor  into  gutters  which  conduct  it  to  a  large 
tank  outside  the  building.  Another  lot  of  hogs  is  driven  into  an 
adjoining  pen,  and  the  same  process  gone  through  with. 


880  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

When  the  hogs  have  been  bled  sufficiently,  they  are,  one  at  a  time, 
slid  down  an  inclined  plane  into  a  large  scalding  tub  or  vat,  in 
which  the  water  is  kept  at  a  regular  temperature  by  steam  coils. 
Here  they  are  floated  along  slowly  until  they  reach  the  table  at  the 
opposite  end,  where  they  are  taken  out  by  a  very  simple  contrivance 
worked  by  one  man.  After  being  placed  upon  the  table,  they  are 
passed  along  through  the  hands  of  different  men,  each  of  whom  has 
stated  duties  to  perform.  The  first  two  take  from  the  back  in  an  in- 
stant all  the  bristles  suitable  for  the  brushmaker  or  cobbler,  and  de- 
posit them  in  barrels  for  removal ;  eight  or  ten  pairs  more  of  men  strip 
the  hog  of  its  coat,  and  clean  it,  when  the  gambrel  stick  is  put  into 
it,  and  it  is  swung  to  an  overhead  railway,  and  thoroughly  drenched 
with  cold  water  to  remove  all  impurities.  It  is  then  opened  and  the 
intestines  removed,  after  which  it  is  again  drenched  with  cold  water, 
and  the  back  bone  is  split  down,  and  the  leaf  lard  loosened.  It  is 
then  taken  to  the  cooling  room,  and  allowed  to  remain  there  two  days, 
in  which  time  all  animal  heat  disappears. 

The  hog  is  then  cut  up.  One  blow  from  an  immense  cleaver  severs 
the  head  from  the  body.  Another  man  cuts  away  the  hind-parts  con- 
taining the  hams,  and  the  remainder  of  the  hog  is  cut  up  according 
to  the  requirements  of  the  market,  the  leaf  lard  being  taken  away  by 
hand.  So  rapidly  is  the  cutting  process  performed,  that  two  expert 
men  can  easily  cut  up  over  2000  hogs  in  eight  hours,  though  the  day's 
work  is  generally  confined  to  about  1200  head. 

The  process  is  completed  in  the  curing  room.  Here  a  solution  of 
saltpetre  is  liberally  applied  to  all  the  green  meat,  except  the  shoulders ; 
and,  while  wet,  it  is  covered  with  salt,  and  packed  away  in  tiers  to 
dry.  In  three  weeks  it  is  handled  again  ;  receives  a  second  dressing 
of  salt,  and  is  allowed  to  stand  seven  days  more,  when  it  is  cured, 
and  ready  for  packing. 

After  the  small  intestines  are  removed  from  the  hog,  they  are  taken 
by  men  and  boys,  and  all  the  fat  is  separated  from  them  and  placed  in 
large  vats  of  water  to  wash  it  clean,  going  through  two  waters,  when 
it  is  ready  to  be  put  into  the  lard  tank. 

The  lard  house  is,  like  the  main  building,  three  stories  in  height. 
In  the  second  story  are  seven  large  iron  tanks,  extending  up  through 
the  ceiling  into  the  third  story,  where  they  are  each  provided  with 
an  opening  used  for  filling  them.  In  these  tanks  all  the  fatty  sub- 
stances used  for  making  lard  are  placed  until  the  vessels  are  full. 
The  mass  is  then  subjected  to  a  jet  of  steam  from  the  boilers,  of  a 


ILLINOIS.  881 

pressure  of  fifteen  pounds  to  the  square  inch.  Each  tank  is  provided 
with  a  safety  valve,  so  that,  on  reaching  the  maximum  pressure  al- 
lowed the  steam  passes  off,  causing  a  continuous  flow  of  steam  through 
the  whole  mass.  By  this  process  every  particle  of  lard  is  set  free 
from  the  mass. 

After  the  steam  has  been  kept  on  for  a  certain  time,  a  faucet  is 
opened  midway  of  the  tank,  or  about  where  the  lard  and  water  meet, 
and  the  former  is  drawn  off  into  an  immense  clarifying  vessel,  in 
which,  on  being  subjected  to  a  heat  of  300  degrees  Fahrenheit,  it  is 
thoroughly  cleared  of  all  impurities,  a  part  rising  to  the  top  of  the 
lard,  where  it  is  skimmed  off,  and  the  rest  settling  at  the  bottom,  from 
which  it  is  drained  off  by  a  faucet.  The  remainder  is  the  purest 
and  sweetest  lard  that  can  be  made,  being  entirely  free  from  any  un- 
pleasant odor,  and  as  agreeable  to  the  taste  as  new,  unsalted  butter. 

The  refuse  material  is  used  in  various  ways,  nothing  that  can  be 
put  to  any  conceivable  use  being  thrown  away. 

The  salt  trade  of  Chicago  is  also  important,  varying  from  650,000 
to  775,000  barrels  annually. 

In  1867,  there  were  7500  buildings  erected  in  Chicago,  at  a  cost 
of  $7,500,000. 

The  name  of  the  city  is  said  to  have  been  derived  as  follows :  Along- 
the  shores  of  the  river  the  wild  onion  was  found  in  great  abundance, 
to  which  the  Indians  gave  the  name  Chi-ka-jo,  from  which  the  word 
Chicago  is  derived.  The  first  white  men  to  visit  the  spot  were  the 
early  French  Jesuit  missionaries  and  fur  traders.  Father  Marquette 
visited  it  in  1673,  and  Perrot  about  the  year  1770.  At  that  time, 
this  territory  was  in  possession  of  the  Miami  Indians,  but  subsequently 
the  Potawatomies  crowded  the  Miamis  back,  and  became  the  sole 
possessors,  until  the  year  1795,  when  they  became  parties  to  a  treaty 
with  Wayne,  by  which  a  tract  of  land,  six  miles  square,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Chicago  River,  was  ceded  to  the  United  States — the  first  ex- 
tinction of  Indian  title  to  the  land  on  which  Chicago  is  built.  In  1804, 
Fort  Dearborn  was  built  by  the  United  States  on  the  point  south  of 
the  river,  near  its  mouth.  In  1812,  the  Government,  becoming  appre- 
hensive that  a  fort  so  far  advanced  from  the  frontiers  could  not  be 
successfully  held  against  the  British  and  their  allies,  ordered  its  evacu- 
ation. On  the  12th  of  August,  Captain  Heald,  the  commandant, 
marched  out  of  the  fort  with  his  little  garrison,  consisting  of  about  75 
persons  in  all,  and  commenced  his  withdrawal  along  the  lake  shore. 
When  he  had  gotten  about  two  miles  from  the  fort  he  was  attacked 
56 


882  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

by  the  Potawatomie  Indians,  and  52  persons,  viz.,  12  militia,  26  re- 
gulars, 2  women  and  12  children,  were  killed  and  wounded.  The  rest 
succeeded  in  escaping.  The  Indians  destroyed  the  fort,  but  it  was 
rebuilt  in  1816,  under  Captain  Bradley.  The  fort  was  held  as  a  mili- 
tary post  until  1837,  when  the  Indians  having  left  the  country,  it  was 
abandoned.  In  1831,  Chicago  contained  a  few  log  cabins  which  had 
sprung  up  around  the  fort,  and  about  a  dozen  families  besides  the 
officers  and  soldiers  in  Fort  Dearborn.  On  the  26th  of  September, 
1833,  the  town  was  laid  out,  and  on  the  4th  of  March,  1837,  received 
its  first  charter.  At  that  time,  it  contained  4470  inhabitants.  It  re- 
mained stationary  until  about  1840,  when  it  began  its  remarkable 
career  of  prosperity.  The  following  table  will  show  its  rapid  growth 
during  the  past  thirty  years : 

Year.  Population. 

1840, 4853 

1850, 29,963 

1860, .  109,420 

1870, 298,977 

QUINCY, 

In  Adams  county,  is  the  second  city  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on 
the  eastern  or  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  160  miles  above  St.  Louis, 
268  miles  southwest  of  Chicago,  and  109  miles  west  of  Springfield. 
The  city  is  built  on  a  limestone  bluff,  125  feet  above  the  river,  of 
which  it  commands  beautiful  and  extensive  views.  It  is  well  built, 
and  contains  a  number  of  handsome  edifices.  Some  of  the  residences 
are  tasteful  and  elegant.  It  is  lighted  with  gas  and  supplied  with 
water.  It  contains  several  excellent  public  and  private  schools,  24 
churches,  10  public  halls,  a  court  house,  and  5  newspaper  offices. 
Two  of  these  journals  are  printed  in  the  German  language,  a  large 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  being  of  German  origin.  The  city  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
24,052. 

Quincy  is  actively  engaged  in  the  Mississippi  River  trade,  and 
the  landing  is  usually  thronged  with  steamboats.  The  city  is  the 
.  terminus  of  two  lines  of  railway,  which  connect  it  with  all  parts  of 
the  West  on  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi.  The  surrounding  country 
is  an  extensive,  fertile,  and  highly  cultivated  prairie;  and  of  this 
region  Quincy  is  the  principal  market.  The  city  is  to  a  limited 
extent  engaged  in  manufactures;  iron,  tobacco,  lumber,  flour, 


ILLINOIS.  883 


QUINCY. 

chinery  and  carriages  being  the  principal  articles  produced.  About 
100,000  hogs  are  packed  here  annually. 

Quincy  was  settled  about  the  year  1822,  the  first  inhabitant  being 
John  Wood,  of  the  State  of  New  York.  In  1825,  the  town  was 
laid  out  by  order  of  the  county  court.  It  received  its  name  on  tiie 
day  that  John  Quincy  Adams  was  inaugurated  President  of  the  United 
States.  The  Indians  continued  in  the  vicinity  as  late  as  1832,  when 
the  Black  Hawk  War  occurred.  At  the  time  of  the  first  settlement 
of  the  town,  there  were  but  three  white  inhabitants  within  the  limits 
of  the  present  county  of  Adams.  These  were  obliged  to  go  to  Atlas, 
40  miles  distant,  where  there  was  a  horse-mill,  in  order  to  have  their 
corn  meal  ground,  this  being  their  principal  breadstuff. 

PKORIA, 

In  the  county  of  the  same  name,  is  the  third  city  of  the  State.  It  is 
situated  on  the  right  or  western  bank  of  the  Illinois  River,  at  the 
outlet  of  Peoria  Lake,  70  miles  north  of  Springfield,  151  miles  south- 
west of  Chicago,  and  193  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  River. 
The  city  is  located  on  elevated  ground,  above  the  highest  stage  of  the 
water,  and  slopes  down  gradually  to  the  river's  edge.  The  city  is 
regularly  laid  out ;  the  streets  are  nearly  all  100  feet  wide,  and  are  well 
graded,  and  often  shaded  with  trees.  A  traveller,  writing  of  it,  says: 


884  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"  Peoria  is  the  most  beautiful  town  on  the  river.  Situated  on  rising 
ground,  a  broad  plateau,  extending  back  from  the  bluff,  it  has  escaped 
the  almost  universal  inundation.  The  river  here  expands  into  a 
broad,  deep  lake.  This  lake  is  a  most  beautiful  feature  in  the  scenery 
of  the  town,  and  as  useful  as  beautiful,  supplying  the  inhabitants  with 
ample  stores  of  fish,  and  in  winter  with  an  abundance  of  the  purest 
ice.  It  is  often  frozen  to  such  a  thickness  that  heavy  teams  can  pass 
securely  over  it.  A  substantial  drawbridge  connects  the  town  with 
the  opposite  shore  of  the  river.  Back  of  the  town  extends  one  of  the 
finest  rolling  prairies  in  the  State,  which  furnishes  to  Peoria  its  sup- 
plies and  much  of  its  business." 

The  city  contains  28  churches,  several  excellent  public  schools,  5 
daily  newspapers,  a  city  hall,  and  the  county  buildings.  It  is  lighted 
with  gas  and  supplied  with  water,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  The  population  in  1870  was  22,849. 

Peoria  is  the  most  populous  town  on  the  Illinois  River,  and  one  of 
the  most  important  commercial  points  in  the  State.  The  river  is  navi- 
gable for  steamers  at  all  stages  of  the  water,  and  navigation  is  only 
suspended  in  the  season  of  ice.  By  means  of  it  large  quantities  of 
grain,  pork,  lumber,  and  ice  are  exported.  Regular  lines  of  steam- 
ers ply  between  Peoria  and  St.  Louis,  and  the  Michigan  and  Illi- 
nois Canal  affords  steamboat  communication  with  Chicago.  Several 
lines  of  railway  centre  here,  and  afford  rapid  and  sure  connections 
with  all  parts  of  the  State.  The  city  is  largely  engaged  in  distilling 
whiskey,  and  is  interested  in  manufactures  to  a  limited  extent. 

Peoria  was  first  visited  by  Joseph  Marquette  and  M.  Joliet,  in 
1673.  In  1680,  La  Salle  erected  a  fort  and  trading-post  here.  After 
the  conquest  of  Canada,  Illinois  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  English. 
In  1796,  Peoria  was  described  as  "an  Indian  village,  composed  of 
pseudo  savages,  made  of  the  native  tribe  of  Peoriaco  Indians,  and 
Canadian  French,  a  few  Indian  traders  and  hunters."  In  December, 
1812,  this  settlement  was  burned  by  the  American  forces.  In  1813, 
Fort  Clark  was  erected  on  the  spot  by  order  of  Governor  Edwards. 
In  1819,  the  actual  settlement  of  the  present  town  was  begun.  In 
1831,  Peoria  was  incorporated  as  a  town,  and  in  1844  as  a  city. 

GALENA, 

In  Jo  Daviess  county,  is  an  important  city.  It  is  situated  on  Fevre 
River,  6  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi,  250  miles 
north-by-west  of  Springfield.,  160  miles  west-northwest  of  Chicago, 


ILLINOIS.  885 

miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  450  miles  above  St.  Louis.  "  The 
river,  sometimes  called  the  Galena,  on  whose  rocky  shelf  this  town  is 
built,  is  more  properly  an  arm  of  the  Mississippi  River,  sitting  up 
between  lofty  bluffs,  around  whose  base  it  winds  with  picturesque 
effect.  The  streets  rise  one  above  another,  and  communicate  with 
each  other  by  flights  of  steps,  so  that  the  houses  on  the  higher  streets 
are  perched  like  an  eagle's  eyrie,  overlooking  the  rest,  and  command- 
ing an  extensive  prospect.  Pleasant  churches  meet  the  eye  on  the  first 
ledge  or  terrace  above  the  levee,  and  private  residences  wearing  an 
aspect  of  neatness  and  comfort  adorn  each  successive  height."  The 
city  is  well  paved,  and  the  houses  are  built  mostly  of  brick.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  contains,  beside  the  county  buildings,  a  number 
of  churches  and  public  schools,  and  several  newspaper  offices.  It  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
7019. 

Galena  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  towns  in  the  State, 
but  owes  its  importance  entirely  to  the  great  lead  mines  by  which  it  is 
surrounded  in  every  direction.  Considerable  quantities  of  copper  are 
found  in  connection  with  the  lead.  It  is  estimated  that  these  mines 
are  capable  of  yielding  150,000,000  pounds  annually  for  an  indefinite 
period  in  the  future.  Mineral  from  some  eight  or  ten  mining  localities 
in  Wisconsin  is  sent  to  Galena  for  shipment  down  the  Mississippi, 
there  being  regular  steamboat  communication  between  Galena  and  the 
river  towns.  The  city  is  connected  with  all  points  east  and  west  by 
railway. 

The  lead  mines  lie  in  every  direction  around  the  city.  The  country 
is  hilly,  and  has  a  desolate  and  bleak  appearance.  A  visitor  thus 
describes  it: 

"Every  hill  is  spotted  with  little  mounds  of  yellow  earth,  and  is 
as  full  of  holes  as  a  worm-eaten  cheese.  Some  winding  road  at 
length  brings  you  to  the  top  of  one  of  these  bare,  bleak  hills,  and  to  a 
larger  mound  of  the  same  yellowish  earth,  with  which  the  whole 
country  in  sight  is  mottled.  On  the  top  of  this  mound  of  earth  stands 
a  windlass,  and  a  man  is  winding  up  tubs  full  of  dirt  and  rock,  which 
continually  increase  the  pile  under  his  feet.  Beneath  him,  forty,  fifty, 
a  hundred  feet  under  ground  is  the  miner.  As  we  look  around  on 
every  ridge,  see  "the  windlass-men,  and  know  that  beneath  each  one  a 
smithy-faced  miner  is  burrowing  by  the  light  of  a  dim  candle,  let  us 
descend  into  the  mines  and  see  the  miners  at  their  work.  The  wind- 
lass-man makes  a  loop  in  the  end  of  the  rope,  into  which  you  put  one 


886  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

foot,  and,  clasping,  at  the  same  time,  the  rope  with  one  hand,  slowly 
you  begin  to  go  down;  down,  it  grows  darker  and  darker;  a  damp, 
grave-like  smell  comes  up  from  below,  and  you  grow  dizzy  with  the 
continual  whirling  around,  until,  when  you  reach  the  bottom  and  look 
up  at  the  one  small  spot  of  daylight  through  which  you  came  down, 
you  start  with  alarm  as  the  great  mass  of  rocks  and  earth  over  your 
head  seem  to  be  swaying  and  tumbling  in.  You  draw  your  breath  a 
little  more  freely,  however,  when  you  perceive  that  it  was  only  your 
own  dizziness,  or  the  scudding  of  clouds  across  the  one  spot  of  visible 
sky,  and  you  take  courage  to  look  about  you.  Two  or  three  dark  little 
passages,  from  four  to  six  feet  high,  and  about  three  feet  wide,  lead  off 
into  the  murky  recesses  of  the  mine ;  these  are  called,  in  mining  par- 
lance, drifts.  You  listen  a  little  while,  and  there  is  a  dull  lthud! 
•thud!9  comes  from  each  one,  and  tells  of  something  alive  away  off  in 
the  gloom,  and,  candle  in  hand,  you  start  in  search  of  it.  You  eye 
the  rocky  walls  and  roof  uneasily  as,  half  bent,  you  thread  the  narrow 
passage,  until,  on  turning  some  angle  in  the  drift,  you  catch  a  glimpse 
of  the  miner,  he  looks  small  and  dark,  and  mole-like,  as  on  his  knees, 
and  pick  in  hand,  he  is  prying  from  a  perpendicular  crevice  in  the 
rock,  a  lump  of  mineral  as  large  as  his  head,  and  which,  by  the  light 
of  his  dim  candle,  flashes  and  gleams  like  a  huge  carbuncle;  or,  per- 
haps?  it  is  a  horizontal  sheet  or  vein  of  mineral  that  presents  its  edge 
to  the  miner;  it  is  imbedded  in  the  solid  rock,  which  must  be  picked 
and  blasted  down  to  get  at  the  mineral.  He  strikes  the  rock  with  his 
pick,  and  it  rings  as  though  he  had  struck  an  anvil.  You  cannot 
conceive  how,  with  that  strip  of  gleaming  metal,  seeming  like  a  ma- 
gician's wand,  to  beckon  him  on  and  on,  he  could  gnaw,. as  it  were, 
his  narrow  way  for  hundreds  of  feet  through  the  rock.  But  large, 
indeed,  you  think,  must  be  his  organ  of  hope,  and  resolute  his  perse- 
verance, to  do  it  with  no  such  glittering  prize  in  sight.  Yet  such  is 
often  the  case,  and  many  a  miner  has  toiled  for  years,  and  in  the 
whole  time  has  discovered  scarcely  enough  mineral  to  pay  for  the 
powder  used.  Hope,  however,  in  the  breast  of  the  miner,  has  as 
many  lives  as  a  cat,  and  on  no  day,  in  all  his  toilsome  years,  could 
you  go  down  into  his  dark  and  crooked  hole,  a  hundred  feet  from 
grass  and  sunshine,  but  he  would  tell  you  that  he  was  'close  to  it  now,' 
in  a  few  days  he  hoped  to  strike  a  lode  (pronounced  among  miners  as 
though  it  was  spelled  leed\  and  so  a  little  longer  and  a  little  longer, 
and  his  life  of  toil  wears  away,  while  his  work  holds  him  with  a  fasci- 
nation equalled  only  by  a  gambler's  passion  for  his  cards.  Lodes  or 


ILLINOIS.  887 

veins  of  mineral  in  the  same  vicinity  run  in  the  general  direction. 
Those  in  the  vicinity  of  Galena,  run  east  and  west.  The  crevice  which 
contains  the  mineral,  is  usually  perpendicular,  and  from  1  to  20  feet 
in  width,  extending  from  the  cap  rock,  or  the  first  solid  rock  above 
the  mineral,  to  uncertain  depths  below,  and  is  filled  with  large,  loose 
'rocks,  and  a  peculiar  red  dirt,  in  which  are  imbedded  masses  of 
mineral.  These  masses  are  made  up  cubes,  like  those  formed  of  crys- 
tallization, and  many  of  them  as  geometrically  correct  as  could  be  made 
with  a  compass  and  square.  Before  the  mineral  is  broken,  it  is  of 
the  dull  blue  color  of  lead,  but  when  broken,  glistens  like  silver. 
Sometimes  caves  are  broken  into,  whose  roofs  are  frosted  over  with 
calcareous  spar,  as  pure  and  white  as  the  frost  upon  the  window-pane 
in  winter,  and  from  dark  crevices  in  the  floor  comes  up  the^gurgling 
of  streams  that  never  saw  the  sun.  The  life  of  a  miner  is  a  dark  and 
lonesome  one.  His  drift  is  narrow,  and  will  not  admit  of  two  abreast; 
therefore,  there  is  but  little  conversation,  and  no  jokes  are  bandied 
about  from  mouth  to  mouth  by  fellow-laborers.  The  alternations 
of  hope  and  disappointment  give,  in  the  course  of  years,  a  subdued 
expression  to  his  countenance.  There  are  no  certain  indications  by 
which  the  miner  can  determine  the  existence  of  a  vein  of  mineral 
without  sinking  a  shaft.  Several  methods  are  resorted  to,  however. 
The  linear  arrangement  of  any  number  of  trees  that  are  a  little  larger 
than  the  generality  of  their  neighbors,  is  considered  an  indication  of 
an  opening  underground  corresponding  to  their  arrangement.  De- 
pressions in  the  general  surface  are  also  favorable  signs,  and  among 
the  older  miners  there  are  yet  some  believers  in  the  mystic  power  of 
witch-hazel  and  the  divining-rod.  In  the  largest  number  of  cases, 
however,  but  little  attention  is  paid  to  signs  other  than  to  have  con- 
tinuous ground — that  is,  to  dig  on  the  skirts  of  a  ridge  that  is  of  good 
width  on  top,  so  that  any  vein  that  might  be  discovered  would  not 
run  out  too  quickly  on  the  other  side  of  the  ridge.  On  such  ground 
the  usual  method  of  search  is  by  suckering,  as  it  is  called.  The  miner 
digs  a  dozen  or  more  holes,  about  6  feet  deep,  and  within  a  stone's 
throw  of  each  other,  and  in  some  one  of  these  he  is  likely  to  find  a  few 
pieces  of  mineral,  the  dip  of  certain  strata  of  clay  then  indicates  the 
direction  in  which  he  is  to  continue  the  search,  in  which,  if  he  is  so 
successful  as  to  strike  a  lode,  his  fortune  is  made ;  in  the  other  event, 
he  is  only  the  more  certain  that  the  lucky  day  is  not  far  off." 

The  city  derives  its  name  from  the  French  word  signifying  a  lead 
mine.  It  was  settled  in  1826,  and  was  then  about  300  miles  from  the 
settlements.  Previous  to  the  war  it  was  the  home  of  President  Grant. 


888 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


ALTON. 


ALTON, 

In  Madison  county,  is  a  prominent  city.  It  is  situated  on  the 
left  or  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  3  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri  River,  21  miles  above  St.  Louis,  20  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  76  miles  southwest  of  Springfield,  and  257 
miles  southwest  of  Chicago. 

"  The  site  of  the  city  is  quite  uneven  and  broken,  with  hjgh  stony 
bluffs,  and  in  front  of  it  the  Mississippi  runs  almost  a  due  course  from 
east  to  west."  The  city  is  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  State,  and  is 
well  built.  It  contains  a  splendid  City  Hall,  10  churches,  one  of  which 
(the  Cathedral)  is  a  magnificent  structure,  4  newspaper  offices,  and  a 
number  of  flourishing  public  and  private  schools.  Shurtlejf  College 
and  the  Monticello  Female  Seminary  are  located  in  the  vicinity.  The 
city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In 
1870,  the  population  was  8665. 

Alton  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  on  the  Mississippi,  and  is  actively 
engaged  in  the  trade  of  that  river  and  of  the  Missouri.  It  has  direct 
railway  communication  with  Chicago  and  Terre  Haute,  Indiana.  It 
is  engaged  in  manufactures  to  a  considerable  extent.  Limestone  for 
building  purposes,  bituminous  coal,  and  clay  for  brick  and  earthen 
ware,  are  abundant  in  the  vicinity. 


ILLINOIS.  889 

Alton  was  first  settled  about  the  year  1808.  The  first  settlers  were 
much  exposed  to  the  savages,  and  lived  in  block  houses  for  their  mu- 
tual protection.  The  town  was  laid  out  about  the  year  1818.  It 
grew  slowly  until  1832,  when  the  Penitentiary  of  the  State  was  lo- 
cated here.  This  gave  a  considerable  impetus  to  Alton.  The  Peni- 
tentiary has  since  been  removed  to  Joliet.  In  1837,  Alton  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city. 

Since  the  above  description  of  Chicago  was  written,  that  city  has 
been  visited  with  the  most  terrible  and  destructive  fire  of  modern 
times,  and  has  suffered  the  loss  of  its  entire  business  quarter  and  a 
large  portion  of  its  residence  section.  The  entire  quarter  lying  be- 
tween the  lake  and  the  north  branch  of  the  Chicago  River  has  been 
destroyed,  and  the  larger  and  more  important  part  of  the  district  lying 
between  the  lake  and  the  south  branch  of  the  river  is  also  in  ruins. 
It  is  estimated  that  2000  acres  of  land  have  been  burned  over,  about 
20,000  houses  destroyed,  and  a  loss  of  about  $300,000,000  entailed 
upon  the  citizens.  Nearly  100,000  people  were  rendered  homeless 
by  the  conflagration,  many  more  were  deprived  of  their  accustomed 
means  of  support,  and  a  large  number  of  both  sexes  and  all  conditions 
perished  either  in  the  flames  or  from  the  effects  of  the  disaster. 

MISCELLANIES. 
GREAT    CONFLAGRATION    IN    CHICAGO. 

The  following  account  of  the  origin  and  progress  of  the  fire  is  taken  from 
Harper's  Weekly : 

The  fire  had  an  ignoble  beginning.  Late  on  Sunday  evening,  October  8th,  1871,  a 
woman  went  into  a  stable  on  Dekoven  street,  near  the  river,  on  the  west  side,  to 
milk  a  cow,  carrying  with  her  a  kerosene  lamp.  This  was  kicked  over  by  the 
cow,  and  the  burning  fluid  scattered  among  the  hay  and  straw.  A  single  fire- 
extinguisher  on  the  premises,  or  the  immediate  application  of  water,  would  have 
confined  the  flames  to  the  quarter  where  the  fire  began  ;  but  the  engines  were 
waited  for,  and  when  they  arrived  the  firemen,  stupefied  by  their  exposure  and 
exertions  at  a  large  fire  the  previous  night,  worked  with  less  than  their  usual 
readiness  and  skill.  The  flames  soon  obtained  headway.  A  high  wind  fanned 
them  into  fury,  and  they  became  uncontrollable.  They  sprang  from  house  to 
house,  and  from  square  to  square,  until  the  district  burned  over  the  day  before 
was  reached.  In  the  other  direction  the  flames  crossed  the  river  north  of 
Twelfth  street  to  the  south  side,  and  threatened  the  business  portion  of  the 
city. 

The  full  extent  of  the  danger  was  then  for  the  first  time  realized  ;  the  firemen, 
already  worn  out  and  exhausted,  worked  like  heroes,  and  the  Mayor  and  other 
officials  bestirred  themselves  to  take  measures  for  the  protection  of  the  city.  But 


890  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  opportunity  was  lost.  The  time  when  thorough  organization  could  have 
blown  up  buildings,  or  prepared  for  the  emergency,  had  been  allowed  to  pass,  and 
it  was  now  a  fight  for  life.  The  wind  blowing  a  stiff  gale  had  possession  of  the 
flames,  and  the  beautiful  buildings,  Chicago's  glory,  lay  before  them.  Harrison, 
Van  Buren,  Adams,  Monroe,  and  Madison  streets  were  soon  reached,  the  inter- 
vening blocks  from  the  river  to  Dearborn  street,  on  the  east,  being  consumed  ; 
and  within  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time  nearly  a  mile  of  brick  blocks  was 
consumed,  as  if  by  magic. 

It  being  Sunday  evening,  this  part  of  the  city  was  nearly  deserted.  Proprie- 
tors and  employes  were  at  home,  utterly  unconscious  of  what  was  taking  place. 
Those  who  saw  the  light  of  this  fire  supposed  it  was  the  remains  of  Saturday 
night's  fire,  and,  having  confidence  in  the  Fire  Department,  were  unconcerned  ; 
but  between  11  and  12  o'clock,  a  rumor  got  abroad  that  the  fire  was  in  the  busi- 
ness portion  of  the  city.  Then  everybody  was  on  the  alert,  and  from  the  southern 
part  of  the  city  a  stream  of  people  poured  toward  the  scene  of  the  conflagration. 
By  this  time  nearly  all  the  public  buildings  were  either  consumed  or  in  flames. 
The  air  was  filled  with  burning  brands,  which,  carried  north  and  east  by  the 
wind,  kindled  new  fires  wherever  they  fell.  The  fire-engines  were  powerless. 
The  streams  of  water  appeared  to  dry  up  the  moment  they  touched  the  flames. 
An  attempt  was  made  to  blow  up  the  buildings ;  but  this  availed  little,  as  the 
high  wind  carried  the  flaming  brands  far  across  the  space  thus  cleared  away. 

To  add  to  the  horrors  of  the  scene,  the  wooden  pavements  took  fire,  driving 
the  firemen  from  stations  where  their  efforts  might  have  been  continued  for  many 
precious  minutes.  Nothing  could  long  resist  the  terrible  heat  of  the  flames.  They 
seemed  to  strike  right  through  the  most  solid  walls.  Buildings  supposed  to  be 
fire-proof  burned  like  tinder,  and  crumbled  to  pieces  like  charred  paper.  Block 
after  block  was  consumed.  The  red  hot  coal  shot  higher  and  higher,  and  the 
flames  spread  further  and  further,  until  that  part  of  the  city  lying  north  of  Lake 
street  was  a  vast  sea  of  fire.  At  one  time  the  people  were  so  hemmed  in  by  the 
circle  of  flame  that  thousands  were  in  danger  of  perishing,  and  escaped  only  by  a 
precipitate  retreat.  The  hotels  were  hurriedly  emptied  of  their  guests,  who 
swarmed  into  the  streets  with  whatever  they  could  carry  away.  Those  who 
could  do  so,  made  their  way  to  the  yet  unburned  bridges,  and  escaped  across  the 
river,  while  others  fled  to  the  lake  shore,  and  found  a  safe  line  of  retreat  to  the 
southern  part  of  the  city.  This,  it  must  be  borne  in  mind,  was  in  the  night-time, 
but  the  city  and  the  country  and  lake  for  miles  around  were  illuminated  with  a 
lurid  light. 

When  morning  dawned  at  length,  there  was  but  one  block  of  buildings  left  in 
what  the  day  before  had  been  the  most  flourishing  business  part  of  the  city.  The 
magnificent  Court  House,  the  Board  of  Trade  building,  the  Sherman  House,  and 
other  hotels,  and  hundreds  of  stores  and  offices,  were  in  ruins.  The  Tribune 
block  alone  remained  unharmed.  A  wide  space  had  been  burned  around  it,  and 
'its  safety  was  supposed  to  be  assure^.  A  patrol  of  men,  under  Mr.  Samuel 
Medill,  swept  off  live  coals  and  put  out  fires  in  the  side  walls;  and  another 
patrol,  under  the  direction  of  the  Hon.  Joseph  Medill,  watched  the  roofs.  Up 
to  4  o'clock  in  the  morning,  writes  the  correspondent  of  the  World,  the  reporters 
had  sent  in  detailed  accounts  of  the  fire.  At  5  o'clock  the  forms  were  sent  down. 
In  ten  minutes  the  two  eight-cylinders  in  the  press-room  would  have  been  throw- 
ing off  the  morning  paper.  Then  the  front  basement  was  discovered  to  be  on 
tire.  The  plug  on  the  corner  was  tapped,  but  there  was  no  water.  The  con- 
flagration which  had  for  some  time  been  raging  on  the  north  side  had  destroyed 


ILLINOIS.  891 

the  Water-works.  There  was  hot  a  drop  of  water  in  the  city.  The  pressmen 
were  driven  from  their  presses.  The  attaches  of  the  office  said  good-by  to  the 
handsomest  newspaper  office  in  the  Western  country,  and  tearfully  withdrew  to 
a  place  of  safety.  In  a  very  short  time  the  office  was  enveloped  in  tire,  and  by 
10  o'clock  the  whole  block  was  a  mass  of  blackened  ruins.  M'Vickar's  fine 
theatre,  the  Crosby  Opera  House,  which  was  to  have  been  reopened  Monday 
evening,  the  office  of  the  Pullman  Car  Company,  the  great  Union  Kailroad 
Depot  at  the  foot  of  Lake  street,  all  the  banks,  and  many  of  the  finest  churches 
in  the  city  had  already  been  destroyed. 

By  the  destruction  of  the  Water-works,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  early  in 
the  day,  the  efficiency  of  the  Fire  Department  was  fatally  impaired.  It  was 
impossible,  owing  to  the  smoke  and  fire,  to  get  to  the  lake  or  river.  So  intense 
was  the  heat  that  the  sluggish  river  seemed  to  boil,  and  clouds  of  steam  rose  from 
its  surface  to  mingle  with  the  smoke  from  the  flames. 

Early  in  the  forenoon  of  Monday,  it  became  evident  that  nothing  could  save 
the  city,  and  all  the  streets  leading  southward  and  westward  from  the  burning 
quarter  were  crowded  with  men,  women,  and  children,  all  flying  for  life,  and 
attempting  to  save  something  from  the  general  wreck.  The  number  is  vaguely 
estimated  at  7r>,000.  Every  sort  of  vehicle  was  pressed  into  service.  With  :tlie 
selfishness  which  on  such  occasions  comes  uppermost  in  some  natures,  the  truck- 
men charged  enormous  prices  for  transporting  trunks,  boxes,  and  packages,  and 
turned  a  deaf  ear  to  all  who  could  not  pay  the  money  down.  Thousands  of  per- 
sons, inextricably  commingled  with  horses  and  vehicles,  poor  people  of  all  colors 
and  shades,  and  of  every  nationality,  mad  with  excitement,  struggled  with  each  other 
to  get  away.  Many  were  trampled  under  foot.  Men  and  women  were  loaded 
with  bundles,  to  whose  skirts  children  were  clinging,  half-dressed  and  barefooted, 
all  seeking  a  place  of  safety.  Hours  afterward  these  people  might  have  been 
seen  in  vacant  lots,  or  on  the  streets  far  out  in  the  suburbs,  stretched  in  the  dust. 

Many  pitiful  sights  were  witnessed  in  the  course  of  this  terrible  scramble  for 
life.  There  were  mothers  and  fathers,  who,  leaving  children  in  places  of  sup- 
posed safety,  had  gone  to  save  clothing  and  valuables  from  their  burning  houses, 
and  returned  to  find  their  little  ones  swept  away,  and  were  seeking  them  in  vain 
among  the  maddened  crowd.  There  were  men  and  women  whom  terror  had 
made  insane. 

Among  the  saddest  incidents  of  this  calamity  was  the  appearance  in  the  streets 
of  hundreds  of  men  and  boys  in  a  state  of  beastly  drunkenness.  In  the  North 
Division  the  liquor  saloons  were  broken  open,  and  their  contents  flung  into  the 
streets,  where  they  were  eagerly  seized  upon  by  the  maddened  crowd,  who  seem 
to  have  felt  the  same  impulse  that  leads  sailors  on  a  sinking  ship  to  drown  their 
terrors  in  the  delirium  of  intoxication.  There  can  be  hardly  any  doubt  that  many 
of  these  poor  wretches  found  their  death  in  the  flames  from  which  they  were 
helpless  to  escape.  Several  hundred  persons  sought  refuge  on  a  barge,  and  were 
towed  out  into  the  lake,  where  they  remained  all  night.  The  loss  of  life  cannot 
yet  be  definitely  ascertained,  but  will  probably  reach  several  hundred. 

Thus  the  dreadful  day  wore  on,  and  night  drew  near.  The  principal  business 
portion  of  the  city,  and  the  North  Division,  from  the  river  to  Lincoln  Park,  had 
been  swept  by  the  flames,  comprising  an  area  of  more  than  5  square  miles.  As 
the  awful  day  drew  to  its  close,  thousands  of  anxious  eyes  watched  the  clouds  of 
femoke  that  hung  over  the  scene  of  desolation,  dreading  lest  a  change  of  wind 
might  drive  the  flames  upon  that  portion  of  the  city  which  was  still  unburned, 
and  fervent  were  the  prayers  for  rain. 


892  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

No  pen  can  describe  the  horrors  of  the  night.  A  hundred  thousand  people 
encamped  in  the  fields  and  in  Lincoln  Park.  The  weather  was  tempestuous  and 
cold.  A  heavy  rain  the  day  previous  had  drenched  the  turf,  which  the  trampling 
feet  of  the  thousands  of  fugitives  from  the  fire  had  soon  beaten  into  a  morass. 
And  there,  on  the  bleak  prairie,  shelterless  and  half-naked,  delicate  women  slept 
with  their  babes  clasped  to  their  breasts,  or  moaned  in  unspeakable  anguish 
throughout  the  dreadful  night,  longing  for  day  and  yet  dreading  its  dawn.  What 
hearts  were  broken  during  that  awful  watch  in  cold,  and  darkness,  and  terror, 
what  lives  of  lingering  sickness  and  pain  prepared,  can  never  be  known.  It 
would  seem  as  if  such  distress  might  soften  the  most  obdurate  heart ;  yet  even 
there  armed  patrols  were  needed  to  guard  the  helpless  from  robbery  and  the 
baser  passions  of  desperate  ruffians,  who,  under  cover  of  the  general  panic  and 
disorganization,  sought  to  inaugurate  a  new  reign  of  terror.  Houses  were  broken 
open  and  pillaged  all  over  the  town.  Rape,  and  arson,  and  murder  were  not 
unfrequent ;  and  it  became  necessary  to  form  vigilance  committees.  Fortunately 
General  Sheridan  was  at  his  post.  The  city  was  placed  under  martial  law,  and 
wretches  caught  in  the  act  of  pillaging  or  setting  fire  to  buildings — for,  incredible 
as  it  may  seem,  men  became  incendiaries  in  the  midst  of  the  burning  town — 
were  executed  on  the  spot. 

During  the  whole  of  the  night  of  the  9th,  the  fire  continued  to  burn  on  the 
north  side  ;  but  the  wind  went  down,  and  shortly  after  midnight  rain  commenced 
falling,  and  by  daylight  the  flames  were  under  control.  Freed  from  anxiety  in 
regard  to  the  further  spreading  of  the  flames,  the  citizens  took  measures  for  the 
protection  of  property  and  for  the  care  of  the  thousands  who  were  homeless  and 
shelterless.  The  first  night  few  could  be  provided  with  shelter,  and  the  most 
harrowing  scenes  were  witnessed  on  every  hand.  Several  children  were  born 
into  the  world  in  the  midst  of  the  storm,  only  to  die.  There  were  invalids  of 
every  age  and  condition  of  life,  who  had  been  taken  from  their  beds  and  carried 
where  death  came  to  them  less  swiftly  but  not  less  surely  than  in  the  fiery  flood. 

In  response  to  the  cry  for  help  that  went  up  from  the  stricken  city,  instant  and 
abundant  relief  was  sent  from  every  part  of  the  Union.  The  General  Govern- 
ment sent  thousands  of  tents  and  army  rations.  Societies  and  private  citizens 
sent  money,  clothing,  and  provisions.  Railroad  companies  dispatched  special 
trains  laden  with  these  gifts.  From  Canada  and  from  Europe  came  expressions 
of  sympathy  and  proffers  of  assistance.  Wherever  the  news  was  carried,  it 
awakened  the  best  impulses  of  human  nature. 

The  spirit  and  courage  exhibited  by  the  business  people  of  Chicago  is  above  all 
praise.  The  smoke  still  hung  over  their  ruined  city,  when  they  met  and  resolved 
upon  measures  that  would  restore  its  fame  and  magnificence,  and  maintain  its 
credit  unimpaired.  The  newspapers,  with  their  accustomed  enterprise,  immedi- 
ately resumed  publication  as  best  they  could,  and  generous  assistance  was 
afforded  by  the  press  of  other  cities,  in  the  shape  of  type,  paper,  etc.  Temporary 
buildings  were  erected  in  every  direction,  and  in  less  than  a  week  after  the  cessa- 
tion of  the  fire,  hundreds  of  houses  were  ready  for  occupation.  The  spirit  of 
prostration  gave  way  to  one  of  confidence  and  hope.  Every  business  man  who 
could  hire  a  shed  resumed  business.  One  hundred  thousand  dollars  were  sub- 
scribed toward  rebuilding  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  the  work  will  be 
commenced  at  once.  With  this  spirit  animating  her  citizens,  Chicago  will  soon 
recover  from  this  great  calamity,  more  magnificent  and  beautiful  than  she  was 
before  the  fire. 


ILLINOIS.  893 


THE    MASSACRE    AT    CHICAGO. 

On  the  7th  of  August,  1812,  in  the  afternoon,  Winnemeg,  or  Catfish,  a  friendly 
Indian  of  the  Potawatomie  tribe,  arrived  at  Chicago  and  brought  despatches  from 
General  Hull,  containing  the  first,  a*nd  at  that  time  the  only  intelligence  of  the 
declaration  of  war.  General  Hull's  letter  announced  the  capture  of  Mackinaw, 
and  directed  Captain  Heald  "to  evacuate  the  fort  at  Chicago,  if  practicable,  and 
in  that  event,  to  distribute  all  of  the  United  States  property  contained  in  the  fort, 
and  the  United  States  factory,  or  agency,  among  the  Indians  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  repair  to  Fort  Wayne."  Winnemeg,  having  delivered  his  despatches 
to  Captain  Heald,  and  stated  that  he  was  acquainted  with  the  purport  of  the  com- 
munication he  had  brought,  urged  upon  Captain  Heald  the  policy  of  remaining 
in  the  fort,  being  supplied  as  they  were  with  ammunition  and  provisions  for  a 
considerable  time.  In  case,  however,  Captain  Heald  thought  proper  to  evacuate 
the  place,  he  urged  upon  him  the  propriety  of  doing  so  immediately,  before  the 
Potawatomies  (through  whose  country  they  must  pass,  and  who  were  as  yet  ig- 
norant of  the  object  of  his  mission)  could  collect  a  force  sufficient  to  oppose  them. 
This  advice,  though  given  in  great  earnestness,  was  not  sufficiently  regarded  by 
Captain  Heald  ;  who  observed  that  he  should  evacuate  the  fort,  but  having  re- 
ceived orders  to  distribute  the  public  property  among  the  Indians,  he  did  not  feel 
justified  in  leaving  it  until  he  had  collected  the  Potawatomies  in  its  vicinity,  and 
made  an  equitable  distribution  among  them.  Winnemeg  then  suggested  the  ex- 
pediency of  marching  out,  and  leaving  everything  standing;  "while  the  Indians,'* 
said  he,  "are  dividing  the  spoils,  the  troops  will  be  able  to  retreat  without  mo- 
lestation." This  advice  was  also  unheeded,  and  an  order  for  evacuating  the  fort 
was  read  next  morning  on  parade.  Captain  Heald,  in  issuing  it,  had  neglected 
to  consult  his  junior  officers,  as  it  would  have  been  proper  for  him  to  have  done 
in  such  an  emergency,  and  as  he  probably  would  have  done  had  there  not  been 
some  coolness  between  him  and  Ensign  Ronan. 

The  lieutenant  and  ensign,  after  the  promulgation  of  this  order,  waited  on 
Captain  Heald  to  learn  his  intentions  ;  and  being  apprised,  for  the  first  time,  of 
the  course  he  intended  to  pursue,  they  remonstrated  against  it.  "  We  do  not," 
said  they  to  Captain  Heald,  "  believe  that  our  troops  can  pays  in  safety  through 
the  country  of  the  Potawatomies  to  Fort  Wayne.  Although  a  part  of  their  chiefs 
were  opposed  to  an  attack  upon  us  last  autumn,  they  were  actuated  by  motives 
of  private  friendship  for  some  particular  individuals,  and  not  from  a  regard  to  the 
Americans  in  general ;  and  it  can  hardly  be  supposed  that  in  the  present  excited 
state  of  feeling  among  the  Indians,  those  chiefs  will  be  able  to  influence  the  whole 
tribe,  now  thirsting  for  vengeance.  Besides,"  said  they,  "our  march  must  be 
slow,  on  account  of  the  women  and  children.  Our  force,  too,  is  small.  Some 
of  our  soldiers  are  superannuated,  and  some  of  them  are  invalids.  We  think, 
therefore,  as  your  orders  are  discretionary,  that  we  had  better  fortify  ourselves  as 
strongly  as  possible,  and  remain  where  we  are.  Succor  may  reach  us  before  we 
shall  be  attacked  from  Mackinaw  ;  and,  in  case  of  such  an  event,  we  had  better 
fall  into  the  hands  of  the  English  than  become  victims  of  the  savages."  Captain 
Heald  replied  that  his  force  was  inadequate  to  contend  with  the  Indians,  and 
that  he  should  be  censured  were  he  to  continue  in  garrison  when  the  prospect  of 
a  safe  retreat  to  Fort  Wayne  was  so  apparent.  He  therefore  deemed  it  advisable 
to  assemble  the  Indians  and  distribute  the  public  property  among  them,  and  ask 
of  them  an  escort  thither,  with  the  promise  of  a  considerable  sum  of  money  to  be 
paid  on  their  safe  arrival ;  adding,  that  he  had  perfect  confidence  in  the  friendly 


894  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

professions  of  the  Indians,  from  whom,  as  well  as  from  the  soldiers,  the  capture 
of  Mackinaw  had  studiously  been  concealed. 

From  this  time  forward,  the  junior  officers  stood  aloof  from  their  commander, 
and,  considering  his  project  as  little  short  of  madness,  conversed  as  little  upon 
the  subject  as  possible.  Dissatisfaction,  however,  soon  filled  the  camp ;  the  sol- 
diers began  to  murmur,  and  insubordination  assumed  a  threatening  aspect. 

The  savages,  in  the  meantime,  became  more  and  more  troublesome ;  entered 
the  fort  occasionally  in  defiance  of  the  sentinels,  and  even  made  their  way  with- 
out ceremony  into  the  quarters  of  its  commanding  officer.  On  one  occasion,  an 
Indian,  taking  up  a  rifle,  fired  it  in  the  parlor  of  Captain  Hcald.  Some  were  of 
opinion  that  this  was  intended  as  the  signal  for  an  attack.  The  old  chiefs  at  this 
time  passed  back  and  forth  among  the  assembled  groups,  apparently  agitated, 
and  the  squaws  seemed  much  excited,  as  though  some  terrible  calamity  was  im- 
pending. No  further  manifestations,  however,  of  ill-feeling  were  exhibited,  and 
the  day  passed  without  bloodshed.  So  infatuated  at  this  time  was  Captain  Heald 
that  he  supposed  he  had  wrought  a  favorable  impression  upon  the  savages,  and 
that  the  little  garrison  could  now  march  forth  in  safety. 

From  the  8th  to  the  12th  of  August,  the  hostility  of  the  Indians  was  more  and 
more  apparent;  and  the  feelings  of  the  garrison,  and  of  those  connected  with 
and  dependent  upon  it  for  their  safety,  more  and  more  intense.  Distrust  every- 
where at  length  prevailed,  and  the  want  of  unanimity  among  the  officers  was  ap- 
palling. Every  inmate  retired  to  rest,  expecting  to  be  aroused  by  the  war-whoop ; 
and  each  returning  day  was  regarded  by  all  as  another  step  on  the  road  to  massacre. 

The  Indians  from  the  adjacent  villages  having  at  length  arrived,  a  council  was 
held  on  the  12th  of  August.  It  was  attended,  however,  only  by  Captain  Heald 
on  the  part  of  the  military;  the  other  officers  refused  to  attend,  having  previously 
learned  that  a  massacre  was  intended.  This  fact  was  communicated  to  Captain 
Heald  ;  he  insisted,  however,  on  their  going,  and  they  resolutely  persisted  in  their 
refusal.  When  Captain  Heald  left  the  fort,  they  repaired  to  the  blockhouse, 
which  overlooked  the  ground  where  the  council  was  in  session,  and,  opening  the 
port-holes,  pointed  their  cannon  in  its  direction.  This  circumstance  and  their 
absence,  it  is  supposed,  saved  the  whites  from  massacre. 

Captain  Heald  informed  the  Indians  in  Council  that  he  would  next  day  distri- 
bute among  them  all  the  goods  in  the  United  States  factory,  together  with  the 
ammunition  and  provisions  with  which  the  garrison  was  supplied  ;  and  desired 
of  them  an  escort  to  Fort  Wayne,  promising  them  a  reward  on  their  arrival 
thither,  in  addition  to  the  presents  they  were  about  to  receive.  The  savages  as- 
sented with  professions  of  friendship  to  all  he  proposed,  and  promised  all  he 
required. 

The  council  was  no  sooner  dismissed,  than  several,  observing  the  tone  of  feel* 
ing  which  prevailed,  and  anticipating  from  it  no  good  to  the  garrison,  waited  on 
Captain  Heald,  in  order  to  open  his  eyes,  if  possible,  to  their  condition. 

The  impolicy  of  furnishing  the  Indians  with  arms  and  ammunition,  to  be  used 
against  themselves,  struck  Captain  Heald  with  so  much  force  that  he  resolved, 
without  consulting  his  officers,  to  destroy  all  not  required  for  immediate  use. 

On  August  13th,  the  goods  in  the  factory  store  were  distributed  among  the 
Indians  who  had  collected  near  the  fort ;  and  in  the  evening  the  ammunition, 
and  also  the  liquor  belonging  to  the  garrison,  were  carried,  the  former  into  the 
sallyport  and  thrown  into  the  well,  and  the  latter  through  the  south  gate,  as  si- 
lently as  possible,  to  the  river  bank,  where  the  heads  of  the  barrels  were  knocked 
in  and  their  contents  discharged  into  the  stream. 


ILLINOIS.  895 

The  Indians,  however,  suspecting  the  game,  approached  as  near  as  possible 
and  witnessed  the  whole  scene.  The  spare  muskets  were  broken  up  and  thrown 
into  the  well,  together  with  bags  of  shot,  flints,  and  gun  screws,  and  other 
things ;  all,  however,  of  but  little  value. 

On  the  14th,  the  despondency  of  the  garrison  was  for  a  while  dispelled  by  the 
arrival  of  Captain  Wells  and  15  friendly  Miamis.  Having  heard  at  Fort  Wayne 
of  the  order  to  evacuate  Chicago,  and  knowing  the  hostile  intentions  of  the  Pota- 
watomies,  he  hastened  thither,  in  order  to  save,  if  possible,  the  little  garrison 
from  its  doom.  Having  on  his  arrival  learned  that  the  ammunition  had  been  de- 
stroyed, and  the  provisions  distributed  among  the  Indians,  he  saw  there  was  no 
alternative.  Preparations  were  therefore  made  for  marching  on  the  morrow. 

In  the  afternoon,  a  second  council  was  held  with  the  Indians,  at  which  they 
expressed  their  resentment  at  the  destruction  of  the  ammunition  and  liquor  in 
the  severest  terms.  Notwithstanding  the  precautions  which  had  been  observed, 
the  knocking  in  of  the  heads  of  the  whiskey  barrels  had  been  heard  by  the  In- 
dians, and  the  river  next  morning  tasted,  as  some  of  them  expressed  it,  "like 
strong  grog."  Murmurs  and  threats  were  everywhere  heard,  and  nothing  ap- 
parently was  wanting  but  an  opportunity  for  some  public  manifestation  of  their 
resentment. 

The  morning  of  the  15th  dawned  as  usual.  The  sun  rose  with  uncommon 
splendor,  and  Lake  Michigan  "was  a  sheet  of  burnished  gold." 

Early  in  the  day,  a  message  was  received  in  the  American  camp  from  To-pee- 
na-bee,  a  chief  of  the  St.  Joseph's  band,  informing  them  that  mischief  was  brew- 
ing among  the  Potawatomies,  who  had  promised  them  protection. 

About  9  o'clock,  the  troops  left  the  fort  with  martial  music  and  in  military 
array.  Captain  Wells,  at  the  head  of  the  Miamis,  led  the  van,  his  lace  blackened 
after  the  manner  of  the  Indians.  The  garrison  with  loaded  arms  followed,  and 
the  wagons  with  the  baggage,  the  women  and  children,  the  sick  and  the  lame, 
closed  the  rear.  The  Potawatomies,  about  500  in  number,  who  had  promised  to 
escort  them  in  safety  to  Fort  Wayne,  leaving  a  little  space,  afterward  followed. 
The  party  in  advance  took  the  beach  road.  They  had  no  sooner  arrived  at  the 
sand-hills,  which  separate  the  prairies  from  the  beach,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  fort,  when  the  Potawatomies,  instead  of  continuing  in  the  rear  of  the 
Americans,  left  the  beach  and  took  to  the  prairie.  The  sand-hills,  of  course,  in- 
tervened, and  presented  a  barrier  between  the  Potawatomies  and  the  American 
and  Miami  line  of  march.  This  divergence  had  scarcely  been  effected  when 
Captain  Wells,,  who,  with  the  Miamis,  was  considerably  in  advance,  rode  back 
and  exclaimed  :  "They  are  about  to  attack  us  ;  form  instantly  and  charge  upon 
them."  The  words  had  scarcely  been  uttered  before  a  volley  of  musketry  from 
behind  the  sand-hills  was  poured  in  upon  them.  The  troops  were  brought  im- 
mediately into  a  line,  and  charged  up  the  bank.  One  man,  a  veteran  of  seventy, 
fell  as  they  ascended.  The  battle  at  once  became  general.  The  Miamis  fled  in 
the  outset ;  their  chief  rode  up  to  the  Potawatomies,  charged  them  with  duplicity, 
and,  brandishing  his  tomahawk,  said,  "he  would  be  the  first  to  head  a  party  of 
Americans,  and  return  to  punish  them  for  their  treachery."  He  then  turned  his 
horse  and  galloped  off  in  pursuit  of  his  companions,  who  were  then  scouring 
across  the  prairie,  and  nothing  was  seen  or  heard  .of  them  more. 

The  American  troops  behaved  gallantly.  Though  few  in  number,  they  sold 
their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible.  They  felt,  however,  as  if  their  time  had  come, 
and  sought  to  forget  all  that  was  dear  on  earth. 

While  the  battle  was  raging,  the  surgeon,  Doctor  Yoorhes,  who  was  badly 


896  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

wounded,  and  whose  horse  had  been  shot  from  under  him,  approaching  Mrs. 
Helm,  the  wife  of  Lieutenant  Helm  (who  was  in  the  action,  participating  in  all 
its  vicissitudes),  observed  :  "  Do  you  think,"  said  he,  "they  will  take  our  lives  ? 
I  am  badly  wounded,  but  I  think  not  mortally.  Perhaps  we  can  purchase  safety 
by  offering  a  large  reward.  Do  you  think,"  continued  he,  "there  is  any  chance?" 
— "Doctor  Voorhes,"  replied  Mrs.  Helm,  "let  us  not  waste  the  few  moments 
which  yet  remain,  in  idle  or  ill-founded  hopes.  Our  fate  is  inevitable.  We  must 
soon  appear  at  the  bar  of  God.  Let  us  make  such  preparations  as  are  yet  in  our 
power." — "  Oh,"  said  he,  "  I  cannot  die  !  I  am  unfit  to  die  !  If  I  had  a  short 
time  to  prepare! — Death  ! — oh,  how  awful !" 

At  this  moment  Ensign  Ronan  was  fighting  at  a  little  distance  with  a  tall  and 
portly  Indian  ;  the  former,  mortally  wounded,  was  nearly  down,  and  struggling 
desperately  on  one  knee.  Mrs.  Helm,  pointing  her  finger  and  directing  the  at- 
tention of  Doctor  Voorhes  thither,  observed  :  "  Look,"  said  she,  "at  that  young 
man,  he  dies  like  a  soldier." 

"Yes,"  said  Doctor  Voorhes,  "but  he  has  no  terrors  of  the  future ;  he  is  an 
unbeliever." 

A  young  savage  immediately  raised  his  tomahawk  to  strike  Mrs.  Helm.  She 
sprang  instantly  aside,  and  the  blow  intended  for  her  head  fell  upon  her  shoulder. 
She  thereupon  seized  him  around  his  neck,  and  while  exerting  all  her  efforts  to 
get  possession  of  his  scalping-knife,  was  seized  by  another  Indian,  and  dragged 
forcibly  from  his  grasp. 

The  latter  bore  her,  struggling  and  resisting,  toward  the  lake.  Notwithstand- 
ing, however,  the  rapidity  with  which  she  was  hurried  along,  she  recognized,  as 
she  passed,  the  remains  of  the  unfortunate  surgeon,  stretched  lifeless  on  the  prairie. 

She  was  plunged  immediately  into  the  water  and  held  there,  notwithstanding 
her  resistance,  with  a  forcible  hand.  She  shortly,  however,  perceived  that  the 
intention  of  her  captor  was  not  to  drown  her,  as  he  held  her  in  a  position  to  keep 
her  head  above  the  water.  Thus  reassured,  she  looked  at  him  attentively,  and, 
in  spite  of  his  disguise,  recognized  the  "white  man's  friend."  It  was  Black 
Partridge. 

When  the  firing  had  ceased,  her  preserver  bore  her  from  the  water  and  con- 
ducted her  up  the  sand-bank.  It  was  a  beautiful  day  in  August.  The  heat, 
however,  of  the  sun  was  oppressive,  and  walking  through  the  sand  exposed  to  its 
burning  rays  in  her  drenched  condition,  weary  and  exhausted  by  efforts  beyond 
her  strength,  anxious  beyond  measure  to  learn  the  fate  of  her  friends,  and  alarmed 
for  her  own,  her  situation  was  one  of  agony. 

The  troops  having  fought  with  desperation  till  two-thirds  of  their  number  were 
slain,  the  remainder,  27  in  all,  borne  down  by  an  overwhelming  force  and  ex- 
hausted by  efforts  hitherto  unequalled,  at  length  surrendered.  They  stipulated, 
however,  for  their  own  safety  and  for  the  safety  of  their  remaining  women  and 
children.  The  wounded  prisoners,  however,  in  the  hurry  of  the  moment,  were 
unfortunately  omitted,  or  rather  not  particularly  mentioned,  and  were  therefore 
regarded  by  the  Indians  as  having  been  excluded. 

One  of  the  soldiers'  wives,  having  frequently  been  told  that  prisoners  taken  by 
the  Indians  were  subjected  to  tortures  worse  than  death,  had  from  the  first  ex- 
pressed a  resolution  never  to  be  taken,  and  when  a  party  of  savages  approached 
to  make  her  their  prisoner,  she  fought  with  desperation,  and  though  assured  of 
kind  treatment  and  protection,  refused  to  surrender,  and  was  literally  cut  in 
pieces,  and  her  mangled  remains  left  on  the  field. 

After  the  surrender,  one  of  the  baggage-wagons,  containing  12  children,  was 


ILLINOIS.  897 

assailed  by  a  single  savage,  and  the  whole  number  were  massacred.     All,  with- 
out distinction  of  age  or  sex,  fell  at  once  beneath  his  murderous  tomahawk. 

Captain  Wells,  who  had  as  yet  escaped  unharmed,  saw  from  a  distance  the 
whole  of  this  murderous  scene,  and  being  apprised  of  the  stipulation,  and  on  see* 
ing  it  thus  violated,  exclaimed  aloud,  so  as  to  be  heard  by  the  Potawatomies 
around  him,  whose  prisoner  he  then  was :  "  If  this  be  your  game,  I  will  kill 
too  !  "  and,  turning  his  horse's  head,  instantly  started  for  the  Potawatomie  camp, 
where  the  squaws  and  Indian  children  had  been  left  ere  the  battle  began. 

He  had  no  sooner  started  than  several  Indians  followed  in  his  rear,  and  dis- 
charged their  rifles  at  him  as  he  galloped  across  the  prairie.  He  laid  himself  flat 
on  the  neck  of  his  horse,  and  was  apparently  out  of  their  reach  when  the  ball  of 
one  of  his  pursuers  took  effect,  killing  his  horse  and  wounding  him  severely.  He 
was  again  a  prisoner.  As  the  savages  came  up,  Winnemeg  and  Wa-ban-see,  two 
of  their  number  and  both  his  friends,  used  all  their  endeavors  in  order  to  save 
him  ;  they  had  disengaged  him  already  from  his  horse,  and  were  supporting  him 
along,  when  Pee-so-tum,  a  Potawatomie  Indian,  drawing  a  scalping-knife, 
stabbed  him  in  the  back,  and  thus  inflicted  a  mortal  wound.  After  struggling  for 
a  moment,  he  fell,  and  breathed  his  last  in  the  arms  of  his  friends — a  victim  for 
those  he  had  sought  to  save— a  sacrifice  to  his  own  rash,  presumptuous,  and  per- 
haps indiscreet  intentions. 

The  battle  having  ended,  and  the  prisoners  being  secured,  the  latter  were  con- 
conducted  to  the  Potawatomie  camp  near  the  fort.  Here  the  wife  of  Wau-bee- 
nee-mah,  an  Illinois  chief,  perceiving  the  exhausted  condition  of  Mrs.  Helm, 
took  a  kettle,  and  dipping  up  some  water  from  the  stream  which  flowed  slug- 
gishly by  them,  threw  into  it  some  maple  sugar,  and  stirring  it  up  with  her  hand, 
gave  her  to  drink.  "It  was,"  says  Mrs.  Helm,  "the  most  delicious  draught  I 
had  ever  taken,  and  her  kindness  of  manner  amid  so  much  atrocity  touched  my 
heart."  Her  attention,  however,  was  soon  directed  to  other  objects.  The  fort, 
after  the  troops  had  marched  out,  became  a  scene  of  plunder.  The  cattle  were 
shot  down  as  they  ran  at  large,  and  lay  dead,  or  were  dying  around  her.  It 
called  up  afresh  a  remark  of  Ensign  Rouan's,  made  before:  "Such,"  said  he, 
"is  to  be  our  fate — to  be  shot  down  like  brutes." 

The  wounded  prisoners,  we  have  already  remarked,  were  not  included  in  the 
stipulation  made  on  the  battle  field,  as  the  Indians  understood  it.  On  reaching, 
therefore,  the  Potawatomie  camp,  a  scene  followed  which  beggars  description. 
A  wounded  soldier  lying  on  the  ground  was  violently  assaulted  by  an  old  squaw, 
infuriated  by  the  loss  of  friends,  or  excited  by  the  murderous  scenes  around  her — 
who,  seizing  a  pitchfork,  attacked  with  demoniac  ferocity  and  deliberately  mur- 
dered in  cold  blood  the  wretched  victim,  now  helpless  and  exposed  to  the  burn- 
ing rays  of  the  sun,  his  wounds  already  aggravated  by  its  heat,  and  he  writhing 
in  torture.  During  the  succeeding  night  5  other  wounded  prisoners  were  toma- 
hawked. 

Those  unwounded  remained  in  the  wigwams  of  their  captors.     The  work  of 

plunder  being  now  completed,  the  fort  next  day  was  set  on  fire.     A  fair  and  equal 

distribution  of  all  the  finery  belonging  to  the  garrison  had  apparently  been  made, 

and  shawls,  ribbons,  and  feathers  were  scattered  about  the  camp  in  great  profusion. 

Most  of  the  prisoners  remained  among  the  Indians  until  the  treaty  made  in  the 

next  year,  when  they  were  returned  to  their  friends.     Captain  Heald  and  his 

wife,  and  Lieutenant  Helm  and  his  wife,  were  ransomed  soon  after  their  capture, 

Their  sufferings  and  perils,  however,  during  their  short  captivity  were  most  trying 

57 


MICHIGAN. 

Area, 56,451  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 749,113 

Population  in  1870, 1,184,059 

THE  State  of  Michigan  is  situated  between  41°  40'  and  47°  30'  N. 
latitude,  and  82°  12'  and  90°  30'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  Canada  and  Lake  Superior,  on  the  east  by  the  River 
Ste.  Marie,  Lake  Huron,  the  Lake  and  River  St.  Glair,  the  Detroit 
River,  and  Lake  Erie,  which  separate  it  from  Canada,  on  the  south 
by  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Wisconsin,  and  on  the  west  by  Wisconsin  and 
Lake  Michigan. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

Lakes  Michigan  and  Huron,  and  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  divide 
the  State  into  two  unequal  peninsulas.  The  Northern  Peninsula  is 
about  320  miles  long,  from  southeast  to  northwest,  with  an  extreme 
width  of  130  miles.  The  Southern  Peninsula  is  about  283  miles 
long,  from  north  to  south,  and  210  miles  wide  in  its  broadest  part. 

"  The  Southern  Peninsula  of  Michigan,  so  interesting  in  its  agri- 
cultural and  economical  aspects,  is  rather  tame  in  its  topographical 
features,  as  there  is  no  considerable  elevation  (compared  with  the 
country  immediately  around  it)  within  its  whole  extent,  though  the 
ridge  which  divides  the  waters  flowing  into  Lakes  Huron  and  Erie 
from  those  flowing  into  Lake  Michigan,  is  300  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lakes,  and  about  1000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  country,  how- 
ever, may  be  generally  characterized  as  a  vast  undulating  plain,  sel- 
dom becoming  rough  or  broken.  There  are  occasional  conical  eleva- 
tions of  from  150  to  200  feet  in  height,  but  generally  much  less.  The 
898 


MICHIGAN. 


899 


A   WESTERN   RIVER. 


shores  of  Lake  Huron  are  often  steep,  forming  bluffs ;  while  those  of 
Lake  Michigan  are  coasted  by  shifting  sand-hills  of  from  100  to  200 
feet  in  height.  In  the  southern  part  are  those  natural  parks,  thinly 
scattered  over  with  trees,  called  in  the  parlance  of  the  country,  <  oak 
openings;7  and  in  the  southwest  are  rich  prairie  lands.  The  Northern 
Peninsula  exhibits  a  striking  contrast,  both  in  soil  and  surface,  to  the 
southern.  While  the  latter  is  level  or  moderately  undulating,  and 
luxuriantly  fertile,  the  former  is  picturesque,  rugged,  and  even  moun- 
tainous, with  streams  abounding  in  rapids  and  waterfalls — rich  in 
minerals,  but  rigorous  in  climate,  and  sterile  in  soil.  The  Wisconsin 
or  Porcupine  Mountains,  which  form  the  watershed  between  Lakes 
Michigan  and  Superior,  are  much  nearer  the  latter  than  the  former, 
and  attain  an  elevation  of  about  2000  feet  in  the  northwestern  portion 
of  the  peninsula.  The  eastern  part  of  this  division  of  the  State  is 
undulating  and  picturesque,  but  the  central  is  hilly,  and  composed  of 
table-land.  The  shores  of  Lake  Superior  are  composed  of  a  sandstone 
rock,  which,  in  many  places,  is  worn  by  the  action  of  the  wind  and 
waves  into  fancied  resemblances  of  castles,  etc.,  forming  the  celebrated 


900  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Pictured  Rocks ;  while  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan  are  composed  of 
a  limestone  rock.  The  streams  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  Porcu- 
pine Mountains  have  a  rapid  descent,  and  abound  in  picturesque  falls 
and  rapids.  The  Northern  Peninsula  is  primitive,  and  the  Southern 
secondary ;  but  primitive  rocks  are  scattered  over  the  plains  of  the 
latter,  of  more  than  100  tons  weight,  most  abundant  on  the  borders 
of  the  Great  Lakes,  on  the  flanks  of  valleys,  and  where  traces  of  recent 
floods  are  apparent."  * 

Lake  Superior  washes  the  northern  shore  of  the  State,  Lake 
Michigan  the  western,  and  Lakes  Huron  and  Erie  the  eastern.  They 
have  all  been  described,  together  with  the  channels  connecting  them, 
in  the  chapter  devoted  to  the  United  States.  Detroit,  between  Lakes 
Erie  and  St.  Clair,  and  Grand  Haven  on  Lake  Michigan,  are  the 
principal  ports  of  the  State. 

The  principal  bays  are  Saginaw  and  Thunder  bays  on  Lake  Huron, 
Tequamenon  and  Kewechaw  bays  on  Lake  Superior,  and  Green, 
Little  and  Grand  Traverse  bays,  and  the  Great  and  Little  Bays  des 
Noquets  on  Lake  Michigan. 

A  number  of  small  lakes  lie  in  the  State.  They  possess  no  com- 
mercial value,  but  form  a  beautiful  feature  of  the  landscape. 

The  rivers  of  the  State  are  nearly  all  small.  The  Detroit  and 
Ste.  Marie  have  been  noticed.  Those  of  the  southern  peninsula  empty 
into  Lakes  Michigan,  Huron  and  Erie.  Those  flowing  into  Lake 
Michigan  are  the  St.  Joseph's,  Kalamazoo,  Grand,  Maskegon  and 
Manistee.  The  Au  Sable  and  Saginaw  flow  into  Lake  Huron,  the 
latter  through  Saginaw  Bay,  and  the  Huron  and  Raisin  into  Lake 
Erie.  The  rivers  of  the  northern  peninsula  are  fine  mill  streams,  but 
are  unfit  for  navigation  by  reason  of  rocks  and  rapids.  The  principal 
are  the  Menomonee,  Montreal,  and  Ontonagon.  The  first  flows  into 
Green  Bay,  and  the  others  into  Lake  Superior. 

A  group  of  Islands,  forming  Manitou  county,  lies  in  the  northern 
part  of  Lake  Michigan. 

MINERALS. 

"  The  upper  peninsula,  rich  in  minerals,  prominent  among  which 
is  copper,  is  mostly  of  primitive  geological  character;  the  lower  exclu- 
sively secondary.  The  copper  deposits  among  the  primary  rocks  of 
the  northern  peninsula  are  the  richest  in  the  world,  the  copper  belt 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer,  p.  1189. 


MICHIGAN.  901 

being  120  miles  long  and  from  2  to  6  miles  wide.  A  block  of  several 
tons  of  almost  pure  copper,  taken  from  the  mouth  of  Ontonagon 
River,  has  been  built  into  the  wall  of  the  Washington  monument  at 
the  national  capital.  A  mass  weighing  150  tons  was  uncovered,  in 
1854,  in  the  North  American  mine.  Isle  Royale  abounds  in  this 
mineral ;  one  house  in  that  district,  during  five  and  a  half  months  of 
1854,  shipped  over  2,000,000  of  pounds,  and  in  the  nine  years  pre- 
vious there  were  produced  4824  tons.  The  yield  of  copper  in  the 
State  has  risen  to  an  annual  average  of  8000  tons,  with  promise  of 
steady  increase.  The  opening  of  the  St.  Mary's  Canal  and  the  clear- 
ing of  the  entrance  into  Portage  Lake  have  given  fresh  impetus  to  this 
branch  of  mining  industry,  which  is  becoming  one  of  the  most  cherished 
interests  of  the  State.  Silver  has  been  found  in  connection  with  the 
copper  in  the  proportion  of  from  25  to  50  per  cent,  of  the  precious 
metal.  Iron  of  a  superior  quality  has  been  discovered  in  a  bed  of  slate 
from  6  to  25  miles  wide,  and  150  long,  extending  into  Wisconsin. 
In  the  production  of  this  mineral,  in  1863,  Michigan  was  only  second 
to  Pennsylvania,  having  produced  273,000  tons  of  ore.  Bituminous 
coal  is  mined  on  an  enlarging  scale  to  meet  the  demand  of  manufac- 
tures. Salt  also  exists  in  quantities  repaying  the  investment  of  capital. 
The  high  prices  lately  prevailing  have  caused  a  rapid  development 
of  the  salt  fields  around  Saginaw,  a  basin  some  40  or  50  miles  square, 
in  which,  by  boring  some  800  feet,  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  brine 
is  obtained,  yielding  80  or  90  per  cent,  of  salt."  * 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  the  State  is  less  severe  than  that  of  other  portions 
of  the  country  in  the  same  latitude,  being  greatly  tempered  by  the  lake 
breezes. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  in  the  middle  and  lower  part  of  the  southern  peninsula  is 
very  rich,  and  yields  handsome  returns.  It  consists  generally  of  a 
deep,  dark,  rich  sandy  loam,  which  is  frequently  mixed  with  gravel 
and  clay.  The  northern  part  abounds  in  excellent  timber.  The 
northern  peninsula  is  heavily  wooded  with  white  pine,  spruce,  hem- 
lock, birch,  and  oak.  The  hardier  grains  do  well  in  this  part  of  the 
State,  but  maize  is  not  suited  to  it. 

*  General  Land  Office  Report. 


902  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

There  are  upwards  of  5,000,000  acres  of  improved  land  in  the  State. 
The  principal  agricultural  returns  are  as  follows : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 16,800,000 

Indian  corn, 14,100,000 

oats, 8,700,000 

Irish  potatoes, .10,325,000 

u  rye^ 160,000 

u  peas  and  beans, 350,000 

buckwheat, 450,000 

barley, 840,000 

Tons  of  hay, 1,300,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 25,000,000 

cheese, 675,000 

Number  of  horses, 230,000 

41  asses  and  mules, 2,500 

"  milch  cows, 255,000 

sheep, 2,000,000 

swine, 425,000 

44  young  cattle, 270,000 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $52,000,000 

Pounds  of  wool, 8,750,000 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Wheat,  and  otVier  grains,  flour,  pork,  lumber,  copper,  and  wool,  are 
the  principal  exports  of  the  State.  Michigan  is  admirably  located  for 
commerce,  having  many  good  harbors,  and  an  immense  water  front. 
In  1863,  the  foreign  exports  of  the  State  were  valued  at  $2,008,599, 
and  the  imports  at  $771,834. 

Manufactures  are  yet  in  their  infancy.  In  1860,  there  were  in  this 
State  3448  establishments  devoted  to  manufactures,  mining,  and  the 
mechanic  arts.  They  employed  a  capital  of  $23,808,226,  consumed 
raw  material  worth  $17,635,611,  and  yielding  an  annual  product  of 
$32,658,356.  The  principal  products  were  valued  as  follows : 

Pig-iron, $291,400 

Copper, $2,292,186 

Sawed  and  planed  lumber, $7,033,427 

Flour, $8,663,288 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  18  72,  there  were  2235  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Michigan,  con- 
structed at  a  cost  of  over  $100,000,000.  Theonly  railroad  in  the  northern 
peninsula  is  from  the  upper  end  of  Green  Bay  to  the  iron  region.  In 


MICHIGAN.  903 

the  lower  peninsula  the  railroads  lie  south  of  Saginaw  Bay,  beyond 
which  the  State  is  comparatively  unsettled.  The  principal  towns  of 
the  State  have  railroad  communication  with  each  other  and  with  all 
parts  of  the  Union. 

EDUCATION. 

There  are  seven  colleges  in  Michigan,  the  principal  of  which  is  the 
University  of  Michigan,  which  is  located  at  Ann  Arbor,  in  the  south- 
east part  of  the  State.  It  embraces  departments  of  literature,  law,  and 
medicine,  and,  in  1867,  was  attended  by  1255  students. 

The  State  has  a  Normal  School  at  Ypsilanti.  It  was  opened  in 
1854,  and  is  in  a  prosperous  condition. 

The  system  of  public  education  is  under  the  general  supervision  of 
a  State  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction,  who  is  elected  by  the 
people  for  two  years.  Each  county  is  in  charge  of  a  County  Superin- 
tendent, who  manages  the  schools  thereof. 

In  1870,  there  were  5110  public  schools  in  Michigan,  attended  by 
278,686  children.  The  amount  expended  on  these  schools  during  the 
year  was  $2,783,943.  The  State  has  three  distinct  school  funds  (the 
Primary  School,  University,  and  Normal  School  Funds),  amounting 
in  the  aggregate  to  $2,925,644. 

In  1870,  there  were  181  private  schools  in  the  State,  attended  by 
about  12,000  pupils. 

In  1870,  there  were  26,763  libraries  in  the  State,  with  2,174,744 
volumes. 

In  the  same  year,  there  were  16  daily,  3  tri-weekly,  174  weekly, 
and  18  other  newspapers  and  periodicals  published  in  the  State,  mak- 
ing a  total  of  211.  Of  these,  167  were  political,  7  religious,  and  37 
miscellaneous.  Their  total  annual  circulation  was  19,686,978 
copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  Michigan  State  Prison  is  located  at  Jackson.  It  is  provided 
with  ample  buildings,  and  in  November,  1870,  contained  663  convicts. 
The  prisoners  are  required  to  labor,  and  the  institution  is  self-sup- 
porting. 

The  Reform  School,  at  Lansing,  was  opened  in  1856,  and  contains 
about  262  boys. 

The  Michigan  Insane  Asylum  is  located  at  Kalamazoo.  It  was 
opened  in  1859.  On  the  1st  of  January,  1870,  it  contained  305  in- 
mates— 156  males  and  149  females. 


904  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind  is  at 
Flint.  It  was  opened  in  1854,  and,  in  1870,  contained  120  deaf 
mutes,  and  30  blind  persons. 

State  prisoners  are  sent  to  the  Detroit  House  of  Correction  (a  city 
institution)  for  crimes  punishable  with  imprisonment  in  the  county 
jails. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  1415  churches  in  Michigan.  The  value  of 
church  property  was  $9,133,816. 

FINANCES. 

On  the  30th  of  November,  1870,  the  State  debt  amounted  to 
$2,385,028.  The  total  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year 
ending  on  that  date,  including  a  balance  of  $834,089  on  hand  from 
the  previous  year,  amounted  to  $2,552,613,  and  the  total  expenditures 
for  the  same  period  to  $2,094,305. 

In  1868  there  were  42  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $5,210,010, 
doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

All  citizens  of  the  United  States  over  21  years  of  age,  who  have 
resided  in  the  State  six  months,  and  all  male  foreigners  who  have 
resided  in  the  State  two  years,  and  have  declared  their  intention  to 
become  citizens  six  months  before  the  elections,  are  entitled  to  vote  at 
the  elections  in  this  State.  All  civilized  Indians  residing  in  the  State, 
not  belonging  to  any  tribe,  are  also  entitled  to  vote. 

The  government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor-General,  and  Attorney-General, 
and  a  Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  32  members)  and  a  House 
of  Representatives  (of  100  members),  all  elected  by  the  people  for  2 
years.  The  Legislature  meets  biennially,  on  the  first  Wednesday  in 
January.  The  general  election  is  held  in  November. 

The  Courts  of  the  State  are  the  Supreme  Court,  Circuit  Courts, 
Probate  Courts,  and  Courts  held  by  Justices  of  the  Peace.  The 
Supreme  Court  consists  of  four  judges,  elected  for  8  years,  one  judge 
retiring  every  2  years.  All  judges  in  this  State  are  elected  by  the 
people. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Lansing. 

The  State  is  divided  into  62  counties. 


MICHIGAN.  905 

HISTORY. 

Michigan  was  first  settled  by  the  French.  It  derives  its  name 
from  an  Indian  word  (Michi-sawg-ye-gan),  meaning  "  the  Lake 
Country."  In  1630  the  French  missionaries  established  a  station  on 
Lake  Huron,  and  in  1660  founded  one  on  Lake  Superior.  In  1668 
a  mission  was  established  at  the  Sault-Ste.-Marie,  and  in  1671  Father 
Marquette  founded  the  mission  of  St.  Ignatius  on  the  main  land,  to 
the  north  of  the  island  of  Mackinaw.  These  missionaries  were  so 
successful  in  their  efforts  that  nearly  all  the  Hurons  were  converted 
to  Christianity.  Soon  after  this  became  known  to  the  other  tribes, 
the  converts  were  attacked,  and  massacred  or  dispersed  by  the  Iroquois. 

In  1667  the  trading  posts  were  garrisoned  by  French  soldiers  by 
order  of  the  king  of  France,  who  wished  to  foster  the  fur  trade.  In 
1701  Detroit  was  founded  by  a  colony  from  Montreal.  A  fort  was 
erected  and  garrisoned  for  the  protection  of  the  settlement,  and  a 
flourishing  trade  opened  with  the  western  Indians.  The  settlements 
languished,  however.  The  home  Government  did  but  little  to  encourage 
them,  and  the  Iroqnois  were  their  constant  enemies. 

In  1763  the  whole  country  passed,  with  Canada,  into  the  hands  of 
the  British.  Pontiac,  one  of  the' leading  chiefs,  now  induced  the 
tribes  to  take  concerted  measures  for  the  expulsion  of  the  whites. 
Simultaneous  attacks  were  made  upon  the  English  forts.  Mackinaw 
was  taken  by  stratagem,  and  all  the  western  posts  were  captured  and 
destroyed.  Detroit  was  invested  and  besieged  for  several  months. 
It  held  out  bravely,  however,  and  the  majority  of  the  Indians,  be- 
coming tired  of  the  siege,  returned  to  their  homes.  Thus  deserted 
by  his  allies,  Pontiac  was  forced  to  abandon  the  struggle. 

In  1783  Michigan,  as  a  part  of  the  Northwest  Territory,  became 
the  property  of  the  United  States.  The  British,  however,  appreciat- 
ing the  importance  of  Detroit,  held  on  to  it  for  a  much  longer  time, 
and  did  not  finally  surrender  it  to  the  Americans  until  1796. 

In  1805  the  territory  of  Michigan  was  organized,  and  General 
William  Hull,  an  officer  who  had  served  gallantly  through  the  Revo- 
lution, was  appointed  Governor.  Detroit  was  made  the  seat  of 
government. 

The  Territory  was  sparsely  settled,  but  suffered  much  during  the 
second  war  with  England.  The  fortress  of  Mackinaw  was  surren- 
dered to  the  British  and  Indians  on  the  17th  of  July,  1812.  On  the 
15th  of  August,  General  Hull  surrendered  Detroit  to  General  Brock, 


906  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

without  making  the  least  effort  to  defend  it.  In  January,  1813, 
General  Winchester  was  surprised  and  surrounded  at  Frenchtown 
on  the  River  Raisin,  by  a  strong  force  of  British  troops  and  Indians. 
He  made  a  stubborn  defence,  but  finally  surrendered  upon  the  condi- 
tion that  his  men  should  be  protected  from  the  Indians.  General 
Proctor  violated  his  word,  however,  and  suffered  his  Indian  allies 
to  massacre  Americans,  the  wounded  and  many  of  the  disarmed 
prisoners.  * 

In  September,  1813,  the  gloom  which  the  reverses  of  the  Americans 
had  cast  over  the  frontier  was  lightened  by  the  splendid  victory  won 
over  the  British  fleet  in  Lake  Erie,  only  a  few  miles  from  the  shores 
of  Michigan,  by  Commodore  O.  II.  Perry.  This  was  followed  by  the 
evacuation  of  Detroit  by  the  British,  and  the  important  triumph 
achieved  by  the  American  army  under  General  Harrison,  over  the 
British  and  Indians,  on  the  banks  of  the  River  Thames,  in  Canada, 
and  but  a  few  miles  distant  from  Detroit.  Tecumseh  was  killed  in 
this  battle.  Several  other  minor  actions  occurred  along  the  Michigan 
frontier,  but  the  Territory  was  not  again  occupied  by  the  enemy. 

In  1820  the  population  of  the  Territory  was  8900  souls,  and  in  this 
estimate  the  dwellers  in  the  present  State  of  Wisconsin  were  included. 

"About  the  year  1832,  the  tide  of  emigration  began  to  set  strong 
towards  Michigan  Territory.  Steamboat  navigation  had  opened  a 
new  commerce  upon  the  lakes,  and  had  connected  the  eastern  lakes 
and  their  population  with  the  Illinois  and  Upper  Mississippi.  This 
immense  lake  navigation  encircled  the  peninsula  of  Michigan.  It 
became  an  object  of  exploration.  Its  unrivalled  advantages  for  navi- 
gation, its  immense  tracts  of  the  most  fertile  arable  lands,  adapted  to 
the  cultivation  of  all  the  northern  grains  and  grasses,  attracted  the 
attention  of  western  emigrants.  The  tide  soon  began  to  set  strong 
into  Michigan.  Its  fine  level  and  rolling  plains,  its  deep  and  endur- 
ing soil,  and  its  immense  advantages  for  trade  and  commerce  had  be- 
come known  and  duly  appreciated.  The  hundreds  of  canoes,  pirogues, 
and  barges,  with  their  half-civilized  couriers  du  bois,  which  had  annu- 
ally visited  Detroit  for  more  than  a  century,  had  given  way  to  large 
and  splendid  steamboats,  which  daily  traversed  the  lakes  from  Buffalo 
to  Chicago,  from  the  east  end  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  south-western  ex- 
tremity of  Lake  Michigan.  Nearly  a  hundred  sail  of  sloops  and 
schooners  were  now  traversing  every  part  of  these  inland  seas.  Under 
these  circumstances,  how  should  Michigan  remain  a  savage  wilderness  ? 
New  York  State  and  the  New  England  States  began  to  send  forth  their 


MICHIGAN.  907 

numerous  colonies,  and  the  wilderness  to  smile.  At  the  end  of  two 
years  more,  or  in  1834,  the  population  of  Michigan  had  increased  to 
87,273  souls,  exclusive  of  Indians.  The  following  year  the  number 
amounted  to  more  than  90,000  persons,  distributed  over  38  counties, 
comprised  in  the  southern  half  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  '  attached 
Huron,  or  Wisconsin  District/  lying  west  of  Lake  Michigan.  The 
town  of  Detroit,  which  in  1812  was  a  stockade  village,  had  now  be- 
come'a  city/ with  nearly  2500  inhabitants.  The  humble  villages 
and  wigwams  of  the  Indians,  sparsely  distributed  over  a  wide  extent 
of  wilderness,  had  now  given  way  to  thousands  of  farms  and  civilized 
habitations.  Towns  and  smiling  villages  usurped  the  encampment 
and  the  battle-field.  The  fertile  banks  of  the  '  River  Raisin '  were 
crowned  with  hamlets  and  towns  instead  of  the  melancholy  stockade. 
A  constitution  had  been  adopted  on  the  15th  of  June,  1836,  and  the 
'  State  of  Mijhigan'  was  admitted  into  the  Union  on  the  26th  day  of 
January,  1837,  and  Stephens  T.  Mason  was  made  the  first  Governor." 
During  the  late  war  Michigan  contributed  90,119  troops  to  the 
service  of  the  United  States. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  the  State  are, 
Detroit,  Grand  Rapids,  Adrian,  Kalamazoo,  Ann  Arbor,  Jackson  and 
Monroe. 

LANSING, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Ingham  county,  on  the  Grand 
River,  110  miles  northwest  of  Detroit.  Latitude  42°  42'  30"  N. ; 
longitude  84°  28'  W. 

The  city  was  originally  laid  out  upon  quite  an  extensive  plan,  and 
is  not  yet  built  with  sufficient  compactness  to  do  justice  to  the  designs 
of  its  founders.  The  streets  are  broad,  intersect  each  other  at -right- 
angles,  and  are  shaded  with  trees.  The  principal  building  is  the 
State  House,  a  large  and  handsome  structure,  located  on  an  eminence, 
50  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  The  State  Agricultural  College 
is  located  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  House  of  Correction,  for  juvenile 
offenders,  stands  in  the  eastern  portion  of  the  city.  Lansing  contains 
a  female  college,  2  good  public  schools,  2  newspaper  offices,  and  12 
churches.  In  1870,  the  population  was  5241. 

The  city  has  railway  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  State. 
The  river  affords  excellent  water-power,  which  is  used  for  operating 
several  flour  mills  and  factories 


908  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

In  1847,  a  Mr.  James  Seymour,  owning  some  land  on  the  Grand 
River,  made  a  proposition  to  the  Legislature  of  Michigan,  that  if  they 
would  remove  the  seat  of  Government  on  to  his  lands,  he  would  give 
20  acres,  and  erect  the  capitol  and  buildings  for  the  use  of  the  State 
authorities.  This  offer  was  not  accepted,  but  the  Legislature  passed  a 
bill  locating  the  capital  in  the  township.  At  this  period  but  one 
family  occupied  the  site  of  the  future  capital.  In  May,  1847,  the 
town  of  Lansing  was  laid  out,  and  within  the  next  few  weeks  one 
thousand  persons  moved  into  the  place,  which  was  named  from  Lan- 
sing in  New  York,  the  former  home  of  some  of  the  settlers.  In  1850, 
the  seat  of  Government  was  formally  transferred  from  Detroit  to  this 

place. 

DETROIT, 

The  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  situated  on  the  right  or  northwest  bank 
of  the  Detroit  River,  18  rniles  from  the  head  of  Lake  Erie,  8  miles 
from  the  outlet  of  Lake  St.  Glair,  and  110  miles  by  railsvay  from 
Lansing.  The  width  of  the  river  averages  about  five-eighths  of  a 
mile,  the  width  from  the  docks  of  Detroit  to  the  opposite  docks  of  Wind- 
sor, in  Canada,  being  about  half  a  mile.  The  depth  between  the  docks 
varies  from  12  to  48  feet,  averaging  32  feet;  the  descent  from  Lake 
St.  Clair  to  Lake  Erie  is  about  6  feet,  averaging  3  inches  per  mile ; 
and  the  velocity  of  the  current  in  the  deepest  part  opposite  the  city  is 
two  miles  and  a  half  per  hour.  The  stream  is  so  deep  and  its  current 
so  strong  and  uniform,  that  it  keeps  itself  clear,  and  its  navigation  is 
not  affected  as  is  that  of  the  Mississippi,  with  either  rocks,  sand-bars, 
trees,  or  sawyers.  Its  current  also  carries  along  the  ice  with  a  slow 
and  uniform  motion,  so  that  it  is  never  dammed  up  in  winter,  while 
the  St.  Lawrence,  at  Montreal,  is  shallow,  full  of  rocks,  against  which 
the  ice  lodges,  and  often  forms  a  dam  across  the  river,  and  raises  the 
water  from  20  to  25  feet,  overflowing  its  low  banks  for  miles,  and 
sweeping  off  and  destroying  large  amounts  of  property.  These  pecu- 
liarities make  Detroit  a  secure  and  accessible  harbor  in  all  seasons. 

Bordering  the  river,  along  which  it  extends  for  several  miles,  and 
for  1200  feet  back  from  the  water,  the  plan  of  the  city  is  rectangular. 
In  the  rear  of  this  portion  it  is  triangular.  The  city  covers  an  area 
of  about  10  square  miles,  and  is  for  the  most  part  well  built.  The 
streets  and  avenues  are  wide,  many  of  them  from  100  to  200  feet. 
Five  of  these  centre  at  a  public  ground,  called  the  Grand  Circus.  In 
the  city  are  several  public  squares  or  spaces,  the  principal  of  which 


MICHIGAN. 


909 


WOODWARD   AVENUE,    DETROIT. 


are  the  Grand  Circus  and  the  Campus  Martins.  The  streets  are  gen- 
erally well  paved,  with  broad  side  walks,  and  are  shaded  with  noble 
forest  trees.  Jefferson  and  Woodward  avenues,  and  Congress  street 
are  the  most  important  thoroughfares.  Lines  of  street  cars  connect 
the  principal  points  of  the  city. 

A  large  portion  of  the  city  is  built  of  wood,  but  of  late  years,  brick, 
stone,  and  iron  have  been  largely  used  in  erecting  new  edifices  and  in 
improving  old  ones.  In  consequence  of  this,  the  business  streets  now 
present  a  handsome  appearance,  and  in  the  private  sections  are  to  be 
found  many  elegant  and  tasteful  residences. 

The  principal  buildings  are  the  Custom  House,  a  magnificent  stone 
edifice ;  the  City  Hall,  a  fine  structure  of  stone ;  and  the  Old  State 
House,  now  used  for  literary  purposes. 

The  city  contains  about  66  public  schools,  each  of  which  is  provided 
with  handsome  and  convenient  buildings.  The  citizens  are  very 
proud  of  their  free  school  system,  and  with  good  reason. 

The  benevolent  and  charitable  institutions  are  numerous,  and  are 
well  conducted.  The  principal  establishments  are  the  Industrial 
School,  the  Harper,  St.  Mary's,  and  Marine  Hospitals,  the  Orphan 
Asylum,  and  the  House  for  the  Friendless.  In  the  Industrial  School, 


910  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  ragged  and  vagrant  children  of  the  city  are  gathered  and  taught 
to  read,  write,  and  sing,  to  mend  and  make  their  clothing,  and  are 
given  a  good  meal  every  day. 

The  city  contains  about  38  churches,  some  of  which  are  among  its 
principal  ornaments,  11  newspaper,  and  3  magazine  offices,  and  3  first- 
class  hotels.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water, 
\vhich  is  pumped  from  the  Detroit  River  by  means  of  a  steam  engine 
into  a  hydraulic  reservoir,  from  which  it  is  supplied  to  the  city  pipes. 
The  city  is  provided  with  an  efficient  police  force  and  a  steam  fire  de- 
partment, and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the 
population  was  79,577. 

The  admirable  position  of  Detroit  has  made  it  an  important  com- 
mercial point.  It  controls  a  large  share  of  the  commerce  between  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  but  its  chief  source  of  prosperity  is  the  lake 
trade.  Commanding  the  only  outlet  of  the  three  upper  lakes,  it  of 
necessity  controls  a  large  share  of  their  commerce,  and  also  conducts  a 
large  trade  with  the  ports  of  Lake  Erie.  It  is  largely  interested  in 
the  rich  trade  which  the  working  of  the  copper  and  iron  mines  of 
Lake  Superior  has  developed.  Regular  lines  of  steamers  ply  between 
the  city  and  the  ports  on  the  lakes.  Detroit  has  direct  railway  com- 
munication with  all  parts  of  the  Union,  and  the  terminus  of  the  Great 
Western  Railway  of  Canada  is  at  Windsor,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river.  The  grain  trade  of  Detroit  is  important,  and  is  increasing 
every  year. 

The  city  is  extensively  engaged  in  manufactures.  The  most  im- 
portant articles  produced  are  locomotives,  iron  machinery,  window 
sashes  and  blinds,  cabinet  ware,  leather,  malt  liquors,  iron  and  brass 
ware,  and  lumber.  The  Detroit  Copper  Smelting  Works  annually 
smelt  over  $2,000,000  worth  of  copper  ore  into  ingot  copper.  Apother 
large  establishment  is  engaged  in  manufacturing  iron  from  the  iron 
ore  sent  from  the  Lake  Superior  mines. 

In  1670,  the  French  built  a  fort  on  the  present  site  of  Detroit. 
The  vicinity  at  this  time  was  occupied  by  villages  of  the  Huron,  Po- 
tawatomy,  and  Ottowa  Indians.  Ninety  years  later,  in  1760,  the 
French  posts  passed  into  the  hands  of  Great  Britain.  In  1783, 
after  the  close  of  the  Revolution,  Detroit  became  a  part  of  the  United 
States,  but  was  not  formally  delivered  up  to  the  American  forces  until 
1796.  By  this  time  a  straggling  town  had  sprung  up  around  the 
fort;  the  inhabitants  of  which  were  principally  French  Canadians. 
On  the  llth  of  June,  1805,  this  town  was  entirely  destroyed  by  fire; 


MICHIGAN.  911 

but,  undismayed  by  this  reverse,  the  inhabitants  at  once  set  to  work 
to  rebuild  it.  The  Territory  of  Michigan  had  been  organized  in  the 
ealier  part  of  the  same  year,  and  the  Governor,  General  William 
Hull,  caused  the  town  to  be  laid  out  upon  a  new  plan,  which  is  sub- 
stantially that  of  the  present  city.  On  the  15th  of  August,  1812,  the 
town  and  fort  were  surrendered  by  General  Hull  to  the  British. 
They  held  it  until  the  29th  of  September  of  the  same  year,  when  they 
evacuated  it  and  retired  into  Canada.  Upon  the  admission  of  Michi- 
gan into  the  Union  as  a  State,  Detroit  became  the  capital  (in  1836), 
and  remained  the  seat  of  Government  until  1850,  when  Lansing  be- 
came the  capital. 

GRAND  RAPIDS, 

A  leading  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Kent  county,  on  both  sides 
of  the  Grand  River,  at  the  Rapids  of  that  stream,  40  miles  from  its 
mouth,  60  miles  west-northwest  of  Lansing,  and  loO  miles  north- 
west of  Detroit. 

It  is  well  built,  and  is  prominent  among  the  northwestern  cities  for 
the  improvement  it  is  making  in  the  style  of  its  architecture.  The 
streets  are  wide,  and  are  generally  well  paved.  The  city  contains  12 
churches,  several  public  and  private  schools,  and  6  newspaper  offices. 
It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  water.  The  Government 
consists  of  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  16,507. 

The  Grand  River  here  is  900  feet  in  width,  and  falls  18  feet  in  the 
course  of  a  mile,  producing  ample  water-power,  which  is  employed  in 
turning  a  number  of  flouring  and  saw  mills,  and  iron  founderies. 
The  city  does  an  immense  business  in  lumber,  lime,  gypsum,  and 
building  stone,  which  are  found  in  large  quantities  in  the  vicinity. 
Salt  springs  of  unusual  strength  exist  in  the  immediate  neighborhood. 
The  water  is  much  stronger  than  that  of  the  Syracuse  wells  in  New 
York,  requiring  but  29  gallons  to  produce  a  bushel  of  salt.  The 
manufacture  of  this  article  is  rapidly  increasing  in  importance.  A 
large  portion  of  the  yearly  product  finds  a  market  in  Chicago.  Grand 
Rapids  is  the  great  seat  of  the  lumber  trade  of  Western  Michigan. 
The  country  watered  by  the  Grand  River  is  one  of  the  richest  timber 
regions  in  the  world,  and  is  steadily  adding  to  the  wealth  of  the  State. 

There  is  railway  communication  between  Grand  Rapids  and  all  parts 
of  the  Union.  Large  steamers  ply  between  the  city  and  Grand 
Haven,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where  they  connect  with  the  lake 
steamers ;  and  small  steamers  ascend  the  stream  to  Lyons,  about  50 
miles  above  the  Rapids. 


912  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Grand  Rapids  is  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  State.  It  was 
settled  in  1833,  laid  out  as  a  village  in  1836,  and  incorporated  as  a 
city  in  1850. 

ADRIAN, 

In  Lenawee  county,  is  a  growing  city.  It  is  situated  on  a 
branch  of  the  Raisin  River,  80  miles  southeast  of  Lansing,  and  70 
miles  west-southwest  of  Detroit.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and 
is  woll  built.  It  contains  several  fine  public  buildings,  10  churches, 
several  public  and  private  schools,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  supplied  with  water,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor 
and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  8438. 

Adrian  lies  in  the  centre  of  a  rich  farming  region,  of  which  it  is  the 
principal  market.  The  river  furnishes  admirable  water-power,  which 
is  used  by  a  number  of  manufacturing  establishments.  The  city  is 
connected  with  all  parts  of  the  State  by  railway,  and  has  grown  rapidly 
since  the  completion  of  these  improvements.  It  was  settled  in  1828, 
and  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1853. 

MISCELLANIES. 

PONTIAC'S    EFFORT    TO    CAPTURE    DETROIT. 

As  every  appearance  of  war  waft  at  an  end,  and  the  Indians  seemed  to  be  on  a 
friendly  footing,  Pontiac  approached  Detroit  without  exciting  any  suspicions  in 
the  breast  of  the  Governor  or  the  inhabitants.  He  encamped  at  a  little  distance 
from  it,  and  let  the  commandant  know  that  he  was  come  to  trade  ;  and  being  de- 
sirous of  brightening  the  chain  of  peace  between  the  English  and  his  nation, 
desired  that  he  and  his  chiefs  might  be  admitted  to  hold  a  council  with  him.  The 
Governor,  still  unsuspicious,  and  not  in  the  least  doubting  the  sincerity  of  the 
Indians,  granted  their  general's  request,  and  fixed  on  the  next  morning  for  their 
reception. 

On  the  evening  of  that  day  an  Indian  woman,  who  had  been  appointed  by 
Major  Gladwyn  to  make  a  pair  of  Indian  shoes  out  of  a  curious  elkskin,  brought 
them  home.  The  major  was  so  pleased  with  them  that,  intending  these  as  a 
present  for  a  friend,  he  ordered  her  to  take  the  remainder  back  and  make  it  into 
others  for  himself.  He  then  directed  his  servant  to  pay  her  for  those  she  had 
done,  and  dismissed  her.  The  woman  went  to  the  door  that  led  to  the  street, 
but  no  further ;  she  there  loitered  about  as  if  she  had  not  finished  the  business  on 
which  she  came.  A  servant  at  length  observed  her,  and  asked  her  why  she 
stayed  there.  She  gave  him,  however,  no  answer. 

Some  short  time  after,  the  Governor  himself  saw  her,  and  inquired  of  his  ser- 
vant what  occasioned  her  stay.  Not  being  able  to  get  a  satisfactory  answer,  he 
ordered  the  woman  to  be  called  in.  When  she  came  into  his  presence,  he  de- 
sired to  know  what  was  the  reason  of  her  loitering  about,  and  not  hastening 
home  before  the  gates  were  shut,  that  she  might  complete  in  dne  time  the  work 
he  had  given  her  to  do.  She  told  him,  after  much  hesitation,  that  as  he  had  always 


MICHIGAN.  913 

behaved  with  great  goodness  towards  her,  she  was  unwilling  to  take  away  the 
remainder  of  the  skin,  because  he  put  so  great  a  value  upon  it ;  and  yet  had  not 
been  able  to  prevail  upon  herself  to  tell  him  so.  He  then  asked  her  why  she  was 
more  reluctant  to  do  so  now  than  she  had  been  when  she  made  the  former  pair. 
With  increased  reluctance  she  answered,  that  she  should  never  be  able  to  bring 
them  back. 

His  curiosity  was  now  excited ;  he  insisted  on  her  disclosing  the  secret  that 
seemed  to  be  struggling  in  her  bosom  for  utterance.  At  last,  on  receiving  a 
promise  that  the  intelligence  she  was  about  to  give  him  should  not  turn  to  her 
prejudice  ;  and  that,  if  it  appeared  to  be  beneficial,  she  should  be  rewarded  for  it. 
she  informed  him  that  at  the  council  to  be  held  with  the  Indians  on  the  following 
day,  Pontiac  and  his  chiefs  intended  to  murder  him,  and,  after  having  massacred 
the  garrison  and  inhabitants,  to  plunder  the  town.  That  for  this  purpose  all  the 
chiefs  who  were  to  be  admitted  into  the  council-room  had  cut  their  guns  short,  so 
that  they  could  conceal  them  under  their  blankets ;  with  which,  on  a  signal  given 
by  their  general  on  delivering  the  belt,  they  were  all  to  rise  up  and  instantly  to 
fire  on  him  and  his  attendants.  Having  effected  this,  they  were  immediately  to 
rush  into  the  town,  where  they  would  find  themselves  supported  by  a  great  num- 
ber of  their  warriors  that  were  to  come  into  it  during  the  pitting  of  the  council 
under  the  pretence  of  trading,  but  privately  armed  in  the  same  manner.  Having 
gained  from  the  woman  every  neccssarj'  particular  relative  to  the  plot,  and  also 
the  means  by  which  she  acquired  a  knowledge  of  them,  he  dismissed  her  with 
injunctions  of  secrecy,  and  a  promise  of  fulfilling  on  his  part  with  punctuality  the 
engagements  he  had  entered  into. 

The  intelligence  the  Governor  had  just  repeived  gave  him  great  uneasiness, 
and  he  immediately  consulted  the  officer  who  was  next  him  in  command  on  the 
subject.  But  this  gentleman,  considering  the  information  as  a  story  invented  for 
some  artful  purpose,  advised  him  to  pay  no  attention  to  it.  This  conclusion, 
however,  had  happily  no  weight  with  him.  He  thought  it  prudent  to  conclude  it 
to  be  true  till  he  was  convinced  it  was  not  so  ;  and  therefore,  without  revealing 
his  suspicions  to  any  other  person,  he  took  every  needful  precaution  that  the  time 
would  admit  of.  He  walked  around  the  fort  for  the  whole  night,  and  saw  him- 
self that  every  sentinel  was  upon  duty,  and  every  weapon  of  defence  in  proper 
order. 

As  he  traversed  the  ramparts  that  lay  nearest  to  the  Indian  camp,  he  heard 
them  in  high  festivity,  and,  little  imagining  that  their  plot  was  discovered,  pro- 
bably pleasing  themselves  with  the  anticipation  of  their  success.  As  soon  as  the 
morning  dawned,  he  ordered  all  the  garrison  under  arms,  and  then,  imparting  his 
apprehensions  to  a  few  of  the  principal  officers,  gave  them  such  directions  as  he 
thought  necessary.  At  the  same  time  he  sent  round  to  all  the  traders  to  inform 
them,  that  as  it  was  expected  a  great  number  of  Indians  would  enter  the  town 
that  day,  who  might  be  inclined  to  plunder,  he  desired  they  would  have  their 
arms  ready,  and  repel  any  attempt  of  that  kind. 

About  10  o'clock,  Pontiac  and  his  chiefs  arrived,  and  were  conducted  to  the 
council  chamber,  where  the  Governor  and  his  principal  officers,  each  with  pistols 
in  his  belt,  awaited  his  arrival.  As  the  Indians  passed  on,  they  could  not  help 
observing  that  a  greater  number  of  troops  than  usual  were  drawn  up  on  the 
parade,  or  marching  about.  No  sooner  were  they  entered,  and  seated  on  the 
skins  prepared  for  them,  than  Pontiac  asked  the  Governor  on  what  occasion  h'j 
young  men,  meaning  the  soldiers,  were  thus  drawn  up  and  parading  the  streets. 


914  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

He  received  for  answer  that  it  was  only  intended  to  keep  them  perfect  in  their 
exercise. 

The  Indian  chief  warrior  now  began  his  speech,  which  contained  the  strongest 
professions  of  friendship  and  good-will  towards  the  English  :  and  when  he  came 
to  the  delivery  of  the  belt  of  wampum,  the  particular  mode  of  which,  according 
to  the  woman's  information,  was  to  be  the  signal  for  the  chiefs  to  fire,  the  Gover- 
nor and  all  his  attendants  drew  their  swords  half  way  out  of  their  scabbards  ;  and 
the  soldiers  at  the  same  time  made  a  clattering  with  their  arms  before  the  door, 
which  had  been  purposely  left  open.  Pontiac,  though  one  of  the  bravest  men, 
immediately  turned  pale  and  trembled  ;  and  instead  of  giving  the  belt  in  the 
manner  proposed,  delivered  it  according  to  the  usual  way.  His  chiefs,  who  had 
impatiently  expected  the  signal,  looked  at  each  other  with  astonishment,  but 
continued  quiet  waiting  the  result. 

The  Governor,  in  his  turn,  made  a  speech ;  but,  instead  of  thanking  the  great 
warrior  for  the  professions  of  friendship  he  had  just  uttered,  he  accused  him  of 
being  a  traitor.  He  told  him  that  the  English,  who  knew  everything,  were  con- 
vinced  of  his  treachery  and  villanous  designs ;  and  as  a  proof  that  they  wero 
acquainted  with  his  most  secret  thoughts  and  intentions,  he  stepped  towards  an 
Indian  chief  that  sat  nearest  to  him,  and  drawing  aside  the  blanket,  discovered 
the  shortened  firelock.  This  entirely  disconcerted  the  Indians  and  frustrated 
their  design. 

He  then  continued  to  tell  them,  that"  as  he  had  given  his  word,  at  the  time  they 
had  desired  an  audience,  that  their  persons  should  be  safe,  he  would  hold  his 
promise  inviolable,  though  they  so  little  deserved  it.  However,  he  desired  them 
to  make  the  best  of  their  way  out  of  the  fort,  lest  his  young  men,  on  being 
acquainted  with  their  treacherous  purposes,  should  cut  every  one  of  them  to 
pieces. 

Pontiac  endeavored  to  contradict  the  accusation,  and  to  make  excuses  for  his 
suspicious  conduct ;  but  the  Governor,  satisfied  of  the  falsity  of  his  protestations, 
would  not  listen  to  him.  The  Indians  immediately  left  the  fort ;  but,  instead  of 
being  sensible  of  the  Governor's  generous  behaviour,  they  threw  off  the  mask, 
and  the  next  day  made  a  regular  attack  upon  it. 

Thus  foiled,  Pontiac  laid  formal  siege  to  the  fortress,  and  for  many  months  that 
siege  was  continued  in  a  manner  and  with  a  perseverance  unexampled  among 
the  Indians.  Even  a  regular  commissariat  department  was  organized,  and  bills 
of  credit  drawn  out  upon  bark  were  issued,  and,  what  is  rarer,  punctually  paid. 

MASSACRE    AT    THE    RIVER    RAISIN. 

Immediately  after  the  battle  of  the  18th  of  January,  1813,  some  of  the  French 
inhabitants,  who  had  sold  provisions  to  the  British,  followed  them  to  Maiden  to 
get  their  pay.  On  their  return,  they  brought  word  that  the  British  and  Indians 
were  collecting  in  large  force,  to  the  amount  of  3000,  to  attack  Frenchtown. 
General  Winchester  paid  but  little  attention  to  these  reports,  feeling  considerable 
confidence  in  his  own  strength,  and  expecting  reinforcements  that  would  render 
him  safe  beyond  a  doubt,  before  the  enemy  could  possibly  attack  him.  The 
British  seemed  to  be  aware  that  they  must  make  the  attack  before  these  reinforce- 
ments came  up,  if  they  wished  to  effect  anything ;  hence  they  hastened  their 
preparations.  On  the  21st,  several  of  the  more  prominent  French  citizens  went 
to  Winchester  and  told  him  that  they  had  reliable  information  that  the  American 


MICHIGAN.  915 

camp  would  be  attacked  that  night  or  the  next  day.  He  was  so  infatuated  that 
he  paid  no  further  deference  to  their  statement  than  to  order  those  soldiers  who 
were  scattered  around  the  settlement,  drinking  cider  with  the  inhabitants,  to 
assemble  and  remain  in  camp  all  night. 

About  daylight,  on  the  morning  of  the  23d  of  January,  1813,  a  large  force  of 
British  and  Indians,  under  Proctor  and  the  celebrated  Indian  chiefs,  Round  Head 
and  Split  Log,  attacked  the  camp  of  the  Americans.  The  attack  was  made  all 
along  the  lines,  but  the  British  forces  were  more  particularly  led  against  the 
upper  camp,  occupied  by  Major  Madison  and  Colonels  Lewis  and  Allen,  and  the 
Indians  against  the  lower  camp,  occupied  by  Colonel  Wells.  The  British  were 
unsuccessful  at  their  part  of  the  lines,  where  the  Americans  fought  with  great 
bravery,  and  were  protected  very  much  by  the  pickets,  which,  being  placed  at 
some  distance  from  the  woods,  afforded  the  Kentucky  riflemen  a  tine  opportunity 
to  shoot  the  enemy  down  as  they  were  advancing.  An  attempt  was  then  mado 
by  the  British  to  use  a  field  piece  just  at  the  edge  of  the  woods,  by  which  they 
hoped  to  prostrate  the  pickets  and  batter  down  the  houses,  but  the  Kentuckiano, 
with  their  sharpshooters,  picked  the  men  off  as  fast  as  they  attempted  to  load  it, 
so  that  they  were  forced  to  abandon  the  attack  and  suffer  a  repulse. 

While  these  things  were  happening  at  the  upper  camp,  a  far  different  state  of 
things  existed  at  the  lower  one.  The  attack  of  the  Indians  was  so  impetuous, 
the  position  so  indefensible,  and  the  American  force  so  inadequate,  consisting  of 
only  200  men,  that,  notwithstanding  the  bravery  of  Colonel  Wells  and  his  men, 
it  was  impossible  to  retain  the  position.  Colonels  Lewis  and  Allen  attempted  to 
take  a  reinforcement  to  the  right  wing,  to  enable  Colonel  Wells  to  retreat  up  the 
river  on  the  ice,  under  cover  of  the  high  bank,  to  the  upper  camp.  But  before 
they  arrived  at  the  lower  camp,  the  fire  of  the  savages  had  become  so  galling  that 
Wells  was  forced  to  abandon  his  position.  This  he  attempted  to  do  in  good 
order,  but  as  soon  as  his  men  began  to  give  way,  the  Indians  redoubled  their 
cries  and  the  impetuosity  of  their  attack,  so  that  the  retreat  speedily  became  a 
rout.  In  this  condition  they  were  met  by  Colonel  Allen,  who  made  every  effort 
to  call  them  to  order  and  lead  them  in  safety  to  the  upper  camp.  But,  notwith- 
standing the  heroic  exertions  of  Colonel  Allen,  and  his  earnest  protestations  and 
commands,  they  continued  their  disordered  flight,  and  from  some  unaccountable 
reason,  probably  through  an  irresistible  panic,  caused  by  the  terrible  cries  and 
onslaught  of  the  savages,  instead  of  continuing  up  the  river  to  the  upper  camp, 
they  fled  diagonally  across  to  the  Hull  road,  so  called,  which  led  to  Maumce,  and 
attempted  to  escape  to  Ohio.  And  now  the  flight  became  a  carnage.  The  Indians 
seeing  the  disorder  of  the  Americans,  who  thought  of  nothing  save  running  for 
their  lives,  and  escaping  the  tomahawks  of  the  savages,  having  warriors  posted 
all  along  the  woods  which  lined  or  were  within  a  short  distance  of  the  river,  now 
raised  the  cry  that  the  Americans  were  flying,  which  cry  was  echoed  by  thousands 
of  warriors,  who  all  rushed  to  the  spot  and  outstripped  the  fleeing  soldiers.  Some 
followed  them  closely  in  their  tracks  and  brained  them  with  their  tomahawks 
from  behind  ;  some  posted  themselves  on  both  sides  of  the  narrow  road  and  shot 
them  down  as  they  passed  ;  and  finally  some  got  in  advance,  and  headed  them 
off  at  Plumb  Creek,  a  small  stream  about  a  mile  from  the  River  Raisin.  Here 
the  panic-stricken  soldiers,  who  had  thrown  away  most  of  their  arms  to  facilitate 
their  flight,  huddled  together  like  sheep,  with  the  brutal  foe  on  all  sides,  were 
slaughtered,  and  so  closely  were  they  hemmed  in,  tradition  says,  that  after  :the 
battle,  40  dead  bodies  were  found  lying  scalped  and  plundered  on  2  rods  square. 


916  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

General  Winchester,  impressed  with  the  foolish  idea  that  an  attack  would  not 
be  made,  had  retired  the  night  before  without  having  made  any  arrangements  for 
safety  or  dispatch  in  case  of  an  attack.  Therefore,  when  awakened  by  the  firing, 
he  and  his  aids  made  great  confusion,  all  crying  for  their  horses,  which  were  in 
Colonel  Navarre's  stable,  the  servants  scarcely  awake  enough  to  equip  them  with 
haste.  The  luckless  commander  became  very  impatient  to  join  his  forces,  nearly 
a  mile  distant,  and,  to  gratify  his  desire,  Colonel  Navarre  offered  him  his  best 
and  fleetest  horse,  which  had  been  kept  saddled  all  night,  as  Navarre,  in  common 
with  all  the  French  inhabitants,  expected  an  attack  before  morning.  On  this 
horse  he  started  for  the  camp,  but,  on  the  way,  finding  that  a  large  number  of 
the  troops  were  then  fleeing  on  the  Hull  road,  he  followed  after  them  to  rally 
them,  and,  if  possible,  regain  the  day  ;  but  on  his  way  he  was  taken  prisoner  by 
An  Indian  Csaid  to  have  been  Jack  Brandy),  who  knew  by  his  clothes  that  he  was 
an  officer,  and  therefore  spared  his  life.  Proctor  persuaded  the  Indian  to  deliver 
him  over  into  his  hands.  Colonel  Allen  was  also  taken  prisoner  about  the  same 
time-  he  had  behaved  with  extraordinary  courage  during  the  whole  action, 
although  wounded  in  the  thigh.  He  waa  finally  killed  by  an  Indian  while  held 
a  prisoner. 

With  Winchester  as  his  prisoner,  Proctor  felt  that  he  could  dictate  terms  to 
that  portion  of  the  American  troops  under  the  command  of  Major  Madison  in  the 
upper  camp,  who  had  thus  far  made  a  successful  resistance.  Proctor  sent  with  a 
flag  one  of  General  Winchester's  aids,  with  the  peremptory  orders  of  the  latter, 
directing  Major  Madison  to  surrender.  Colonel  Proctor  had  demanded  an  imme- 
diate surrender,  or  he  would  burn  the  settlement,  and  allow  the  Indians  to 
massacre  the  prisoners  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  place.  Major  Madison  replied, 
that  it  was  customary  for  the  Indians  to  massacre  the  wounded  and  prisoners 
after  a  surrender,  and  he  would  not  agree  to  any  capitulation  General  Winchester 
might  make,  unless  the  safety  and  protection  of  his  men  were  guaranteed.  After 
trying  in  vain  to  get  an  unconditional  surrender,  Major  Madison  and  his  men 
being  disposed  to  sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible,  rather  than  run  the  risk  of 
being  massacred  in  cold  blood,  Proctor  agreed  to  the  terms  demanded,  which 
were,  that  private  property  should  be  respected,  that  sleds  should  be  sent  next 
morning  to  take  the  sick  and  wounded  to  Maiden,  and  that  their  side  arms  should 
be  restored  to  the  officers  on  their  arrival  there. 

These  terms  completed,  the  surrender  was  made,  and  the  prisoners,  and  British, 
and  Indians  started  for  Maiden  ;  not,  however,  until  the  Indians  had  violated  the 
first  article  of  the  agreement,  by  plundering  the  settlement.  But  finally  all 
departed,  except  the  sick  and  wounded  American  soldiers,  who  were  left  in  the 
two  houses  of  the  upper  camp,  to  await  the  coming  of  the  sleds  on  the  morrow. 
Only  two  or  three  persons  were  left  in  charge  of  them,  a  neglect  which  was 
nearly  or  quite  criminal  on  the  part  of  Proctor.  The  last  and  most  disgraceful 
scene  in  this  bloody  tragedy  was  yet  to  be  enacted.  The  sleds  that  were  to  take 
the  ill-fated  sufferers  to  Maiden  never  came.  In  their  stead  came,  the  next 
morning,  300  Indians,  painted  black  and  red,  determined  on  massacreing  the 
wounded  Americans,  in  revenge  for  their  loss  the  day  before.  The  slaughter 
soon  commenced  in  earnest.  Breaking  into  the  houses  where  the  Americans 
were,  they  first  plundered  and  then  tomahawked  them.  The  houses  were  set  on 
fire,  and  those  within  were  consumed  ;  if  any  attempted  to  crawl  out  of  the  doors 
or  windows,  they  were  wounded  with  the  hatchet  and  pushed  back  into  the 
flames :  those  that  happened  to  be  outside  were  stricken  down,  and  their  dying 


MICHIGAN.  917 

bodies  thrown  into  the  burning  dwellings.  Major  Wolfolk,  the  secretary  of 
General  Winchester,  was  killed  in  the  massacre.  Thus  ended  the  "Massacre  of 
the  River  Raisin."  Thus  perished  in  cold  blood  some  of  Kentucky's  noblest 
heroes  :  their  death  filled  with  sorrow  many  homes  south  of  the  Ohio.  No  monu- 
ment marks  the  place  of  their  death :  but  little  is  known  of  the  private  history  of 
those  brave  spirits  who  traversed  a  wilderness  of  several  hundred  miles,  and  gave 
tip  their  lives  for  their  country :  who  died  alone,  unprotected,  wounded,  in  a 
settlement  far  from  the  abode  of  civilization. 

But  few  of  the  killed  were  ever  buried.  Their  bones  lay  bleaching  in  the  cun 
for  years.  On  the  4th  of  July,  1818,  a  company  of  men  under  the  charge  of 
Colonel  Anderson,  an  old  settler  of  Frenchtown,  went  to  the  spot  of  the  battle 
and  collected  a  large  quantity  of  the  bones,  and  buried  them,  with  appropriate 
ceremonies,  in  the  old  graveyard  in  Monroe.  For  years  after,  however,  it  was 
not  uncommon  to  find  a  skull,  fractured  by  the  fatal  tomahawk,  hidden  away  in 
some  clump  of  bushes,  where  the  dogs  and  wild  beasts  had  dragged  the  body  to 
devour  its  flesh. 


WISCONSIN. 

Area, 53,924  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 775,881 

Population  in  1870, 1,054,670 

THE  State  of  Wisconsin  is  situated  between  42°  30'  and  46°  55'  N. 
latitude,  and  between  87°  and  92°  50'  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Michigan,  Lake  Superior  and  Minnesota ;  on  the  east 
by  Lake  Michigan ;  on  the  south  by  Illinois ;  and  on  the  west  by 
Iowa  and  Minnesota.  Its  extreme  length,  from  north  to  south,  is  about 
285  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  east  to  west,  about  255  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  of  the  State  is  generally  an  elevated  rolling  prairie. . 
The  highest  point  is  in  the  northwest,  while  a  slight  ridge  divides  the 
waters  flowing  into  Lake  Superior  from  those  flowing  into  the  Mis- 
sissippi. Another  ridge  crosses  the  south  central  part  of  the  State.  A 
third  ridge  crosses  the  southeast  corner,  and  separates  the  rivers  flow- 
ing into  Green  Bay  from  those  emptying  into  Lake  Michigan.  The 
rivers  which  flow  into  Lake  Superior  descend  abruptly  to  it,  and  are 
broken  by  numerous  falls  and  rapids,  which  afford  fine  mill  sites. 

Lake  Superior  washes  the  northern  shore  of  the  State,  and  Lake 
Michigan  the  western. 

Green  Bay  enters  the  State  from  Lake  Michigan,  in  the  extreme 
northeast.  It  is  about  100  miles  long,  and  from  15  to  35  miles  wide. 
It  lies  between  this  State  and  the  northern  peninsula  of  Michigan.  It 
has  an  average  depth  of  500  feet,  and  abounds  in  picturesque  scenery. 
It  possesses  an  active  trade,  and  is  navigated  by  steamers  to  Green 
Bay  City,  its  head.  The  Fox  River  unites  the  Bay  with  Lake  Win- 
918 


WISCONSIN.  919 

nebago,  about  25  miles  south  of  Green  Bay  City.  This  lake  is  about 
28  miles  long,  and  about  10  miles  wide.  It  is  navigable  for  steamers, 
as  is  also  the  Fox  River.  The  scenery  is  very  beautiful.  Fond  du 
Lac,  at  the  southern  end  of  the  Lake,  is  the  principal  town.  From 
Oshkosh,  on  the  western  side  of  the  Lake,  a  ship  canal  has  been  con- 
structed to  Portage  City,  which  affords  uninterrupted  communication 
between  the  Mississippi  River  and  Lake  Michigan.  The  Mississippi 
River  washes  the  southwestern  shore  of  the  State  as  far  as  Prescot, 
where  it  bends  to  the  northwest,  and  passes  into  Minnesota.  It  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  the  St.  Croix,  the  Chippewa,  the  Black,  the  Bad 
Axe,  and  the  Wisconsin  rivers.  The  St.  Croix  River  rises  south  of 
the  western  end  of  Lake  Superior,  and  flows  southwest  to  the  Minne- 
sota line,  when  it  turns  to  the  south,  separates  Wisconsin  from  Min- 
nesota, and  empties  into  the  Mississippi  about  40  miles  southeast  of 
St.  Paul.  It  is  about  200  miles  long.  Near  its  mouth  it  expands 
into  a  lake  36  miles  long;  and  4  miles  wide,  known  as  St.  Croix 
Lake.  It  is  about  100  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  It  is  repeatedly 
broken  by  falls.  The  Chippewa  is  about  200  miles  long,  and  the 
Black  about  150.  The  Wisconsin  River  rises  in  the  extreme 
northern  part  of  the  State,  and  flows  south  to  Portage  City,  where  it 
is  joined  by  the  waters  of  a  'number  of  small  lakes,  extending  north- 
east into  Lake  Winnebago.  This  chain  forms  the  Grand  Portage,  by 
means  of  which  water  communication  is  maintained  between  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  the  lakes.  From  Portage  City  it  flows  southwest  into  the 
Mississippi,  near  Prairie  du  Chien.  It  is  about  500  miles  long,  and 
is  navigable  for  steamers  for  about  200  miles.  The  Menomonee  forms 
a  part  of  the  northeast  boundary,  and  flows  into  Green  Bay.  It  falls 
1049  feet  during  its  course,  and  is  an  excellent  mill  stream. 
A  number  of  small  lakes  are  scattered  through  the  State. 

MINERALS.  * 

f 

"  The  mineral  resources  of  the  State  are  varied  and  valuable.  The 
lead  region  of  Illinois  and  Iowa  extends  over  an  area  of  2140  square 
miles  in  Wisconsin,  which  compares  with  the  other  portions  in  the 
abundance  and  richness  of  the  ores.  In  1863,  there  were  848,625 
pounds  of  lead  received  at  Milwaukee.  The  completion  of  the 
Southern  Wisconsin  Railroad  will  raise  the  aggregate  to  2,500,000 
pounds.  It  is  mingled  with  copper  and  zinc  ores.  The  iron  region 
of  Lake  Superior  presents  within  the  limits  of  this  State  abundant 
deposits  of  great  richness.  Magnetic  iron,  plumbago,  and  the  non- 


920 


TIIE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 


COPPER    MIXE. 

metallic  earths  abound.  Copper  deposits  have  also  been  developed, 
bat  as  yet  have  only  been  worked  to  a  limited  extent.  Beautiful 
marbles,  susceptible  of  elaborate  working,  exist.  The  mineral  pro- 
ductions are  rapidly  opening  a  very  inviting  field  for  capital  and  in- 
dastry,  promising  an  immense  addition  to  the  resources  of  this 
energetic  young  State."  * 

CLIMATE. 

The  winters  are  long  and  severe,  but  the  temperature  is  somewhat 
mitigated  by  the  lake  breezes.  The  summers  are  warm,  but  pleasant. 
The  State  is  healthy  as  a  general  rule,  and  is  less  liable  than  other 
new  places  to  the  diseases  incident  to  new  settlements,  owing  to  the 
openness  of  the  country. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil,  as  a  general  rule,  is  fertile,  and  is  productive,  even  in  tlrj 
mineral  regions  of  the  north.  The  best  lands  are  on  the  prairies, 
where  the  soil  consists  of  a  dark  brown  vegetable  mould,  from  one  to 

*  Report  .of  the  General  Land  Office. 


WISCONSIN.  921 

two  feet  in  depth,  very  mellow,  and  entirely  destitute  of  stones  or 
gravel. 

"  Wisconsin  possesses  abundant  timber  resources,  and  an  immense 
lumbering  business  is  carried  on  in  many  of  the  northern  and  western 
counties,  the  pineries  of  Marathon,  Chippewa,  Clark,  Wood,  St. 
Croix,  and  other  counties,  furnishing  many  millions  of  feet  of  logs  and 
lumber  annually.  Our  Clark  correspondent  claims  that  100,000,000 
feet  of  pine  timber  is  cut  each  year  in  that  county  alone  ;  while  in 
Monroe  30,000,000  feet  is  annually  cut  into  lumber  by  about  twenty 
mills.  Hard  wood  timber  also  abounds  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  and 
there  are  few  counties  without  sufficient  wood  for  local  uses.  The 
lumbering  business  is  a  source  of  great  profit  to  those  engaged  in  it, 
and  in  Brown  county  parties  boast  of  cutting  enough  white  pine  logs 
from  eighty  acres  to  net  $1200  to  $1500."  * 

Wheat,  corn,  oats,  potatoes,  and  hay,  are  the  staple  crops  of  this 
State,  the  first  named  being  the  most  important. 

In  1870,  there  were  in  Wisconsin  5,795,538  acres  of  improved  land. 
In  the  same  year  the  returns  were  as  follows : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 25,323,647 

rye 1,356,736 

'  u          Indian  corn,        14,875,968 

"          oats, 19,878,794 

barley, 1,627,569 

"          potatoes, 6,642,845 

Pounds  of  wool, 4,086,638 

butter, 22,257,117 

cheese, 1,494,145 

hops, 4,738,222 

Tons  of  hay, •   .     .     * 1,280,432 

Number  of  horses, 149,989 

"          asses  and  mules, 1,998 

"         cattle, 480,319 

"          sheep, 790,458 

"          swine, .  865,998 

milch  cows, 250,312 

Value  of  domestic  animals,  about, $28,000,000 

Estimated  value  of  all  farm  productions,   .    .     .  $77,507,261 
Total  assessed  value  of  real  and  personal  estate,  $326,765,238 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Possessing  water  communication  with  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the 
Mississippi,  Wisconsin  has  a  growing  commerce.  Her  exports  of  grain 

*  Agricultural  Report,  April,  1868. 


922  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  lumber  are  very  large.  In  1863,  the  foreign  exports  were  valued 
at  $3,323,637,  and  the  imports  at  $24,479.  A  large  part  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  State  passes  through  Chicago. 

Manufactures  are  yet  in  their  infancy.  In  1870,  there  were  in  the 
State  7136  establishments,  employing  39,055  operatives,  and  pro- 
ducing goods  to  the  amount  of  $85,624,966. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  State  contained,  in  1872,  1725  miles  of  completed  railroads, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $45,000,000.  The  principal  towns  of  the 
State  are  connected  with  each  other,  and  with  all  parts  of  the  Union. 
The  main  lines  lead  either  to  Chicago,  Illinois,  or  to  St.  Louis, 
Missouri. 

Besides  these  roads,  there  is  the  Portage  Canal,  already  mentioned, 
connecting  the  Wisconsin  with  Lake  Winnebago,  which  was  con- 
structed by  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

There  are  seven  colleges  in  the  State,  the  principal  of  which  is  the 
State  University ,  at  Madison.  It  embraces  a  College  of  Letters,  a 
College  of  Arts,  a  Preparatory  Department,  and  a  Female  Department. 
It  is  well  endowed. 

There  is  a  Normal  School  at  Platteville,  and  one  at  Whitewater, 
and  measures  are  on  foot  to  establish  others  at  Stoughton,  Oshkosh, 
and  Sheboygan.  Teachers'  Institutes  are  held  at  stated  times  in 
various  parts  of  the  State. 

The  educational  system  is  under  the  general  supervision  of  a  Super- 
intendent of  Public  Instruction,  elected  by  the  people  of  the  State  for 
two  years.  Each  county  and  each  city  has  a  separate  Superintendent, 
who  manages  its  affairs,  as  in  the  other  Western  States.  There  is  a 
permanent  school  fund,  amounting  to  $2,205,487.  In  1870,  the 
amount  expended  for  the  schools  was  $2,094,160.  The  number  of 
public  schools  was  5000,  attended  by  264,525  pupils. 

In  the  same  year  there  were  about  400  private  schools  in  the  State, 
attended  by  about  30, 000  pupils. 

In  1870,  there  were  2857  libraries  in  Wisconsin,  containing  880,508 
volumes. 

In  the  same  year,  the  number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  pub- 
lished in  tho  State  was  173,  nearly  all  political.  They  had  an  ag- 
gregate annual  circulation  of  nearly  11,000,000  copies. 


WISCONSIN.  923 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Prison  is  located  at  Waupun,  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  the 
country.  In  October,  1870,  it  contained  217  convicts.  In  May,  1870, 
the  workshops  were  destroyed  ;  loss,  $70,000. 

The  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  at  Madison,  is  an  excellent  institution, 
and  is  in  a  prosperous  condition.  In  October,  1870,  it  contained  532 
inmates. 

The  Institute  for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  at  Delavan, 
and  the  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Blind,  at  Janesville.  The 
former  contains  about  122,  and  the  latter  64  pupils.  They  are  excel- 
lent institutions,  and  besides  furnishing  their  pupils  with  the  rudiments 
of  a  plain  education,  teach  them  some  simple,  but  useful  employment. 

The  State  Reform  School,  at  Waukesha,  is  in  excellent  condition, 
and  is  conducted  on  the  family  system.  In  1870,  it  contained  239 
boys  and  girls. 

The  Soldiers'  Orphan's  Home  School,  at  Madison,  is  in  a  prosperous 
condition,  and  is  crowded  to  its  utmost  capacity.  In  1870,  it  con- 
tained 331  pupils. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  1466  churches  in  Wisconsin.  The  value  of 
church  property  was  $4,890,781. 

FINANCES. 

In  1870,  the  total  debt  of  the  State  amounted  to  $2,252,057.  The 
receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year,  ending  September  30th, 
1870,  were  $886,696,  and  the  expenditures  $906,329. 

In  1868,  there  were  34  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $2,960,- 
000  doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

In  this  State,  all  citizens  of  the  United  States,  without  regard  to 
color,  all  foreigners  who  have  legally  declared  their  intention  to  be- 
come citizens,  Indians  who  have  been  declared  citizens  by  Congress, 
and  civilized  persons  of  Indian  descent  who  do  not  belong  to  any 
tribe,  are  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is*  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  State  Treasurer,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a  Legis- 


924  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

lature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  33  members)  and  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives (of  100  members),  all  chosen  by  the  people.  The  State 
officers  and  Senators  are  elected  for  two  years,  and  Representatives  for 
one  year.  The  general  election  is  held  in  November. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court  (consisting  of  a 
Chief  Justice  and  two  Associates,  elected  by  the  people  for  six  years), 
Circuit  Courts,  County  Courts  with  probate  powers,  and  in  Justices  of 
the  Peace.  All  judges  are  elected  by  the  people. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Madison. 

The  State  is  divided  into  58  counties. 

HISTORY. 

The  country  west  of  Lake  Michigan  was  first  explored  by  the 
French,  in  1659.  Its  name  is  derived  from  its  principal  river,  which 
was  called  by  the  Chippewas,  who  dwelt  along  its  head  waters,  Wees- 
kon-san,  which  signifies  "gathering  of  the  waters."  In  1661,  the 
Jesuits  in  Canada  began  to  establish  missions  along  the  south  side  of 
Lake  Superior ;  and  in  1668,  after  the  peace  between  the  French  and 
the  Six  Nations,  a  number  of  new  missions  were  established,  and  the 
country  fully  explored.  Father  Marquette  and  his  companions  passed 
from  the  head  of  Green  Bay  to  an  Indian  village  on  the  upper  part 
of  Fox  River.  Father  Allouez  had  visited  this  village,  but  no 
Frenchman  had  ever  gone  beyond  it. 

"  Being  guided  by  the  friendly  Indians,  Marquette  and  his  compan- 
ions came  to  the  Wisconsin  River,  about  three  leagues  distant,  whose 
waters  flowed  westward.  They  floated  down  the  river  till  the  17th 
of  June,  1673,  when  they  reached  the  Mississippi,  the  great '  Father 
of  Waters/  which  they  entered  with  'a  joy  that  could  not  be  expressed/ 
and  raising  their  sails  to  new  skies,  and  to  unknown  breezes,  floated 
down  this  mighty  river,  between  broad  plains,  garlanded  with  majestic 
forests  and  chequered  with  illimitable  praries  and  island  groves.  They 
descended  about  180  miles,  when  Marquette  and  Joliet  landed,  and 
followed  an  Indian  trail  about  six  miles,  to  a  village.  They  were 
met  by  four  old  men,  bearing  the  pipe  of  peace  and  'brilliant  with 
many  colored  plumes.'  An  aged  chief  received  them  at  his  cabin,  and, 
with  uplifted  hands,  exclaimed  :  '  How  beautiful  is  the  sun,  French- 
men, when  thou  comest  to  visit  us ! — our  whoje  village  awaits  thee — 
in  peace  thou  shalt  enter  all  our  dwellings/  Previous  to  their  depart- 
ure, an  Indian  chief  selected  a  peace  pipe  from  among  his  warriors, 
embellished  with  gorgeous  plumage,  which  he  hung  around  the  neck 


WISCONSIN.  925 

of  Marquette,  '  the  mysterious  arbiter  of  peace  and  war — the  sacred 
calumet — the  white  man's  protection  among  savages/  On  reaching 
their  boats,  the  little  group  proceeded  onward.  '  I  did  not/  says 
Marquette,  '  fear  death  ;  I  should  have  esteemed  it  the  greatest  happi- 
ness to  have  died  for  the  glory  of  God.'  They  passed  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri,  and  the  humble  missionary  resolved  in  his  mind,  one 
day,  to  ascend  its  mighty  current,  and  ascertain  its  source ;  and 
descending  from  thence  toward  the  west,  publish  the  gospel  to  a  peo- 
ple of  whom  he  had  never  heard.  Passing  onward,  they  floated  by 
the  Ohio,  then,  and  for  a  brief  time  after,  called  the  Wabash,  and 
continued  their  explorations  as  far  south  as  the  mouth  of  the  Arkan- 
sas, where  they  were  escorted  to  the  Indian  village  of  Arkansea. 
Being  now  satisfied  that  the  Mississippi  entered  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
west  of  Florida,  and  east  of  California ;  and  having  spoken  to  the 
Indians  of  God  and  the  mysteries  of  the  Catholic  faith,  Marquette 
and  Joliet  prepared  to  ascend  the  stream.  They  returned  by  the  route 
of  the  Illinois  River  to  Green  Bay,  where  they  arrived  in  August. 
Marquette  remained  to  preach  the  gospel  to  the  Miamis,  near  Chicago. 
Joliet,  in  person,  conveyed  the  glad  tidings  of  their  discoveries  to 
Quebec.  They  were  received  with  enthusiastic  delight.  The  bells 
were  rung  during  the  whole  day,  and  all  the  clergy  and  dignitaries  of 
the  place  went  in  procession,  to  the  cathedral,  where  Te  Deum  was 
sung  and  high  mass  celebrated." 

The  country  continued  to  be  occupied  by  French  traders  and  mis- 
sionaries, until  the  treaty  of  1763,  by  which  it  was  surrendered  .to 
Great  Britain.  The  territory  was  governed  by  the. laws  of  Canada 
until  after  the  Revolution.  Great  Britain  parted  with  it  reluctantly, 
and  did  not  withdraw  her  garrison  from  the  post  at  Green  Bay,  until 
1796.  It  was  then  made  a  part  of  the  Northwest  Territory  of  the 
United  States.  In  1809,  it  was  included  in  the  Territory  of  Illinois, 
and  continued  to  form  a  part  of  it  until  1818,  when  Illinois  became  a 
State  of  the  Union.  Then  Wisconsin  was  joined  to  Michigan  for 
purposes  of  government. 

The  principal  events  of  the  Black  Hawk  war  occurred  within  the 
limits  of  the  present  State  of  Wisconsin,  and  the  country  was  thus 
brought  so  conspicuously  before  the  public,  that  its  merits  excited  a 
decided  enthusiasm  dmongst  the  people.  After  the  peace,  many 
emigrants  located  themselves  in  the  southern  part. 

In  1836,  Michigan  was  erected  into  a  State,  and  Wisconsin  was 
organized  as  a  separate  Territory.  In  1841,  a  heavy  emigration  set 


926  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

in,  and  continued  during  1842  and  1843.  In  the  last  year,  the  num- 
ber of  persons  who  settled  in  the  Territory  is  estimated  at  over  60,000. 
The  population  increased  rapidly,  and  on  the  29th  of  May,  1848, 
Wisconsin  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State. 

During  the  rebellion  this  State  contributed  96,118  men  to  the  ser- 
vice of  the  United  States. 

CITIES    AND    TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  the  State  are  . 
Milwaukee,  Green  Bay,  Watertown,  Prariedu  Chien,  Racine,  Kenosha, 
Janesville,  Beloit,  La  Crosse,  and  Fond  du  Lac. 

MADISON, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Dane  county,  on  an  isthmus 
between  Lakes  Mendota  and  Monona,  80  miles  west  of  Milwaukee, 
and  132  miles  northwest  of  Chicago.  Latitude  43°  5'  N.,  longitude 
89°  20'  W. 

The  city  lies  in  the  midst  of  the  "  Four  Lake  Region,"  so  called 
from  a  chain  of  beautiful  lakes  which  extend  over  a  distance  of  16 
miles,  and  discharge  their  surplus  waters  into  Yahara  or  Catfish 
River,  a  tributary  of  Rock  River.  Mendota,  or  Fourth  Lake,  the 
uppermost  and  largest,  is  9  miles  long,  6  miles  wide,  and  from  50  to 
70  feet  deep  in  some  places,  and  is  fed  chiefly  by  springs.  It  has 
beautiful  white  gravelly  shores,  and  pure  cold  water.  Monona,  or 
Third  Lake, is  5J  miles  long,  and  two  miles  wide;  and  lakes  Waubesa 
and  Kegonsa  are  each  about  3  miles  in  length,  by  2  miles  in  width. 
The  isthmus  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  width.  The  city  stands 
in  the  centre  of  a  broad  valley  surrounded  by  heights  from  which  it 
can  be  seen  for  several  miles.  "  Madison  perhaps  combines  and  over- 
looks more  charming  and  diversified  scenery,  to  please  the  eye  of  fancy, 
and  promote  health  and  pleasure,  than  any  other  town  in  the  West ; 
and  in  these  respects  it  surpasses  every  other  State  capital  in  the  Union. 
Its  bright  lakes,  fresh  groves,  rippling  rivulets,  shady  dales,  and  flow- 
ery meadow  lawrns  are  commingled  in  greater  profusion  and  disposed 
in  more  picturesque  order  than  we  have  ever  elsewhere  beheld." 

The  city  is  handsomely  built,  with  broad,  well-shaded,  and  paved 
streets  dropping  down  to  the  shores  of  its  pretty  lakes.  It  contains 
many  handsome  public  buildings,  commercial  edifices,  and  private 
dwellings.  The  Capitol  is  the  pincipal  edifice.  It  stands  in  the  centre 
of  the  city,  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  park  of  14  acres,  and  is  70  feet 


WISCONSIN. 


92T 


MADISON. 

above  the  level  of  the  lakes.  It  is  built  of  native  limestone,  and  is  an 
imposing  structure.  Its  original  cost  was  $500,000.  The  Court 
House  is  a  tasteful  building. 

The  public  schools  of  the  city  are  among  the  best  in  the  State,  and 
are  in  a  flourishing  condition.  They  consist  of  a  high  school,  and  a 
grammar  school  for  each  ward.  Besides  these  are  several  private 
schools.  The  State  University  stands  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  in  a 
grove  of  40  acres,  and  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the  lakes.  It  has 
an  annual  income  of  over  $30,000.  It  possesses  a  fine  library.  The 
Historical  Society  is  a  flourishing  institution,  with  a  good  library  and 
collection  of  relics,  etc.  The  libraries  of  the  city,  including  that  of  the 
State,  number  over  30,000  volumes.  The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is 
located  here. 

The  city  contains  about  14  churches,  and  6  newspaper  offices.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas  and  supplied  with  pure  water.  It  is  governed  by  a 
Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  9176. 

Madison  is  supplied  with  excellent  water-power,  and  is  to  a  limited 
extent  engaged  in  manufactures.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade, 
and  since  the  completion  of  the  railways  connecting  it  with  the  other 
parts  of  the  State,  has  grown  in  every  respect  with  marked  rapidity. 
It  is  much  frequented  by  pleasure  seekers  as  a  place  of  summer  resort, 
and  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  Union. 


928  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

In  1836,  Madison  was  selected  as  the  seat  of  the  State  Government. 
At  this  time  but  a  solitary  log  cabiu,  marked  the  site.  For  several 
years  its  growth  was  slow,  but  the  completion  of  the  railways  from  the 
southward  gave  it  an  impetus  which  set  it  fairly  on  the  way  to  its 
present  prosperity. 

MILWAUKEE, 

The  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Milwaukee  River,  75  miles  east  of  Madison,  and  90  miles  north  of 
Chicago.  "  The  river  approaches  from  the  north  in  a  direction  nearly 
parallel  with  the  lake  shore,  and  is  joined  about  half  a  mile  from  its 
mouth  by  the  Menomonee  River,  which  comes  from  the  west.  The 
largest  boats  of  the  lakes  can  ascend  the  river  two  miles  from  its 
mouth,  as  also  the  Menomonee  for  some  distance  above  its  confluence 
with  the  Milwaukee.  About  $100,000  have  been  expended  for  the 
improvement  of  the  harbor  in  addition  to  the  appropriation  by  Con- 
gress for  that  purpose,  so  that  now  the  city  has  one  of  the  best  harbors 
upon  the  whole  chain  of  lakes." 

The  city  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  is  built  partly  upon  the 
river  flats  and  partly  upon  the  bluffs  which  overlook  the  lake.  These 
latter  are  from  20  to  100  feet  high,  and  are  nearly  perpendicular. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  wide,  straight,  well-paved  streets. 
It  is  one  of  the  best  built  cities  in  the  west,  and  is  noted  for  its  pe- 
culiar appearance.  A  large  portion  of  its  buildings  are  of  brick  made 
in  the  vicinity.  These  bricks  are  of  a  light  straw  color  and  are  very 
hard  and  smooth.  They  give  to  the  city  a  light  and  pleasing  appear- 
ance which  has  earned  it  the  name  of  the  "  Cream  City  "  of  the  lakes. 
The  "  Milwaukee  brick  "  is  now  very  popular  in  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, and  large  quantities  of  it  are  shipped  annually,  even  as  far  east 
as  New  York  and  Boston.  Many  of  the  residences  are  elegant  and 
tasteful,  and  the  business  portions  contain  some  splendid  warehouses. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  Custom  House  and  Court 
House.  The  former  is  a  fine  structure  of  Athens  stone. 

There  are  about  13  public  schools,  a  female  college,  and  several 
private  schools  in  the  city.  Also  about  43  or  44  churches,  5  daily 
and  7  weekly  newspapers,  and  3  hotels  and  a  public  library. 

The  Benevolent  and  Charitable  institutions  include  3  orphan  asy- 
lums, 2  hospitals,  and  several  associations  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  and 
afflicted. 


WISCONSIN. 


929 


RIVER   VIEW   IN   MILWAUKEE. 


The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water.  Street 
rail\Ajiys  connect  the  distant  pointy.  There  are  also  an  efficient  police 
force,  a  fire  alarm  telegraph,  and  a  steam  fire  department.  The  city 
government  consists  of  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  popula- 
tion was  71,499.  Nearly  one-half  of  the  inhabitants  are  Germans  or 
of  German  parentage,  and  .the  city  is  in  many  respects  as  much  Ger- 
man as  American  in  its  characteristics.  The  annual  product  of  lager 
beer  is  nearly  3,000,000  gallons. 

Six  railways  connect  Milwaukee  with  all  parts  of  the  countrv,  and 
steamers  ply  between  it  and  the  other  lake  ports.  It  is  the  shipping 
point  and  outlet  of  ono  of  the  richest  grain  producing  countries  in  the 
world,  and  is  the  greatest  primary  wheat  market  in  the  world.  In 
1862,  its  receipts  of  wheat,  and  flour  reduced  to  wheat,  amounted  to 
18,000,000  bushels.  In  1865,  13,250,000  bushels  were  exported.  It 
is  provided  with  ample  storage  accommodations  for  grain,  and  its 
elevators  are  among  the  curiosities  of  the  place.  That  of  the  Mil- 
waukee and  St.  Paul  Railway  will  hold  1,500,000  bushels.  There 
is  direct  communication  with  Detroit  during  the  whole  year,  steamers 
plying  regularly  between  Milwaukee  and  Grand  Haven  in  connection 
with  the  Milwaukee  and  Detroit  Railway.  Great  quantities  of  lumber 
ure  annually  exported. 
59 


930  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Milwaukee  River  has  been  dammed,  and  affords  fine  water- 
power,  which  is  used  by  the  rapidly  growing  manufactories  of  the  city. 
Flour,  iron,  and  ironware,  machinery,  and  beer,  are  the  principal 
products.  One  of  the  largest  rolling  mills  in  the  West  is  located 
her"e. 

Milwaukee  derives  its  name  from  an  Indian  word  Me-ne-aw-kee, 
said  to  signify  rich  or  beautiful  land.  In  1785,  a  trading  post  was 
established  here  by  Alexander  Laframboise,  from  Mackinaw,  but  the 
town  was  not  settled  until  1835.  At  first  its  growth  was  not  only 
slow,  but  was  hampered  by  the  obstacles  so  common  to  western  land 
speculations  in  those  days.  From  about  the  year  1841,  however,  the 
improvement  of  Milwaukee  has  been  rapid.  In  1846,  it  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city.  In  1840,  the  population  was  1751 ;  in  1850,  20,035 ; 
in  1860,  45,254;  in  1870,  71,499. 

RACINE, 

A  leading  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Root 
River,  75  miles  east-southeast  of  Madison,  25  miles  south-by-east  of 
Milwaukee,  and  62  miles  north  of  Chicago.  The  city  is  built  on  level 
ground,  elevated  about  40  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  lake,  andtis  re- 
gularly laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks  with  wide  streets.  It  is  an  at- 
tractive and  well-built  city,  and  contains  several  fine  public  buildings. 
Many  of  the  private  residences  are  handsome. 

The  public  schools,  6  in  number,  are  &mong  the  best  in  the  State, 
and  there  are  also  several  private  schools.  Racine  College,  conducted 
by  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church,  is  a  flourishing  institution.  The 
city  obtains  about  16  churches,  and  4  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted 
with  gas  and  supplied  with  water.  The  city  government  consists  of  a 
Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  9880. 

Racine  possesses  one  of  the  best  harbors  on  Lake  Michigan,  which 
is  here  70  miles  wide.  Vessels  drawing  over  12  feet  of  water  can 
enter.  The  lake  trade  is  large  and  is  increasing.  Vast  quantities  of 
grain  and  lumber  are  shipped  by  way  of  the  lake.  There  is  railway 
communication  with  the  principal  towns  of  the  State  and  with  Chicago. 
The  Racine  and  Mississippi  Railway  connects  the  city  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi River  at  Savanna,  Illinois. 

The  city  is  to  a  limited  extent  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  this 
branch  of  its  industry  is  growing  with  rapidity.  Steam  engines, 
boilers,  agricultural  implements,  flour,  and  leather,  are  produced  in 


WISCONSIN.  931 

considerable  quantities.  In  spite  of  its  formidable  rivals,  Chicago  and 
Milwaukee,  Racine  is  increasing  in  size  and  wealth  at  a  most  en- 
couraging rate.  It  was  first  settled  in  1835,  and,  in  1848,  was  incor- 
porated as  a  city. 

FOND  DU  LAC, 

In  Fond  du  Lac  county,  is  an  important  place.  It  is  situated 
at  the  southern  end  of  Winnebago  Lake,  the  largest  of  the  inland 
lakes  of  the  State.  It  is  90  miles  northeast  of  Madison,  and  72  miles 
north-northwest  of  Milwaukee.  _ 

The  city  is  pleasantly  situated  on  ground  which  gradually  rises  as 
it  recedes  from  the  lake,  and  the  streets  and  yards  of  the  dwellings  are 
so  well  supplied  with  shade  trees  and  shrubbery  that  the  place  seems 
to  lie  in  a  bower  of  green  foliage.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  well 
built.  "  The  site,"  says  a  visitor,  "is  part  prairie  and  part  woodland, 
a  river  dividing  it.  Twelve  years  ago  it  had  but  one  chimney,  and  the 
pockets  of  most  of  its  earlier  settlers  were  as  deficient  in  means  as  the 
houses  of  this  most  necessary  appurtenance;  now  it  has  a  population  of 
thousands,  churches  of  various  kinds,  some  fine  stores,  and  one 
especially  fine  block,  containing  a  hall  which  is  said  to  be  the  hand- 
somest in  the  West,  and  capable  of  accommodating  3000  people. 
The  hall  has  a  centre  dome  of  stained  glass,  and  the  effect  is  very 
pleasing.  From  the  top  of  the  building  an  incomparable  view  is  to 
be  had  of  the  city,  lake,  prairie,  river,  and  woods.  The  foreign  element 
here  is  German,  and  an  intelligent  class  of  people,  obedient  to  law, 
and  comprehending  the  opportunities  a  free  country  offers  to  them  and 
their  children.  The  people  look  healthy  and  happy,  and  there  is  an 
appearance  of  comfort  and  thrift  about  them  and  their  dwellings. 
There  are  no  showy  houses,  but  neat,  well-arranged  buildings,  with 
yards,  in  which  stand  the  forest  trees  found  there,  and  enlivened  by 
flowers  and  shrubs.  The  settlers  have  shown  a  taste  and  respect  for 
the  forest  trees,  leaving  them  unmolested,  and  clumps  of  oaks  and 
hickories  in  the  cultivated  fields  are  pleasant  to  look  upon,  and  their 
shade  must  delight  the  cattle  in  summer.  The  beauty  of  this  country 
is  indescribable,  the  whole  having  the  appearance  of  a  well-cared -for 
park." 

The  city  contains  about  1 2  churches,  3  public  schools,  and  1  daily 
and  3  weekly  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  Js  sup- 
plied with  an  abundance  of  pure  water  by  means  of  artesian  wells, 
which  are  so-  numerous  here  that  almost  every  dwelling  has  one. 


932  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

These  wells  vary  in  depth,  from  90  to  130  feet.  It  is  governed  by  a 
Mayor  and  Council.  The  population  in  1870  was  12,764. 

Lake  Winnebago,  on  which  the  city  is  situated,  is  a  beautiful  sheet 
of  water,  30  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide,  and  is  the  channel  of  an 
extensive  trade,  being  one  of  the  chain  of  navigable  waters  which 
connect  Lake  Michigan  with  the  Mississippi  by  means  of  the  Wisconsin 
River.  It  empties  it  waters  into  Green  Bay,  through  the  Fox  River, 
which  has  been  rendered  navigable  for  steamers.  A  canal  has  been  cut, 
from  the  Fox  River  to  the  Wisconsin,  and  steamers  pass  from  Green 
Bay  in|o  the  latter  river,  A  very  large  trade  in  lumber  and  grain  is 
thus  brought  to  Fond  du  Lac.  There  are  about  6  grain  elevators  in 
the  city,  and  about  16  or  17  saw-mills.  Railways  connect  the  city 
with  the  principal  points  in  the  West. 

There  are  a  number  of  factories  of  agricultural  implements,  soap, 
and  flour  here,  besides  a  large  shop  for  the  construction  of  railway  cars. 

Fond  du  Lac  was  originally  a  French  trading-post,  but  the  settle- 
ment of  the  city  was  not  begun  until  about  1835.  Since  then  it  has 
grown  with  great  rapidity. 

OSHKOSH, 

In  Winnebago  county,  is  a  rapidly  growing  city.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Fox  River,  at  its  entrance  into  Lake 
Winnebago.  It  is  built  on  ground  gradually  sloping  towards  the 
lake  and  river,  thus  securing  excellent  drainage  for  the  whole  city. 
Immediately  above  the  town  the  Fox  River  broadens  out  into  the 
Lake  Butte  des  Mortes. 

Oshkosh  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  built  principally  of  wood. 
The  County  Court  House  and  Jail,  a  handsome  edifice,  is  the  principal 
building.  There  are  about  12  churches,  several  public  and  private 
schools,  and  3  newspapers  in  the  city.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and 
is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was 
12,663. 

The  city  is  largely  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  lumber,  there 
being  about  17  saw-mills,  cutting  about  50,000,000  feet  of  lumber 
annually,  besides  laths  and  pickets.  There  are  also  6  shingle  mills, 
which  cut  6,500,000  shingles  per  annum,  and  several  planing  mills, 
and  sash  and  door,  and  fence  factories.  The  city  also  contains  several 
fonnderies,  machine  shops,  agricultural  machine  shops,  flouring  mills, 
tanneries,  and  breweries.  A  considerable  quantity  of  grain  is  sent 
here  for  shipment.  A  ship-yard  is  located  here  for  the  construction 


WISCONSIN.  933 

of  barges  and  steamers  for  the  Mississippi  trade.  '  Several  boats  built 
here  were  plying  on  that  river  and  its  tributaries  previous  to  the  war. 
Steamers  from  Pittsburg,  Pennsylvania,  have  discharged  cargo  here. 
Railways  connect  the  city  with  the  principal  towns  of  the  State. 

Just  above  Oshkosh  lie  the  vast  timber  regions  of  Wisconsin,  which 
are  reached  by  ascending  the  Wolf  River,  which  is  navigable  for 
small  steamers  for  100  miles  from  the  city.  Owing  to  the  proximity 
of  so  much  water,  the  heats  of  the  summer  is  much  moderated  at  Osh- 
kosh, and  the  place  has  become  one  of  the  most  popular  summer 
resorts  in  the  State. 

MISCELLANY. 

THE    OLDEST    MAN    IN    THE    WORLD. 

Joseph  Crele  died  in  Caledonia,  a  little  town  in  Wisconsin,  on  the  27th  of 
January,  1866.  He  was  probably  the  oldest  man  in  the  world,  being,  at  the  time 
of  his  death,  141  years  of  age.  He  was  born  of  French  parents,  in  1725,  at  a 
French  trading-post,  which  has  since  grown  into  the  present  city  of  Detroit. 
The  baptismal  register  of  the  Catholic  Church  in  that  city  settles  this  fact  posi- 
tively. He  lived  in  Wisconsin  for  about  100  years.  He  was  at  one  time  a  French 
soldier,  and  bore  arms  at  Braddock's  defeat.  He  married  in  New  Orleans  in 
1754,  when  nearly  30.  A  few  years  after  his  marriage,  he  settled  at  Prairie  du 
Chien,  while  Wisconsin  was  still  a  province  of  France.  Before  the  Revolution- 
ary war,  he  was  employed  to  carry  letters  between  Prairie  du  Chien  and  Green 
Bay.  A  few  years  ago,  he  was  called  as  a  witness  in  the  Circuit  Court  of  Wis- 
consin, to  give  testimony  relating  to  events  that  had  -transpired  80  years  before. 
For  some  years  before  his  death,  the  old  gentleman  resided  with  a  daughter  by 
his  third  wife  at  Caledonia.  He  was  69  when  this  child  was  born.  Until  1864, 
Mr.  Crele  was  as  hearty  and  active  as  most  men  of  70.  He  could  walk  several 
miles  without  fatigue,  and  frequently  chopped  wood  for  the  family  use. 

He  cast  his  first  vote  for  Washington,  and  after  that  never  failed  to  vote  at 
every  election.  He  had  no  bad  habits,  except  that  he  was  a  constant  smoker. 
In  person,  he  was  rather  above  the  medium  height,  spare  in  flesh,  but  showing 
evidences  of  having  been  in  his  prime — 100  years  ago — a  man  of  powerful 
physical  organization.  During  the  last  few  years  of  his  life,  he  experienced  a 
haunting  sense  of  loneliness,  and  would  frequently  exclaim  with  sadness  that  lie 
feared  Death  had  forgotten  him. 


MINNESOTA. 

Area, 83,531  Square  Mli'es. 

Population  in  1860, 172,413 

Population  in  1870, 439,706 

THE  State  of  Minnesota  is  situated  between  43°  30'  and  49°  N. 
latitude,  and  between  89°  30'  and  97°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  British  America,  on  the  east  by  Lake  Superior  and 
Wisconsin,  on  the  south  by  Iowa,  and  on  the  west  by  Dakota 
Territory. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  State  Government  has  recently  published  an  excellent  descrip- 
tion of  Minnesota,  prepared  by  Col.  Girart  Hewitt,  of  St.  Paul.  We 
take  the  following  from  it : 

"Although  Minnesota  is  not  a  mountainous  country  by  any  means, 
its  general  elevation  gives  it  all  the  advantages  of  one,  without  its 
objectionable  features.  Being  equidistant  from  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  oceans,  situated  on  an  elevated  plateau,  and  with  a  system  of 
lakes  and  rivers  ample  for  an  empire,  it  has  a  peculiar  climate  of  its 
.JDwn,  possessed  by  no  other  State.  The  general  surface  of  the  greater 
part  of  the  State  is  even  and  undulating,  and  pleasantly  diversified 
with  rolling  prairies,  vast  belts  of  timber,  oak  openings,  numerous 
lakes  and  streams,  with  their  accompanying  meadows,  waterfalls, 
wooded  ravines,  and  lofty  bluffs,  which  impart  variety,  grandeur  and 
picturesque  beauty  to  its  scenery. 

"  The  Mississippi  River,  2400  miles  long,  which  drains  a  larger 
region  of  country  than  any  stream  on  the  globe,  with  the  exception  of 
934 


MINNESOTA. 


FALLS   OF   ST   AXTHONY. 


the  Amazon,  rises  in  Lake  Itasca,  in  the  northern  part  of  Minnesota, 
and  flows  southeasterly  through  the  State  797  miles,  134  of  which 
forms  its  eastern  boundary.  It  is  navigable  for  large  boats  to  St. 
Paul,  and  above  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  for  smaller  boats  for  about 
1 50  miles  farther.  The  season  of  navigation  has  opened  as  early  as 
the  25th  of  March,  but  usually  opens  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of 
April,  and  closes  between  the  middle  of  November  and  the  first  of 
December.  In  1865  and  1866,  steamboat  excursions  took -place  on 
the  first  of  December,  from  St.  Paul,  and  the  river  remained  open 
several  days  longer;  in  1867  until  December  1st.  The  principal 
towns  and  cities  on  the  Mississippi  in  Minnesota,  are,  Winona,  Wa- 
bashaw,  Lake  City,  Red  Wing,  Hastings,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  St. 
Anthony,  Anoka,  Dayton,  Monticello,  St.  Cloud,  Sank  Rapids,  Little 
Falls,  Watab.  The  Minnesota  River,  the  source  of  which  is  among 
the  Coteau  des  Prairies,  in  Dakota  Territory,  flows  from  Big  Stone 
Lake,  on  the  western  boundary  of  the  State,  a  distance  of  nearly  50Q 
miles,  through  the  heart  of  the  southwestern  part  of  the  State,  and 
empties  into  the  Mississippi  at  Fort  Snelling,  5  miles  above  St.  Paul. 


936  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

It  is  navigable  as  high  up  as  the  Yellow  Medicine,  238  miles  above 
its  mouth  during  good  stages  of  water.  Its  principal  places  are 
Shakopee,  Chaska,  Carver,  Belle  Plaine,  Henderson,  Le  Sueur,  Tra- 
verse des  Sioux,  St.  Peter,  Mankato,  and  New  Ulm.  The  St.  Croix 
River,  rising  in  Wisconsin,  near  Lake  Superior,  forms  about  130  miles 
of  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State.  It  empties  into  the  Mississippi 
nearly  opposite  Hastings,  and  is  navigable  to  Taylor's  Fall,  about  50 
miles.  It  penetrates  the  pineries,  and  furnishes  immense  water-power 
along  its  course.  The  principal  places  on  it  are  Still  water  and  Taylor's 
Falls.  The  Red  River  rises  in  Lake  Traverse,  and  flows  northward, 
forming  the  western  boundary  of  the  State  from  Big  Stone  Lake  to 
the  British  possessions,  a  distance  of  380  miles.  It  is  navigable  from 
Breckenridge,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bois  de  Sioux  River,  to  Hudson's 
Bay;'  the  Saskatchewan,  a  tributary  of  the  Red  River,  is  also  said  to 
be  a  navigable  stream,  thus  promising  an  active  commercial  trade 
from  this  vast  region  when  it  shall  have  become  settled  up,  via  the 
St.  raul  and  Pacific  Railroad,  which  connects  the  navigable  waters  of 
the  Red  River  with  those  of  the  Mississippi.  Among  the  more 
important  of  the  numerous  small  streams  are  Rum  River,  valuable 
for  lumbering ;  Vermilion  River,  furnishing  extensive  water-power, 
and  possessing  some  of  the  finest  cascades  in  the  United  States ;  the 
Crow,  Blue  Earth  Root,  Sank,  Le  Sueur,  Zumbro,  Cotton  wood,  Long 
Prairie,  Red  Wood,  "VVaraju,  Pejuta  Ziza,  Mauja,  Wakau,  Buffalo, 
Wild  Rice,  Plum,  Sand  Hill,  Clear  Water,  Red  Lake,  Thief  Black, 
Red  Cedar,  and  Des  Moines  rivers;  the  St.  Louis  River,  a  large  stream 
flowing  into  Lake  Superior,  navigable  for  20  miles  from  its  lake  out- 
let, and  furnishing  a  water-power  at  its  falls  said  to  be  equal  to  that 
of  the  Falls  of  the  Mississippi  at  St.  Anthony,  and  many  others, 
besides  all  the  innumerable  hosts  of  first  and  secondary  tributaries  to 
all  the  larger  streams." 

Lake  Superior  washes  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State  for  a  dis- 
tance of  167  miles,  and  has  several  fine  harbors.  Minnesota  is  thickly 
studded  with  small  lakes,  which  abound  in  fish  and  game,  and  give  a 
rich  beauty  to  the  landscape.  Professor  Maury  says  that  Minnesota 
is  the  best  watered  State  in  the  Union,  although  one  of  the  farthest 
from  the  sea,  owing  its  abundant  summer  rains  to  the  presence  of 
these  lakes. 

MINERALS. 

Iron  is  abundant  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior.  Copper  is 
found  in  small  quantities,  Coal  and  red  pipe-clay  are  the  other  mine- 


MINNESOTA.  937 

rals.     Gold  quartz  has  been  found  in  Carl  ton  county,  and  gold  and 
silver  about  80  miles  northwest  of  Lake  Superior. 

CLIMATE. 

Minnesota  has  been  so  strongly  recommended  as  a  resort  for  inva- 
lids, that  the  following  remarks  upon  the  climate,  taken  from  the  work 
of  Colonel  Hewitt,  will  be  found  interesting. 

"  The  assertion  that  the  climate  of  Minnesota  is  one  of  the  healthiest 
in  the  world,  may  be  broadly  and  confidently  made.  It  is  sustained 
by  the  almost  unanimous  testimony  of  thousands  of  invalids  who  have 
sought  its  pure  and  bracing  air,  and  recovered  from  consumption  and 
other  diseases  after  they  had  been  given  up  as  hopeless  by  their  home 
physicians ;  it  is  sustained  by  the  experience  of  its  inhabitants  for 
twenty  years  ;  and  it  is  sustained  by  the  published  statistics  of  mortality 
in  the  different  States.  Minnesota  is  entirely  exempt  from  malaria, 
and  consequently  the  numerous  diseases  known  to  arise  from  it,  such 
as  chills  and  fever,  autumnal  fevers,  ague  cake  or  enlarged  spleen,  en- 
largement of  the  liver,  etc.,  dropsy,  diseases  of  the  kidneys,  affections 
of  the  eye,  and  various  bilious  diseases,  and  derangements  of  the 
stomach  and  bowels,  although  sometimes  arising  from  other  causes, 
are  often  due  wholly  to  malarious  agency,  and  are  only  temporarily 
relieved  by  medicine,  because  the  patient  is  constantly  exposed  to  the 
malarious  influence  which  generates  them.  Enlargement  of  the  liver 
s.nd  spleen  is  very  common  in  southern  and  southwestern  States. 
AVe  are  not  only  free  from  those  ailments,  but  by  coming  to  Minne- 
sota, often  without  any  medical  treatment  at  all,  patients  speedily 
recover  from  this  class  of  diseases ;  the  miasmatic  poison  being  soon 
eliminated  from  the  system,  and  not  being  exposed  to  its  further 
inception,  the  functions  of  health  are  gradually  resumed.  Diarrhea 
and  dysentery  are  not  so  prevalent  as  in  warmer  latitudes,  and  are 
of  a  milder  type.  Pneumonia  and  typhoid  fever  are  very  seldom  met 
with,  and  then  merely  as  sporadic  cases.  Diseases  of  an  epidemic 
character  never  have  been  known  to  prevail  here.  'Even  that  dread- 
ful scourge,  diphtheria,  which,  like  a  destroying  angel,  swept  through 
portions  of  the  country,  leaving  desolation  in  its  train,  passed  us  by 
with  scarce  a  grave  to  mark  its  course.  The  diseases  common  to 
infancy  and  childhood  partake  of  the  same  mild  character,  and  seldom 
prove  fatal/  This  is  the  language  of  Mrs.  Colburn,  an  authoress, 
and  the  experience  of  physicians  corroborates  this  opinion.  That 
dreadful  scourge  of  the  human  family,  the  cholera,  is  alike  unknown 


933  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

here.  During  the  summer  of  1866,  while  hundreds  were  daily  cut 
down  by  this  visitation  in  New  York,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  and  other 
places,  and  it  prevailed  to  an  alarming  extent  in  Chicago,  not  a  single 
case  made  its  appearance  in  Minnesota.  Another,  and  a  very  large 
class  of  invalids,  who  derive  great  benefit  from  the  climate  of  Minne- 
sota, are  those  whose  systems  have  become  relaxed,  debilitated,  and 
broken  down  by  over-taxation  of  the  mental  and  physical  energies, 
dyspepsia,  etc." 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTS. 

"  The  prevailing  soil  of  Minnesota,"  says  the  work  quoted  above, 
"  is  a  dark,  calcareous,  sandy  loam,  containing  a  various  intermixture 
of  clay,  abounding  in  mineral  salts  and  in  organic  ingredients,  derived 
from  the  accumulation  of  decomposed  vegetable  matter  for  long  ages 
of  growth  and  decay.  The  sand,  of  which  silica  is  the  base,  forms  a 
large  proportion  of  this,  as  of  all  good  soils.  It  plays  an  important 
part  in  the  economy  of  growth,  and  is  an  essential  constituent  in  the 
organism  of  all  cereals.  About  67  per  cent,  of  the  ash  of  the  stems 
of  wheat,  corn,  rye,  barley,  oats  and  sugar-cane,  is  pure  silica  or  flint. 
It  is  this  which  gives  the  glazed  coating  to  the  plants,  and  gives 
strength  to  the  stalk." 

In  1869,  the  agricultural  returns  were  as  follows : 

Acres  of  improved  land, 1,611,594 

Bushels  of  wheat, 17,271,968 

oats, 10,762,209 

Indian  corn, 4,236,822 

barley,  1,256,686 

buckwheat, 51,684 

rye, •.  •  75,866 

Irish  potatoes, 1,633,483 

apples, 9,932 

Tons  of  hay,  (cultivated)    ...         ....  73,694 

(wild) 543,758 

Pounds  of  butter, 6,593,528 

"  wool, 385,766 

Number  of  horses, 45,780 

milch  cows, 60,740 

"  mules  and  asses, 578 

sheep, 27,890 

swine, 150,880 

cattle, ,98,479 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $6,642,841 


MINNESOTA.  939 

MANUFACTURES  AND  COMMERCE. 

Manufactures  are  still  in  their  infancy.  Saw  mills  at  present  con- 
stitute the  majority  of  the  establishments  of  the  State. 

The  State  has  no  foreign  commerce,  but  its  trade  with  the  country 
south  and  southeast  of  it  is  growing  rapidly.  The  great  export  is 
lumber,  which,  in  1860,  was  valued  at  $1,234,203.  St.  Paul  main- 
tains an  active  trade  along  the  upper  Mississippi. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

Early  in  1872,  there  were  1612  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Min- 
nesota, constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  $60,000,000.  St.  Paul,  and  the 
principal  towns  in  the  southeast  part  of  the  State,  are  connected  with 
each  other,  and  with  Chicago  and  St.  Louis,  through  Wisconsin  and 
Illinois.  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  is  being  constructed  across 
the  northern  part  of  the  State  from  Lake  Superior  westward. 

EDUCATION. 

Minnesota  possesses  a  State  university  and  three  normal  schools,  all 
of  which  are  in  flourishing  condition.  The  first  is  liberally  endowed 
by  the  State.  The  Governor,  in  his  last  annual  message,  says : 
"  Minnesota  has  a  larger  number  of  school-houses  than  any  other 
State  of  the  same  population  and  taxable  property.  Her  total  expen- 
ditures for  school  purposes  during  the  last  two  years  exceeded 
$A,500,000,  and  her  school-houses  have  already  cost  over  $100,000." 
The  State  has  a  permanent  school  fund  arising  from  the  sales  of  public 
lands,  and  amounting  to  $2,476,222.  There  are  lands  enough  on 
hand,  if  judiciously  disposed  of,  to  increase  this  fund  to  $15,000,000. 
Taxes  are  levied  for  the  support  of  the  schools. 

The  system  of  education  is  under  the  supervision  of  the  Superin- 
tendent of  Public  Instruction,  who  is  elected  by  the  people  for  two 
years,  and  reports  annually  to  the  Legislature.  The  first  superinten- 
dent was  elected  in  1867,  the  duties  of  the  office  having  been  pre- 
viously discharged  by  the  Secretary  of  State.  Each  county  is  provided 
with  a  County  Superintendent,  but  the  immediate  management  of  each 
school  is  vested  in  a  Board  of  Trustees. 

In  1870,  the  number  of  school  districts  was  2626  ;  the  number  of 


940  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

teachers   4111;   and  the   number  of  pupils    110,590.      The   whole 
amount  expended  for  school  purposes  was  $857,816. 

In  1870  there  were  50  private  schools  in  the  State,  attended  by 
4316  pupils. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Prison  is  at  Stillwater.  It  is  in  excellent  condition,  and 
in  November,  1867,  contained  45  convicts.  A  Reform  School  has 
recently  been  opened  by  the  State  at  St.  Paul.  In  1870,  it  contained 
82  inmates.  The  charitable  institutions  of  Minnesota  have  been  but 
recently  established,  but  are  prosperous  and  of  a  high  character.  The 
State  authorities  are  determined  that  they  shall  be  second  to  none  in 
the  Union. 

The  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and  the  Blind,  is  located  at 
Faribault.  It  is  provided  with  fine  buildings,  and  ample  grounds, 
and  contains  about  87  deaf  mutes  and  blind  persons. 

The  Hospital  for  Insane  is  at  St.  Peter.  Patients  are  now  accom- 
modated in  temporary  quarters;  but  handsome  and  commodious 
buildings  are  being  erected  by  the  State.  In  1870,  there  were  100 
patients  under  treatment. 

LIBRARIES    AND    NEWSPAPERS. 

In  1870,  there  were  1412  libraries  in  Minnesota,  containing  360,- 
810  volumes ;  and  in  the  same  year,  there  were  6  daily,  and  89  other 
newspapers,  with  an  aggregate  annual  circulation  of  9,543,656  copies, 
published  in  the  State. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  582  churches  in  Minnesota.  The  value  of 
'church  property  was  $2,401,750. 

FINANCES. 

The  Constitution  of  Minnesota  limits  the  loans  of  the  State  to 
$350,000.  At  the  close  of  1870,  the  State  debt  was  about  $285,503. 
The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  that  year  were  $732,069,  and  the 
expenditures  $595,905. 

In  1868,  there  were  15  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $1,710,- 
000,  doing  business  in  the  State. 


MINNESOTA.  941 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  Constitution  of  this  State  was  adopted  in  1856,  and  grants  the 
right  to  vote  at  the  elections  to  all  male  persons  over  21  years  of  age, 
who  are  of  the  following  classes,  viz.  :  citizens  of  the  United  States ; 
foreigners  who  have  legally  declared  their  intention  to  become  citi- 
zens ;  civilized  persons  of  mixed  white  and  Indian  blood  ;  and  Indians 
not  belonging  to  any  tribe,  who  have  been  pronounced  capable  of 
voting  by  any  District  Court.  The  last  named  class  must  have 
adopted  the  language,  customs,  and  habits  of  the  whites,  and  must 
have  resided  in  the  United  States  one  year,  in  the  State  four  months, 
and  in  the  district  ten  days  preceding  the  election. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Auditor,  Treasurer,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a 
Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives,  all 
chosen  by  the  people.  The  Senators,  22  in  number,  are  elected  for 
two  years,  one  half  annually.  The  Representatives  number  47,  and 
are  elected  annually.  The  Auditor  is  chosen  for  three  years,  the  rest 
of  the  State  officers  for  two  years.  The  general  election  is  held  in 
November,  and  the  Legislature  meets  annually,  on  the  Tuesday  after 
the  first  Monday  in  January. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court  (elected  for  seVen 
years),  District  Courts,  Courts  of  Probate,  and  in  Justices  of  the  Peace. 
The  Legislature  has  power  to  establish  from  time  to  time  such  other 
Courts,  inferior  to  the  Supreme  Court,  as  may  be  found  necessary. 
The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and  two  Associates. 
All  judges  are  elected  by  the  people. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  St.  Paul. 

The  State  is  divided  into  64  counties. 

HISTORY. 

The  State  of  Minnesota  derives  its  name  from  an  Indian  word 
signifying  "  sky-tinted  water."  It  was  first  entered  by  a  Frenchman 
named  Daniel  Greysolou  du  Luth,  in  1678.  In  1679  Father  Hen- 
nepin,  and  two  others  who  had  formed  a  part  of  La  Salle's  expedi- 
tion, accompanied  the  Indians  to  their  village,  180  miles  above  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  borne  by  the 
cataract  to-day.  In  1689  the  territory  was  formally  taken  possession 
of  in  the  name  of  the  French  king  by  Perrot  and  his  companions. 
They  built  a  fort  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Pepin,  just  above  its 


942  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

entrance.  In  1695  a  second  fort  was  built  by  Le  Sueur,  on  an  inland 
in  the  Mississippi,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix.  In  1700 
he  built  a  fort  on  the  Minnesota.  The  fur  traders  now  came  into  the 
territory  in  great  numbers,  but  no  permanent  settlement  was  made  for 
purposes  of  colonization.  In  1763  Captain  Jonathan  Carver,  of  Con- 
necticut, visited  Minnesota,  and  published  a  description  of  the  country. 

In  1800  that  part  of  the  present  State  of  Minnesota  lying  east  of 
the  Mississippi  River  was  included  in  the  Territory  of  Indiana.  In 
1803  the  purchase  of  Louisiana  placed  the  United  States  in  possession 
of  the  lands  west  of  the  Mississippi.  Fort  Snelling  was  erected  in 
1819,  and  garrisoned  by  the  United  States.  The  territory  was  already 
the  seat  of  an  active  trade  with  the  Indians,  and  the  Government  had 
some  trouble  in  enforcing  its  regulations  among  the  traders.  Minne- 
sota was  explored  in  1820  by  General  Lewis  Cass,  and  in  1823  by 
Major  Long.  A  third  exploring  party  was  sent  out  in  1832  under 
Henry  R.  Schoolcraft,  who  discovered  the  source  of  the  Mississippi 
River.  Frequent  surveys  and  explorations  were  made  after  this,  until 
the  region  became  very  well  known. 

In  1842  the  town  of  St.  Paul  was  founded,  and  emigrants  com- 
menced to  settle  in  the  territory.  In  1849  the  Territory  of  Minnesota 
was  organized  by  Congress.  The  population  was  estimated  at  4857 
souls,  and  one  half  of  the  lands  included  in  the  new  Territory  were 
still  the  property  of  the  Indians.  Emigrants  came  in  fast,  however, 
and  in  1857  the  population  was  ascertained  by  a  census  to  be  150,037. 
In  1856  Congress  authorized  the  people  of  the  Territory  to  form  a 
State  Constitution,  which  was  done,  and  on  the  llth  of  May,  1858, 
Minnesota  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  sovereign  State. 

During  the  late  war,  the  State  contributed  a  force  of  24,263  men 
to  the  service  of  the  United  States. 

CITIES   AND   TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  there  is  no  large  city  in  the  State.  The  most 
important  places  are,  Minneapolis,  St.  Anthony,  Winona,  Rochester, 
Austin,  Faribault,  and  Henderson. 

ST.  PAUL, 

In  Ramsey  county,  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  2070  miles  from  its  mouth,  9  miles 
by  land  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  400  miles  northwest  of 
Chicago.  Latitude  44°  52'  46"  N. ;  longitude  93°  5'  W. 


MINNESOTA. 


943 


ST.   PAUL. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  bluff  70  or  80  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river. 
The  sides  of  this  bluff  have  been  gradually  graded  until  they  now 
form  a  succession  of  terraces,  upon  which  the  greater  part  of  the 
business  portion  is  located.  Considering  the  difficulties  to  be  over- 
come, the  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  well  built.  Limestone  of 
an  excellent  quality  is  abundant  in  the  vicinity,  and  has  been  largely 
used  in  building,  thus  giving  to  the  place  an  appearance  of  elegance 
and  solidity.  The  streets  are  wide,  well  paved,  and  shaded  with  trees. 

The  principal  buildings  are  the  State  House,  built  of  brick, 
143  by  50  feet;  the  State  Arsenal;  the  New  Opera  House;  and 
the  Athenaeum. 

The  city  contains  21  or  22  churches,  several  public  and  private 
schools  and  colleges,  1  or  2  public  libraries,  and  4  or  5  newspaper 
offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water.  It  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Common  Council.  In  1870  the  population 
was  20,031. 

St.  Paul  is  connected  with  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  by  railway,  and 
also  with  Dulutfa  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior.  A  line  is  also  in 
progress  north-westward,  which  is  to  connect  with  the 


944  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Pacific  Railway.  The  city  lies  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation 
on  the  Mississippi.  About  50  steamers  ply  between  St.  Paul  and 
Dubuque,  La  Crosse,  and  St.  Louis.  The  aggregate  tonnage  of  St. 
Paul  for  1867  was  13,308  tons.  There  are  a  number  of  steam  saw- 
mills and  flour-mills  in  the  vicinity. 

St.  Paul  is  growing  very  rapidly  in  population  and  importance.  It 
was  visited  as  early  as  1680  by  Father  Hennepin.  The  first  actual 
settlement,  however,  was  made  in  1838  by  Parraut,  a  Canadian. 
Father  Gaultier,  a  Chatholic  missionary,  built  a  log  chapel  on  the 
edge  of  the  bluff,  which  he  called  St.  Paul's.  This  became  the  name 
of  the  settlement.  Upon  the  organization  of  the  Territory  of  Minne- 
sota in  1849  St.  Paul  became  the  capital.  It  was  incorporated  as  a 
town  in  the  same  year,  and  as  a  city  in  1854. 

MINNEAPOLIS, 

In  Hennepin  county,  is  a  flourishing  city.  It  is  situated  on  the  right 
or  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  opposite  the  town  of  St.  Anthony, 
and  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  7  or  8  miles  northwest  of  St.  Paul. 
It  contains  the  county  buildings,  about  10  churches,  several  schools, 
4  hotels,  and  a  newspaper  office.  It  is  united  with  the  town  of  St. 
Anthony  by  2  bridges.  It  contains  also  several  founder! es,  woollen 
mills,  machine  shops,  and  saw-mills.  The  latter,  it  is  stated,  saw  about 
70,000,000  feet  of  lumber  annually.  The  river  here  affords  immense 
water-power.  It  is  stated  that  the  product  of  the  mills  at  the  Falls 
of  St.  Anthony  in  1867  was  valued  at  $4,669,358.  In  1870  the 
population  of  Minneapolis  was  13,066. 

It  is  rapidly  increasing.     It  is  connected  by  railway  with  St.  Paul. 

WINONA, 

In  the  county  of  the  same  name,  is  situated  on  the  right  or  south- 
western bank  of  the  Mississippi,  105  miles  by  land  below  St.  Paul. 
It  contains  the  county  buildings,  about  12  churches,  several  schools, 
one  of  which  is  a  Normal  School,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  It  is  the 
principal  market  of  a  rich  and  flourishing  agricultural  country,  and 
is  noted  for  its  heavy  shipments  of  grain,  being  the  principal  wheat 
market  of  the  State.  It  possesses  also  a  considerable  trade  in  lumber. 
Timber  and  limestone  abound  in  the  county.  It  is  connected  by 
railway  with  St.  Paul,  Milwaukee,  and  Chicago,  and  has  steamboat 
communication  with  the  towns  on  the  Mississippi.  It  was  first  settled 
in  1851,  and  in  1857  was  chartered  as  a  city.  In  1870  the  population 
was  7192. 


IOWA. 

Area,       55,045  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 674,913 

Population  in  1870, 1,194,020 

THE  State  of  Iowa  is  situated  between  40°  30'  and  43°  30'  N. 
latitude,  and  between  90°  and  97°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Minnesota,  on  the  east  by  Wisconsin  and  Illinois,  from  which 
it  is  separated  by  the  Mississippi  River,  on  the  south  by  Missouri,  and 
on  the  west  by  Nebraska  and  Dakota  Territory. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  of  the  State  is  generally  a  fine  rolling  prairie.  The 
highest  land  in  the  State,  Table  Mound,  is  not  over  500  feet  high.  In 
the  northwest  there  is  a  ragged  region  called  the  "  Coteau  des  Prairies." 

The  Mississippi  River  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State,  and 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Des  Moines  (beginning  on  the  south),  Skunk, 
Iowa,  Wapsipinicon,  Makoqueta,  and  Upper  Iowa.  Davenport, 
Burlington,  and  Dubuque  are  the  principal  towns  on  the  Mississippi. 
The  Des  Moines  River  is  the  principal  stream  lying  within  the  State. 
It  rises  in  the  extreme  southern  part  of  Minnesota,  and  flows  south- 
east across  Iowa  into  the  Mississippi,  at  Keolmk,  dividing  the  State 
almost  exactly  in  half.  It  is  about  450  miles  long,  and  at  high  water 
is  navigable  for  light  draught  steamers  for  250  miles.  It  flows 
through  an  undulating  country  abounding  in  rich  prairies.  The  Iowa 
River  rises  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  in  Hancock  county,  and 
flows  southeast  into  the  Mississippi.  It  is  about  300  miles  long,  and 
is  navigable  to  Iowa  city,  80  miles,  at  high  water.  Its  principal 
branch  is  the  Red  Cedar  River,  which  rises  in  the  southern  part  of 
60  945 


946  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Minnesota,  and  flows  southeast  into  it  about  25  or  30  miles  from  its 
mouth.  It  is  about  300  miles  long,  and  is  a  fine  mill  stream.  The 
Missouri  River  forms  the  western  boundary  from  Sioux  City  to  the 
Missouri  line,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Big  and  Little  Sioux  and 
several  smaller  streams.  The  principal  towns  on  the  Missouri  are 
Sioux  City  and  Council  Bluffs.  A  number  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Missouri  rise  in  the  southern  counties,  and  flow  southward  into  the 
State  of  Missouri. 

Several  small  lakes  lie  in  the  Northern  counties,  the  principal  of 
which  is  Spirit  Lake,  in  Dickinson  oounty. 

MINERALS. 

The  coal  beds  of  this  State  are  immense,  and  are  said  to  underlie 
an  area  of  20,000  square  miles.  In  some  places  they  are  more  than 
100  feet  thick,  and  as  they  lie  near  the  surface  can  be  worked  at  a 
slight  expense.  "  The  lead  mines  of  the  northeast,  of  which  Dubuque 
is  the  centre,  are  continuous  of  those  in  Wisconsin,  and  are  being  exten- 
sively and  profitably  worked.  Zinc  occurs  in  the  fissures  along  with 
the  lead,  and  copper  is  also  found  in  this  region  and  along  the  Cedar 
River.  Iron  ore  exists  in  considerable  quantities,  but  is  not  much 
worked.  Many  portions  of  the  State  are  underlaid  with  limestone, 
and  building  stone  of  several  varieties  exists,  the  Annamosa  quarries, 
of  Jones  county,  ranking  among  the  best  in  the  State.  Gypsum  also 
appears  in  limited  quantities,  and  peat  abounds  in  a  number  of  coun- 
ties, one  bed  in  Sac  county  containing  over  300  acres,  from  3  to  9  feet 
in  thickness." 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  milder  than  that  of  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin.  The 
"  Hand-Book  of  Iowa  "  thus  speaks  of  it :  "  Our  spring  usually  com- 
mences in  March,  and  by  the  middle  of  April  the  prairies  are  green, 
with  mild,  beautiful  weather.  In  May,  all  the  face  of  nature  is  covered 
with  flowers,  and  the  foliage  of  the  prairies  bends  before  the  breeze 
like  the  waves  of  an  enchanted  lake,  whilst  the  whole  atmosphere  is 
scented  with  the  breath  of  flowers.  At  all  seasons  of  the  year,  a  gentle 
breeze  is  fanning  the  prairies,  and  a  day  is  never  so  sultry  but  that  a 
cooling  breath  comes  to  moderate  the  melting  temperature.  The 
evening  twilights  are  beautiful,  in  most  seasons  of  the  year,  continuing 
nearly  two  hours  after  sunset.  Ten  months  in  the  year  our  roads  are 
hard,  smooth  and  dry.  In  autumn,  the  weather,  with  little  exception, 
is  usually  pleasant  and  fine  until  near  December.  Winter  brings  us 


IOWA.  947 

very  little  snow,  some  years  not  amounting  to  more  than  six  or  eight 
inches  altogether ;  the  weather  through  the  winter  being  mostly  made 
up  of  cool,  sunshiny  days  and  clear  frosty  nights.  High,  dry,  salu- 
brious, and  rolling,  with  most  excellent  water  and  a  bracing  atmo- 
sphere, consumption  was  never  known  to  seize  a  victim  here.  On  the 
streams  the  ague  and  fever  sometimes  intrudes,  with  fevers,  occasion- 
ally, of  other  types ;  but,  as  the  country  becomes  settled  and  culti- 
vated, these  disappear  and  are  unknown." 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  is  generally  fertile  and  easily  cultivated.  In  this  respect, 
Iowa  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  States  in  the  Union. 

"Corn,  wheat,  oats,  and  hay,  are  the  great  staples  of  Iowa,  being 
grown  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  in  every  county  in  the  State,  with 
the  addition  of  rye,  barley,  buckwheat,  tobacco,  etc.,  in  limited  quan- 
tities. The  corn  crop  of  1866  reached  over  52,000,000  of  bushels, 
with  an  acreage  of  upwards  of  1,600,000,  the  crop  being  valued  at 
about  $23,000,000,  or  an  average  of  between  $14  and  $15  per  acre 
gross.  The  wheat  crop  of  the  same  year  reached  nearly  16,000,000 
bushels  upon  something  less  than  1,000,000  acres,  the  crop  being 
estimated  at  about  $22,000,000,  or  an  average  of  about  $22  to  the 
acre,  gross  product.  The  wheat  crop  is  the  principal  market  product, 
other  crops  being  largely  worked  up  at  home  and  sent  abroad  in  more 
condensed  form,  as  beef,  pork,  wool,  etc."5* 

There  are  over  9,000,000  acres  of  improved  land  in  the  State,  ihe 
principal  returns  are  as  follows  :  % 

Bushels  of  wheat, 29,000,000 

"           Indian  corn, 70,000,000 

oats, 21,000,000 

"           Irish  potatoes, 6,000,000 

rye, 540,000 

buckwheat, 160,000 

Tons  of  hay, 1,800,000 

Pounds  of  butter, •  .     .  28,000,000 

Number  of  horses, 450,000 

mules  and  asses, 25,485 

milch  cows, 375,000 

sheep, 900,000 

swine, 1,360,000 

cattle, 625,000 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $83,000,000 

Pounds  of  wool, 3,000,000 

*  Agricultural  Eeport  (U.  S.)  for  1868. 


948  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Iowa  has  no  foreign  commerce,  but  possesses  a  brisk  trade  along  the 
Missouri  and  Mississippi  rivers,  and  with  St.  Louis  and  Chicago. 

Manufactures  are  yet  in  their  infancy.  In  1860,  the  capital 
invested  in  them  amounted  to  $7,247,130.  They  yielded  an  annual 
product  of  $13,971,325. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  there  were  3160  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Iowa, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  over  $60,000,000.  The  principal  towns  are 
connected  with  each  other,  and  with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  The  great 
lines  connecting  with  the  Pacific  railway,  terminate  at  Council  Bluflfe 
in  this  State,  which  lies  opposite  Omaha,  in  Nebraska.  The  con- 
formation of  the  surface  of  the  State  renders  the  construction  of 
railroads  cheap  and  easy.  The  State  is  showing  an  energy  in  extend- 
ing and  perfecting  her  railroad  system  which  must  greatly  add  to  her 
wealth  and  population. 

EDUCATION. 

The  State  University,  at  Iowa  City,  is  a  flourishing  institution,  and 
has  an  endowment  of  nearly  $200,000.  It  has  a  Normal  department, 
which  has  produced  many  excellent  teachers,  but  efforts  are  being 
made  for  the  establishment  of  separate  normal  schools.  Besides  this 
University,  there  are  4  universities,  and  7  colleges  in  the  State,  all 
doing  well.  The  State  has  an  Agricultural  College,  which  is  said  to 
be  one  of  the  best  and  most  flourishing  institutions  of  its  kind  in  the 
Union. 

The  educational  system  is  under  the  supervision  of  a  State  Super- 
intendent of  Public  Instruction.  The  counties  have  each  a  separate 
Superintendent,  and  the  districts  have  their  own  Boards  of  Directors, 
who  have  the  immediate  charge  of  the  schools.  The  annual  expendi- 
tures for  the  support  of  the  schools  now  exceeds  $3,000,000.  There 
is  a  permanent  school  fund,  and  taxes  are  levied  for  the  benefit  of  the 
schools.  In  1870,  there  were  7332  public  schools  in  the  State, 
attended  by  205,923  pupils. 

Besides  these  there  are  over  fifty  seminaries  and  academies,  and  a 
number  of  private  schools  in  the  State,  from  which  we  have  no  recent 
returns. 

In  1870,  there  were  3540  libraries  in  the  State,  containing  673,600 
volumes. 


IOWA.  949 

In  the  same  year,  there  were  233  newspapers  and  periodicals  (22  of 
which  were  daily)  published  in  the  State,  their  total  annual  circulation 
was  16,403,380  copies. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Fort  Madison,  and  in  1867  contained 
160  convicts.  The  labor  of  the  prisoners  is  let  out  to  contractors,  and 
the  institution  is  almost  self-sustaining.  The  commutation  system 
has  been  successfully  introduced,  and  great  care  is  taken  to  reform  as 
well  as  punish  the  inmates. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  at  Iowa  City,  but  will  soon  be 
removed  to  Council  Bluffs,  and  provided  with  more  extensive  facilities. 
In  1867,  it  contained  75  pupils,  about  one-fifth  of  the  whole  number 
of  deaf  mutes  in  the  State. 

The  Institution  for  the  Blind  is  at  Vinton,  and  contains  about  50 
pupils.  It  is  free  to  all  blind  persons  residing  in  Iowa,  and  pupils 
are  takes  from  other  States  at  moderate  rates. 

The  Hospital  for  Insane,  is  at  Mount  Pleasant,  and  is  a  flourishing 
institution.  Additional  accommodations  are  needed.  In  1867,  it 
contained  344  inmates. 

The  State  makes  an  appropriation  for  the  support  of  Homes  for 
Soldiers'  Orphans  at  Davenport,  Cedar  Falls,  and  Glenwood. 

KELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  1446  churches  in  Iowa.     The  value  of  church 

property  was  $5,730,352. 

FINANCES. 

The  State  debt  amounted  in  1868  to  a  little  over  $300,000,  and 
was  contracted  principally  on  account  of  the  late  war.  It  is  fully 
secured.  At  the  close  of  the  fiscal  year,  in  1869,  there  was  a  balance 
of  $303,198  in  the  State  Treasury. 

In  1868  there  were  44  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $4,057,- 
000,  doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  who  has  resided  in  the 
State  six  months,  and  in  the  county  sixty  days,  except  persons  in  the 
military  or  naval  service  of  the  Union,  idiots,  insane  persons,  or 


950  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

convicts,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections.  Negroes  were  admitted 
to  the  franchise  in  1868. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenaut-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Auditor,  Treasurer,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a 
Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate  and  a  House  of  Representatives. 
The  State  officers  are  elected  for  two  years,  the  Senators  for  four  years, 
one  half  retiring  biennially,  and  the  Representatives  for  two  years. 
The  sessions  of  the  Legislature  are  biennial. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  District  Court, 
and  such  other  inferior  courts  as  may  be  established  by  the  Legislature. 
These  last  consist  of  28  Circuit  Courts  established  by  the  Legislature 
in  1868.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  four  judges  elected  by  the 
people  for  six  years.  The  judge  having  the  shortest  term  to  serve  is 
the  Chief  Justice.  All  judges  in  this  State  are  elected. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Des  Moines. 

The  State  is  divided  into  99  counties. 

HISTORY. 

This  State  derives  its  name  from  the  tribe  of  Iowa  Indians  who 
inhabited  a  large  portion  of  it.  It  was  originally  a  part  of  Louisiana, 
and  was  included  in  the  territory  purchased  from  France  by  the 
United  States  in  1803.  The  first  white  settlement  was  made  by 
Julien  Dubnque,  an  Indian  trader,  who  founded  the  city  which  bears 
his  name.  He  married  an  Indian  woman  and  became  a  famous  chief 
among  the  savages,  and  as  early  as  1800,  commenced  to  work  the 
lead  mines  with  the  natives. 

In  1830,  a  severe  war  broke  out  between  the  various  Indian  tribes. 
The  Sacs  and  Foxes,  who  inhabited  the  mining  region,  were  driven 
away  by  the  Sioux.  Later  in  the  same  year  a  number  of  miners 
came  out  to  the  lead  mines  which  had  been  abandoned  by  the  Indians, 
and  commenced  to  work  them.  They  were  driven  away  by  Captain 
Zachary  Taylor,  then  commanding  the  United  States  forces  at  Prairie 
du  Chien,  in  Wisconsin.  He  stationed  a  force  of  soldiers  at  Dubuque, 
and  held  possession  of  it  until  1832,  when  the  Black  Hawk  War  began. 
After  the  war  was  over  the  miners  went  back  to  Dubuque. 

Upon  the  return  of  peace,  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  were  compelled  to 
cede  a  portion  of  their  lands  to  the  United  States,  as  indemnity  for 
the  expenses  of  the  war.  This  tract  extended  nearly  300  miles  north 
of  Missouri,  and  was  about  50  miles  wide.  It  is  usually  known  as 
tl>e  " Black  Hawk  Purchase"  Other  lands  were  purchased  from 


IOWA.  951 

the  Indians  for  $1,000,000,  and  the  present  limits  of  Iowa  cleared 
of  Indian  titles. 

The  first  white  settlement  in  these  purchases  was  made  at  Fort 
Madison  (in  the  present  county  of  Lee),  late  in  1832,  and,  in  1835, 
the  town  was  regularly  laid  off.  In  1833,  Burlington  was  founded, 
and  Dubuque  received  a  large  addition  to  its  population.  In  1835, 
a  number  of  Quakers  emigrated  to  the  territory,  and  settled  the  town 
of  Salem.  Other  settlements  sprang  up  rapidly  in  various  parts  of 
the  new  country,  and,  in  1836,  the  population  of  the  District  of  Iowa 
numbered  10,531  souls.  The  District  of  Iowa,  which  included  nearly 
all  the  settlements  west  of  the  Mississippi  for  about  100  miles  north 
of  the  Des  Moines  River,  was  attached  to  the  District  of  Wisconsin, 
then  a  part  of  Michigan  Territory,  for  convenience  of  government. 

In  1838,  the  Territory  of  Iowa  was  formally  organized  by  Congress, 
and  given  a  separate  Government.  The  population  at  this  time  num- 
bered 22,860  souls.  A  heavy  emigration  now  set  in  from  New  Eng- 
land and  New  York,  and  from  Europe,  and,  in  1840,  Iowa  Terri- 
tory contained,  according  to  the  Sixth  Census  of  the  United  States, 
43,114  inhabitants. 

"  Such  had  been  the  increase  of  emigration,  previous  to  1843,  that 
the  Legislature  of  Iowa  made  formal  application  for  authority  to  adopt 
a  State  Constitution.  At  the  following  session  of  Congress,  an  Act  was 
passed  to  '  enable  the  people  of  the  Iowa  Territory  to  form  a  State 
Government/  A  Convention  assembled  in  September,  and  on  the 
7th  of  October,  1 844,  adopted  a  Constitution  for  the  proposed  '  State  of 
Iowa;'  it  being  the  fourth  State  organized  within  the  limits  of  the 
province  of  Louisiana.  By  the  year  1844,  the  population  of  Iowa  had 
increased  to  81,921  persons  ;  yet  the  people  were  subjected  to  disap- 
pointment in  the  contemplated  change  of  government.  The  Constitu- 
tion adopted  by  the  Convention  evinced  the  progress  of  republican 
feeling,  and  the  strong  democratic  tendency  so  prominent  in  all  the 
new  States.  The  Constitution  for  Iowa  extended  the  right  of  suffrage 
to  every  free  white  male  citizen  of  the  United  States  who  had  resided 
six  months  in  the  State,  and  one  month  in  the  county,  previous  to  his 
application  for  the  right  of  voting.  The  judiciary  were  all  to  be  elec- 
ted by  the  people  for  a  term  of  four  years,  and  all  other  officers,  both 
civil  and  military,  were  to  be  elected  by  the  people  at  stated  periods. 
Chartered  monopolies  were  not  tolerated,  and  no  act  of  incorpora- 
tion was  permitted  to  remain  in  force  more  than  twenty  years,  unless 
%t  were  designed  for  public  improvements  or  literary  purposes ;  and  the 


952  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

personal  as  well  as  the  real  estate  of  the  members  of  all  corporations 
was  liable  for  the  debts  of  the  same.  The  Legislature  was  prohibited 
from  creating  any  debt  in  the  name  of  the  State  exceeding  $100,000, 
unless  it  were  for  defence  in  case  of  war,  invasion,  or  insurrection ; 
and  in  such  case,  the  bill  creating  the  debt  should,  at  the  same  time, 
provide  the  ways  and  means  for  its  redemption.  Such  were  some  of 
the  prominent  features  of  the  first  Constitution  adopted  for  the  State  of 
Iowa.  Yet  the  State  was  not  finally  organized  under  this  Constitu- 
tion, and  the  people  of  Iowa  remained  under  the  territorial  form  of 
government  until  the  close  of  the  year  1846. 

"  The  Constitution  of  Iowa  having  been  approved  by  Congress,  an 
Act  was  passed  March  3,  1845,  for  the  admission  of  the  l  State  of 
Iowa7  into  the  Federal  Union  simultaneously  with  the  'State  of 
Florida/  upon  the  condition  that  the  people  of  Iowa,  at  a  subsequent 
general  election,  assent  to  the  restricted  limits  imposed  by  Congress, 
in  order  to  conform  with  the  general  area  of  other  western  States ;  but 
the  people  of  Iowa  refused  to  ratify  the  restricted  limits  prescribed  for 
the  new  State,  a  majority  of  nearly  2000  in  the  popular  vote  having 
rejected  the  terms  of  admission.  Hence,  Iowa  remained  under  the 
territorial  government  until  the  beginning  of  1846,  when  the  people, 
through  their  Legislature,  acquiesced  in  the  prescribed  limits,  and 
Congress  authorized  the  formation  of  another  Constitution,  prepara- 
tory to  the  admission  of  Iowa  into  the  Union. 

"  The  people  of  Iowa,  in  1846,  assented  to  the  restriction  of  limits, 
and  the  formation  of  a  territorial  government  over  the  remaining 
waste  territory  lying  north  and  west  of  the  limits  prescribed  by  Con- 
gress, Petitions,  with  numerous  signatures,  demanded  the  proposed 
restriction  by  the  organization  of  a  separate  Territory,  to  be  designated 
and  known  as  the  *  Dacotah  Territory/  comprising  the  Indian  terri- 
tory beyond  the  organized  settlements  of  Iowa.  Congress  accordingly 
authorized  a  second  Convention  for  the  adoption  of  another  State  Con- 
stitution, and  this  Convention  assembled  in  May,  1846,  and  adopted 
another  Constitution,  which  was  submitted  to  Congress  in  June  fol- 
lowing. In  August,  1846,  the  State  of  Iowa  was  formally  admitted 
into  the  Union,  and  the  first  State  election  was,  by  the  proclamation  of 
Governor  Clarke,  to  be  held  on  the  26th  day  of  October  following. 
In  the  ensuing  December,  the  first  State  Legislature  met  at  Iowa 
City."  * 

*  Monette, 


IOWA.  953 

During  the  Rebellion  Iowa  contributed  75,860  men  to  the  military 
service  of  the  United  States. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  are,  Dubuqtie, 
Davenport,  Burlington,  Keokuk,  Muscatine,  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa 
City,  and  Fort  Madison. 

DES  MOINES, 

In  Folk  county,  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Des  Moines  and  Raccoon  Rivers,  at  the  head  of  steam- 
boat navigation  on  the  Des  Moines.  It  is  175  miles  west  of  Daven- 
port, and  140  miles  east  of  Council  Bluffs.  It  lies  in  the  exact 
geographical  centre  of  the  State,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  smooth  val- 
ley, rising  on  all  sides,  by  successive  benches,  back  to  the  gently 
sloping  hills,  which  finally  attain  a  height  of  about  200  feet.  The 
scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  beautiful.  The  city  is  laid  off  with 
wide  streets,  and  is  being  well  built.  The  State  capitol  is  at  present 
a  plain  structure,  situated  on  a  commanding  eminence.  It  is  de- 
signed to  replace  it  at  an  early  day  by  a  building  worthy  of  the  State. 
The  city  already  contains  11  churches,  several  flourishing  public  and 
private  schools,  and  3  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and 
is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  It  has  railway  communica- 
tion with  the  important  towns  of  the  State.  Steamers  ascend  the 
Des  Moines  from  the  Mississippi  to  this  point.  The  city  contains 
several  founderies,  and  machine  shops.  The  river  furnishes  abundant 
water-power,  and  stone  coal  is  found  in  the  vicinity.  In  1870,  the 
population  was  12,035. 

Des  Moines  was  originally  the  council  ground  of  the  Indians.  It 
was  afterwards  the  site  of  Fort  Des  Moines,  selected  by  the  officers 
of  the  United  States  army.  It  was  for  a  long  time  known  as  Fort 
Des  Moines.  In  1855  the  State  capital  was  transferred  to  this  place 
from  Iowa  City. 

DAVENPORT, 

In  Scott  county,  is  the  largest  and  most  important  city  in  the  State. 
It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  at  the 
foot  of  Upper  Rapids,  330  miles  above  St.  Louis,  184  miles  west- 
by-south  of  Chicago,  and  175  miles  east  of  Des  Moines.  The  city 
lies  at  the  base  of  a  bluff,  which  rises  gradually  from  the  river.  It 


954 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


DAVENPOIIT. 


is  connected  with  the  town  of  Rock  Island,  in  Illinois,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  by  a  handsome  bridge. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  well  built,  brick  and  stone 
entering  largely  into  the  construction  of  its  houses.  It  contains  the 
county  buildings,  about  13  churches,  a  high  school,  and  several  good 
public  and  private  schools,  and  3  newspaper  offices.  Griswold  College, 
a  flourishing  institution,  is  located  here.  The  city  is  lighted  with 
gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  popu- 
lation was  20,042.  Nearly  one-half  of  the  inhabitants  are  Germans. 

There  is  railway  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  country,  and 
the  city  conducts  an  active  trade  along  the  river.  Manufactures  are 
carried  on  to*  a  considerable  extent.  Cotton  and  woollen  cloth,  of  an 
excellent  quality,  are  made  here.  Stone  coal  is  found  in  great  quan- 
tities in  the  neghborhood,  and,  as  a  consequence,  the  mills  are  worked 
chiefly  by  steam-power.  The  rapids  of  the  Mississippi  extend  for 
about  20  miles  above  the  city,  and  during  the  season  of  low  water 
seriously  interfere  with  the  navigation  of  the  river. 

Davenport  was  first  settled  in  1837,  and  derives  its  name  from 
Colonel  George  Davenport,  who  was  born  in  England,  in  1783.  He 
came  to  America  at  an  early  age,  entered  the  United  States  army,  as 
a  sergeant,  and  did  good  service  on  the  frontier  in  the  war  of  1812. 
At  the  return  of  peace,  he  settled  on  Rock  Island,  opposite  the  pre- 


IOWA. 


955 


DTJBTJQTJE. 

sent  city  of  Davenport,  from  which  he  carried  on  a  trade  in  furs  with 
the  Indians.  He  was  killed  by  a  band  of  robbers,  who  were  engaged 
in  plundering  his  house,  on  the  4th  of  July,  1845. 

DUBUQUE, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  450  miles  above  St. 
Louis. 

The  city  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  in  the  West. 
It  is  built  partly  upon  a  terrace,  which  extends  several  miles  along 
the  river,  and  partly  upon  a  bluff,  which  rises  200  feet  higher.  The 
lower  part  of  the  city  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity  ;  but  the  por- 
tion upon  the  bluff  is  made  to  conform  to  the  irregularities  of  the 
surface.  The  city  is  substantially  built,  and  contains  many  handsome 
edifices.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  United  States  Custom 
House,  the  City  Hall,  and  the  Market  House.  Many  of  the  business 
houses  are  handsomely  built,  and  some  of  the  residences  are  noted  for 
their  elegance,  while,  as  a  rule,  all  are  neat  and  tasteful.  The  scenery 
in  the  vicinity  is  very  beautiful,  the  country  being  occupied  with 
highly  cultivated  farms,  orchards  and  vineyards. 

The  city  contains  about  18  churches,  3  free  schools,  and  several 
private  schools,  and  5  newspapers,  3  of  which  are  German.  The  Du~ 
buque  Female  College,  Alexander  College  (Presbyterian),  and  the  Epis- 


956 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


ISt'IlLIXOTON. 


copal  Seminary  are  flourishing  institutions.  The  city  is  lighted  with 
gas,  is  supplied  with  water,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council. 
In  1870,  the  population  was  18,434.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are 
Germans.  Dubuque  is  engaged  in  a  large  river  trade,  and  is  the 
shipping  point  for  an  extensive  grain-growing  section.  It  is  con- 
nected with  St.  Paul  and  St.  Louis  by  regular  lines  of  packets.  It  is 
also  the  great  depot  for  the  lead  mining  region  west  of  the  Mississippi. 
Some  of  the  best  mines  in  the  State  are  either  within  the  corporate 
limits,  or  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  annual  shipment  of  lead 
from  Dubuque  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  10,000,000  pounds.  There 
is  railway  communication  with  all  parts  of  the  Union. 

In  1788,  Julien  Dubuque,  a  French  trader,  built  a  trading  house 
at  this  place ;  but  his  colony  was  driven  away  by  the  Indians.  He 
instructed  the  Indians  in  the  manner  of  working  the  lead  mines.  In 
1833,  the  actual  permanent  settlement  of  the  place  began,  and,  in 
1847,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  city.  It  is  one  of  the  most  enterprising 
and  prosperous  towns  in  the  West,  and  is  growing  rapidly. 

BURLINGTON, 

In  Des  Moines  county,  is  the  third  city  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  45  miles  above  Keokuk,  248 
miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  210  miles  southwest  of  Chicago.  It  is 
regularly  laid  out,  and  beautifully  situated.  Part  of  the  city  is  built 
on  the  bluffs,  which  rise,  in  some  places,  200  fe.et  above  the  river. 


IOWA.  951 

From  these  heights  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  broad,  clear  river, 
and  the  beautiful  country  along  its  shores,  is  obtained.  The  city  is 
well  built,  the  larger  number  of  the  houses  being  of  brick  or  stone. 
It  contains  the  county  buildings,  about  13  or  14  churches,  several  ex- 
cellent schools,  public  and  private,  and  several  newspaper  offices.  It  is 
the  seat  of  the  Burlington  University,  conducted  by  the  Baptist  Church. 
It  is  also  actively  engaged  in  manufactures.  It  is  lighted  with  gas, 
and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population 
was  14,030. 

There  is  railway  communication  with  Chicago,  and  all  the  important 
points  of  the  State.  The  river  trade  is  valuable,  and  is  increasing. 
The  country,  for  sixty  miles  around  Burlington,  is  sometimes  called 
"the  garden  of  Iowa/'  and  of  this  fertile  region  Burlington  is  the 
principal  market. 

Burlington  wras  the  home  of  the  famous  Indian  chief  Black  Hawk, 
whose  bones  lie  buried  here.  It  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  in 
1833.  It  was  named  after  Burlington  in  Vermont,  by  John  Gray,  a 
native  of  that  place,  and  one  of  the  settlers.  In  1836,  it  was  made 
the  capital  of  Wisconsin  Territory.  In  1838,  when  the  Territory  of 
Iowa  was  organized,  the  seat  of  government  was  located  at  Burlington. 
In  1839,  the  capital  was  removed  to  Iowa  City. 

KEOKUK, 

in  Lee  county,  is  the  fourth  city  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  the 
right  or  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Lower  Rapids,  and  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Moines  River. 
From  its  position  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the  State,  and  its  prox- 
imity to  the  great  rivers  of  the  State,  it  has  been  termed  the  "  Gate 
City  "  of  Iowa.  It  is  205  miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  136  miles  below 
Davenport. 

The  city  is  built  on  the  summit  and  slopes  of  a  large  limestone 
bluff,  around  which  the  river  sweeps  with  a  broad  curve.  The  lime- 
stone is  extensively  used  in  building.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  off, 
with  broad,  straight  streets,  and  is  substantially  built.  It  contains 
the  county  buildings,  10  or  12  churches,  the  Medical  Department  of 
the  State  University,  several  public  and  private  schools,  and  4  news- 
paper offices.  It  is,  to  a  limited  extent,  engaged  in  manufactures, 
flour,  iron,  and  beer  being  the  principal  articles.  Pork  packing  is 
also  carried  on.  The  river  furnishes  excellent  water-power.  The 
city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In 
1870,  the  population  was  12,769. 


958  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Keokuk  is  connected  by  railway  with  the  principal  points  of  the 
State  and  Union.  It  conducts  a  large  trade  along  the  Des  Moines 
and  Mississippi  rivers.  The  Lower  Rapids- of  the  Mississippi  begin 
here.  They  are  12  miles  in  extent.  During  this  distance,  the  river 
falls  24J  feet  over  a  rocky  bed  of  limestone,  making  it  difficult  for 
large  steamers  to  pass  the  rapids.  In  consequence  of  this,  the  cargoes 
of  the  larger  boats  are  transferred  at  Keokuk  to  other  conveyances, 
and  thus  a  large  business  is  thrown  into  the  hands  of  the  city. 

The  city  derives  its  name  from  Keokuk  (the  Watchful  Fox),  the 
famous  Sac  chieftain,  who  was  distinguished  for  his  friendship  for  the 
whites  during  the  Black  Hawk  War.  He  was  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable Indians  mentioned  in  our  history.  The  town  was  laid  out 
in  1837.  Ten  years  later,  it  had  a  population  of  620  inhabitants. 
After  the  year  1849,  however,  a  change  for  the  better  took  place,  and 
Keokuk  began  to  grow  with  great  rapidity. 

MISCELLANY. 
FRONTIER    JUSTICE. 

In  the  year  1836,  was  organized  a  band  of  horse-thieves,  counterfeiters,  and 
highway  robbers,  having  their  headquarters  near-  Elk  Heart,  Michigan,  and 
extending  their  ramifications  in  all  directions  from  that  point  many  hundred 
miles.  The  Rock  River  Valley,  Illinois,  and  the  settled  portions  of  what  is  now 
Iowa,  were  the  chief  points  of  their  operations,  although  the  band  extended 
through  Kentucky,  Missouri,  and  even  to  the  Cherokee  Nation. 

Their  organization  was  complete.  They  had  their  passwords,  and  other 
means  of  recognition.  No  great  master  spirit  controlled  the  whole  organization, 
as  is  usually  the  case  in  criminal  associations  of  that  nature.  The  leaders  were 
those  whose  education  rendered  them  superior  to  the  instincts  of  the  half  savage 
settlers  with  whom  they  were  associated. 

Their  method  of  doing  business,  and  escaping  detection,  was  as  follows  :  B.'  s 
band,  in  Iowa,  would  "spot"  certain  horses  and  other  "plunder,"  and  arrange 
to  make  a  foray  on  some  particular  night.  A.,  in  Missouri,  having  obtained  the 
knowledge  of  this,  would  start  his  band  on  a  marauding  expedition  the  same 
night.  But  those  who  were  to  do  the  plundering  would  make  a  feint  to  go  north 
or  south  on  a  trading  expedition,  a  day  or  two  before  the  time  fixed  upon,  and, 
returning  at  night,  would  be  carefully  concealed  until  the  proper  time,  when 
they  would  sally  forth  on  the  expedition  in  earnest.  The  two  bands  then  meet- 
ing half  way,  would  exchange  the  stolen  property,  and  returning,  dispose  of 
the  plunder,  perhaps  to  the  very  persons  whom  they  had  robbed  a  few  nights 
before. 

Those  of  the  band  who  were  merely  accomplices,  were  careful  to  be  visiting 
some  honest  neighbor  on  the  night  of  the  robbery,  and  thus  avert  suspicion  from 
themselves.  By  this  means,  it  will  be  seen  that  detection  was  almost  impossible, 
and  suspicion  unlikely  to  rest  upon  the  real  perpetrators. 

The  then  frontier  village  of  Bellevue  was  a  central  point  on  this  route,  and 


IOWA.  959 

also  the  headquarters  of  one  of  the  most  numerous  and  powerful  of  the  bands. 
Its  leader,  William  Brown,  was  a  man  remarkable  in  many  respects.  He  came 
to  Bellevue  in  the  spring  of  1836,  and  soon  after  brought  out  his  family  and 
opened  a  public  house,  which  was  destined  to  become  famous  in  the  village 
history.  Brown,  physically,  was  a  powerful  man,  and  in  education  superior  to 
those  around  him.  He  possessed  a  pleasant,  kindly  address,  and  was  scrupulously 
honest  in  his  every  day's  dealings  with  his  neighbors.  It  is  said  that  none  who 
reposed  confidence  in  him  in  a  business  transaction  ever  regretted  it.  He  was 
ably  seconded  by  his  wife,  a  woman  of  about  24  years  of  age,  and  of  more  than 
ordinary  natural  capacity.  They  had  but  one  child,  a  little  girl  of  some  4  years 
of  age.  Ever  ready  to  assist  the  destitute,  the  foremost  in  public  improvements, 
this  family  soon  became  idolized  by  the  rude  population  of  that  early  day,  so  that 
nothing  but  positive  proof  finally  fastened  suspicions  of  dishonesty  upon  them. 
Having,  by  his  wiles,  seduced  a  larger  part  of  the  young  men  into  his  band,  and 
being  daily  reinforced  from  other  quarters,  Brown  became  more  bold  in  his 
operations,  then  threw  off  the  mask,  and  openly  boasted  of  his  power  and  the 
inability  of  the  authorities  to  crush  him  out.  It  was  no  idle  boast.  Fully  two- 
thirds  of  the  able  bodied  men  in  the  settlement  were  leagued  with  him.  He 
never  participated  in  passing  counterfeit  money,  stealing  horses,  etc.,  but  simply 
planned. 

Any  man  who  incurred  the  enmity  of  the  "gang,"  was  very  certain  to  wake 
some  morning  and  find  his  crops  destroyed,  his  horses  stolen,  and  the  marks  of 
his  cattle  having  been  slaughtered  in  his  own  yard  ;  in  all  probability  the  hind- 
quarters of  his  favorite  ox  would  be  offered  for  sale  at  his  own  door  a  few  hours 
thereafter.  If  one  of  his  gang  was  arrested,  Brown  stood  ready  to  defend  him, 
with  an  argument  not  now  always  attainable  by  the  legal  profession — he  could, 
at  a  moment's  notice,  prove  an  alibi.  Thus  matters  went  on,  until  it  became 
apparent  to  the  honest  portion  of  the  community  that  the  crisis  had  arrived. 

As  an  instance  of  the  boldness  which  they  evinced,  now  the  band  had  become 
so  powerful,  we  give  an  incident  of  the  stealing  of  a  plow  from  a  steamboat.  In 
the  spring  of  1839,  a  steamboat  landed  at  Bellevue  to  wood;  the  boat  was  crowded 
with  passengers,  and  the  hurricane  deck  covered  with  plows.  It  being  a  pleasant 
day,  the  citizens,  old  and  young,  according  to  custom,  had  sallied  forth  to  the 
river-side,  as  the  landing  of  a  steamboat  was  then  by  no  means  a  daily  occurrence. 
The  writer  of  this,  standing  near  Brown,  heard  him  remark  to  a  man  named 
Hapgood,  and  in  the  presence  of  numerous  citizens,  "that  as  he  (Hapgood)  had 
long  wanted  to  join  Brown's  party,  if  he  would  steal  one  of  those  plows,  and 
thus  prove  his  qualifications,  he  should  be  admitted  to  full  fellowship."  Hapgood 
agreed  to  make  the  trial,  and  thereupon,  to  our  surprise,  as  we  had  supposed  the 
conversation  to  be  merely  in  jest,  he  went  upon  the  hurricane  deck,  and,  in  the 
presence  of  the  captain,  passengers,  and  citizens  on  shore,  shouldered  a  plow  and 
marched  off  the  boat  and  up  the  levee.  When  on  the  boat,  Hapgood  conversed 
with  the  captain  for  a  few  minutes,  and  the  captain  pointed  out  to  him  which 
plow  to  take.  In  a  few  moments  the  boat  was  gone,  and  Hapgood  boasted  of  the 
theft.  It  was  supposed  that  he  had  bought  the  plow  and  paid  the  captain  for  it, 
but  the  next  day,  when  the  boat  returned,  there  was  great  and  anxious  inquiry, 
by  the  captain,  "for  the  man  that  took  that  plow,"  but  he  had  disappeared,  and 
remained  out  of  sight  until  the  boat  was  gone.  About  the  same  time,  another 
bold  robbery  occurred  near  Bellevue,  the  incidents  of  which  so  well  illustrate  the 
character  of  these  ruffians,  that  we  cannot  forbear  recounting  them. 


960  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

One  Collins,  a  farmer,  living  about  8  miles  from  town,  came  in  one  day  and 
sold  Brown  a  yoke  of  cattle  for  $80.  Being  a  poor  judge  of  money,  and  know- 
ing Brown's  character  well,  he  refused  to  take  anything  in  payment  but  specie. 
On  his  return  home  that  evening,  he  placed  his  money  in  his  chest.  About  mid- 
night, his  house  was  broken  open  by  two  men,  upon  which  he  sprang  from  his 
bed,  but  was  immediately  knocked  down.  His  wife,  coming  to  his  rescue,  was 
also  knocked  down,  and  both  were  threatened  with  instant  death  if  any  more 
disturbance  was  made.  The  robbers  then  possessed  themselves  of  Collins'  money 
and  watch,  and  departed.  In  the  morning,  he  made  complaint  before  a  justice 
of  the  peace,  accusing  two  men  in  the  employment  of  Brown  with  the  crime. 
They  were  arrested  and  examined.  On  the  trial,  Collins  and  his  wife  swore 
positively  to  the  men,  and  also  identified  a  watch  Tound  with  them  as  the  one 
taken,  In  their  possession  was  found  $80  in  gold,  the  exact  amount  stolen.  A 
farmer  living  near  Collins,  testified  that  about  11  o'clock,  on  the  night  of  the 
robbery,  the  accused  stopped  at  his  house  and  inquired  the  way  to  Collins'.  Here 
the  prosecution  closed  their  evidence,  and  the  defence  called  three  witnesses  to 
the  stand,  among  whom  was  Fox,  afterward  noted  as  the  murderer  of  Colonel 
Davenport,  all  of  whom  swore  positively  that,  on  the  night  of  the  robbery,  they 
and  the  accused  played  cards  from  dark  till  daylight,  in  Brown's  house,  8  miles 
from  the  scene  of  the  robbery.  In  the  face  of  the  overwhelming  testimony 
adduced  by  the  State,  the  defendants  were  discharged. 

Another  laughable  instance,  displaying  the  shrewdness  and  villainy  of  these 
fellows,  occurred  early  in  the  spring  of  1838.  Godfrey  (one  of  the  robbers  of 
Collins)  came  into  town  with  a  fine  span  of  matched  horses,  with  halter  ropes 
around  their  necks.  From  the  known  character  of  their  possessor,  the  sheriff 
thought  best  to  take  the  horses  into  his  custody.  Brown's  gang  remonstrated 
against  the  proceedings,  but  to  no  effect.  Subsequently  a  writ  of  replevin  Avas 
procured,  and  the  horses  demanded — the  sheriff  refused  to  give  them  up.  A 
general  row  ensued.  The  citizens,  being  the  stronger  party  at  that  time, 
sustained  the  sheriff,  and  lie  maintained  the  dignity  of  his  office.  Handbills, 
describing  the  horses  accurately,  were  then  sent  around  the  county.  A  few  days 
afterward,  a  stranger  appeared  in  town,  anxiously  inquiring  for  the  sheriff,  and, 
upon  meeting  him,  he  announced  his  business  to  be  the  recovery  of  a  fine  span 
of  horses,  which  had  been  stolen  from  him  a  short  time  before,  and  then  so  accu- 
rately described  those  detained  by  the  sheriff,  that  the  latter  informed  him  that 
he  then  had  them  in  his  stable.  Upon  examining  them,  the  man  was  gratified 
to  find  that  they  were  his ;  turning  to  the  crowd,  he  offered  $25  to  any  one 
who  would  produce  Godfrey,  remarking,  that  if  he  met  him,  he  would  wreak 
his  vengeance  upon  him  in  a  summary  manner,  without  the  intervention  of  a 
jury.  Godfrey  was  not,  however,  to  be  found,  and  the  horses  were  delivered  to 
the  stranger. 

Imagine  the  consternation  of  the  sheriff,  "when,  two  days  later,  the  true  owner 
of  the  horses  appeared  in  search  of  them.  The  other  was  an  accomplice  of  God- 
frey, and  they  had  taken  that  method  of  securing  their  booty.  Similar  incidents 
could  be  detailed  to  fill  pages,  for  they  were  of  continual  occurrence. 

On  the  20th  of  March,  1840,  the  citizens  of  Bellevue,  not  implicated  in  the 
plans  of  the  horse-thieves  and  counterfeiters,  held  a  meeting  to  consider  the 
wrongs  of  the  community.  But  one  opinion  was  advanced,  that  the  depredators 
must  leave  the  placo,  or  summary  vengeance  would  be  inflicted  upon  them  all. 
It  was  resolved  that  a  warrant  should  be  procured  for  the  arrest  of  the  whole 


IOWA.  9G1 

gang,  from  Justice  Watkius — father  of  our  present  sheriff- and,  upon  a  certain 
day,  the  sheriff,  accompanied  by  all  the  honest  citizens  as  a  posse,  should  proceed 
to  serve  the  same.  The  \varrant  was  issued  upon  the  affidavit  of  Anson  Harring- 
ton, Esq.,  one  of  our  most  respectable  citizens,  charging  about  half  the  inhabitants 
of  the  town — Brown's  men — with  the  commission  of  crimes. 

A  posse  of  80  men  was  selected  by  the  sheriff  from  among  the  best  citizens  of 
the  county,  who  met  in  Bellevue  on  the  1st  day  of  April,  1840,  at  10  o'clock,  A.  M. 
Brown,  in  the  meantime,  had  got  wind  of  the  proceedings,  and  had  rallied  a 
party  of  23  men,  whose  names  were  on  the  warrant,  and  proceeded  to  fortify  the 
Bellevue  Hotel,  and  prepare  for  a  vigorous  defence.  On  the  sheriff's  arriving  in 
Bellevue  with  his  party,  he  found  a  red  flag  streaming  from  the  hotel,  and  a 
portion  of  Brown's  men  marching  to  and  fro  in  front  of  their  fort,  armed  with 
rifles,  presenting  a  formidable  appearance. 

A  meeting  of  the  citizens  was  then  convened  to  consult  upon  the  best  method 
of  securing  the  ends  of  justice,  of  which  Major  Thomas  S.  Sparks  was  Chairman. 
It  was  resolved  that  the  sheriff  should  go  to  Brown's  fort,  with  two  men,  and 
demand  their  surrender,  reading  his  warrant,  and  assuring  them  that  they  should 
be  protected  in  their  persons  and  property.  It  Avas  also  resolved,  if  they  did  not 
surrender,  to  storm  the  house,  and  that  Colonel  Thomas  Cox,  then  a  representa- 
tive in  the  Iowa  Legislature,  should  assist  the  sheriff  in  the  command  of  the  party 
selected  for  this  purpose. 

The  sheriff  then  went  to  the  hotel,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Watkins  and 
Magoon.  When  near  the  house,  they  were  suddenly  surrounded  by  Brown  and 
a  party  of  his  men,  all  fully  armed.  They  captured  the  sheriff,  and  ordered 
Watkins  and  Magoon  to  return  and  inform  the  citizens,  that  at  the  first  attempt 
to  storm  the  house,  they  would  shoot  the  sheriff.  Being  conducted  into  the 
house,  the  sheriff  read  his  warrant,  and  informed  them  of  the  proceedings  of  the 
meeting.  Just  then  it  was  discovered  that  Colonel  Cox,  with  a  party  of  citizens, 
was  rapidly  advancing  on  the  hotel.  Upon  the  sheriff's  promise  to  stop  them 
and  then  return,  he  was  released  by  Brown.  He  met  the  party,  and,  accosting 
Cox,  requested  him  to  delay  the  attack  one  hour,  and  if  he  (the  sheriff)  did  not 
•return  by  that  time,  for  them  to  come  on  and  take  the  house. 

Cox  was  determined  the  sheriff  should  not  return,  saying  that  he  should  not 
keep  his  word  with  such  a  band  of  ruffians.  Better  counsels,  however,  prevailed, 
and  the  sheriff  went  back.  On  his  return,  he  found  that  Brown's  men  had  been 
drinking  freely  to  keep  up  their  courage.  After  some  parleying,  Brown  deter- 
mined not  to  surrender,  commanding  the  sheriff  to  return  to  his  men  and  tell 
them  to  come  on,  and  if  they  succeeded  in  carrying  the  hotel,  it  should  only  be 
over  their  dead  bodies. 

The  sheriff  returned  and  disclosed  the  result  of  his  interview.  Mrs.  Brown,  in 
the  meantime,  and  a  fellow  called  Buckskin,  paraded  the  streets  with  a  red  flag. 
The  citizens  were  then  addressed  by  Cox  and  Watkins,  and  it  was  finally  deter- 
mined that  a  body  of  40  men  should  be  selected  to  make  the  attack,  upon  which 
the  posse  started  and  charged  upon  the  house  at  a  full  run.  As  our  men  entered 
the  porch,  the  garrison  commenced  firing,  but  we  being  so  near,  they  generally 
overshot  their  mark.  At  the  first  fire,  one  of  oar  best  men,  Mr.  Palmer,  was 
killed,  and  another,  Mr.  Vaughn,  badly  wounded.  Brown  opened  the  door  and 
put  his  gun  to  shoot,  when  he  was  immediately  shot  down  by  one  of  our  men. 
The  battle  then  became  desperate  and  hand  to  hand.  After  considerable  hard 
fighting,  the  "balance"  of  the  gang  commenced  their  retreat  through  the  back 
61 


962  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

door  of  the  house.  They  were  surrounded  and  all  captured  but  3.  The  result 
of  the  fight  was,  on  the  part  of  the  counterfeiters,  the  loss  of  5  killed  and  2  badly 
wounded  ;  on  the  part  of  the  citizens,  4  killed  and  11  wounded. 

The  excitement  after  the  fight  was  intense.  Many  of  the  citizens  were  in  favor 
of  putting  all  the  prisoners  to  death.  Other  counsels,  however,  prevailed,  and  a 
citizens'  court  was  organized  to  try  them. 

During  the  fight,  Captain  Harris  anchored  his  boat  in  the  middle  of  the  river, 
and  remained  there  until  the  result  was  known,  when  the  passengers  ascended  to 
the  upper  deck  and  gave  three  hearty  cheers.  Doctors  Finley,  of  Dubuque,  and 
Crossman,  of  Galena,  were  sent  for,  and  were  soon  in  attendance  on  the  wounded 
of  both  parties. 

Much  joy  was  manifested  by  the  citizens  at  the  breaking  up  of  one  of  the  most 
desperate  gangs  of  housebreakers,  murderers,  and  counterfeiters  that  ever  infested 
the  western  country.  The  next  morning  a  vote  of  the  citizens  was  taken  as  to 
the  disposal  of  the  prisoners. 

As  the  District  Court  was  not  to  meet  for  three  months,  and  there  being  no  jail 
in  the  county,  and  in  fact  none  in  the  Territory  that  was  safe,  and  surrounded  as 
we  were  on  all  sides  by  offshoots  of  the  same  band,  who  could  muster  200  men 
in  a  day's  time  to  rescue  them,  it  was  deemed  the  merest  folly  to  attempt  to  detain 
them  as  prisoners,  and  it  was  resolved  to  execute  summary  justice  upon  them. 
The  question  was  then  put,  whether  to  hang  or  whip  them.  A  cup  of  red  and 
white  beans  was  first  passed  around,  to  be  used  as  ballots,  the  red  for  hanging, 
and  the  white  for  whipping. 

A  breathless  silence  was  maintained  during  the  vote.  In  a  few  moments  the 
result  was  announced.  It  stood  forty-two  white  and  thirty-eight  red  beans.  The 
resolution  to  whip  them  was  then  unanimously  adopted.  Fox,  afterward  the 
murderer  of  Davenport,  and  several  others  made  full  confessions  of  many  crimes, 
in  which  they  had  been  engaged.  The  whole  crowd  of  prisoners  was  then  taken 
out,  and  received  from  25  to  75  lashes  apiece,  upon  their  bare  backs,  according 
to  their  deserts.  They  were  then  put  into  boats  and  set  adrift  on  the  river,  with- 
out oars,  and  under  the  assurance  that  a  return  would  insure  a  speedy  death. 

Animated  by  the  example  of  Bellevue,  the  citizens  of  Rock  River,  Illinois, 
Linn,  Johnson,  and  other  counties  in  Iowa,  rose  en  masse,  and  expelled  the 
gangs  of  robbers  from  their  midst,  with  much  bloodshed. 

Thus  ended  the  struggle  for  supremacy  between  vice  and  virtue  in  Bellevue, 
which,  from  this  day  forth,  has  been  as  noted,  in  the  Mississipi  Valley,  for  the 
morality  of  its  citizens,  as  it  was  once  rendered  infamous,  by  their  crimei. 


MISSOURI. 

Area, 65,350  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 1,182,012 

Population  in  1870, 1,721,295 

THE  State  of  Missouri  is  situated  between  36°  30'  and  40°  36'  1ST. 
latitude,  and  between  89°  10'  and  96°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Iowa;  on  the  east  by  Illinois,  Kentucky,  and  Ten- 
nessee; on  the  south  by  Arkansas;  and  on  the  West  by  the  Indian 
Territory  and  Kansas.  Its  extreme  length,  from  east  to  west,  is  285 
miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  is  280  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

North  of  the  Missouri  River,  the  surface  of  the  State  is  principally 
level.  South  of  that  stream  it  is  rolling,  and  gradually  rises  into  a 
range  of  bold  highlands  known  as  the  Ozark  Mountains,  which  extend 
through  the  centre  of  the  State,  from  northeast  to  southwest;  south  of 
the  Osage  River,  and  pass  into  northwestern  Arkansas.  Beyond  the 
Osage  River,  immense  prairies  stretch  away  to  the  setting  sun.  The 
extreme  southeastern  part  of  the  State  is  occupied  by  a  large  swamp, 
which  extends  into  Arkansas.  The  Mississippi  River  forms  the  east- 
ern boundary  of  the  State,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  Salt,  Mis- 
souri, and  Maramec  rivers.  The  principal  places  on  the  Mississippi 
are  Hannibal,  St.  Louis,  Carondelet,  Cape  Girardeau,  and  New 
Madrid.  The  Missouri  River  forms  the  western  boundary  of  the 
State  to  Kansas  City.  At  this  point  it  bends  to  the  east,  and  flows 
east-southeast  across  the  State  into  the  Mississippi,  above  St.  Louis. 
It  receives  the  waters  of  the  Chariton  and  Grand  rivers,  on  the  north, 
and  those  of  the  Osage  and  Gasconade  on  the  south.  The  principal 

$63 


964 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


FLOATING   ISLAND   ON   THE   MISSOURI   RIVER. 

places  on  the  Missouri  are  El  Paso,  St.  Joseph's,  Kansas  Citv,  Lex- 
ington, Booneville,  Jefferson  City,  and  St.  Charles.  The  Missouri 
in  many  places  is  lined  with  high  bluffs,  and  flows  through  the  State 
for  about  340  miles.  The  Osage  River  rises  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
State  of  Kansas,  and  flows  east-northeast  into  the  Missouri,  about  10 
miles  below  Jefferson  City.  It  is  about  500  miles  long,  and  is  navi- 
gable at  high  water  for  200  miles.  The  St.  Francis  and  White  rivers 
drain  the  southeastern  part  of  the  State,  and  pass  into  Arkansas. 

MINERALS. 

"Missouri  is  richly  endowed  with  mineral  wealth.  The  iron  region 
around  Iron  Mountain  and  Pilot  Knob  is,  unsurpassed  in  the  world 
for  the  abundance  and  purity  of  its  deposits.  On  the  Maramec  River, 
and  in  some  other  localities,  are  found  small  quantities  of  lead.  Cop- 
per is  found  extensively  deposited,  being  most  abundant  near  the  La 
Motte  mines.  It  is  also  found  with  nickel,  manganese,  iron,  cobalt, 
and  lead,  in  combinations,  yielding  from  30  to  40  per  cent.  All 
these  metals,  except  nickel,  exist  in  considerable  quantities;  also 
silver,  in  combination  with  lead  ore  and  tin.  Limestone,  marble,  and 
other  eligible  building  material  are  abundant,  especially  north  of  the 


MISSOURI.  965 

Missouri.  The  geological  formations  of  the  State  are  principally  those 
between  the  upper  coal  measures  and  the  lower  silurian  rocks.  The 
drift  is  spread  over  a  large  surface;  in  the  north,  vast  beds  of  bitumi- 
nous coal,  including  cannel  coal,  exist  on  both  sides  of  the  Missouri 
River.  When  these  mineral  resources  shall  receive  their  proper 
development,  they  will  immensely  enlarge  the  scope  of  industrial 
enterprise."' 

CLIMATE. 

"The  climate  is  noted  for  extremes  of  temperature.  In  the  winter, 
the  rivers  are  often  frozen  so  as  to  admit  the  crossing  of  heavily-loaded 
vehicles,  while  in  summer  it  is  extremely  warm,  its  enervating  effects 
being  prevented  by  a  very  dry,  pure  atmosphere,  generally  favorable 
to  health  and  longevity." 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

"  The  soil  of  Missouri  is  remarkable  for  its  variety  and  excellence. 
The  most  productive  portions  are  the  alluvions  of  the  river-courses, 
which,  though  often  mixed  with  sand,  are  rich  in  the  elements  of 
fertilization.  Even  in  the  mountain  regions,  there  are  rich  valleys, 
and  those  tracts  reported  as  inarable  are  covered  with  valuable 
growths  of  white  pine.  The  marshes  of  the  southeast,  when  properly 
drained,  will  constitute  the  best  farming  lands  of  the  State.  The 
river  bottoms  are  covered  with  luxuriant  growths  of  oak,  elm,  ash, 
hickory,  cotton  wood,  linden,  and  white  and  black  walnut.  Thinner 
soils  abound  in  white  and  pin  oak;  and,  occasionally, are  covered  with 
heavy  forests  of  yellow  pine,  crab-apples,  pa\ypaws,  hazel,  and  wild 
grapes  of  a  spontaneous  luxuriance."* 

In  1869,  there  were  about  8,000,000  acres  of  improved  land  in  the 
State.  The  other  returns  for  the  same  year  were : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 7,500,000 

Indian  corn, 80,500,000 

"           oats, 6,500,000 

"           Irish  potatoes, 2,000,000 

"           rye, 325,000 

"           barley, 30(^000 

Tons  of  hay, 750,000 

Pounds  of  butter, 12,704,837 

Number  of  horses, 520,640 

asses  and  mules, 81,450 

*  General  Land  Office  Report. 


96  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

dumber  of  milch  cows, 390,120 

sheep, 1,001,890 

"           swine, 2,790,860 

young  cattle, 790,112 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $58,693,673 

Pounds  of  tobacco  (estimated), 20,000,000 

"           wool 2,000,000 

MANUFACTURES  AND  COMMERCE. 

Apart  from  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  this  State  is  not  largely  engaged 
in  manufactures.  In  1860,  the  capital  invested  in  them  amounted  to 
$20,500,000,  and  the  annual  product  to  $43,500,000. 
:  An  active  trade  is  conducted  by  the  towns  along  the  Mississippi  and 
Missouri  rivers.  St.  Louis,  on  the  former  stream,  is  one  of  the  most 
important  commercial  cities  in  the  Union.  The  State  has  no  foreign 
commerce,  its  products  being  shipped  from  New  Orleans  and  the 
Atlantic  ports,  from  which  also  its  imports  are  drawn. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1872,  there  were  2850  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  Missouri, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  about  $65,000,000.  There  is  railroad  commu- 
nication between  St.  Louis  and  the  principal  towns,  and  that  city  is 
connected  by  the  roads  of  Illinois  with  all  parts  of  the  Union.  A  main 
line  extends  from  St.  Louis,  across  the  State  into  Kansas. 

EDUCATION. 

There  are  11  colleges  in  Missouri,  the  principal  of  which  is  the 
State  University,  at  Columbia.  '  It  is  liberally  endowed,  and  will  soon 
be  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  an  Agricultural  Department.  It  has 
also  a  Normal  Department.  There  are  a  separate  State  Normal 
College,  and  a  private  Normal  School  in  successful  operation. 

The  schools  of  St.  Louis  are  distinct  from  those  of  the  State,  and 
enjoy  a  high  rank. 

The  educational  system  of  the  State  is  under  the  control  of  a  Super- 
intendent of  Public  Schools,  who  is  elected  by  the  people  for  two 
years.  The  State  is  divided  into  as  many  school  districts  as  it  has 
Congressional  Districts,  eacli  of  which  is  controlled  by  a  Board  of  Di- 
rectors. Each  district  is  divided  into  as  many  sub-districts  as  neces- 
sity may  require,  and  each  sub-district  is  in  charge  of  a  local  director. 
These  local  directors  constitute  the  Board  of  Directors  for  the  entire 
district.  Each  county  is  under  the  supervision  of  a  County  Superin- 


MISSOURI.  967 

tcndent,  who  is  elected  by  the  people  for  two  years.  The  permanent 
school  fund  amounted,  in  1870,  to  $1,674,986.  In  the  year  1870, 
the  State  expended  $1,074,141  for  the  support  of  the  public  schools. 
In  the  same  year,  there  were  5996  public  schools  in  the  State, 
attended  by  320,313  pupils. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Jefferson  City,  and,  in  1870, 
contained  797  convicts.  The  labor  of  the  prisoners  is  let  out  to 
contractors. 

The  Missouri  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Blind,  at  St.  Louis, 
was  established  in  1851.  It  is  supported,  in  part,  by  the  State, 
private  donations  doing  the  rest.  In  1868,  it  contained  70  pupils. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  at  Fulton,  was  closed  during 
the  war,  but  was  reopened  in  1866. 

The  Insane  Asylum  is  at  Fulton,  and  is  in  a  flourishing  condition. 
In  1867,  it  contained  about  420  patients. 

EELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  2082  churches  in  Missouri.  The  value  of 
church  property  was  $9,709,358. 

LIBRARIES    AND*  NEWSPAPERS. 

In  1870,  the  State  contained  5645  libraries,  with  1,065,638  volumes. 

In  the  same  year,  there  were  279  newspapers  and  periodicals  (21 
of  which  were  daily)  published  in  Missouri.  Their  aggregate  annual 
circulation  was  47,980,422  copies. 

FINANCES. 

In  1870,  the  total  bonded  debt  of  the  State  was  $17,886,000.  The 
receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  15  months  ending  December  31st,  1870, 
were  $2,847,035,  and  the  expenditures  for  the  same  period  $10,- 
037,137. 

In  1868,  there  were  8  State  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $1,960,300, 
and  18  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $7,810,300,  doing  business 
in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Male  citizens  of  the  United  States,  and  male  foreigners  who  have 
lawfully  declared  their  intention  to  become  citizens,  not  less  than 


9G8  TIIE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

one  year,  nor  more  than  five  years,  before  they  offer  to  vote,  who 
have  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  in  the  county  60  days,  are 
entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Auditor,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a 
Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  34  members)  and  a  House  of 
Representatives  (of  137  members),  all  elected  by  the  people.  The 
State  officers  and  Representatives  are  chosen  for  two  years.  Senators 
are  elected  for  four  years,  one- half  retiring  biennially.  The  general 
election  is  held  in  November,  and  the  Legislature  meets  biennially,  in 
December. 

The  Courts  of  the  State  are  the  Supreme  Court  (consisting  of  three 
judges),  Circuit  Courts,  District  Courts,  and  County  Courts.  All 
judges  are  elected  by  the  people. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Jefferson  City. 

The  State  is  divided  into  113  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Missouri  was  originally  a  French  province,  and  was  included  in 
the  Louisiana  purchase  of  1803.  It  was  first  visited  by  Marquette 
and  Joliet  in  1673,  during  their  memorable  voyage  down  the  Missis- 
sippi. In  1719,  Fort  Orleans  was  built  at  the  mouth  of  the  Osage 
River,  not  far  from  the  present  capital  of  the  State.  In  1720,  the  lead 
mines  were  first  worked  by  the  French.  The  town  of  St.  Genevieve 
was  founded  in  1755,  and  St.  Louis  in  1764.  .  These  were  speedily 
followed  by  other  settlements,  the  whole  region  forming  a  part  of  the 
Province  of  Louisiana,  which,  in  1763,  was  ceded  by  France  to  Spain. 
The  Spaniards  were  very  liberal  and  politic  in  their  treatment  of  this 
part  of  their  new  province,  and  the  settlers  had  no  reason  to  complain 
of  the  change. 

At  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  the  population  of  St.  Louis  was 
about  800  souls.  In  1780,  a  force  of  1500  British  and  Indians  from 
the  Lakes  laid  siege  to  it,  and  invested  it  for  a  week,  reducing  it  to 
great  straits,  and  killing  60  or  70  of  the  inhabitants.  Fortunately,  a 
force  of  Kentuckians,  under  General  Rogers  Clarke,  cam§  to  its  relief, 
and  drove  the  enemy  away. 

After  the  peace  of  1783,  Spain  retained  possession  of  Louisiana,  and 
the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  became  the  property  of  the  United 
States.  Settlers  from  the  United  States  crossed  over  repeatedly  to  the 
Spanish  shore,  and  built  their  cabins.  They  were  not  suffered  to  re- 


MISSOURI.  969 

main  in  peace  by  the  authorities,  and  this  led  to  a  diplomatic  corres- 
pondence between  Spain  and  the  United  States,  by  which  the  former 
granted  the  free  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  Americans.  The 
Spanish  officials  on  the  river,  however,  paid  no  attention  to  the  treaty, 
and  there  was  every  prospect  of  a  serious  difficulty  between  the  two 
countries  when  the  cession  of  Louisiana  to  France  by  Spain,  and  its 
purchase  by  the  United  States,  removed  all  danger  of  hostilities. 

The  new  territory  was  at  once  divided  into  two  Governments,  the 
Territory  of  Orleans,  and  the  District  of  Louisiana.  Soon  after  this, 
the  Territory  of  Orleans  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  the  State  of 
Louisiana.  The  name  of  the  District  was  at  once  changed  to  Mis- 
souri Territory.  Emigrants  came  in  rapidly,  and,  in  1810,  the  popu- 
lation was  20,845.  In  1817,  it  was  60,000. 

The  people  of  Missouri  now  applied  for  admission  into  the  Union  as 
a  State.  Slavery  existed  in  the  Territory,  and  they  were  anxious  to 
retain  it  in  the  new  State.  The  Free  Soil  party  of  the  country  op- 
posed its  admission  as  a  slave-holding  State,  and  the  South  and  the 
Democratic  party  sustained  the  demand  of  the  Missourians.  A  se- 
vere political  struggle,  which  has  already  been  described,  at  once 
began,  and  continued  for  two  years  with  such  violence  that  it  threat- 
ened to  destroy  the  Union.  It  was  allayed  by  a  compromise  offered 
by  Henry  Clay,  that  Missouri  should  be  admitted  as  a  slaveholding 
State ;  but  that  slavery  should  never  exist  in  the  territory  north  of 
36°  30'  N.  latitude.  A  settlement  being  effected  upon  this  condition, 
Missouri  was  admitted  as  a  State  on  the  14th  of  December,  1821. 

During  the  excitement  in  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  the  western 
border  of  Missouri  became  the  scene  of  almost  constant  hostilities 
between  the  Pro-slavery  men  and  Free  Settlers  of  Kansas. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Rebellion,  an  unsuccessful  effort  was  made 
to  force  the  State  into  the  Southern  Confederacy.  It  failed  through 
the  superior  vigilance  and  promptness  of  the  Union  men  of  the  State. 
The  population  was  divided  between  the  Union  and  the  Confederacy, 
and  thousands  of  troops  entered  both  armies.  The  American  popula- 
tion was  almost  a  unit  in  favor  of  the  South,  while  the  foreigners  were 
Union  men.  Several  severe  battles  were  fought  in  the  State,  and 
many  minor  encounters  occurred  within  its  limits.  The  State  was 
held  by  the  United  States  army  during  the  war,  and  its  civil  govern- 
ment was  almost  suspended  until  after  the  return  of  peace.  A  new 
Constitution  was  adopted  in  1865,  and  amended  by  the  popular  vote 
in  1870. 


9TO  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  cities  and  towns  of  the  State  are 
St.  Louis,  St.  Joseph's,  Hannibal,  Lexington,  Carondelet,  St.  Charles, 
Weston,  Booneville,  Washington,  Brunswick,  Columbia,  Independ- 
ence, Liberty,  Palmyra,  and  Springfield. 

JEFFERSON  CITY, 

In  Cole  county,  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  155  miles  by  water  above  St.  Louis,  and 
980  miles  from  Washington  City.  Latitude  38°  36'  N. ;  longitude 
92°  8'  W.  The  situation  is  picturesque,  the  city  being  located  on  a 
commanding  bluff',  from  which  an  extensive  view  is  obtained.  The 
city  is  tolerably  well  built,  but,  apart  from  being  the  capital  of  the 
State,  has  few  attractions.  The  State  House  is  the  principal  building. 
It  is  constructed  of  stone,  and  presents  a  magnificent  appearance  from 
the  river  below  the  town.  The  city  contains  the  Governor's  Mansion, 
the  State  Penitentiary,  several  schools,  public  and  private,  about  5 
churches,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  In  1870  the  population  was 
4420. 

In  1821,  Jefferson  City  was  chosen  as  the  capital  of  the  State,  and 
in  1822  the  town  was  laid  out. 

ST.  LOUIS, 

In  the  county  of  the  same  name,  is  the  metropolis  of  the  State,  the 
largest  city  of  the  Western  States,  and  the  fourth  city  with  regard  to 
population  in  the  United  States.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  20  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  River,  174 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  774  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  1194  miles  above  New  Orleans,  856  miles  west-by-south  of 
Washington,  and  128  miles  east  of  Jefferson  City. 

"  The  site  rises  from  the  river  by  two  plateaus  of  limestone  forma- 
tion ;  the  first  20  and  the  other  60  feet  above  the  floods  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  ascent  to  the  first  plateau,  or  bottom  as  it  may  be  termed, 
is  somewhat  abrupt ;  the  second  rises  more  gradually,  and  spreads  out 
into  an  extensive  plain,  affording  fine  views  of  the  city  and  river.  St. 
Louis  extends  in  all  nearly  7  miles  by  the  curve  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  about  3  miles  back ;  the  thickly  settled  portion,  however,  is  only 
2  or  2J  miles  in  length,  following  the  river,  and  about  1J  miles  in 
breadth.  The  city  is  well  laid  out,  the  streets  being  for  the  most  part 


MISSOURI.  9U 

60  feet  wide,  and,  with  few  exceptions,  intersecting 'each  other  at  right 
angles.  Front  street,  extending  along  the  levee,  is  upwards  of  100 
feet  wide,  and  built  up  on  the  side  facing  the  river,  with  a  range  of 
massive  stone  warehouses,  which  make  an  imposing  appearance  as  the 
city  is  approached  by  water.  Front,  Main,  and  Second  streets,  parallel 
to  each  other,  and  to  the  river,  are  the  seat  of  the  principal  wholesale 
business.  The  latter  is  occupied  with  heavy  grocery,  iron,  receiving, 
and  shipping  houses.  Fourth  street,  the  fashionable  promenade, 
contains  the  finest  retail  stores.  The  streets  parallel  to  Front  and 
Main  streets  are  designated  as  Second,  Third,  Fourth,  Fifth  street, 
and  so  on ;  and  those  on  the  right  and  left  of  Market  street,  extending 
at  right  angles  with  the  river,  are  mostly  named  from  various  forest 
trees,  similar  to  the  streets  of  Philadelphia.  Large  expenditures  have 
been  made  from  time  to  time  in  grading  and  otherwise  improving  the 
streets  of  St.  Louis." 

Within  the  last  ten  years  St.  Louis  has  made  a  decided  improve- 
ment with  respect  to  its  buildings,  and  is  now  one  of  the  handsomest 
and  most  substantially  constructed  cities  in  the  country.  The  build- 
ings are  principally  of  brick,  though  marble,  iron,  and  stone  structures 
are  numerous.  Many  of  the  private  residences  will  compare  favorably 
with  anything  in  the  land.  As  the  wealth  of  the  city  has  increased, 
the  citizens,  with  a  large  public  spirit,  have  spared  no  expense  in  their 
efforts  to  adorn  and  beautify  their  noble  city. 

The  public  buildings  are  among  the  finest  in  the  Union.  The  City 
Hall  and  Court  House  is  a  new  and  splendid  structure.  It  was  com- 
pleted- in  1860,  and  cost  over  $1,000,000.  It  is  a  magnificent  edifice, 
constructed  of  limestone,  and  occupies  the  square  bounded  by  Fourth, 
Fifth,  Chestnut,  and  Market  streets.  The  front  is  ornamented  with 
porticoes,  and  from  the  centre  of  the  building  rises  a  fine  dome,  which, 
though  of  smaller  proportions,  greatly  resembles  that  of  the  capitol  at 
Washington.  The  Custom  House  is  a  beautiful  edifice,  built  of  Mis- 
souri marble.  It  is  also  used  by  the  United  States  Courts,  and  by  the 
City  Post  Office.  It  occupies  the  site  of  one  of  the  first  theatres 
erected  in  St.  Louis,  and  is  built  upon  piles  driven  more  than  20  feet 
into  the  ground.  The  United  States  Arsenal,  in  the  southeastern  part 
of  the  city,  is  a  massive  structure.  The  Merchants'  Exchange  is  one 
of  the  finest  buildings  in  St.  Louis. 

Some  of  the  churches  are  conspicuous  among  the  ornaments  of  the 
city.  There  are  over  80  church  edifices  in  St.  Louis;  the  most  im- 
posing of  which  are  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Louis;  St. 


972 


THE    GHEAT    REPUBLIC. 


COURT   HOUSE,    ST.    LOUIS. 

Georges,  Episcopal,  and  the  Church  of  the  Messiah,  Unitarian.  The 
Cathedral  tower  contains  a  fine  chime  of  bells. 

The  benevolent  and  charitable  institutions  are  numerous,  and  of  a 
high  character.  The  most  prominent  are  the  City  Hospital,  Marine 
Hospital  (3  miles  below  the  city),  the  Sisters'-  Hospital,  the  Home  for 
the  Friendless,  the  House  of  Refuge,  the  Reform  School,  and  10  Orphan 
Asylums.  The  institutions  controlled  by  the  city  are  among  the  best 
in  the  country,  and  those  dependent  on  private  contributions  are  in  a 
flourishing  condition. 

The  city  of  St.  Louis  has  an  excellent  system  of  Public  Schools, 
including  a  Normal  School,  a  High  School,  31  District  Schools,  and  3 
colored  schools.  The  annual  expenditure  for  school  purposes  is  about 
$200,000.  The  schools  are  all  provided  with  handsome  and  comfort- 
able buildings.  Besides  these,  the  city  contains  a  large  number  of 
private  schools  of  every  grade.  The  institutions  of  the  higher  class  are 
the  St.  Louis  University,  conducted  by  the  Roman  Catholics ;  the  Wash- 
ington University  ;  St.  Louis  Medical  College;  Concordia  College,  a  Ger- 
man institution;  Missouri  Medical  College;  and  the  Polytechnic  Insti- 
tute; the  latter  of  which  possesses  a  library  of  27,000  volumes.  There 
are  5  other  public  libraries  in  the  city;  the  best  of  which  is  said  to  be 
the  Mercantile  Library,  which  contains  37,000  volumes. 


MISSOURI.  973 

The  newspaper  press  of  St.  Louis  ranks  very  high.  Some  of  the 
ablest  and  most  influential  journals  in  the  country  are  published  here. 
Being  the  largest  city  in  the  West,  the  influence  of  the  St.  Louis  press 
in  this  section  is  naturally  very  great.  There  are  44  newspapers  and 
periodicals  published  here.  Nine  of  these  are  daily,  17  weekly,  3 
semi-monthly,  12  monthly,  1  bi-monthly,  and  2  quarterly.  Each  of 
the  dailies  issues  a  weekly  edition. 

Until  within  the  last  few  years,  St.  Louis  paid  but  little  attention 
to  public  parks  or  squares.  Now,  however,  it  is  very  well  provided 
in  this  respect.  Besides  14  small  squares  scattered  throughout  the 
city,  and  containing  an  aggregate  of  119  acres,  it  possesses  the  new 
Tower  Grove  Park,  276  J  acres  in  extent,  and  Shaw's  Garden,  276 
acres,  said  to  be  "  the  Wonder  of  the  West."  The  principal  burying- 
ground  is  Bellefontaine  Cemetery,  about  5  miles  from  the  Court 
House.  It  is  a  beautiful  enclosure  of  about  350  acres,  and  contains 
the  graves  of  many  of  the  old  settlers  of  St.  Louis. 

The  hotels  of  St.  Louis  are  noted  for  their  excellence.  The  prin- 
cipal are  the  Lindell,  Southern,  Barnum's,  Everett,  and  the  Planter's. 
The  Lindell  and  Southern  rank  among  the  finest  hotels  in  the  United 
States.  They  are  inferior  to  none  in  the  country  in  size,  magnificence, 
or  the  accom  modal  ions  offered  to  guests.  They  are  among  the  prin- 
cipal ornaments  of  St.  Louis. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  'an  excellent  system  of  street  railways, 
connecting  its  distant  points.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied 
with  water  from  the  Mississippi.  The  water  is  pumped  by  steam  from 
the  river,  and  forced  through  a  twenty-inch  pipe  into  a  large  reservoir, 
located  about  one  mile  west  of  the  city.  The  city  is  also  provided  with 
an  efficient  police  force,  a  steam  fire  department,  and  a  police  and  fire- 
alarm  telegraph.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870, 
the  population  was  310,864.  A  very  large  ivumber  of  the  inhabitants 
are  Germans,  or  of  German  origin,  and  German  customs  prevail  here 
to  a  great  degree. 

Eight  lines  of  railway  connect  St.  Louis  with  all  parts  of  the 
Union.  A  bridge  is  now  in  construction  from  the  city  to  the  Illinois 
shore,  which  will  give  unbroken  communication  with  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Mississippi.  The  city  is  the  principal  shipping  point  for 
almost  the  entire  State  of  Missouri,  and  conducts  an  active  trade 
along  the  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  the  Ohio,  and  their  tributaries. 
In  1860,  the  year  before  the  civil  war,  the  arrivals  of  steamboats  at 
this  port  were  4371,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of  1,120,039.  The 


974  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

civil  war  almost  destroyecTthe  river  trade,  but  since  the  return  of  peace  it 
has  rapidly  recovered,  and  has  regained  a  very  large  share  of  its  former 
prosperity.  In  1870,  the  arrivals  of  boats,  excluding  all  of  less  than 
500  tons,  was  2725.  The  receipts  of  lumber  for  the  year  were  240,- 
760,000  feet;  the  receipts  of  cattle  were  201,248  head;  the  receipts 
of  grain  were  23,908,910  bushels;  the  receipts  of  flour  were  2,922,630 
barrels ;  the  receipts  of  lead  were  234,903  pigs ;  the  receipts  of  iron 
ore  were  316,000  tons;  and  the  receipts  of  coal  were  23,931,475  tons. 

The  city  is  largely  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  contains  many  of  the 
largest  and  best  establishments  in  the  West.  Among  these  are  extensive 
iron  works,  flouring  mills  (which  in  1870  produced  1,351,733  barrels 
of  flour),  sugar  refineries,  manufactories  of  hemp,  rope  and  bagging,  and 
tobacco,  and  oil  mills.  In  1870  the  capital  invested  in  manufactures  in 
the  city  amounted  to  $41,761,688,  the  number  of  hands  employed  was 
33,551 ;  the  amount  paid  as  wages  was  $15,906,131 ;  raw  material  was 
used  to  the  value  of  $60,541,012;  and  the  total  value  of  articles  pro- 
duced in  these  establishments  was  $131,192,670.  The  taxable  property 
of  the  city  of  St.  Louis  in  1870,  amounted  to  $275,133,331 ;  real  estate 
$217,355,611,  personal  property  $57,777,720. 

The  position  of  St.  Louis  of  necessity  makes  her  a  great  city. 
Situated  about  half  way  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific,  and  in 
the  geographical  centre  of  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  best  cultivated  agri- 
cultural regions  in  the  world,  "  almost  at  the  very  focus  towards  which 
converge  the  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  the  Ohio,  and  the  Illinois 
rivers,"  there  seems  no  limit  to  the  wealth  and  importance,  which  the 
future  holds  in  store  for  the  great  metropolis  of  the  southwest. 
Within  a  circuit  of  90  miles  of  the  city,  lie  immense  deposits  of  iron, 
lead,  and  copper  ores,  and  coal  equal  to  the  wants  of  the  entire 
Mississippi  valley  for  centuries  to  come. 

"Among  the  many  sites  which  the  vast  domain  of  uninhabited 
territory  in  the  Mississippi  valley  presented  for  founding  a  city,  that 
on  which  St.  Louis  now  stands  was  selected  by  Laclede,  February 
15th,  1764,  as  one  possessing  peculiar  advantages  for  the  fur  trade, 
and  for  defence  against  the  Indians.  The  confluence  of  the  different 
rivers  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  was  a  desideratum  in  the 
estimation  of  the  trapper;  it  has  become  of  vast  importance  to  the 
place  in  establishing  it  as  a  centre  for  agricultural  and  manufacturing 
enterprises.  The  statistics  of  these  early  times  show  that  for  15 
successive  years,  ending  in  1804,  the  average  annual  value  of  the  furs 
collected  at  this  port  amounted  to  $203,750.  The  number  of  deer 


MISSOURI.  975 

skins  was  158,000;  of  beaver,  36,900;  of  otter,  8000;  of  bear,  5100; 
and  of  buffalo,  850.  The  population  at  this  period  was  between 
1500  and  2000,  one-half  of  whom  were  absent  a  great  part  of  each 
year  as  trappers  and  voyageurs.  It  will  readily  be  perceived  that 
the  elements  which  gave  the  settlement  existence  were  not  of  a 
character  adequate  to  foster  it  beyond  the  limits  of  a  frontier  village ; 
and  accordingly,  as  late  as  1820,  we  find  the  accession  of  population 
had  not  swelled  the  original  very  materially.  Up  to  this  date  the 
census  only  shows  an  advance  to  4598.  Military  expeditions  and 
establishments,  together  with  a  sparse  immigration,  confined  to  those 
peculiar  temperaments  which  delight  in  the  wild  and  adventurous, 
still  kept  up  a  progressive  improvement,  which  centering  here  for 
personal  security  as  well  as  for  trade,  still  fixed  it  as  the  seat  of  a 
commercial  and  manufacturing  metropolis,  destined  in  a  few  years  to 
become  an  object  of  interest  throughout  the  world.  On  the  llth 
of  August,  1768,  a  Spanish  officer  by  the  name  of  Bious,  with  a 
company  of  Spanish  troops,  took  possession  of  St.  Louis  and  Upper 
Louisiana,  as  it  was  termed,  in  the  name  of  his  Catholic  majesty, 
under  whose  government  it  remained  until  its  final  transfer  to  the 
United  States,  March  26,  1804.  In  1813,  the  first  brick  house  was 
erected;  in  1817,  the  first  steamboat  arrived — both  important  events, 
but  neither  of  which  became  frequent  until  several  years  after.  In 
1822,  St.  Louis  was  chartered  as  a  city,  under  the  title  given  by 
Laclede,  in  honor  of  Louis  XV.  of  France.  From  1825  to  1830, 
the  influx  of  population  from  Illinois  began  to  be  of  importance. 
From  this  State  the  commerce  of  St.  Louis  received  its  first  great 
impulse,  and  from  this  State  it  still  derives  a  large  portion  of  its 
support.  With  1829  the  keel-boat  entirely  disappeared.  The 
steamer  Yellowstone  about  this  time  ascended  to  the  Great  Falls,  and 
was  succeeded  by  the  Assinaboine  and  others.  Dry-goods  houses 
were  already  established,  and  these  sent  out  retail  branches  to  Spring- 
field, and  other  places  in  Illinois.  Extensive  warehouses  began  to  be 
erected,  some  of  which  are  still  standing,  having  survived  the  great 
fire.  They  rose  from  their  solid  limestone  foundations,  built  on  a 
scale  which  shows  that  the  impressions  of  the  present  were  vividly 
portrayed  to  the  minds  of  the  people  of  that  day."* 

Since  1830  the  city  has  grown  with  marked  rapidity.  In  that  year 
the  population  was  6694;  in  1840  it  was  16,469  ;  in  1850  it  was  77,- 
850;  in  1860  it  was  160,773,  and  in  1870,  310,864. 

*  Lippincott's  Gazetteer. 


976  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

KANSAS    CITY, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Jackson  county,  on  the 
right  or  southern  bank  of  the  Missouri,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Kansas  River,  160  miles  west-by-north  of  Jefferson  City.  The  Mis- 
souri River  separates  it  from  the  State  of  Kansas.  It  contains  the 
county  buildings,  about  10  or  12  churches,  and  7  newspaper  offices. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council. 

The  city  is  actively  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  in  commerce. 
It  conducts  a  heavy  trade  along  the  Upper  Missouri,  and  with  the 
Rocky  Mountain  settlements.  It  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  Pa- 
cific Railway  of  Missouri,  and  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Kansas 
Pacific  Railway.  It  is  also  the  western  terminus  of  the  Hannibal 
and  St.  Joseph,  and  the  North  Missouri  Railways.  These  roads,  all 
of  which  have  been  completed  within  the  last  eight  years,  have  built 
up  the  city  with  wonderful  rapidity.  The  city  was  incorporated  in 
1853;  in  1860  the  population  was  4418,  and  in  1870  it  was  32,260. 

ST.   JOSEPH, 

The  third  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Buchanan  county,  on  the 
left  or  eastern  bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  340  miles  above  Jefferson 
City,  and  496  miles  above  St.  Louis.  The  city  is  located  on  broken 
and  uneven  ground,  called  the  Black  Snake  Hills,  and  is  surrounded 
by  a  rich  and  beautiful  country.  It  is  well  built,  and  contains  the 
county  buildings,  some  10  or  II  churches,  8  newspaper  offices,  several 
large  manufactories,  several  pork  houses,  and  several  banks.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870 
the  population  was  19,565. 

St.  Joseph  is,  next  to  Kansas  City,  the  most  important  city  in  West- 
ern Missouri.  Until  within  a  few  years  past,  it  was  the  principal 
point  of  departure  for  the  trains  of  emigrants  across  the  plains.  The 
railways  have  taken  away  much  of  the  business  thus  brought  to  the 
city,  but  it  continues  to  maintain  an  active  trade  with  the  plains  and 
the  Rocky  Mountain  settlements,  and  along  the  Upper  Missouri. 
Previous  to  the  completion  of  the  Pacific  Railway  across  the  Conti- 
nent, it  was  the  point  from  which  the  United  States  Mails,  the  Pony 
Express,  and  the  Pike's  Peak  Express  were  sent  westward.  It  is 
connected  by  railway  with  Hannibal,  on  the  Mississippi,  immediately 
across  the  State,  also  with  Council  Bluffs,  and  with  all  the  principal 
towns  of  Missouri,  Kansas,  and  Nebraska.  Several  railways  are  in 


MISSOURI. 


977 


ST.    JOSEPH. 


progress  of  construction  from  St.  Joseph  to  other  points.  These  roads 
are  adding  rapidly  to  the  wealth  and  importance  of  the  city.  St. 
Joseph  was  laid  out  in  1843.  The  first  settlers  were  principally  from 
Indiana,  Kentucky,  and  Ohio. 

MISCELLANY. 
MISSOURI    PURIN7G    THE    WAR    OF    1812-15. 

Colonel  John  Shaw  is  the  author  of  the  following  reminiscences  : 
The  Upper  Mississippi  Indians,  of  all  tribes,  commenced  depredations  on  the 
frontiers  of  Missouri  and  Illinois  in  1811,  and  early  in  1812.  Several  persons 
were  killed  in  different  quarters.  About. 30  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Salt  River, 
and  fully  100  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  was  Gilbert's  Lick,  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  a  place  of  noted  resort  for  animals  and  cattle  to  lick  the 
brackish  water ;  and  where  a  man  named  Samuel  Gilbert,  from  Virginia,  had 
settled  two  or  three  years  prior  to  the  spring  of  1812.  In  that  region,  and  par- 
ticularly below  him,  were  a  number  of  other  settlers.  About  the  latter  part  of 
May,  1812,  a  party  of  from  12  to  18  Upper  Mississippi  Indians  descended  the 
river  in  canoes,  and  fell  upon  the  scattered  cabins  of  this  upper  settlement  in  the 
night,  and  killed  a  dozen  or  more  people. 

This  massacre  in  the  Gilbert's  Lick  settlement  caused  great  consternation 
along  the  Missouri  frontier,  and  the  people,  as  a  matter  of  precaution,  commenced 
fortifying.  Some  seven  or  eight  forts  or  stockades  were  erected,  to  which  a 
portion  of  the  inhabitants  resorted,  while  many  others  held  themselves  in 
readiness  to  flee  there  for  safety,  in  case  it  might  be  thought  necessary.  I 
remember  the  names  of  Stout's  Fort,  Wood's  Fort,  a  small  stockade  at  what  is 
now  Clarksville,  Fort  Howard,  and  a  fort  at  Howell's  settlement — the  latter 
nearest  to  Colonel  Daniel  Boone ;  but  the  people  bordering  immediately  on  the 
G2 


978  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Missouri  River,  being  less  exposed  to  danger,  did  not  so  early  resort  to  the  erec-' 
tion  of  stockades. 

About  this  time^  probably  a  little  after,  while  I  was  engaged  with  18  or  20  men 
in  building  a  temporary  stockade  where  Clarksville  now  stands,  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  a  party  of  Indians  came  and  killed  the  entire  family  of 
one  O'Neil,  about  3  miles  above  Clarksville,  while  O'Neil  himself  was  employed 
with  his  neighbors  in  erecting  the  stockade.  In  company  with  O'Neil  and  others, 
1  hastened  to  the  scene  of  murder,  and  found  all  killed,  scalped,  and  horribly 
mangled.  One  of  the  children,  about  a  year  and  a  half  old,  was  found  literally 
baked  in  a  large  pot-metal  bake-kettle,  or  Dutch  oven,  with  a  cover  on  ;  and  as 
there  were  no  marks  of  the  knife  or  tomahawk  on  the  body,  the  child  must  have 
been  put  in  alive  to  suffer  this  horrible  death  ;  the  oil  or  fat  in  the  bottom  of  the 
kettle  was  nearly  two  inches  deep. 

I  went  to  St.  Louis,  in  company  with  Ira  Cottle,  to  see  Governor  Clark,  and 
ascertain  whether  war  had  been  actually  declared.  This  must  have  been  some 
time  in  June,  but  the  news  of  the  declaration  of  war  against  Great  Britain  had 
not  yet  reached  there.  On  our  return,  I  was  strongly  urged  by  the  people  to  act 
as  a  spy  or  scout  on  the  frontier,  as  I  was  possessed  of  great  bodily  activity,  and 
it  was  well  known  that  I  had  seen  much  woods  experience.  I  consented  to  act 
in  this  capacity  on  the  frontiers  of  St.  Charles  county,  never  thinking  or 
troubling  myself  about  any  pecuniary  recompense,  and  was  only  anxious  to 
render  the  distressed  people  a  useful  service.  I  immediately  entered  alone  upon 
this  duty,  sometimes  mounted,  and  sometimes  on  foot,  and  carefully  watching 
the  river  above  the  settlements,  to  discover  whether  any  Indians  had  landed, 
arul  sometimes  to  follow  their  trails,  learn  their  destination,  and  report  to  the 
settlements. 

Upon  my  advice,  several  of  the  weaker  stockades  were  abandoned,  for  20  or 
30  miles  around,  and  concentrated  at  a  place  near  the  mouth  of  Cuivre  or  Copper 
River,  at  or  near  the  present  village  of  Monroe  ;  and  there  a  large  number  of  us, 
perhaps  some  60  or  70  persons,  were  some  two  or  three  weeks  employed  in  the 
erection  of  a  fort.  We  named  it  in  honor  of  the  patriotic  Governor,  Benjamin 
Howard,  and  between  20  and  30  families  were  soon  safely  lodged  in  Fort  Howard. 
The  fort  was  an  oblong  square,  north  and  south,  and  embraced  about  half  an 
acre,  with  block  houses  at  all  the  corners  except  the  southeast  one. 

As  the  war  had  now  fairly  commenced,  an  Act  of  Congress  authorized  the 
raising  of  six  companies  of  Rangers;  three  to  be  raised  on  the  Missouri  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  other  three  on  the  Illinois  side.  The  Missouri  companies 
were  commanded  by  Daniel  M.  Boone,  Nathan  Boone,  and  David  Musick.  The 
commission  of  Nathan  Boone  was  dated  in  June,  1812,  to  serve  a  year,  as  were 
doubtless  the  others. 

The  Indians,  supplied  by  their  British  employers  with  new  rifles,  seemed  bent 
on  exterminating  the  Americans — always,  however,  excepting  the  French  and 
Spaniards,  who,  from  their  Indian  intermarriages,  were  regarded  as  friends  and 
connections.  Their  constant  attacks  and  murders  led  to  offensive  measures. 

Of  the  famous  Sink  Hole  battle,  fought  on  the  24th  of  May,  1814,  near  Fort 
Howard,  I  shall  be  able  to  give  a  full  account,  as  I  was  present  and  participated 
in  it.  Captain  Peter  Craig  commanded  at  Fort  Howard  ;  he  resided  with  his 
father-in-law,  Andrew  Ramsey,  at  Cape  Girardeau,  and  did  not  exceed  30  years 
of  age.  Drakeford  Gray  was  1st  Lieutenant.  Wilson  Able,  the  2d,  and  Edward 
Spears,  3d  Lieutenant. 


MISSOURI.  979 

About  noon,  5  of  the  men  went  out  of  the  fort  to  Byrne's  deserted  house,  on 
the  bluff,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  fort,  to  bring  in  a  grindstone.  In 
consequence  of  back  water  from  the  Mississippi,  they  went  in  a  canoe  ;  and  on 
their  return  were  fired  on  by  a  party  supposed  to  be  50  Indians,  who  were  under 
shelter  of  some  brush  that  grew  along  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  near  Byrne's 
house,  and  about  15  rods  distant  from  the  canoe  at  the  time.  Three  of  the 
whites  were  killed,  and  one  mortally  wounded  ;  and  as  the  back  water,  where 
the  canoe  was,  was  only  about  knee  deep,  the  Indians  ran  out  and  tomahawked 
their  victims. 

The  people  in  the  fort  ran  out  as  quick  as  possible,  and  fired  across  the  back 
water  at  the  Indians,  but  as  they  were  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off,  it  was  of 
course  without  effect.  Captain  Craig,  with  a  party  of  some  25  men,  hastened  in 
pursuit  of  the  Indians,  and  ran  across  appoint  of  the  back  water,  a  few  inches 
deep  ;  while  another  party,  of  whom  I  was  one,  of  about  25,  ran  to  the  right  of 
the  water,  with  a  view  of  intercepting  the  Indians,  who  seemed  to  be  making 
toward  the  bluff,  or  high  plain,  west  and  northwest  of  the  fort.  The  party  with 
which  I  had  started  and  Captain  Craig's  soon  united. 

Immediately  on  the  bluff  was  the  cultivated  field  and  deserted  residence  of 
Benjamin  Allen,  the  field  about  40  rods  across,  beyond  which  was  pretty  thick 
timber.  Here  the  Indians  made  a  stand,  and  here  the  fight  commenced.  Both 
parties  treed,  and  as  the  firing  waxed  warm,  the  Indians  slowly  retired  as  the 
whites  advanced.  After  this  fighting  had  been  going  on  perhaps  some  10 
minutes,  the  whites  were  reinforced  by  Captain  David  Musick,  of  Cape  au  Gris, 
with  about  20  men.  Captain  Musick  had  been  on  a  scout  toward  the  head  of 
Cuivre  River,  and  had  returned,  though  unknown  at  Fort  Howard,  to  the  cross- 
ing of  Cuivre  River,  about  a  mile  from  the  fort,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  scene  of  conflict ;  and  had  stopped  with  his  men  to  graze  their  horses,  when, 
hearing  the  firing,  they  instantly  remounted  and  dashed  toward  the  place  of 
battle,  and  dismounting  in  the  edge  of  the  timber  on  the  bluff,  and  hitching  their 
horses,  they  rushed  through  a  part  of  the  Indian  line,  and  shortly  after  the  enemy 
fled,  a  part  bearing  to  the  right  of  the  Sink  Hole  toward  Bob's  Creek,  but  the 
most  of  them  taking  refuge  in  the  Sink  Hole,  which  was  close  by  where  the 
main  fighting  had  taken  place.  About  the  time  the  Indians  were  retreating, 
Captain  Craig  exposed  himself  about  4  feet  beyond  his  tree,  and  was  shot 
through  the  body,  and  fell  dead  ;  James  Putney  was  killed  before  Captain  Craig, 
and  perhaps  one  or  two  others.  Before  the  Indians  retired  to  the  Sink  Hole, 
the  fighting  had  become  animated;  the  loading  was  done  quick,  and  shots  rapidly 
exchanged,  and  when  one  of  our  party  was  killed  or  wounded,  it  was  announced 
aloud. 

This  Sink  Hole  was  about  60  feet  in  length,  and  about  12  to  15  feet  wide,  and 
10  or  12  feet  deep.  Near  the  bottom,  on  the  southeast  side,  was  a  shelving 
rock,  under  which  perhaps  some  50  or  60  persons  might  have  sheltered  them- 
selves. At  the  northeast  end  of  the  Sink  Hole,  the  descent  was  quite  gradual, 
the  other  end  much  more  abrupt,  and  the  southeast  side  was  nearly  perpendicular, 
and  the  other  side  about  like  the  steep  roof  of  a  house.  On  the  southeast  side, 
the  Indians,  as  a  further  protection  in  case  the  whites  should  rush  up,  dug 
under  the  shelving  rock  with  their  knives.  On  the  sides  and  in  the  bottom  of 
the  Sink  Hole  were  some  bushes,  which  also  served  as  something  of  a  screen  for 
the  Indians. 

Captain  Musick  and  his  men  took  post  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  Sink  Hole. 


980  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

and  the  others  occupied  other  positions  surrounding  the  enemy.  As  the  trees 
approached  close  to  the  Sink  Hole,  these  served  in  part  to  protect  onr  party. 
Finding  we  could  not  get  a  good  opportunity  to  dislodge  the  enemy,  as  they  were 
best  protected,  those  of  our  men  who  had  families  at  the  fort  gradually  went 
there,  not  knowing  but  a  large  body  of  Indians  might  seize  the  favorable 
occasion  to  attack  the  fort  while  the  men  were  mostly  away,  engaged  in  the 
exciting  contest. 

The  Indians  in  the  Sink  Hole  had  a  drum,  made  of  a  skin  stretched  over  a 
section  of  hollow  tree,  on  which  they  beat  quite  constantly;  and  some  Indian 
would  shake  a  rattle,  called  she-shu-qui,  probably  a  dried  bladder  with  pebbles 
within ;  and  even,  for  a  moment,  would  venture  to  thrust  his  head  in  view,  with 
his  hand  elevated,  shaking  his  rattle,  and  calling  out  peash!  peashf  which  was 
understood  to  be  a  sort  of  defiance,  or,  as  Black  Hawk,  who  was  one  of  the 
party,  says,  in  his  account  of  that  affair,  a  kind  of  bravado  to  come  and  fight 
them  in  the  Sink  Hole.  When  the  Indians  would  creep  up  and  shoot  over  the 
rim  of  the  Sink  Hole,  they  would  instantly  disappear,  and  while  they  sometimes 
fired  effectual  shots,  they  in  turn  became  occasionally  the  victims  of  onr  rifles. 
From  about  1  to  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  firing  was  inconstant,  our  men 
generally  reserving  their  fire  till  an  Indian  would  show  his  head,  and  all  of  us 
were  studying  how  he  could  more  effectually  attack  and  dislodge  the  enemy. 

At  length  Lieutenant  Spears  suggested  that  a  pair  of  cart  wheels,  axle  and 
tongue,  which  were  seen  at  Allen's  place,  near  at  hand,  be  obtained,  and  a 
moving  battery  constructed.  This  idea  was  entertained  favorably,  and  an  hour 
or  more  consumed  in  its -construction.  Some  oak  floor  puncheons,  from  7  to  8 
feet  in  length,  were  made  fast  to  the  axle  in  an  upright  position,  and  port-holes 
made  through  them.  Finally,  the  battery  was  ready  for  trial,  and  was  sufficiently 
large  to  protect  some  half  a  dozen  or  more  men.  It  was  moved  forward  slowly, 
and  seemed  to  attract  the  particular  attention  of  the  Indians,  who  had  evidently 
heard  the  knocking  and  pounding  connected  with  its  manufacture,  and  who  now 
frequently  popped  up  their  heads  to  make  momentary  discoveries  ;  and  it  was  at 
length  moved  up  to  within  less  than  10  paces  of  the  brink  of  the  Sink  Hole,  on 
the  southeast  side.  The  upright  plank  did  not  reach  the  ground  within  some  18 
inches,  our  men  calculating  to  shoot  beneath  the  lower  end  of  the  plank  at  the 
Indians;  but  the  latter,  from  their  position,  had  the  decided  advantage  of  this 
neglected  aperture  ;  for  the  Indians,  shooting  beneath  the  battery  at  an  upward 
angle,  would  get  shots  at  the  whites  before  the  latter  could  see  them.  The 
Indians  also  watched  the  port-holes,  and  directed  some  of  their  shots  to  them. 
Lieutenant  Spears  was  shot  dead,  through  the  forehead,  and  his  death  was  much 
lamented,  as  he  had  proved  himself  the  most  active  and  intrepid  officer  engaged. 
John  Patterson  was  wounded  in  the  thigh,  and  some  others  wounded  behind  the 
battery.  Having  failed  in  the  object  for  which  it  was  designed,  the  battery  was 
abandoned  after  sundown. 

Our  hope  all  along  had  been,  that  the  Indians  would  emerge  from  their  covert, 
and  attempt  to  retreat  to  where  we  supposed  their  canoes  were  left,  some  3  or  4 
miles  distant,  in  which  case  we  were  firmly  determined  to  rush  upon  them,  and 
endeavor  to  cut  them  totally  off.  The  men  generally  evinced  the  greatest 
bravery  during  the  whole  engagement.  Night  now  coming  on,  we  heard  the 
reports  of  half  a  dozen  or  so  of  guns  in  the  direction  of  the  fort,  by  a  few  Indians 
who  rushed  out  from  the  woods  skirting  Bob's  Creek,  not  more  than  40  rods 
from  the  north  end  of  the  fort.  This  movement  on  the  part  of  the  few  Indians 


MISSOURI.  981 

who  had  escaped  when  the  others  took  refuge  in  the  Sink  Hole,  was  evidently 
designed  to  divert  the  attention  of  the  whites,  and  alarm  them  for  the  safety  of 
the  fort,  and  thus  effectually  relieve  the  Indians  in  the  Sink  Hole.  This  was  the 
result,  for  Captain  Musick  and  men  retired  to  the  fort,  carrying  the  dead  and 
wounded,  and  made  every  preparation  to  repel  a  night  attack.  As  the  Mississippi 
was  quite  high,  with  much  back  water  over  the  low  grounds,  the  approach  of  the 
enemy  was  thus  facilitated,  and  it  was  feared  a  large  Indian  force  was  at  hand. 
The  people  were  always  more  apprehensive  of  danger  at  a  time  when  the  river 
was  swollen,  than  when  at  its  ordinary  stage. 

The  men  in  the  fort  were  mostly  up  all  night,  ready  for  resistance,  if  necessary. 
There  was  no  physician  at  the  fort,  and  much  effort  was  made  to  set  some  broken 
bones.  There  was  a  well  in  the  fort,  and  provisions  and  ammunition  sufficient 
to  sustain  a  pretty  formidable  attack.  The  women  were  greatly  alarmed,  press- 
ing their  infants  to  their  bosoms,  fearing  they  might  not  be  permitted  to  behold 
another  morning's  light ;  but  the  night  passed  away  without  seeing  or  hearing  an 
Indian.  The  next  morning  a  party  went  to  the  Sink  Hole,  and  found  the  Indians 
gone,  who  had  carried  off  all  their  dead  and  wounded,  except  5  dead  bodies  left 
on  the  northwest  bank  of  the  Sink  Hole  ;  and  by  the  signs  of  blood  within  the 
Sink  Hole,  it  was  judged  that  well  nigh  30  of  the  enemy  must  have  been  killed 
and  wounded.  Lieutenant  Drakeford  Gray's  report  of  the  affair,  made  8  of  our 
party  killed,  one  missing,  and  5  wounded — making  a  total  of  14  ;  I  had  thought 
the  number  was  nearer  20.  Our  dead  were  buried  near  the  fort,  when  Captain 
Musick  and  his  men  went  over  to  Cape  au  Gris,  where  they  belonged,  and  of 
which  garrison  Captain  Musick  had  the  command.  We  that  day  sent  out  scouts, 
while  I  proceeded  to  St.  Charles  to  procure  medical  and  surgical  assistance,  and 
sent  forward  Drs.  Hubbard  and  Wilson. 


ARKANSAS. 

Area, 52,198  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 435,450 

(Whites,  324,191 ;  Negroes,  111,259) 

Population  in  1870, 484,471 

THE  State  of  Arkansas  is  situated  between  33°  and  36°  30'  N. 
latitude;  and  between  89°  45'  and  94°  40' W.  longitude.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Missouri,  on  the  east  by  Mississippi  and 
Tennessee,  on  the  south  by  Louisiana  and  Texas,  and  on  the  west  by 
Texas  and  the  Indian  Territory.  Its  extreme  length,  from  north  to 
south,  is  240  miles,  and  its  greatest  width,  from  east  to  west,  about 
225  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  eastern  part  of  the  State,  for  100  miles  back  from  the  Missis- 
sippi, is  flat  and  swampy.  The  north-western  part  is  occupied  by  the 
Ozark  Mountains,  a  low  range  extending  into  the  State  from  Missouri, 
and  never  rising  above  a  height  of  2000  feet.  The  Black  Hills  lie 
in  the  north,  and  the  Washita  Hills  in  the  west  are  the  remaining 
elevations.  The  greater  part  of  the  State  is  rolling. 

The  Mississippi  River  forms  the  eastern  boundary,  and  receives  the 
waters  of  the  Arkansas  and  St.  Francis  rivers.  The  principal  towns 
on  its  banks  are  Oceola,  Mound  City,  Helena,  and  Napoleon.  The 
Arkansas  River  enters  the  State  at  Fort  Smith  on  the  western  boundary, 
and  flows  southwest  across  it  into  the  Mississippi  at  Napoleon.  It 
divides  the  State, into  two  unequal  parts,  and  receives  the  waters  of 
the  White  River  on  the  north,  and  some  small  streams  from  both 
sides.  The  principal  towns  on  its  banks  are  Van  Buren,  Little  Rock, 
and  Napoleon. 
982 


ARKANSAS.  983 

The  Red  River  flows  through  the  southwest  part  of  the  State,  and  the 
Washita  (already  described),  with  its  branches,  the  Saline  and  Boeuf, 
drain  the  south  central  counties.  The  White  River  is  the  principal 
branch  of  the  Arkansas,  and  empties  into  it  a  few  miles  above  the 
junction  of  the  latter  stream  with  the  Mississippi.  It  rises  in  a  number 
of  branches  in  Southern  Missouri,  and  flows  south  through  the  eastern 
part  of  Arkansas.  It  now  flows  into  the  Mississippi  by  a  new  channel 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas,  being  in  reality  a  tributary  of  both 
streams.  Its  entire  length  is  about  800  miles,  for  500  of  which  it  is 
navigable  for  steamers.  The  St.  Francis  River  rises  in.  Southeast 
Missouri,  and  flows  into  the  Mississippi  just  above  Helena.  It  is  400 
miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for  200  miles,  beyond  the  limits  of  Ar- 
kansas. The  Red  River  is  navigable  throughout  its  course  in  this 
State.  The  Washita  is  navigable  to  Camden,  and  its  tributaries,  the 
Saline  and  Boeuf,  are  each  navigable  for  a  considerable  distance. 

MINERALS. 

The  principal  minerals  of  Arkansas  are  coal,  iron,  lead,  zinc,  maii- 
ganese,  gypsum,  marble,  and  salt.  The  coal  fields  are  very  extensive, 
and  extend  along  both  sides  of  the  Arkansas,  from  about  40  miles 
above  Little  Rock  to  beyond  Fort  Smith.  The  deposits  of  manganese 
are  enormous,  and  it  contains,  according  to  Professor  De  Bow,  more 
zinc  than  any  other  State  except  New  Jersey.  The  lead  ore  is  very 
rich  in  silver,  and  gold  has  been  discovered  in  White  county.  There 
is  a  large  quarry  of  oil  stone  near  the  Hot  Springs,  which  surpasses 
any  similar  formation  in  the  world,  and  is  inexhaustible.  In  Pike 
county,  on  the  Little  Missouri  River,  there  is  a  mountain  of  pure 
white  alabaster.  The  Hot  Springs,  about  60  miles  southwest  of  Little 
Rock,  are  famous  for  their  medicinal  qualities.  They  are  especially 
beneficial  in  rheumatic  and  syphilitic  cases.  They  are  about  100  in 
number,  and  have  an  average  temperature  of  about  145  degrees. 

CLIMATE. 

In  the  northern  and  western  parts  of  the  State  the  climate  is  severe, 
resembling  that  of  Iowa  and  Wisconsin.  The  southern  and  eastern 
sections  have  a  climate  like  Louisiana  and  Mississippi. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

As  a  general  rule  the  soil  is  good.  The  best  lands  are  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  State,  and  need  a  better  system  of  drainage. 


984  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

In  1869,  there  were  over  2,003,000  acres  of  improved  land  in  the 
State.  In  the  same  year  the  principal  returns  were : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 1,170,000 

u          Indian  corn,        25,750,000 

"          potatoes, 346,000 

oats,   . 500,000 

"         peas  and  beans, 21,489 

Tons  of  hay, ' 10,000 

oST umber  of  horses, 199,600 

"         mules  and  asses,       ; 79.800 

"          milch  cows, 190,500 

sheep,     .    '. 450,030 

swine, 1,500,630 

young  cattle, 450,005 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $20,096,977 

In  1870,  the  cotton  crop  amounted  to  375,000  bales. 

COMMERCE  AND  MANUFACTURES. 

Arkansas  has  no  foreign  commerce,  but  possesses  a  profitable  river 
trade  with  Memphis  and  New  Orleans. 

It  has  no  manufactures  of  importance,  and  will,  probably,  never 
attain  the  position  of  a  manufacturing  State. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

As  late  as  1868,  the  State  was  very  backward  in  internal  improve- 
ments. In  that  year  it  contained  but  191  miles  of  completed  rail- 
roads. The  cost  of  construction  was  $4,400,000.  The  great  abund- 
ance of  water  transportation  in  the  State  enables  it  to  dispense  with 
railroads  to  a  very  great  degree.  In  1872,  there  were  258  miles  of 
railway  in  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  there  were  in  Arkansas,  3  colleges,  with  335  students; 
204  academies  and  private  schools,  with  about  9000  pupils,  and  1744 
public  schools,  with  72,045  pupils.  The  war  completely  convulsed 
the  State,  and  closed  all  the  schools.  By  the  return  of  peace  a  large 
number  of  the  school-houses  had  been  destroyed,  or  rendered  unfit  for 
occupancy,  and  the  educational  funds  had  been  scattered.  A  more 
melancholy  condition  of  affairs  cannot  be  imagined. 

The  new  Constitution  makes  provision  for  a  system  of  Public  Edu- 


ARKANSAS.  985 

cation,  which  is  placed  under  the  supervision  of  a  Superintendent 
of  Public  Schools.  Free  schools  are  to  be  established  and  maintained 
by  the  State,  arid  a  permanent  school  fund  set  apart.  Attendance  at 
school  is  made  compulsory  upon  all  children  between  the  ages  of  five 
and  eighteen  years.  Measures  are  being  taken  for  the  establishment 
of  a  State  University,  with  a  Department  of  Agriculture. 

In  1870,  there  were  1181  libraries  in  the  State,  containing  135,564 
volumes.  In  the  same  year,  56  weekly  newspapers,  with  an  aggregate 
annual  circulation  of  1,824,860  copies,  were  published  in  the  State. 

PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS. 

The  public  institutions  of  Arkansas  were  greatly  injured  by  the  war. 

The  Penitentiary  j  at  Little  Rock,  was  used  as  a  military  prison  until 
the  readmission  of  the  State  into  the  Union,  and  was  very  greatly  in- 
jured. In  1870,  346  prisoners  were  confined  here. 

The  Institution  for  the  Blind  was  established  in  1859.  It  maintained 
a  feeble  existence,  owing  to  the  want  of  funds,  until  1863,  when  it  was 
closed,  and  the  property  sold. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

• 

In  1870,  there  were  1141  churches  in  Arkansas.  The  value  of 
church  property  was  $854,975. 

FINANCES. 

In  1868,  the  debt  of  the  State  amounted  to  $4,577,081.  We  have 
no  accurate  returns  from  the  State  Treasury. 

In  1868,  there  were  2  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $200,000, 
doing  business  in  the  State. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  present  Constitution  of  Arkansas  was  adopted  in  1868.  By 
its  terms,  every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  every  male 
foreigner  who  has  lawfully  declared  his  intention  to  become  a  citizen, 
who  is  21  years  old  and  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  in  the 
county  six  months,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections.  Persons  in  the 
military  and  naval  service  of  the  United  States,  convicts,  idiots, 
lunatics,  and  persons  who  participated  in  the  rebellion,  are  excluded 
from  the  ballot. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,   Lieutenant-Go vernor, 


986  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Secretary  of  State,  Auditor,  Treasurer,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a 
Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  24  members),  and  a  House  of 
Representatives  (of  82  members),  all  elected  by  the  people.  The 
State  officers  and  Senators  are  chosen  for  four  years,  and  the  Repre- 
sentatives for  two  years.  The  Legislature  meets  biennially  in  January. 

The  courts  of  the  State  are  the  Supreme  Court,  Circuit  Courts,  and 
County  Courts.  The  judges  in  this  State  are  appointed  by  the  Gov- 
ernor and  confirmed  by  the  Senate.  The  Supreme  Court  is  composed 
of  a  Chief  Justice  and  four  Associate  Justices,  appointed  for  eight 
years. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Little  Rock. 

The  State  is  divided  into  55  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Arkansas  was  first  discovered  by  De  Soto,  in  1541.  He  reached 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mississippi  nearly  opposite  the  present  town 
of  Helena,  and  after  halting  there  20  days  to  build  boats,  crossed  the 
river,  and  marched  200  miles  west  of  the  Mississippi.  He  sought  gold, 
but  failed  to  find  it,  and  wandering  south  to  the  Washita,  descended 
it  in  1542  to  its  mouth,  and  passed  down  the  Red  River  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi, where  he  sickened  and  died,  and  was  bftried  by  his  followers 
in  the  great  river  he  had  discovered. 

Arkansas  was  next  visited  by  Father  Marquette,  during  his  voyage 
down  the  Mississippi,  in  1673.  In  the  next  century,  trading-posts 
were  erected  in  the  lower  part  of  the  present  State. 

Arkansas  was  included  in  the  purchase  of  1803,  and  after  the  admis- 
sion of  Louisiana  into  the  Union  formed  a  part  of  Missouri  Territory. 
In  1819,  it  was  erected  into  a  separate  Territory,  with  its  present 
name,  and  in  1820,  the  first  Legislature  met  at  Arkansas  Post.  In 
the  same  year  the  seat  of  Government  was  removed  to  Little  Rock. 
The  population  increased  rapidly,  and  in  1830  numbered  30,388 
souls.  On  the  15th  of  June,  1836,  Arkansas  was  admitted  into  the 
Union  as  a  State.  In  1840,  four  years  later,  the  population  was 
97,574,  of  which  19,935  were  slaves. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  civil  war,  a  State  Convention  was  held 
at  Little  Rock.  This  body,  on  the  4th  of  March,  1861,  adopted  an 
ordinance  of  secession,  and  the  State  soon  after  became  a  member  of 
the  Southern  Confederacy.  It  was  occupied  by  both  armies  during 
almost  the  entire  period  of  the  war.  Several  severe  battles  were  fought 
on  its  soil,  and  the  State  was  literally  torn  to  pieces. 


ARKANSAS. 


98T 


LITTLE  ROCK. 

In  1864,  an  attempt  was  made  by  the  Union  men  of  Arkansas  to 
reorganize  the  State  Government,  but  Congress  refused  to  recognize 
it  as  a  legitimate  government,  and  organized  the  State  as  the  Fourth 
Military  District.  In  1868,  a  new  Constitution  was  adopted,  and  on 
the  22d  of  June,  of  that  year,  Arkansas  was  readmitted  into  the 
Union. 

CITIES    AND    TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  places  in  the  State  are,  Helena, 
Napoleon,  and  Carnden. 

LITTLE  ROCK, 

In  Pulaski  county,  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  the 
right  or  southern  bank  of  the  Arkansas  River,  about  300  miles  from 
its  mouth,  155  miles  west-by-south  of  Memphis,  905  miles  by  water 
from  New  Orleans,  and  1086  miles  west  of  Washington  City.  Lati- 
tude 34°  40'  N.;  longitude  83°  10'  W. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  rocky  bluff,  about  50  feet  high.  This  is  the 
first  bluff  that  occurs  in  ascending  the  river,  and  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  stream  and  the  surrounding  country.  Little  Rock  is  built 
principally  of  wood,  and  is  in  some  respects  a  handsome  city.  The 
principal  buildings  are  the  State  House,  a  handsome  rough-cast  brick 
edifice ;  the  State  Penitentiary,  which  has  been  several  times  burned 
down  by  the  convicts ;  and  the  United  States  Arsenal.  Some  of  the 


988 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


.      HELENA. 

residences  are  elegant,  and  have  handsome  grounds.  The  city  con- 
tains 6  churches,  several  good  schools  and  seminaries,  and  2  news- 
paper offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was  12,380. 

Little  Rock  lies  in  close  proximity  to  a  fertile  cotton  region.  It  is 
connected  with  Memphis,  Tennessee,  by  railway,  and  large  quantities 
of  cotton  are  sent  overland  to  that  market.  Being  the  principal 
town  on  the  Arkansas  River,  it  possesses  a  considerable  river  trade, 
and  is  connected  by  steamers  with  Memphis,  New  Orleans,  and  the 
important  towns  on  the  Mississippi.  Slate  of  a  fine  quality,  good 
clay,  and  granite,  which  resembles  the  Quincy  granite  in  appearance, 
but  is  not  so  hard,  are  found  in  the  vicinity. 

The  city  was  founded  in  1820,  and  owes  its  name  to  the  rock  on 
which  it  is  built.  It  was  seized  by  the  State  troops  at  the  outset  of 
the  civil  war,  but  was  captured  by  the  United  States  forces  in  1862. 

HELENA, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Phillips  county,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  80  miles  below  Memphis.  It 
is  a  well-built  town,  and  contains  the  county  buildings,  several 
churches  and  schools,  and  a  newspaper  office.  It  is  the  most  import- 
ant commercial  town  in  the  State.  It  is  connected  with  Memphis 
and  Little  Rock  by  regular  lines  of  steamers,  and  conducts  an  import- 
ant trade  along  the  St.  Francis,  White,  and  Arkansas  rivers.  In  the 
rear  of  Helena  is  an  extensive  and  fertile  cotton  country,  and  large 
quantities  of  this  staple  are  sent  here  for  shipment  to  Memphis  and 
New  Orleans.  Helena  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  fire  in  the 
summer  of  1852.  In  1862,  it  was  captured  by  the  United  States 
forces,  and  held  by  them  until  the  close  of  the  war.  In  1870,  the 
population  was  2249. 


KANSAS. 

Area, 81,318  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 107,206 

Population  in  1870,       364,377 

THE  State  of  Kansas  is  situated  between  37°  and  42°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  about  94°  and  102°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Nebraska,  on  the  east  by  Missouri,  on  the  south  by  the 
Indian  Territory,  and  on  the  west  by  Colorado.  It  is  about  400 
miles  long,  from  east  to  west,  and  230  miles  wide,  from  north  to  south. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

"The  general  surface  of  Kansas  is  a  gently  undulating  prairie,  hav- 
ing no  marked  features  like  those  of  other  prairie  States,  except,  per- 
haps, the  diversity  presented  by  a  more  rolling  surface.  The  division 
of  land  is  of  two  classes.  First  to  mention  is  the  timber  and  rich 
alluvial  bottom  lands,  bordering  rivers  and  creeks,  the  estimated  area 
of  which  is  ten  million  acres,  being  fully  five  times  the  amount  of  all 
improved  lands  in  the  State  at  the  present  time.  To  the  second  belongs 
the  upland  or  rolling  prairie,  the  soil  of  which  averages  from  2  to  3 
feet  in  depth,  with  a  subsoil  of  fertilizing  qualities  which  will,  by 
careful  cultivation,  prove  inexhaustible.  This  class  of  land  is  con- 
sidered, by  far,  preferable  for  the  raising  of  grains  and  fruits,  while 
the  bottom  land  is  selected  for  corn,  hemp,  vegetables,  and  grasses. 
But  such  is  the  uniform  character  of  the  general  surface  of  Kansas, 
that  nearly  every  quarter  section  within  its  limits  is  capable  of  culti- 
vation. Timber  is  confined  mainly  to  the  borders  of  rivers  and  creeks, 
and  is  not  superabundant ;  yet  its  scarcity  is  compensated  for  in  a  great 

989 


990  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

•* 

measure  by  the  very  general  distribution  of  rock  throughout  the  State, 
which  is  easy  of  access,  and  furnishes  the  best  of  building  and  fencing 
material. 

"  No  mountain  ranges,  swamps,  sloughs,  or  lakes  exist  in  the  State, 
except  in  some  instances  where  rivers  have  changed  their  beds,  leaving 
small  lakes.  Water-courses  are  well  distributed  over  the  State.  Their 
usual  course  is  south  of  east.  Among  the  most  important  streams 
may  be  mentioned  the  Arkansas  and  Neosho  on  the  south,  the  Kansas 
River  and  its  tributaries  in  the  northern  part,  and  the  Missouri  River 
forming  the  eastern  boundary.  The  descent  of  the  Kansas  River  may 
be  regarded  as  showing  the  rapidity  of  the  water-courses  of  the  State. 
From  its  mouth,  west  100  miles,  the  fall  is  a  little  over  2  feet  to  the 
mile ;  for  the  second  and  third  hundred  miles,  about  6  feet  to  the 
mile;  and  for  the  last  one  hundred  miles,  about  7  feet  to  the  rnile; 
making  a  total  fall  of  over  2000  feet  in  400  miles.  Water-powers 
are  not  abundant,  but  several  are  being  improved  on  the  Neosho  and 
other  smaller  streams."  * 

A  paper,  recently  published  under  the  authority  of  the  State,  thus 
describes  the  rivers  of  Kansas : 

"The  Kansas  River  is  the  largest  in  the  State,  and  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  streams  of  water  in  the  West.  It  is  formed  by  the  junction 
of  the  Republican  and  Smoky  Hill,  near  Junction  City,  in  the  central 
part  of  the  State,  and  flows  in  an  easterly  direction  for  a  distance  of 
150  miles,  through  a  rich  fertile  valley,  from  3  to  7  miles  in  width, 
and  empties  into  the  Missouri  River  at  Wyandotte  City,  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  The  Republican  River  comes 
down  from  Colorado,  through  the  northwestern  portion  of  the  State, 
coursing  in  a  southeasterly  direction  through  a  rich,  wild  region  of 
country,  for  a  distance  of  over  300  miles.  The  Smoky  Hill  derives 
its  source  from  the  confluence  of  several  smaller  streams  in  the  eastern 
part  of  Colorado,  and  flows  to  the  east  through  the  central  part  of  the 
State,  to  its  junction  with  the  Republican.  Along  the  rich  valley  of 
this  river,  a  daily  line  of  stage-coaches  pass  from  the  western  terminus 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad  to  Denver  City.  The  Neosho  River  rises 
near  the  centre  of  the  State,  and  flows  to  the  southeast  through  a  rich 
agricultural  and  stock-growing  country,  emptying  into  Grand  River, 
near  the  southeast  corner  of  Kansas.  The  Neosho  Valley  is  from  3 
to  7  miles  in  width,  and  contains  some  of  the  most  beautiful,  rich,  and 

*  Report  of  the  Surveyor-General  of  Kansas. 


KANSAS.  991 

desirable   lands   in  the   State.     The  Arkansas  River,  collecting  the 
snows  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  flows  in  an  easterly  direction  through 
the  southwestern  part  of  the  State,  for  a  distance  of  300  miles.     The 
Great  Nemaha  rises  in  the  north -central  part  of  the  State,  and  flows 
east,  emptying  into  the  Missouri  River  at  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
State.     There  is  a  sufficiency  of  timber  on  its  banks  for  all  practical 
purposes  in  the  country  through  which  it  passes.     The  Osage  courses 
through  a  fine  region  of  country  in  southern  Kansas,  about  midway 
between  the  valleys  of  the  Kansas  and  Neosho.     The  Potawatomie 
and  other  smaller  streams  flow  into  the  Osage.     The  valleys  of  these 
rivers  contain  some  of  the  most  valuable  farms  in  the  State.     The  Big 
Blue,  from  Nebraska  Territory,  flows  to  the  south,  through  the  north - 
omtral  part  of  the  State,  emptying  into  the  Kansas  River  at  the  city 
of  Manhattan.     The  Solomon  rises  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the 
State,  flows  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  and  empties  into  the  Smoky 
Hill,  about   30  miles  west  from    Junction  City.      The  source   and 
general  direction  of  the  Verdigris,  Cottonwood,  Grasshopper,  Grand, 
Saline,  and  all  other   Kansas   rivers,  may   be  seen  by  referring  to 
Ream's  Map  of  Kansas.     In  addition  to  the  above  is  the  Missouri 
River,  which  washes  the  eastern  shore  of  the  State  for  a  distance  of 
over  100  miles.     This  river,  navigable  at  all  times,  is  a  source  of 
great  value  to  the   State,  and  especially  to  Leavenworth,  Atchison, 
Wyandotte,  White  Cloud,  Doniphan,  and  other  cities  that  stand  upon 
its  banks.     It  is  impossible  to  draw  a  line  of  distinction  between  dif- 
ferent localities,  the  whole  State  being  supplied  with  an  abundance  of 
pure,  clear  cold  water.     Besides  the  clear  running  streams  and  cool, 
refreshing  springs  in  the  different  localities,  the  best  quality  of  water  is 
also  obtained  by  digging  wells  on  the  high  prairies — ranging  from  10 
to  30  feet  in  depth." 

MINERALS. 

White  and  blue  limestone  are  found  in  large  quantities.  Coal 
abounds,  and  is  of  an  excellent  quality.  Sandstone,  suitable  for  build- 
ing, is  quarried  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  marble,  capable  of  receiv- 
ing a  fine  polish,  is  found.  Salt  springs  are  numerous. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  mild.  The  winters  are  short,  and  but  little  snow 
falls.  The  spring  sets  in  about  the  first  of  March,  and  soon  after 
the  prairies  begin  to  glitter  with  a  profusion  of  beautiful  wild  flowers- 


992  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  heat  of  the  summer  is  tempered  by  a  cool  and  refreshing  breeze 
which  sweeps  over  the  State. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  is  deep,  rich,  and  fertile.  In  the  valleys  it  is  often  four  or 
five  feet  deep,  and  rests  upon  a  subsoil  of  clay.  On  the  prairies  it  is 
about  3  feet  deep,  and  rests  upon  a  subsoil  composed  of  clay  and  sand. 

In  1870,  there  were  about  1,000,000  acres  of  improved  land  in 
Kansas.  In  the  same  year  the  returns  were  as  follows : 

Bushels  of  wheat,. 2,800,000 

Indian  corn, 24,500,000 

oats, 1,500,000 

Irish  potatoes, 1,500,000 

rye, ;  .  .  20,000 

barley,  25,000 

Number  of  horses, 35,301 

asses  and  mules, 1,990 

milch  cows, 41,310 

sheep, 31,820 

swine 161,310 

young  cattle, 71,863 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $6,631,450 

Tons  of  hay, ....  250,000 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

Kansas  is  advancing  rapidly  in  the  work  of  internal  improvements. 
At  the  close  of  the  year  1872,  there  were  1760  miles  of  completed 
railroads  within  the  State.  The  eastern  division  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad  has  been  completed  from  Wyandotte  and  Leaven  worth,  on 
the  Missouri  River,  to  Sheridan,  near  the  border  of  Colorado,  a 
distance  of  405  miles,  and  has  been  extended  to  Denver  City, 
Colorado.  The  central  branch  of  the  same  road  extends  from 
Atchison,  on  the  Missouri,  to  Waterville,  in  Marshall  county,  a 
distance  of  100  miles.  A  road  unites  Wyandotte  and  Leaven  worth, 
(25  miles  apart)  extending  along  the  bank  of  the  Missouri.  Roads 
are  in  progress  in  other  parts  of  the  State,  and  are  being  pushed  for- 
ward with  energy  and  rapidity. 

EDUCATION. 

Although  so  young  a  State,  Kansas,  in  proportion  to  her  population 
and  means,  is  not  far  behind  her  older  sisters  in  her  system  of  public 
education. 


KANSAS.  993 

A  State  University  is  in  operation  at  Lawrence,  and  is  gradually 
becoming  an  excellent  institution.  It  is  endowed  with  a  fund  of 
$10,000,  and  46,080  acres  of  land,  besides  the  grounds  occupied  by  it. 

The  State  also  possesses  and  Agriculturaf  College,  to  which  a 
military  department  has  been  added,  and  a  flourishing  normal  school, 
at  the  town  of  Emporia. 

The  educational  system  is  under  the  control  of  a  Superintendent 
of  Public  Schools,  the  counties  have  each  a  separate  Superintendent, 
and  the  school  dictricts  are  each  in  charge  of  a  Board  of  Trustees. 

There  is  a  permanent  school  fund,  which  is  to  be  increased  by  sales 
of  public  lands,  and  taxes  are  levied  for  the  support  of  the  schools. 

In  1870,  there  were  2068  school  districts  in  the  'State.  The 
number  of  pupils  was  63,218,  and  the  average  daily  attendance, 
39,401. 

A  number  of  fine  private  schools  are  in  operation  in  Kansas,  but 
we  have  no  returns  from  them. 

There  are  about  97  newspapers  and  magazines  published  in  the  State. 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

The  Penitentiary  is  located  near  Leavenworth,  and  when  completed 
will  be  one  of  the  finest  institutions  of  its  kind  in  the  West.  In 
November,  1870,  it  contained  209  convicts. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  at  Olathe.  It  is  in  a 
flourishing  condition,  and  contains  about  41  pupils. 

The  Insane  Asylum  is  at  Ossawatomie.  It  is  not  provided  with 
sufficient  accommodations,  but  is  conducted  upon  an  excellent  and 
successful  plan.  In  1870,  the  number  of  inmates  was  41. 

The  Institution  for  the  Blind,  at  Wyandotte,  contained  23  pupils  in 
1868,  the  year  of  its  opening. 

EELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  301  churches  in  Kansas.  The  value  of  church 
property  was  about  $1,722,700. 

FINANCES. 

In  1870,  the  total  State  debt  was  $1,593,306.  The  receipts  of  the 
Treasury,  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  November  30th,  1870,  were 
$1,426,  696,  and  the  expenditures,  $1,367,611. 

In  the  same  year  there  were  5  National  banks,  with  a  capital  of 
$400,000,  doing  business  in  the  State. 
63 


994  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  every  foreigner  who 
has  lawfully  declared  -  his  intention  to  become  a  citizen,  who  is  21 
years  old,  and  has  resided  in  the  State  six  months,  and  in  the  town- 
ship thirty  days,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections.  Idiots,  insane 
persons,  convicts,  persons  in  the  military  or  naval  service  of  the 
Union,  and  participants  in  the  Rebellion,  are  excluded  from  the 

ballot. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieu  tenant-Governor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Auditor,  Treasurer,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a 
Legislature  consisting  of  a  Senate  and  House  of.  Representatives,  all 
chosen  by  the  people.  The  State  officers  and  Senators  are  elected  for 
two  years,  and  the  Representatives  for  one  year.  The  general  election 
is  held  in  November,  and  the  Legislature  meets  annually  in  January. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  District  Courts, 
and  County  Courts.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice 
and  two  Associate  Justices.  All  judges  are  elected  by  the  people,  those 
of  the  Supreme  Court  for  six  years,  and  those  of  the  District  Courts 
for  four  years. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Topeka. 

The  State  is  divided  into  75  organized  counties.  More  will  be 
added  when  the  western  part  is  laid  off. 

HISTORY. 

Kansas  originally  formed  a  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase.  It  was 
first  visited  by  M.  Dutisne,  a  French  officer,  in  1719.  In  1804,  Lewis 
and  Clark  passed  up  the  Missouri  River  on  their  exploring  expedition, 
and,  in  1827,  Fort  Leaven  worth,  on  the  Missouri  River,  was  built 
by  the  United  States.  Kansas  was  occupied  mostly  by  Indians  as 
late  as  1854.  By  the  terms  of  the  Missouri  Compromise,  slavery 
was  forever  excluded  from  this  region,  as  it  lay  north  of  36°  30'  N. 
latitude. 

Until  the  year  1850,  the  vast  region  lying  between  the  western  and 
northwestern  borders  of  Missouri  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  was 
called  by  the  general  and  somewhat  indefinite  name  of  "the  Platte 
Country;  "the  name  being  derived  from  the  Platte  River.  It  was 
known  to  be  a  region  of  great  fertility.  Across  it  swept  the  grand 
trails  of  the  overland  route  to  the  Pacific  and  to  Utah.  The  people 
of  the  New  England  States  were  particularly  anxious  that  the  Indian 


KANSAS.  S95 

reservations  which  covered  the  eastern  part  should  be  bought  up  by 
the  Government,  and  the  country  thrown  open  to  emigration.  Petitions 
to  this  effect  were  presented  to  the  Thirty-Second  Congress,  but  no 
action  was  taken  upon  them  until  December,  1852,  when  Mr.  Hall, 
of  Missouri,  introduced  a  bill  into  the  House  to  organize  the  "  Terri- 
tory of  Platte."  It  was  referred  to  the  Territorial  Committee,  which, 
in  February,  1853,  reported  a  bill  organizing  the  "  Territory  of 
Nebraska."  The  southern  delegates  at  once  endeavored  to  open  the 
proposed  Territory  to  slavery,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  that  insti- 
tution was  forbidden  by  the  Missouri  Compromise.  The  free  States 
opposed  this  effort,  and  nothing  definite  was  accomplished  until 
January,  1854,  when  Senator  Douglas,  of  Illinois,  introduced  a  bill 
dividing  the  district  into  two  Territories,  to  be  called  Kansas  and 
Nebraska.  He  also  proposed  in  this  bill  to  repeal  the  Missouri  Com- 
promise restriction,  and  leave  the  question  of  slavery  or  free  labor  to 
be  decided  by  the  people  of  the  Territories  themselves.  This  fatal 
measure  divided  the  people  of  the  States  into  two  parties.  Those  in 
favor  of  slavery  supported  the  bill,  but  the  friends  of  free  labor 
opposed  it. 

The  bill. was  passed  by  Congress,  and  approved  by  the  President, 
in  1854.  The  Indian  reservations  were  bought  up,  and  the  Territories 
thrown  open  to  emigration. 

Kansas  being  a  more  fertile  Territory  than  Nebraska,  naturally 
attracted  the  greater  number  of  settlers.  The  South  made  no  attempt 
to  settle  it,  but  the  New  England  States  sent  out  emigrants  in  great 
numbers.  The  people  living  on  the  border  of  Missouri  had  long  since 
resolved  that  Kansas  should  be  a  slave-holding  State,  and  now  set  to 
work  to  prevent  free  soil  settlers  from  entering  it.  Nevertheless, 
the  Free  State  men  persevered,  and  in  a  few  months  after  the  Terri- 
tory was  organized  the  town  of  Lawrence  was  founded  by  100 
families  from  New  England.  Other  settlements  were  established 
soon  after,  and  the  population  increased  very  fast. 

A.  H.  Reeder  was  appointed  Governor  by  President  Pierce.  He 
endeavored  to  execute  the  laws  faithfully,  but  was  no  match  for  the 
determined  and  fierce  pro-slavery  leaders.  He  ordered  an  election 
for  members  of  a  Territorial  Legislature  to  be  held  on  the  30th  of 
March,  1855,  but  on  that  day  Kansas  was  invaded  by  large  numbers 
of  Missourians,  who  succeeded  in  electing  a  pro-slavery  Legislature. 

Six  districts  at  once  forwarded  to  the  Governor  protests  against 
the  elections,  showing  beyond  all  reasonable  doubt  that  they  had 


996  THE    GHEAT    REPUBLIC. 

been  controlled  by  citizens  of  Missouri.  The  Governor,  who  was 
anxious  to  do  justice  to  all  parties,  ordered  a  new  election  in  these 
districts,  each  of  which,  with  the  exception  of  Leavenworth,  returned 
a  Free  Soil  delegate.  The  new  delegates,  however,  were  refused  their 
seats  upon  the  assembling  of  the  Legislature,  and  the  successful  candi- 
dates at  the  original  election  admitted.  A  number  of  outrages  were 
about  the  same  time  perpetrated  by  the  Missourians  upon  members 
of  the  Free  Soil  Party. 

The  Governor  had  summoned  the  Legislature  to  meet  at  Pawnee 
City,  on  the  Kansas  River,  a  town  nearly  100  miles  from  the  border, 
and  supposed  to  be  far  enough  away  to  be  free  from  the  intimidation 
practised  by  the  Missourians ;  but  as  soon  as  the  Legislature  assem- 
bled it  changed  the  place  of  meeting  to  Shawnee  Mission,  on  the  Mis- 
souri border.  The  resolution  was  vetoed  by  the  Governor,  passed 
over  his  veto,  and  at  once  carried  into  effect.  Upon  reassembling  at 
Shawnee  Mission,  the  Legislature  proceeded  to  adopt  the  laws  of 
Missouri  as  the  laws  of  Kansas,  and  to  frame  a  series  of  statutes  de- 
signedly cruel  and  oppressive.  These  acts  were  vetoed  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, who  was  removed  by  the  President,  and  Wilson  Shannon,  of 
Ohio,  appointed  in  his  place. 

Meanwhile,  the  New  England  and  other  Free  Soil  men  had  come 
into  the  Territory  quietly  and  rapidly,  until  at  length  they  outnum- 
bered the  pro-slavery  settlers.  They  now  felt  themselves  strong 
enough  to  resist  the  outrages  of  the  Missourians,  and,  accordingly,  on 
the  5th  of  September,  1855,  held  a  Convention,  in  which  they  dis- 
tinctly repudiated  the  Government  that  had  been  forced  upon  them 
by  men  who  were  not  residents  of  the  Territory.  They  announced 
their  intention  to  take  no  part  in  the  election  of  a  delegate  to  Con- 
gress, which  had  been  ordered  by  the  Territorial  authorities  for  the  1st 
of  October,  and  summoned  the  actual  residents  to  send  delegates  to  a 
Convention  to  meet  at  Topeka  on  the  1 9th  of  September.  This  Conven- 
tion organized  an  Executive  Committee  for  the  Territory,  and  ordered 
an  election  to  be  held  for  the  purpose  of  choosing  a  delegate  to  Con- 
gress. Governor  Reeder  was  nominated  and  elected  to  Congress.  On 
the  23d  of  October,  the  Convention  adopted  a  free  State  Constitution, 
and  forwarded  it  to  Congress,  with  a  petition  for  the  admission  of 
Kansas  into  the  Union. 

A  long  and  bloody  struggle  now  began  between  the  Free  Soil  and 
Pro-Slavery  men  in  the  Territory,  during  which  the  latter  were  ree'n- 
forced  by  great  numbers  of  young  men  from  the  Southern  States,  who 


KANSAS.  997 

came  into  Kansas  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  compelling  the  people  to 
submit  to  slavery.  Numerous  conflicts  occurred  between  them,  and 
both  sides  were  guilty  of  many  unjustifiable  acts.  The  odium,  how- 
ever, properly  belongs  to  the  Pro-Slavery  men,  as  they  were  the 
aggressors.  They  captured  and  sacked  the  town  of  Lawrence,  burned 
several  houses,  and  inflicted  upon  it  damage  to  the  extent  of  $150,000. 
The  Federal  Government  usually  lent  its  aid  to  the  Pro-Slavery  party, 
and  did  what  it  could  to  fasten  slavery  upon  the  Territory. 

In  1857,  the  Pro-Slavery  party  held  a  Convention  at  Lecompton, 
and  adopted  a  Constitution  known  as  the  "  Lecompton  Constitution." 
The  administration  of  Mr.  Buchanan  exerted  all  its  power  and  influ- 
ence to  secure  the  admission  of  Kansas  under  this  instrument,  not- 
withstanding the  plain  fact  that  a  majority  of  the  people  of  Kansas 
were  opposed  to  it.  It  was  finally  submitted  to  the  people,  and  re- 
jected by  a  vote  of  11,300  against  it,  to  1788  votes  in  its  favor. 

In  January,  1859,  the  civil  strife  having  subsided  in  the  Territory, 
and  the  Free  Soil  men  having  a  majority  in  the  Legislature,  a  Con- 
vention was  summoned  at  Wyandotte.  It  met  in  July,  and  adopted 
the  Wyandotte  Constitution,  which  was  ratified  by  the  people  by  a 
large  majority.  This  Constitution  was  then  submitted  to  Congress, 
and  a  bill  admitting  the  State  of  Kansas  was  passed  by  the  Lower 
House  early  in  1860.  The  Senate,  however,  failed  to  act  on  the  bill. 
At  the  next  session,  the  measure  was  revived,  and  on  the  30th  of 
January,  1861,  Kansas  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  free  State. 
The  bitterness  of  the  struggle  had  passed  from  the  Territory  to  the 
country  at  large,  and  it  now  culminated  in  the  great  civil  war,  which 
for  four  years  desolated  the  land. 

During  the  late  war  the  State  furnished  19,584  men  to  the  service 
of  the  Union.  It  was  several  times  invaded  by  raiding  parties  from 
the  Confederate  army,  west  of  the  Mississippi,  one  of  which  sacked 
and  burned  the  city  of  Lawrence. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  thp  capital,  the  principal  places  of  Kansas  are,  Leaven- 
worth  City,  Wyandotte,  Atchison,  and  Lawrence. 

TOPEKA, 

In  Shawnee  county,  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Kansas  River,  25  miles  west  of  Lawrence,  and  55 
miles,  in  an  air  linet  southwest  of  Leaven  worth.  Latitude  39°  5'  N., 


998  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

longitude  95°  40'  W.  The  city  is  located  on  high  ground,  which 
rises  gradually  from  the  river.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  wide 
streets,  and  is  well  built.  It  is  growing  rapidly,  and  promises  to  be 
one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the  State.  The  principal  building 
is  the  new  State  Capitol,  now  nearly  completed.  The  entire  plan  is 
formed  with  a  view  to  the  future  wants  of  the  State,  and  will  be 
carried  into  execution  as  the  needs  of  the  Government  demand.  The 
whole  structure,  which  is  to  be  built  of  magnesian  limestone,  will  be 
one  of  the  finest  of  the  kind  in  the  country.  The  eastern  wing  alone 
will  cost  the  State  $450,000.  The  city  contains  about  5  or  6  churches, 
several  excellent  schools,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  It  is  governed  by 
a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population  was  5790. 

The  city  derives  its  name  from  "  Topeka,"  an  Indian  word,  signi- 
fying "  wild  potatoe,"  large  quantities  of  which  grow  along  the  river. 
The  first  settlement  was  made  in  December,  1854,  by  a  company  of 
emigrants  from  Lawrence.  The  place  played  a  prominent  part  in  the 
"Border  war/7  which  preceded  the  admission  of  the  State  into  the 
Union,  and  was  for  a  time  the  free  State  capital  of  Kansas. 

LEAYENWORTH, 

The  principal  city  of  the  State,  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  county 
of  the  same  name,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  45  miles 
east-northeast  of  Topeka,  70  miles  south  of  St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  and  495 
miles  above  St.  Louis.  The  city  is  laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks, 
with  broad  streets,  which  are  well  graded  and  macadamized.  At  the 
river's  edge  is  a  natural  levee  of  rock  extending  along  the  entire  front 
of  the  city.  The  city  is  well  built,  and  is  rapidly  improving.  It 
contains  about  18  churches,  several  excellent  public  schools,  a  medical 
college,  about  6  private  schools,  including  a  commercial  college  and 
female  seminary,  a  theatre,  a  mercantile  library,  and  3  daily  and 
several  weekly  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population  was 
17,849. 

Leavenworth  was  laid  out  in  1854,  and  has  grown  wi$  astonishing 
rapidity.  It  now  conducts  an  important  trade  along  the  Mississippi 
River,  and  is  connected  by  railway  with  all  parts  of  the  country. 
In  1864,  just  ten  years  after  its  settlement,  the  value  of  taxable  real 
and  personal  estate  in  Leavenworth  was  $4,103,562.  The  total  busi- 
ness of  the  city  for  the  same  year  amounted  to  $18,000,000.  The 
city  contains  a  number  of  flour  mills,  saw-mills,  breweries,  brick 


KANSAS. 


999 


LEAVENWORTH  CITY. 

yards,  etc.  Should  it  continue  to  improve  as  it  hastione  during  the 
past  seventeen  years,  it  will  soon  be  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
important  towns  in  the  "Western  States. 

LAWRENCE, 

In  Douglas  county,  is  the  second  city  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on 
the  right  or  southern  bank  of  the  Kansas  River,  25  miles  east- by- 
south  of  Topeka,  and  32  miles  south-southwest  of  Leavenworth. 
The  Kansas  River  is  here  crossed  by  a  handsome  bridge,  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $45,000.  It  is  one  of  the  handsomest  and  best  built  places  in 
the  State,  and  in  spite  of  its  misfortunes  has  steadily  improved  with 
respect  to  its  architecture.  The  city  lies  on  high  ground,  which  slopes 
down  to  the  river,  and  is  regularly  laid  off.  The  streets  are  broad, 
well  macadamized,  and  are  shaded  with  trees.  The  city  contains  the 
county  buildings,  about  13  churches,  several  good  schools,  a  public 
library,  and  3  newspaper  offices.  The  State  University  is  located 
here.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and 
Council.  In  1870  the  population  was  8315. 

Lawrence  was  first  settled  in  the  summer  of  1854,  by  a  company 
of  emigrants  from  New  England,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  Amos 
Lawrence,  of  Boston.  The  settlers  were  sent  out  by  the  Massachusetts 
Aid  Society,  with  the  design  of  making  Kansas  a  free  soil  territory. 
During  the  continuance  of  hostilities  in  the  territory,  Lawrence  was 


1000  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  headquarters  of  the  Free  Settlers,  and  was,  on  this  account, 
peculiarly  obnoxious  to  the  Pro-Slavery  party.  In.  May,  1856,  it 
was  captured  and  sacked  by  the  Pro-Slavery  men  from  Missouri,  and 
damaged  to  the  extent  of  $150,000.  Its  greatest  misfortune,  how- 
ever,.  occurred  during  the  civil  war.  On  the  morning  of  the  21st 
of  August,  1863,  a  party  of  Southern  guerillas,  led  by  the  notorious 
Quantrell,  surprised  the  town.  They  burned  about  150  dwellings, 
massacred  150  defenceless  persons,  sacked  the  town,  and  escaped  with 
their  plunder. 

Quantrell  was  not  regularly  connected  with  the  Confederate  army, 
and  his  deeds  of  violence  soon  compelled  the  Southern  leaders  to  set 
a  price  upon  his  head.  The  city  recovered  rapidly  from  this  disaster, 
and  is  now  in  the  midst  of  a  most  promising  career. 


NEBRASKA. 

Area, 75,995  Square  Miles 

Population  in  1860, 28,842 

Population  in  1870, 122,993 

THE  State  of  Nebraska  is  situated  between  40°  and  43°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  96°  and  104°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Dakota  Territory,  on  the  east  by  Iowa,  on  the  south  by 
Kansas  and  Colorado  Territory,  and  on  the  west  by  Colorado  and 
Wyoming  Territories. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

"Nebraska  extends  from  the  Missouri  westward  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  with  an  extreme  length  of  412  miles,  decreasing  to  310 
miles  on  the  southern  border,  its  extreme  width  being  208  miles, 
diminishing  to  138  miles  on  the  west.  Its  area  is  75,995  square 
miles,  or  48,636,800  acres.  The  country  through  its  entire  length 
dips  toward  the  Missouri  River,  being  upon  the  western  slope  of  the 
great  central  basin  of  the  North  American  continent.  The  larger  por- 
tion is  elevated  and  undulating  prairie;  there  are  no  mountains  or 
high  hills ;  the  bottom  lands  of  the  river  valleys  are  generally  level. 
Above  these,  from  40  to  100  feet,  are  second  bottoms  or  table  lands, 
sloping  backward  to  the  bluffs,  which  range  with  the  general  level  of 
the  country.  These  bluffs  sometimes  rise  hundreds  of  feet  above  the 
river  level;  back  of  these  is  the  undulating  prairie,  well  watered  with 
springs  and  running  streams,  being  covered  with  excellent  grasses. 
This  prairie  resembles  the  waves  of  the  ocean  suddenly  arrested  in 
their  swell  and  changed  into  soil  and  rock.  In  remarkable  contrast 
with  the  general  appearance  of  the  State  is  the  tract  known  as  Mau- 

1001 


1002 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


CROSSING  THE  PLAINS. 

vaises  Terres,  in  the  western  part  of  the  State,  90  miles  long  and  30 
wide,  produced  by  some  powerful  agencies  of  denudation  and  degrada- 
tion of  the  land.  Viewed  from  a  distance,  it  seems  like  some  deserted 
abode  of  civilization ;  the  prismatic  and  columnar  masses  appear  as 
residences  of  modern  architecture  or  public  buildings,  with  towers, 
columns,  and  walls.  A  near  approach  dispels  the  illusion,  the  im- 
posing forms  of  architectural  beauty  resolve  themselves  into  masses 
of  rocks  with  labyrinthine  defiles.  These  first  appearances,  however, 
are  not  correct  exponents  of  geological  character,  as  they  are  found 
upon  examination  to  contain  some  excellent  lands."  * 

The  Missouri  River  forms  the  eastern  boundary  and  a  part  of  the 
northern.  It  receives  the  \vaters  of  the  principal  streams  of  the  State. 
The  Republican  Fork  of  the  Kansas  drains  the  southern  counties,  and 
the  Niobrara  forms  a  part  of  the  northern  boundary,  and  flows  into 
the  Missouri.  The  Platte  or  Nebraska  River  is  the  principal  stream 
in  the  State.  It  is  formed  by  the  union  of  its  North  and  South  forks, 
in  the  centre  of  the  State — the  former  rising  in  Wyoming,  and  the 
latter  in  Colorado.  The  general  course  of  the  main  stream  and  its 
forks  is  eastward  to  the  Missouri,  into  which  it  empties  below  Omaha 

*  Report  of  the  General  Land-Office. 


NEBRASKA.  1003 

City.  Including  the  North  Fork  (which  is  800  miles  long),  the  Platte 
is  1200  miles  long.  As  its  name  signifies,  it  is  a  shallow  river.  In 
the  summer,  it  is  but  a  succession  of  shallow  pools;  but  during  the 
spring  freshets,  steamers  can  navigate  it  for  a  considerable  distance. 
The  Elkhorn  River  drains  the  northeast  part  of  the  State,  and  flows 
into  the  Platte  near  its  mouth. 

MINERALS. 

Thin  beds  of  coal  exist  in  several  parts  of  the  State.  Limestone 
and  sandstone  abound,  and  salt  springs  are  frequent,  and  yield  an 
excellent  quality  of  salt. 

CLIMATE,  SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

"  The  climate  is  milder  than  the  Eastern  States  within  the  same 
parallels  of  latitude;  the  summer  is  of  high  temperature,  but  the 
sultriness  is  alleviated  by  cool,  refreshing  winds  blowing  over  the 
prairies.  The  quantity  of  rain  is  less  than  falls  on  the  Atlantic  side. 
This  dry  ness  does  not  become  appreciable  east  of  the  98th  meridian. 
West  of  that  meridian  the  soil,  so  far  as  known,  is  arid  and  not  so  well 
suited  to  agriculture ;  that  part  of  the  State  to  the  eastward,  however, 
is  not  deficient  in  moisture.  The  peculiar  character  of  soil  and  cli- 
mate indicates  that  stock-raising  will  become  a  very  important  and 
remunerative  branch  of  its  agricultural  enterprise.  The  dryness  of 
the  climate  and  the  copious  vegetation,  especially  of  nutritious  grasses, 
will  attract  capital,  with  a  view  to  the  establishment  of  wool-raising 
interests.  The  soil  of  the  eastern  portion  is  exceedingly  fertile;  the 
prairies  are  covered  with  a  heavy  sod,  the  matted  growth  of  ages  of 
vegetation,  several  teams  of  oxen  being  required  to  break  it;  the  sub- 
sequent tillage  is  comparatively  easy,  the  ground  being  rendered  light 
and  mellow.  Along  the  rivers  are  groves  of  oak,  walnut,  cottonwood, 
hickory,  and  willow;  very  dense  forests  of  cottonwood  grow  along 
the  Missouri  River  above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte."  * 

There  are  about  1,000,000  acres  of  improved  land  in  the  State. 
The  principal  agricultural  returns  are  as  follows : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 2,125,000 

Indian  corn, 5,000,000 

rye, 14,000 

*  General  Land-Office  Report. 


1004  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Bushels  of  oats, 1,600,000 

"  barley, 220,000 

"  potatoes, 800,000 

Tons  of  hay, 170,000 

Number  of  horses, 32,000 

"  asses  and  mules, 3,000 

"  milch  cows, 35,000 

"  sheep, 30,000 

"  swine, 65,000 

Value  of  domestic  animals, ,     $8,000,000 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  great  Pacific  Railway  extends  entirely  across  this  State,  along 
the  north  bank  of  the  Platte  River,  from  Omaha  into  Wyoming  Ter- 
ritory. There  are  2143  miles  of  railway  within  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

There  is  a  Normal  School  at  Peru,  which  has  been  liberally  endowed 
by  the  State.  It  was  opened  in  October,  1867,  and  is  succeeding 
admirably. 

A  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction  has  the  control  of  the 
schools,  subject  to  the  supervision  of  a  State  Board  of  Education, 
which  consists  of  himself,  the  Governor,  Treasurer,  Secretary  of  State, 
and  five  other  persons  appointed  by  the  Governor. 

One-sixteenth  of  all  the  Government  lands  in  the  State,  amounting 
to  2,643,080  acres,  is  set  apart  for  the  creation  of  a  public  school  fund, 
while  46,080  acres  have  been  given  for  the  endowment  of  a  State 
University,  and  90.000  acres  for  the  State  Agricultural  College.  The 
fund  arising  from  these  lands  cannot  be  expended.  Only  the  interest 
can  be  used.  The  minimum  price  at  which  they  can  be  sold  is  $5  per 
acre,  so  that  the  fund  to  be  derived  from  this  source  cannot  be  less 
than  over  $13,000,000.  The  whole  amount  derived  from  the  school 
fund  in  1869-70  was  $77,999.  The  whole  number  of  children  in 
attendance  upon  the  public  schools  in  the  same  year  was  32,619. 

FINANCES. 

The  State  has  no  public  debt.  Its  Constitution  prohibits  it  from 
incurring  a  debt  in  excess  of  $50,000  in  amount.  In  1870,  the  total 
assessed  value  of  property  in  Nebraska  was  $53,000,000. 


NEBRASKA.  1005 

\ 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  Constitution  of  this  State  was  adopted  in  1866.  By  its  terms, 
every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  every  foreigner  who  has 
legally  declared  his  intention  to  become  a  citizen,  who  is  21  years  old, 
and  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  the  required  time  in  the 
county,  is  entitled-  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Trea- 
surer, Auditor,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a  Legislature,  consisting 
of  a  Senate  (of  13  members)  and  a  House  of  Representatives  (of  39 
members),  all  chosen  by  the  people.  The  State  officers  are  elected  for 
four  years,  and  members  of  the  Legislature  for  two  years. 

The  judicial  power  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  District  Courts, 
Probate  Courts,  and  in  Justices  of  the  Peace.  All  judges  are  elected 
by  the  people.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and 
two  Associates,  chosen  for  six  years. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Lincoln. 

The  State  is  divided  into  51  organized  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Nebraska  was  originally  a  part  of  the  Louisiana  purchase.  It  was 
organized  as  a  Territory  in  1854.  Kansas  attracted  the  greater  part 
of  the  emigrants,  and  so  occupied  the  attention  of  the  pro-slavery 
party  that  Nebraska  escaped  the  struggle  by  which  her  neighbor  was 
torn.  Emigration  was  very  rapid  until  the  financial  panic  of  1857 
checked  it.  The  Territory  was  some  time  in  recovering  from  the 
effects  of  this  crisis,  which  has  been  succeeded  by  a  slower  but  more 
substantial  growth  in  prosperity.  In  1860,  its  population  was  28,842. 
The  Pacific  Railroad  begins  at  Omaha,  the  principal  city  of  the  State, 
and  will  undoubtedly  do  much  to  build  up  and  populate  the  young 
commonwealth. 

On  the  21st  of  March,  1864,  Congress  passed  an  Act  enabling  the 
people  to  organize  a  State  Government.  A  Constitution  was  ratified 
by  the  people  on  the  8th  of  June,  1866,  and  on  the  9th  of  February, 
1867,  Nebraska  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

LINCOLN, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Lancaster  county,  80  miles  south- 
west of  Omaha,  and  50  miles  west  of  Nebraska  City,  with  which  it  is 


1006  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

connected  by  railway.  The  town  sprang  up  suddenly  in  the  summer 
of  1867,  and  grew  with  remarkable  rapidity.  Before  eighteen  months 
had  elapsed,  it  had  grown  to  such  an  extent  in  buildings  and  residents 
that  on  this  account,  as  well  as  the  prospective  benefits  resulting  from 
its  local  position  to  the  whole  community,  the  people  by  a  majority  of 
votes  selected  it  as  the  capital  of  Nebraska.  Towards  the  close  of  the 
year  1868,  the  seat  of  Government  was  removed  from  Omaha,  and 
permanently  located  at  Lincoln.  A  suitable  building  having  been 
prepared  for  that  purpose,  the  Legislature  met  here  in  January,  1869. 
Considerable  progress  has  been  made  in  establishing  public  buildings 
and  institutions  here.  The  main  portion  of  the  capitol  has  been  built 
of  handsome  white  limestone,  and  the  foundations  of  a  State  Univer- 
sity and  an  Insane  Asylum  are  laid.  A  Penitentiary  and  an  Agri- 
cultural College  are  to  be  erected  here,  having  been  authorized  by  the 
Legislature  at  its  last  session.  The  town  is  built  on  the  open  prairie 
in  the  midst  of  a  delightfully  healthy,  beautiful  and  fertile  country. 
The  population  is  about  2000,  and  is  increasing  rapidly.  Three  news- 
papers are  published  here. 

OMAHA, 

Sometimes  called  Omaha  City,  the  largest  and  most  important  city  of 
the  State,  is  situated  in  Douglas  county,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mis- 
souri River,  opposite  the  city  of  Council  Bluffs,  in  Iowa.  It  is  18 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  River,  80  miles  northeast  of  Lin- 
coln, and  250  miles  by  river  above  St.  Joseph,  Missouri.  The  city 
lies  on  a  plateau  between  the  river  and  the  bluffs.  From  the  summits 
of  the  bluffs  a  magnificent  view  of  the  wide  and  undulating  prairie  is 
obtained.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out.  The  streets  are  wide,  cross 
each  other  at  right-angles,  and  are  paved  with  stone,  with  side-walks 
of  brick.  The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  old  State  House,  and 
the  Court  House.  The  former  is  of  brick,  and  occupies  a  commanding 
site.  The  city  contains  about  11  or  12  churches,  several  good  public 
and  private  schools,  and  5  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas, 
and  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population 
was  16,083. 

The  Missouri  is  navigable  for  large  steamers  for  some  distance  above 
Omaha,  and  the  city  carries  on  a  considerable  river  trade.  Omaha  is 
connected  with  all  parts  of  the  country  by  railway,  being  connected 
with  Council  Bluffs  by  a  steam  ferry.  It  is  the  eastern  terminus  of 
the  Pacific  Railway,  and  is,  consequently,  a  place  of  considerable  im- 


NEBRASKA. 


lOOt 


OMAHA. 

portance.  It  is  largely  engaged  in  the  sale  and  transportation  of 
goods  to  the  mines,  plains,  and  frontier  forts.  Many  of  the  emigrants 
going  westward  obtain  their  outfits  here.  Omaha  was  founded  in  1854. 
In  1860,  it  contained  but  1883  inhabitants.  It  derives  its  name  from 
a  tribe  of  Indians. 

NEBRASKA  CITY, 

The  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Otoe  county,  on  the  right 
or  western  bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  28  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Platte  River,  50  miles  east  of  Lincoln,  and  96  miles,  by  water, 
south  of  Omaha.  It  is  built  on  ground  which  rises  as  it  recedes  from 
the  river.  The  buildings  are  mostly  of  wood,  but  the  town  has  a 
bright  and  pleasing  appearance.  It  contains  the  county  buildings,  7 
or  8  churches,  2  public  halls,  4  public  schools,  and  3  newspaper  offices. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population 
was  6050. 

The  city  conducts  a  large  river  trade,  and  is  actively  engaged  in 
fitting  out  emigrants  for  the  plains  and  in  sending  supplies  to  the  fron- 
tier towns.  The  Pacific  Railway  has  taken  away  a  great  share  of 
this  business.  There  are  valuable  salt  springs  in  the  western  part  of 
the  county. 


NE  V  AD  A. 

Area,      112,090  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 6,857 

Population  in  1870, 42,491 

THE  State  of  Nevada  is  situated  between  37°  and  42°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  115°  and  120°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Oregon  and  Idaho  Territory,  on  the  east  by  Utah  and  Arizona  Terri- 
tories, and  on  the  south  and  west  by  California.  Its  extreme  length, 
from  north  to  south,  is  about  348  miles,  and  its  extreme  width,  from 
east  to  west,  about  265  miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  of  the  State  is  generally  mountainous,  and  much  of  it  is 
a  barren  desert.  The  Sierra  Nevada  range  forms  the  western  bound- 
ary, and  the  Humboldt  Mountains  occupy  the  centre.  The  East 
Humboldt  Mountains  extend  north  and  south  through  the  upper 
eastern  part  of  the  State.  A  large  part  of  Fremont's  Basin  lies  in 
Nevada,  at  an  elevation  of  4000  feet  above  the  sea.  Two-thirds 
of  the  State  is  a  bleak  desert,  which  can  neither  be  inhabited  nor 
cultivated. 

There  are  no  large  rivers  in  Nevada,  and  the  soil  is  only  supplied 
with  the  necessary  amount  of  water  by  artificial  means.  The  Hum- 
boldt Ewer  rises  in  the  northeast  of  the  State,  and  flowing  westward, 
empties  into  Humboldt  Lake.  A  small  stream,  called  Walker  River  9 
flows  through  the  southwest  and  empties  into  Walker  Lake.  Carson 
River  rises  in  the  southwest  and  flows  east  into  Carson  Lake. 

"  The  only  lakes  of  any  considerable  size  in  the  State  are  those 
formed  by  the  Humboldt,  Walker,  Carson,  and  Truckee  rivers,  and 
1008 


NEVADA. 


1000 


PALISADES— HUMBOLDT   RIVER  :   SCENE   ON   THE   CENTRAL   PACIFIC 

RAILROAD. 

bearing  the  names  of  those  streams  respectively,  together  with  Pyra- 
mid Lake,  the  largest  of  the  group,  formed  by  the  waters  of  the 
Truckee  River.  Lake  Tahoe,  with  one-third  of  its  area  only  within 
the  borders  of  Nevada,  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  21  miles  long  and 
10  wide,  and  though  elevated  more  than  6000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  it  never  freezes  over,  nor  does  the  temperature  of  its  waters 
vary  much  from  57  degrees  in  summer  or  winter,  owing  probably 
to  its  being  fed  by  springs.  This  lake,  like  Lake  Pyramid,  abounds 
in  trout  of  large  size  and  fine  flavor,  and  is  surrounded  on  every  side 
by  lofty  mountains,  which,  rising  abruptly  from  its  shores,  are  covered 
for  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  year  with  snow,  and  are  heavily  timbered 
with  forests  of  pine,  spruce,  and  fir.  Pyramid  Lake,  which  has  a 
depth  of  1500  feet,  is  12  miles  wide  by  30  in  length,  and  is  situated 
in  the  western  part  of  the  State  ;  its  scenery  is  extremely  grand,  being 
walled  about  with  mountains  2000  to  3000  feet  high.  Mono  Lake  is 
about  14  miles  long  and  9  wide ;  it  is  so  acid  and  nauseating  as  to 
render  it  not  only  unfit  for  drinking,  but  also  for  bathing.  Leather 
immersed  in  it' is  soon  destroyed,  and  no  animal,  not  even  a  fish  or 
frog,  can  for  more  than  a  short  time  exist  in  it.  The  only  thing  able 
to  live  in  or  upon  the  waters  of  this  lake  is  a  species  of  fly  which, 
64 


1010  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

springing  from  a  larva  bred  in  its  bosom,  shortly  dies,  and,  collecting 
on  the  surface,  drifts  in  great  quantities  to  the  shore,  to  be  gathered 
and  eaten  by  the  Indians.  None  but  the  strongest  winds  can  ripple 
the  surface  of  this  desolate  lake ;  it  may  aptly  be  called  a  Dead  Sea,  its 
bitter  and  fatal  waters  rendering  it  literally  such,  while  all  its  sur- 
roundings, wild,  gloomy,  and  foreboding,  are  highly  suggestive  of 
sterility  and  death.  There  are  many  warm  and  cold  springs  in  the 
State,  some  of  which  are  much  resorted  to  for  the  curative  qualities  of 
their  waters."  * 

MINERALS. 

Nevada  is  especially  rich  in  minerals.  Gold,  silver,  quicksilver, 
copper,  lead,  and  iron  are  found  in  great  abundance.  The  silver 
mines  of  this  State,  however,  are  the  principal  source  of  her  wealth. 
They  yield  immense  sums  annually.  The  Comstock  lode  produces 
about  $16,500,000  worth  of  silver  every  year.  It  furnishes  the  prin- 
cipal portion  of  the  metal  produced  in  the  State,  and  is  thus  described 
by  Ross  Browne : 

"  The  Comstock  lode  runs  along  the  eastern  slope  of  the  "VVashoe 
Mountains,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Davidson,  its  loftiest  summit.  Its  out- 
crop is  not  by  any  means  continuous,  consisting  of  parallel  belts  of  quartz, 
extending  from  east  to  west,  in  some  places  nearly  1000  feet,  which 
show  themselves  chiefly  on  the  tops  of  the  spurs,  running  down  from 
the  main  ridge.  The  western  of  these  quartz  seams,  being  of  a  hard 
crystalline  texture,  form  the  most  prominent  outcrops,  but  experience 
has  shown  them  to  be  of  less  value  than  the  eastern  bodies,  which, 
from  their  different  composition,  have  been  more  easily  disentegrated, 
and  are  often  covered  up  by  the  debris  from  the  higher  and  steeper 
portions  of  the  mountain.  The  vein  has  been  more  or  less  thoroughly 
explored,  and  its  continuity  established  by  underground  workings  for 
a  length  of  about  3J  miles,  though  the  productive  portion  forms  but  a 
small  proportion  of  the  whole,  as  barren  spots  of  great  extent  intervene 
between  the  bonanzas  or  ore  bodies.  Its  ( strike '  or  course,  as  shown 
by  the  exposure  of  the  west  wall,  in  numerous  places,  is  nearly  mag- 
netic north  and  south  (north  16  degrees  east  by  true  meridian).  But 
little  doubt  now  exists  that  the  Comstock  is  a  true  fissure  vein,  with 
a  width  of  from  20  feet  upward.  The  total  product  of  the  Comstock 
lode,  for  the  year  ending  December  31st,  1867,  is  estimated  by  the 
most  reliable  authorities  at  $17,500,000.  It  is  estimated  that  other 

*  Ross  Browne's  Report. 


NEVADA. 


1011 


SILVER    MIXING. 


districts  in  Nevada  have  yielded  during  the  same  period  $2,500,000, 
making  the  total  product  of  Nevada  for  the  calendar  year,  1867, 
$20,000,000.  The  average  percentage  of  gold  and  silver  is  about  66 
per  cent,  silver,  and  34  per  cent.  gold.  In  the  outside  districts  the 
proportion  of  gold  is  considerably  less.  The  amount  of  ore  raised  from 
the  mines  on  the  Comstock  lode  may  be  put  down  at  the  present  time 
at  about  1500  tons  daily,  and  the  total  amount  raised  since  the  com- 
mencement of  operations  at  about  2,000,000  tons.  From  information 
furnished  by  the  superintendents  of  the  following  mines,  the  yield  per 
ton  appears  to  be:  Savage  Mine — 30,250  tons  produced  in  the.last  six 
months  of  1866,  yielded  an  average  of  $42.93  per  ton.  Hale  and 
Norcross  Mine — 16,836  tons  produced  in  the  same  time,  yielded  an 
average  of  $50.33  per  ton.  Gould  and  Curry  Mine — 62,425  tons  pro- 
duced in  1866,  yielded  an  average  of  $28.64  per  ton.  The  total  yield 
of  precious  metals  from  the  '  Comstock'  lode  in  5  years,  or  from  1862 
to  1866,  inclusive,  was  $63,000,000." 


1012  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Coal  is  found  in  small  quantities,  and  there  are  large  deposits  of 
salt  and  alkalies. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate,  though  severe,  is  not  unpleasant,  and  is  exceedingly 
healthful.  The  year  is  divided  into  the  wet  and  the  dry  season,  as 
in  California. 

Agriculture  is  neglected  for  the  mines,  but  where  the  soil  can  be 
supplied  with  water  by  irrigation,  it  yields  fair  crops. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  Central  Pacific  Railway  of  California  passes  across  the  northern 
part  of  Nevada,  from  the  western  boundary  into  Utah  Territory. 
There  are  593  miles  of  railway  within  the  State. 

EDUCATION. 

In  1870,  there  were  38  public  schools  in  the  State,  attended  by 
1856  pupils;  and  15  private  schools,  attended  by  417  pupils. 

The  chief  control  of  the  schools  is  vested  in  a  Board  of  Education, 
consisting  of  the  Governor,  Surveyor-General,  and  Superintendent  of 
Public  Instruction.  The  last  official  is  the  executive  officer  of  the 
Board,  and  has  the  direct  supervision  of  the  schools.  Each  county 
elects  a  Superintendent,  who  directs  its  educational  interests,  and 
reports  to  the  State  Superintendent.  The  counties  are  divided  into 
districts,  each  of  which  is  under  the  immediate  control  of  a  Board  of 
Trustees,  chosen  by  the  people.  Where  the  voters  fail  to  elect  the 
Trustees,  they  are  appointed  by  the  County  Superintendent.  The 
State  Superintendent  appoints  a  Board  of  Examiners,  consisting  of 
three  competent  persons,  for  each  county.  These  Boards  are  charged 
with  the  duty  of  examining  teachers  and  granting  certificates. 

There  is  a  permanent  school  fund,  and  measures  are  on  foot  for  the 
establishment  of  schools  of  a  higher  grade. 

FINANCES. 

The  State  debt  in  1870,  was  about  $300,000,  and  is  payable  in  coin. 
During  the  year  1870,  the  receipts  of  the  Treasury  amounted  to 
$339,927,  and  the  expenditures  to  $379,354. 


NEVADA.  1013 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  Constitution  of  Nevada  was  adopted  in  1864.  By  its  terms, 
every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  who  has  resided  in  the  State 
six  months,  and  in  the  county  thirty  days,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the 
elections.  Convicts,  idiots,  and  insane  persons  are  excluded  from  the 
ballot. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Go vernor, 
Secretary  of  State,  Treasurer,  Comptroller,  and  Attorney-General,  and 
a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  19  members),  and  an  Assem- 
bly (of  38  members),  all  chosen  by  the  people.  The  Governor  and 
other  State  officers  are  elected  for  four  years. 

The  judicial  power  is  invested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  District  Courts, 
Probate  Courts,  and  in  Justices  of  the  Peace.  All  judges  are  elected 
by  the  people.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice,  and 
two  Associate  Justices,  chosen  for  four  years. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Carson  City. 

The  State  is  divided  into  17  organized  counties. 

HISTORY. 

Nevada  was  originally  a  part  of  Utah  Territory,  and  constituted 
the  western  part  of  it.  In  1861,  it  was  erected  into  a  Territory,  and 
Was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  State  on  the  31st  of  October,  1864. 

Previous  to  the  discovery  of  silver,  it  was  almost  entirely  neglected 
by  emigrants.  In  the  summer  of  1859,  silver  was  found  in  the 
Washoe  district,  and  as  if  by  magic  settlers  began  to  pour  in. 
Virginia  City  sprang  up  in  a  marvellously  short  time,  and  in  1864 
was  the  second  city  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

The  circumstances  attending  the  discovery  of  silver,  were  as 
follows: 

"  The  Washoe  silver  mines  were  first  discovered  by  Mr.  Patrick 
McLaughlin,  an  '  honest  miner/  who  was  working  for  gold  in  a  gulch 
or  ravine,  and  where  he  was  making  $100  a  day  to  the  hand.  As  he 
and  his  companions  followed  up  the  gulch,  it  paid  even  better,  until, 
on  arriving  at  a  certain  point,  it  gave  out  altogether,  and  they  struck 
a  vein  of  pure  sulphuret  of  silver,  which  they  at  first  supposed  to  be 
coal,  but  observing  that  it  was  very  heavy,  they  concluded  it  must  be 
valuable,  and  sent  one  of  their  number  to  San  Francisco  with  some 
of  the  black  ore  to  ascertain  its  value.  It  was  given  to  a  Mr. 


1014  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Killaley,  an  old  Mexican  miner,  to  assay.  Killaley  took  the  ore 
home  and  assayed  it.  The  result  was  so  astounding  that  the  old  man 
got  terribly  excited.  The  next  morning  poor  Killaley  was  found 
dead  in  his  bed.  He  had  long  been  in  bad  health,  and  the  excite- 
ment killed  him.  Immediate  search  was  made  for  the  original 
deposit,  which  resulted  in  the  since  famous  Comstock  lode.  Where 
first  found,  this  lode  has  no  outcropping  or  other  indication  to  denote 
its  presence.  The  first  assay  of  the  rock  taken  from  the  lode  when 
first  struck  gave  a  return  of  $265  of  gold  and  silver  per  ton,  there  being 
a  larger  proportion  of  gold  than  silver.  Subsequent  assays  of  ore 
taken  from  the  vein,  as  it  was  sunk  upon,  showed  a  rapid  increase  in 
richness,  until  the  enormous  return  was  made  of  $7000  to  the  ton — - 
$4000  in  gold  and  $3000  in  silver.  Still  later  assays  of  choice  pieces 
of  ore  have  given  a  return  of  $15,000  to  the  ton.  In  this  case  these 
ounce  assays  did  not  mislead,  but  a  vast  difference  is  to  be  observed 
between  rich  ore  and  a  rich  mine.  A  poor  mine  often  yields  specimens 
of  rich  ore,  which  through  the  ounce  assay,  serves  but  to  delude. 
The  true  test  of  the  value  of  a  silver  mine  is  the  quantity  of  the  ore, 
and  the  average  yield  of  the  ore  in  bulk  after  the  establishment  of 
reduction  works." 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  Virginia  City,  and  Austin,  are  the  principal 
towns. 

CARSON    CITY, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Ormsby  county,  at  the  eastern 
base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  about  4  miles  west  of  Carson 
River,  250  miles  (by  railway)  east  of  San  Francisco,  and  15  miles 
south -by- west  of  Virginia  City.  It  was  founded  in  1858,  and  lies  in 
a  fertile  plain  in  the  midst  of  some  of  the  grandest  scenery  on  the 
Continent.  The  State  buildings,  the  Court  House,  State  Prison,  and 
United  States  Mint,  are  the  principal  edifices.  In  1870,  the  popula- 
tion was  3042. 

VIRGINIA  CITY, 

The  largest  and  most  important  city  in  the  State,  is  situated  in  Storey 
county,  among  rocky  ledges  and  ravines,  on  the  eastern  slope  of 
Mount  Davidson,  15  miles  north-northeast  of  Carson  City.  The 
principal  streets  are  level,  having  been  in  many  places  graded  through 
the  hard  rock.  In  the  business  sections  are  many  solid  blocks  of 


NEVADA.  1015 

stone,  five  stories  high,  and  the  suburbs  contain  many  beautiful  and 
costly  private  residences.  It  contains  4  churches  and  schools,  and 
several  newspaper  offices.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with 
pure  spring  water,  which  is  distributed  through  iron  pipes.  In  1870, 
the  population  was  7008. 

The  city  owes  its  prosperity  and  growth  to  the  silver  mines  with 
which  it  is  surrounded.  The  famous  Comstock  lode  was  discovered 
here  in  June,  1859.  The  mines  are  the  richest  in  the  State,  and  are 
said  to  have  yielded  in  1864,  $10,425,350  worth  of  silver.  During 
the  great  excitement  which  followed  the  discovery  of  silver,  Virginia 
City  was  the  headquarters  of  all  the  adventurers  who  flocked  to  the 
mines.  At  one  time  the  population  was  from  15,000  to  20,000. 
Since  then  it  has  settled  down  to  a  better  and  more  prosperous  life. 


CALIFORNIA. 

Area, 188,981  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 397,994 

Population  in  1870, 560,223 

THE  State  of  California  is  situated  between  32°  32'  and  42°  N. 
latitude,  and  between  114°  20'  and  124°  22'  W.  longitude.  It  is 
about  700  miles  long,  and  has  an  average  width  of  180  miles.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Oregon,  on  the  east  by  Nevada  and  Arizona, 
on  the  south  by  Old  California  (which  is  a  part  of  the  Republic  of 
Mexico),  and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

"  California  is  an  extremely  rugged  country,  a  large  portion  of  its 

surface  being  covered  with  mountains The  Sierra  Nevada,  or 

Snowy  Mountains,  which  bound  the  Sacramento  Valley  on  the  east, 
include  a  series  of  ranges  which,  collectively,  are  70  miles  wide.  The 
general  name  for  the  group  is  derived  from  the  snow,  which  is  rarely 
absent  from  the  higher  peaks  in  the  range.  The  Coast  Range,  which 
bounds  it  on  the  west,  also  consists  of  a  series  of  chains,  aggregating 
40  miles  in  width,  bordering  the  State  from  its  northern  to  its  southern 
boundary.  There  is  a  most  remarkable  difference  in  the  structure  and 
conformation  of  the  two  series.  The  Sierra  Nevada  ranges  may  be 
traced  in  consecutive  order  for  an  immense  distance,  while  in  the  Coast 

Range  all  is  in  confusion  and  disorder Those  portions  of  this 

range  which  skirt  the  coast  in  Marin,  Sonoma,  and  Mendocino  coun- 
ties, between  latitude  38°  and  40°,  are  tolerably. well  timbered;  but 
south  of  Bodega  Bay  and  north  of  Mendocino  county,  except  about 
Monterey  Bay  and  Santa  Cruz,  the  coast  line  presents  a  bleak  and 
1016 


CALIFORNIA.  1017 

sterile  appearance.  All  the  valleys  in  the  range  which  are  open  to 
the  coast  are  narrow,  and  trend  nearly  east  and  west.  The  Salinas, 
the  most  extensive  of  these  coast  valleys,  is  nearly  90  miles  in  length, 
by  8  to  14  miles  in  width,  a  large  portion  of  which  is  adapted  to  agri- 
cultural purposes — being  exceedingly  fertile,  producing  abundance  of 
wild  oats  and  clover,  where  not  under  cultivation.  The  Russian  River 
valley,  which  also  opens  to  the  sea,  is  also  very  fertile.  Further  inland, 
sheltered  from  the  cool  sea  breezes  by  the  outer  range  of  mountains, 
are  many  tolerably  broad  and  very  beautiful  valleys,  which  produce 
the  finest  grain,  fruit  and  vegetables  raised  in  this  part  of  the  coast.  .  .  . 
The  outer  coast  valleys  are  generally  separated  by  steep,  barren  ridges, 
while  those  inland,  are  divided  by  gently  sloping  hills,  somewhat 
similar  to  the  rolling  prairie  lands  of  Illinois,  and  are  susceptible  of 
cultivation  over  their  entire  surface.  All  the  coast  valleys  are  tolerably 

well  watered To  the  peculiarly  isolated  position  of  Monte 

Diablo — standing  aloof  as  it  does,  from  the  throng  of  peaks  that  rise 
from  the  Coast  Range,  like  a  patrician  separated  from  plebeians,  the 
beauty  of  its  outline  commanding  the  attention  of  the  traveller  by  land 
or  sea — makes  it  a  landmark  not  possible  to  mistake,  and  causes  its 
summit  to  be  a  centre  from  whence  may  be  viewed  a  wider  range  of 
country  than  can  be  seen  from  almost  any  other  point  in  the  State. 
On  the  north,  east,  and  southeast,  may  be  seen  a  large  portion  of  the 
great  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  with  many  thriving 
towns  and  villages,  environed  with  gardens  and  farms,  while  sweeps 
ai»d  slopes  of  verdure  mark  the  distant  plains  with  hues  inimitable 
by  art.  In  the  extreme  distance,  as  a  border  to  this  grand  panorama, 
rising  range  upon  range,  is  seen  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  stretch- 
it. -g  along  the  horizon  upward  of  300  miles.  In  an  opposite  direction 
the  beautiful  valleys  of  the  Coast  Range  come  into  view,  with  all  the 
charming  features  of  prosperous  and  skilled  rural  industry,  and  the 
broad  bay  of  San  Francisco,  where  are  riding  at  anchor  a  fleet  of  ships, 
from  the  masts  of  which  the  ensigns  of  nearly  all  nations  may  be  seen 
fluttering  ;  while  beyond,  extending  from  the  water-line  to  the  very 
summit  of  the  highest  hills,  is  San  Francisco  City,  the  home  of  nearly 
one-fourth  the  population  of  the  State.  To  the  right  is  seen  the  forts 
and  earthworks  that  guard  the  Golden  Gate,  while  beyond,  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  is  the  Pacific  Ocean,  bearing  on  its  bosom  number- 
less vessels,  passing  to  and  fro  on  the  peaceful  mission  of  commerce."* 

*  "  The  Natural  Wealth  of  California."    By  T.  F;  Cronise. 


1018 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


ORIGINAL  BIG  TREE  (30  feet  in  diameter). 

The  highest  peaks  of  the  Coast  Range  are  Mt.  San  Bernardino, 
8500  feet  high,  Mt.  San  Gorgonio,  7000  feet,  Mt.  Hamilton,  4433 
feet,  Mt.  Diablo,  3876  feet,  Mt«  Ripley,  7500  feet,  and  Mt,  St.  John, 
and  Mt.  Linn.  The  height  of  the  last  two  has  not  yet  been  accurately 
determined.  The  principal  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  are  Mt.  Whit- 
ney, 15,000  feet,  Mt.  Cawiah,  14,000  feet,  Mt.  Silliman,  11,800  feet, 
Mt.  Tyndall,  14,200  feet,  Table  Mountain,  13,000  feet,  Mt.  Brewer, 
13,700  feet,  Mt.  Goddard,  13,000  feet,  Mt.  Lyell,  13,500,  Mt.  Dana, 
13,500,  and  Castle  Peak,  13,000.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  State, 
the  Sierra  Nevada  and  Coast  Range  unite.  The  principal  peaks  of 
this  region  are  Mt.  Shasta,  14,440  feet,  Mt.  Lassen,  Downieville 
Buttes,  8840  feet,  and  Pilot  Peak,  7300  feet. 

The  most  important  valleys  along  the  coast  are  the  Santa  Clara, 
San  Gabriel,  Los  Angeles,  Salinas,  Pajaro,  Amador,  San  Ramon, 
Suisun,  Napa,  Sonoma,  Petaluma,  Russian  River,  and  Humboldt  Bay. 

In  the  southeastern  part  of  the  State  is  a  sterile  region  140  miles 
long  and  70  miles  wide,  known  as  the  Colorado  Desert.  When  the 
Colorado  River  overflows  its  banks  the  centre  of  this  tract,  which  is 
70  feet  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  converted  into  a  lake.  At  other 
i6^a»  laDtwfydcearp  rvyaate.  ,d 


CALIFORNIA.  1019 

the  Mohave  Basin.  It  is  watered  by  a  few  streams,  all  of  which 
empty  into  small  salt  lakes,  which  dry  up  in  the  summer.  The  waters 
of  these  lakes  are  strongly  impregnated'  with  alkaline  salts.  No  fish 
can  live  in  them,  and  the  water  of  some  of  them  scalds  the  skin  of  a 
human  being,  and  produces  painful  sores. 

The  coast  is  indented  with  several  fine  bays.  Beginning  on  the 
north,  the  most  important  are  Trinidad,  Humboldt,  Bodega,  Tomales, 
Sir  Francis  Drake,  San  Francisco,  Monterey,  Estero,  San  Luis,  San 
Pedro,  and  San  Diego  Bays.  All  these,  except  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco/open  directly  upon  the  ocean.  San  Francisco  Bay  is  the  best 
harbor  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  as  well  as  the  largest.  It  extends  inland 
for  about  60  miles,  north  and  south,  and  is  14  miles  wide  at  its  broadest 
part.  About  30  miles  from  its  northern  extremity  it  communicates 
with  the  Pacific  through  a  strait  two  miles  long,  and  about  six  miles 
wide,  which  breaks  through  the  range  of  highlands  which  lines  the 
coast  at  this  point.  This  entrance  is  very  picturesque,  and  is  known 
as  the  Golden  Gate.  The  northern  part  of  the  bay  is  called  San  Pablo 
Bay,  and  communicates  through  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  with  Suisin 
Bay,  16  miles  long  and  5  miles  wide,  which  is  formed  by  the  united 
waters  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  Rivers.  The  city  of  San 
Francisco  is  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  the  southern  part  of  San 
Francisco  Bay,  just  within  the  Golden  Gate.  Several  towns  lie  along 
the  shore,  and  four  or  five  small  islands  lie  in  the  bay. 

The  principal  rivers  of  the  State  are  the  Sacramento  and  the  San 
Joaquin.  The  Sacramento  River  rises  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
State,  near  the  foot  of  Mt.  Shasta,  and  flows  in  a  generally  southern 
direction  into  Suisin  Bay,  through  which  it  communicates  with  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  the  most  important  river  in  the  State,  is 
400  miles  long,  and  is'  navigable  for  steamers  for  300  miles.  It  flows 
through  a  valley  about  50  miles  wide,  which  is  almost  a  perfect  level, 
and  is  remarkably  open.  Its  principal  tributaries  (commencing  on 
the  north)  are  the  Pitt,  Feather,  Yuba,  and  American  rivers,  which 
rise  along  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Sacramento  City 
is  the  principal  place  on  the  main  river.  The  San  Joaquin  River  rises 
in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  near  the  centre  of  the  State.  It  flows  south  for 
a  short  distance,  and  then,  meeting  the  outlet  of  Tulare  Lake,  changes 
its  course,  and  flows  north-northwest  into  Suisin  Bay,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sacramento.  It  is  about  350  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  for 
about  200  or  250  miles.  Its  chief  tributaries  rise  in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
They  are-  the-Oakverasp  SkwiflkKis,  /»3E.ut/lii-rn»ej»aiwl'  «:Mereed<  rivers. 


1020  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  Moquelumne  joins  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  at  their  junc- 
tion. It  rises  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  almost  due  east  from  its  mouth. 
The  streams  which  flow  into  the  Pacific  (beginning  on  the  north)  are 
the  Eel  and  Russian  rivers,  above  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  the  Salinas, 
Guiamas,  Santa  Inez,  Santa  Clara,  Santa  Anna,  San  Luis,  San  Diego, 
and  Tia  Juana  rivers — all  small  streams.  The  Colorado  forms  the 
southeast  boundary  of  the  State,  and  the  Klamath  River,  of  Oregon, 
flows  through  the  northwest.  Several  lakes  lie  in  the  State.  The 
principal  are  Tulare,  Clear,  Owen  Mountain,  and  Mono  Lakes.  Tulare 
Lake  is  35  miles  long,  and  empties  its  waters  into  the  San  Joaquin 
River.  The  rest  are  small  lakes. 

MINERALS. 

"  The  great  and  distinguishing  feature  of  California  is,  however,  its 
unexampled  mineral  wealth.  The  first  discoveries  of  gold  were  made 
in  1848,  when  $10,000,000  were  taken  from  the  mines,  increasing  to 
$40,000,000  in  1849,  and  upwards  of  $65,000,000  in  1853.  No  re- 
turns are  made  of  the  quantity  taken  from  the  mines,  and  the  mint 
records  are  the  only  official  data  existing  upon  ^the  product  for  any 
portion  of  the  Pacific  coast.  Various  estimates  have  been  made  by 
mining  engineers,  bankers,  and  other  intelligent  and  practical  business 
men  in  San  Francisco,  and  elsewhere  in  California,  as  to  the  total 
product  of  that  State  since  1848.  These  estimates  vary  from  eight 
hundred  millions  to  one  billion.  From  the  commencement  of  1849  to 
the  close  of  1866,  upward  of  seven  hundred  and  eighty-five  millions 
have  been  manifested  at  San  Francisco  for  exportation,  all  of  which, 
with  the  exception  of  sixty-five  millions,  appears  to  have  been  the 
product  of  California.  How  large  a  portion  of  gold  found  its  way  out 
of  the  State  without  being  manifested  for  exportation,  is,  of  course,  a 
matter  of  conjecture,  different  authorities  estimating  it  from  one  hun- 
dred to  three  hundred  millions.  But  either  estimate  is  sufficient  to 
furnish  an  idea  of  the  immensity  of  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  State. 
Silver  mines  in  the  State  are  comparatively  inconsiderable,  yet  quan- 
tities of  that  metal  are  annually  obtained  by  separating  it  from  gold, 
with  which  it  is,  in  small  portions,  generally  united  when  taken  from 
the  mines.  The  quicksilver  mines  of  California  are  among  the  most 
valuable,  and  have,  since  their  discovery,  materially  contributed  to 
the  prosperity  of  the  mining  interests,  not  only  of  California  and  the 
adjoining  States,  but  also  of  Mexico  and  South  America.  All  the 
useful  metaJs,  such  as  iron,  lead,  copper,  tin,  and  zinc,  exist  in  this 


CALIFORNIA.  1021 

region.  Coal  has  been  discovered  in  different  localities,  and  marble, 
gypsum,  and  valuable  building  stone,  are  abundant.  Some  of  the 
rarer  and  more  valuable  minerals,  as  the  agate,  topaz,  cornelian, 
amethyst,  and,  in  some  instances,  the  diamond,  have  been  found."* 

It  is  stated  that  between  the  years  1849  and  1864,  the  total  amount 
of  treasure  exported  from  California  through  the  Custom  House,  was 
valued  at  $695,684,879,  and  that  the  amount  taken  from  the  State, 
without  being  manifested  at  the  Custom  House,  was  about  $150,000,- 
000,  making  the  total  yield  of  the  State  during  that  period  nearly 
$850,000,000. 

CLIMATE. 

"The  climate  of  California  is  too  much  varied  to  be  considered  us 
a  whole.  It  might  be  regarded  almost  as  a  heterogeneous  mixture  of 
the  tropical  and  the  arctic.  From  the  capital  city  (Sacramento),  under 
the  noonday  sun  of  the  summer  solstice,  with  a  temperature  of  from 
90°  to  100°,  exceeding  the  extreme  summer  heat  of  the  Atlantic 
States,  you  will  see  the  snows  glistening  on  the  Sierras  at  no  great 
distance.  And  by  taking  the  cars  on  the  trans-continental  railroad,  a 
few  hours  travel  will  transport  you  to  an  arctic  landscape.  On  the 
other  hand,  embarking  on  the  steamer  for  San  Francisco,  at  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  travelling  in  the  opposite  direction,  before 
night  you  are  shivering  in  the  cold  sea-breeze  which  sweeps  up  the 
bay.  It  is  not  necessary  to  journey  so  far  in  order  to  experience  the 
same  transition.  You  have  only  to  cross  any  of  the  mountain  walls 
which  separate  the  ocean  and  bay  from  the  interior,  and  which  dam 
out  the  cold  ocean  atmosphere.  There  are  essentially  two  climates  in 
California,  the  land  climate  and  the  sea  climate.  The  latter  derives 
its  low  temperature  from  the  ocean,  the  water  of  which,  along  the 
coast,  stands  at  from  52°  to  54°  all  the  year  round.  The  evenness  of 
the  ocean  temperature  is  owing  to  a  steady  current  from  the  north, 
which  is  accompanied  also  by  winds  in  the  same  direction  during  the 
entire  summer  season,  or  rather  from  April  to  October,  inclusive. 
Almost  daily,  during  this  period,  a  deluge  of  cold,  damp  air,  of  the 
same  temperature  as  the  ocean  over  which  it  has  passed,  is  poured 
upon  the  land.  It  is  mostly  laden  with  mist,  in  dense  clouds,  which 
it  deposits  at  the  foot-hills,  and  on  the  slopes  of  the  highlands,  or  car- 
ries a  short  distance  into  the  interior,  wherever  there  is  a  break  in  the 

*  Keport  of  the  General  Land-Office. 


1022  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

land  wall.  The  land  climate  is  as  nearly  as  possible  the  opposite  in 
every  respect.  In  summer  and  autumn  it  is  hot  and  dry.  It  under- 
goes various  modifications  from  the  configuration  of  the  surface  of  the 
earth.  Even  the  mountains,  which  retain  the  snow  to  a  late  period, 
present  a  high  temperature  in  the  middle  of  the  day  ;  and  the  presence 
of  snow  on  their  summits,  in  June,  is  owing  to  the  great  mass  which 
has  accumulated  on  them,  rather  than  to  cold  weather.  A  large  dis- 
trict of  territory  lies  between  the  jurisdiction  of  the  two  climates,  and 
subject  to  their  joint  influence.  It  is  composed  chiefly  of  valleys  sur- 
rounding the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  penetrating  into  the  interior 
in  every  direction.  There  is  no  climate  in  the  world  more  delightful 
than  these  valleys  enjoy,  and  no  territory  more  productive.  Whilst 
the  ocean  prevents  the  contiguous  land  from  being  scorched  in  summer, 
it  also  prevents  it  from  being  frozen  in  winter.  Hence,  ice  and  snow 
are  not  common  in  the  ocean  climate.  The  difference  in  temperature 
is  comparatively  slight  between  summer  and  winter.  .  .  .  . 
The  absence  of  warm  weather  in  the  summer  months  is  characteristic 
of  the  coast  climate,  and  strikes  a  stranger  forcibly.  The  most  ordi- 
nary programme  of  this  climate  for  the  year  is  as  follows,  beginning 
with  the  rainy  season :  The  first  decided  rains  are  in  November  or 
December,  when  the  country,  after  having  been  parched  with  drought, 
puts  on  the  garb  of  spring.  In  January,  the  rains  abate  and  vege- 
tation advances  slowly,  with  occasional  slight  frosts.  February  is 
spring-like,  with  but  little  rain.  March  and' April  are  pleasant  and 
showery,  with  an  occasional  hot  day.  In  May  the  sea-breeze  begins, 
but  does  not  give  much  annoyance.  In  June,  just  as  warm  weather 
is  about  to  set  in,  the  sea-breeze  comes  daily,  and  keeps  down  the 
temperature.  It  continues  through  July  and  August,  occasionally 
holding  up  for  a  day  or  two,  and  permitting  the  sun  to  heat  the  air  to 
the  sweating  point.  In  September,  the  sea-wind  moderates,  and  there 
is  a  slight  taste  of  summer,  which  is  prolonged  into  the  next  month. 
The  pleasant  weather  often  lingers  in  the  lap  of  winter,  and  is  inter- 
rupted only  by  the  rains  of  November  or  December."  * 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

The  soil  of  the  valleys  is  fertile,  and  produces  liberal  crops.  In 
the  districts  where  water  is  scarce  it  does  not  yield  so  well.  The 
mountain  lands  are  generally  poor  and  unfit  for  cultivation. 

*  The  Natural  Wealth  of  California.    By  T.  F.  Oronise. 


CALIFORNIA.  1023 

"  The  soil  and  climate  of  California,  are  eminently  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  wheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  hops,  tobacco,  hay,  and  sor- 
ghum ;  in  certain  localities,  to  corn,  cotton,  the  southern  sugar-cane, 
to  almost  every  variety  of  garden  vegetables  cultivated  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains ;  to  the  apple,  pear,  plum,  cherry,  apricot,  necta- 
rine, quince,  fig,  and  grape;  and  along  the  southern  coast,  to  the 
orange,  lemon,  citron,  olive,  pomegranate,  aloe,  filbert,  walnut,  hard 
and  soft-shell  almond,  currants,  prunes,  pine-apples,  and  the  plantain, 
banana,  cocoa-nut,  and  indigo.  Strawberries,  raspberries,  blackberries, 
gooseberries,  figs,  grapes,  and  the  hardier  fruits,  as  the  apple,  peach, 
and  pear,  succeed  well  in  every  portion  of  the  State.  There  are  very 
few  parts  of  the  world  where  fruit-trees  grow  so  rapidly,  bear  so  early, 
so  regularly,  so  abundantly,  and  produce  fruit  of  such  size,  and  where 
so  great  a  variety  can  be  produced,  and  of  such  superior  quality,  as  on 
the  southern  coast  of  California.  The  pear  is  more  especially  the  fruit- 
tree  of  California.  It  thrives  in  all  parts  of  the  State;  neither  tree 
nor  fruit  is  subject  to  any  form  of  disease,  the  fruit  being  everywhere 
of  delicious  flavor  and  large  size.  Some  trees  produce  annually  40 
bushels  of  pears.  The  varied  climate  on  the  Pacific,  its  freedom  from 
frosts,  severe  cold,  and  furious  storms,  give  it  special  advantages  as  a 
fruit-growing  region ;  and  although  the  trees  grow  more  rapidly  and 
bear  much  earlier  than  on  the  Atlantic,  they  are  not  subject  to  early 
decay.  The  fruit-trees  of  the  missions,  many  of  them  30  and  40  years 
old,  are  still  in  excellent  condition,  and  full  bearing,  not  having 
failed  at  any  season  during  the  past  20  years  to  produce  good  crops. 
Experience  has  established  the  fact,  that  the  climate  and  soil  of  Cali- 
fornia are  equal  to  any  in  the  world  in  their  adaptation  to  grape  cul- 
ture and  the  manufacture  of  wine.  The  yield  of  the  grape  has 
been  larger,  its  freedom  from  disease  greater,  than  in  the  most  cele- 
brated European  vineyards.  Three  hundred  varieties  have  been 
already  successfully  cultivated,  including  the  choice  foreign  wine-pro- 
ducing grapes;  and  so  diversified  are  the  soil  and  climate  that  all 
wines  can  be  produced  here,  and  even  superior  in  quality  to  the  im- 
ported. The  vine  in  California  is  not  subject  to  the  oidium  or  grape 
disease,  frequently  so  destructive  in  other  countries,  nor  is  it  liable 
to  mildew.  The  vineyards  of  the  State  seldom,  or  never,  yield 
less  than  1000  pounds  of  grapes  per  acre,  and  even  20,000  pounds 
have  been  produced.  The  crops  are  regular  every  year,  and  as  there 
are  neither  severe  frosts,  nor  hail,  rain,  nor  thunder-storms,  from  the 
budding  of  the  vines  until  the  grape  is  gathered,  they  are  not  liable  to 


1024 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


HYDIIATJLIC 


the  accidents  and  drawbacks  attending  them  in  other  places,  [n 
Europe,  the  vine  is  trained  with  a  stock  four  feet  high,  and  supported 
by  a  pole  put  up  every  year  to  which  the  vine  is  fastened.  In  Cali- 
fornia it  stands  alone,  the  labor  thus  far  being  nothing  compared  with 
that  bestowed  upon  the  best  European  vineyards.  The  number  of 
vines  already  set,  all  of  which  will  be  in  full  bearing  in  three  years,  is 
estimated  at  nearly  thirty  millions.  In  1863,  the  total  number 
planted  in  vineyards,  in  the  State,  was  nearly  three  and  a  half  millions, 
showing  an  increase  of  25,000,000  in  four  years.  Hock,  champagne, 
port  and  claret,  constitute  the  varieties  of  wine  already  exported.  No 
doubt  is  entertained  that  when  the  California  wine-makers  have  had 
the  necessary  experience,  and  their  wines  have  attained  sufficient  age, 
they  will  take  rank  with  the  very  best,  and  that  its  manufacture  on 
the  Pacific  coast  is  destined  to  become  of  vast  importance,  while  series 
of  vineyards,  stretching  from  San  Diego  to  Mount  Shasta,  will  within 
another  quarter  of  a  century  add  not  only  beauty,  but  substantial 
wealth  to  the  State.  Among  the  fruits  cultivated  on  the  southern 
coast  during  the  present  year,  have  been  the  orange,  lemon,  fig,  lime, 
the  English  walnut,  almond,  olive,  apricot,  and  nectarine,  numbering 


CALIFORNIA.  1025 

in  the  aggregate  between  400,000  and  500,000  trees,  in  a  greater  or 
less  state  of  maturity.  The  cultivation  of  these  and  other  fruits  is 
rapidly  extending  in  California  with  marked  success/'  * 

In  1870,  there  were  about  2,500,000  acres  of  improved  or  culti- 
vated land  in  the  State.  In  the  same  year,  the  returns  were  as 
follows  : 

Bushels  of  wheat, 21,500,000 

barley, •    .  8,000,000 

"           oats, 1,200,000 

•rye, 16,000 

"           Indian  corn,    . 1,000,000 

buckwheat, 10,000 

"           peas  and  beans, 214,000 

peanuts, 78,000 

"          Irish  potatoes, 1,400,000 

Tons  of  hay, 350,000 

Pounds  of  hops, 570,000 

"           butter, 5,000,000 

"           cheese, 3,000,000 

Gallons  of  wine, 4,000,000 

"          brandy,        300,000 

Value  of  agricultural  products, $89,000,000 

Number  of  horses, 209,000 

"          asses  and  mules, 24,000 

"           cattle, 500,000 

-"           sheep, 2,200,000 

swine, •    .  412,000 

Pounds  of  wool  (estimated), 5,000,000 

Stock-raising  forms  an  important  part  of  the  industry  of  California, 
the  climate  being  exceedingly  favorable  to  it.  Large  numbers  of 
horses,  mules,  oxen,  beef-cattle,  cows  and  sheep,  are  raised  in  the 
interior. 

COMMERCE. 

The  City  of  San  Francisco  is  the  only  port  of  any  consequence  in 
the  State,  but  its  situation  is  such  as  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant places  in  the  world.  It  is  the  great  centre  of  the  growing 
commerce  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  occupies  the  same  commercial 
position  on  the  western  coast  of  the  Republic  that  New  York  does  on 
the  Eastern.  The  following  statement  will  show  the  proportions 
which  its  commerce  has  assumed  : 

"TRADE  AND  COMMERCE  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO,  for  the  first  six 

*  The  Natural  Wealth  of  California.    By  T.  F.  Cronise. 
65 


1026  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

months  of  1868  : — Imports  from  foreign  countries,  $8,000,000  gold  ; 
from  the '  Atlantic  States,  $22,457,000,  currency ;  an  increase  of 
$8,000,000  over  the  same  period  last  year.  The  exports  were— mer. 
chandise,  $11,000,000;  coin,  $20,000,000;  total,  $31,000,000  gold. 
The  duties  on  imports  amounted  to  $4,028,522,  and  the  receipts  of 
internal  revenue,  $3,000,000.  During  these  six  months,  1550  vessels 
arrived,  bringing  500,000  ,tons  of  freight.  The  arrivals  of  passengers 
by  sea  were  32,186 ;  departures,  11,367;  net  gain,  20,819.  Of  the 
$5,448,000  of  merchandise  shipped  the  first  quarter  of  1868,  §4,316,- 
000  was  for  some  50  articles  of  California  produce,  the  principal  items 
of  which  were  as  follows:  wheat,  $2,452,000;  flour,  $836,000; 
barley,  $37,000  ;  beans,  $13,000 ;  potatoes,  $9000;  borax,  $10,000 ; 
quicksilver,  $387,000;  ores,  $78,000;  hides  and  skins,  $116,000; 
wool,  $186,000;  leather,  $41,000;  wine,  $42,000 ;  brandy,  $9000 ; 
and  bread,  $12,000.  The  gold  deposits  at  the  San  Francisco  Branch 
Mint  during  the  first  three  months  of  1868,  amounted  to  60,000 
ounces,  and  the  coinage  to  $1,312,000.  The  total  exports  of  treasure 
for  the  first  quarter  of  the  past  three  years  have  been  as  follows : 
1866,  $9,532,544  ;  1867,  $9,825,304  ;  1868,  $10,540,415.  The  ex- 
ports of  merchandise  for  1867  were  $22,465,903 ;  and  of  treasure, 
$41,676,722.16.  About  $6,000,000  was  shipped  east  by  the  United 
States  sub-treasurer,  making  the  total,  $47,676,292,  and  the  aggregate 
of  treasure  and  merchandise,  $70,142,195.  The  total  amount  of 
treasure  exported  from  1849  to  1868,  was  $826,873,738.11."  * 

In  1869,  the  imports  of  the  State  were  valued  at  $51,604,000, 
$36,104,000  being  from  the  Atlantic  ports  of  the  Union,  and  $15,- 
500,000  from  foreign  countries.  The  exports  for  the  same  period, 
exclusive  of  treasure,  were  upwards  of  $23,000,000.  The  arrivals 
of  vessels  at  San  Francisco  during  1869  were  as  follows:  From 
Atlantic  ports  of  the  United  States,  146  ;  from  foreign  ports,  3524  ; 
from  Pacific  ports  of  the  United  States,  2904. 

MANUFACTURES. 

California  is  making  rapid  progress  in  manufactures.  In  1860,  the 
capital  invested  in  them  was  $22,051,096,  and  the  annual  product, 
$68,253,228.  In  1868,  the  reports  of  the  assessors  showed  a  very 
heavy  advance  upon  these  figures.  Over  one  million  barrels  of  flour 
were  produced.  The  woollen  goods  of  the  State  have  taken  a  high 

*  American  Year  Book,  vol.  i.  p.  293. 


CALIFORNIA.  1027 

rank  in  the  markets  of  the  world,  and  nearly  the  whole  demand  of  the 
Pacific  coast  for  manufactured  articles  is  supplied  by  the  establish- 
ments of  this  State,  and  many  of  its  goods  are  exported  to  Asia, 
Mexico,  and  Central  and  South  America.  In  1869,  the  manufactures 
of  the  State  were  valued  at  $75,000,000. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  1868,  there  were  321  miles  of  completed  railroads  in  the  State, 
constructed  at  a  cost  of  $24,200,000.  The  Pacific  Railway,  now  in 
operation,  extends  from  Sacramento  City  eastward  into  Nevada,  with 
connecting  lines  from  Sacramento  to  San  Francisco  and  other  points. 
The  railroad  interest  of  the  State  is  rapidly  advancing,  and  will  soon 
be  equal  to  its  necessities.  In  1872,  there  were  1013  miles  of  com- 
pleted railroads  in  the  State. 

In  1865,  there  were  in  California  491  miles  of  turnpike,  62  toll 
bridges,  and  78  ferries.  The  principal  rivers  are  navigated  by 
steamers,  and  stage  routes  extend  through  the  most  important  parts 
of  the  State,  not  otherwise  connected. 

EDUCATION. 

California  has  been  very  energetic  in  the  cause  of  education.  The 
school  system  of  the  State  is  under  the  supervision  of  a  Superintendent 
of  Public  Instruction,  who  is  elected  by  the  people  for  four  years.  He 
is  the  executive  officer  of  the  State  Board  of  Education,  which  con- 
sists of  the  Governor,  the  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction,  the 
principal  of  the  State  Normal  School,  the  Superintendents  of  schools 
in  San  Francisco,  and  in  Sacramento,  Santa  Clara,  and  San  Joaquin 
counties,  and  two  professional  teachers  holding  State  diplomas.  The 
counties  are  under  the  supervision  of  County  Superintendents,  elected 
for  two  years.  Each  school  district  is  managed  by  a  Board  of  Di- 
rectors, elected  by  the  people.  Certificates  of  competency  for  terms 
.varying  from  the  lifetime  of  the  holder  to  one  year,  are  granted  by  the 
State,  City,  and  County  Boards  of  Examiners. 

There  is  a  State  Normal  School  in  successful  operation.  There  are 
six  colleges  in  California.  The  State  University  is  located  at  Oak- 
land. It  was  established  in  1855,  and  is  liberally  endowed. 

The  permanent  school  fund  amounts  to  about  $800,000,  and  yields 
an  income  of  over  $50,000  per  annum.  In  1867,  the  total  amount 
expended  by  the  State  for  educational  purposes  was  $1,168,583. 

In  1870,  there  were  1342  public  schools  in  the  State,  conducted  by 
1883  teachers,  and  attended  by  75,527  pupils. 


1028  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  public  schools  of  San  Francisco  are  distinct  from  those  of  the 
State,  but  are  included  in  the  above  statement. 

PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS. 

The  State  Prison  is  located  at  San  Quentin.  It  is  well  conducted, 
but  is  in  need  of  enlarged  accommodations.  In  1867,  there  were  692 
convicts  confined  here. 

The  Insane  Asylum  of  California  is  at  Stockton.  It  was  opened  in 
1851.  In  October,  1867,  it  contained  769  patients. 

The  California  Institution  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb  and  Blind  is  at  San 
Francisco.  It  was  opened  in  1866,  and  in  October,  1867,  contained 
48  pupils. 

The  State  Reform  School  is  at  Marysville,  and  is  in  successful  ope- 
ration. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  532  churches  in  California.  The  value  of 
church  property  was  $7,404,235.  The  State  contains  large  numbers 
of  Chinese  settlers,  who  are  Pagans. 

LIBRARIES    AND    NEWSPAPERS. 

The  libraries  of  California  (other  than  private  collections)  contain 
about  200,000  volumes,  more  or  less. 

In  1870,  there  were  published  in  the  State,  197  newspapers,  and 
4  magazines,  with  an  aggregate  annual  circulation  of  47,472,756 
copies.  Of  these,  141  were  political  (28  being  dailies),  14  religious, 
18  literary  and  miscellaneous. 

FINANCES. 

In  November,  1870,  the  public  debt  of  the  State  was  about  $7,- 
000,000.  The  receipts  of  the  Treasury  for  the  fiscal  year  ending 
June  30th,  1870,  were  $3,508,164,  and  the  expenditures  for  the  same 
period,  $3,814,037. 

All  financial  transactions  in  this  State  are  in  coin,  or  its  equivalent. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  every  white  male 
citizen  of  Mexico,  who  has  become  a  citizen  of  the  United  States 
according  to  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  Queretaro  (May  20th,  1848), 


CALIFORNIA.  1029 

who  is  21  years  old,  and  has  resided  in  the  State  six  months  and  in 
the  county  thirty  days,  is  entitled  to  vote  at  the  elections. 

The  Government  is  vested  in  a  Governor,  Lieutenant-Governor, 
Secretary,  Treasurer,  Comptroller,  and  Attorney-General,  and  a  Legis- 
lature consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  40  members),  and  a  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives (of  80  members),  all  chosen  by  the  people.  The  State  offi- 
cers and  Senators  are  elected  for  four  years,  and  Representatives  for 
two  years.  One-half  of  the  Senators  retire  biennially.  The  general 
election  is  held  in  September,  and  the  Legislature  meets  biennially 
in  December. 

The  judicial  power  of  the  State  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  Dis- 
trict Courts,  County  Courts,  and  in  Justices  of  the  Peace.  All  judges 
are  elected  by  the  people.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  a  Chief 
Justice  and  four  Associate  Justices,  elected  for  10  years.  Judges  of 
the  District  Courts  serve  6  years,  and  those  of  the  County  Courts 
4  years. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  established  at  Sacramento. 

The  State  is  divided  into  50  counties. 

HISTORY. 

The  term  California  is  said  by  some  writers  to  be  derived  from 
two  Spanish  words,  Caliente  fornalla,  or  homo,  and  to  mean  simply 
"  a  hot  furnace."  Other  writers  question  this  derivation.  The 
Spaniards  divided*  the  country  into  two  portions — Old  California, 
which  was  then,  as  now,  merely  the  Peninsula ;  and  Upper,  or  New 
California,  which  included  the  present  States  of  California  and  Nevada, 
and  the  greater  part  of  New  Mexico. 

"California  was  discovered  in  1548,  by  Cabrillo,  a  Spanish  navi- 
gator. In  1758,  Sir  Francis  Drake  visited  its  northern  coast,  and 
named  the  country  New  Albion.  The  original  settlements  in  Cali- 
fornia were  mission  establishments,  founded  by  Catholic  priests  for 
the  conversion  of  the  natives.  In  1769,  the  mission  of  San  Diego 
was  founded  by  Padre  Junipero  Serra. 

''The  mission  establishments  were  made  of  adobe,  or  sun-burnt 
bricks,  and  contained  commodious  habitations  for  the  priests,  store- 
houses, offices,  mechanic  shops,  granaries,  horse  and  cattle  pens,  and 
apartments  for  the  instruction  of  Indian  youth.  Around  and  attached 
to  each,  were,  varying  in  different  missions,  from  a  few  hundred  to 
several  thousand  Indians,  who  generally  resided  in  conical-shaped 
huts  in  the  vicinity,  their  place  of  dwelling  being  generally  called  the 


1030  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

rancheria.  Attached  to  each  mission  were  a  few  soldiers,  for  protec- 
tion against  hostilities  from  the  Indians. 

"  The  missions  extended  their  possessions  from  one  extreme  of  the 
territory  to  that  of  the  other,  and  bounded  the  limits  of  one  mission 
by  that  of  the  next,  and  so  on.  Though  they  did  not  require  so  much 
land  for  agriculture,  and  the  maintenance  of  their  stock,  they  appro- 
priated the  whole;  always  strongly  opposing  any  individual  who 
might  wish  to  settle  on  any  land  between  them.  All  the  missions 
were  under  the  charge  of  the  priests  of  the  order  of  San  Francisco. 
Each  mission  was  under  one  of  the  fathers,  who  had  despotic  authority. 
The  general  products  of  the  missions  were  large  cattle,  sheep,  horses, 
Indian  corn,  beans  and  peas.  Those  in  the  southern  part  of  California, 
produced  also  the  grape  and  olive  in  abundance.  The  most  lucrative 
product  was  the  large  cattle,  their  hides  and  tallow  affording  an  active 
commerce  with  foreign  vessels,  and  being,  indeed,  the  main  support 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  territory.  From  1800  to  1830  the  missions 
were  in  the  height  of  their  prosperity.  Then,  each  mission  was  a 
little  principality,  with  its  hundred  thousand  acres,  and  its  twenty 
thousand  head  of  cattle.  All  the  Indian  population,  except  the 
'Gentiles7  of  the  mountains,  were  the  subjects  of  the  padres,  cultivat- 
ing for  them  their  broad  lands,  and  reverencing  them  with  devout 
faith.  The  wealth  and  power  in  possession  of  the  missions,  excited 
the  jealousy  of  the  Mexican  authorities.  In  1833,  the  Government 
commenced  a  series  of  decrees,  which  eventually  ruined  them.  In 
1845,  the  obliteration  of  the  missions  was  completed  by  their  sale  at 
auction,  and  otherwise. 

"  Aside  from  the  missions,  in  California,  the  inhabitants  were  nearly 
all  gathered  in  the  presidios,  or  forts,  and  in  the  villages,  called  lLos 
Pueblos.'  The  presidios,  or  fortresses,  were  occupied  by  a  few  troops 
under  the  command  of  a  military  prefect  or  governor.  The  Padre 
President,  or  Bishop,  was  the  supreme  civil,  military  and  religious 
ruler  of  the  province.  There  were  four  presidios  in  Calafornia,  each 
of  which  had  under  its  protection  several  missions.  They  were  respec- 
tively, San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara,  Monterey,  and  San  Francisco. 
Within  four  or  five  leagues  of  the  presidios,  were  certain  farms,  called 
rancMos,  which  were  assigned  for  the  use  of  the  garrisons,  and  as  de- 
positories of  the  cattle  and  grain  which  were  furnished  as  taxes  from 
the  missions.  Los  Pueblos,  or  towns,  grew  up  near  the  missions. 
Their  first  inhabitants  consisted  of  retired  soldiers  and  attache's  of  the 
army,  many  of  whom  married  Indian  women.  Of  the  villages  of  this 


CALIFORNIA.  1031 

description,  there  were  but  three,  viz :  Los  Angelos,  San  Jose,  and 
Brariciforte.  In  later  times,  the  American  emigrants  established  one 
on  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  called  Yerba  Buena,  i.  e.y  good  herb, 
which  became  the  nucleus  of  the  flourishing  city  of  San  Francisco. 
Another  was  established  by  Captain  Sutter,  on  the  Sacramento,  called 
New  Helvetia.  The  larger  pueblos  were  under  the  government  of 
an  alcalde,  or  judge,  in  connection  with  other  municipal  officers. 

"  The  policy  of  the  Catholic  priests,  who  held  absolute  sway  in 
California  until  1833,  was  to  discourage  emigration.  Hence,  up  to 
about  the  year  1840,  the  villages  named  comprised  all  in  California, 
independent  of  those  at  the  missions ;  and  at  that  time,  the  free  whites 
and  half-breed  inhabitants  in  California  numbered  less  than  6000 
souls.  The  emigration  from  the  United  States  first  commenced  in  1838  ; 
this  had  so  increased  from  year  to  year,  that,  in  1846,  Colonel  Fre- 
mont had  but  little  difficulty  in  calling  to  his  aid  some  five  hundred 
fighting  men.  Some  few  resided  in  the  towns,  but  a  majority  were 
upon  the  Sacramento,  where  they  had  immense  droves  of  cattle  and 
horses,  and  fine ,  farms,  in  the  working  of  which  they  were  aided  by 
the  Indians.  They  were  eminently  an  enterprising  and  courageous 
body  of  people,  as  none  other  at  that  time  would  brave  the  perils  of 
an  overland  journey  across  the  mountains.  In  the  ensuing  hostilities 
they  rendered  important  services.  At  that  period,  the  trade  carried  on 
at  the  different  towns  was  quite  extensive,  and  all  kinds  of  dry  goods, 
groceries  and  hardware,  owing  to  the  heavy  duties,  ranged  about  500 
per  cent,  above  the  prices  in  the  United  States.  Mechanics  and  ordinary 
hands  received  from  two  to  five  dollars  per  day.  The  commerce  was 
quite  extensive,  15  or  20  vessels  not  unfrequently  being  seen  in  the 
various  ports  at  the  same  time.  Most  of  the  merchant  vessels  were 
from  the  United  States,  which  arrived  in  the  spring,  and  engaged  in 
the  coasting  trade  until  about  the  beginning  of  winter,  when  they  de- 
parted with  cargoes  of  hides,  tallow,  or  furs,  which  had  been  collected 
during  the  previous  year.  Whale  ships  also  touched  at  the  port  for 
supplies  and  to  trade,  and  vessels  from  various  parts  of  Europe,  the. 
Sandwich  Islands,  the  Russian  settlements,  and  China." 

The  Mexican  revolution  of  1822  overthrew  the  Spanish  power  in 
California,  and  made  it  a  province  of  Mexico.  The  Government  of 
that  country  directed  its  efforts  to  the  task  of  secularizing  the  province, 
and  finally  stripped  the  fathers  of  their  possessions  and  power.  Severe 
measures  were  also  practised  towards  the  laity,  and  several  efforts  were 
made  by  the  Californians  to  throw  off  the  Mexican  yoke,  and  establish 


1032  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

their  independence.  They  were  finally  quieted,  and  emigrants  began 
to  come  out  to  the  territory  in  great  numbers.  During  the  years 
1843,  1844,  1845,  and  1846,  the  emigration  was  especially  large,  a 
very  great  proportion  of  the  new  settlers  coming  from  the  United 
States. 

Early  in  1846,  a  quarrel  broke  out  between  the  authorities  and  the 
American  settlers.  The  Mexican  commander  undertook  to  expel  the 
American  settlers,  who  at  once  flew  to  arms,  under  the  lead  of  Colonel 
John  C.  Fremont.  By  a  series  of  bold  and  rapid  movements  the 
Americans  made  themselves  masters  of*  the  greater  part  of  the  country, 
and  proclaimed  their  independence  of  Mexico.  At  this  juncture  an 
American  squadron,  under  Commodore  Stockton,  arrived  on  the  coast 
with  news  of  the  declaration  of  war  between  the  United  States  and 
Mexico.  Several  conflicts  now  occurred  between  the  Americans  and 
the  Mexicans,  the  result  being  generally  in  favor  of  the  former,  and 
at  the  close  of  the  war  the  greater  part  of  the  territory  was  held  by 
the  United  States.  By  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  peace,  Mexico  ceded 
the  territory  of  California  to  the  United  States  for  the  sum  of  $15,- 
000,000.  The  white  population  was  now  about  15,000. 

In  February,  1848,  gold  was  discovered  on  the  farm  of  Colonel 
Sutter,  in  Coloma  county,  and  it  was  soon  found  that  the  precious 
metal  was  widely  distributed  all  over  the  State.  An  enormous  emi- 
gration at  once  set  in  from  all  parts  of  North  and  South  America, 
from  Europe,  and  from  China.  In  about  a  year,  the  population  of 
the  territory  was  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  million.  A  more  reckless, 
daring,  dangerous  body  of  men  never  collected  in  any  part  of  the 
world.  An  organized  government  became  a  necessity. 

General  Riley,  the  military  governor  of  the  territory,  summoned  a 
convention  to  meet  at  Monterey,  on  the  1st  of  September,  1849.  This 
convention  adopted  a  Constitution,  which  was  ratified  by  the  popular 
vote,  and  on  the  9th  of  September,  1850,  California  was  admitted 
into  the  Union  as  a  sovereign  State. 

The  first  years  of  the  new  State  were  marked  by  excessive  violence 
and  disorder.  The  principal  classes  of  the  inhabitants  were  the  miners 
and  gamblers.  Crime  of  all  kinds  increased  with  frightful  rapidity. 
In  San  Francisco  especially,  neither  life  nor  property  was  safe.  The 
authorities  were  either  in  league  with  the  criminals,  or  incompetent 
to  the  task  of  putting  a  stop  to  the  outrages  from  which  the  commun- 
ity suffered ;  and  in  1855  the  citizens  took  the  law  into  their  own 
hands,  organized  a  "  vigilance  committee,"  and  by  a  rigorous  admiuis- 


CALIFORNIA.  1033 

tration  of  justice  brought  the  city  to  a  condition  of  peace  and  order 
Since  then  it  has  never  flagged  in  its  career  of  prosperity. 

The  growth  of  the  State  has  been  unprecedentedly  rapid,  and  is  now 
not  far  behind  the  most  prosperous  Atlantic  communities.  The 
Pacific  Railroad  is  doing  much  to  build  it  up,  and  by  bringing  it 
nearer,  in  point  of  time,  to  the  East,  will  enable  it  to  acquire  with 
still  greater  facility  those  refining  and  ennobling  elements  of  civiliza- 
tion, without  which  its  material  prosperity  would  be  comparatively 
worthless. 

CITIES   AND   TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  most  important  places  in  the  State  are,  San 
Francisco,  San  Jose',  Marysville,  Stockton,  Nevada,  Grass  Valley, 
Petaluma,  Yreka,  Placerville,  and  Oakland. 

SACRAMENTO, 

The  capital  and  second  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  the  county  of 
the  same  name,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sacramento  River,  a  short 
distance  below  the  mouth  of  the  American  River,  75  miles  in  an  air 
line  northeast  of  San  Francisco,  and  120  miles  by  the  river  from  that 
city-  Latitude  38°  34'  N.,  longitude  121°  26'  W.  The  city  lies  in 
a  level  plain,  arid  is  regularly  laid  out.  It  has  been  raised  ten  feet 
above  its  original  level,  in  order  to  protect  it  against  the  floods  of  the 
two  rivers,  and  for  its  further  security  an  artificial  wall  has  been  built 
around  the  American  River,  4  feet  above  high  water  in  the  Sacramento  ; 
the  work  cost  $250,000.  Sacramento  has  suffered  severely  from 
freshets,  the  most  disastrous  being  that  of  1861—62,  in  which  large 
amounts  of  property  were  destroyed. 

The  street  next  to  the  river  is  called  Front  Street,  the  next  Second 
Street,  and  so  on ;  the  streets  crossing  these  at  right  angles  are  named 
from  the  letters  of  the  Alphabet.  The  numbered  streets  run  north 
and  south.  The  city  is  about  3  miles  in  length,  and  is  divided  into 
four  wards.  The  principal  business  houses  lie  within  the  portion 
bounded  by  Fifth,  Sixth,  H,  and  L  streets.  In  the  business  portion, 
the  houses  are  built  principally  of  brick.  The  dwellings  are  mostly 
of  wood,  and  many  are  provided  with  handsome  grounds. 

The  principal  building  is  the  new  Capitol,  which  promises  to  be 
when  completed  the  most  magnificent  edifice  in  the  West,  and  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  Union.  The  Court  House,  now  used  as  a  State 
House,  is  a  hlandsome  building.  The  State  Agricultural  Pavilion^ 


1034  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

erected  by  the  citizens  of  Sacramento  for  the  annual  fairs  of  the  State 
Agricultural  Society,  is  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  California. 

The  benevolent  and  charitable  institutions  embrace  several  noble 
societies  for  doing  good.  Among  these  are  the  County  Hospital,  and 
the  Howard  Society. 

The  schools  of  the  city  are  excellent.  There  are  about  11  public 
schools,  and  about  8  or  10  private  schools,  including  the  Sacramento 
College  and  3  Female  Seminaries.  There  are  3  public  libraries  in  the 
city,  containing  nearly  40,000  volumes.  The  State  Library  contains 
over  20,000  volumes.  Three  daily  newspapers  are  published  here. 
The  city  contains  12  or  13  churches,  and  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is 
governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870,  the  population  was 

16,283. 

Sacramento  is  the  largest  inland  city  of  California,  and  is  admirably 
situated  for  trade.  It  can  be  reached  by  steamers  and  sailing  vessels 
throughout  the  entire  year.  The  Sacramento  and  its  tributary  the 
Feather  River  are  navigable  for  small  'steamers  above  the  city  for  a 
considerable  distance.  Sacramento,  in  consequence  of  its  position,  has 
become  the  point  of  supply  for  the  great  mining  region  of  the  State.  It 
is  connected  with  Sail  Francisco  by  railway,  and  is  the  western  terminus 
of  the  Central  Pacific  Railway,  the  eastern  terminus  of  that  road 
being  near  Salt  Lake  City,  in  Utah  Territory.  Railways  to  several 
parts  of  the  State  are  under  construction. 

Sacramento  was  founded  in  the  Spring  of  1849,  the  central  part  of 
the  town  being  one  mile  below  Slitter's  Fort.  It  was  originally  called 
Nueva  Helvetia. 

SAN  FKANCISCO, 

The  metropolis  of  the  State,  is  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  the  bay 
of  the  same  name,  in  the  county  of  San  Francisco,  75  miles  in  an  air 
line  southwest  of  Sacramento,  and  2500  miles  in  an  air  line  from 
Richmond,  Ya.,  which  is  in  about  the  same  latitude.  Latitude  37° 
47'  35"  N.,  longitude  122°  26'  15"  W. 

The  city  is  located  in  a  plain  which  slopes  gently  towards  the  bay, 
and  is  bounded  by  a  number  of  hills  at  the  back.  The  soil  is  sandy, 
and  to  the  north  are  numerous  sand-hills.  The  city  is  regularly  laid 
off,  the  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  Montgomery 
street  is  the  leading  thoroughfare,  and  presents  a  handsome  and 
attractive  spectacle.  California  street  is  devoted  to  banking,  broker- 
age, and  insurance  offices.  On  Stockton  and  Dupont  streets,  in  the 


CALIFORNIA.  1035 

southern  part  of  the  city,  are  to  be  found  many  handsome  residences. 
The  first  buildings  of  San  Francisco  were  entirely  of  wood,  but 
since  the  destructive  fires  that  have  several  times  laid  the  greater 
part  of  the  city  in  ashes,  brick  and  iron  have  been  extensively  used, 
and  the  more  thickly  settled  portions  are  now  substantially  built. 
Many  of  the  business  houses  are  splendid  fire  proof  structures.  The 
city  was  originally  built  around  a  semi-circular  bay,  its  limits,  Clark's 
Point,  on  the  north,  and  Rincon  Point,  on  the  south,  being  but  a 
mile  apart.  This  portion  is  now  built  up  with  heavy  business  houses, 
and  the  shore  is  lined  with  wharves  supported  upon  piles  driven  into 
the  river.  Market  street,  a  broad  avenue,  running  southwest  from 
the  bay,  divides  the  old  and  new  portions  of  the  city.  San  Francisco, 
like  all  the  Pacific  cities,  presents  an  appearance  of  incompleteness, 
though  it  is  rapidly  improving  in  this  respect,  and  is  already  begin- 
ning to  wear  a  metropolitan  air.  Mr.  Samuel  Bowles,  thus  writes 
of  the  city  of  to-day : 

"  This  is  a  very  ridiculous  and  repulsive  town,  in  some  aspects,  and 
a  very  fascinating  and  commendable  one,  in  others,  both  materially 
and  morally,  physically  and  aBsthetically.  Its  youth  is  its  apology  in 
one  regard,  its  wonder  and  its  merit  on  the  other.  The  location  must 
have  been  chosen  for  its  water,  and  not  its  land  privileges.  It  is  set 
upon  the  inside  of  a  range  of  the  purest  sand-hills,  six  or  seven  miles 
wide,  blown  up  from  the  ocean,  and  still  blowing  up,  between  it  and 
the  bay.  The  main  business  streets  are  in  the  hollows,  or  on  the  flat 
land,  made  by  pulling  down  the  sand  from  the  hills.  But  go  out  of 
these  in  any  direction,  and  you  are  confronted  by  steep  hills.  Some 
of  these  are  cut  through,  or  being  cut  through  ;  others  are  scaled,  to 
make  room  for  the  spread  of  the  town.  The  happy  thought  of  winding 
the  streets  about  their  sides,  which  would  have  made  a  very  picturesque 
and  certainly  get-around-able  town,  came  too  late.  If  but  the  early 
San  Franciscans  had  thought  of  Boston,  and  followed  the  cow-paths, 
what  a  unique,  nice  town  they  would  have  made  of  this !  Only  I 
fear  there  never  was  even  an  astray  cow  on  these  virgin  sand-hills,  as 
innocent  of  verdure  as  a  babe  of  sorrow  or  vice.  The  modern  American 
straight  line  style  was  the  order,  no  matter  what  was  in  front ;  and 
the  result  is  that  going  about  San  Francisco  is  all  collar  and  breeching 
work  for  man  and  beast.  The  consequence  is,  also,  there  are  only  two 
or  three  streets  that  you  can  think  of  driving  out  of  town  on.  The 
only  way  to  get  up  and  down  the  others  with  a  horse,  is  to  go  zig-zag 
from  one  side  to  the  other.  Some  of  the  principal  residence  streets 


1036  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

are  after  this  fashion,  however ;  I  found  our  friend,  Rev.  Horatio 
Stebbins,  of  the  Unitarian  Church,  here,  holding  on  by  main  strength 
to  a  side  hill  that  runs  up  at  an  angle  of  something  like  thirty  de- 
grees. And  so  they  run  up  and  down,  and  the  city  is  straggling 
loosely  over  these  hills  for  several  miles  in  all  directions.  Some  of 
the  highest  of  the  knobs  are  being  cut  down,  and  this  leaves  the  early 
houses, — that  is,  those  built  four  or  five  years  ago, — away  up  one 
hundred  feet  or  more  in  the  air,  and  reached  by  long  flights  of  steep 
steps. 

"  Wherever  the  hill-sides  and  tops  are  fastened  with  houses  or 
pavements,  or  twice  daily  seduced  with  water,  there  the  foundations 
are  measurably  secure,  and  the  deed  of  the  purchaser  means  some- 
thing ;  but  all  elsewhere,  all  the  open  lots  and  unpaved  paths  are  still 
undergoing  the  changing  and  creative  process.  The  daily  winds 
swoop  up  the  soil  in  one  place,  and  deposit  it  in  another  in  great 
masses,  like  drifts  of  snow.  You  will  often  find  a  suburban  street 
blocked  up  with  fresh  sand ;  and  the  owner  of  vacant  lots  needs  cer- 
tainly to  pay  them  daily  visits  in  order  to  swear  to  title;  and  the 
chance  is  anyway  that,  between  one  noon  and  another,  he  and  his 
neighbor  will  have  changed  properties  to  an  indefinite  depth.  Inci- 
dental to  all  this,  of  course,  are  clouds  of  sand  and  dust  through  all 
the  residence  and  open  parts  of  the  city,  making  large  market  for  soap 
and  clothes-brushes,  and  putting  neat  housekeepers  quite  in  despair 
for  their  furniture.  Naturally  enough,  there  is  a  looseness  on  the 
subject  of  cleanliness  that  would  shock  your  old-fashioned  New 
England  housewives. 

"  But  then,  as  compensation,  the  winds  give  health, — keeping  the 
town  fresh  and  clean ;  and  the  hills  offer  wide  visions  of  bay  and 
river,  and  islands  and  sister  hills, — away  out  and  on  with  varying  life 
of  shipping,  and  manufactures,  and  agriculture;  and,  hanging  over  all, 
a  sky  of  azure  with  broad  horizons.  Ocean  ward  is  Lone  Mountain 
Cemetery,  covering  one  of  the  hills  with  its  scrawny,  low-running, 
live  oak  shrub  tree,  and  its  white  monuments,  conspicuous  among 
which  are  the  erections  to  those  martyrs  to  both  western  and  eastern 
civilization  and  progress, — Broderick,  the  mechanic  and  senator,  James 
King  of  William,  the  editor,  and  Baker,  the  soldier.  Here  is  the  old 
mission  quarter,  there  the  soldiers'  camp,  yonder,  by  the  water,  the 
bristling  fort,  again  the  conspicuous  and  generous  Orphan  Asylum, 
monument  of  the  tenderness  and  devotion  of  the  women  of  the  city, 
and  to  the  left  of  that  still,  the  two  Jewish  Cemeteries,  each  with  its 


CALIFORNIA.  1037 

appropriate  and  tasteful  burial  chapel.  No  other  American  city 
holds  in  its  very  centre  such  sweeping  views  of  itself  and  its  neighbor- 
hood. 

"  Then  the  little  yards  around  the  dwellings  of  the  prosperous,  even 
of  those  of  moderate  means,  are  made  rich  with  all  the  verdure  of  a 
green-house,  with  only  the  cost  of  daily  watering.  The  most  delicate 
of  evergreens  ;  roses  of  every  grade  and  hue ;  fuchsias  vigorous  and 
high  as  lilac  bushes ;  nasturtiums  sweeping  over  fences  and  up  house 
walls;  flowering  vines  of  delicate  quality,  unknown  in  the  East; 
geraniums  and  salvias,  pansies  and  daisies,  and  all  the  kindred  summer 
flowers  of  New  York  and  New  England,  grow  and  blossom  under 
these  skies,  throughout  the  whole  year, — the  same  in  December  and 
January  as  in  June  and  August, — with  a  richness  and  a  profusion  that 
are  rarely  attained  by  any  out-door  culture  in  the  East.  The  public 
aqueducts  furnish  water,  though  at  considerable  expense,  and  pipes 
convey  and  spread  it  in  fine  spray  all  over  yard  and  garden.  The 
result  is,  every  man's  door-yard  in  the  city  is  like  an  eastern  conser- 
vatory ;  and  little  humble  cottages  smile  out  of  this  city  of  sand- 
hills and  dust,  as  green  and  as  yellow,  and  as  red  and  as  purple,  as 
gayest  of  garden  can  make  them.  There  is  no  aristocracy  of  flowers 
here ;  they  greet  you  everywhere  in  greatest  profusion,  and  are 
tender  solace  to  home-sick  heart,  and  cheap  and  sweet  tonic  to  weary 
brain. 

"  Kindred  contrasts  force  themselves  upon  the  observant  stranger, 
in  the  business  and  social  life  of  the  town.  Some  of  the  finest  quali- 
ties are  mingled  with  others  that  are  both  shabby  and  'shoddy/ 
There  is  sharp,  full  development  of  all  material  powers  and  excellen- 
cies ;  wealth  of  practical  quality  and  force ;  a  recklessness  and  rioting 
with  the  elements  of  prosperity ;  much  dash,  a  certain  chivalric  honor 
combined  with  carelessness  of  word,  of  integrity,  of  consequence ;  a 
sort  of  gambling,  speculating,  horse-jockeying  morality, — born  of  the 
uncertainties  of  mining,  its  sudden  heights,  its  equally  surprising 
depths,  and  the  eager  haste  to  be  rich, — that  all  require  something  of 
a  re-casting  of  relationships,  new  standards,  certainly  new  charities,  in 
order  to  get  the  unaccustomed  mind  into  a  state  of  candor  and  justice. 
People  who  know  they  are  smart  in  the  East,  and  come  out  here 
thinking  to  find  it  easy  wool-gathering,  are  generally  apt  to  go  home 
shorn.  Wall  street  can  teach  Montgomery  street  nothing  in  the  way 
of '  bulling '  and  '  bearing/  and  the  '  corners '  made  here  require  both 
quick  and  long  breath  to  turn  without  faltering. 


1038  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

"  Men  of  mediocre  quality  are  no  better  off  here  than  in  older  cities 
and  States.  Ten  or  fifteen  years  of  stern  chase  after  fortune,  among 
the  mines  and  mountains,  and  against  the  new  nature  of  this  original 
country,  has  developed  men  here  with  a  tougher  and  more  various 
experience  in  all  the  temporalities  of  life,  and  a  wider  resource  for 
fighting  all  sorts  of  ( tigers/  than  you  can  easily  find  among  the 
present  generation  in  the  Eastern  States.  Nearly  all  the  men  of 
means  here  to-day  have  held  long  and  various  struggle  with  fortune, 
failing  once,  twice  or  thrice,  and  making  wide  wreck,  but  buckling  on 
the  armor  again  and  again,  and  trying  the  contest  over  and  over.  So 
it  is  throughout  the  State  and  the  coast ;  I  have  hardly  met  an  old 
emigrant  of  '49  and  '50,  who  has  not  told  me  of  vicissitudes  of  fortune, 
of  personal  trials,  and  hard  work  for  bread  and  life,  that,  half-dreamed 
of  before  coining  here,  he  would  never  have  dared  to  encounter,  and 
which  no  experience  of  persons  in  like  position  in  life  in  the  East  can 
parallel. 

uln  consequence  partly  of  all  this  training,  and  partly  of  the  great 
interests  and  the  wide  regions  to  be  dealt  with,  the  men  I  find  at  the 
head  of  the  great  enterprises  of  this  coast  have  great  business  power, — 
a  wide  practical  reach,  a  boldness,  a  sagacity,  a  vim,  that  I  do  not 
believe  can  be  matched  anywhere  in  the  world.  London  and  New  York 
and  Boston  can  furnish  men  of  more  philosophies  and  theories, — men 
who  have  studied  business  as  a  science  as  well  as  practised  it  as  a 
trade, — but  here  are  the  men  of  acuter  intuitions,  and  more  daring 
natures ;  who  cannot  tell  you  why  they  do  so  and  so,  but  who  will  do 
it  with  a  force  that  commands  success.  Such  men  have  built  up  and 
direct  the  California  Steam  Navigation  Company,  that  is  to  the  waters 
of  this  State  what  the  Oregon  Company  is  to  those  of  that,  commanding 
the  entire  navigation,  and  furnishing  most  unexceptionable  facilities 
for  trade  and  travel ;  the  California  and  Pioneer  Stage  Companies, 
that  equally  command  the  stage  travel  of  the  coast ;  the  woollen  mills 
of  this  city  ;  the  Wells  &  Fargo  Express  Company ;  the  great  machine 
shops  of  Pacific  street ;  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company ;  and  the 
great  private  banking  houses,  of  which  there  are  many  and  most 
prosperous.  Much  British  capital  is  invested  in  banking  here ;  not 
only  in  original  houses,  but  through  branches  of  leading  bankers  in 
London,  India,  and  British  Columbia.  But  chief  of  the  banks  is  the 
Bank  of  California,  with  two  millions  of  capital,  divided  into  only 
forty  shares  of  fifty  thousand  dollars  each,  and  owned  by  fewer  than 
that  number  of  persons,  who  represent  a  total  property  of  thirteen 


CALIFORNIA.  1039 

millions  (gold).  This  institution  does  about  half  the  banking  of  the 
city,  and  its  average  cash  movement  every  steamer  day,  in  shipments 
of  bullion  and  drafts,  is  five  millions  of  dollars.  It  keeps  the  best 
commercial  and  financial  writer  of  the  coast  in  its  employ,  has  agents 
in  all  the  centres  of  productive  wealth  in  the  Pacific  States,  invests, 
directly  or  indirectly,  in  most  of  the  leading  enterprises  of  the  State, 
has  an  eye  out  for  the  politics  and  religion  of  the  country,  and,  to  a 
very  considerable  extent,  '  runs '  California  every  way." 

The  principal  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  fronting  upon  the  Plaza 
or  Portsmouth  square ;  the  United  States  Custom  House,  in  which  is 
located  the  Post  Office ;  the  United  States  Marine  Hospital ;  the  United 
States  District  Court  Building  ;  the  United  States  Mint ;  the  Mercantile 
Library  Building  ;  the  Masonic  and  Odd  Fellows1  Halls.  Some  of  these 
are  elegant  structures,  and  would  do  credit  to  any  eastern  city. 

There  are  upwards  of  50  church  edifices  in  San  Francisco.  Some 
of  these  are  very  handsome,  and  are  among  the  principal  ornaments 
of  the  city. 

There  are  3  High  Schools,  8  Grammar  Schools,  and  24  Primary 
Schools  in  San  Francisco.  The  amount  expended  annually  by  the 
city  for  the  free  education  of  children  averages  about  $210,000.  Some 
of  the  School  buildings  are  among  the  finest  in  the  country.  The 
city  also  contains  about  75  excellent  and  flourishing  private  schools. 
There  are  also  several  public  libraries  in  the  city;  46  newspapers 
and  periodicals  are  published  here :  9  are  daily ;  26  weekly ;  3  tri- 
weekly ;  2  semi-weekly ;  7  monthly ;  and  2  semi-monthly.  These 
include  journals  published  in  the  French,  Spanish,  Italian  and  Ger- 
man languages. 

The  benevolent  and  charitable  institutions  are  numerous,  liberally 
supported,  and  well  conducted.  They  embrace  the  United  States  Marine 
Hospital,  the  State  Institution  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind,  the  City 
and  County  Hospital,  several  Orphan  Asylums,  and  several  societies 
for  the  relief  of  suffering  and  distress. 

The  principal  cemeteries  are  Calvary  and  Lone  Mountain  Cemetery. 
The  latter  is  very  beautiful.  The  Cemetery  of  the  Old  Mission,  a 
few  miles  from  the  city,  is  interesting,  as  is  also  the  Mission  itself.  It 
was  built  in  1776,  and  is  constructed  of  adobe  in  the  old  Spanish  style. 

The  hotels  of  San  Francisco  are  excellent,  and  two  of  these,  the 
Lick  House  and  Occidental  Hotel,  are  among  the  finest  and  best  man- 
aged houses  in  the  Union.  The  principal  houses  are  the  Grand  Lick, 
Occidental,  Euss,  Cosmopolitan,  and  Continental., 


1040  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  places  of  amusement  are  numerous.  There  are  3  first-class 
theatres. 

The  distant  points  of  the  city  are  connected  by  a  street  railway. 
The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  pure  water  from 
Mountain  Lake,  which  lies  about  3J  miles  west  of  the  corporate  limits. 
It  possesses  an  efficient  police  force,  and  a  reliable  and  well  managed 
fire  department,  consisting  of  hand  and  steam  engines.  It  is  governed 
by  a  Mayor  and  Council.  In  1870  the  population  was  149,482, 
making  it  the  tenth  city  of  the  Republic. 

San  Francisco  contains  a  large  population  of  Chinese.  These  num- 
ber at  present  about  15,000,  and  inhabit  a  distinct  quarter — the  dirtiest 
and  most  disorderly — of  the  city.  They  are  principally  men,  but  few 
women  of  their  own  race  being  among  them.  A  recent  writer  thus 
sketches  the  "  Chinese  Quarter :" 

"  We  could  hardly  realize  that  we  were  still  in  the  United  States, 
the  whole  surroundings  were  so  unfamiliar.  Chests  of  tea  covered 
with  hieroglyphics,  piles  of  curious  shaped  and  colored  garments, 
formed  a  fitting  background  for  the  noiseless  movements  of  the  at- 
tendants as  they  went  about  their  work.  The  atmosphere  was  heavy 
with  opium  smoke,  rising  in  curling  clouds  from  the  tiny  pipes  held 
by  two  impassive  figures  seated  on  either  side  of  the  little  table,  which 
held  the  inevitable  lamp  and  the  tiny  transparent  cups  to  be  found  in 
every  Chinese  domicile.  Mr.  Choy  Che^t,«himself,  a  courteous,  agree- 
able gentleman,  seemed  a  vision,  the  creature  of  Dreamland,  as  he  sat 
perched  upon  a  high  stool  opposite  our  party.  His  smooth  face, 
shaven  head  and  pigtail,  the  dark  blue  color  and  curious  fashioning 
of  his  broad  cloth  '  blouse/  and,  above  all,  his  restless,  gleaming  black 
eyes,  were  in  marked  contrast  to  the  familiar  appearance  of  the  gen- 
tlemen of  our  party,  with  their  bearded  faces,  closely  cut  hair,  and 
American  style  of  dress. 

"  It  was  hard  to  shake  off  the  feeling  that  this  was  but  a  vision  of 
Shadow-land.  We  looked  out  of  the  windows,  but  gained  no  help 
there,  for  the  street  was  full  of  quickly  moving  figures,  clad  in  the 
same  odd  attire,  with  their  boat-shaped  shoes,  walking  noiselessly  up 
and  down,  intent  on  their  own  affairs 

"  At  a  few  words — all  tang  and  chang  and  yang,  except  those  that 
were  ski  and  chi — an  oldish  Chinaman  handed  to  us,  on  a  tea-box  lid, 
some  curious,  dried,  brown  objects,  not  unlike  black  walnuts  in  appear- 
ance. Following  Mr.  Choy  Chew's  example,  and  crushing  them  between 
our  fingers,  there  developed  an  inner  kernel,  resembling  a  dried  prune 


CALIFORNIA.  1041 

in  looks  and  taste.  These  we  were  informed  were  a  species  of 
Chinese  fruit.  Our  host  then  wrote  for  us,  on  Chinese  paper,  his 
name  and  address  in  English  and  Chinese,  using  a  camel 's-hair  brush 
and  India  ink,  and  writing  (or  painting  would  be  a  more  applicable 
term)  with  as  great  rapidity  as  though  the  best  Gillott  pen  and  writing 
fluid  were  his  implements. 

"  The  evening  previous  to  this  visit,  while  prowling  around  Sacra- 
mento street,  and  watching  the  curious  Celestials  in  their  every-day 
life,  our  attention  was  attracted  by  a  singular  arrangement  on  a  door- 
step, and  we  stopped  for  a  nearer  view.  Nine  tiny  lights  were 
arranged  after  this  fashion 

.'. 

upon  the  two  ends  and  in  the  middle  of  the  door-stone.  While  pon- 
dering and  commenting,  the  door  suddenly  opened,  disclosing  a  China- 
man with  a  bowl  containing  ashes  and  fire  in  one  hand,  in  the  other  a 
huge  wisp  of  burning  scented  paper.  This  he  waved  over  the  tiny 
lights,  performed  some  rapid  hocus  pocus,  bumped  his  head  on  the  door- 
sill,  and  vanished,  the  door  closing  with  the  same  quiet  celerity  which 
marked  its  opening.  The  lights  burned  brighter,  and  save  for  that 
no  token  remained  of  this  performance.  We  looked  at  each  other 
more  bewildered  than  before,  and  took  up  our  line  of  progress  in  a 
dazed  manner,  mentally  querying  whether  we  had  not  been  uncon- 
sciously dropped  into  some|strange  land,  and  not  quite  recovering  our 
equanimity  until  some  distance  lay  between  us  and  the  scene  which 
so  puzzled  us. 

"  With  this  occurrence  vividly  before  us,  we  queried  of  Mr.  Choy 
Chew  as  to  what  it  might  mean.  He  told  us  that  their  people  wor- 
ship the  moon ;  that  once  a  year,  when  the  moon  is  '  at  its  bigness 
and  roundest,'  they  '  make  holiday ;'  and  that  evening  had  been  the 
fulness  of  the  harvest  moon ;  so  their  people  had  celebrated  it,  and 
the  performance  we  had  witnessed  was  a  burning  of  incense  in  honor 
of  pale  Cynthia.  We  then  inquired  if  strangers  would  be  allowed  to 
visit  the  Chinese  temples,  and  were  told  they  had  no  temples  in 
America,  but  only  miserable  little  ' joss-houses/  where  we  would  find 
not  much  to  interest.  If,  however,  we  would  take  the  trouble  to  go, 
there  was  one  up  a  court,  just  above  Stockton  street.  And  so  we  made 
our  adieux,  exchanging  shakes  of  the  hand  with  one  after  another 
who  came  forward  smiling  effusively,  and  departed  to  find  the  'joss- 
house/  On  the  way  we  meet  How  Yang,  an  acquaintance  made  the 
day  before,  and  under  his  guidance  we  proceeded  to  the  court,  into  a 
66 


1042  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

little  house,  up  stairs  to  a  back-room,  entering  through  a  small  ante- 
room ;  and  here  we  found  *  Joss/  So  far  as  we  could  learn,  <  Joss '  is 
a  corruption  of  the  Spanish  '  Dios/  and  stands  as  a  generic  term  for 
gods.  The  worship  we  saw,  and  that  which  is  generally  performed, 
seems  to  be  of  an  appeasing  nature.  The  evil  spirits  are  those  who 
are  worshipped — those  who  will  do  harm  if  not  conciliated  by  offerings 
and  incense-burnings  and  genuflections.  The  room  was  a  small  one  : 
an  oldish  and  exceedingly  dirty  '  Chinee7  (California  vernacular)  was 
clearing  up  generally,  making  the  toilet  of  the  exceedingly  ugly  and 
saturnine-looking  idolship  that  sat  in  the  centre  of  a  long,  low  table 
covered  with  cloths  stiff  with  quaint  embroideries.  A  large  china 
bowl,  very  similar  to  a  mammoth  punch  bowl,  was  filled  with  ashes, 
in  which  were  ' joss-sticks'  burning  slowly,  and  filling  the  air  with 
their  heavy,  incense-like  perfume.  Round  the  room,  in  every  possible 
place,  hung  strips  of  paper,  of  that  red  color  so  well  known  to  us  all 
on  the  outside  of  packs  of  fire-crackers,  and  covered  with  apparently 
identical  characters.  These  are  the  prayers,  written  out  and  pinned 
up  in  quantities.  In  one  corner  stood  an  uncouth  representation  of  a 
tiger,  the  jaws  widely  distended  and  stuffed  full  of  comestibles;  rats 
and  raw  meat  seeming  to  hold  the  chief  place.  This  is  to  provide 
against  probable  hunger  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Tiger,  and  possible  de- 
vouring of  humanity.  But  for  the  all-pervading  perfumed  smoke 
from  the  burning  l  joss-sticks/  the  air  of  the  room  would  have  been  un- 
bearable. Outside  the  door,  in  the  little  ante-room,  was  another  bowl, 
also  stuck  full  of  burning  sticks. 

"  We  were  told  that  at  certain  seasons  this  room  is  filled  to  over- 
flowing with  the  articles  of  food  brought  and  offered  to  their  idols. 

"  All  the  intelligent  Chinamen  we  met  deprecated  our  intention  of 
going  to  see  the  l  joss-house/  saying  it  was  not  worth  while;  that  they 
had  no  place  of  worship  in  this  country ;  that  what  were  here  were 
only  temporary  substitutes.  The  men  do  not  seem  reverent.  How 
Yang,  we  noticed,  looked  round  the  place  with  even  more  carelessness 
than  we  did,  and  seemed  to  feel  utterly  indifferent,  and  certainly  was 
or  pretended  to  be  entirely  ignorant  as  to  the  name  and  title  of  the 
presiding  deity,  and  could  not  or  would  not  answer  any  of  our  numer- 
ous questions. 

"  We  have  since  seen  it  stated  that  the  women  among  the  Chinese, 
as  in  most  communities,  are  the  devout  worshippers ;  and  we  have 
also  heard  that  they  are  impelled  to  extra  exertion  in  the  matter  by 
the  fond  belief  that  in  the  future  condition  the  most  religious  will  be 


CALIFORNIA.  1043 

elevated  from  feminine  inferiority  to  masculine  superiority — a  belief, 
which,  as  the  Chinese  have  very  little  respect  for  women,  and  treat 
them  with  neglect  and  contumely,  gives  great  comfort — a  comfort  that 
possibly  some,  of  our  strong-minded  sisters  might  like  to  share,  for, 
doubtless,  it  would  afford  huge  satisfaction  to  those  who  struggle  and 
strive  after  unattainable  masculine  prerogatives  here  to  know  that  in 
a  future  state  these  will  all  be  theirs  of  right  and  title. 

"  We  inquired  closely  of  various  residents  of  San  Francisco  who 
employ  '  Chinee '  servants  as  to  their  qualifications  and  the  satisfac- 
tion they  give.  In  all  cases  the  answers  were  favorable.  They  are 
docile,  quick,  honest,  and  reliable.  O  Biddy-ridden  housekeepers! 
can  it  be  that  a  day  of  deliverance  is  dawning  ?  Did  ever  Norah  or 
Biddy  prove  at  once  quick  to  learn  and  docile,  honest  and  thoroughly 
reliable?  Chinamen,  hc-wever,  are  not  remarkably  cleanly,  though 
they  can  be  made  so,  but  of  themselves  do  not  care  for  cleanliness. 
Neither  godliness  nor  its  next  virtue  has  had  any  power  over  them.  A 
friend  told  us  that  for  delicious  cooking  she  would  put  a  Chinese  cook 
foremost.  One  peculiarity  is,  that  owing  to  the  national  low  estimate 
of  women,  it  promotes  comfort  to  have  many  of  the  necessary  orders 
promulgated  directly  from  the  gentleman  of  the  household.  A  rather 
amusing  incident  came  to  our  notice,  illustrative  of  the  difference  it 
makes  how  one  looks  at  a  thing.  One  lady  remarked,  in  a  most  em- 
phatic way,  that  one  thing  she  would  not  permit,  and  that  was  to 
allow  her  Chinese  cook  to  wear  his  queue  down  his  back  while  about 
her  premises.  She  had,  after  much  difficulty,  succeeded  in  obliging 
'  John'  to  keep  his  queue  bound  around  his  head,  and  was  triumph- 
ant. Another  lady,  apropos  to  the  same  subject,  remarked  that  there 
was  one  thing  persons  employing  Chinese  servants  ought  to  be  most 
particular  about :  that  it  was  a  sign  of  intense  disrespect  and  contempt 
when  a  Chinaman  wore  his  pig-tail  wrapped  round  his  head,  and  never 
should  this  be  allowed  by  a  mistress !  l  Where  ignorance  is  bliss/ 
probably  applied  in  the  first  case ;  but  the  lady's  self-gratulation  on 
her  success  was  extremely  comical  to  us  when  we  had  the  '  cue 9  to  the 
arrangement  of  the  queue. 

"  In  laundry-work  these  people  excel ;  we  watched  them  quite  fre- 
quently, and  saw  that  in  this  worrisome  portion  of  domestic  labor 
they  were  most  competent.  They  do  most  of  the  washing  and  iron- 
ing for  San  Francisco — do  them  cheaply  (according  to  California 
rates)  and  well.  To  be  sure  their  mode  of  sprinkling  is  unique,  and 
riot  quite  pleasant  to  think  about,  but  it  is  thoroughly  successful  as  t< 


1044  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

results.  We  stopped  one  morning  at  Ho  Sun's  establishment.  "\V  ith 
the  uniform  good  humor  that  greeted  all  our  pryings,  the  busy  ironers 
looked  up,  nodded,  and  smiled,  'How  do?'  i  Walk  in/  and  went  on 
assiduously  with  the  piece  in  hand,  evidently  appreciating  that  we 
were  '  lookers  on  in  Vienna/  A  large  bowl  of  water  stood  beside  the 
iron  ;  the  ironer  stooped  his  face  down  into  it,  taking  up  a  mouthful 
of  water,  and  by  the  action  of  the  tongue  against  the  teeth,  ejected  it  in 
a  fine  spray  like  mist  equally  over  the  article  to  be  sprinkled.  Two 
mouthfuls  thoroughly  and  uniformly  dampened  the  piece,  and  then 
he  commenced  to  iron. 

"  On  Sundays  this  portion  of  the  city  is  alive ;  the  barber  shops 
are  crowded  with  customers  waiting  their  turn  to  be  freely  shaven, 
and  to  have  their  queues  rebraided.  The  gambling  houses,  whose 
name  is  legion,  overflow,  the  dreary  squeak  of  the  so-called  music 
resounds  on  every  side.  In  many  shops  and  workrooms  labor  is 
going  on ;  shoe-making,  cigar-rolling,  and  similar  avocations  are 
being  pursued." 

San  Francisco  being  the  principal  city  on  the  Pacific  coast  is  one 
of  the  most  important  commercial  centres  on  the  coast.  It  is  con- 
nected with  Omaha,  Nebraska,  by  the  Pacific  Railway,  and  by 
railway  with  the  most  important  cities  of  the  State.  Lines  of 
steamers  ply  between  the  city  and  the  towns  on  the  bay,  and  along 
the  navigable  rivers  emptying  into  the  bay.  It  has  steamship  com- 
munication with  the  principal  ports  on  the  Pacific  coast,  with  New 
York,  via  Panama,  and  with  Japan  and  China.  It  is  the  centre  of  a 
large  and  growing  commerce  with  all  parts  of  the  world.  The 
statistics  for  the  first  six  months  of  the  year  1868,  and  for  1869, 
having  been  already  presented  in  the  section  relating  to  the  commerce 
of  California,  may  be  passed  by  here.  In  the  same  place  the  reader 
will  find  the  returns  of  the  shipment  of  treasure  from  this  place. 

San  Francisco  was  first  settled  in  1776,  by  the  Spaniards,  who  built 
a  mission  and  established  a  Presidio  here.  The  place  was  called 
"Yerba  Buena,"  or  "good  herb,"  from  a  plant  of  supposed  medicinal 
virtue,  which  grew  in  great  quantities  in  the  neighborhood.  In  1839, 
it  was  laid  out  as  a  town.  In  1845,  it  contained  150  inhabitants. 
The  attention  of  American  settlers  was  drawn  to  it  about  this  time, 
and  by  1847,  the  population  had  increased  to  500.  The  result  of  the 
war  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico  made  California  an 
American  Territory,  and  it  was  about  this  time  that  the  town  changed 
its  name  to  San  Francisco.  In  December,  1847,  gold  was  discovered 


CALIFORNIA. 


1045 


CAPE   HORN. 

in  California.  The  news  was  scattered  over  the  civilized  world  the 
next  spring,  and  emigrants  began  to  pour  in  from  every  country. 
By  the  middle  of  1849,  the  town  contained  a  population  of  5000, 
the  larger  portion  being  mere  adventurers,  who  were  of  no  permanent 
advantage  to  the  place.  In  1850,  the  city  of  San  Francisco  was 
incorporated.  It  has  grown  rapidly,  and  having  passed  successfully 
through  the  stormy  days  of  its  pioneer  history,  is  now  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  a  solid  prosperity  which  promises  to  make  it  one  of  the 
greatest  cities  of  the  world. 

SAN  JOSE, 

In  Santa  Clara  county,  is  the  third  city  of  the  State.  It  lies  in  the 
lovely  valley  of  Santa  Clara,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadaloupe 
River,  about  8  miles  above  the  head  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  about 
50  miles  south-southeast  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  the  most  beautiful 
place  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  lies  in  the  "garden  district"  of  the 
State,  and  is  the  centre  of  a  large  trade.  It  is  laid  off  regularly,  and 
is  well  built.  It  contains  some  fine  public  buildings,  and  a  number 
of  elegant  private  residences.  The  climate  is  one  of  almost  perpetual 
spring,  and  the  valley  is  noted  for  its  great  beauty. 

The  city  contains  a,  handsome  new  Court  House,  the  largest  and 


1046  THE  GREAT  REPUBLIC. 

finest  in  the  State,  7  churches,  3  newspaper  offices,  several  public  and 
private  schools,  including  the  female  College  of  Notre  Dame,  and  a 
good  hotel.  It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  supplied  with  water  by 
means  of  artesian  wells.  It  is  governed  by  a  Mayor  and  Council, 
and  in  1870,  contained  a  population  of  9089.  The  port  of  San  Jose* 
is  at  Alviso,  on  the  bay,  7  miles  distant. 

San  Jose'  was  founded  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century. 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1850,  and  was  at  one  time  the  capital 
of  California. 

MISCELLANIES. 
SAN    FRANCISCO    IN    1848-9. 

In  the  early  spring  of  this  year  (1848),  occasional  intelligence  had  been 
received  of  the  finding  of  gold  in  large  quantities  among  the  foot  hills  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada.  Small  parcels  of  the  precious  metal  had  also  been  forwarded  to 
San  Francisco,  while  visitors  from  the  mines,  and  some  actual  diggers  arrived, 
to  tell  the  wonders  of  the  region  and  the  golden  gains  of  those  engaged  in  explor- 
ing and  working  it.  In  consequence  of  such  representations,  the  inhabitants 
began  gradually,  in  bands  and  singly,  to  desert  their  previous  occupations,  and 
betake  themselves  to  the  American  River  and  other  auriferous  parts  of  the  great 
Sacramento  Valley.  Labor,  from  the  deficiency  of  hands,  rose  rapidly  in  value, 
and  soon  all  business  and  work,  except  the  most  urgent,  was  forced  to  be  stopped. 
Seamen  deserted  from  their  ships  in  the  bay,  and  soldiers  from  the  barracks. 
Over  all  the  country  the  excitement  was  the  same.  Neither  threats,  punishment, 
nor  money  could  keep  men  to  their  most  solemn  engagements.  Gold  was  the 
irresistible  magnet  that  drew  human  souls  to  the  place  where  it  lay,  rudely 
snapping  asunder  the  feebler  ties  of  affection  and  duty.  Avarice  and  the  over- 
weening desire  to  be  suddenly  rich,  from  whence  sprang  the  hope  and  moral 
certainty  of  being  so,  grew  into  a  disease,  and  the  infection  spread  on  all  sides, 
and  led  to  a  general  migration  of  every  class  of  the  community  to  the  golden 
quarters.  The  daily  laborer,  who  had  worked  for  the  good  and  at  the  command 
of  another,  for  one  or  two  dollars  a  day,  could  not  be  restrained  from  flying  to 
the  happy  spot  where  he  could  earn  six  or  ten  times  the  amount,  and  might 
possibly  gain  a  hundred  or  even  a  thousand  times  the  sum  in  one  lucky  day's 
chance.  Then  the  life,  at  worst,  promised  to  be  one  of  continual  adventure  and 
excitement,  and  the  miner  was  his  own  master.  While  this  was  the  case  with 
the  common  laborer,  his  employer,  wanting  his  services,  suddenly  found  his 
occupation  at  an  end ;  while  shopkeepers  and  the  like,  dependent  on  both,  dis- 
covered themselves  in  the  same  predicament.  The  glowing  tales  of  the  successful 
miners  all  the  while  reached  their  ears,  and  threw  their  own  steady  and  large 
gains  comparatively  in  the  shade.  They  therefore  could  do  no  better,  in  a 
pecuniary  sense  even,  for  themselves,  than  to  hasten  after  their  old  servants,  and 
share  in  their  new  labor  and  its  extraordinary  gains,  or  pack  up  their  former 
business  stock,  and,  travelling  with  it  to  the  mines,  open  their  new  shops,  and 
stores,  and  stalls,  and  dispose  of  their  old  articles  to  the  fortunate  diggers,  at  a 
rise  of  500  or  1000  per  cent 


CALIFORNIA.  1047 

In  the  month  of  May,  it  was  computed  that  at  least  150  people  had  left  San 
Francisco,  and  every  day  since  was  adding  to  their  number.  Some  were  occa- 
sionally returning  from  the  auriferous  quarter ;  but  they  had  little  time  to  stop 
and  expatiate  upon  what  they  had  seen.  They  had  hastily  come  back,  as  they 
had  hastily  gone  away  at  first,  leaving  their  household  and  business  to  waste 
and  ruin,  now  to  fasten  more  properly  their  houses,  and  remove  goods,  family 
and  all,  at  once  to  the  gold  region.  Their  hurried  movements,  more  even  than 
the  words  they  uttered,  excited  the  curiosity  and  then  the  eager  desire  of  others 
to  accompany  them.  And  so  it  was.  Day  after  day  the  bay  was  covered  with 
launches,  filled  with  the  inhabitants  and  their  goods,  hastening  up  the  Sacramento. 
This  state  of  matters  soon  came  to  a  head  ;  and  master  and  man  alike  hurried  to 
the  placeres,  leaving  San  Francisco,  like  a  place  where  the  plague  reigns,  forsaken 
by  its  old  inhabitants,  a  melancholy  solitude. 

On  the  29th  of  May,  the  Californian  published  a  fly-sheet,  apologizing  for  the 
future  non-issue  of  the  paper,  until  better  days  came,  when  they  might  expect  to 
retain  their  servants  for  some  amount  of  remuneration,  which  at  present  was 
impossible,  as  all,  from  the  "subs"  to  the  "devil,"  had  indignantly  rejected 
every  offer,  and  gone  off  to  the  diggings.  "The  whole  country,"  said  the  last 
editorial  of  the  paper,  "from  San  Francisco  to  Los  Angeles,  and  from  the  sea 
shore  to  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  resounds  with  the  sordid  cry  of  gold! 
GOLD  ! !  GOLD  ! ! !— while  the  field  is  left  half  planted,  the  house  half  built,  and 
everything  neglected  but  the  manufacture  of  shovels  and  pick-axes,  and  the  means 
of  transportation  to  the  spot  where  one  man  obtained  $128  worth  of  the  real 
stuff  in  one  day's  washing,  and  the  average  for  all  concerned  is  twenty  dollars 
per  diem." 

Within  the  first  eight  weeks  after  the  "  diggings  "  had  been  fairly  known, 
$250,000  had  reached  San  Francisco  in  gold  dust,  and  within  the  next  eight 
weeks  $600,000  more.  These  sums  were  all  to  purchase,  at  any  price,  additional 
supplies  for  the  mines.  Coin  grew  scarce,  and  all  that  was  in  the  country  was 
insufficient  to  satisfy  the  increased  wants  of  commerce  in  one  town  alone.  Gold 
dust,  therefore,  soon  became  a  circulating  medium,  and  after  some  little  demur 
at  first,  was  readily  received  by  all  classes  at  $16  an  ounce.  The  authorities, 
however,  would  only  accept  it  in  payment  of  duties  at  $10  per  ounce,  with  the 
privilege  of  redemption,  by  payment  of  coin,  within  a  limited  time. 

When  subsequently  immigrants  began  to  arrive  in  numerous  bands,  any 
amount  of  labor  could  be  obtained,  provided  always  a  most  unusually  high  price 
was  paid  for  it.  Returned  diggers,  and  those  who  cautiously  had  never  went  to 
the  mines,  were  then  also  glad  enough  to  work  for  rates  varying  from  $12  to  $30 
a  day;  at  which  terms  capitalists  were  somewhat  afraid  to  commence  any  heavy 
undertaking.  The  hesitation  was  only  for  an  instant.  Soon  all  the  labor  that 
could  possibly  be  procured  was  in  ample  request  at  whatever  rates  were 
demanded.  The  population  of  a  great  State  was  suddenly  flocking  in  upon 
them,  and  no  preparations  had  hitherto  been  made  for  its  reception.  Building 
lots  had  to  be  surveyed,  and  streets  graded  and  planked — hills  levelled — hollows, 
lagoons,  and  the  bay  itself  piled,  capped,  filled  up  and  planked — lumber,  bricks, 
and  all  other  building  materials  provided,  at  most  extraordinarily  high  prices — 
houses  built,  finished,  and  furnished — great  warehouses  and  stores  erected — 
wharves  run  far  out  into  the  sea — numberless  tons  of  goods  removed  from  ship- 
board, and  delivered  and  shipped  anew  everywhere — and  ten  thousand  other 
things  had  all  to  be  done  without  a  moment's  unnecessary  delay.  Long  before 


1048  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

these  things  were  completed,  the  sand-hills  and  barren  ground  around  the  town 
were  overspread  with  a  multitude  of  canvas,  blanket,  and  bough-covered  tents— 
the  bay  was  alive  with  shipping  and  small  craft,  carrying  passengers  and  goods 
backward  and  forward— Uie  unplanked,  ungraded,  unformed  streets  (at  one  time 
moving  heaps  of  dry  sand  and  dust ;  at  another,  miry  abysses,  whose  treacherous 
depths  sucked  in  horse  and  dray,  and  occasionally  man  himself)  were  crowded 
with  human  beings  from  every  corner  of  the  universe  and  of  every  tongue— all 
excited  and  busy,  plotting,  speaking,  working,  buying  and  selling  town  lots,  and 
beach  and  water  lots,  shiploads  of  every  kind  of  assorted  merchandise,  the  ships 
themselves,  if  they  could— though  that  was  not  often— gold  dust  in  hundred 
weights,  ranches  square  leagues  in  extent,  with  their  thousands  of  cattle— allot- 
ments in  hundreds  of  contemplated  towns,  already  prettily  designed  and  laid  out— 
on  paper— and,  in  short,  speculating  and  gambling  in  every  branch  of  modern 
commerce,  and  in  many  strange  things  peculiar  to  the  time  and  place.  And 
everybody  made  money,  and  was  suddenly  growing  rich. 

The  loud  voices  of  the  eager  seller  and  as  eager  buyer— the  laugh  of  reckless 
joy — the  bold  accents  of  successful  speculation — the  stir  and  hum  of  active,  hur- 
ried labor,  as  man  and  brute,  horse  and  bullock,  and  their  guides,  struggled  and 
manager!  through  heaps  of  loose  rubbish,  over  hills  of  sand,  and  among  deceiving 
deep  mud  pools  and  swamps,  filled  the  amazed  newly  arrived  immigrant  with  an 
almost  appalling  sense  of  the  exuberant  life,  energy,  and  enterprise  of  the  place. 
He  breathed  quick  and  faintly — his  limbs  grew  weak  as  water — and  his  heart 
sunk  within  him  as  he  thought  of  the  dreadful  conflict,  when  he  approached  and 
mingled  among  that  confused  and  terrible  business  battle. 

Gambling  saloons,  glittering  like  fairy  palaces,  like  them  suddenly  sprang  into 
existence,  studding  nearly  all  sides  of  the  plaza,  and  every  street  in  its  neighbor- 
hood. As  if  intoxicating  drinks  from  the  well  plenished  and  splendid  bar  they 
each  contained  were  insufficient  to  gild  the  scene,  music  added  its  loudest,  if  not 
its  sweetest,  charms ;  and  all  was  mad,  feverish  mirth,  where  fortunes  were  lost 
and  won,  upon  the  green  cloth,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  All  classes  gambled 
in  those  days,  from  the  starchiest  white  neck-clothed  professor  to  the  veriest 
black  rascal  that  earned  a  dollar  for  blacking  massa's  boots.  Nobody  had  leisure 
to  think,  even  for  a  moment,  of  his  occupation,  and  how  it  was  viewed  in 
Christian  lands.  The  heated  brain  was  never  allowed  to  get  cool  while  a  bit  of 
coin  or  dust  was  left.  These  saloons,  therefore,  were  crowded,  night  and  day, 
by  impatient  revellers  who  never  could  satiate  themselves  with  excitement,  nor 
get  rid  too  soon  of  their  golden  heaps. 

THE    VIGILANCE    COMMITTEE. 

By  the  beginning  of  1851,  San  Francisco  had  become  crowded  with  adven- 
turers of  all  sorts  and  from  every  land.  Many  were  professional  criminals,  and 
as  the  law  failed  to  protect  the  respectable  settlers  against  their  outrages,  the 
citizens  were  compelled,  for  their  own  preservation,  to  take  the  matter  into  their 
own  hands. 

Around  Clark's  Point  and  vicinity,  in  San  Francisco,  was  the  rendezvous  of 
these  villains.  "  Low  drinking  and  dancing  houses,  lodging  and  gambling  houses 
of  the  same  mean  class,  the  constant  scenes  of  lewdness,  drunkenness,  and  strife, 
abounded  in  the  quarter  mentioned.  The  daily  and  nightly  occupants  of  these 
vile  abodes  had  every  one,  more  or  less,  been  addicted  to  crime ;  and  many  of 


CALIFORNIA.  1049 

them  were  at  all  times  ready,  for  the  most  trifling  consideration,  to  kill  a  man  or 
fire  a  town.  During  the  early  hours  of  night,  when  the  Alsatia  was  in  revel,  it 
was  dangerous  in  the  highest  degree  for  a  single  person  to  venture  within  its 
bounds.  Even  the  police  hardly  dared  to  enter  there  ;  and  if  they  attempted  to 
apprehend  some  known  individuals,  it  was  always  in  a  numerous,  strongly-armed 
company.  Seldom,  however,  were  arrests  made.  The  lawless  inhabitants  of 
the  place  united  to  save  their  luckless  brothers,  and  generally  managed  to  drive 
the  assailants  away.  When  the  different  fires  took  place  in  San  Francisco,  bands 
of  plunderers  issued  from  this  great  haunt  of  dissipation,  to  help  themselves  to 
whatever  money  or  valuables  lay  in  their  way,  or  which  they  could  possibly 
secure.  With  these  they  retreated  to  their  dens,  and  defied  detection  or  appre- 
hension. Fire,  however,  was  only  one  means  of  attaining  their  ends.  The  most 
daring  burglaries  were  committed,  and  houses  and  persons  rifled  of  their 
valuables.  Where  resistance  was  made,  the  bowie-knife  or  the  revolver  settled 
matters,  and  left  the  robber  unmolested.  Midnight  assaults,  ending  in  murder, 
were  common.  And  not  only  were  these  deeds  perpetrated  under  the  shade  of 
night ;  but  even  in  daylight,  in  the  highways  and  byways  of  the  country,  in  the 
streets  of  the  town,  in  crowded  bars,  gambling  saloons  and  lodging  houses, 
crimes  of  an  equally  glaring  character  were  of  constant  occurrence.  People  at 
that  period  generally  carried  during  all  hours,  and  wherever  they  happened  to 
be,  loaded  firearms  about  their  persons  ;  but  these  weapons  availed  nothing 
against  the  sudden  stroke  of  the  '  slung-shot,'  the  plunge  and  rip  of  the  knife,  or 
the  secret  aiming  of  the  pistol.  No  decent  man  was  in  safety  to  walk  the  streets 
after  dark ;  while  at  all  hours,  both  of  night  and  day,  his  property  was  jeopardized 
by  incendiarism  and  burglary. 

"All  this  while,  the  law,  whose  supposed  'majesty'  is  so  awful  in  other 
countries,  was  here  only  a  matter  for  ridicule.  The  police  were  few  in  number, 
and  poorly  as  well  as  irregularly  paid.  Some  of  them  were  in  league  with  the 
criminals  themselves,  and  assisted  these  at  all  times  to  elude  justice.  Subsequent 
confessions  of  criminals,  on  the  eve  of  execution,  implicated  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  people  in  various  high  and  low  departments  of  the  executive.  Bail  was 
readily  accepted  in  the  most  serious  cases,  where  the  security  tendered  was 
absolutely  worthless ;  and  where,  whenever  necessary,  both  principal  and 
cautioner  quietly  disappeared.  The  prisons  likewise  were  small  and  insecure ; 
and  though  filled  to  overflowing,  could  no  longer  contain  the  crowds  of  appre- 
hended offenders.  When  these  were  ultimately  brought  to  trial,  seldom  could  a 
conviction  be  obtained.  From  technical  errors  on  the  part  of  the  prosecutors, 
laws  ill  understood  and  worse  applied,  false  swearing  of  the  witnesses  for  the 
prisoners,  absence  often  of  the  chief  evidence  for  the  prosecution,  dishonesty  of 
jurors,  incapacity,  weakness,  or  venality  of  the  judge,  and  from  many  other 
causes,  the  cases  generally  broke  down,  and  the  prisoners  were  freed.  Not  one 
criminal  had  yet  been  executed.  Yet  it  was  notorious  that,  at  this  period,  at  least 
100  murders  had  been  committed  within  the  space  of  a  few  months;  while 
innumerable  were  the  instances  of  arson,  and  of  theft,  robbery,  burglary,  and 
assault  with  intent  to  kill.  It  was  evident  that  the  offenders  defied  and  laughed 
at  all  the  puny  efforts  of  the  authorities  to  control  them.  The  tedious  processes 
of  legal  tribunals  had  no  terrors  for  them.  As  yet  everything  had  been  pleasant 
and  safe,  and  they  saw  no  reason  why  it  should  not  always  be  so.  San  Francisco 
had  just  been  destroyed,  a  fifth  time,  by  conflagration.  The  cities  of  Stockton 
and  Nevada  had  likewise  shared  the  same  fate.  That  part  of  it  was  the  doing  of 


1050  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

incendiaries  no  one  doubted ;  and,  too,  no  one  doubted  but  that  this  terrible  state 
of  things  would  continue,  and  grow  worse  until  a  new  and  very  different  execu- 
tive from  the  legally  constituted  one  should  rise  up  in  vengeance  against  those 
pests  that  worried  and  preyed  upon  the  vitals  of  society.  It  was  at  this  fearful 
time  that  the  Vigilance  Committee  was  organized." 

This  was  in  June,  1851,  at  which  time  the  association  organized  "for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  lives  and  property  of  the  citizens  and  residents  of  the  City  of  San 
Francisco."  They  formed  a  constitution,  and  selected  a  room  in  which  to  hold 
their  meetings,  which  were  entirely  secret.  The  first  person  they  arrested  was 
John  Jenkins,  a  notorious  "Sydney  cove."  He  was  seized  for  stealing  a  safe 
on  the  10th  of  June.  About  10  o'clock  that  night,  the  signal  for  calling  the 
members  was  given — the  tolling  of  the  bell  of  the  Monumental  Engine  Company. 
Shortly  afterward  about  80  members  of  the  Committee  hurried  to  the  appointed 
place,  and  giving  the  secret  password  were  admitted.  For  two  long  hours  the 
Committee  closely  examined  the  evidence  and  found  him  guilty.  "At  midnight 
the  bell  was  tolled,  as  sentence  of  death  by  hanging  was  passed  upon  the 
wretched  man.  The  solemn  sounds  at  that  unusual  hour  filled  the  anxious 
crowds  with  awe.  The  condemned  at  this  time  was  asked  if  he  had  anything  to 
say  for  himself,  when  he  answered  :  '  No,  I  have  nothing  to  say,  only  I  wish  to 
have  a  cigar.'  "  This  was  handed  to  him,  and  afterward,  at  his  request,  a  little 
brandy  and  water.  He  was  perfectly  cool,  and  seemingly  careless,  confidently 
expecting,  it  was  believed,  a  rescue,  up  to  the  last  moment. 

A  little  before  one  o'clock,  Mr.  S.  Brannan  came  out  of  the  Committee  rooms, 
and,  ascending  a  mound  of  sand  to  the  east  of  the  Rassette  House,  addressed  the 
people.  He  had  been  deputed,  he  said,  by  the  Committee,  to  inform  them  that 
the  prisoner's  case  had  been  fairly  tried,  that  he  had  been  proved  guilty,  and  was 
condemned  to  be  hanged ;  and  that  the  sentence  would  be  executed  within  one 
hour  upon  the  plaza.  He  then  asked  the  people  if  they  approved  of  the  action 
of  the  Committee,  when  great  shouts  of  Ay  !  Ay  !  burst  forth,  mingled  with  a 
few  cries  of  No  !  In  the  interval  a  clergyman  had  been  sent  for,  who  adminis- 
tered the  last  consolations  of  religion  to  the  condemned. 

Shortly  before  2  o'clock,  the  Committee  issued  from  the  building,  bearing  the 
prisoner  (who  had  his  arms  tightly  pinioned)  along  with  them.  The  Committee 
were  all  armed,  and  closely  clustered  around  the  culprit,  to  prevent  any  possible 
chance  of  rescue.  A  procession  was  formed  ;  and  the  whole  party,  followed  by 
the  crowd,  proceeded  to  the  plaza,  to  the  south  end  of  the  adobe  building,  which 
then  stood  on  the  northwest  corner.  The  opposite  end  of  the  rope  which  was 
already  about  the  neck  of  the  victim  was  hastily  thrown  over  a  projecting  beam. 
Some  of  the  authorities  attempted  at  this  stage  of  affairs  to  interfere,  but  their 
efforts  were  unavailing.  They  were  civilly  desired  to  stand  back,  and  not  delay 
what  was  still  to  be  done.  The  crowd,  which  numbered  upward  of  1000,  were 
perfectly  quiescent,  or  only  applauded  by  look,  gesture,  and  subdued  voice,  the 
action  of  the  Committee.  Before  the  prisoner  had  reached  the  building,  a  score 
of  persons  seized  the  loose  end  of  the  rope  and  ran  backward,  dragging  the 
wretch  along  the  ground  and  raising  him  to  the  beam.  Thus  they  held  him  till 
he  was  dead.  Nor  did  they  let  the  body  go  until  some  hours  afterward,  new 
volunteers  relieving  those  who  were  tired  holding  the  rope.  Little  noise  or 
confusion  took  place.  Muttered  whispers  among  the  spectators  guided  their 
movements  or  betrayed  their  feelings.  The  prisoner  had  not  spoken  a  word, 
either  upon  the  march  or  during  the  rapid  preparations  for  his  execution.  At  the 


CALIFORNIA.  1051 

end  he  was  perhaps  strung  up  almost  before  he  was  aware  of  what  was  so  imme- 
diately coming.  He  was  a  strong-bnilt,  healthy  man,  and  his  struggles,  when 
hanging,  were  very  violent  for  a  few  minutes. 

The  next  execution  which  took  place  was  about  a  month  later,  that  of  James 
Stuart.  He  was  an  Englishman,  who  had  been  transported  to  Australia  for 
forgery.  On  leaving  it,  he  wandered  in  various  parts  of  the  Pacific  until  he 
reached  California,  where  he  was  supposed  to  have  committed  more  murders 
and  other  desperate  crimes  than  any  other  villain  in  the  country.  Before  his 
death  he  acknowledged  the  justice  of  his  punishment.  He  was  hung  July  llth, 
from  a  derrick  at  the  end  of  Market  street  wharf,  in  the  presence  of  assembled 
thousands. 

One  month  more  rolled  round,  and  the  Committee  again  exercised  their  duties 
upon  the  persons  of  Samuel  Whittaker  and  Robert  McKenzie,  who  were  guilty 
of  robbery,  murder,  and  arson,  and  on  trial  confessed  these  crimes.  The  sheriff 
and  his  posse,  with  a  writ  of  habeas  corpus,  took  these  men  from  the  hands  of 
the  Committee  and  confined  them  in  jail.  The  latter,  fearful  that  the  rascals 
would  escape  through  the  quibbles  of  the  law,  prepared  for  the  rescue. 

"About  half  past  2  o'clock,"  says  the  ''Annals  of  San  Francisco,"  "on  the 
afternoon  of  Sunday,  the  24th  of  August,  an  armed  party,  consisting  of  36 
members  of  the  Vigilance  Committee,  forcibly  broke  into  the  jail,  at  a  time  when 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Williams  happened  to  be  engaged  at  devotional  exercises  with  the 
prisoners,  among  whom  were  Whittaker  and  McKenzie.  The  slight  defence  of 
the  jailors  and  guards  was  of  no  avail.  The  persons  named  were  seized,  and 
hurried  to  and  placed  within  a  coach,  that  had  been  kept  in  readiness  a  few  steps 
from  the  prison.  The  carriage  instantly  was  driven  off  at  full  speed,  and  nearly 
at  the  same  moment  the  ominous  bell  of  the  Monumental  Engine  Company  rap- 
idly and  loudly  tolled  for  the  immediate  assemblage  of  the  Committee  and  the 
knell  itself  of  the  doomed.  The  whole  population  leaped  with  excitement  at  the 
sound  ;  and  immense  crowds  from  the  remotest  quarter  hurried  to  Battery  street. 
There  blocks,  with  the  necessary  tackle,  had  been  hastily  fastened  to  two  beams 
which  projected  over  the  windows  of  the  great  hall  of  the  Committee.  Within 
17  minutes  after  the  arrival  of  the  prisoners,  they  were  both  dangling  by  the 
neck  from  these  beams,  the  loose  extremities  of  the  halters  being  taken  within 
the  building  itself  and  forcibly  held  by  members  of  the  Committee.  Full  6000 
people  were  present,  who  kept  an  awful  silence  during  the  short  time  these  pre- 
parations lasted.  But  so  soon  as  the  wretches  were  swung  off,  one  tremendous 
shout  of  satisfaction  burst  from  the  excited  multitude  ;  and  then  there  was  silence 
again. 

4t  This  was  the  last  time,  for  years,  that  the  Committee  took  or  found  occasion 
to  exercise  their  functions.  Henceforward  the  administration  of  justice  might  be 
safely  left  in  the  hands  of  the  usual  officials.  The  city  now  was  pretty  well 
cleansed  of  crime.  The  fate  of  Jenkins,  Stuart,  Whittaker  and  McKenzie  showed 
that  rogues  and  roguery,  of  whatever  kind,  could  no  longer  expect  to  find  a  safe 
lurking-place  in  San  Francisco.  Many  of  the  suspected,  and  such  as  were  warned 
off  by  the  Committee,  had  departed,  and  gone,  some  to  other  lands,  and  some 
into  the  mining  regions  and  towns  of  the  interior.  Those,  however,  who  still 
clung  to  California  found  no  refuge  anywhere  in  the  State.  Previously,  different 
cases  of  lynch  law  had  occurred  in  the  gold  districts,  but  these  were  solitary 
instances  which  had  been  caused  by  the  atrocity  of  particular  crimes.  When, 
however,,  the  Vigilance  Committee  of  San  Francisco  had  started  up,  fully  organ- 


1052  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

ized,  and  began  their  great  work,  Sacramento,  Stockton,  San  Jos6,  as  well  as 
other  towns  and  the  more  thickly  peopled  mining  quarters,  likewise  formed  their 
committees  of  vigilance  and  safety,  and  pounced  upon  all  the  rascals  within  their 
bounds.  These  associations  interchanged  information  with  each  other  as  to  the 
movements  of  the  suspected  ;  and  all,  with  the  hundred  eyes  of  an  Argus  and  the 
hundred  arms  of  a  Briareus,  watched,  pursued,  harassed,  and  finally  caught  the 
worst  desperadoes  of  the  country.  Like  Cain,  a  murderer  and  wanderer,  as 
most  of  them  were,  they  bore  a  mark  011  the  brow,  by  which  they  were  known. 
Some  were  hanged  at  various  places,  some  were  lashed  and  branded,  but  the 
greater  number  were  simply  ordered  to  leave  the  country,  within  a  limited  time, 
under  penalty  of  immediate  death  if  found  after  a  stated  period  within  its  limits. 
Justice  was  no  longer  blind  or  leaden-heeled.  With  the  perseverance  and  speed 
of  a  bloodhound,  she  tracked  criminals  to  their  lair,  and  smote  them  where  they 
lay.  For  a  long  time  afterward,  the  whole  of  California  remained  comparatively 
free  from  outrages  against  person  and  property. 

"  From  all  the  evidence  that  can  be  obtained,  it  is  not  supposed  that  a  single 
instance  occurred  in  which  a  really  innocent  man  suffered  the  extreme  penalty 
of  death.  Those  who  were  executed  generally  confessed  their  guilt,  and  admitted 
the  punishment  to  have  been  merited." 


OREGON. 

Area, 95,274  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1860, 52,465 

Population  in  1870, 90,923 

THE  State  of  Oregon  is  situated  between  42°  and  46°  20'  N.  lati- 
tude, and  between  116°  31'  and  124°  30'  W.  longitude.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Washington  Territory,  on  the  east  by  Idaho 
Territory,  on  the  south  by  Nevada  and  California,  and  on  the  west 
by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is  about  395  miles  long,  from  east  to  west, 
and  about  295jniles  wide,  from  north  to  south. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  surface  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  lying  between  the  Cas- 
cade Range  and  the  Snake  River,  is  mostly  an  elevated  plateau, 
broken  by  mountain  ranges.  The  western  part,  lying  between  the 
ocean  and  the  Cascade  Range,  is  mountainous. 

"The  Coast  Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  traversing  Cali- 
fornia, continue  northward  through  Oregon ;  the  latter,  after  leaving 
California,  are  named  the  Cascades.  Near  the  southern  boundary  the 
chain  throws  off  a  branch  called  the  Blue  Mountains,  which  extend 
northeastwardly  through  the  State,  passing  into  Washington  and 
Idaho.  The  course  of  the  Cascades  through  the  State  is  generally 
parallel  with  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  and  distant  therefrom  an 
average  of  110  miles.  In  California,  the  direction  of  the  Coast 
Mountains  and  coast  valleys  is  that  of  general  parallelism  with  the 
sea-shore ;  the  mountains  sometimes  approaching  close  to  the  shore, 
and  then  receding  miles  from  it,  leaving  belts  of  arable  land  between 
them  and  the  ocean.  In  Oregon,  the  Coast  Range  consists  of  a  series 

1053 


1054  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

of  high  lands  running  at  right  angles  with  the  shore,  with  valleys 
and  rivers  between  the  numerous  spurs  having  the  same  general  direc- 
tion as  the  highlands."  * 

The  western  part  of  the  State  is  the  only  inhabited  and  regularly 
organized  portion.  It  is  thus  described  by  a  writer  thoroughly 
familiar  with  it: 

"  Western  Oregon,  between  the  Cascades  and  the  Pacific,  is  made 
up  chiefly  of  three  valleys,  those  of  the  Willamette  (pronounced  Wil- 
lain'-ette),  Urnpqua,  and   Rogue  rivers.     The   first  named   stream 
begins  in  the  Cascade  Mountains,  runs  west  60  miles,  then  turns 
northward,  runs   140  miles,  and  empties  into  the  Columbia.     The 
last  two  begin  in  the  Cascades,  and  run  westward  to  the  ocean.    There 
are,  perhaps,  several  thousand  miners,  including  Chinamen,  in  the 
Rogue  River  Valley ;  but  nearly  the  whole  permanent  farming  popu- 
lation is  in  the  Valley  of  the  Willamette.     This  valley,  taking  the 
word  in  its  more  restricted  sense  of  the  low  land,  is  from  30  to  40 
miles  wide,  and  120  miles  long.     This  may  be  said  to  be  the  whole 
of  agricultural  Oregon.     It  is  a  beautiful,  fertile,  well- watered  plain, 
with  a  little  timber  along  the  streams,  and  a  great  deal  in  the  moun- 
tains on  each  side.     The  soil  is  a  gravelly  clay,  covered  near  the 
creeks  and  rivers  with  a  rich  sandy  loam.     The  vegetation  of  the  val- 
ley is  composed  of  several  indigenous  grasses,  a  number  of  flowering 
plants  and  ferns,  the  latter  being  very  abundant,  and  exceedingly 
troublesome  to  the  farmer  on  account  of  its  extremely  tough  vitality. 
The  tributary  streams  of  the  Willamette  are  very  numerous,  and  their 
course  in  the  valley  is  usually  crooked,  as  the  main  stream  itself  is, 
having  many  'sloughs/   ' bayous/  or  ' arms/  as  they  are  differently 
called.     In  some  places  the  land  is  marshy,  and  everywhere  moist. 
Drouth  will  never  be  known  in  western  Oregon  ;  its  climate  is  very 
wet,  both  summer  and  winter,  the  latter  season  being  one  long  rain, 
and  the  former  consisting  of  many  short  ones,  with  a  little  sunshine 
intervening.     The  winters  are  warm,  and  the  summers  rather  cool — 
too  cool- for  growing  melons,  maize,  and  sweet  potatoes.     Wheat,  oats, 
barley,  potatoes,  and  domestic  animals  thrive  well.     The  climate,  take 
it  all  in  all,  is  much  like  that  of  England,  and  all  plants  and  animals 
which  do  well  in  Britain  will  prosper  in  Oregon.     The  Oregon  fruit 
is  excellent,  particularly  the  apples  and  plums ;  the  peaches  and  pears 
are  not  quite  so  good  as  those  of  California.     All  along  the  coast  of 

*  Eeport  of  the  General  Land-Office.' 


OREGON.  1055 

Oregon,  there  is  a  range  of  mountains  about  40  miles  wide,  and  they 
are  so  densely  timbered  with  cedar,  pine,  spruce,  and  fir,  that  the 
density  of  the  wood  alone  would  render  them  worthless  for  an  age,  if 
they  were  not  rugged.  But  they  are  very  rugged,  and  the  Umpqua 
and  Rogue  rivers,  in  making  their  way  through  them,  have  not  been 
able  to  get  any  bottom  lands,  and  are  limited  to  narrow,  high-walled 
caftons.  The  only  tillable  lands  on  the  banks  of  those  rivers  are 
about  50  miles  from  the  sea,  each  having  a  valley  which,  in  general 
terms,  may  be  described  as  12  miles  wide  by  30  long.  Rogue  River 
Valley  is  separated  from  California  by  the  Siskiyou  Mountains,  about 
5000  feet  high,  and  from  Umpqua  Valley  by  the  Caflon  Mountains, 
about  3000  feet  high;  and  the  Umpqua  again  is  separated  from  the 
Willamette  Valley  by  the  Calapooya  Mountains,  also  about  3000  feet 
high.  All  Oregon — that  is,  its  western  division,  except  the  low  lands 
of  the  Willamette,  Umpqua,  and  Rogue  valleys — is  covered  with  dense 
timber,  chiefly  of  coarse  grained  wood — such  as  fir,  spruce,  and  hem- 
lock. In  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  State,  however,  there  are 
considerable  forests  of  white  cedar — a  large  and  beautiful  tree,  pro- 
ducing a  soft,  fine-grained  lumber,  and  very  fragrant  with  a  perfume, 
which  might  be  imitated  by  mixing  otto  of  roses  with  turpentine. 
Oak  and  ash  are  rare.  Nearly  all  the  trees  are  coniferous.  In  Rogue 
Valley  and  along  the  beach  of  the  Pacific,  there  are  extensive  gold 
diggings.  There  are  also  large  seams  of  tertiary  coal  at  Goose  Bay. 
These  are  the  only  valuable  minerals  in  the  State.  The  scenery  on 
the  Columbia  is  grand,  from  Wallawalla,  where  it  first  touches 
Oregon,  to  the  ocean.  There  are  five  mountain  peaks  in  the  State, 
rising  to  the  region  of  perpetual  snow:  Mount  Hood,  13,700  feet 
high;  Mount  Jefferson,  11,900  feet  high;  the  Three  Sisters,  Mount 
Scott,  and  Mount  McLaughlin,  all  about  9000  feet  high." 

The  Columbia  River,  already  described,  forms  the  principal  part 
of  the  northern  boundary  of  the  State.  It  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Wallawalla,  Umatilla,  John  Day,  and  Falls  rivers,  east  of  the  Cas- 
cade Range,  and  those  of  the  Willamette,  west  of  it.  The  Rogue  and 
Umpqua  rivers  empty  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  lower  part  of  the 
Columbia  forms  a  fine  bay,  and  affords  an  excellent  harbor.  It  is 
navigable  to  the  falls  for  large  vessels,  and  above  them  for  a  consider- 
able distance  for  steamers.  The  Willamette  is  navigable  to  Portland 
for  ships,  and  for  80  miles  above  the  falls  for  small  steamers.  The 
Umpqua  is  navigable  for  25  miles  for  small  steamers,  and  its  mouth 
forms  a  harbor  for  vessels  drawing  12  feet  of  water. 

There  are  several  small  lakes  in  the  State. 


1056 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


AN    OREGON    VALLEY. 


MINERALS. 

Oregon  is  principally  an  agricultural  State,  but  mining  is  growing 
in  importance.  Gold  exists  in  the  State.  The  deposits  of  copper  are 
almost  inexhaustible,  and  there  are  considerable  deposits  of  coal  in  the 
Valley  of  the  Williamette. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  is  mild  along  the  coast,  but  increases  in  severity  as  one 
proceeds  eastward.  The  winters  are  very  irregular,  but  are  usually 
short  and  mild. 

SOIL  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  much  of  the  land  is  unfit  for  culti- 
vation. In  Western  Oregon,  the  lands  in  the  valleys  are  among  the 
most  fertile  in  America,  and  produce  large  crops. 

In  1869,  the  agricultural  resources  of  the  State  were  as  follows  : 

Acres  of  improved  land  (estimated),    ....  1,000,000 

Bushels  of  wheat, 1,750,000 

rye, 5,200 

oats, 500,000 

buckwheat, 8,000 

"           Indian  corn, 200,000 

"           barley,        200,000 

"           Irish  potatoes, 500,000 


OREGON.  105T 

Tons  of  hay, 75,000 

Number  of  horses, 49,800 

"          asses  and  mules, 1,560 

"           milch  cows, 79,312 

"           sheep, 101,960 

"           swine, 112,700 

"          young  cattle, 140,500 

Value  of  domestic  animals, $7,946,255 

COMMERCE. 

Oregon  has  some  direct  trade  with  Europe,  South  America,  and  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  but  her  principal  transactions  are  with  San  Fran- 
cisco, between  which  city  and  Portland  (Oregon),  a  line  of  fine  steam- 
ships plies  regularly.  The  exports  are  lumber,  stock,  hogs,  beef, 
butter,  eggs,  chickens,  pork,  flour,  and  fish.  Cattle  raising  forms  an 
important  part  of  the  industry  of  the  State,  and  large  droves  are 
annually  driven  into  California  for  sale. 

Manufactures  are  still  unimportant.  The  annual  product  does  not 
exceed  $3,000,000. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  internal  improvements  of  this  State  consist  of  the  works  that 
have  been  erected  by  a  private  corporation  for  the  improvement  of  the 
navigation  of  the  Columbia  River,  and  the  railroads  built  around  the 
falls  of  that  stream,  and  connecting  the  successive  stages  of  naviga- 
tion. There  are  159  miles  of  railroad  within  the  State.  The  principal 
is  that  of  the  Oregon  Central  Railroad,  which  is  to  extend  from  Port- 
land to  the  California  border,  where  it  will  ultimately  connect  with  a 
road  from  San  Francisco.  It  has  been  completed  from  Portland  to 
Salem. 

EDUCATION. 

There  are  three  colleges  in  the  State.  The  principal  of  these  is  the 
Willamette  University,  at  Salem,  which  is  under  the  charge  of  the 
Methodist  Church.  It  is  an  excellent  institution,  and  has  an  endow- 
ment of  $30,000. 

The  common  school  system  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Eastern  States. 
The  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction  has  the  general  supervision 
of  the  schools.  The  counties  have  each  a  Local  Superintendent,  and 
each  district  is  governed  by  its  Board  of  Trustees.  A  school  fund  has 
been  established,  and  taxes  are  levied  for  the  support  of  the  schools. 
Measures  are  on  foot  for  the  establishment  of  a  State  University. 
67 


1058  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

In  1870,  there  were  594  public  schools  in  the  State,  with  29,822 
pupils. 

In  the  same  year,  there  were  2361  libraries  in  Oregon,  containing 
334,959  volumes. 

The  number  of  newspapers  and  periodicals  was  as  follows :  4  daily, 
26  weekly,  and  5  monthly,  making  a  total  of  35,  with  a  total  annual 
circulation  of  3,657,300  copies. 

PUBLIC    INSTITUTIONS. 

The  Penitentiary  is  located  at  Portland,  and  is  a  flourishing  institu- 
tion. The  convicts  are  confined  in  temporary  quarters,  due  regard 
being  had  to  their  safe  keeping,  and  are  required  to  labor  on  the 
public  buildings. 

Measures  are  being  taken  for  the  erection  of  buildings  for  charitable 
and  benevolent  purposes  by  the  State,  and  as  soon  as  the  pecuniary 
condition  of  the  Commonwealth  will  permit  it,  these  institutions  will 
be  provided.  At  present  the  insane  and  idiotic  are  cared  for  by 
private  persons  at  the  expense  of  the  State. 

RELIGIOUS    DENOMINATIONS. 

In  1870,  there  were  135  churches  in  Oregon.  The  value  of  church 
property  was  $471,100. 

FINANCES. 

In  September,  1870,  the  total  State  debt  was  $218,486.  During 
the  two  fiscal  years  extending  from  September  5th,  1868,  to  September 
5th,  1870,  the  receipts  of  the  Treasury  were  $364,146,  and  the  expen- 
ditures for  the  same  period  $136,590, 

GOVERNMENT. 

Every  male  citizen  of  the  United  States  who  has  resided  in  the 
State  six  months,  and  every  male  foreigner  who  has  lawfully  declared 
his  intention  to  become  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  who  is  twenty- 
one  years  old,  and  has  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  is  entitled  to  vote 
at  the  elections. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  Governor,  Secretary  of  State, 
Treasurer,  Auditor,  and  a  Legislature,  consisting  of  a  Senate  (of  16 
members),  and  a  House  of  Representatives  (of  34  members),  all 


OREGON.  1059 

chosen  by  the  people.  The  State  officers  and  Senators  are  elected 
for  four  years,  and  Representatives  for  two  years.  The  general 
election  is  held  in  June,  and  the  Legislature  meets  biennially  in 
September. 

The  judicial  power  of  the  State  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court  and 
five  Circuit  Courts.  The  judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  are  five  in 
number,  and  are  also  judges  of  the  Circuit  Courts.  They  are  elected 
by  the  people  for  six  years. 

The  seat  of  Government  is  located  at  Salem. 

The  State  is  divided  into  22  counties. 


HISTORY. 

Oregon  was  known  to  various  navigators  during  the  17th  and  18th 
centuries,  but  the  first  white  man  who  entered  it  was  Captain  Robert 
Gray,  of  the  ship  Columbia,  of  Boston,  who  on  the  7th  of  May, 
1792,  entered  and  explored  the  lower  part  of  its  principal  river,  to 
which  he  gave  the  name  of  his  ship.  On  his  return  home  he 
published  a  description  of  the  river  and  its  valley,  which  aroused  so 
much  interest  on  the  part  of  the  Government,  that  in  1804  an  explor- 
ing expedition  was  sent  out  across  the  Continent,  under  Captains  Lewis 
and  Clark,  of  the  United  States  army.  The  explorations  of  this 
party  extended  through  the  years  1804  and  1805,  and  made  known 
for  the  first  time  the  vast  region  watered  by  the  Columbia. 

In  1811,  the  American  Fur  Company,  of  which  John  Jacob  Astor 
was  the  leading  member,  established  a  post  for  trading  purposes  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  and  called  it  Astoria.  It  was  the 
design  of  the  Company  to  make  this  place  an  important  city,  in 
course  of.  time,  but  this  part  of  their  project  failed,  and  they  sold  the 
post  to  the  Northwest  Company  (of  England),  to  save  it  from  capture 
during  the  war  of  1812-15. 

Having  thus  secured  a  lodgement  on  the  Columbia,  the  British 
claimed  the  whole  country.  The  United  States,  on  the  other  hand, 
claimed  the  region  now  known  as  British  Columbia,  and  a  serious 
controversy  set  in  between  the  two  powers.  In  1846,  however,  a 
treaty  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  adjusted  the 
difficulty.  The  United  States  weakly  surrendered  the  greater  part 
of  our  claim,  and  the  present  northern  boundary  of  Washington 
Territory  was  fixed  as  the  northern  boundary  of  Oregon. 

Emigration    to   the   Territory   began    in    1839.      In    1850,   thera 


1060  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

were  about  3000  settlers.  The  gold  excitement  in  California 
drew  off  many,  but  Congress  by  a  liberal  offer  of  lands  induced  a 
sufficient  number  to  remain,  to  prevent  the  country  from  relapsing 
into  its  wild  state.  From  this  time  the  Territory  grew  slowly  but 

steadily. 

On  the  14th  of  August,  1848,  Oregon  was  organized  as  a  Territory, 
and  on  the  2nd  of  March,  1843,  the  northern  half  was  erected  into  a 
separate  establishment,  and  called  Washington  Territory.  In 
November,  1857,  a  State  Constitution  was  adopted  by  the  people,  and 
on  the  14th  of  February,  1859,  Oregon  was  admitted  into  the  Union 
as  a  sovereign  State. 

The  Indians  for  a  long  time  caused  great  trouble  to  the  people  of 
Oregon,  and  greatly  hindered  its  growth.  They  have  now  ceased 
their  depradations,  and  the  State  is  growing  in  population  and  in 
material  prosperity. 

CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  places  in  the  State  are,  Portland, 
Oregon  City,  Albany,  Corvallis,  and  Eugene  City. 

SALEM, 

The  capital  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Marion  county,  on  the  right  or 
eastern  bank  of  the  Willamette  River,  50  miles  south-southwest  of 
Portland,  and  710  miles  north  of  San  Francisco.  Latitude  44°  56' 
N.,  longitude  123°  V  W.  The  city  lies  in  a  rich  prairie  country,  in 
the  midst  of  some  of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  of  the  State.  It 
contains  the  State  buildings,  6  or  7  churches,  4  hotels,  a  theatre,  2 
newspaper  offices,  and  several  schools.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Willamette 
University.  It  has  1  woollen  mill,  1  flour  mill,  3  saw  mills,  2 
machine  shops,  and  1  foundry,  in  successful  operation.  Travellers 
who  have  seen  it,  describe  it  as  one  of  the  prettiest  and  most  enter- 
prising towns  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  Willamette  is  navigable  to 
Salem  for  small  steamers  during  the  season  of  high  water,  or  for 
about  9  months  in  the  year.  In  1870,  the  population  was  2842. 

PORTLAND, 

The  largest  and  most  important  city  of  the  State,  is  situated  in  Mul- 
tuomah  county,  on  the  left  or  west  bank  of  the  Willamette  River,  15 
miles  from  its  mouth,  50  miles  north-by-east  of  Salem,  and  120  miles 


OREGON.  1061 

from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  The  city  is  beautifully 
situated  in  a  lovely  country,  and  is  well  built,  the  houses  being  mostly 
of  wood.  It  stands  on  a  plateau,  which  gradually  increases  in  height 
as  it  recedes  from  the  river,  until  it  forms  a  range  of  hills  at  the 
western  extremity  of  the  city.  From  the  summit  of  this  range  a 
magnificent  view  is  obtained  of  Mounts  Hood,  Jefferson,  and  St. 
Helen,  of  the  Cascade  Range,  and  the  windings  of  the  Willamette 
and  Columbia  rivers.  Portland  contains  4  or  5  churches,  several 
schools,  3  newspaper  offices  and  a  public  library.  It  is  the  seat 
of  the  State  Penitentiary  and  the  Insane  A&ylum.  The  Oregon 
Iron  Works  and  2  assay  offices  are  located  here.  It  is  governed 
by  a  Mayor  and  Council,  and  in  1870,  it  contained  a  population  of 
8293. 

Portland  lies  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation  on  the  Willamette, 
and  is  the  centre  of  a  large  and  growing  trade,  with  the  magnificent 
region  to  the  north  and  northwest  of  it.  It  has  telegraphic  communi- 
cation with  San  Francisco,  and  is  connected  with  Sacramento  by  a 
line  of  daily  stages.  Upwards  of  20  river  steamers  ply  between 
Portland  and  the  various  towns  on  the  Columbia  and  Willamette 
rivers.  A  line  of  steamships  connects  the  city  with  San  Francisco. 
Says  Mr.  Samuel  Bowles,  in  his  "  New  West : " 

"  Ships  and  ocean  steamers  of  the  highest  class  come  readily  hither ; 
from  it  spreads  out  a  wide  navigation  by  steamboat  of  the  Columbia 
and  its  branches,  below  and  above ;  here  centres  a  large  and  increasing 
trade,  not  only  for  the  Willamette  Valley,  but  for  the  mining  regions 
of  Eastern  Oregon  and  Idaho,  Washington  Territory  on  the  north, 
and  parts  even  of  British  Columbia  beyond.  Even  Salt  Lake  and 
Montana,  too,  have  taken  groceries  and  dry  goods  through  this 
channel,  such  are  the  attained  and  the  attainable  water  communications 
through  the  far-extending  Columbia. 

"  The  population  of  Portland  is  now  from  eight  to  ten  thousand, 
who  keep  Sunday  with  as  much  strictness  almost  as  Puritanic  New 
England  does,  which  can  be  said  of  no  other  population  this  side 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  at  least.  Whether  this  fact  has  anything 
to  do. with  it  or  not,  real  estate  we  found  to  be  very  high  in  Portland, 
$400  a  front  foot  for  the  best  lots,  100  feet  deep  on  the  main  business 
street,  without  the  buildings.  In  religion,  the  Methodists  have  the 
lead,  and  control  an  academic  school  in  the  town,  and  a  professed 
State  University  at  Salem ;  the  Presbyterians  are  next,  with  a  beauti- 
ful church  and  the  most  fashionable  congregation,  and  favor  a  strug- 


1062  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

gling  University  about  20  miles  off  in  the  valley;  perhaps  the 
Catholics  rank  third,  with  a  large  Sisters  of  Charity  establishment 
and  school  within  the  city.  Iron  mines  are  successfully  worked  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  the  city  has  prosperous  iron  founderies  and 
machine  shops,  and  is  reaching  forward  to  other  manufacturing 


successes/' 


Portland  was  founded  in  1845,  by  Messrs  Pettigrew  and  Lovejoy, 
and  was  named  after  Portland  in  Maine,  the  native  place  of  the 
former. 


PART    VI. 
THE    TERRITORIES, 


ALASKA. 

Area,  . 577,390  Square  Miles. 

Population, 75,000  (including  65,000  Indians). 

THE  Territory  of  Alaska  comprises  that  portion  of  North  America 
lying  north  of  the  parallel  of  54°  40'  N.  latitude,  and  west  of  the 
meridian  of  141°  W.  longitude.  Within  these  limits  are  included 
many  islands  lying  along  the  coast,  and  extending  west  from  the 
main  land. 

The  boundaries  are  as  follows :  Commencing  at  54°  40'  N.  lati- 
tude, ascending  Portland  Channel  to  the  mountains,  following  their 
summits  to  the  141°  west  longitude;  thence  north,  on  this  line,  to  the 
Arctic  Ocean,  forming  the  eastern  boundary.  Starting  from  the  Arctic 
Ocean  west,  the  line  descends  Behring's  Strait,  between  the  two 
islands  of  Krusenstern  and  Ratmanoff,  to  the  parallel  of  65°  30',  and 
proceeds  due  north  without  limitation,  into  the  same  Arctic  Ocean. 
Beginning  again  at  the  same  initial  point,  on  the  parallel  of  65°  30', 
thence  in  a  course  southwest  through  Behring's  Strait,  between  the 
island  of  St.  Lawrence  and  Cape  Choukotski  to  the  172°  west  longi- 
tude; and  thence  southwesterly,  through  Behring's  sea,  between  the 
islands  of  Attou  and  Copper,  to  the  meridian  of  193°  west  longitude; 
leaving  the  prolonged  group  of  the  Aleutian  islands  in  the  possessions 
now  transferred  to  the  United  States,  and  making  the  western  bound- 
ary of  our  country  the  dividing  line  between  Asia  and  America. 

"  With  the  exception  of  the  narrow  strip  extending  in  a  southeast 
direction  along  the  coast  nearly  400  miles,  and  the  remarkable  penin- 
sula of  Alaska,  it  forms  a  tolerably  compact  mass,  with  an  average 
length  and  breadth  of  about  600  miles  each.  Its  greatest  length, 
north  and  south,  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Alaska  to  Point  Bar- 

1065 


1066  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

row,  is  about  1100  miles;  its  greatest  breadth,  measured  on  the  Arctic 
Circle,  which  passes  through  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  is  about  800  miles ; 
the  longest  line  that  can  be  drawn  across  the  country  is  from  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales  to  its  southern  extremity,  latitude  54°  40',  a  distance 
of  about  1600-miles.  Estimated  area,  394,000  square  miles.  The  part 
of  the  mainland  south  of  Mount  St.  Elias  consists  of  a  narrow  belt, 
which  is  continued  along  a  mountain  ridge  parallel  to  the  coast,  and 
has  nowhere  a  greater  width  than  about  33  miles.  The  interior  of  the 
country  is  very  little  known ;  but  from  several  expeditions,  it  appears 
that  throughout  its  western  part  it  is  elevated  and  uneven,  while  the 
part  extending  along  the  Arctic  Ocean  is  invariably  flat,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  small  portion  lying  between  141°  and  152°  W.  longitude. 
The  coasts  of  the  mainland  and  the  islands  have  almost  all  been  care- 
fully explored.  The  northern  coast  was  first  discovered  in  the  course 
of  the  present  century.  Captain  Cook,  in  1778,  during  his  last 
voyage,  reached  Icy  Cape,  latitude  70°  20'  N.,  and  161°  46'  W. ;  and 
it  was  supposed,  from  the  large  masses  of  ice  there  met  with,  even  in 
summer,  that  further  progress  was  impossible.  In  1826,  however, 
Captain  Beechy  proceeded  east  as  far  as  North  Cape,  or  Point  Barrow, 
latitude  71°  23'  31"  N.,  longitude  156°  21'  32"  W.;  while  at  the 
same  time  the  lamented  Sir  John  Franklin,  then  Captain  Franklin, 
traced  the  coast  west  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  to  Return  Reef, 
latitude  70°  26'  N.,  longitude  148°  52'  W.  The  intervening  space 
between  Point  Barrow  and  Return  Reef  was  first  explored  in  1837, 
by  Dease  and  Simpson,  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

"  The  whole  of  the  northern  coast  of  Russian  America,  from  De- 
marcation Point  west  to  Point  Barrow,  its  northernmost  extremity, 
stretches  with  tolerable  regularity  in  a  west-northwest  direction,  and 
is,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  part  in  the  east,  a  dead  flat,  often 
nearly  on  a  level  with  the  sea,  and  never  more  than  from  10  to  20  feet 
above  it.  From  Point  Barrow  the  coast  takes  a  uniform  direction, 
from  northeast  to  southwest,  rising  gradually  towards  Cape  Lisburn, 
which  is  850  feet  high.  It  here  turns  south,  forming,  between  the 
two  large  inlets  of  Kotzebue  Sound  and  Norton  Sound,  the  remarkable 
peninsula  of  Prince  of  Wales,  which  projects  into  Behring's  Strait, 
and  terminates  in  an  elevated  promontory,  forming  the  northwestern 
part  of  North  America.  From  Norton  Sound  it  turns  first  southwest, 
then  south-southeast,  becoming  indented  by  several  large  bays,  includ- 
ing those  of  Bristol  Bay  and  Cook's  Inlet,  on  the  opposite  of  the  long 
and  narrow  peninsula  of  Alaska ;  and  is  lined  almost  throughout  by 


ALASKA.  1067 

several  groups  of  large  islands,  of  which  the  most  important  belong 
to  the  Aleutian,  Kodiak,  and  King  George  III.  Archipelagoes.  The 
greater  part  of  the  coast  last  described  is  very  bold,  presenting  a  suc- 
cession of  lofty  volcanic  peaks." 

The  interior  has  been  very  little  explored.  The  latest  discoveries 
were  made  by  the  party  engaged  in  surveying  the  route  for  the  over- 
land telegraph  to  Russia. 

The  coast  line  of  the  Territory  is  about  4000  miles  in  extent.  In- 
cluding bays  and  rivers  it  exceeds  11,000  miles.  The  peninsula  of 
Alaska  is  300  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  breadth  of  50  miles. 
The  Aleutian  Islands  are  the  summits  of  a  mountain  range,  which 
extends  northward  on  the  American  coast,  around  the  head  of  Prince 
William  and  Cook's  Inlet,  and  down  the  peninsula  of  Alaska.  They 
form  a  perfect  curve  southward,  westward,  and  northward,  from  the 
extremity  of  the  peninsula  to  Behring's  Island,  a  distance  of  1075 
miles,  and  constitute  the  most  wonderful  range  of  volcanic  islands  in 
the  Western  World.  The  six  largest  are  all  inhabited.  The  southern 
sides  of  these  islands  are  generally  steep  and  without  indentation, 
consequently  the  inhabitants  dwell  on  the  north  side,  where  the  harbors 
are  good.  The  islands  have  an  area  of  from  350  to  1500  square  miles. 
They  are  Ounimak,  Ounalaska,  Oumnak,  Atkha,  Amchitka,  and 
Attou.  Ounalaska  has  700  inhabitants ;  the  others  each  about  half  that 
number.  In  Behring's  Sea  are  the  islands  of  St.  Lawrence  and 
Noumbak,  each  possessing  an  area  of  more  than  2000  square  miles. 

There  are  several  rivers  in  the  Territory.  The  principal  stream  is 
the  Yukon,  which  flows  into  Behring's  Sea,  south  of  Norton's  Sound. 
The  Russians  gave  the  name  of  Kwichpak  to  the  lower  part  of  this 
river.  Like  the  Mississippi  it  discharges  its  waters  through  a  num- 
ber of  mouths,  and  its  "  delta  "  embraces  nearly  two  degrees  of  lati- 
tude. It  is  2000  miles  long,  is  navigable  for  nearly  1500  miles,  and 
is  free  from  ice  between  the  middle  of  May  and  the  middle  of  October. 

The  mountains  are  high  and  imposing.  The  height  of  Mount  St. 
Elias  is  estimated  at  from  15,000  to  18,000  feet.  Although  situated 
40  miles  from  the  coast,  it  is  seen  at  sea  at  a  distance  of  100  miles 
from  the  land.  Mount  Fairweather  is  100  miles  to  the  southeast  of 
it,  and  is  almost  as  high.  Several  active  volcanoes,  some  of  which  are 
10,000  feet  high,  lie  within  the  Territory. 

The  climate  is  variable,  but  is  milder  than  that  of  the  same  latitudes 
on  the  Atlantic  coast.  "The  investigations  which  have  attended  and 
followed  the  change  in  the  political  relations  of  the  country,  have 


1068 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


developed  some  new  facts  with  regard  to  it.  The  great  extent  of  the 
Territory  gives  it  a  corresponding  variety  of  climate,  but  the  mean 
temperature  is  but  little  colder  than  that  of  Maine  and  New  Bruns- 
wick, owing  to  the  thermal  current  from  the  shores  of  Asia ;  the 
atmosphere  is  very  humid,  and  a  large  quantity  of  rain  falls  in  winter. 
The  interior  has  been  but  litle  explored,  and  is  an  almost  unknown 
wilderness,  the  haunt  of  the  Indians,  and  of  the  fur-bearing  animals. 
Along  many  of  the  streams  there  is  an  abundance  of  timber,  mostly 
of  pine.  The  agricultural  resources  of  the  country  form  a  very  incon- 
siderable item  in  an  account  of  its  value  as  an  acquisition  to  the 
United  States,  yet  the  districts  along  the  coast  are  capable  of  yielding, 
in  moderate  quantities,  the  cereal  grains  and  the  more  valuable  vege- 
tables of  the  temperate  zone.  The  precious  metals  are  known  to  exist 
there,  but  it  is  a  fact  of  more  importance  that  iron  and  coal  are  found 
in  considerable  abundance,  and  can  be  obtained  at  no  very  great  ex- 
pense. Two  mines  have  for  some  time  been  successfully  worked  on 
the  Aleutian  Islands,  and,  with  the  iron  works  which  they  supply, 
are  of  great  importance  to  vessels  needing  repair  and  in  want  of  fuel. 
The  principal  value  of  the  Territory  of  Alaska,  for  the  present,  will 


ALASKA.  1069 

depend  on  its  fisheries  and  its  fur  productions.  The  supply  of  furs  is 
on  the  decrease,  owing  to  the  active  traffic  which  had  been  carried  on 
in  that  commodity,  but  the  fisheries  are  inexhaustible.  Salmon  abound 
in  the  rivers,  and  cod  and  halibut  on  the  coasts.  Whales  and  walrus 
are  plentiful  in  the  seas  to  the  south  of  Behring's  Strait." 

There  are  about  10,000  persons,  besides  Indians,  in  the  Territory, 
including  the  military  force  stationed  there.  These  consist  of  Ameri- 
cans, who  have  gone  there  since  the  purchase,  Russians,  Creoles, 
Kodiaks,  and  Aleoots.  The  native  or  Indian  inhabitants,  some 
65,000  in  number,  dwell  principally  along  the  coast  and  rivers,  where 
fish  and  game  are  plentiful.  They  learn  quickly,  and  exhibit  a  de- 
cided aptitude  for  commerce  and  the  mechanic  arts.  They  show 
great  skill  in  fashioning  their  rude  instruments  of  warfare  and  domes- 
tic utensils.  Many  of  them,  however,  are  vagabondish,  and  bear  an 
unenviable  reputation. 

There  is  as  yet  no  organized  civil  government  for  the  Territory. 
The  Government  of  the  United  States  maintains  and  exercises  its  au- 
thority through  the  military  force  stationed  at  Sitka  and  other  places. 
During  the  last  session  of  Congress,  an  unsuccessful  effort  was  made 
to  organize  Alaska  as  a  county  of  Washington  Territory. 

This  extensive  Territory,  formerly  known  as  Russian  America,  was 
granted  by  the  Emperor  Paul  VIII.,  of  Russia,  in  July,  1799,  to  a 
Russian-American  Fur  Company.  In  1867,  it  was  purchased  by  the 
United  States  from  the  Emperor  of  Russia,  for  the  sum  of  $7,200,000. 
In  July,  1868,  Congress  extended  over  the  Territory  the  laws  of  the 
United  States  relating  to  customs,  commerce,  and  navigation,  and 
established  a  collection  district.  In  August,  1868,  the  military  dis- 
trict of  Alaska  was  established,  and  attached  to  the  Department  of 
California. 

SITKA,  or,  NEW  ARCHANGEL,  on  the  island  of  Sitka,  is  the  seat 
of  Government.  It  contains  a  population  of  about  500  Russians, 
Cossacks,  and  Creoles,  besides  the  garrison,  and  there  are  about  1000 
Indians  in  the  vicinity.  It  has  but  one  street,  with  straggling  log 
houses.  It  contains  the  "  Governor's  House,"  now  the  headquarters 
of  the  military  commander,  a  Greek  church,  a  Lutheran  chapel,  and 
the  buildings  of  the  Russian-American  Fur  Company. 

"  The  town  is  situated  on  a  low  strip  of  land,  the  Governor's  House 
rising  on  a  rocky  height  100  feet  or  so  above  the  general  level. 
Snow-capped  and  peaked  mountains,  and  thickly  wooded  hills  sur- 


1070 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


SITKA. 

round  it,  and  Mount  Edgecurabe,  on  Crooze  Island,  immediately 
opposite  the  town,  an  extinct  volcano,  8000  feet  in  height,  is  the  great 
land-mark  of  this  port — the  most  northern  harbor  on  the  Pacific 
shores  of  America.  The  coloring  of  the  town  is  gay,  and  the  sur- 
roundings picturesque.  The  houses  yellow,  with  sheet  iron  roofs 
painted  red ;  the  bright  green  spire  and  dome  of  the  Greek  church, 
and  the  old  battered  hulks,  roofed  in  and  used  as  magazines,  lying 
propped  up  on  the  rocks  at  the  water's  edge,  with  the  antiquated 
buildings  of  the  Russian  Fur  Company,  give  Sitka  an  original, 
foreign,  and  fossilized  kind  of  appearance." 


ARIZONA. 

Area,      .    • 113,916  square  miles. 

Population  in  1870, 9,658 

THE  Territory  of  Arizona  lies  between  31°  20'  and  37°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  109°  and  114°  W.  longitude.  Its  extreme  length,  from 
north  to  south,  is  about  400  miles,  and  its  extreme  width,  from  east  to 
west,  about  330  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Utah  Territory 
and  Nevada;  on  the  east  by  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico;  on  the  south 
by  the  Republic  of  Mexico;  and  on  the  west  by  California  and 
Nevada. 

A  large  part  of  the  Territory  is  mountainous.  Numerous  ranges 
traverse  it  in  a  generally  northwest  and  southeast  direction.  The 
principal  ranges  are  the  Sierra  del  Carrizo,  in  the  northern  part ;  the 
Mogollon  Mountains,  in  the  eastern  part ;  the  Pinaleno,  or  Pinon 
Llano  mountains,  in  the  southeastern  part;  Mt.  San  Francisco,  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  central  portion,  and  the  Aztec  Mountains,  in  the 
west.  As  a  general  rule,  the  surface  of  the  Territory  is  elevated  and 
mountainous,  and  a  large  portion  is  believed  to  be  of  volcanic  origin. 
It  also  contains  a  number  of  extensive  plains  without  trees. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Colorado,  which  forms  a  part  of  the 
northern  and  western  boundaries,  the  Little  Colorado,  the  Gila,  which 
flows  westward  across  the  southern  part  of  the  Territory,  the  Santa 
Oruz,  the  Bill  Williams  Fork  of  the  Colorado,  the  Rio  Verde,  the  Rio 
San  Pedro,  and  the  Rio  Salinas.  The  Colorado  is  navigable  for 
steamers  for  about  600  miles  within  the  limits  of  Arizona.  Its  navi- 
gation is  difficult  and  dangerous,  however,  in  consequence  of  the  force 
of  the  current,  and  the  frequent  shifting  of  the  channel.  In  spite  of 
these  obstacles  the  water  communication  which  it  furnishes  from  por- 

1071 


1072 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


AZTEC  MOUNTAINS. 

tions  of  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  Nevada,  and  Utah,  to  the  sea,  is  of  the 
greatest  value  to  those  regions. 

Gold,  silver,  copper,  mercury,  and  lead,  are  found  in  the  Territory. 
Valuable  silver  mines  are  worked  in  the  central  and  southern  portions 
of  Arizona,  especially  along  the  Colorado  and  Gila  rivers.  The  great 
drawbacks  to  the  success  of  mining  enterprises  in  this  Territory  are 
the  scarcity  of  water  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines,  and  the  hostility  of 
the  Indians.  It  is  believed  that  the  mineral  wealth  of  Arizona  very 
largely  exceeds  the  discoveries  that  have  thus  far  been  made. 

A  very  large  part  of  the  land  is  utterly  barren.  The  basin  of  the 
Colorado  consists  of  elevated  table-lands,  broken  by  mountain  ranges. 
The  valleys  of  these  ranges  are  fertile.  South  of  the  Gild,  and  west 
of  the  112th  meridian,  the  country  is  sandy,  and  not  generally  fertile, 
except  along  the  river.  In  other  portions,  there  are  many  rich  valleys 
and  fertile  prairies,  containing  millions  of  acres,  and  producing  wheat, 
barley,  oats,  tobacco,  vegetables,  and  fruits.  Cotton  and  sugar  grow 
well  in  the  south,  and  grazing  lands,  of  the  finest  quality,  are  abun- 
dant. Wood  is  scarce  throughout  the  Territory,  and,  in  many  parts, 
is  entirely  absent.  In  the  north-central  portion  is  a  large  forest  of 
yellow  pine,  interspersed  with  oak.  Cottonwood  grows  along  the 
shores  of  the  streams.  In  the  southeast  part  grows  a  low,  stunted 
tree,  called  the  Mezquit.  It  is  of  no  use  for  building,  but  is  said  to 
be  valuable  for  mining  purposes. 


ARIZONA.  1073 

The  climate  is  mild.  In  southern  Arizona,  and  along  a  portion  of 
the  Colorado,  the  summers  are  too  warm  to  allow  the  performance 
of  work  in  the  open  air.  In  the  central  portion  the  sun  is  rarely  so 
oppressive.  In  the  mountain  regions  the  nights  are  always  cool. 
Snow  falls  in  the  central  and  northern  portion,  but  does  not  remain 
long  upon  the  ground. 

The  Territory  is  sparsely  inhabited,  the  settlements  being  confined 
to  the  southern  portion.  Its  population  in  1870  is  no  larger  than 
that  of  1850.  The  inhabitants  consist  of  American  settlers,  miners, 
Spanish,  half-breeds,  and  Indians.  The  towns  are  built  chiefly  of 
adobe,  or  sun-dried  bricks,  and  bear  a  close  resemblance  to  the  Mexi- 
can towns,  having  but  few  marks  of  American  civilization  about 
them.  The  greatest  obstacle  to  the  settlement  of  the  Territory  has 
been  the  merciless  depredations  of  the  Apachee  Indians.  The  military 
force  of  the  United  States  stationed  in  the  Territory  is  small,  and  the 
people  are  obliged  to  protect  themselves  by  volunteer  companies.  The 
Governor,  in  his  last  message,  urges  the  people  to  form  military 
companies  in  all  the  settlements,  and  to  exterminate  the  Apachees  as 
far  as  possible. 

There  are  no  railways  or  telegraphs,  and  no  public  schools  in  the 
Territory.  The  Governor  and  Secretary  are  appointed  by  the  Presi- 
dent. The  Legislature  and  other  officials  are  all  elected  by  the  people. 
The  principal  towns  are  Tucson,  containing  3000  inhabitants,  Pres- 
cott,  with  1200  inhabitants,  and  Arizona  City,  with  a  population  of 
600.  They  are  all  wretched  places,  built  of  adobe,  and  filled  with 
dirt  and  half  civilized  people.  Ross  Browne  thus  describes  Tucson  : 
"A  city  of  mud  boxes,  dingy  and  dilapidated,  cracked  and  baked  into 
a  composite  of  dust  and  filth ;  littered  about  with  broken  corrals, 
sheds,  bake-ovens,  carcasses  of  dead  animals,  and  broken  pottery ; 
barren  of  verdure,  parched,  naked,  and  grimly  desolate  in  the  glare 
of  a  southern  sun.  Adobe  walls  without  whitewash  inside  or  out, 
hard  earthen  floors,  baked  and  dried  Mexicans,  sore-backed  burros, 
Coyote  dogs,  and  terra-cotta  children;  soldiers,  teamsters,  and  honest 
miners  lounging  about  the  mescal  shops,  soaked  with  the  fiery  poison; 
a  noisy  band  of  Sonoranian  buffoons,  dressed  in  theatrical  costume, 
cutting  their  antics  in  the  public  places  to  the  most  diabolical  din  of 
fiddles  and  guitars  ever  heard ;  a  long  train  of  Government  wagons 
preparing  to  start  for  Fort  Yuma  or  the  Rio  Grande — these  are  what 
the  traveller  sees,  and  a  great  many  things  more,  but  in  vain  he  looks 
for  a  hotel  or  lodging  house.  The  best  accommodations  he  can  pos- 
68 


1074  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

sibly  expect  are  the  dried  mud  walls  of  some  unoccupied  outhouse, 
with  a  mud  floor  for  his  bed ;  his  own  food  to  eat,  and  his  own  cook 
to  prepare  it;  and  lucky  is  he  to  possess  such  luxuries  as  these." 

Arizona  was  settled  by  the  Spanish  missionaries  from  Mexico  as 
early  as  1687.  Their  missions  were  located  principally  on  the  Lower 
Colorado  and  Lower  Gila.  It  formed  a  part  of  Mexico  until  its  pur- 
chase in  1850  by  the  United  States.  On  the  24th  of  February,  1863, 
Congress  organized  the  present  Territory  of  Arizona,  adding  to  the 
original  Gadsden  purchase  a  considerable  part  of  New  Mexico. 


COLO  BAD  O. 

Area,      104,500  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1870, 39,864 

THE  Territory  of  Colorado  lies  between  37°  and  41°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  102°  and  109°  W.  longitude.  It  is  about  375  miles 
long,  from  east  to  west,  and  275  miles  wide,  from  north  to  south. 

The  surface  of  the  Territory  is  mountainous.  Here  are  to  be  found 
some  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  range,  which  passes, 
from  north  to  south,  through  the  middle  of  the  Territory.  "The 
average  height  of  these  mountains  is  12,000  feet,  though  many  of  the 
peaks  rise  from  2000  to  5000  feet  higher.  The  foot  hills  flank  the 
range  on  either  hand  to  a  distance  of  50  miles ;  to  the  eastward  sub- 
siding into  the  plains ;  to  the  westward  sloping  to  the  base  of  other 
and  continuous  ranges  of  lesser  height  which  fill  the  spaces  thence  to 
the  Pacific.  This  majestic  range  holds  within  its  folds  the  North, 
South,  Middle,  and  San  Luis  Parks,  immense  areas  of  level  land — 
surrounded  by  snowy  mountains — each  having  a  soil,  climate,  and 
geological  formation  peculiar  and  distinctive.  The  plains  imper- 
ceptibly slope  from  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  rise  abruptly 
from  them  to  the  Missouri  River ;  presenting  a  smooth,  undulating 
surface,  destitute  of  timber,  save  in  the  valleys  of  the  water-courses, 
and  upon  the  high  land,  which,  near  the  mountains,  divides  the 
waters  of  the  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers." 

The  Platte  and  Arkansas  rivers  rise  near  the  centre  of  the  Terri- 
tory, and  drain  the  eastern  part.  From  the  western  slopes  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  flow  the  Tampa  or  Bear  River,  the  Bunkara  and 
the  Gunison  rivers.  The  Bunkara  and  Gunison  unite  in  the  western 
part  and  form  the  Grand  River,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Colorado- 

1075 


1076 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


-:• 


BUFFALO   HUNTING. 

The  Rio  Grande  rises  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Territory  and  flows 
southward. 

Colorado  is  very  rich  in  mineral  deposits.  Gold  and  silver  are 
abundant  in  the  central  part  among  the  mountains.  Copper,  iron, 
coal,  salt,  limestone,  and  gypsum  also  exist  in  large  quantities.  The 
gold  mines  have  thus  far  almost  monopolized  the  attention  of  capital- 
ists. There  is  a  branch  of  the  United  States  Mint  at  Denver,  at 
which  large  quantities  of  the  precious  metals  are  assayed.  "The 
mountain  region/7  says  a  pamphlet,  published  by  the  Denver  Board 
of  Trade,  "contains  mines  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  and  lead,  which  are 
destined,  under  the  influence  of  capital  and  cheap  labor,  to  give  to  the 
American  people  for  all  time  the  monetary  supremacy  of  the  commer- 
cial world.  The  mineral  belt  extends  the  whole  length  of  the  range, 
and  includes  thirty  miles  of  each  of  its  flanks,  making  an  aggregate  of 
14,000  square  miles  of  mineral  land.  In  the  two  counties  of  Gilpin 
and  Clear  Creek,  alone,  not  less  than  12,000  distinct  lodes  have  been 
discovered  and  recorded,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  of  this  number  there 
are  not  less  than  100  capable  of  annually  yielding,  under  favorable 
circumstances,  such  as  the  completion  of  projected  railroads  will 
secure,  $500,000  each,  a  total  of  $50,000,000." 

The  Territory  is  deficient  in  timber.  In  the  eastern  portion  are 
extensive  sandy  plains,  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  the  wild  sage 
and  prickly  pear.  Large  herds  of  the  buffalo,  elk,  antelope,  and  deer 
roam  over  the  unsettled  portions  of  the  Territory.  The  bear  is  also 
found  in  the  mountains,  and  along  the  lakes  and  marshes  are  to  be 
found  wild  ducks  and  geese. 


COLORADO.  107T 

Hall,  in  his  "  Emigrants'  and  Settlers7  Guide,"  thus  speaks  of  the 
climate  and  productions  of  Colorado : 

"  The  climate  of  Colorado  varies  with  its  height,  both  as  to  tempera- 
ture and  the  amount  of  rain  and  snow.  The  climate  of  that  portion 
lying  at  the  base  and  east  of  the  mountains  is  not  only  delightful  but 
remarkably  healthy.  The  frosts  come  generally  early  in  the  autumn, 
and  continue  far  into  the  spring  months,  but  they  are  not  severe.  On 
the  plains,  the  snows  of  winter  are  never  sufficient  to  prevent  cattle 
of  all  kinds  from  thriving  and  fattening  on  the  nutritious  grass,  dried 
up  and  thus  cured  by  nature  in  July  and  August.  Throughout  the 
winter  months,  with  rare  exceptions,  the  sun  blazes  down  with  an 
almost  tropic  glow,  little  or  no  snow  falls,  and  although  the  nights  are 
sometimes  sharp  and  frosty,  there  is  no  steady  intensity  of  cold.  With 
such  a  climate,  Colorado  could  not  well  be  otherwise  than  healthy.  The 
sanitary  condition  of  the  Territory  is  good,  and  the  number  of  deaths, 
considering  the  labor  and  exposure  to  which  the  great  majority  of  its 
inhabitants  are  subjected,  remarkably  small.  In  a  country  so  remote 
from  the  agricultural  districts  of  the  States,  and  where  the  expense,  of 
transporting  supplies  is  so  heavy,  the  need  of  home  production  is  neces- 
sarily very  great.  The  rather  scanty  opportunities  which  Colorado 
presents  as  a  field  for  agriculture  have  been,  however,  improved  to  the 
utmost.  An  extensive  system  of  irrigation  has  been  introduced,  wjiich, 
it  is  thought,  will  relieve  the  settlers  from  lack  of  rain  and  other  dif- 
ficulties which  have  hitherto  limited  agricultural  progress.  As  regards 
the  production  of  grain,  the  crops  on  the  various  branches  of  the 
South  Platte,  Arkansas,  Fontain  que  Bruille,  afford  encouraging 
prospects. 

"  In  the  southern  part  of  the  Territory  considerable  attention  has 
been  paid  to  the  raising  of  wheat,  corn,  barley,  and  other  cereals ;  but 
the  continuance  of  dry  weather  presents  a  formidable  obstacle  to  great 
success  in  this  direction.  The  bottom  lands  of  the  Platte  River  and 
other  mountain  streams  have  a  rich  alluvial  deposit,  which  only 
requires  water  at  long  intervals  to  promote  an  astonishing  vegetable 
growth.  All  the  succulent  varieties  of  plants,  such  as  potatoes,  cab- 
bages, onions,  squashes,  etc.,  attain  an  enormous  size,  retaining  the 
tenderness,  juiciness,  and  sweetness  which  almost  everywhere  else  be- 
long only  to  the  smaller  varieties.  The  wild  fruits  of  the  Territory 
are  also  numerous  and  abundant.  It  is  believed  that  Colorado  will, 
in  a  few  years,  be  able  to  supply  her  own  home  demand  for  the  neces- 
saries of  life.  As  a  grazing  and  stock-raising  region,  Colorado  pos4 


LOTS  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

sesses  great  advantages.  Near  the  base  of  the  Rocky  ranges,  and 
along  the  valleys  of  the  streams  which  have  their  origin  in  the  moun- 
tains, vegetation  is  prolific.  The  grasses  are  not  only  abundant,  but 
they  contain  more  nutriment  than  the  cultivated  species  of  the  most 
prosperous  agricultural  districts  of  the  Mississippi  valley.  These 
grasses  cure  standing,  and  cattle  have  been  known  to  feed  and  thrive 
upon  them  throughout  the  entire  winter  months." 

In  1870,  the  Territory  produced  860,000  bushels  of  wheat,  575,000 
bushels  of  corn,  825,000  bushels  of  oats  and  barley,  and  800,000 
bushels  of  potatoes.  The  entire  wealth  of  the  Territory  has  been 
stated  at  $50,000,000.  During  the  year  1870,  gold  and  silver  were 
shipped  from  the  Territory  to  the  amount  of  $5,454,000.  A  School 
of  Mines  has  been  established  at  Golden  City. 

There  is  a  system  of  public  schools  in  operation  in  the  Territory, 
under  the  supervision  of  the  Territorial  Treasurer,  who  is  also  the 
Superintendent  of  Public  Education.  The  system  is  yet  in  its  infancy, 
but  gives  promise  of  future  usefulness.  The  Legislature,  at  its  last 
session,  established  an  Agricultural  College. 

The  finances  of  the  Territory  are  in  a  prosperous  condition.  The 
annual  expenses  of  the  Territorial  Government  are  about  $30,000,  and 
are  fully  covered  by  the  receipts  of  the  Treasury. 

The  Government,  as  in  all  the  other  Territories,  consists  of  a  Gov- 
ernor and  Secretary,  appointed  by  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
and  a  Treasurer,  Auditor,  and  Adjutant-General,  elected  by  the 
people  of  the  Territory.  The  Legislature  consists  of  a  Council  of  13 
members,  and  a  House  of  Representatives  of  26  members.  The  judi- 
cial power  of  the  Territory  is  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court,  District 
Courts,  Probate  Courts,  and  Justices  of  the  Peace.  The  Supreme 
Court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and  two  Associates,  appointed  by  the 
President  of  the  United  States  for  a  term  of  four  years.  For  District 
Court  purposes  the  Territory  is  divided  into  three  districts,  in  each  of 
which  a  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  "holds  the  sessions.  There  is 
also  in  each  district  a  Clerk  of  the  Court,  who  appoints  deputies  for 
every  county.  The  Supreme  and  District  Courts  have  chancery  as 
well  as  common  law  jurisdiction. 

In  1859  gold  was  discovered  in  Colorado,  in  the  vicinity  of  Pike's 
Peak,  and  emigrants  flocked  to  the  Territory,  and  by  1860  it  con- 
tained 34,277  inhabitants.  In  March,  1861,  the  Territory  of  Colo- 
rado was  organized,  being  constructed  of  portions  of  Kansas,  Nebraska, 
and  Utah.  The  Territory  has  several  times  applied  for  admission 


COLORADO. 


1079 


A  CANON  IN   COLORADO. 

into  the  Union  as  a  State,  but  without  success.     It  is  believed,  how- 
ever, that  its  admission  will  soon  take  place  now. 

The  principal  towns  are  Denver,  Central  City,  Golden  City,  and 
Colorado  City. 

DENVER,  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  is  thus  described  in  the 
publication  of  the  Denver  Board  of  Trade,  from  which  w<3  have 
quoted  : 

"  Denver  is  beautifully  situated,  on  a  plain,  at  the  junction  of 
Cherry  Creek  with  the  South  Platte,  12  miles  from  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  with  an  altitude  of  5000  feet  above  tide  level.  The  popu- 
lation is  about  6000.  Men  from  the  East  gaze  with  astonishment  on 
this  compactly  built,  busy  settlement,  with  the  peculiarities  to  the  full 
of  a  large  city,  standing  in  the  '  Great  American  Desert,'  700  miles 
from  what  has  hitherto  been  supposed  the  ultima  thule  of  inhabitable 
land  on  the  Atlantic  slope  of  the  United  States. 

u  Among  the  public  buildings  there  are  6  churches,  several  of  them 
imposing  brick  structures,  belonging  to  the  Episcopal,  Methodist, 


1080  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

Baptist,  Presbyterian,  and  Congregational  and  Catholic  societies  respec- 
tively ; .  2  free  and  several  select  schools.  It  is  connected  with  the 
East,  with  Central  City  and  Georgetown,  by  telegraph  lines,  and  is 
shortly  to  have  the  same  communication  with  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico. 

"  There  are  two  first-class  flouring  mills,  run  by  water,  capable  of 
making  several  hundred  sacks  of  flour  per  day ;  two  planing  mills, 
sash  and  door  factories,  gunsmiths'  and  jewelery  shops,  cabinet  manu- 
facturers, upholsterers,  etc. 

"There  are  3  daily  papers,  having  also  weekly  editions,  and  1 
weekly  paper ;  3  first-class  and  many  second-class  hotels ;  3  bridges 
spanning  the  Platte,  costly  and  permanent  structures,  and  2  over 
Cherry  Creek,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $16,000 ;  2  theatres,  2  public  halls, 
and  the  United  States  Branch  Mint  buildings. 

"  Six  lines  of  coaches  leave  every  day  for  the  termini  of  the  railroads 
for  Santa  Fe'  and  the  various  mining  towns  in  the  mountains.  The 
view  from  Denver  and  vicinity  is  grand.  Pike's  and  Long's  peaks, 
with  over  200  miles  of  the  Snowy  Range,  are  plainly  visible,  and 
seen  through  the  clear  mountain  air,  the  passing  clouds  shading  in 
rapid  succession  and  infinite  variety  their  seamed  and  broken  surfaces, 
present  a  panorama  which  beggars  description,  and  is  pronounced  by 
all  travellers  unequalled  elsewhere  in  the  world." 

This  description  was  written  in  1868.  Since  then  the  city  has  rapidly 
improved.  The  Pacific  Railway  connecting  it  with  the  Missouri 
River  has  been  completed,  and  several  other  roads  are  under  con- 
struction. In  1870,  the  population  was  8000.  The  trade  of  the 
city,  during  that  year,  amounted  to  $10,000,000,  and  its  manufac- 
tures to  $12000,000. 


DAKOTA. 

Area, 152,000  Square  Miles 

Population  in  1870, 14,181 

THE  Territory  of  Dakota  lies  between  43°  and  49°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  96°  25'  and  104°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  British  America,  on  the  east  by  Minnesota  and  Iowa,  on  the 
south  by  Nebraska  and  Colorado  Territory,  and  on  the  west  by  Mon- 
tana and  Wyoming  Territories.  It  is  about  400  miles  long,  from  north 
to  south,  and  nearly  as  broad. 

A  recent  Report  of  a  Committee  of  the  Legislature  of  Dakota, 
thus  speaks  of  the  Territory  : 

"  The  Territory  occupies  the  most  elevated  section  of  country  be- 
tween the  Arctic  Ocean  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  forming,  to  a  great 
extent,  the  water-shed  of  the  two  great  basins  of  North  America — the 
Missouri  and  the  Mississippi  rivers,  and  the  tributaries  of  Hudson 
Bay.  Thus  within  the  limits  of  Dakota  are  found  the  sources  of 
rivers  running  diametrically  opposite;  those  flowing  northward  reach 
a  region  of  eternal  ice,  while  those  flowing  southward  pass  from  the 
haunts  of  the  grizzly  bear  and  the  region  of  wild  rice  through  the 
cotton-fields  and  the  sugar  plantations  of  the  Southerner,  until  their 
waters  are  mingled  with  the  blue  waves  of  the  Gulf. 

"  The  general  surface  of  the  country  east  and  north  of  the  Missouri 
is  a  beautiful,  rich,  undulating  prairie,  free  from  marsh,  swamp,  or 
slough ;  traversed  by  many  streams  and  dotted  over  with  innumerable 
lakes  of  various  sizes,  whose  wooded  margins,  and  rocky  shores,  and 
gravelly  bottoms  afford  the  settler  the  purest  water,  and  give  to  the 
scenery  of  the  Territory  much  of  its  interest  and  fascination.  "West 
of  the  Missouri  the  country  is  more  rolling,  and  generally  becomes 

1081 


J082  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

broken,  hilly,  and  finally  mountainous,  as  the  western  limits  are 
reached  and  terminated  by  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

"  The  mighty  Missouri  runs  through  the  very  heart  of  our  Terri- 
tory, and  gives  us  more  than  1000  miles  of  navigable  water-course, 
thus  giving  us  the  facility  of  cheap  water  transportation,  by  means  of 
which  we  can  bear  away  the  surplus  products  of  our  rich,  luxuriant 
lands  to  Southern  markets,  and  receive  in  exchange  the  trade  and 
commerce  of  all  climes  and  lands. 

"  We  have,  located  on  the  Missouri,  Big  Sioux,  Red  River  of  the 
North,  Vermilion,  Dakota,  and  Niobrara,  millions  and  millions  of 
acres  of  the  richest  and  most  productive  of  lands  to  be  found  anywhere 
within  the  bounds  of  the  National  Government. 

"  We  have,  combined,  the  pleasant,  salubrious  climate  of  Southern 
Minnesota,  and  the  fertility  of  Central  Illinois." 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Missouri,  the  Red  River  of  the  North, 
the  Big  Sioux,  Big  Cheyenne,  and  the  White  Earth.  Concerning 
these  streams,  the  Report  quoted  above  proceeds  as  follows :  "  The 
Missouri  River  extends  a  thousand  miles  through  the  Territory,  and 
is  navigable  for  steamboats  the  entire  distance,  and  hundreds  of  miles 
above.  The  country  along  the  river  is  of  unsurpassed  fertility.  The 
Big  Sioux  River  is  200  miles  long,  a  clear  running  stream  of  clear 
water,  and  cannot  be  surpassed  for  fertility  of  soil  and  the  variety  and 
luxuriance  of  its  vegetation.  The  bottom  lands  on  this  stream  are 
from  a  half  to  three  miles  wide,  and  bear  an  enormous  growth  of  blue- 
joint  grass,  which  makes  hay  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  Big 
Cheyenne  is  a  most  important  river,  and  has  its  extreme  source  west 
of  the  Black  Hills,  which  its  two  main  branches  enclose.  These  forks 
are  supplied  by  numerous  streams  from  the  mountains,  and  they  unite 
in  about  longitude  102°  20',  the  river  flowing  into  the  Missouri  in 
latitude  44°  48'.  In  its  lower  course  there  is  fertile  land  on  its  banks, 
and  there  are  considerable  areas  in  and  around  the  Black  Hills.  The 
Cheyenne  River  can  be  rafted,  and  the  stream  that  comes  from  the 
hills  could  be  used  to  drive  the  logs  down  the  river,  and  thus  a  way 
is  opened  to  this  fine  supply  of  timber.  White  Earth  River  has 
generally  an  open  well-wooded  valley,  with  fine  soil  and  luxuriant 
grass.  Any  one  who  travels  in  Nebraska  will  always  feel  rejoiced 
when  he  reaches  the  banks  of  this  beautiful  stream.  It  is  much 
resorted  to  by  the  Brules.  It  has  numerous  branches,  the  largest  of 
which  is  called  the  South  Fork.  The  pine  on  White  River  and 
its  tributaries  is  nearly  equal  in  extent  to  that  on  the  Niobrara.  This 


DAKOTA.  1083 

stream  has  been  used  by  traders  to  boat  down  their  furs.  I  believe 
it  can  also  be  used  to  raft  down  the  pine  timber  on  its  banks 
and  branches.  Lieutenant  Warren  speaks  very  favorably  of  the 
Niobrara  River,  which  is  partly  in  our  Territory,  that  there  is  con- 
siderable pine  timber  on  its  banks  and  branches,  and  much  good  land 
and  excellent  water.  The  Red  River  of  the  North,  rises  in  Lake 
Travers,  flows  north  380  miles  to  the  British  possessions,  and  is  a 
navigable  stream  its  entire  distance,  well-wooded,  and  a  soil  unsur- 
passed in  fertility.  There  are  a  number  of  other  small  streams,  some 
of  which  have  abundance  of  timber,  and  a  good  soil,  and  clear  running 
water.  There  are  quite  a  number  of  lakes  in  East  Dakota  remark- 
able for  their  beauty,  and  with  their  sylvan  associations  form  the 
prominent  charm  of  its  rural  landscape.  There  is  an  abundance  of 
timber  on  some  of  these  lakes  surrounded  with  a  good  soil,  water,  and 
plenty  of  fish  in  the  waters  of  the  same.  All  the  streams  of  Dakota 
abound  in  delicious  fish  of  many  varieties. 

"  The  prevailing  soil  of  Dakota  is  a  dark,  calcareous,  sandy  loam, 
containing  a  various  intermixture  of  clay,  abounding  in  mineral  salts, 
and  an  organic  ingredient  derived  from  the  accumulation  of  decomposed 
vegetable  matter,  for  long  ages  of  growth  and  decay.  The  earthy 
materials  of  our  soil  are  minutely  pulverized,  and  the  soil  is  every- 
where light,  mellow,  and  spongy;  while  its  sandy  predominance  makes 
our  soil  very  early.  The  upland  soil  of  East  Dakota  cannot  be  sur- 
passed for  fertility  and  the  variety  and  luxuriance  of  its  vegetation. 

"Your  committee  have  been  unable  to  get  any  accurate  informa- 
tion in  relation  to  the  amount  of  the  crops  per  acre,  but  from  their 
own  personal  observation,  they  are  of  the  opinion  that  no  State  or 
Territory  surpasses  Dakota  in  the  yield  of  their  crops  per  acre,  and 
they  are  of  the  opinion  the  average  yield  of  wheat  per  acre  is  25 
bushels ;  oats,  45 ;  corn,  between  50  and  60 ;  potatoes,  225.  All 
vines  and  garden  vegetables  yield  bountifully.  But  for  raising  wheat, 
Dakota,  we  believe,  is  not  equalled  by  any  State  or  Territory  in  the 
Union.  Our  dry,  pure  atmosphere  is  what  is  required  for  the  perfec- 
tion of  this  grain;  the  best  wheat  grown  in  the  world  is  the  wheat 
grown  on  the  Red  River,  within  the  limits  of  Dakota.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  that  section  claim  60  bushels  as  an  average  yield  per  acre,  and 
the  wheat  weighs  from  65  to  70  pounds  per  bushel.  Every  one  that 
has  ever  seen  any  of  the  Red  River  wheat  pronounced  it  the  finest 
they  ever  saw.  And  we  are  of  the  opinion  that  a  large  portion  of  our 
Territory  will  yield  equally  as  well ;  some  farmers  have  told  your 


1084  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

committee  of  a  yield  of  104  bushels  of  potatoes  from  one  and  one- 
fourth  bushels  of  seed,  and  corn  at  100  bushels  per  acre. 

"Dakota  is  the  finest  field  in  the  world  for  stock-growing.  It 
stands  prominent  above  all  other  countries  as  the  best  for  the  produc- 
tion of  grass.  '  The  grasses/  says  Farrey,  i  are  proverbially  in  perfec- 
tion only  in  northern  and  cold  regions.  It  is  in  the  north  alone  that 
we  raise  animals  from  meadows,  and  are  enabled  to  keep  them  fat  and 
in  good  condition  without  grain.'  In  none  of  the  prairie  districts  of 
North  America  are  the  native  grasses  so  abundant  and  nutritious  as 
on  the  plains  and  in  the  valleys  of  Dakota.  This  is  sufficiently 
proved  by  the  countless  herds  of  buffalo  that  pasture  throughout  the 
year,  upon  its  plains,  even  north  of  the  49th  parallel  of  latitude;  a 
fact  which  suggests  an  equivalent  capacity  for  the  herding  of  domestic 
cattle.  Horses  and  cattle  roam  during  summer  and  winter  over  the 
prairies  and  through  the  woods,  and  keep  fat  without  housing  or  hay. 
The  wild  grasses  of  Dakota  are  of  many  varieties.  The  blue-joint  of 
the  valleys  makes  the  best  of  hay,  and  generally  yields  about  three 
tons  per  acre.  The  gramma  or  buffalo  grass  of  the  upland  prairies  is 
so  nutritious  that  horses  will  work  all  the  time  they  are  fed  on 
it,  without  any  grain,  and  keep  fat.  All  the  wild  grasses  of  Dakota 
are  more  nutritious  than  any  of  the  tame  grasses ;  cattle  become  fatter 
by  pasturing  on  it.  When  cut  it  shrinks  much  less  in  curing  for  hay. 
It  seldom  heats.  There  is  no  dust  in  the  hay.  Horses  that  eat  it 
never  have  the  heaves.  The  hay  in  appearance  is  green,  and  it  smells 
much  sweeter  than  tame  hay.  On  the  whole,  it  is  superior  either  for 
pasturage  or  hay  for  horses,  cattle,  or  sheep.  Owing  to  the  healthi- 
ness and  the  dryness  of  the  climate  of  Dakota,  sheep  must  do 
extremely  well  in  Dakota.  WQ  have  no  cold  sleet-storms  here,  that 
are  so  fatal  to  sheep  in  many  countries.  The  Indians  have  always 
kept  thousands  of  horses  in  this  country,  but  never  feed  them  hay  in 
winter." 

Among  the  animals  found  in  and  native  to  the  Territory  are  the 
buffalo  or  bison,  the  elk,  antelope,  deer,  grizzly  bear,  black  bear,  wolf, 
raccoon,  and  muskrat.  , 

It  is  believed  that  the  Territory  is  very  rich  in  minerals.  Valua- 
ble deposits  of  gold,  silver,  iron,  and  copper  have  been  discovered. 
Coal  also  exists  in  considerable  quantities,  and  the  salt  lakes  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  Territory  furnish  an  abundant  supply  of  salt. 

There  are  as  yet  no  railways  in  the  Territory,  but  several  are  in 
construction  from  Minnesota  and  Iowa.  The  principal  route  is  the 


DAKOTA.  1085 

Northern  Pacific  Railway,  now  in  process  of  construction  from  the 
head  of  Lake  Superior  westward.  It  will  cross  the  north-central  por- 
tion of  the  Territory,  from  east  to  west. 

There  is  a  system  of  public  schools  in  operation.  It  is  as  yet  in  its 
infancy,  but  is  well  organized,  and  has  thrown  open  about  25  free 
schools  to  the  children  of  the  Territory.  The  Episcopal  Church  has  a 
seminary  at  Yancton,  and  there  are  several  private  schools  in  the 
southern  portion. 

The  Government  is  similar  to  that  of  the  other  Territories. 

The  Territory  of  Dakota  was  organized  by  Congress  in  March, 
1861.  In  1868,  a  large  part  of  its  original  limits  was  taken  from  it 
to  organize  the  Territory  of  Wyoming. 

YANCTON,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mis- 
souri River,  about  7  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Dakota  or  James 
River,  and  in  the  southeastern  corner  of  the  Territory.  It  is  60  miles 
northwest  of  Sioux  City,  in  Iowa,  the  present  terminus  of  the  Chicago 
and  Northwestern  Railway.  It  contains  about  1500  inhabitants,  2 
churches,  2  schools,  1  seminary  (conducted  by  the  Episcopal  Church), 
and  a  newspaper  office.  It  has  steamboat  communication  with  the 
towns  on  the  Missouri  River,  and  a  railway  is  in  progress  of  construc- 
tion from  Sioux  City  to  Yancton. 


IDA  HO. 

Area, 96,000  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1870, 14,998 

THE  Territory  of  Idaho  lies  between  42°  and  49°  N.  latitude,  and 
110°  and  117°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  British 
America,  on  the  east  by  Montana  and  Wyoming  Territories,  on  the 
south  by  Utah  Territory  and  Nevada,  and  on  the  west  by  Oregon  and 
Washington  Territory.  Its  greatest  length,  from  north  to  south,  is 
480  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  east  to  west,  is  about  340 
miles.  The  widest  portion  is  below  the  southern  boundary  of  Mon- 
tana. North  of  that  the  Territory  varies  in  width  from  40  to  60 
miles. 

The  surface  is  mountainous.  The  Kocky  Mountains  extend  for  250 
miles  along  the  eastern  and  northeastern  borders,  and  a  curvilinear 
range,  called  the  Bitter  Root  Mountains,  continues  the  eastern  border 
from  the  Rocky  Mountain  range  to  the  northern  part  of  the  Ter- 
ritory. Fremont's  Peak  is  the  highest  point  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
range  in  the  United  States,  and  has  an  altitude  of  13,570  feet.  It  lies 
on  the  border  between  Idaho  and  Dakota.  There  are  several  minor 
ranges  in  the  various  portions  of  the  Territory.  In  the  southeastern 
part  are  six  high  peaks,  called  the  Three  Buttes,  and  the  Three 
Tetons.  Much  of  the  mountain  scenery  is  grand  and  impressive — that 
in  the  vicinity  of  Salmon  River  is  especially  fine. 

The  principal  rivers  are  Clark's  River,  the  Lewis  or  Snake,  both 
branches  of  the  Columbia,  the  Salmon,  the  Clearwater,  the  Boise, 
the  Green,  the  Palouse,  the  Malade,  the  Payette,  and  the  Lapwai. 
"The  Snake  River  and  its  branches  drain  the  whole  Territory,  except 
a  portion,  of  about  120  miles  long  and  45  wide,  in  the  extreme 
1086 


IDAHO.  1087 


A  CANON  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

^ 

northern  part,  which  is  drained  by  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia  and 
its  branches,  and  an  irregularly-shaped  portion  in  the  southeastern 
corner,  which  is  drained  by  Green  and  Bear  rivers.  *  Bear  River  falls 
into  Salt  Lake,  and  Green  River  empties  into  the  Colorado.  This 
portion  of  the  Territory  1ms  some  farming  and  a  large  amount  of  good 
grazing  lands,  and  is  very  scantily  supplied  with  wood.  No  mines 
have  been  discovered  in  it.  The  principal  branches  of  the  Snake 
River  in  Idaho  are  the  Clearwater,  Salmon,  Payette,  Boise,  and  many 
small  rivers  and  creeks,  which,  uniting,  form  a  large  river,  with  many 
falls  and  rapids  and  a  current  of  great  swiftness." 

There  are  three  lakes  of  considerable  size  in  Idaho,  the  Coeur 
d'Aline,  about  24  miles  long  and  two  or  three  wide,  very  irregular  in 
form ;  the  Pen  d'Oreille,  a  crescent-shaped  lake,  about  30  miles  long 
and  5  broad  ;  and  the  Boatman,  about  the  same  length  and  6  miles 
wide.  The  Pen  d'Oreille  and  Clark's  Fork  are  navigable  for  steamers 
for  80  miles. 

The  Surveyor-General  of  Idaho,  in  his  Report  for  1867,  thus 
speaks  of  the  Territory: 

"  The  altitude  of  Idaho  Territory,  with  its  mountains  and  table- 
lands, renders  the  winters  cold  compared  with  the  country  lying  west, 
but  dry  and  healthy.  The  Boise,  Payette,  and  Weiser  valleys  are 
sheltered  and  mild.  The  soil  of  the  valleys  is  highly  favorable  to  the 
growth  of  cereals  and  vegetation.  Extensive  crops  are  raised  whcro 


1088  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

irrigation  is  practicable.  The  alkali  land,  mostly  covered  with  sage- 
brush, has  proved  well  adapted  to  the  raising  of  grain.  The'  soil, 
reported  second-rate,  being  decomposed  granite,  yields  the  heaviest 
crops.  The  extensive  table-lands  are  covered  with  wild  grasses  and 
wild  rye,  and  are  valuable  for  grazing.  The  mountains  are  clothed 
with  pine  and  fir  timber.  The  valleys  are  destitute  of  timber  except 
a  species  of  cottonwood  growing  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers.  The 
valleys  are  depending  upon  the  mountains  at  a  heavy  cost  for  lumber 
and  fuel. 

"  Gold  is  found  on  the  head-waters  of  all  the  rivers.  Rich  placer 
mines  have  been  profitably  worked  for  years  on  the  Clearwater  and 
Salmon  rivers.  Extensive  placer  and  quartz  mines  are  found  on  the 
Boise  River  and  its  branches,  embracing  several  districts.  Many 
rich  quartz  lodes  of  gold  and  silver  have  been  discovered  and  partially 
worked ;  their  future  development  depending  upon  the  reduced  cost 
of  transportation  and  other  expenses,  which  thus  far  have  retarded  the 
growth  and  prosperity  of  the  country.  The  quartz  and  placer  mines 
of  Owyhee  county,  situated  in  the  southwest  part  of  the  Territory, 
have  proved  to  be  eminently  rich  so  far  as  developed.  Some  of  the 
ledges  are  being  worked  with  valuable  machinery,  repaying  the  capital 
invested,  though  at  an  enormous  outlay.  The  quantity  and  quality 
of  the  ore  already  abstracted  are  favorable*indications  of  their  future 
wealth.  Several  thousands  of  gold  and  silver  quartz  claims  have  been 
taken  up  and  recorded,  more  or  less  prospected,  but  the  heavy  ex- 
penses under  which  the  miners  of  this  Territory  have  labored,  has, 
in  general,  prevented  their  successful  development.  The  near  ap- 
proach of  the  Pacific  Railroad  to  the  southern  borders  of  the  Territory 
will  materially  reduce  the  cost  of  working  the  mines,  when  the 
resources  of  the  country  will  be  more  favorably  brought  into  notice." 

There  are  no  railways  in  the  Territory.  The  Northern  Pacific 
Railway  will  cross  Idaho  from  east  to  west  when  completed.  The 
Lewis  or  Snake  Fork  of  the  Columbia  River  is  navigable  to  Lewiston, 
on  the  western  border,  just  above  the  northern  boundary  of  Oregon. 
This  river  furnishes  the  usual  and  most  convenient  route  for  persons 
and  goods  entering  Idaho. 

The  public  school  system  has  been  in  operation  for  several  years. 
There  are  about  20  schools  in  the  Territory.  These  are  limited  to  8 
or  9  counties. 

The  Government  is  similar  to  that  of  the  other  Territories.  The 
Territorial  prison  is  situated  at  Boise  City.  It  does  not  pay  expenses. 


IDAHO.  1089 

The  Territory  of  Idaho  was  organized  by  Congress  in  March,  1863, 
out  of  portions  of  Oregon,  Washington,  Nebraska,  and  Utah  Territo- 
ries. In  May,  1864,  the  Territory  of  Montana  was  formed  out  of  the 
eastern  portion.  The  discovery  of  gold  was  the  immediate  cause 'of  the 
settlement  of  the  Territory.  The  rich  deposits  of  the  precious  metal 
drew  large  numbers  of  settlers  from  California,  Oregon,  and  the 
eastern  settlements.  In  a  short  time  the  population  of  Idaho  num- 
bered 20,000.  This  soon  fell  off,  however,  as  the  mining  excitement 
led  the  more  adventurous  portion  to  other  places.  At  present  the 
population  consists  largely  of  settlers,  who  have  come  into  the  Terri- 
tory with  the  intention  of  remaining  there.  The  Territory  is  growing 
rapidly,  and  its  permanent  prosperity  seems  now  placed  on  an  assured 
basis. 

BOISE  CITY,  or  BOISE  CITY,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Boise  River,  at  the  head  of  the  fertile  valley  of  the  same 
name,  about  393  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City,  in  Utah.  It  has  a  beau- 
tiful location,  is  well  laid  out,  and  is  one  of  the  best  built  of  the 
frontier  towns.  Nearly  all  the  travellers  and  supplies  for  the  Boise 
Basin  pass  through  it;  hence  it  is  a  great  staging  centre.  It  is  the 
principal  commercial  town  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Territory, 
being  situated  between  the  Owyhee  and  Boise  Mines.  It  contains 
about  2500  or  3000  inhabitants,  several  churches  and  schools,  and  3 
newspaper  offices. 

Thirty  miles  to  the  northeast  of  Boise  City  is  the  Boise  Basin,  a 
rich  valley,  about  18  miles  long  by  6  miles  broad.  It  contains  a 
number  of  towns  and  mining  districts,  and  is  the  most  populous  part 
of  the  Territory.  Idaho  City  is  the  largest  town  in  this  valley.  It 
lies  in  the  midst  of  the  rich  placer  mines  of  the  basin.  It  is  the 
largest  town  in  Idaho,  and  contains  about  4000  inhabitants.  In  May, 
1865,  it  was  almost  wholly  destroyed  by  fire,  but  has  since  been  re- 
built. Lewiston,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Lewis  Fork  of  the 
Columbia,  353  miles  east  of  Portland,  Oregon,  contains  2000  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  growing  rapidly.  Its  position  makes  it  one  of  the  most 
important  places  in  Idaho.  < 

69 


THE    INDIAN    TERRITORY. 

Area, ;     .    .    .    .    68,991  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1870, about  17,000. 

THE  Indian  Territory  consists  of  a  tract  of  country  set  apart  by 
the  United  States  as  a  permanent  home  for  the  Indian  tribes  removed 
thither  from  east  of  the  Mississippi  as  well  as  those  native  to  the 
Territory.  It  lies  between  33°  30'  and  37°  N.  latitude ;  and  between 
94°  30'  and  103°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Kansas,  on  the  east  by  Missouri  and  Arkansas,  on  the  south  by  Texas, 
and  on  the  west  by  Texas  and  New  Mexico. 

The  country  slopes  gently  from  the  western  border,  which  lies  near 
the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  towards  the  eastern  border.  With 
the  exception  of  a  large  sandy  and  barren  tract  in  the  northeast  por- 
tion, called  the  Great  American  Desert,  the  surface  of  the  Territory 
consists  of  undulating  plains  of  great  extent.  The  Ozark  or  Washita 
Mountains  enter  the  eastern  portion  from  Arkansas. 

The  Territory  is  drained  by  the  Arkansas  and  Red  rivers  and  their 
tributaries.  The  Arkansas  and  Red  are  navigable  for  steamers  for  a 
part  of  their  course,  but  the  tributaries  are  too  shallow  for  navigation. 

The  greater  part  of  the  Territory  is  still  in  a  wild  state,  and 
abounds  in  game.  Vast  herds  of  buffaloes  and  wild  horses  roam  over 
its  prairies.  The  antelope,  deer,  prairie  dog,  wild  turkeys,  and  grouse 
are  found. 

The  United  States  Government  has  military  stations  at  Fort  Gib- 
son, on  the  Arkansas,  Fort  Townson,  on  the  Red,  and  Fort  Wasfcita, 
on  the  Red  River,  but  the  Federal  Government  exercises  no  authority 
over  the  Indians  except  for  the  punishment  of  certain  crimes  com- 
mitted by  them  against  the  whites.  For  this  purpose,  the  Indian 
1090 


INDIAN   TERRITORY.  1091 

Territory  is  annexed  to  the  Judicial  Districts  of  the  States  of  Missouri 
and  Arkansas,  that  the  offending  Indians  may  be  brought  to  trial 
before  the  United  States  Circuit  and  District  Courts  when  sitting  in 
those  districts.  The  Indians  are  allowed  to  live  under  their  own 
laws,  and  to  follow  their  own  customs  and  modes  of  life.  Each  tribe 
has  its  lands  assigned  and  secured  to  it  by  the  United  States.  Several 
efforts  have  been  made  to  organize  the  Territory.  In  the  latter  part 
of  1870,  a  general  council  of  the  tribes  was  held  at  Ockmulgee,  at 
which  a  Constitution  for  the  Territory,  similar  in  its  provisions  and 
requirements  to  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  was  adopted  by 
an  almost  unanimous  vote,  subject  to  ratification  by  the  people.  This 
Constitution  provides  for  a  government  and  political  system  similar 
to  our  own,  dnd  confines  its  privileges  to  the  Indian  tribes  of  the 
Territory.  In  the  new  system  the  various  Ind  ian  nations  correspond 
with  the  States  of  our  own  Confederation. 

The  principal  tribes  now  occupying  the  Territory  are  the  Choctaws, 
Chickasaws,  Creeks,  Scminoles,  Cherokees,  and  Osages.  Some  of 
these  tribes — the  Cherokees  being  the  most  improved — have  made 
great  advances  in  civilization,  and  have  their  towns,  farms,  schools, 
and  churches,  whilst  others  are  fast  falling  into  vagrancy.  The 
United  States  Government  holds  in  trust  for  these  Indians  the  sum 
of  $1,600,000,  yielding  an  annual  income  of  over  $100,000.  The 
tribes  have  ceded  nearly  40,000,000  acres  of  their  lands  to  the  United 
States,  and  the  organization  of  the  Territory  would  open  these  to  set- 
tlement. The  chiefs  oppose  the  movement. 


MONTANA. 

Area, 143,766  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1870, 20,594 

THE  Territory  of  Montana,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  portion 
in  the  southwest,  lies  between  45°  and  49°  N.  latitude,  and  104°  and 
116°  W.  longitude.  Its  extreme  length,  from  east  to  west,  is  about 
.560  miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  about  320 
miles.  This  is  at  the  projection  in  the  southeast  portion.  In  other 
parts  its  average  breadth  is  about  275  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  British  America,  on  the  east  by  Dakota  Territory,  on  the 
south  by  Wyoming  and  Idaho  Territories,  and  on  the  west  by  Idaho. 

"  The  surface  is  generally  mountainous.  The  great  Rocky  Moun- 
tain range  extends  across  the  Territory.  Commencing  at  the  northern 
boundary  this  range  extends  for  a  distance  of  about- 200  miles  in  a 
south-southeast  direction,  and  then  describes  a  great  curve  towards  the 
west  until  it  touches  the  border  of  Idaho.  From  this  point  it 
extends  along  the  southwestern  boundary  of  Montana  for  a  distance 
of  nearly  200  miles.  The  Bitter  Root  Mountains  also  form  a  part  of 
the  western  boundary.  Minor  chains  of  mountains  occur  in  different 
parts  of  the -Territory.  The  long  valley  of  the  Yellow  Stone  River, 
in  the  eastern  part  of  Montana,  is  reported  to  be  fertile,  and  to  be  bor- 
dered on  one  or  two  sides  by  grand  walls  of  mountain.  The  valleys 
of  the  extensive  region,  between  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Missouri, 
are  said  to  be  liberally  supplied  with  running  water  and  forest  trees, 
among  which  the  pine  and  cedar  are  to  be  found.  The  pine,  fir,  and 
cedar  also  abound  on  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  Bitter  Root  Moun- 
tains. 'The  country  bordering  on  the  Jefferson  Fork,  the  Gal  latin 
Fork,  and  the  Madison  Fork  of  the  Missouri/  says  Captain  Mullan, 
1092 


MONTANA.  1093 

*  is  among  the  most  beautiful  to  be  found  west  of  the  Mississippi.  The 
country  is  a  gently  undulating  prairie,  dotted  here  and  there  with 
clumps  of  timber.  All  the  streams  are  beautifully  fringed  with  forest 
growth,  the  soil  is  rich,  climate  mild  and  invigorating,  and  all  the 
elements  for  happy  homes  are  here  to  be  found.' ' 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Missouri,  the  Yellowstone,  and  Clark's 
Fork  of  the  Columbia  River.  The  Missouri  rises  near  the  southwestern 
corner  of  the  Territory,  and  pursues  a  circuitous  course  throughout  its 
whole  extent  to  the  eastern  border,  where  it  passes  into  Dakota. 
About  500  miles  from  the  source  of  the  river,  and  in  the  western  part 
of  the  central  portion  of  the  Territory,  are  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Mis- 
souri, which  rank  next  to  those  of  Niagara  in  grandeur.  They  are 
described  in  the  earlier  pages  of  this  work. 

The  climate  is  healthful,  and,  with  an  atmosphere  devoid  of 
humidity,  is  admirably  calculated  for  those  afflicted  with  diseases  of 
the  lungs,  or  any  manner  of  rheumatic  affections.  The  purity  of  the 
water,  and  the  entire  absence  of  all  malarious  influences,  also  render  it 
well  adapted  to  the  invalid  suffering  from  any  causes  whatsoever. 

Professor  G.  C.  Swallow,  in  1867,  thus  summed  up  the  results 
of  his  investigations  of  the  agricultural  and  mineral  resources  of 
Montana : 

"  It  certainly  is  one  of  the  finest  stock  countries  on  the  Continent. 
All  the  more  important  domestic  animals  and  fowls  do  remarkably 
well;  horses,  mules,  and  neat  cattle  are  more  hardy,  and  keep  in 
better  condition  on  the  native  grasses  than  they  do  in  the  States  on 
hay  and  grain.  As  a  general  rule  they  winter  well  on  the  grass  of 
the  valleys  and  foot-hills  without  hay  or  grain.  The  valleys  furnish 
a  large  area  of  natural  meadows,  whose  products  are  equal  to  those  of 
the  cultivated  meadows  of  the  Middle  States.  Beef  fattened  on  the 
native  pastures  is  equal  to  the  best  produced  in  the  country. 

"  The  small  grains,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  and  oats,  produce  as  large 
an  average  yield  as  in  the  most  favored  grain-producing  States ;  50 
and  60  bushels  to  the  acre  are  not  uncommon  yields  for  Montana.  Of 
the  native  fruits  we  have  strawberries,  raspberries,  blueberries,  service- 
berries,  choke-cherries,  haws,  currants,  and  gooseberries,  and  there  is 
every  reason  to  believe  that  apples,  pears,  cherries,  plums,  quinces, 
blackberries,  raspberries,  strawberries,  currants,  and  gooseberries  can 
be  cultivated  in  our  broad  valleys  as  successfully  as  in  any  of  the 
mother  States. 

"  All  the  more  important  root  crops,  such  as  potatoes,  ruta-bagas, 


1094  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

beets,  carrots,  turnips,  radishes,  and  onions,  and  all  the  more  import- 
ant garden  vegetables,  are  cultivated  with  great  success. 

"  Timber  is  abundant  on  the  mountain  slopes  and  in  some  of  the 
valleys.  Five  varieties  of  pine,  two  of  fir,  one  of  spruce,  two  of  cedar, 
grow  on  the  mountains  and  in  the  mountain  valleys  and  canons; 
balsams,  poplars,  aspens,  alders,  and  willows  on  the  streams.  The 
pines,  firs,  spruce,  and  cedars  furnish  an  abundance  of  good  timber 
for  building,  mining,  and  farming  purposes. 

"  The  purest  waters  abound  everywhere,  in  cool  springs,  mountain 
streams,  meadow  brooks,  and  clear,  rapid  rivers.  Hot  and  mineral 
springs  also  occur.  Beautiful  lakes,  and  magnificent  waterfalls  and 
cascades  are  numerous  in  the  mountains. 

"  Veins  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  and  iron  are  found  in  great 
numbers*  in  nearly  all  the  mountainous  portions  of  the  Territory.  So 
far  as  discovered,  they  usually  come  to  the  surface  on  the  foot-hills 
anc]  sides  of  the  valleys  and  canons.  A  large  portion  of  these  lodes 
are  true  veins,  cutting  through  granite,  syenite,  porphyry,  trap,  gneiss, 
mica  slate,  hornblende  slate,  talcose  slate,  argillaceous  slates,  sand- 
stone, and  limestone.  These  veins  vary  in  thickness,  from  a  few 
inches  to  50  or  60  feet.  The  gangue  or  vein  rock,  called  quartz  by 
the  miners  here,  is  very  variable  in  character.  In  the  gold-bearing 
veins  it  is  usually  a  whitish  quartz,  more  or  less  ferruginous — often 
nearly  all  iron.  In  some  veins  it  resembles  a  stratified  quartzite;  in 
others  it  is  syem'tic ;  pyrites,  hornblende,  calc-spar,  arsenic,  antimony, 
copper  and  tellurium,  are  found  in  these  veins.  In  the  silver  veins 
the  iron,  so  abundant  in  the  gold  veins,  is  usually  replaced  by  oxide  of 
manganese.  This  mineral  is  sometimes  so  abundant  as  to  constitute 
the  larger  portion  of  the  gangue.  The  gangue  in  many  of  the  copper 
mines  is  usually  quartz,  heavy  spar,  talc-spar,  and  brown  spar,  more 
or  less  commingled. 

"  Many  thousand  lodes  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper  have  already 
been  discovered  and  recorded,  and  a  large  number  of  them  somewhat 
developed.  It  is  true,  as  well  as  in  all  other  mining  regions,  that  a 
large  part  of  the  lodes  discovered  cannot  be  worked  with  profit  by  the 
method  usually  adopted i*n  new  mining  countries;  but  many  of  those 
which  cannot  now  be  profitably  worked  will  become  valuable  when 
experience  has  shown  the  best  methods,  and  when  labor  and  materials 
can  be  had  at  ordinary  prices.  But  there  is  a  very  large  number  of 
large  and  rich  lodes,  which  will  yield  large  profits  even  at  the  present 
prices  of  labor  and  material ;  and  there  is  quite  a  number  of  lodes  of 


MONTANA. 


1095 


A  FRONTIER   CITY. 


both  gold  and  silver  already  discovered  which  will  rank  among  the 
largest  and  richest  in  the  annals  of  mining. 

"  This,  like  all  new  mining  districts,  presents  serious  obstacles  and 
difficulties  in  the  way  of  immediate  success.  These  are  obvious  to  all 
experienced  men,  and  are  expected  in  all  such  undertakings.  But  all 
this  and  other  hindrances  to  the  full  success  of  our  quartz-mining 
operations  will  soon  be  removed.  They  are  evils  which  will  naturally 
cure  themselves.  Better  mills  are  now  going  into  operation,  better 
lodes  are  bought  in  larger  quantities,  good  men  are  employed  to 
manage,  and  owners  of  quartz  property  are  offering  better  facilities  for 
developing  their  lodes ;  capital  is  turned  toward  this  source  of  wealth, 
and  our  best  financiers  are  operating  in  Montana  mining  property. 

"The  placer  mines,  though  very  extensive,  and  in  some  instances 
vastly  rich,  have  not  yielded  so  much  as  in  former  years.  But  many 
new  and  rich  discoveries  have  been  made,  and  large  sums  of^money 
spent  in  conducting  water  to  favorite  localities,  and  we  have  every 
reason  to  believe  that  the  placers  will  yield  as  many  millions  as  in 
former  years  to  those  hardy  toilers  who  have  labored  so  faithfully  and 
successfully  in  securing  this  '  golden  harvest.' 

"  In  conclusion,  it  may  be  stated  with  safety  that  Montana  has  the 
agricultural  capacity  for  sustaining  any  population  which  her  mines* 


1096  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

salubrious  climate,  and  glorious  scenery  may  attract  to  her  fair  land. 
Her  mines  are  more  numerous  and  more  diffused  than  any  other 
equal  area  on  the  globe,  and  they  will  prove  as  rich  and  yield  as  large 
profits  as  the  most  productive  in  this  or  any  other  country." 

The  bison  or  buffalo,  the  grizzly  bear,  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep, 
and  the  antelope  are  found  in  the  Territory. 

The  public  school  system  promises  to  be  a  great  advantage  to  tho 
Territory.  It  is  being  gradually  extended  over  the  inhabited  portions 
of  the  Territory. 

The  Government  is  similar  to  that  of  the  other  Territories.  The 
laws  exempt  homesteads  worth  $3000,  farming  tools,  and  seeds  to 
farmers,  and  are  equally  liberal  to  other  occupations. 

The  Territory  was  organized  out  of  the  eastern  portion  of  Idaho,  in 
May,  1864. 

VIRGINIA  CITY,  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  is  situated  on 
Alder  Creek,  a  tributary  of  Jefferson's  Fork  of  the  Missouri.  It  is 
tolerably  well  built  for  a  frontier  city,. and  contained  a  population  of 
867,  in  1870.  It  contains  a  school,  several  churches,  a  newspaper 
office,  and  a  theatre.  Stages  connect  it  with  the  principal  towns  of 
the  Territory. 

HELENA,  the  largest  city  of  Montana,  is  situated  in  the  midst  of 
the  rich  placer  mines  of  Southwestern  Montana.  It  is  18  miles  west 
of  the  Missouri  River,  and  120  miles  north  of  Virginia  City.  It 
contains  several  banks,  a  number  of  stores,  several  schools  and 
churches,  and  2  newspaper  offices.  In  1870,  the  population  was  3713. 


NEW    MEXICO. 

Area, 121,201  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1870, 91,874 

THE  Territory  of  New  Mexico  lies  between  31°  20'  and  37°  N. 
latitude,  and  between  103°  and  109°  W.  longitude.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  north  by  Colorado;  on  the  -east  by  Texas  and  the  Indian  Terri- 
tory, on  the  south  by  Texas  and  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  and  on  the 
west  by  Arizona  Territory.  Its  extreme  length,  from  north  to  south, 
is  about  400  miles,  and  its  breadth,  from  east  to  west,  about  350  miles. 

The  greater  part  of  the  Territory  consists  of  high  table  lands  broken 
by  several  ranges  of  mountains.  The  Rocky  Mountains  pass  through 
the  ceutral  portion  from  north  to  south.  The  Sierra  Madre  range 
passes  through  the  western  portion,  and  the  southern  and  eastern 
parts  contain  several  minor  ranges,  which  diverge  from  the  main 
chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  pass  off  into  Texas. 

The  principal  river  of  New  Mexico  is  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte, 
which,  rising  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  Colorado,  flows  from  north 
to  south  across  the  Territory,  between  the  Rocky  and  Sierra  Madre 
Mountains,  draining  an  extensive  valley.  The  Pecos  River  rises 
in  the  northern  part  of  New  Mexico  and  flows  southward  into  Texas, 
draining  the  eastern  portion  of  the  Territory.  The  Gila  rises  on  the 
western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  and  flows  westward  into  Arizona. 
The  Puerco  is  the  principal  tributary  of  the  Rio  Grande.  It  rises  on 
the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra  Madre  and  flows  southward  into  the 
Rio  Grande,  which  it  joins  near  the  34th  parallel  of  north  latitude. 
It  is  200  miles  long,  and  lies  wholly  within  the  Territory.  The  Cana- 
dian River,  a  tributary  of  the  Arkansas,  rises  in  the  northeast  part  of 
the  Territory,  and  flows  southeast  into  Texas. 

1097 


1098  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

The  habitable  portion  of  the  Territory  is  the  Valley  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  Here  the  climate,  owing  to  the  great  elevation  of  the  valley, 
is  temperate  and  constant.  In  the  hotter  portions  of  the  day  the  mer- 
cury sometimes  reaches  100°,  but  the  nights  are  always  cool.  Some 
of  the  highest  mountains  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  Between 
July  and  October  there  are  heavy  falls  of  rain,  but  the  atmosphere  is 
in  spite  of  this  very  dry.  The  ground  is  parched  and  hard  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  year. 

In  consequence  of  this,  the  greater  portion  of  the  Territory  is  sterile. 
Except  in  a  few  regions  nothing  can  be  done  in  the  way  of  agriculture, 
and  in  almost  every  portion  artificial  irrigation  is  nesessary  to  produce 
the  simplest  crops.  Many  parts  of  the  Valley  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and 
the  valleys  of  some  of  the  other  streams  produce  good  crops  of  Indian 
corn,  wheat,  melons,  grapes,  apples,  peaches,  and  apricots.  The  In- 
dians on  the  Gil  a,  cultivate  cotton,  wheat,  corn,  melons,  and  vegetables 
by  means  of  irrigation.  Irrigation,  however,  cannot  always  be  de- 
pended on,  as  the  water  source  is  frequently  destroyed  by  the  evapo- 
ration of  the  streams.  The  valleys'  of  the  northeast  portion  of  the 
Territory  afford  excellent  pasturage,  and  the  table  lands,  though  unfit 
for  agricultural  purposes,  are  excellent  for  stock  raising.  They  pro- 
duce a  peculiar  grass,  which  the  dry  season  cures  instead  of  rendering 
it  worthless.  Cattle,  sheep,  mules,  and  horses  find  this  excellent 
winter  food.  The  Territory  will  probably  never  attain  even  a  res- 
pectable position  as  an  agricultural  region,  but  it  is  destined  to  become 
a  prominent  place  for  stock  raising. 

Only  a  small  portion  of  the  surface  is  wooded.  Such  hard  woods 
as  are  found  are  of  an  inferior  quality,  and  are  limited  in  quantity. 

Animals  are  not  as  prolific  here  as  in  the  other  Territories.  Those 
found  here  are  the  deer,  mountain  sheep,  wild  hog,  antelope,  cougar, 
ocelot,  lynx,  brown  bear,  black  bear,  grizzly  bear,  coyote,  wolf,  mar- 
mot, skunk,  weasel,  hare,  rabbit,  squirrel,  beaver,  and  elk.  Wild  tur- 
keys, geese,  ducks  and  swans,  are  found.  The  Territory  also  contains 
a  venomous  species  of  the  scorpion  and  lizard. 

It  is  probable  that  New  Mexico  will  owe  its  future  prosperity  to  its 
mines  more  than  to  any  other  source.  It  is  said  to  be  very  rich  in 
mineral  deposits,  especially  in  gold  and  silver,  though  very  little  has 
been  done  as  yet  towards  the  development  of  these  resources.  A  great 
drawback  to  mining  enterprises  is  the  hostility  of  the  Apachees,  who 
infest  a  large  part  of  the  Territory.  Iron  is  found  in  abundance ;  also 
gypsum ;  coal  is  found  in  limited  quantities,  and  there  are  salt  lakes 


NEW   MEXICO. 


1099 


SANTA   FK. 

in  the  northeast  portion.  The  salt,  crystallized  by  the  evaporation  of 
the  water  by  the  sun,  falls  to  the  bottom  of  the  lake,  where  it  exists 
in  a  crust  several  inches  thick.  It  is  thrown  directly  into  wagons, 
and  dried  by  the  sun.  At  first  it  contains  some  impurities,  which  give 
to  it  a  dark  color,  but  when  washed  it  becomes  snowy  white.  The 
supply  is  said  to  be  inexhaustible.  Lead  is  also  found,  but  it  is  too 
distant  from  the  States  to  repay  the  cost  of  mining  it. 

There  is  a  public  school  system  in  the  Territory,  but  it  does  not 
seem  productive  of  much  good.  In  1866,  out  of  a  population  of 
93,516,  there  were  57,233  persons  who  could  neither  read  nor  write, 
and  in  that  year  the  only  free  schools  open  in  the  Territory  were  those 
provided  by  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  and  taught  by  the  Sisters 
of  Charity.  The  Spanish  language  is  spoken  by  the  inhabitants.  It 
is  also  the  official  language.  The  proceedings  of  the  Legislature  are 
conducted  in  Spanish,  but  are  also  printed  in  English. 

The  Government  is  similar  to  that  of  the  other  Territories,  except 
that  in  New  Mexico  the  power  of  the  Government  is  but  slight.  The 
inhabitants  are  wild  and  lawless,  as  a  rule,  and  are  very  low  down 
in  the  scale  of  civilization.  The  condition  of  society  is  similar  to 
that  in  Mexico.  The  Roman  Catholic  religion  is  the  principal/aitL 

New  Mexico  was  settled  by  the  Spaniards  at  an  early  period.     It 


1100  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

constituted  a  province  of  Mexico  until  the  conquest  of  that  country  by 
the  forces  of  the  United  States,  when  it  passed  into  the  possession  of 
the  American  Republic.  In  1850,  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico 
was  organized,  and  for  this  purpose  portions  of  California  and  Texas 
were  added  to  the  original  Mexican  province.  In  1863,  the  western 
portion  was  organized  as  the  Territory  of  Arizona. 

SANTA  F£,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  the  Rio  Chicito,  or  Santa 
Pe*  River,  about  20  miles  from  its  confluence  with  the  Rio  Grande. 
It  is  the  seat  of  an  extensive  overland  trade  with  the  Missouri  River. 
It  is  wretchedly  built.  The  houses  are  constructed  of  adobe  and  are 
rarely  more  than  one  story  in  height.  The  inhabitants,  with  the 
exception  of  the  few  Americans  residing  or  sojourning  in  the  place, 
are  ignorant  and  degraded.  The  place  bears  an  evil  reputation  as  one 
of  the  most  reckless  and  miserable  towns  on  the  globe.  In  1870,  the 
population  was  4600. 


UTAH. 


Area,      .         .    . 
Population  in  1870, 


88,056  square  miles. 
86,786 


THE  Territory  of  Utah  lies  between  37°  and  42°  N.  latitude,  and 
between  109°  and  114°  W.  longitude.  Its  greatest  length,  from 
north  to  south,  is  345  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth,  from  east  to 
west,  about  270  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Wyoming  and 
Idaho  Territories,  on  the  east  by  Wyoming  and  Colorado,  on  the 
south  by  Arizona,  and  on  the  west  by  Nevada. 

"  The  Wasatch  range  of  mountains  divides  the  Territory  diagonally 
northeast  and  southwest  into  two  parts,  the  northwestern  being  much 
lager  than  that  lying  to  the  southward.  The  Wasatch  range  is  high 
and  rugged.  Its  lofty  summits,  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  pro- 
bably have  an  altitude  of  11,000  or  12,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  In  a  broad  and  elevated  range,  surrounded  by  countries  rich  in 
gold  and  silver,  we  should  expect  to  find  those  metals.  But,  so  far 
as  is  known,  no  range  of  mountains  on  the  western  coast  has  been 
found  rich  in  precious  metals  that  has  a  trend  to  the  northeast  and 
southwest,  and  it  may  be  considered  problematical  whether  any  mines 
of  those  metals  will  be  found  of  great  richness  in  the  Wasatch  Moun- 
tains. On  the  western  side  of  the  Territory  are  a  number  of  small 
ranges,  on  the  Goshoat  and  a  number  of  others,  that  contain  mines  of 
gold  and  silver. 

"  The  largest  river  is  the  Colorado,  one  of  the  longest  in  the  United 
States.  Of  its  capabilities  for  navigation,  comparatively  little  is 
known,  though,  so  far  as  explored,  the  reports  are  unfavorable.  Its 
principal  branches  are  the  Green,  Grand,  San  Juan,  and  Virgin 
rivers.  These  drain  the  southeastern  portion  of  the  Territory.  On. 

1101 


1102  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

the  north,  Goose  and  Holmes's  creeks  run  into  Snake  River,  but  all 
the  interior  streams  empty  into  lakes  that  have  no  outlet  to  the  sea. 
Bear  River  and  the  Jordan  empty  into  Salt  Lake,  besides  many  large 
creeks  and  numerous  smaller  ones. 

"  Salt  Lake  is  about  120  miles  long,  north  and  south,  and  40  miles 
wide,  and  contains  several  islands  of  considerable  size,  some  of  which  are 
partially  covered  with  timber.  A  steamer  is  now  being  built  for  the 
purpose  of  shipping  the  timber  from  these  islands  for  the  use  of  Salt 
Lake  City.  The  lake  is  subject  to  sudden  storms,  and  boat  naviga- 
tion is  sometimes  dangerous.  Until  the  present  time,  no  serious  effort 
has  been  made  to  test  its  capabilities  for  navigation,  but  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  trade  on  this  lake  will,  at  some  future  period,  be  of 
considerable  magnitude.  The  water  is  extremely  salt.  An  analysis 
shows  that  it  contains  over  22  per  cent,  of  solid  matter.  It  is  pro- 
bable the  lake  once  had  an  outlet  to  the  ocean ;  and  from  the  fresh- 
water tertiary  fossils  found  at  Bear  River,  and  at  other  points,  it  is 
almost  certain  that  it  then  contained  fresh  water.  Then,  also,  it 
doubtless  contained  many  varieties  of  fish,  but  as  the  water  grew  salt, 
they  gradually  perished ;  and,  so  far  as  has  been  observed,  it  has  no 
animal  life  in  it  at  present.  The  cause  of  the  extreme  aridity  of  this 
country  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  is  surrounded  by  high  mountains.  The 
Sierra  Nevada  on  the  west,  the  Wasatch  range  on  the  south  and  east, 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  north,  completely  encircle  it.  The 
wind  coming  from  any  quarter  has  its  moisture  absorbed  in  passing 
over  the  mountains.  The  absence  of  vegetation,  the  effect  of  this  ex- 
treme aridity,  also  aggravates  the  droughts.  The  cultivation  of  these 
valleys,  by  covering  them  with  crops  and  trees,  may  cause  some 
change  in  the  amount  of  rain-fall,  and  it  is  not  unlikely  that  in  the 
course  of  years  the  water  in  Salt  Lake  will  be  permanently  higher 
than  it  is  now.  As  the  small  rain-fall  at  present  is  due  to  the  environ- 
ment of  mountains,  the  inference  is,  that  in  former  times  they  did  not 
exist,  and  that  this  lake  is  older  than  the  mountains;  tins  conclusion 
appears  to  be  warranted  by  our  present  knowledge  of  the  facts. 

"Utah  Lake,  the  source  of  the  Jordan,  is  almost  in  the  shape  of  a 
right-angled  triangle,  about  30  miles  long,  and  20  wide.  The  water 
is  fresh.  There  are  several  other  lakes,  as  Little  Salt,  Sevier  Lake, 
and  Goshoat." 

The  Territory  is  generally  an  elevated,  mountainous,  and  barren 
region.  The  waters  of  the  Great  Basin  have  no  apparent  outlet,  and 
either  discharge  themselves  into  the  lakes  already  mentioned,  or  sink 
into  the  sands  of  the  desert. 


UTAH.  1103 

Agricultural  pursuits  are  extensively  carried  on  by  means  of  the 
best  system  of  irrigation  on  the  Continent.  "  Farmers  in  the  Eastern 
States  might  learn  much  here  that  would  be  valuable  to  them.  From 
a  report  of  the  Deseret  Agricultural  Society  of  January  llth,  1866,  it 
appears  that '  there  have  been  constructed  277  main  canals,  in  length 
amounting  to  1043  miles,  102  rods,  at  a  mean  width  of  5  feet,  6 
inches,  and  a  mean  depth  of  2  feet,  2  inches,  which  water  153,949 
acres  of  land,  at  a  cost  of  $1,766,939,  and  there  is  in  course  of  con- 
struction canals  at  an  estimated  cost  of  $900,000.' "  The  efforts  of 
the  Mormon  farmers  have  been  well  repaid,  and  their  fruits,  vege- 
tables, etc.,  will  compare  favorably  with  those  of  any  portion  of  the 
country. 

Iron  is  found  in  large  quantities  in  Iron  and  Beaver  counties. 
Gold,  silver,  copper,  zinc,  and  lead  also  exist,  but  it  is  believed  that 
the  deposits  are  small.  Coal,  both  anthracite  and  bituminous,  is 
found  in  limited  quantities.  Salt  is  yielded  from  the  waters  of  Salt 
Lake  in  unlimited  quantities.  It  is  becoming  an  article  of  export. 
Soda  exists  in  vast  beds  in  many  parts  of  the  Territory. 

The  animals  native  to  the  Territory  are  the  elk,  deer,  antelope, 
grizzly  bear,  mountain  sheep,  fox,  and  wolf.  The  lakes  abound  in 
water  fowl,  and  the  mountain  streams  in  excellent  trout  and  salmon. 

The  people  of  the  Territory  have  gradually  built  up  a  system  of 
manufactures  which  does  much  to  supply  their  immediate  wants. 
They  make  their  own  cloth,  grind  their  own  flour,  and  provide  many 
articles  of  domestic  use.  Besides  its  local  commerce,  Utah  carries  on 
an  active  trade  with  the  settlements  in  Colorado,  Nevada,  Idaho,  and 
Montana,  off  the  line  of  the  Pacific  Railway. 

The  Pacific  Railway  crosses  the  northern  portion  of  the  Territory 
from  east  to  west.  Ogden,  a  few  miles  north  of  Salt  Lake  City,  is 
the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Central  Pacific,  and  the  western  terminus 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railways. 

There  is  a  system  of  public  schools,  and  the  Mormons  have  estab- 
lished a  University  of  Deseret.  The  education  provided  by  the 
Mormon  schools,  however,  is  said  to  be  arranged  with  a  view  to 
keeping  the  children  within  the  fold  of  the  Mormon  faith. 

Utah  was  originally  a  part  of  Upper  California.  In  1848,  it  was 
ceded  to  the  United  States  by  Mexico,  and,  in  1847,  was  settled  by  the 
Mormons,  who  had  been  expelled  from  Nauvoo,  in  Illinois.  They 
settled  on  the  borders  of  Salt  Lake,  and  founded  Great  Salt  Lake 
City.  They  set  up  a  Provisional  form  of  Government,  and  gave  to 


1104 


THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 


THE   TABERNACLE,  SALT  LAKE   CITY. 

the  Territory  the  name  of  the  State  of  Deseret.  In  1850,  this  form 
of  government  was  abandoned,  and  the  Territory  of  Utah  was  or- 
ganized. 

The  Territorial  Government  is  similar  to  that  of  other  Territories; 
but,  besides  this,  the  Mormon  Church  has  a  complete  establishment 
of  its  own,  of  which  Brigham  Young,  the  Prophet,  is  the  head  or 
President.  The  Mormons,  as  a  rule,  pay  little  heed  to  the  Territorial 
Government,  but  look  to  Young  and  the  Twelve  Apostles,  as  the  chief 
dignitaries  of  the  Church  are  called,  in  all  things.  The  laws  of  the 
United  States  are  executed  with  difficulty,  and  a  vast  amount  of 
trouble  has  been  given  the  Federal  Government  by  the  hostility  and 
mutinous  conduct  of  the  Mormons.  Just  before  the  civil  war,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  send  an  army  into  the  Territory  to  compel  obedi- 
ence to  the  laws.*  It  is  believed,  however,  that  the  completion  of  the 
Pacific  Railway  will  render  the  task  of  enforcing  obedience  to  the 
laws  comparatively  easy  for  the  General  Government. 

*  The  reader  is  referred  to  the  numerous  works  on  Utah  and  the  Mor- 
mons, for  an  account  of  the  history,  religious  belief,  and  political  system  of 
the  Mormons.  The  limits  of  this  work  forbid  such  a  narrative  here. 


UTAH.  1105 

GREAT  SALT  LAKE  CITY,  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  is 
situated  in  Salt  Lake  County,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river  Jordan, 
which  connects  Utah  Lake  with  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  about  22  miles 
east  of  the  latter  lake,  and  4200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It 
was  laid  out  in  July,  1847.  In  1870,  it  contained  a  population  of 
about  17,000.  William  Hepworth  Dixon  thus  sketches  the  city: 

"  The  site  of  the  new  city  was  laid  between  the  two  great  lakes, 
Utah  Lake  and  Salt  Lake, — like  the  town  of  Interlachen,  between 
Brienz  and  Tlum, — though  the  distances  are  here  much  greater,  the 
two  inland  seas  of  Utah  being  real  seas  when  compared  against  the 
two  charming  lakelets  in  the  Bernese  Alps.  A  river,  now  called  the 
Jordan,  flows  from  Utah  into  Salt  Lake ;  but  it  skirts  the  town  only, 
and,  lying  low  down  in  the  valley,  is  useless,  as  yet,  for  irrigation. 
Young  has  a  plan  for  constructing  a  canal  from  Utah  Lake  to  the 
city,  by  way  of  the  lower  benches  of  the  Wasatch  chain  ;  a  plan  which 
will  cost  much  money,  and  fertilize  enormous  sweeps  of  barren  soil. 
If  Salt  Lake  City  is  left  to  extend  itself  in  peace,  the  canal  will  soon 
be  dug ;  and  the  bench,  now  covered  with  stones,  with  sand,  and  a 
little  wild  sage,  will  be  changed  into  vineyards  and  gardens.  The 
city,  which  covers,  we  are  told,  three  thousand  acres  of  land,  between 
the  mountains  and  the  river,  is  laid  out  in  blocks  of  ten  acres  each. 
Each  block  is  divided  into  lots  of  one  acre  and  a  quarter ;  this  quan- 
tity of  land  being  considered  enough  for  an  ordinary  cottage  and 
garden. 

"As  yet,  the  temple  is  unbuilt ;  the  foundations  are  well  laid,  of 
massive  granite;  and  the  work  is  of  a  kind  that  bids  fair  to  last;  but 
the  Temple  block  is  covered  with  temporary  buildings  and  erections — 
the  old  tabernacle,  the  great  bowery,  the  new  tabernacle,  the  temple 
foundations.  A  high  wall  encloses  these  edifices ;  a  poor  wall,  with- 
out art,  without  strength  ;  more  like  a  mud  wall  than  the  great  work 
which  surrounds  the  temple  platform  on  Moriah.  When  the  works 
are  finished,  the  enclosure  will  be  trimmed  and  planted,  so  as  to  offer 
shady  walks  and  a  garden  of  flowers. 

"  The  Temple  block  gives  form  to  the  whole  city.  From  each  side 
of  it  starts  a  street,  a  hundred  feet  in  width,  going  out  on  the  level 
plain,  and  in  straight  lines  into  space.  Streets  of  the  same  width,  and 
parallel  to  these,  run  north  and  south,  east  and  west ;  each  planted 
with  locust  and  ailantus  trees,  cooled  by  two  running  streams  of  water 
from  the  hill-side.  These  streets  go  up  north,  towards  the  bench,  and 
nothing  but  the  lack  of  people  prevents  them  from  travelling  onward, 
70 


1106  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

south  and  west,  to  the  lakes,  which  they  already  reach  on  paper,  and 
in  the  imagination  of  the  more  fervid  saints.  Main  street  runs  along  the 
temple  front ;  a  street  of  offices,  of  residences,  and  of  trade.  Originally, 
it  was  meant  for  a  street  of  the  highest  rank,  and  bore  the  name  of 
East  Temple  street;  upon  it  stood,  besides  the  temple  itself,  the 
Council  house,  the  Tithing  office,  the  dwellings  of  Young,  Kimball, 
Wells,  the  three  chief  officers  of  the  Mormon  Church.  It  was  once 
amply  watered  and  nobly  planted;  but  commerce  has  invaded  the 
precincts  of  the  modern  temple,  as  it  invaded  those  of  the  old  ;  and  the 
power  of  Brigham  Young  has  broken  and  retreated  before  that  of  the 
money-dealers  and  the  venders  of  meat  and  raiment.  Banks,  stores, 
offices,  hotels, — all  the  conveniences  of  modern  life, — are  springing  up 
in  Main  street ;  trees  have,  in  many  parts,  been  cut  down  for  the  sake 
of  loading  and  unloading  goods;  the  trim  little  gardens,  full  of  peach 
trees  and  apple  trees,  bowering  the  adobe  cottages  in  their  midst,  ha.ve 
given  way  to  shop-fronts  and  to  hucksters'  stalls.  In  the  business 
portion,  Main  street  is  wide,  dusty,  unpaved,  unbuilt;  a  street  showing 
the  three  stages  through  which  every  American  city  has  to  pass:  the 
log  shanty,  the  adobe  cot  (in  places  where  clay  and  fuel  can  be  easily 
obtained,  this  stage  is  one  of  brick),  and  the  stone  house.  Many  of 
the  best  houses  are  still  of  wood ;  more  are  of  adobe,  the  sun-dried 
bricks  once  used  in  Babylonia  and  Egypt,  and  still  used  everywhere 
in  Mexico  and  California ;  a  few  are  of  red  stone,  and  even  granite. 
The  temple  is  being  built  of  granite  from  a  neighboring  hill.  The 
Council  house  is  of  red  stone,  as  are  many  of  the  great  magazines, 
such  as  Godbe's,  Jennings',  Gilbert's,  Clawson's ;  magazines  in  which 
you  find  everything  for  sale,  as  in  a  Turkish  bazaar,  from  candles  and 
champagne,  down  to  gold  dust,  cotton  prints,  tea,  pen-knives,  canned 
meats,  and  mouse-traps.  The  smaller  shops,  the  ice  cream  houses, 
the  saddlers,  the  barbers,  the  restaurants,  the  hotels,  and  all  the  better 
class  of  dwellings,  are  of  sun-dried  bricks ;  a  good  material  in  this  dry 
and  sunny  climate;  bright  to  the  eye,  cosy  in  winter,  cool  in  summer; 
though  such  houses  are  apt  to  crumble  away  in  a  shower  of  rain.  A 
few  shanties,  remnants  of  the  first  emigation,  still  remain  in  sight. 
Lower  down,  towards  the  south,  where  the  street  runs  off  into  infinite 
space,  the  locust  and  ailantns  trees  reappear. 

"In  its  busy,  central  portion,  nothing >hints  the  difference  between 
Main  street  in  Salt  Lake  City,  and  the  chief  thoroughfare,  say,  of 
Kansas,  Leavenworth,  and  Denver,  except  the  absence  of  grog-shops, 
lager  beer  saloons,  and  bars.  The  hotels  have  no  bars,  the  streets 


L 


[_  j  ,.         .!.'_[ 


UTAH.  1107 

have  no  betting-houses,  no  gaming-tables,  no  brothels,  no  drinking- 
places.  In  my  hotel — '  The  Salt  Lake ' — kept  by  Colonel  Little,  one 
of  the  Mormon  elders,  I  cannot  buy  a  glass  of  beer,  a  flask  of  wine. 
No  house  is  now  open  for  the  sale  of  drink  (though  the  Gentiles  swear 
they  will  have  one  open  in  a  few  weeks),  and  the  table  of  the  hotel  is 
served  at  morning,  noon,  and  night,  with  tea.  In  this  absence  of 
public  solicitation  to  sip  either  claret-cobbler,  whiskey-bourbon,  Tom 
and  Jerry;  mint-julep,  eye-opener,  fix-up,  or  any  other  Yankee  decep- 
tion in  the  shape  of  liquor — the  city  is  certainly  very  much  unlike 
Leavenworth  and  the  River  towns,  where  every  third  house  in  a 
street  appears  to  be  a  drinking  den.  Going  past  the  business  quarter, 
we  return  to  the  first  ideas  of  Young  in  planting  his  new  home ;  the 
familiar  lines  of  acacias  grow  by  the  becks ;  the  cottages  stand  back 
from  the  road-side  twenty  or  thirty  feet;  the  peach  trees,  apple 
trees,  and  vines,  tricked  out  with  roses  and  sun-flowers,  smother  up 
the  roofs. 

"  Right  and  left  from  Main  street,  crossing  it,  parallel  to  it,  lie  ra 
multitude  of  streets,  each  like  its  fellow ;  a  hard,  dusty  road,  with 
tiny  becks,  and  rows  of  locust,  cotton-wood,  and  philarea,  and  the 
building-land  laid  down  in  blocks.  In  each  block  stands  a  cottage, 
in  the  midst  of  fruit  trees.  Some  of  these  houses  are  of  goodly  ap- 
pearance as  to  size  and  style,  and  would  let  for  high  rentals  in  the 
Isle  of  Wight.  Others  are  mere  cots  of  four  or  five  rooms,  in  which 
the  polygamous  families,  should  they  ever  quarrel,  would  find  it  dif- 
ficult to  form  a  ring  and  fight.  In  some  of  these  orchards  you  see 
two,  three  houses ;  pretty  Swiss  cottages,  like  many  in  St.  John's 
Wood,  as  to  gable,  roof,  and  paint :  these  are  the  dwellings  of  different 
wives.  '  Whose  houses  are  these  ? '  we  ask  a  Fad  in  East  Temple 
street,  pointing  to  some  pretty-looking  villas.  '  They  belong/  said  he, 
<  to  brother  KimbalFs  family.'  Here,  on  the  bench,  in  the  highest 
part  of  the  city,  is  Elder  Hiram  Clawson's  garden  ;  a  lovely  garden, 
red  with  delicious  peaches,  plums,  and  apples,  on  which,  through  the 
kindness  of  his  youngest  wife,  we  have  been  hospitably  fed  during 
our  sojourn  with  the  Saints;  a  large  house  stands  in  front,  in  which 
live  his  first  and  second  wives,  with  their  nurseries  of  twenty  children. 
But  what  is  yon  dainty  white  bower  in  the  corner,  with  its  little  gate 
and  its  smother  of  roses  and  creepers  ?  That  is  the  house  of  the  youngest 
wife,  Alice,  a  daughter  of  Brigham  Young.  She  has  a  nest  of  her 
own,  apart  from  the  other  women, — a  nest  in  which  she  lives  with 
her  four  little  boys,  and  where  she  is  supposed  to  have  as  much  of 
her  own  way  with  her  lord  as  the  daughter  of  a  Sultan  enjoys  in  the 


1108  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

harem  of  a  Pasha.  Elder  Naisbit,  one  of  the  Mormon  poets,  an  Eng- 
lish convert  to  the  faith,  as  it  is  in  Joseph,  lives  with  his  two  wives 
and  their  brood  of  young  children,  on  the  high  ground  opposite  to 
Elder  Clawson,  in  a  very  pretty  mansion,  something  like  a  cottage 
on  the  Under  Cliff.  Much  of  the  city  is  only  green  glade  and  orchard 
waiting  for  the  people  who  are  yet  to  come  and  fill  it  with  the  pride 
of  life. 

"  In  First  South  street  stand  the  theatre  and  the  City  Hall,  both 
fine  structures,  and  for  Western  America  remarkable  in  style.  The 
City  Hall  is  used  as  head-quarters  of  police,  and  as  a  court  of  justice. 
The  Mormon  police  are  swift  and  silent,  with  their  eyes  in  every 
corner,  their  grip  on  every  rogue.  No  fact,  however  slight,  appears 
to  escape  their  notice.  A  Gentile  friend  of  mine,  going  through  the 
dark  streets  at  night  towards  the  theatre,  spoke  to  a  Mormon  lady 
of  his  acquaintance  whom  he  overtook  ;  next  day  a  gentleman  called 
at  his  hotel,  and  warned  him  not  to  speak  with  a  Mormon  woman  in 
the  dark  streets  unless  her  father  should  be  with  her.  In  the  winter 
months  there  are  usually  700  or  800  miners  in  Salt  Lake  City,  young 
Norse  gods  of  the  Denver  stamp ;  every  man  with  a  bowie-knife  in 
his  belt,  a  revolver  in  his  hand,  clamoring  for  beer  and  whiskey,  for 
gaming-tables  and  lewd  women,  comforts  which  are  strictly  denied  to 
them  by  these  Saints.  The  police  have  all  these  violent  spirits  to 
repress ;  that  they  hold  them  in  decent  order  with  so  little  blood- 
shed is  the  wonder  of  every  Western  Governor  and  Judge.  William 
Gilpin,  Governor  elect  of  Colorado,  and  Robert  Wilson,  sheriff  of 
Denver  and  justice  of  the  peace,  have  nothing  but  praise  to  give  these 
stern  and  secret,  but  most  able  and  effective,  ministers  of  police. 

"With  this  court  of  justice  we  have  scarcely  made  acquaintance. 
A  few  nights  ago  we  met  the  judge,  who  kindly  asked  us  to  come 
and  see  his  court ;  but  while  we  were  chatting  in  his  ante-room,  be- 
fore the  cases  were  called,  some  one  whispered  in  his  ear  that  we 
were  members  of  the  English  bar,  on  which  he  slipped  out  of  sight, 
and  adjourned  his  court.  This  judge,  when  he  is  not  sitting  on  the 
bench,  is  engaged  in  vending  drugs  across  a  counter  in  Main  street ; 
and  as  we  know  where  to  find  him  in  his  store,  we  sometimes  drop 
in  for  soda-water  and  a  cigar ;  but  we  have  not  yet  been  able  to  fix  a 
time  for  seeing  his  method  of  administering  justice  at  Salt  Lake. 

"  The  city  has  two  sulphur  springs,  over  which  Brigham  Young 
has  built  wooden  shanties.     One  bath  is  free.    The  water  is  refreshing 
and  relaxing,  the  heat  92  degrees. 
,  "  No  beggar  is  seen  in  the  streets ;  scarcely  ever  a  tipsy  man  ;  and 


UTAH.  1109 

the  drunken  fellow,  when  you  see  one,  is  always  either  a  miner  or  a 
soldier — of  course  a  Gentile.  No  one  seems  poor.  The  people  are 
quiet  and  civil,  far  more  so  than  is  usual  in  these  western  parts.  From 
the  presence  of  trees,  of  water,  and  of  cattle,  the  streets  have  a  pas- 
toral character,  seen  in  no  other  city  of  the  mountains  and  the  plains. 
Here,  standing  under  the  green  locust  trees,  is  an  ox  come  home  for 
the  night;  yonder  is  a  cow  at  the  gate,  being  milked  by  a  child. 
Light  mountain  wagons  stand  about,  and  the  sun-burnt  emigrants, 
who  have  just  come  in  from  the  prairies,  thankful  for  shade  and 
water,  sit  under  the  acacias,  and  dabble  their  feet  in  the  running 
creeks. 

"  More  than  all  other  streets,  perhaps,  Main  street,  as  the  business 
quarter,  oifers  picture  after  picture  to  an  artist's  eye ;  most  of  all  when 
an  emigrant  train  is  coming  in  from  the  plains.  Such  a  scene  is  be- 
fore me  now;  for  the  train  which  we  passed  in  the  gorge  above 
Bear  River,  has  just  arrived,  with  sixty  wagons,  400  bullocks,  600 
men,  women,  and  children,  all  English  and  Welsh.  The  wagons  fill 
the*  street ;  some  of  the  cattle  are  lying  down  in  the  hot  sun ;  the 
men  are  eager  and  excited,  having  finished  their  long  journey  across 
the  sea,  across  the  States,  across  the  prairies,  across  the  mountains ;  the 
women  and  little  folks  are  scorched  and  wan ;  dirt,  fatigue,  priva- 
tion, give  them  a  wild,  unearthly  look ;  and  you  would  hardly  recog- 
nize in  this  picturesque  and  ragged  group  the  sober  Monmouth 
farmer,  the  clean  Woolwich  artisan,  the  smart  London  smith.  Mule 
teams  are  being  unloaded  at  the  stores.  Miners  from  Montana  and 
Idaho,  in  huge  boots  and  belts,  are  loafing  about.  A  gang  of  Snake 
Indians,  with  their  long  hair,  their  scant  drapery,  and  their  proud 
reserve,  are  cheapening  the  dirtiest  and  cheapest  lots.  Yon  fellow 
in  the  broad  sombrero,  dashing  up  the  dust  with  his  wiry  little  horse, 
is  a  New  Mexican  ;  here  comes  a  heavy  Californian  swell ;  and  there, 
in  the  blue  uniform,  go  two  officers  from  the  camp. 

"The  air  is  wonderfully  pure  and  bright.  Rain  seldom  falls  in 
the  valley,  though  storms  occur  in  the  mountains  almost  daily ;  a 
cloud  coming  up  in  the  western  hills,  rolling  along  the  crests,  and 
threatening  the  city  with  a  deluge ;  but,  when  breaking  into  wind 
and  showers,  it  seems  to  run  along  the  hill-tops  into  the  Wasatch 
chain,  and  sail  away  eastward  into  the  snowy  range/' 

Three  newspapers  are  published  in  the  city,  one  of  which  is  the 
organ  of  the  Mormon  Church. 

Besides  the  capital,  the  principal  towns  of  Utah  are,  Provo,  Og- 
den,  Brownsville,  Franklin,  Springville,  Nephi,  Stockton,  and  Payson, 


WASHINGTON. 

Area, 69,994  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1870, 23,925 

WASHINGTON  TEKKITORY  embraces  the  extreme  northwestern  por- 
tion of  the  Great  Eepublic.  It  lies  between  45°  33'  and  49°  N.  lati- 
tude, and  between  117°  and  124°  43'  W.  longitude.  Its  extreme 
length,  from  east  to  west,  is  about  360  miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth, 
from  north  to  south,  about  235  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
British  Columbia  and  the  Strait  of  San  Juan  de  Fuca  (by  the  latter 
of  which  it  is  separated  from  Vancouver's  Island),  on  the  east  by 
Idaho,  on  the  south  by  Oregon,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  western  half  and  parts  of  the  southeastern  portion  of  the  Ter- 
ritory are  mountainous.  These  mountains  being  continuations  of  the 
ranges  which  have  been  described  in  Oregon.  The  Cascade  Range 
extends  entirely  across  the  Territory,  from  north  to  south,  dividing  it 
into  two  unequal  portions;  the  larger  and  less  rugged  being  the 
eastern  portion.  In  this  range  occur,  within  the  limits  of  the  Terri- 
tory, the  lofty  peaks  of  Mount  Rainier,  12,300 'feet  high,  Mount  St. 
Helen  and  Mount  Adams,  each  about  9500  feet  high,  and  Mount 
Baker,  10,700  feet  high.  These  are  all  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 
West  of  the  Cascade  Range  are  the  Coast  Mountains,  running  parallel 
with  and  but  a  short  distance  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  They  extend 
from  the  Strait  of  San  Juan  de  Fuca  across  the  Territory  into  Oregon. 
Mount  Olympus,  8150  feet  high,  is  the  principal  peak. 

The  Strait  of  San  Juan  de  Fuca  forms  a  part  of  the  northern 
boundary,  and  separates  Washington  from  Vancouver's  Island.  It 
also  affords  water  communication  between  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Ad- 
miralty Inlet  and  Puget  Sound,  a  large  bay  extending  southward  into 
1110 


WASHINGTON.  1111 

the  Territory  for  70  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Georgia.  These  are  navi- 
gable for  ships  of  the  largest  size.  Gray's  Harbor,  on  the  Pacific,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Chehalis  River,  is  about  20  miles  long,  and  has  about 
20  feet  of  water  on  the  bar  at  low  tide. 

Cape  Flattery,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  San  Juan  cle  Fuca,  and 
Cape  Disappointment,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  are  the 
principal  capes.  There  are  no  important  islands  on  the  coast.  The 
Isle  of  Grief,  40  miles  south  of  Cape  Flattery,  is  the  largest.  Whid- 
by's  Island,  in  Admiralty  Inlet,  is  noted  for  its  deer.  It  is  well  tim- 
bered, but  water  is  scarce.  The  Arroo  Islands,  north  of  it,  possess 
valuable  fisheries.  Lake  Chelan,  in  the  north-central  part  of  the  Ter- 
ritory, is  the  largest  lake.  It  is  33  miles  long. 

The  principal  rivers  are  the  Columbia,  and  its  two  branches,  the 
Clark's  and  Lewis's  Forks,  the  Spokane,  the  Okanagan,  the  Yakima, 
the  Chehalis,  the  Skogit,  and  the  Cowlitz.  The  Columbia  enters  the 
northeastern  part  of  the  Territory  from  British  Columbia,  and  at  first 
flows  southwest.  Just  below  the  48th  parallel  of  latitude,  it  turns 
westward  and  pursues  a  generally  westward  course  to  the  120th 
meridian  of  longitude,  where  it  abruptly  turns  to  the  southeast,  and 
flows  in  this  general  direction  to  the  46th  degree  of  latitude,  when  it 
turns  once  more  to  the  westward,  and  flows  in  that  general  direction 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  From  the  last  turn  mentioned  it  divides  Wash- 
ington from  Oregon.  It  is  navigated  by  a  daily  line  of  steamers. 
The  Lewis's  Fork  forms  a  part  of  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  Terri- 
tory, separating  it  from  Idaho.  At  Lewiston  it  turns  to  the  south- 
west, and  flows  to  the  Columbia.  The  Chehalis  flows  into  Gray's 
Harbor;  the  Skogit  into  Puget  Sound;  and  the  others  into  the 
Columbia.  These  rivers  all  rise  on  the  summit  of  the  snowy  moun- 
tains, and  are  subject  to  sudden  freshets.  Their  rapids  afford  first- 
class  water-power. 

The  climate  of  Washington  resembles  that  of  Oregon.  In  the 
western  portion  of  the  Territory  it  is  mild,  there  being  scarcely  any 
winter  at  all  in  this  region.  "  Properly  speaking,  there  are  but  two 
seasons,  the  dry  and  the  rainy.  The  grades  of  temperature,  and  the 
accompaniments  which  in  other  countries  of  the  same  latitude  ascribe 
the  features  and  title  to  the  four  seasons,  spring,  summer,  autumn,  and 
winter,  are  here  in  great  measure  obliterated,  or  at  least  so  dimly 
marked  that  the  seasons  imperceptibly  run  into  each  other,  and  lose 
their  distinctive  line  of  division.  It  is  not  unusual  for  the  three  winter 
months  to  be  mild,  without  snow  or  ice,  the  grass  growing  meanwhile. 


1112  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

In  February,  the  weather  may  occur  mild  and  genial  as  May,  to  be 
succeeded  in  March  or  April  with  our  coldest  weather.  In  July  and 
August,  days  in  some  portions  of  which  the  maximum  temperature 
will  reach  90°  or  100°,  are  sometimes  followed  by  cold  nights,  occa- 
sionally accompanied  by  heavy  frost.  The  rainy  season  proper  begins 
late  in  October  or  early  in  November,  and  may  be  said  to  continue 
till  the  ensuing  April.  It  frequently  happens  that  after  the  first 
rains  weeks  of  weather  similar  to  Indian  summer  occur,  and  it  is 
seldom  that  one  or  other  of  the  months  of  January,  February,  or 
March  does  not  prove  continuously  mild  and  clear.  The  summers  of 
this  Territory  are  unsurpassed  in  the  world.  While  many  days  are 
exceedingly  warm,  the  nights  are  always  cool  and  refreshing,  as  if 
specially  intended  for  wholesome  sleeping.  In  the  winter  months, 
six  in  number,  rains  prevail.  No  disappointment  should  be  felt  if 
falling  weather  occurred  some  part  of  each  24  hours,  and  yet  many 
bright  sunshiny  days  relieve  the  long-continued  rainy  season  of  Wash- 
ington Territory." 

"The  soil  of  all  the  prairie  lands,  with  the  exception  of  those 
directly  around  Puget  Sound,  is  exceedingly  fertile.  Those  of  the 
Sound  are  of  a  sandy,  gravelly  nature,  not  readily  cultivated,  but  pro- 
ducing enormous  fir  and  cedar  trees.  The  soil  on  the  mountains  is 
generally  very  rich ;  but  the  dense  growth  of  forest  deters  the  emi- 
grant from  attempting  clearings  on  a  large  extent,  as  the  fine,  fertile 
plains  and  prairie  offer  far  greater  inducements.  Fruits  of  various 
kinds,  particularly  apples,  can  be  cultivated  very  readily,  and  in  the 
greatest  perfection.  Indian  corn  does  not  thrive  well,  as  the  seasons 
are  not  hot  enough ;  but  wheat,  barley,  oats,  and  potatoes  yield  the 
most  abundant  crops,  of  the  finest  quality.  The  potatoes,  in  particular, 
are  surpassingly  fine.  The  wheat  grown  on  the  Columbia,  called 
Oregon  wheat,  is  known  for  its  superior  excellence. 

"  Although  the  Territory  is  a  very  mountainous  country,  yet  there 
are  many  immense  plains  and  prairies ;  and,  by  reference  to  the  map, 
it  will  be  seen  that  innumerable  streams,  like  veins,  permeate  the 
whole  region,  and  each  of  them,  from  the  largest  to  the  smallest,  flows 
in  its  course  through  rich  and  fertile  plains,  of  various  sizes,  lying 
between  the  mountains.  Governor  Stevens,  in  January,  1854,  writing 
of  the  Territory,  says  of  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound,  and  the  adjacent 
ones  of  Hood's  Canal,  Admiralty  Inlet,  and  Fuca  Straits,  'that  their 
maritime  advantages  are  very  great,  in  affording  a  series  of  harbors 


WASHINGTON.  1113 

almost  unequalled  in  the  world  for  capacity,  safety,  and  facility  of 
access,  and  they  are  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  to  what  are  now 
the  best  whaling  grounds  of  the  Pacific.  That  portion  of  Washington 
Territory,  lying  between  the  Cascade  Mountains  and  the  ocean, 
although  equalling,  in  richness  of  soil  and  ease  of  transportation,  the 
best  lands  of  Oregon,  is  heavily  timbered,  and  time  and  labor  are 
required  for  clearing  its  forests  and  opening  the  earth  to  the  produc- 
tion of  its  fruits.  The  great  body  of  the  country,  on  the  other  hand, 
stretching  eastward  from  that  range  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  while  it 
contains  many  fertile  valleys  and  much  land  suitable  to  the  farmer,  is 
yet  more  especially  a  grazing  country — one  which,  as  its  population 
increases,  promises,  in  its  cattle,  its  horses,  and,  above  all,  its  wool,  to 
open  a  vast  field  to  American  enterprise.  But,  in  the  meantime,  the 
staple  of  the  land  must  continue  to  be  the  one  which  Nature  herself 
has  planted,  in  the  inexhaustible  forests  of  fir,  of  spruce,  and  of  cedar. 
Either  in  furnishing  manufactured  timber,  or  spars  of  the  first  descrip- 
tion for  vessels,  Washington  Territory  is  unsurpassed  by  any  portion 
of  the  Pacific  coast/  ' 

The  timber  of  the  Territory  is  like  that  found  in  California  and 
Oregon.  The  giant  fir  grows  here,  often  attaining  a  height  of  300 
feet,  and  a  thickness  of  from  8  to  12  feet.  The  other  trees  are  the 
spruce,  maple,  hemlock,  cedar,  oak,  ash,  alder,  and  willow.  These 
are  all  of  the  finest  and  most  useful  species. 

The  forests  of  the  Territory  are  plentifully  stocked  with  game. 
The  animals,  native  to  this  region,  are  the  elk,  deer,  bear,  fox,  otter, 
beaver,  muskrat,  and  rabbit.  The  native  birds  are  the  swan,  wild 
goose,  brant,  gull,  duck,  eagle,  grouse,  pheasant,  partridge,  woodcock, 
hawk,  raven,  and  robin.  The  waters  of  the  Territory  swarm  with 
fish,  among  which  are  the  cod,  mackerel,  halibut,  herring,  flounder, 
oyster,  crab,  lobster,  and  clam.  The  Columbia  and  its  tributaries  are 
famous  for  their  fine  salmon  fisheries,  which  are  among  the  most 
extensive  in  the  world. 

The  commerce  of  the  Territory  consists  principally  in  the  export 
of  lumber,  particularly  of  masts  and  ship  timber.  The  masts  and 
spars  produced  in  this  Territory  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  world. 
The  amount  of  timber  exported  from  Puget  Sound  is  estimated  at 
nearly  $2,000,000  annually.  Numerous  saw  mills  are  engaged  in 
preparing  lumber  for  domestic  use  and  for  exportation.  The  assessed 
value  of  property  in  the  Territory,  in  1869,  was  $7,843,239. 

The  mineral  resources  of  the  Territory  have  hardly  been  satisfac- 


1114 


THE    GREAT   REPUBLIC. 


STREET  IN   OLYMPIA. 


torily  ascertained  yet.  Gold  has  been  found  on  the  Columbia  River, 
and  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  Territory.  Coal  is  found  in  appa- 
rently inexhaustible  quantities  west  of  the  Cascade  Range,  along  the 
Columbia  and  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  Pacific,  and  near  the 
Strait  of  San  Juan  de  Fuca.  It  is  believed  that  there  is  coal  enough 
in  Washington  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  Pacific  coast  for  generations 
to  come. 

The  public  school  system  is  the  best  of  any  of  the  Territories.  The 
schools  have  been  in  operation  a  number  of  years,  and  are  doing  a 
work  for  the  children  of  the  Territory.  There  are  between  50 
and  60  public  schools  in  the  Territory,  besides  several  private  schools. 
All  are  well  attended.  The  University  of  Washington  is  located  at 
Seattle,  in  King  county.  It  was  established  in  1862.  The  general 
Government  has  endowed  it  with  46,080  acres  of  unoccupied  land, 
which  it  is  believed,  will  create  a  fund  of  at  least  $75,000.  There 
are  about  10  public  libraries  in  the  Territory,  and  9  newspapers  are 
published  there. 

The  Territory  of  Washington  was  organized  in  March,  1853,  up  to 
which  time  it  formed  a  part  of  Oregon. 


WASHINGTON.  1115 

OLYMPIA,  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  is  situated  in  Thurston 
county,  on  the  east  side  of  Tenalquet's  River,  at  its  entrance  into 
Puget  Sound.  It  lies  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation  on  Puget 
Sound,  150  miles  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  contains  the  State 
House,  Territorial  library,  several  churches  and  schools,  and  5  news- 
paper offices.  "  It  is  a  quaint  village,"  says  Albert  D.  Richardson, 
"among  logs  and  stumps,  and  traversed  by  plank  side  walks  erected 
upon  stilts  to  avoid  mud  and  deluge.  The  arterial  street  begins  on 
the  level  shore  of  the  smooth  shining  sound,  climbs  a  low  muddy  hill, 
and  plunges  out  of  sight  in  the  deep  pine  woods.  The  Capitol  is  a 
lonely,  white  frame  building,  like  a  warehouse;  but  we  found  the 
national  flag  floating  from  it,  and  from  nearly  all  the  little  neat  cot- 
tages which  constitute  the  better  dwellings." 

The  population  is  about  1500. 


W  Y  O  MING. 

Area, about  88,000  Square  Miles. 

Population  in  1870, 9.118 

THE  Territory  of  Wyoming  lies  between  41°  and  45°  N.  latitude, 
and  between  104°  and  112°  W.  longitude.  Its  extreme  length,  from 
east  to  west,  is  about  390  miles,  and  its  breadth,  from  north  to  south, 
about  275  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Montana,  on  the 
east  by  Dakota  and  Nebraska,  on  the  south  by  Colorado  and  Utah, 
and  on  the  west  by  Utah,  Idaho,  and  Montana. 

A  large  part  of  the  Territory  is  mountainous.  The  Rocky  Moun- 
tains cross  the  western  part  from  northwest  to  southeast.  The  Rattle- 
snake and  Big  Horn  Mountains  occupy  a  considerable  part  of  the 
northern  and  western  parts,  and  the  Black  Hills  lie  along  the  eastern 
border  and  extend  into  Dakota. 

The  principal  river  is  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte,  which  rises 
on  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  pursues  a  generally 
eastward  course  into  Nebraska.  The  Gallatin  Fork  of  the  Missouri, 
the  Yellowstone  and  its  tributaries,  and  the  Little  Missouri,  take  their 
rise  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Territory,  and  the  northeastern  por- 
tion is  drained  by  the  headwaters  of  the  Shyenne  and  its  branches. 

Much  of  the  land  of  Wyoming  is  suited  to  cultivation.  Other  sec- 
tions, however,  suffer  from  a  scarcity  of  water.  The  whole  Terri- 
tory is  well  supplied  with  timber,  and  in  the  southern  portion  the  sup- 
ply is  inexhaustible.  The  pine,  spruce,  hemlock,  and  cedar,  are  the 
principal  trees.  The  Territory  offers  superior  advantages  for  stock 
raising,  the  prairies  being  covered  with  a  spontaneous  growth  of  an 
excellent  and  nutritious  grass. 

The  climate  is  healthful  and  delightful.  The  winters  are  mild  and 
1116 


WYOMING. 


1117 


PRAIRIE  DOG  CITY. 


open,  and  in  many  parts,  from  November  to  April,  the  cattle  can  be 
kept  without  shelter,  and  find  excellent  food  in  the  standing  grass  of 
the  prairies. 

Gold  has  been  found  in  considerable  quantities  within  25  miles  of 
the  Pacific  Railway.  Immense  beds  of  iron  and  coal  have  been 
discovered  within  a  short  distance  of  the  same  road.  Lead  and  cop- 
per are  also  found  in  some  portions  of  the  Territory,  and  others  con- 
tain valuable  oil  wells,  while  lime  and  gypsum  are  abundant.  It 
is  believed  that  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  Wyoming  will  be  one 
of  the  principal  mining  regions  of  the  country.  The  Pacific  Rail- 
way offers  unusual  facilities  for  prompt  communication  with  the 
Eastern  markets. 

The  country  south  of  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte  is  the  only  part 
settled  as  yet.  The  Pacific  Railway  passes  almost  through  the  centre 
of  this  portion,  and  is  doing  much  towards  improving  and  settling  it. 

The  government  is  similar  to  that  of  the  other  Territories.  In 
"Wyoming  women  possess  the  right  of  suffrage,  and  the  right  to  sit 
on  juries.  A  grand  jury,  consisting  of  men  and  women,  was  em- 
panelled at  Laramie  City  on  the  7th  of  March,  1870.  Women  also 
have  the  right  to  hold  office.  At  the  Territorial  election  of  Septem- 
ber 7j  1870,  the  women  very  generally  voted.  Women  were  nomi- 


1118  THE    GREAT    REPUBLIC. 

nated  by  the  Republican  party  at  Cheyenne  for  the  offices  of  county 
clerk  and  school  superintendent,  but  were  defeated  with  the  rest  of 
the  local  ticket. 

The  Territory  of  Wyoming  was  organized  on  the  25th  of  July, 
1868,  out  of  portions  of  Dakota,  Idaho,  and  Utah,  the  larger  part 
consisting  of  the  western  portion  of  Dakota. 

CHEYENNE,  the  capital,  and  largest  and  most  important  town 
in  the  Territory,  has  now  a  population  of  from  3000  to  5000.  Much 
of  it  is  "  floating,"  and  the  population  of  the  place  varies  more  than 
that  of  most  mining  towns.  It  is  situated  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Railway,  516  miles  from  Omaha,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 
Two  newspapers  are  published  here.  "  The  first  stake  was  driven 
at  Cheyenne  on  the  13th  of  July,  1867,  and  in  one  month  there  was 
a  town  of  8000  inhabitants  on  the  spot.  These  were,  however,  made 
up  in  a  large  measure  of  adventurers  and  disreputable  characters.  No 
sooner  was  a  new  station  of  the  Pacific  Railway  established  at  Lara- 
mie  than  a  large  part  of  this  population  departed  from  Cheyenne,  but 
the  more  'respectable  portion  remained,  and  a  permanent  city  has  been 
founded." 


THE  END. 


THE  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,  SANTA  CRUZ 


This  book  is  due  on  the  last  DATE  stamped  below. 


DEC  ^88 

DEC09.1988REC'D 


50m-l,'69(J5643s8)2373 — 3A,1 


3  2106  00057  0546 


